anya’s garden natural perfumery institute – basic course

Anya’s Garden Natural Perfumery Institute – Basic Course 1

Dear Students: I found this article when I was researching on the Internet. I could find no copyright, and despite numerous emails to the host website, I received no reply. The original article is in French, and that is also available to you for download. I ran the French version through Google translation services, which was very laborious and perhaps imperfect. I then copied all of the images and inserted them in this English version. I did alter one image, the blueprint towards the end of the article to make it more readable. I hope you enjoy this article as much as I do. I find it to be one of the most eye-opening and educational pieces I’ve ever read on the subject of the early perfume industry in Grasse, and the insights into the technical end of the extraction processes are wonderful. Sincerely, Anya McCoy


TECHNIQUES FOR A BOLD PERFUME HISTORICAL OVERVIEW by Gabriel Benalloul In the nineteenth century, industrialization transformed perfumery. Fat itself as an important center of production of raw materials, supplying companies in Paris specializing in the manufacture and marketing of various perfumery (powders, scented water, soap, fragrant ointments ...). "In 1810, trade of perfumery in France represents a little under 2 million francs. In 1900, he spent 80 million ".1 In 1845 the Grasse factories producing for a total of 1.6 million francs.2" In 1898 the turnover generated by 36 mills Grasse [key] is 5000000 Franc-Or ".3 ● The importance of the nineteenth century and improved techniques From a standpoint architectural4 the nineteenth century stands out as a predominant period. Of the 52 major industrial sites Grasse (all time), 36 plants were in operation in the nineteenth century, plus 6 other sites built in the early years of the twentieth century, these buildings often seem to be the result of older projects. Thus, large establishments for the perfume industry in Grasse are built in the 1860s and remain, like factories and Boyveau Mero, Chiris, Lautier Roure Bertrand Fils or the major landmarks of the twentieth century Grasse perfumery . In contrast, only 7 new schools are operated between 1910 and late 1970 (including 4 annexes small units). These sites are almost not enlarged over time and their lifetime is shorter than the sites dating from the nineteenth century. Despite some architectural evolutions, we do not notice, either, real changes of organization or arrangement. However, the extension of old plants continued during these years, obsolescence is not stating that from the 1980s. This decade saw indeed a revival of industrial buildings on the last farmland in the commune. These few remarks about the built industry may reflect more general stabilization in the early decades of the nineteenth century, the industrial landscape of Grasse, which also includes the commercial landscape and entrepreneurial. In his thesis, Eugénie Briot stresses the importance of the nineteenth century in the history of French perfume that is "above all that the spectacular development of a market and that of a boom of an industry" 5. It also identifies two trends that mark the period. On the one hand, the author notes that although the modes of production and marketing of perfume are fundamentally changing in the nineteenth century, these innovations are hardly perceptible to consumers: "From a technical standpoint, the products may have changed, but for him who uses them, the share of innovation remains as invisible or imperceptible, as they are surprising ".6


On the other hand, it cite7 French chemist Justin Smith who in 1900 noticed the absence of persistent links between industry and natural flavors (especially the French industrial) and researchers (chemists). These two factors reinforce the idea that the industrialization of the production methods 7 1 Eugénie Briot, The chemistry of fashion, perfumery Paris in the nineteenth century, the birth of an industry, PhD thesis, CNAM, 2008, p. 12 2 Herve de Fontmichel, "History of Perfume Grasse" in History of Grasse Area, Paul Gonnet (edited by), Roanne / Le Coteau, Horvath, History of cities in France, 1984 3 Same: p. 134 4 An inventory of industrial heritage of the Grasse perfume was prepared by G. Benalloul for the International Perfume Museum in Grasse, under the direction of Service Inventory-General, Region PACA The entire study will be available (late 2010) online at the website of the Ministry of Culture. 5 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, p.99 6 Idem 7 Idem, p. 159 perfumery relies until the late nineteenth century on the development of traditional techniques for processing materials of natural origin, and above all lead to increased production capacity. Improved methods of extracting natural oils is one way in which the perfume became industrialized in the nineteenth century. Follow the various steps of these improvements may help to better understand how the industrial city are specialized in producing raw materials for perfumers. As in cooking practices, the natural materials used in perfumery can be treated in a variety of ways: expression, maceration hot enfleurage cold distillation in vinegar, water or water vapor, infusion in alcohol or spirits of wine in various solvents heated or not. An author of the drafting group of the Review of Marks, referring to this great diversity, wrote in 1924: "The modern industry of Fragrance in fact at its disposal various means to extract excessive perfume from flower" distillation "to" enfleurage "and it would take an encyclopedia to explain all the details" .8 In addition, each method provides, for the same subject matter, olfactory very different results. These results also change depending on the variety of raw materials or - when it comes to plants - processing time, the portion of the plant which is treated (bark, root, leaf, stem, flower etc.). and the way that we have to prepare it (grinding, shelling, in the state). This multitude of possible combinations should probably appear at the dawn of the industrial era, as a vast field of investigation. In the absence of effective links with the scientific community is in a rigorous experiment, implemented in industrial production


workshops of the nineteenth century, which is managed collectively and progressively streamline the procedures, to improve yields and increase productivity. In the corner of a production room, the head of the studio in the Grasse perfume Sozio, sitting at his desk writing on a notebook "performance of all fabrications" (based on the testimony of Henry Sozio) . This aspect of the industrial activity of Grasse, rarely shown, likely reflects the survival in 1981 of old practices established in the nineteenth century (photograph A. Sabatier, March 1981). All these methods of extracting perfume has been described, technique by technique, by many authors, parfumerie9 professionals, scientists or chimistes10 humaines11. These include presentations almost always a historical perspective showing the main developments in each of the modes of extraction. An idea often underlies these presentations seem to be specified here. This is to propose a more systematic prioritization of the use of these techniques from the early nineteenth century and an assessment of their importance in the industrialization process of perfumery. In the state of our knowledge, this approach can not however take shape only through assumptions and perspectives for research and not as established facts. The plants are the main natural materials used in perfumery. For the profession, the term Commodity characterized on the one hand the plant used and secondly the product obtained by treating the plant. In its highest form, this product is named Essence. A perfume is a mixture of several species (or less refined fragrant extracts) between them. Fat has long supplied the Parisian perfume materials 8 P. (Anonymous author), "The Perfume Industry," in Supplement to The Journal of brands of perfumes and soaps, February 1924, No. 1 and 2. 9 For example: Eugene Charabot, the odorous principles of Plant Industry of Natural Perfume, Encycl. Scientific, bibl. Biological Industries, O. Doin & Son, 1912 10 For example: Yves-Rene Naves, Technology and chemistry of natural scents: species specific, resinoid, oils and ointments to flowers, Paris, Masson, 1974 11 For example: Paul Stallard, City aromatic, Nice, Serre Ed, 1987 necessary to their natural fragrances. In the nineteenth century, the main products of the city are: scented oils and ointments enfleurage, and their absolute (concentrated essence of fragrant ointment or oil), flavored waters and essential oils obtained by distillation.


In the corner of a production room, the head of the studio in the Grasse perfume Sozio, sitting at his desk writing on a notebook "performance of all fabrications" (based on the testimony of Henry Sozio) . This aspect of the industrial activity of Grasse, rarely shown, likely reflects the survival in 1981 of old practices established in the 19th century (photograph A. Sabatier, March 1981). There are also species or synthetic chemicals. These products developed in the 20th century have progressively reduced the share of natural products in the composition of a perfume. Grasse Basin, historically specialized in manufacture of natural origin, has adapted to this change while maintaining a commodities trading (or species) natural. A perfume concentrate (also called juice) finds applications in various formats: - In fine fragrance: it is diluted in alcohol - In cosmetics: it is used in soaps, deodorants, shampoos, makeup ... - In detergent: it perfumes, laundry liquid, dishwashing, floor cleaner - In air fresheners: it is incorporated in scented candles, potpourri ... All methods of extracting the scent of a plant have the same goal: to separate, isolate the odor molecules from other elements of a plant. It does a variety of plant at a time. Each plant is different, a good knowledge of plant physiology and adjustment techniques are required to obtain the best performance or olfactory result. Historically, the three extraction methods by which the perfume Grasse became industrialized Enfleurage are already listed and Distillation and Extraction. Each


of them forms the first stage of transforming a plant with raw gasoline. All plants may in principle be treated equally by either of these methods. In practice, enfleurage, for example, is suitable for the treatment of fragile flowers (jasmine, violet, tuberose) and fresh while the distillation is suitable for more robust materials (lavender, orange blossom). ● The enfleurage, principles and progress This is where [enfleurage hot] the extraction method as simple, not requiring, at most, complicated tooling. It is with enfleurage cold processes fixed by solvents which give much better results than distillation [...]. 12 The term includes Enfleurage here all the techniques of extracting perfumes by body fat. They are all known since ancient times. The principle lies in the ability of fats to absorb odors and keep them. One of the main qualities of body fat extraction is to allow the treatment of the most fragile flowers, that does not allow the distillation, the other major technique used in the nineteenth century to extract the fragrance of flowers. This specific technique of effleurage is correlated with the standard olfactory assertive throughout the nineteenth century and whose clientele Paris is the main instigator. Indeed, this inflection olfactory defined as part of a revolution in hygiene (A Corbin13, G. Vigarello 14, E. Briot 15) preferred the scents of florals fugitive, proof refinement. The floral fragrance, light, is renewed more often. The necessary financial capacity supposed to mark a renewal of social distinction and belonging to a class easy. This taste for light floral scents therefore provides a commercial outlet Grasse industrial growth. Especially since the territory of Grasse is predisposed by its climate and soil for growing flowers. In addition, the city already has experience and a long tradition of mining and processing of aromatic plants for tanning and glove making scented. The enfleurage hot mix is in a heated tank, plants with oil that is responsible for the smell of plants. Once this is completed, the plant debris are removed. The oil is filtered. Obtained by cooling a scented oil. The same operation can take place using animal fat. In this case, fat loaded perfumes (liquefied under the influence of heat) takes mass on cooling. This produces a fragrant ointment.


Engraving showing the tool most commonly used for hot enfleurage

12 Antoine Rolet, Les Essences et les parfums, Extraction et Fabrication, Paris, Librairie Hachette, 1907, p. 55 13 Alain Corbin, Le Miasme et la Jonquille. L’odorat et l’imaginaire social, XVIIIe-XIXe siècles, Flammarion, coll. « Champs » nº 165, Paris, 1986 (1re éd. 1982) 14 Georges Vigarello, Le propre et le sale, l’hygiène du corps depuis le Moyen Age, Paris, Seuil, 1985 15 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité

Manufacturing room ointments to the old Factory Robertet

The extraction enfleurage cold is to put at room temperature odorous materials on vegetable oil or animal fat. By contact, body fat gradually picks up odors. It remains to remove the debris and recover the oil or grease odor. Once again we get is a scented oil or cream. In enfleurage cold oil is covered with fresh flowers of cotton cloth soaked in oil. The maceration time seems fast enough. The bits of tissue are then stacked upon each other and pressed in a hand press, which is automated during the nineteenth century. The fragrant oil flowing is recovered.


Etching technique with the cold oil enfleurage requiring

a hand press, also used for making olive oil Etching technique with the cold oil enfleurage requiring a hand press, also used for making olive oil The principle of using cold enfleurage fat is approximately the same as above. We put flowers on the fat that is saturated with scent. Then we remove the plant and recovering the fragrant ointment. Perfumers who buy these raw materials (oils and fragrant ointments) can then repackage (mixing them?) And market these extracts of flowers for retail sale. In the nineteenth century, these ointments and oils, when used "as is", are intended primarily for the care chevelure16. But it seems that the rise of enfleurage during the nineteenth century, also rests largely on the generalizability of washing ointments and oils in alcohol. These washes were previously performed only in small quantities and very imperfectly with the spirit of wine (or alcohol at 80 °) 17: " If we want to extract the fragrance oils and fats that contain the support is subjected to the action of a solvent (eg alcohol) to remove the charge carrier species constituting the natural scent of flowers ".18 Washing is to blend the output of the enfleurage alcohol. By training, he picks up scent molecules that permeated the body fat. Once the separation is completed, the fat or oil is removed exhausted. The alcohol is then evaporated and recovered. This gives a concentrated essence of variable texture that is also called absolute ointment or oil.


The absolute essence "pure" is sold as raw material inserted in a perfume composition, and can be used as such. The development of washes is essentially based on the progress made in the production of ethyl alcohol, also called ethanol or azeotropic alcohol, concentrated at 95 ° / 96 gl. Applying the formula of Lavoisier on the transformation of sugar into alcohol contributes to the early nineteenth century the establishment of industrial alcohol distilleries in various French regions one of which, it seems, in the south of France19 ( 1810, in Toulon?). Such a location, fairly close to Grasse, facilitates the supply and reduces the cost of alcohol.

16 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité 17 ARMIP, Missions design, implementation and consulting of multimedia materials for the permanent exhibition of the International Museum of Perfume, Specification, Conservation Museum in Grasse, 20.11.2007, p. 34 18 P. (Anonymous author), ouvr.cité A.R.M.I.P. 19, p. ouvr.cité 34 Supply facility in alcohol appears to have been one of the preconditions for the spread of washing ointments. The development and generalization of Grasse mechanized harvesters complete the transformation of the traditional method in industrial processes. These harvesters - copper vats - have a double advantage: for a tight lid, they can prevent the rapid evaporation of alcohol and provide an automated rotary arm (and raise too many staff) the stage long enough mixing of ointments in alcohol.


One consequence of washing ointments is to focus more olfactory quality final product of the cold absorption. The shape, texture - liquid (oil) or solid (ointment) - Manufacturing, which could be a selling point, fades into the background as the alcohol treatment is gradually changing the way of parfumer20. All improvements in techniques enfleurage therefore tend to support this research olfactory quality. It helps to progressively use more neutral olfactory animal fats than vegetable oils such as olive oil. Many experiments are performed in the selection of greases enfleurage and it seems that it is the mixture of fat from pork and beef (in proportions of 1 / 3, 2 / 3) which is retained in both hot and cold treatments.

Gross failures of pork at the reception

(via Google translation) 20 The replacement from the 1880 oils and ointments fragrant shampoo (perfume composition inserted into a washing medium), for maintenance of hair, is a significant example of this mutation (see Eugénie Briot, op. Cit. p. 298)


View of a former workshop preparation fats

requires a wheel similar to that of a mill

A more detailed description of this procedure is proposed in 1981 by L. Aune and A. Sabatier, "Basic material of one of the oldest techniques of perfumery in Grasse, the body prepared enfleurage consists of a mixture of beef fat and pork. The first is received already cast in commercially prepared cakes for the food industry, however, pork fat is directly supplied as a failure by the slaughterhouses. These faults are cut, crushed manually wooden pestle, and then melted in boiling water, any other method of giving the merger a smell of cooking grease, incompatible with its purpose extractor, by absorption, the scent of flowers. Despite its good quality industrial, beef fat is consolidated, also in boiling water to refine it. While this basic preparation must be made in the cold, February and March, the mixture of these two elements, body called hard and soft-bodied beef for pork, is the month of May as a slight infusion of flowers Orange is made in the rendered fat to finish them "good taste" .21 The preparation of fats enfleurage has probably given rise to a specific commercial activity, as indicated by Antoine Rollet: "Clarification of fats industry is a special annex. '22.


All other steps you will enfleurage are also being improved through the standardization of equipment and procedures. In the years 21 Alain Sabatier and Lucien Aune, Grasse Portrait of a town in Provence, Nice, Serre, 1981, p. 50: testimony of Henry Sozio. 22 Antoine Rollet, ouvr.cité, P. 55 1820, we developed such types of frames or frames for enfleurage froid23. The chassis enfleurage Oil is a rectangular wooden frame that surrounds a fine mesh wire. There the oil-soaked cloth on the fence. These standard chassis with dimensions around 1 meter 70 cm sides stacked on each other to form a column that stores the frame. The chassis enfleurage fat is smaller than the frame oil. It measures approximately 60/50 inch. The metal gate is replaced by a thin sheet of translucent glass. The fat is spread out and stitched the flowers one by one into the fat. The chassis are stacked on each other and stored the time it takes for the flowers release their scent. The flowers used are then removed and replaced with fresh flowers. This is repeated several times to fully saturate the fat of the smell of the variety of flowers processed. Grease smell completely impregnated is then scraped and then sold in the state as an ointment, or washed with alcohol. Again L. Aune and A. Sabatier give a very detailed description of the procedure enfleurage cold grease proof of this standardization method enfleurage: "We use frames, glass plates inserted into wooden frames. On each glass is spread a layer of fat from a few hundred grams: it is the operation of mash. To increase the surface absorbing the fat one quadrille with a comb: the streak. Then there is the battery, by superposition of 37 frames. A row has 10 cells and 3 rows, requiring the presence of 3 workers, constitute a table, the basic unit of the workshop enfleurage, which can vary in number depending on the abundance of the harvest of flowers. The enfleurage itself is to gently spread a bunch of flowers on each frame, and reconstructed cells. The flowers are enclosed in the cavities formed by the spaces between the panes, they remain two days for jasmine, tuberose for 4 days. The défleurage is to take one at a time frame to remove spent flowers, and then return to the flowery frame for the other side. Enfleurage rate is the ratio between the total weight of fat and pasted the total weight of the flowers that have been used at the end of the harvest. For a ton of body prepared implemented, and jasmine for an ointment at 2.5, it will flowery 2500 kgs of flowers, which take 70 days. For better use of manpower, only half of the chassis is enfleurée each day. The dépâtage is the operation of removing the cream perfumed frame when it reaches the expected rate. "24


● The enfleurage: factor industrialization of perfumery These improvements (selection of fat, enfleurage on standard chassis, alcohol washing, threshing invention) are performed gradually during the first half of the 19th century. It is difficult to determine the actual chronology. However, all seems well established procedures in the early 1860s. At that time, it's cold enfleurage fat that tends to prevail clearly over other modes enfleurage25. This technique gives better quality products and is probably the most job opportunities. 23 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 184: "Edward Laugier mentions the recent introduction in 1829 by Theas, Grasse, chassis, replacing the tiam. "However, an inventory of funds from private perfumery J. Court says that the company had already chassis 1818 1200 oil, 2000 chassis grease and 19 stills (private collection, unlisted). 24 Alain Sabatier and Lucien Aune, Grasse Portrait of a town in Provence, Nice, Serre, 1981, p. 51: testimony of Henry Sozio. 25 Paul Stallard, Identity of industrial society. Museology techniques and mediations of identity. Research Report. University of Nice-Sophia Antipolis, Nice, 1994 98: "A method Grasse [enfleurage cold] made a tentative appearance in the early 19th century and that only took off 50 years later, time to develop the washing with alcohol. " The standardization of the procedure enfleurage cold fat and success come with increased need for labor d'oeuvre26 (female). There was a significant increase of staff employed in Grasse in the middle of the nineteenth siècle27; up only this method could (it seems) lead to a significant degree. Everything indicates that at the same time, construction of the first true factories, a tangible sign of enrichment is a consequence of the growth of this latter technique requires, moreover, plenty of room to store chassis to accommodate the manpower to install and combines in series. The demand for floral perfumes and improved user enfleurage cold that requires very fresh plants, encourages the development of flower crops on a larger scale in the territory of the commune. The perfume of the city had always relied on local supplies. You could collect plants in the wild in the surrounding countryside or in cultivation in jardins28. But this mode of supply is not enough and old farmland is cultivated in the plains and the suburbs (for the uprooting of olive trees?). Paul Stallard, the countryside of Grasse changes between 1850 and 1870 with the very rapid expansion of floral farms. The growth of crops such delicate flowers as jasmine, tuberose and violet are all evidence of the growing importance of enfleurage graisse29 cold.


Burning a frame type for enfleurage cold oil

As the crowd FARNARIER Joseph, the output of the enfleurage seems to be the essential part of production Grasse in the nineteenth century: "Among the first products of perfume - now missing - must include pomades and perfumed oils to the using orange blossoms and roses. It is not easy to find facts 26 Yves Rene Naves, op. quoted on p. 79: "The enfleurage requires considerable material and personnel. Assuming that one flowery 2.5 kg with a daily average of 35g treating a ton of flowers during the campaign enfleurage involves the use of 800 chassis and the support workers from May to June ( quoted by P. Rasse, op. cit. p. 99, note 2) 27 This seems to suggest Isabelle Laval in his thesis: The workers of the Grasse perfume from 1860 to 1914, Nice, 1995 Larch 28 From Palm, nature, culture and scenery of the Alpes-Maritimes. Exhibition catalog of the Archives of the Alpes-Maritimes Departmental, texts by Jean-Bernard Lacroix and Jerome Bracq, Nice, 2006, p. 88: Quoted from A. L. Millin (Voyage in the departments of the south of France, vol. 3, Ch. LXXI, p. 23): "The land, backed by terraced walls built at great expense are a huge amphitheater hanging gardens [...]" 29 Paul Stallard, op. cited, p. 99 regarding their knowledge, however I may have some notes on this: scented oils and ointments then constituting the main production factories. "30 It is supplemented by the distillation whose importance increases during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. But the predominance of the distillation enfleurage seems clearly proved during the first part of the nineteenth century. This dominance is based on the ability of enfleurage better capture the essences of the most delicate flowers.


Workshop enfleurage cold grease

Regression enfleurage becomes clear then, from the 1880s to compete with the first synthetic products and new methods of extraction of plants such as distillation or by steam injection in a vacuum, fractionation and oil extraction. The marginalization of enfleurage becomes effective from the year 1920. This decline enfleurage done while the main features of the industry of Grasse, its foundations, its organization exist. The central role played by this technique in structuring the perfume industry is measured less by its economic impact, or even by its roots in the urban landscape as the mechanisms that were induced by the process of perfecting this method: streamlining procedures, specialization (by washing with alcohol) in Grasse industrial production of raw materials, collaboration with the Boilermakers for the invention of industrial equipment adapted (Combine) ... It is ultimately around the enfleurage that seems to indicate a culture of collective enterprise Grasse and on this base that relies on real growth of this local industry during the second half of the nineteenth century. If one accepts the idea that the development of enfleurage during the first half of the nineteenth century was one of the key drivers for the industrialization of the perfume and its growth, then it seems necessary to clarify the context economic space in which these changes take place. For the historian Paul Gonnet31's economy has been weakened Grasse successive shocks of the Revolution and the Empire. These years of political turmoil precipitated the fall (already initiated in the second half of the eighteenth century) Trade of the tannery 30 FARNARIER Joseph, to the knowledge of the city of Grasse, Parfumerie, the author's, 1983 15; a document of 1882, named Caused Damage, resulting from the private fund of perfumery J. Short, is one of the few known documents that emphasizes the considerable weight of commercially enfleurage perfumery in Grasse: "The perfume houses of Grasse, are factories of raw materials for


perfumery [...] The base This industry is: fats; mixture of beef fat and lard treated. "(Private collection, unlisted) 31 Paul Gonnet (Deputy Editor), History of Grasse Area, Roanne / Le Coteau, Horvath, History of cities in France, 1984, Chapter V, p. 85-100 ensured the prosperity and influence in the city since at least the seventeenth century. In this context, the author notes that Grasse refocusing their activities on the elements of a traditional or local economy. But the recovery is slow, as suggested in Noyon statistical study of the Var department in 1846: "His [Oily] industry, once so brilliant, still consists of perfume, dye, spinning silk, soap , the Headgear, factories and sergettes bons. "32 At that time, the revenue generated by its perfume, higher than parisiennes 33 perfume, still not enough to get to the city's past prosperity! Unlike tanning (import of hides), a significant portion of the materials necessary for production of scented essences can still, in this new century come directly from Grasse, including herbs. Activity (enfleurage and distillation) does not require very large premises immediately. The vacant former tanneries, old church buildings sold as national property, or even the cellars of buildings can be converted into factories. The city also has water and a network of canals to supply sufficient distillation workshops and cleaning equipment. The extracts obtained by distillation or cold absorption, primarily directed toward Paris, more easily carry a load of leather: the extracts are traded and sold by the kilo or gram. The other key element of the traditional economy is the manufacture of olive oil. This production is with the perfume, the main area around which the economic downturn seen by P. Gonnet34. This activity appears to be typical of Provence Grasse a revival during the last decade of the eighteenth century and early decades of the nineteenth century. This development takes place, according to data cadastrales35 at the expense of growing wheat and vines, which fell significantly. The importance of olive cultivation in the nineteenth century also checks on the first photographs of the city (circa 1860), taken before including the expansion of flower crops. This iconography confirms above all, the ubiquitous olive groves, the traditional Provencal triptych (cropping of wheat, grapes and olives) is no longer in force long (the size of olives can attest) . This trade of oils seems to have reached significant proportions for a city the size of Grasse. Noyon note (its count by city seems excessive and is not reported here) that the district of Grasse has more oil mills in operation as of Draguignan, Brignoles or even Toulon36.


These mills (water walking) are both in the countryside, alongside rivers, as in most craft or industrial districts, the bottom of the valley (valley of the Nightingale), even in the heart of downtown urban residential property, fed by underground channels. Already on the eve of the Revolution, Grasse was to have a greater number of mills that the neighboring cities. Indeed, at the time of the tanners, the municipality had encouraged the construction of these facilities earmarked for the production of tan (noxious mixture of oak bark green, myrtle, mastic or crushed) to avoid contamination with the productions alimentaires37. It certainly add new facilities with the development of olive cultivation in the nineteenth century. In the context of an economy return to markets 32 N. Noyon, Statistics Department of the Var, Prefecture du Var, 1846, p. 511 33 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité 34 Paul ouvr.cité Gonnet, P. 85-100 35 ADAM, Napoleonic Cadastre of the city of Grasse, Section 1825 and state matrices and undeveloped properties from 1825 to 1913), Plan 1809, observations from some surveys. 36 N. Noyon ouvr.cité, P. 645 Emmanuelle Edelga 37, Tanners Merchants in Grasse in the eighteenth century, Master Thesis, Manchester, 1994 essentially local, such a concentration - with high production capacity that entails - can surprise.

Roure-Bertrand Fils, Grasse (France), Salle des Threshers (washing ointments)

Perfumery and olive oil production have traditionally been portrayed as vaguely parallel or complementary activities. However, several factors tend to link these two areas, at least during the early decades of the nineteenth century. Some extraction techniques use equipment similar to that used for the manufacture of olive oil: use of hand presses (enfleurage cold oil) or wheels (for the preparation of fat). The literature confirms that many perfume factories also consisted of a mill nearby and produced olive oil (Coll. permanent MIP cabinet labels, Gilles Burois). In practice then, Anthony and Eugene Rolet38 Charabot39 attest past olive oil served with cold absorption. The quantities of oil needed for this technique are


unknown. But as noted above, the use of fat for enfleurage spreads mostly during the second half of the century. In this context, enfleurage oil may well emerge as the main technique used in the early nineteenth century, accompanying the first transformations of perfumery.

Water bath for soaking [enfleurage hot]

38 Antoine Rollet, op. cited, p. 55 P. 39 (Anonymous author), ouvr.cité: the author cites Eugene Charabot. The question of the use of olive oil "mouth" (oil of good quality, less smelly, dedicated to food) in perfumery reexamines the concept of industrial landscape of perfumery: they may need additional oil explain the significant presence of olive cultivation in Grasse? This question invites a reinterpretation of the rural landscape of the town consists of old mills and olive groves. From a historical perspective and even heritage, the association of olive oil production and therefore implies a way enfleurage underlying a first proto-industrial environment (consisting of a hand mill perfumery, mills and even Jarrerie, and other groves and flower gardens) could precede an industrial landscape stronger and more widely accepted.


A mill industry, etching (late 19th / early 20th century) with a workshop of the first plant Society perfume Robertet & Co. Avenue Chiris

View of a mill industry located in Grasse perfumery factory unidentified


Left, overview (behind the barrel) of a country still

● Distillation "Generally, distillation is usually the point of view of quality of the perfume, the least recommendable. "40 In 1854, as every year, the perfume house in Grasse J. J. Hugh Son releases catalog price courants41 it sends to its customers perfumers. The booklet is organized schematically in two parts: the first devoted to manufacturing Retail (pages 7 to 20) and the second part devoted to products sold wholesale to the


industry (pages 20 to 26). Are all goods are grouped by families: ointments, soaps, compositions, oils, distilled water. The order in which these groups are presented seems to reflect their importance in the trade of this perfume: the most important products listed first. However, the fabrication from the distillation are placed systematically at the end of the game. In 1881, the same company (now Hugh Elder) adorns one of its entries usine42. The molding of a distillation still was chosen to represent the front know-how of the company. What looked into the background in the business document is put forward ostensibly in the public sphere. View

View of the still on the front of the factory Hugh Elder Although anecdotal, the linking of these two cases reflects the growth of distillation from the 1850s and 1880s. In the longer term, it reveals above all the singular status of distillation, more than any other technique used in perfumery, serves industry professionals to symbolize their business. By focusing and a special link between distillation and perfumery, professional appropriates a bit image traditionally attached to this technique: that of the early alchemists in the privacy of their studios, distilling and blending them various substances. Register 40 Antoine Rollet, ouvr.cité, P. 10 41 Private collection, funds perfume Jean Court, price lists perfumeries J. J. Hugh Son, perfume, soap maker, distiller and a chemist in Grasse (Var), 1854, unlisted 42 The date 1881 is worn on the front. maintains this tradition, among others, an element of mystery to the creation of perfumes in opposition to the industrial world more rationally.


The Alchemist David Teniers (1610-1690), Coll. Hernandez, Brussels, table reproduced

in the journal Parfums de France in the 1920s. At the third level, we see the first distillation stills glass.

The constant representative function tends to overestimate the importance of distillation, which complicates slightly the determination of its role in the industrialization process and its actual share of trade Grasse. The principle of distillation is based on the ability of water vapor to cause the odor molecules. The operation involves heating - mainly - of water to which were added to process materials (roots, resins, flowers ...). The vapor emitted is responsible for odorant molecules, also called essential oils. The apparatus for channeling the steam is still. Designed various circuit elements mounted, it consists of a boiler in which the materials are mixed with distilled water. Heating, water turns into steam that rises carrying with it the essential oils released from the plant under the influence of heat. The steam then passes through a named pipe gooseneck which then leads to another pipe coil immersed in a vat of cold water constantly renewed. This step allows to rapidly cool the water vapor condenses and becomes liquid so. This dirty water drips of gasoline odor in a vase, also known as Florentine fuellers or vase. Essential oils and water are immiscible, the two elements separate


naturally after a rest period. It is sufficient to recover the essential oil. Water, which is still fragrant can be reprocessed or sold in the state. This is known as flavored water. The origins of distillation are old: "The physician Catalan Armand de Villeneuve (1235-1311) that is generally attributed the first distillation of an essential oil, but until the Renaissance, the essential oils seem to be considered as an unwanted byproduct of distillation, and only after that date it in use is made real. "43 These new applications of essential oils are discovered relatively late and spread slowly. Only in the eighteenth century they seem to grow significantly. In the early decades of the nineteenth century, itinerant distillery is certainly the most widespread in the south of France. Distillers installs its distillation equipment on a cart that carries directly into the fields or in the countryside where he distilled. The distillation can also be done at the factory. In this case the still is sealed in a basement over a brazier. The fire remains bare until the second half of the nineteenth century the only known way to heat the still.

Alembic campaign Alembic factory flames with fire/Alembic factory in flames (Google translation)

The few historical usines44 this period suggest that the stills are quite limited in number: they speak more often three or four devices. As confirmed by E. Briot, no significant element of transformation seems to have been brought to the process during the first half of the nineteenth century: "The steam and vacuum are two major enhancements applied to distillation in the nineteenth century. We have also not identified patents specifically related to perfume distillation. "45 Until then, we can imagine that with the progress of the boiler is able to enlarge these devices and thus increase the treatment capacity of fragrances especially as the Boilermakers have participated actively in the development of various modes of extraction perfumery: "They [many technical developments] have been achieved through close collaboration, often friendly, between industrial perfumers


and the Boilermakers in the region of Grasse. Boilermakers who have exported their technologies worldwide. "46 It really improves the system once, by asking the subjects to be distilled on a grid. Was isolated and a little more vegetation brasier47. It is in this 43 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 195 44 For example: ADAM 3Q 3185, Table of farm leases and rents, 1828-1861, lease rental - Part of a house street oratory - F. 194 - June 20, 1836, between Jean Francois Pascal Templar / Donat Joseph Mero. 45 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 195 46 Jean Claude Ellena, Perfume, Paris, PUF, Que sais-je n ° 1888, 2009, p. 29 47 For example: Paul Stallard, City aromatic, Nice, Serre Ed, 1987 20 mind that in 1865, is thought to introduce the steam from a boiler directly into the external alambic48. This eliminates the flames, at least in the distillations carried out in the workshop. With this method, the results are more regular and better yields. It can also handle a wider range of odorants, since direct steam injection abyss unless treated extracts the flames.

Still much work to (Brehier) The generalization of this new technique appears architecturally by building the first factory chimneys "monumental" in brique49 and development or construction of boiler rooms where boilers are installed, usually near the space dedicated to distillation, also called distilloir. The construction of the first true factories of the city coincides with the development of distillation by steam injection. It seems impossible to attribute this major change in the industrial landscape of the city that only technical progress.


Indeed, the surface of the distillation workshops will be low, if we refer to the total area of new sites. Views

Views showing distilloirs (red) factories Lautier Fils built from the 1860s

48 Same 49 A.D.A.M. 8S36 to 39: request for permission to install boilers: the first records date from Grasse application 1864/1865. The installation of coal-fired boilers involves the construction of powerful industrial chimneys.

Views showing distilloirs (red) factories In addition, distilloirs are mostly individual sheds and outbuildings appear as secondary main bodies of the plants. Finally, they rarely subject to significant expansions over time.


Distilloir de l’usine Lautier Fils

Distillation of orange blossoms. Mounting panoramic distilloir square plant Roure-Bertrand

The organization does business is not disrupted by the adoption of direct steam injection. No evidence shows a dramatic increase in manpower needs. From this point of view, the steam distillation of a brand Advanced significant but its implications are still more limited than those related to enfleurage. The place of distillation plant perfume reflects its status in the work of perfumers from Grasse, that is to say, one of which complement material supply market, based primarily on products the enfleurage and later those of the solvent extraction. ● Extraction with volatile solvents and competition from synthetic products "Fat [...] that are used in maceration or enfleurage, are called solvents fixed. But species are dissolved, we have said, by ether, carbon disulfide, methyl chloride, petroleum ether, liquid, which can make clear to the vapor state by the action of heat, hence the name of volatile solvents. "50 The use of two new types of raw


materials for perfumes - the essences manmade and natural oils from solvent extraction - became widespread during the 1890s. These modes of production are added to the distillation and marginalize enfleurage. The synthetic essences, discovered by chemists, enrich the palette of scent perfume. If some of them are original scents, E. Briot note "that more bodies are artificial odorants, which is a natural counterpart as purely synthetic odorous bodies were discovered in the nineteenth century. "51 (this trend is reversed in the 1920s). But it is primarily the lower cost of manufacturing these products that promote their use in perfumery. In 1879, a kilo of heliotropine, synthesis of the essence of heliotrope, costs 3,790 francs. In 1899, it only costs 37.50 francs. Similarly for coumarin synthesis of the smell of almond or tonka bean, which passes from 2550 francs in 1877 to 55 francs in 1900, while vanillin, first molecule synthesizing the smell of vanilla, passes over the same period of 8750 francs to 100 francs per kilo the kilo52. The industrial Grasse, traditionally focused on natural materials is foreign to the development of synthetic materials. Only in the years 1915/1920 and businesses of the city, such as Fils53 Lautier, start a production of this type, which is still secondary in Grasse. However, if the Grasse did not accompany the development of synthetic products, they are interested in the 1890s a new method of treatment of natural raw materials known as solvent extraction or extraction by volatile hydrocarbons . Its development after decades of stagnation, is apparently about 1898 and it accelerated the first workshop was inaugurated extraction by the company in Grasse Chiris54. The products obtained by this method have characteristics fairly similar synthetic raw materials such as lowering business costs. Thus: "It [extraction] enriches the palette of scent perfume new products, 50 Antoine Rollet, ouvr.cité, P. 67 51 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 146 52 Eugénie Briot, "The fragrance in the nineteenth century, between luxury and industry" (p.5), extracted Conference Economy of luxury in France and Italy, Franco-Italian Committee of Economic History (AFHE-EMIS); Lille 4-5 May 2007 53 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 226 ADAM 54, 5M332, dangerous and unsanitary buildings, record filed by the company Chiris perfumery in 1896 to build a new studio dedicated to the extraction solvent. different olfactory properties, while providing technical analytical advantage, and by perfumers, superior quality "55


In its simplest form, the extraction process differs little from traditional techniques. To extract the odorous principles of the processed material, allowed to soak in solvents such as benzene, ether, acetone or toluene: "Once loaded odorous principle, the solvent is routed to a settling tank [or condenser ], so as to remove water that has been extracted from plants with the concrete. It is then immersed in a concentrator [or evaporator] or it is distilled and partially returned to the circuit, while the concrete continues to fund the still. '56. These initial phases (mixing plants in solvents, settling, concentration) are reminiscent of the distillation, both by the implementation, as the equipment used. The concrete obtained after maceration can be restated as a fragrant ointment and "washed" to alcohol. This additional refining step can then obtain an absolute "Floral Concretes thus obtained have a rather thick consistency, are colorful and they must be cleaned of residual wax they contain. For this, they are mixed with alcohol mixers called threshers and washes give alcoholics. These are filtered and then frozen within 10 or 12 ° and again filtered before being concentrated under reduced pressure. Thus obtained absolute essences. "57 The extraction permits the processing of a greater number of plants. She opened up for exotic plants to work harder (nuts, roots, resins) and that industry is interested syntheses (coumarin, vanillin). It installs when low-cost production units directly in producing countries. Locally, it begins processing by extracting the fragile flowers like jasmine, the scent of which was previously captured adequately by enfleurage cold. In this case: "The economic argument prevailed since well before that of quality, which is of course also invoked to secure the support of the perfumer in the choice of these new materials. "58 Indeed, the price of solvents decreases steadily, and the extraction requires much less manpower than enfleurage cold. On the other hand, the highly concentrated essences produced by extraction have a strong odor power "1kg replaces 100kg of concrete essence of the ointment obtained by enfleurage cold 59. All these elements contribute to make the price attractive to these extracts. A particular effort seems to have been supplied by the manufacturers of the 1890s to accelerate the industrialization of mining in which the principle had been clearly established yet since the mid-1850s by chemist Millon: "The operative procedure is very simple: the flower is introduced into a device to move, then poured ether on her way to cover it. After ten to fifteen minutes is allowed to drain, and we introduce a new quantity of ether used for washing and staying no


more than the first. The ether dissolves the scent, and then abandoned as a white residue, or variously colored, sometimes solid, sometimes oleaginous and liquid, but always becoming solid after some time. "60 55 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 198 56 Paul Stallard, City aromatic, Nice, Serre Ed, 1987 22 57 Same 58 Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 202 Idem p. 59 203 60 Citation in Eugénie Briot, ouvr.cité, P. 198 With greater collaboration between science and industry, it might have been possible to more quickly find an application to these discoveries. But this is apparently it only under pressure from new competition from synthetic products that solvent extraction is a necessary response to the commercial industry in Grasse. By allowing species to produce in larger quantities and less expensive than those obtained by cold absorption, extraction has certainly contributed to the slow marginalization of natural products in the perfume composition. Evidenced by the stabilization between 1900 and 1930 production rose in May at Grasse, with an average 1.5 million kg of flowers harvested each année61. The use of natural materials is maintained. Commercial work of Grasse is therefore essentially redefine the role of these products in the fragrance. In 1924, Eugene Charabot consider this question: "The artificial scent is powerful because it is accompanied by any foreign substance. It is original, because in most cases it is the reproduction of any natural scent. But it is brutal and common. It is therefore necessary to prevent it from dominating the flower scent of which must accompany it. "62 Complementarity between synthetic production and extraction by solvents is evident here. But the evolution of the standard olfactory evidenced indirectly that quote (the perfume no longer a unique purpose to imitate the smell of nature) marks a trend in favor of more synthetic products. With advances in chemistry, synthetic products and refined regularly required after the Second World War. They were softened olfactory thanks to the composition of original perfume bases, consisting of several raw materials. At first, they often incorporate an element of natural essences. These bases are a unique olfactory notes used to create perfumes. Treatment by ancestral enfleurage, developed in the nineteenth century, had helped to spread an image very prestigious flower scents such as rose, violet or jasmine. The synthesis products and allow the extraction in the early twentieth century marketing and distribution of these smells, even imperfect, to a very large scale before and overcome them to invent new smells.


● Demonstration of a new boom industry of perfumes: floral crops in Grasse between 1900 and 1930 As stated previously, the share of natural declines in the composition of a perfume as the chemicals are progressing. However Grasse industry can maintain a strong business with a considerable increase in opportunities generated by the synthetic fabrications and membership bases. One manifestation of this in Grasse sector growth and development of solvent extraction is the evolution of the production of jasmine between 1900 and 1930: "This flower in perfumery has become such a necessity and synthetic perfume industry absorbs a quantity of natural products so great that one can not think without a certain anxiety to the unfortunate situation created a poor harvest would trade full of perfume. This possibility seems happily ruled today. To give our readers an idea of progression of the culture of jasmine remind them that we report the remarkable ML Piver, exposure of 1900 showed the figure of 200 000 61 Statements made in scientific and industrial journals Bulletin of the house Roure-Bertrand Fils Grasse for the years 1900 to 1914 and Parfums de France between 1923 and 1930. P. 62 (Anonymous author), ouvr.cité: the author cites Eugene Charabot. pounds like an average crop. We believe that this year's figure of 600,000 pounds is reached. Consumer products jasmine therefore seems to have tripled in six years. "63 In 1930 the crop amounted to 1 500 000kg64. The constant demand for aromatic plants and the political context encourage flower growers in the Alpes-Maritimes to form cooperatives. Farmers can thus expect more influence on the prices of their crops, hitherto largely fixed by the manufacturers. A first cooperative brings together producers of orange blossoms of the town of Golfe-Juan. The creation in 1903 of the union is allowed by society with a benevolent Grasse Roure caution: "Many owners of Golfe-Juan and Vallauris have formed a syndicate for the sale of orange blossoms. We are assured that the owners of other cantons will join the former. We congratulate them without a second thought, because we consider that the interests of producers of flowers are in no way opposed to those of distillers. Such a group seems rather likely to cause meaningful reforms for all, we expect the work. Its salutary effect will be felt as long as it will reconcile its actions with common interests to industry and agriculture of our region. "65 The view of the company Roure hardens considerably after the first harvest, one year after the establishment of the union: "In number 8 of the newsletter, published a year ago, we report the birth of a Cooperative Society producers of orange blossoms, and we wanted to welcome this group and we added "the


salutary effect of this grouping will be felt as long as he will reconcile his actions with the interests common to the industry and the agriculture in our region. " Over the past year the Society was born, grew and its importance is considerable, with its members about two thirds of the quantity of flowers produced. One does not, prima facie, an exact account of the usefulness of this Society, because the only desire she expressed in the beginning was to see the flowers afford 0GB. 60 a kilogram. Now if we take the average price of flowers for 10 years, we see that the price is exactly 0GB. 60. However, as the number of members increased, it was easy to recognize that if the mindset of leaders, at least that of almost all members of the Society was changing and that it became openly hostile to industry. They made sure the competition of producers remained outside of the association and waited at harvest time, the offers of owners involved. As to be expected at that time, these owners émirent claims so unreasonable that they could not sell a portion of their harvest and they had to distill their own the rest. The result was not brilliant for the first year. The owners were not associated settled due to 0GB. 65 per kilogram, the owners receive much less involved. Moreover, it is certain that letting things take their natural course the flowers would have been worth more if one takes into account the poor harvest and yield neroli [name of the essential oil from flowers of orange]. In summary, we still hope that the association of owners of orange blossoms include her best interest to keep pace with consumers, if, indeed, it becomes manufacturer in turn, it will suffer, too The law of supply and demand and then it would see that nothing has changed. It must not lose sight of that elsewhere have been successful and can only succeed agricultural associations which aim to improve 63 Anonymous author, Bull. scientific and industrial home Roure-Bertrand Fils de Grasse, October 1906, Series 2, No. 4, Evreux, p.45 64 Parfums de France, professional journal, 1930 65 Anonymous author, Bull. City, p.47 conditions of production, competition is there, in Africa, Italy, Spain, who is watching and ready to enjoy his first foul, and must finally think that the artificial product widens even more the place it has taken the natural product is more expensive and, because of all this, dear neroli can be an accident and not a habit. "66 The arguments developed by the manufacturer against the cooperative denounces the greed of the producers of orange blossoms and their ignorance of economic realities of market forces. However, the legitimacy of the claim of the producers union demanding better compensation for their crop is not mentioned. At the same time (1905), producers of roses from Grasse and the surrounding


area are not organized into cooperatives. The price of flowers is trading around 40 cents a kilo. It is then generally accepted (especially in Grasse) that the price is low while demand remains stable outside of cyclical phenomena (overproduction following a good harvest). The company opposes a Roure end of inadmissibility to the specific question of the price of the rose ... "This flower [rose] won [in 1905] 0GB. 40cours means. It is worth mentioning the truly remarkable results obtained in the communes of Saint Paul and the glue in the cultivation of roses. By intelligent care given to this culture, selecting plans, using appropriate fertilizers, farmers in these municipalities reach a production of 1 kilogram of rose flowers per foot, while in other municipalities a yield of 2 -300 grams is a maximum. As a result, the price of 40 is considered 0GB paying by some as disastrous by others. "67 ... and 1908, the newsletter announces Roure, a little worried, the imminent establishment of the first co-producer of roses and scented plants Grasse:" We must say a few words of a movement that has been evident for some months tending to cluster flower growers. The purpose of this group is to get to for all the flowers, which the union of the owners of orange blossoms was done: impose a high cost to the manufacturer and build a plant to implement the flowers manufacturers will not pay. A series of lectures was given by the promoters of the company to lead producers to cooperate in this test and we are told that a number of them have decided to run the adventure. We will keep our readers informed of events. "68 66 Same, Oct. 1904, 1st series, No. 10, Evreux, p.45 to 47 67 Idem: October 1905 2er Series, No. 2, Evreux, 43 68 Same, April 1908, 2nd series, No. 7, Evreux, P. 22


Plan of a battery extraction During the years following its founding in 1903 of the cooperative Golfe-Juan Roure denounces the house, with each new harvest, the stubbornness of the union that sells too much orange flowers. The threats to the short term this association, according to the bulletin, are diverse. Customers may turn away from essences of orange blossom and prefer natural products synthesis more efficient. An overly vindictive may also promote production in Italy and Spain. The magazine predicted even at very short notice and despite its repeated warnings, the total cessation of production of orange blossoms in the region. In fact, the cooperative sells his crop of 1907 (that is to say two-thirds of the regional production) in less than 48 hours at a price it had set previously. The award, a significant increase compared to 1903 amounts to 1, 20 francs per kilo on average but still below the 10 cents that charged by producers indépendants69. After the War 14-1870, trade fragrant plants resumed. It is still an important source of income. The attitude of industry evolves in this area especially as competition from Bulgaria, a major producer of roses, is reduced. The farmers of this country to turn away some time and floral crops devoted to tobacco growing, more profitable. Incriminate longer as prices charged by cooperatives, the big bosses of Grasse develop their own fields of flowers. They are distinguished from


local producers, owners of small farms morcelées71 by forming large agricultural areas (eg Area of the 69 Same, October 1907, 2nd series, Evreux Synthesis of 70 items identified in the various issues of the journal Parfums de France between 1923 and 1930. Larch 71 From Palm, nature, culture and scenery of the Alpes-Maritimes. Exhibition catalog of the Archives of the Alpes-Maritimes Departmental, texts by Jean-Bernard Lacroix and Jerome Bracq, Nice, 2006, p. 89: "The plants were mainly grown in association with other crops by smallholders Blaquière company-owned Roure) and intend to apply modern methods of intensive cultivation based on scientific knowledge. A garden of herbs Test is even created in 1927 with financial support from employers grassois72. The land chosen to install the garden adjoining, and probably not by chance that the plant operated by the Cooperative Union of Grasse Floral, built 192,173. What seems to subtly speak here at the territorial level, is the emergence of more assertive power relations between farmers and manufacturers. Synthetic products first and solvent extraction, which complements, fundamentally changing the field of perfumery. The consequences of these innovations are important. Locally, these effects are very different as shown by the example of scented plants. After this historical introduction, it appears that if the improvement of industrial technology in perfumery depends on the progress of scientific knowledge, the conditions for its implementation are more closely related to economic conditions. Phases of development of a method demonstrate its smooth integration into the economic context of the time, its profitability. Declining profitability is accompanied by a decline in research to improve the method. The description in 1981 of the cold enfleurage proposed by L. Aune and A. Sabatier fossilization evidence of this practice developed during the first half of the nineteenth century. Successful enfleurage cold (and to a lesser extent, the steam distillation) had led, in 1860, construction of the main and most impressive factories of Grasse. However, the impact of the extraction does not impact so dramatically on the city's industrial buildings (except the workshop mining company Chiris). Indeed, the dissemination of this technique in Grasse between 1898 and 1910 takes place in existing sites which are simply added a new workshop, commonly called the "hydropower workshop. . Until the 1920s, no plans to build a new plant was planned and integrated local treatment plan architectural74 hydrocarbons. The industrial architecture announcement does in this case a loss of confidence and rule Basin Grasse? a very fragmented and patchy small areas that did not alter the agrarian


structure. In some larger-scale plantings of jasmine and roses, the perfume applied sound farming methods. " 72 Private collection, funds perfume Jean Court, unlisted document entitled Testing Association garden of fragrant plants of the Borough of Grasse, 1927: "There will be struck by the number of perfumers included in the council where they have in fact the majority. The reason is simple: they are alone, take out three quarters of contributions. ADAM 73, 7M344, permission to build the plant of the Cooperative Union of Grasse Floral, early record 1920, plans to plant 1921. 74 A.D.A.M. 5M, dangerous and unsanitary buildings, complemented by the series 2Z 75 to 79 and the series of local records of Grasse, cardboard 5I2 / 1: Plans plants.

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