What is QualityWhat is QualityExceeding Customers Exceeding Customers

satisfactionsatisfaction

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Definition Definition • Webster’s Dictionary – “ that which

belongs to something and makes or helps to make it is; characteristic element; any character or characteristics which may make an object good or bad; the degree of excellence which a thing possesses.”

• Accrding to Webster’s II ---- Quality is essential character: nature, an ingredient, or distinguishing attribute: property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence.

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Different opinion-------------Different opinion-------------• The Best money can buy ( value for

money)• Meeting a specification or conformance to

specification• Craftsmanship• The degree of excellence that an item

possesses• No more than 1% defective lot• Anything Japanese or German

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Quality can also mean meeting Quality can also mean meeting or exceeding customer or exceeding customer

expectations all the time.expectations all the time.John Rabbit – the ability to John Rabbit – the ability to

exceed a customer’s exceed a customer’s expectations while maintaining expectations while maintaining

a cost competitive market a cost competitive market positionposition

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Quality is described as the Quality is described as the total of characteristics that total of characteristics that

help develop the overall help develop the overall object or serviceobject or service

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Quality from different perspectivesQuality from different perspectives

Product BasedUser BasedManufacturing based Value Based Perspective

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Dimensions of QualityDimensions of Quality

• Performance• Features• Reliability• Conformance – meets standards and specification

• Durability• Serviceability• Aesthetics• Perceived quality

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Factors influencing consumers’ perception of qualityFactors influencing consumers’ perception of quality

• Price• Technology• Psychology• Time Orientation • Contractual• Ethical

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Importance Of QualityImportance Of Quality• Greater market share• Higher earnings• Loyal Customers• Higher Growth rate• Premium Price• Highly motivated employees

Read “Managing quality in Apparel Industry “ Mehta & Bhardwaj, Chap 1

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Terms & DefinitionsTerms & DefinitionsASQ – American Society for Quality

Quality ManagementQuality SystemQuality PlanQuality PolicyQuality AssuranceQuality ControlStatistical Quality ControlInspectionTesting

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InspectionInspection

Review of materials, partially finished or finished materials in relation to some standards, specification, or requirements

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Inspection LoopInspection Loop

Detection of Defect

Correction of defects

Inspection

Feed Back

Determination of Causes

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Factors to consider while Factors to consider while inspecting fabricinspecting fabric

• Fabric Fault• Fabric Width• Roll Length

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Fabric Inspection MachineFabric Inspection Machine

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Features in a Inspection Features in a Inspection MachineMachine

• INSPECTION MACHINES: •     Automatic edge alignment system   •  Simple tension adjustment     • Cradle feed and rewind system    • Available counter in yard or meter   •   Top and bottom illumination    • Maximum 83" (210 cm) in width      • Motor reversing switch to handle fabric which is 

rolled side in or side out•  

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Fabric Inspection SystemFabric Inspection System1. 4-Point system (AAMA point grading

system)2. 10-Point system3. Graniteville “78” system4. Dallas system5. Textile Distributors Institute system6. 4-Point system revised

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4- Point system4- Point systemFabric Flaws or defects are assigned point values

based on the followingLength of defect in the fabric, either length or

widthwiseAssigns penalty points to each defect

Upto 3 inches ----------------------- 1Over 3 inches upto 6 inches ------- 2Over 6 inches upto 9 inches ------- 3Over 9 inches---------------- ------- 4Holes and openings upto 1 inch ---- 2Holes and openings over 1 inch ---- 4

100 Sq yard – less than 40 defects - accepted

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4 –Point system 4 –Point system of of ASTM D5430ASTM D5430

Establish whether the fabric roll is acceptable not

Fabric Roll 120 yards long and 48 inches in width has defects in the following dimensions

2 Defects upto 3’’5 defects over 3’’ upto 6’’1 defect over 6’’ upto 9’’1defect over 9’’

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10 10 Point system ( 1955)Point system ( 1955)• This system assigns penalty points to each

defects depending on its length.

• This points per defect length varies for warp and filling yarn

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In 10 – points system a piece is graded a first if the points do In 10 – points system a piece is graded a first if the points do not exceeds the total yardage of the piece. This piece does not exceeds the total yardage of the piece. This piece does not allow for various width being inspectednot allow for various width being inspected

Warp Defects Penalty

10 -36’’ 10 points

5 – 10’’ 5 points

1 – 5” 3 points

Upto 1’’ 1 point

Filling Yarn Penalty

Full width 10 points5’’ to half the width of the goods 5 points1 – 5 inches 3 pointsup to 1’’ 1 point

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Dallas systemDallas system• Published in 1971, approved by Dallas

Apparel Manufacturers Association.

• Determines whether apiece of knitted fabric is to be classified first quality or second

• This system defines “second” as more than one defect per ten linear yards

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Fabric DefectsFabric Defects

Read the given material and discuss in the next class

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Inspection ProcedureInspection ProcedureDetermine the amount to Inspect

Select the roll to inspect

Put the roll in the inspection machine or other viewing device

Inspect the fabric for visual defect

Check Fabric for Skewed, biased and bowed fabric

Predetermine the width tolerance you will allowEg: width 45 -50’’ – tolerance is 1

width 50 -60’’ – tolerance is 1 ½

Record the defects in the report

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Fabric Inspection ReportFabric Inspection Report• Refer to MS word sheet

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Selection of InspectorSelection of Inspector• A good overall working knowledge• Experience in more than one

production operation is suitable• Personal traits such as co-operative

attitude, assertive, courage, poise, organized etc

• Ability to understand and identify fault or defect

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Quality Inspection of Sewing Quality Inspection of Sewing ThreadThread

• Construction – Yarn count, Yarn ply, Twist Balance, Yarn strength, Yarn Elongation

• Sewability – free from slubs, knots etc• Finish – • Color• Package Density• Winding• Yardage

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Quality Inspection for Quality Inspection for ZippersZippers

• Dimensions• Top and Bottom Stop• Zipper tape color• Washability, Drycleaning ability• Puller strength• Slider should ride freely over the teeth• Slider locks• Care should be taken during processing of zippers• Ratcheting • Sewing Defect – too close to the teeth• Hump• Popping – opening at one spot• Bartack

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Quality Inspection During Quality Inspection During SpreadingSpreading

• Marker Placement• Shade Sorting• Splice Marks• Marker quality• Ply allignment• Spreading Direction• Spread Tension• Pattern Count• Mitering• Grain Line• Line Defination• Seam Allowances REFER cHART

• Notch Marks and Drills28

Quality Inspection IN CuttingQuality Inspection IN Cutting• Check for

• Miscut – Failure of the cutter to spilt the lineTolerance - +/_ 1/16 inches

• Matching of Plies – check the top with the bottom ply, compare with hard pattern.

Tolenrance - +/- 1/8 inches• Ragged Cutting• Notches Match the position with hard

pattern. Tolerance +/- 1/8 inches• Pattern Check

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Sewing DefectsSewing DefectsNeedle Damage• Feed Damage Fraying of material• Skipped Stitch Runoff stitch• Broken stitch Improper Thread• Seam grin Mismatch Thread Color• Seam pucker Seam Closure Uneven (1/8 inch)• Pleated Seams Shirring not evenly distributed• Wrong SPI Binding Splice• Staggered Stitch Unbalanced Collar• Unbalanced Stitch Fullness or Tightness in the

collar • Oil Spots Varying Sleeve Length• Open Seam Fullness or Tightness in the Cuff• Conspicuous seam repair Crooked Pocket or Dart• Conspicuous pleat Pocket placement, Dart Length• Wavy Stitch Exposed Drill Holes

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Sewing Defects ContdSewing Defects Contd

• Pocket Flaps not centered• Flaps shorter in width • Crooked belt loop• Tight loops• Missing loops• Exposed Zipper tape when fly is closed• Unbalanced Inseam measurements• Insecure Bottom stop in Zipper• Faulty slider or stop• Impaired Zipper operation• Defective Button• Button Hole not completely cut• Missing button or button hole• Not secured button• Low or HighSPI IN Button hole

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Sewing Defects ContdSewing Defects Contd

• FusingDe lamination or BubblingDiscoloration of fabricStrike through or strike back

• Sleeve SettingSleeve Reversed

• Snap FastenersDefective or damaged snapSnaps not aligned causing noticeable bulgeMissing SnapExtra SnapDistance between two snap

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Sewing Defects ContdSewing Defects Contd

• PressingWrinkled AppearanceBurned or ScorchedDirt MarkIroning mark, sheen

• TrimmingUntrimmed GarmentPlymark Tickets/ Defect stikers

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Printing DefectsPrinting Defects• Improper Print Placement• Over lapping of colors• Improper coverage• Odor• Paint Splatter or Paint Spots• Sticky Feeling• Bleeding• Burns• Logos / Spelling• Pin holes• Bleed Through• Cracking of Ink or paint• Tacky or Sticky printed surface

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Embroidery DefectEmbroidery Defect• Backing not removed• Applique basting• Logo mispalced• Wrong thread color• Applique not caught• Bobbin thread showing• Needle cut• Stitch density• Coverage• Untrimmed thread• Hoop ring impression• Fabric Puckering• Improper placement• Marking• Improper digitized embroidery

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How much to How much to Inspect????????Inspect????????

No: of Inspectors should be decided by• the volume of garments produced• Level Quality projected for the final

audit• one inspector to every 30 operator• All operator to be audited minimum

twice a day36

Sampling Plan – Sampling Plan – statistically calculated number of statistically calculated number of

sample items to inspect and the number of defects allowedsample items to inspect and the number of defects allowed

• Skip Bundle Sampling – n= number of sample to be inspected from the bundle

c = acceptance number or number of defective pieces allowed in n sampless = Skip Intervalm = clearance Interval

n= 12, c = 0, s = 4, m = 2 n = 30, c = 1, s = 4, m = 2

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JC Penney Inline inspection JC Penney Inline inspection sampling Plansampling Plan

Units in Bundle Units to be inspected Defective units allowed

Upto 180 7 0

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Final InspectionFinal Inspection• No Inspection• 100% Inspection• Spot Checking• Arbitrary Sampling – 10% Sampling• Statistical Sampling

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TerminologiesTerminologies• Sample – A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn

from a lot or batch. The number of unit of a product is the sample size

• Lot or Batch – collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected to determine conformance with the acceptability criteria.

• Percent Defective =

NO: of defective units/ no: of Inspected unit *100

• Process average – is the average per cent defective of a product submitted by the supplier for original Inspection

• AQL – Acceptable Quality Level – is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.( 2.5. 4.0, 6.5, 10.0)

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Statistical AuditingStatistical Auditing

• When a sample lot is inspected from a lot of merchandise ( if the unit selected are true representation of the whole) the sample will give one a accurate projection of the true condition of the lot.

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Lot or Batch size Sample size Acceptable Quality level

2.5 4.0 6.5 10.0

Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re

2 TO 8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

9 TO 15 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

16 TO 25 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2

26 TO 50 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3

51 TO 90 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4

91 TO 150 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6

151 TO 280 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8

281 TO 500 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11

501 TO 1200 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15

1201 T0 3200 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22

3201 TO 10000 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22

10001 TO 35000 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22

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  Acceptable Quality Levels for Normal Inspection (% defective)

Lot Size/ Sample Size .01 .015 .025 .04 .065 .10 .15 .25 .40 .65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

  Lot Acceptance (Ac) Number (maximum number of rejects to accept the lot)

LS=2 to 8SS=2

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

LS=9 to 15SS=3

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

LS=16 to 25SS=5

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

LS=26 to 50SS=8

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1

LS=51 to 90SS=13

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1

91 to 150SS=20

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2

151 to 280SS=32

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3

281 to 500SS=50

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 4

501 to 1200SS=80

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7

1201 to 3.2KSS=125

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10

3201 to 10KSS=200

0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14

10001-35KSS=315

0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21

35001-150KSS=500

0 0 0 1 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 -

150001-500KSS=800

0 0 0 1 1 2 3 5 7 10 14 21 21 -

  .01 .015 .025 .04 .065 .10 .15 .25 .40 .65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

Table 2. AQL Sampling Table based on the Mil-STD-105D

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Application AQL across the Application AQL across the colorcolor

Production LotColor Sizes

Total

8 10 12 14 16

Red 85 125 165 85 40 500Blue 42 63 83 42 20 250Black 42 63 83 42 20 250

Total 169 251 331 169 80 1000

Random SamplingColor Sizes

Total

8 10 12 14 16

Red 3 4 5 3 1 16Blue 1 2 3 1 1 8Black 1 2 3 1 1 8

Total 5 8 11 5 3 32

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