arranging fine perfume compositions - the fougere, lavender's

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Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume CompositionThe Fougere & Lavenders

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.

www.perfumerbook.com

New Jersey - USA

2011



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Glen O. Brechbill

To my late father and beloved mother without

them non of this work would have

been possible

II

ARRANTINGFINEPERFUMECOMPOSITIONS- THEFOUGERELAVENDERS

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in

any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case

of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please note the enclosed

book is based on Fragrance Ingredients by House .

Designed by Glen O. Brechbill

Library of Congress

Brechbill, Glen O.

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougere Lavenders / Glen O. Brechbill

P. cm. 626 pgs.

1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the

understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.

4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.

9. Creativity. I. Title.

Certificate Registry # TXu1 - 364 - 187

Copyright 2006 by Glen O. Brechbill

All Rights Reserved

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - THE FOUGRE & LAVENDERS

About the Book

The fougre & lavender's is another favorite fragrance family. Originally this concept was intend

Women. However due to the strength of lavender a major component of this family it ended up as a mas

fragrance concept. One of the earlier fougre fragrances was Fougre Royale by Houbigant. This old frag

house created one in the 18th century. Like many fragrance families a single fragrance gave birth to a

range of fragrance types. Until fifteen years ago there was no regulatory body governing the use of ess

oils in today's fragrances. This changed with the ( IFRA ) organization founded and funded by GivaudanSymrise, Firmenich and Takasago. Like many industries these five control approximately eighty percent

market.

Today sadly one can not incorporate many of the key aromatic materials into a fougre, lavender

because of skin irritation problems experienced by a monority percentage of the population. This Gestap

group ruthlessly hunts and hounds out any dissidents who don't agree with their draconian amendments

can not use coumarin, oakmoss, patchouli, lavender and many natural citrus materials. The goal of the bi

is to of course control the industry by eliminating competition in this case natural ingredients in favor o

thetics based on petroleum. My opinion has been and always will be the peanut analogy. If one experien

problem with a product don't use it. My niece has a peanut allergy, and she will never know the joy and

ure that nuts can bring. Are peanuts banned because of folks food reaction? Of course not.

The fragrance industry for whatever reason and the artistic creative craft are slowly being ruined by fiv

grance houses because of greed. Again, if you are a perfumer employed by this industry speaking out w

you fired and blacklisted for life. This is what happened to me many years ago. An unscrupulous f

employer needed my first book titled A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients to save a lazy family

ber work. I was promoted to a Jr. Perfumer's position in a coy attempt to gain a copy of my earlier then u

ished notes. Not knowing then how this industry worked I soon found my self blacklisted.

Getting even artistically I decided would take careful thought, and a lot of creative work. Crafting

book rested in part of learning desktop publishing, graphic arts including font design. One might call myest in fragrance an obsession. I would tend to agree with this assessment. Once one learns the fragrance

language the only way to let it out is by creative exercise. As an artist I find enjoyment each night by cr

a single fragrance on paper. Again, each fragrance is based on assembling a theme with certain type o

matic materials. Perfumer's specialize creating fragrances for a single fragrance family or brand. They

the art by watching their mentor. This is called an apprenticeship. One is unable to work in this industry

out serving in an offical apprenticeship. There are self-taught artists like myself, but not many.

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Each of my compositional books is a unique presentation into the creative art of an individual frag

family. Why hasn't someone else done this before one asks? When an individual is selected into this u

profession you have to swear an oath to keep the fragrance art and creative thought process a secret. T

part of the reason why there are so few books on the subject of fragrances available particularly the com

tion. Today no perfumer would be permitted to display formulas in any correct proportions. Even thoug

grance houses have hundred's of thousands of formulas in their possession they are paranoid of any one othe hands of a few actually learning the art. In order to understand the art one must know the material

mately, and how they blend together in various fragrance blends in correct percentages.

Considering those under thirty today in age on the average read a single book for pleasure in a year I

in the near future whether any of today's artists will actually create one. It takes a great deal of work to

up with an idea, and then turn it into a book. Learning the high skill of desktop publishing took a lot o

ative effort and energy. My former employer who cheated me out of a lucrative and well paid career k

today that they made a major blunder letting me go many years ago. My compensation for a career that

happen are my books. Each book will have my picture in it. Although it is from long ago, it is my hop

my work will live on, and help future artists in his and her pursuit of knowledge. It is my firm belief saved a lot of information that is slowly disappearing from the world wide web.

The Google search engine is a fine one. Its problem however, is not being able to sort through the m

data and display it in a correct form. In other words it can't differentiate between relevance information an

quality of that information versus irrelevance. It will rank a single article up front, and leave a web site th

over ten thousand pages three to five pages after it. A single news article will be kept in prime location

gating important information to the rear. As many know Google is scooping up every orphan book and

cation out there on the www and in libraries. Due to the copyright limbo nature of this material who ac

owns it is up for grabs, and will be later sorted out by the Court. I set all of my books at 50 % view to

them useless beyond myself including removing the printing function.

Obviously material that I displayed in this book could never be published. The purpose was to show

how each fragrance family came to be. In many cases a single fragrance started a family that can have t

thousands of off spring. Each fragrance is unique in its construction. Again, at the same time many are

lar, and in reality many smell alike because they are often very similar in construction. Lacking essenti

the synthetics lack diffusion. This is the reason why many last only several hours after applied.

Fine fragrances are getting cheaper and cheaper. A household type product of twenty years ago con

more essential oils then due today's synthetic blends. One well-known perfumer employs less then thirt

grance materials in his fine fragrance construction. I classify this type of fragrance of a house hold n

Everyone is seeking to make more money with fewer materials. This in turn produces cheaper fragranceis part of the problem why the fine art is slowly dying.

Do my fragrances that are in this collection work you next want to know? My answer to that of cou

who knows. I do realize formulation books that you see today are for the most part misleading. Any o

my creations can be endlessly changed, and adapted with experimenting. Taking into the account the co

many of the materials I doubt whether any listed in this book could be made. However, that in a nutshell

Glen O. Brechbill

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fine art of fragrance. It is my opinion that the composition itself should be an integral part of advertisin

marketing of a fine fragrance. However, due to the paranoia in the fragrance industry governing a trade

that is the composition, which in turn creates a fragrance I doubt whether this will ever happen. In or

understand a formula one must know at the very least several thousand aromatic materials.

It is my opinion in the not too distant future of thirty to fifty years of time the fine art of fragrance wilcompletely disappeared. High-speed computers plus automatic compounding machines will replace it.

fragrance house has millions of compositions in their libraries. A single successful fragrance can have

thousands of variations. I am sure the next generation of Artificial Intelligence computer's will be the no

the future. The major players in the industry Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have opened fine art creative c

in China, Brazil and India. Sooner or later due to cutting costs no one will know for sure the true source o

given fragrance. A perfumer in China can create a fine fragrance for a Wall Mart or Chanel brand.

This is the main reason why there is nothing new today. An individual scent belongs to a fragrance

ly. To be in that family one has to be related to a fragrance in that family. If a perfumer comes up with

thing different which I believe is not possible, a competitor will duplicate it with a gas-chromatography puter inside a week. In today's fragrance world there is nothing new except the endless hype show casing

thing unique. In reality there is nothing new except cheaper fragrances that contain little or no essentia

plus fewer aromatic materials.

I was blacklisted by the fragrance industry through an unscrupulous former employer many years ago

to the computer and the world wide web I have been able to display my creative talent to its fullest. N

has come knocking on my door seeking my services. If I can do this type of original creative work, an

under employed what does that tell you about this industry? Non of my books will ever be printed. Due

nature of the pdf file I can not sell at this time a single copy without fear of unauthorized distribution to

channels.

This book titled Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - The Fougre & Lavender's took over four m

of work to create. Careful study will display how similar many fragrances actually are, and why perfume

able to come up with new fine fragrances with several days of experimentation. Each fragrance can be

changed anywhere in a formula with careful adjustment of the parts per thousand arrangement, and by the

tion and deletion of other aromas. I could have taken a single fragrance and made hundreds. I chose

because painting the same picture over and over again gets very boring.

Is the art in danger of dying you want to know. Due to the folks at ( IFRA ) and of course greed by t

five I think it is slowly changing, and not for the better. The fine art of the perfumer who are masters at m

ulating aroma materials have to go along with changes in their palette in order to work. Fight the systemone will find themselves out of work as happened to me many years ago.

Enjoy.


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A World of Fragrance s - The FOUG RE Lavender s

Glen O. Brechbill

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International Directory by Country & House

Manuscript # 1 ( A - H )

Manuscript # 2 ( I - Z )

Canada

The Spice Trader

United States

Alfa ChemAmerican Society of Perfumers

Aromatic International LLC

Artiste Flavor / Essence

Astral Extracts

Bedoukian Research, Inc.

Bell Flavors & Fragrances

Berje Inc.

Carrubba Inc.

Central States Chemical Marketing

Champon Vanilla

Citrus & Allied

Cookson & Hunt International Co.

Creative Fragrances Ltd.

DMH Ingredients

Continent/Country/Fragrance House Continent/Country/Fragrance House

Fiveash Data Management

Fleurchem, Inc.

Fleurin, Inc.Flexitral, Inc.

Florachem Corporation

Florida Chemical Company, Inc.

Florida Worldwide Citrus

Frencharoma Imports Co., Inc.

Good Scents Company

Gorlin & Company

Graham Chemical Corporation

I.P. Callison & Sons

Innospec Inc.

International Flavors & Fragrances

J & E Sozio, Inc.

Joint American Ventures in China

MelChem Distribution

Millennium Chemicals

Natural Resourcing

Norwest Ingredients

Oliganic

Pental Manufacturing

Phoenix Aromas & Essential Oils

Polarome International

North America


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Prima Fleur

Rosetta Enterprises LLC

Sarcom Inc.

Science LabSensient Technologies Corporation

Sigma Aldrich

Spectrum Chemicals

Sundial Fragrances & Flavors

Sunrose Aromatics

Texarome

Treatt USA Inc.

Trisenx, Inc.

Uhe Company, Inc.

Ungerer & Company

Vigon International, Inc.

Walsh, John D., Company, Inc.

Mexico

Esencias y Materiales Lozmat

Tecnaal Group

Argentina

Esarco

Euma

Fritzsche SAICA

San Miguel Agici y F

Brazil

Citral Oleos Essenciais Ltda.

J. Piltz & Cia. Ltda.

Petit Marie

Rai Ingredients

Belgium

Synaco Group

Bulgaria

Vesselino Trading Company

Denmark

Wambesco Gmbh

France

A.N.E.C.

Adrian Industries SAS

Albert Vielle SA

Aromatic Collection

Aromax

Axxence SARL

BFA Laboratories

Barosyl S.A.

Biolandes Parfumerie

Charabot & Company Inc.

Clos DAguzon

Diffusions Aromatiques

Dulcos Trading

Exaflor

Glen O. Brechbill

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Central America

South America

Europe


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H.Reynaud & Fils

IPRA Fragrances

Interchim

Laboratoire Monique Remy

Mane SA

Moraflor Produits Aromatiques

Muller & Koster

PCAS

Payan Bertrand SA

Prodarom

Prodasynth

Rhodia Organics

Robertet SA

SIPA A. Ch. Berthier

Sovimpex

Symarome

Germany

Basf

Dullberg Konzentra Gmbh

Eramex Aromatics Gmbh

Frey & Lau Gmbh

Lothar-Streck

Paul Kaders GmbH

Sensient Essential Oils Gmbh

Symrise GmbH & Co. KG

Th. Gyer Gmbh & Co. KG

Hungary

Silvestris & Szilas Ltd.

Italy

Baller s.r.l.

Capua s.r.l.

Citroflor di G.

Espira S.p.A

Farotti Essences srl

Moelhausen S.P.A.

Portugal

Kruetz Helmut

Spain

Bordas Destilaciones Chinchurreta

Cami de Fontainilles

Destilerias Munoz Galvez, s.a.

Lluche Essence

Ventos, Ernesto S.A.

Switzerland

Essencia, Aetherische Oele AG

Firmenich

Givaudan Fragrance Corporation

Puressence Wuresten Inc.


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The Netherlands

Brighten Colorchem, B.V.

Flavodor

PFW Aroma Chemicals

United Kingdom

A & E Connock Ltd.

Augustus OIls. Ld.

British Society of Perfumers

Buckton Home Page Ltd.

De Monchy Aromatics, Inc.

Earth Oil Plantations Ltd.

FD Copeland & Sons Ltd.

Fine Chemical Trading

Furest Day Lawson

Global Essence Ltd.

Handa Fine Chemicals Ltd.

JC Buck Ltd.

Lionel Hitchen Ltd.

Quality Analysis

SRS Aromatics Ltd.

Venus Enterprises

Israel

Agan Aroma & Fine Chemicals

Aromor Flavors & Fragrances Ltd.

Fruitarom Industries

Nardev

China

China Aroma Chemical Co., Ltd.

China Perfumer

Chinessence Ltd.

HC Biochem

Hangzhou Aroma Chemical Co.

Shanghai M & U International

Tianjin Jiete Fine Chemical Co.

Hong Kong

Naradev

OLaughlin Industries

India

Amen Organics

Anthea Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.

Anupam Industries

B.S. Industries

Bansal Aroma

FFC Aroma

Flowersynth

GMPCT

Gyran Flavours

Hermani Ex-Imp Corporation

Hindustan Mint & Agro Products

Indian Spices

Glen O. Brechbill

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Asia

Mediterranean


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Kanta House

Katyani Exorts

Krupa Scientific

Kuber Impex Ltd.

Narain Terpene & Allied Chemical

Organica Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.

P.P. Sheth & Co.

Petitgara Chemicals

Premier Chemical Corporation

Privi Organics Ld.

Raj Aromatics Aroma Corporation

SAT Group

Seema International

Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt.

Shreeji Aroma

Som Santi House

Some Extracts

Tadimetry Aromatics Pvt Ltd.

Thakker Group

Ultra International Limited

U.K. Aromatic & Chemicals

Korea

Castrading

M.X.D. Enterprise System

Nepal

Shambhala Herbal & Aromatics Pvt. Ltd.

Singapore

Taytonn Pte Ltd.

Turkey

Oregano

Australian Botanical Products

Cosmark

Perfume & Flavor Manufacturers

Peter Jarvis Cosmetic Develop.

W & W Australia Pty Ltd.

Indonesia

Djasula Wangi

Haldin

Indesso

Singapore

Taytonn Ptd Ltd.

Sri Lanka

EOAS International

Japan

Basf Japan Ltd.

Kao Corporation

Takasago International Corporation

Zeon Corporation


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Australia

Pacific Rim


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Thailand

Thailand Institute of Science

Viet Nam

Enter Oil

Africa Trade

Egypt

A.Fakhry & Company

Fayyum Gharbya Aromatic

Kato Aromatic S.A.E.

Glen O. Brechbill

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Africa


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Costing Out a Fragrance

100 Lbs. Divided by 2.2046 = 45.36 Divided by 1,000 = .0453

.0453 x Parts = Grams Per Item = 1,000 Parts


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Pine Fragrance -

All Purpose Cleaner

Parts Aromatic Chemical Price Per Pound Raw Material Impact

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302 1.03 .300

167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1.35 .225

39 Alpha Pinene 2.25 .088

18 Eucalyptol 5.76 .104

3 Camphor Powder 2.00 .006

27 Galaxolide 50 8.75 .23652 Alpha Terpineol 1.22 .063

26 Benzyl Salicylate 4.05 .105

24 Benzyl Benzoate 1.60 .038

23 Ionone Beta Pure 17.10 .393

3 Patchwood 1.60 .038

11 Vertenex 2.45 .026

34 Di Ethyl Phthalate .860 .029

19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.00 .057

28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 6.20 .174

1 Piconia 12.80 .012

12 Fir Needle Canadian 10.75 .132

17 Coumarin 7.50 .128

20 Santalex T - Sandela 6.50 .130

152 Di Propylene Glycol .64 .097

33 Terpinyl Acetate 1.80 .033

Glen O. Brechbill

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The Composition - Pine Fragrance

Fragrance Ingredient Fragrance Ingredient

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302

167 Iso Bornyl Acetate

39 Alpha Pinene

18 Eucalyptol

3 Camphor Powder

27 Galaxolide 50

52 Alpha Terpineol

26 Benzyl Salicylate

24 Benzyl Benzoate23 Ionone Beta Pure

3

11 Vertenex

34 Di Ethyl Phthalate

19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia

1 Piconia

12 Fir Needle Canadian

17 Coumarin

20 Santalex T - Sandela

152 Di Propylene Glycol

36 Terpinyl Acetate

1,000

Patchwood - Pfw - Fragrance Contest


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Open any perfume guide with fra-

grance "notes" or any online dis-

cussion or blog post on perfume

description and you're bound to

stumble on coumarin; one of the

most common materials in manyfine fragrances but also several

body products, cosmetics and func-

tional products. Its rich history goes

back to the beginnings of modern

perfumery in the late 19th century,

bringing us right at the moment of

the nascent concept of perfumery as

a mix of organic chemistry and

nature's exploitation. Coumarin as

such is a synthesized material in

most perfumes, but it's also found

in abundance in natural products,

such as tonka beans (Dipteryx

odorata) where it is the principle

aromatic constituent (1-3%). In fact

the name derives from "cumaru",

an Amazonian dialect name for the

Tonka bean tree.

Origin & function of coumarin

Chemically, coumarin is a ben-

zopyrone (1-benzopyran-2-one)

which, apart from tonka beans, also

occurs naturally in vanilla grass

(Anthoxanthum odoratum), sweet

History of coumarin discove

synthesis

Natural perfumers used and c

ue to use tonka bean absolut

tonka in powder form, as wdeer's tongue, a herb with

leaves to render a coumarin

But the story of coumarin is la

one of organic chemistry. The

ponent was isolated by A.Vo

1820, but the laboratory syn

of coumarin first happened in

from coal tar by W.H.Perkin

gave his name to "the Perkin

tion" used to produce it). It

another year to produce it

industrial scale at Haarman

Reimer. The consequent m

rable inclusion of synthe

coumarin in Jicky (Guerlain

and earlier in Fougre R

(Houbigant 1882) was the kic

of a whole new fragrance fa

the fougre, thanks to

Parquet's composition

Houbigant. Fougre Royaletained a staggering 10% cou

of the finished formula! How

can dream a bit while reading

de Maupassant describing thi

grance as "prodigious evocat

woodruff (Galium odoratum),

sweet clover (Meliotus L.), sweet

grass (Hierochloe odorata) and cas-

sia cinnamon (Cinnamomum aro-

maticum) among other species. In

short, it's rather sweet, as you mighthave surmissed by now, and evokes

cut grasses. You'd be correct to

assume both facts, but that's not all:

Although coumarin in perfumery

does add a certain sweet note of

mown hay or freshly cut grass with

vanilla overtones, it's really bitter-

ish in flavour in high concentra-

tions (its -now banned- inclusion in

food would attest that). Therefore

theorizing its plant origin one

would assume it's produced by

plants in order to defend them-

selves from predation. After all it's

also present in cherries, strawber-

ries, and apricots, prime targets for

birds. You might have even seen it

featured in your rodent pesticide:

don't be alarmed (coumarin is

included in miniscule quantities in

foodstuff anyway), but now youknow why!

Glen O. Brechbill

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forests, of lands, not via their flora

but via their greenery"...

The Fougere fragrance family

Fougre fragrances evoke the smellof ferns at least as we imagine them

to be, as by themselves they don't

have a particularly noticeable odour

(Paul Parquet said that if they

could, they'd smell of Fougere

Royale). But the concept of a scent

that is herbaceous, infused with

aromatic lavender ~a popular mate-

rial for both sexes at the end of the

19th century thanks to its proprietyin the "clean" sense of the world~

and which leaves a malleable, soft,

enveloping, yet discreet aura on the

wearer was lacking: The era was

still using the Victorian soliflores.

Funnily enough, even those had

their own categorisation; violets or

roses for the respectable lady, jas-

mine and tuberose for the courte-

san. Fougre scents were on the

cusp between approved and revolu-

tionary, creating a very desirable

pull.

The other principle constituents in

the accord are lavender and oak-

moss: It was only natural; lavender

by itself contains coumarin in its

aromatic makeup. Thus the triad

comprising the main accord of the

rising fougre (i.e.lavender-oak-moss-coumarin, played together

like a musical chord) made

coumarin itself quite popular: many

classic or influential masculine

colognes owe their character to it,

starting of course with Jicky and

can be married to vanillic co

nents (such as vanilla, benzo

some of the other oriental bal

such as Tolu balsam or Peru

sam, as well as ethylvanilli

order to play down and sophistheir foody aspects: see it in a

in orientals such as the disco

ued Venezia by Laura Bia

Lolita au Masculin (Lempick

Casmir by Chopard.

In dilution coumarin projects

soft hazelnut or almond

underneath the hay, even lic

smell Lolita Lempicka (1997in higher concentration it als

spicy fresh and herbaceous f

no doubt reminiscent of its pr

role in different grasses. In c

nation with vanillin and berg

we're veering into chypre terr

Elixir des Merveilles is a no

land with its chypre tonalitie

gourmand facets.

Its versatility and its ability to

smell and make it last longer a

coumarin to enter amber or w

blends (witness Samsara or V

by Guerlain) as well and

heighten the appeal of spicy m

als: in fact it marries very wel

cinnamon or clove. Pi by Giv

is a sweet spicy woody with l

tonka bean, or smell L de L

Lempicka by Maurice RoUsually, indeed coumarin is

tioned in the form of tonka be

the traditional lists of "notes"

mids for fragrances (see this

for more ingredients contribut

which "note") but it can also

continuing with Azzaro pour

Homme (1978), Fahrenheit by Dior

(1988), Dolce & Gabanna pour

homme (1994), and Gucci pour

Homme (2003).

From there coumarin infiltrated its

way into many modern fragrances

belonging in other families. But it

was its pliability and usefulness,

like a trusty Swiss knife, which

made it the perfumers' darling: Are

there more contrasting fragrances

than the icy aldehydic Rive Gauche

(YSL 1970) and the intense floral

Amarige (Givenchy 1991)?Perfumers tell me that coumarin

ends up in some degree in 90% of

all fragrances; and in concentra-

tions exceeding 1% it accounts for

over half of the fragrances in the

market!!

The odour profile of coumarin

Coumarin is a water-insoluble crys-

tallized powder which has an odour

that is pleasant, soft and warm,

evoking cut grass or new mown

hay, but it's more complex than

that; it sometimes even veers into a

smell of fresh paint! This is what

gives Jicky its bracing almost

"petrol" opening which alienates

some people. Originally biosynthe-

sized via hydroxylation, glycolisis

and cinnamic acid cyclization,nowadays coumarin is produced

via more sophisticated techniques.

Coumarin conjures warm notes of

tobacco (useful in masculine for-

mulae) and because it also has

caramel overtones, alternatively it


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underneath grassy notes, clover,

lavender, or tobacco. Modern per-

fumers pair it with synthetic

woody-amber notes such as

Kephalis and Iso-E Super to sur-

prising results. A wonderful materi-al indeed!

Fragrances featuring discernible

amounts of coumarin:

Addict (Dior)

A*men (Thierry Mugler)

Amarige (Gievnchy)

Angel all concentrations, esp.

extrait de parfum(Thierry Mugler)Angel Sunessence (T.Mugler)

Angel La Rose (T.Mugler)

Antidote (Victor & Rolf)

Azzaro pour Homme (Loris

Azzaro)

Azzaro Elixir Bois Precieux

(L.Azzaro)

Blue Jeans (Versace)

Bois des Iles (Chanel)

Brit (Burberry)

Chic for Men (Carolina Herrera)

Coco (Chanel)

Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel)

Contradiction (Calvin Klein)

Etoile de Rem (Reminiscence)

Fahrenheit (Dior)

Fieno (Santa Maria Novela)

Fougere Royal (Houbigant)

Florissa (Floris)

Gloria (Cacharel)

Jasmin Noir (Bulgari)Jicky (Guerlain)

Joop! Homme (Joop)

Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent)

Lavande (Molinard)

L de Lolita Lempicka

Lolita Lempicka (L.Lempicka)

Le Male (Jean Paul Gaultier)

Musc (Molinard)

Navy (Lily Bermuda)

Pi (Givenchy)

Rive Gauche (YSL)

Samsara (Guerlain)Tonka Imperiale (Guerlain)

Venezia (Laura Biagotti)

Versace pour Homme (Versace)

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Houbigant will re-introduce their

iconic 1882 fragrance for men,

Fougre Royale, this month:

First introduced in 1882, Fougre

Royale completely revolutionizedthe world of perfumes and estab-

lished modern perfumery as it

exists today.

Fougre Royale was the first

fougre (or fern-like) perfume

ever created, establishing a com-

pletely new fragrance family which

still remains today the most popular

family in mens fragrances: Brut by

Faberg, Paco Rabanne, Azzarro,

Boss by Hugo Boss and Prada by

Prada for Men belong to this fami-

ly.

The fragrance has been reworked

by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

Fougre Royale opens with an

uplifting cocktail of sparkling cit-

rus oils that blends into an aromaticbouquet of Mediterranean herbs,

where lavender and Moroccan

chamomile oil dictate the tempo.

A redolent heart follows, where the

floral-spicy Rondeletia accord is

revealed through rich geranium

nuances and warm spices. A floral

intermezzo showcases rare rose

essences and absolutes, spiked by

pepper, cinnamon and carnation.

Finally, a grand finale of earthy,

ambery and woody harmonies,

where moss notes join a sensual

patchouli theme enriched by warm

coumarinic undertones of tonka

beans and clary sage absolute.

Houbigant Fougre Royale will be

available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum

($170) or in a limited edition 100

ml Parfum in presentation box

($600). (via press release)


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Houbigants Fougere Royale, or

Royal Fern is an important histori-

cal fragrance, unfortunately very

hard to come by today. It was creat-

ed in 1882 by Houbigants owner

Paul Parquet. Several sources onthe web list it as the first perfume

containing a synthetic chemical to

receive popular acclaim. That

chemical was, I believe, coumarin.

Coumarin is found naturally in

lavender, clover, and tonka beans.

The synthetic production of

coumarin allowed greater control in

creating the distinctive new-mown

hay smell. Royal Fern was the first

and defining example of the

fougere, and lent its name to a

whole family of perfumes. Fougere

is French for "fern." Most fougeres

contain lavender and oakmoss, and

are known for their green herba-

ceous smell. The fougere family is

pleasing to almost all tastes. One

conceptizualization of the fra-

grance families places fougere in

the center, surrounded by the otherfamilies, because of the almost uni-

versally pleasing nature of the

fougere. Literally hundreds of male

and female fragrances are in the

family of this venerable elder,

box. The bottle was still full.

may have been some minor c

cal changes over the decade

the liquid inside still has the

ing notes Ive come to ass

with a fougere. As I write have Houbigants Fougere R

on my left wrist, and Penhali

English Fern on my right

Every once in a while I sniff o

the other to compare the two

mind.

The first thing I notice is th

Penhaligons is stronger. This

be due to being several de

newer, or to being applied w

atomizer. The Fougere Royal

in a splash bottle. After each

of the Penhaligons I have to

several minutes before I can

the fragrance on my left

After a few minutes though

smell is once again quite ev

The old Fougere Royale can

out a doubt stand on its own m

However, in direct compewith the youngster it is

whelmed.

The next thing I notice is th

Fougere Royale has a sma

including ones familiar to us like

Penhaligon's English Fern,

Trumper Wild Fern, Polo Sport by

Ralph Lauren, Cool Water by

Davidoff, Creed's Green Irish

Tweed, and Paco Rabanne pourHomme. Although the Royal Fern

fragrance had a long life, and was

apparently revived in 1959 and

again in 1988, it is not now in pro-

duction. Only its many descendents

remain.

Basenotes lists the fragrance notes

thusly:

Top Notes - Lavender, Bergamot,

Clary Sage,

Middle Notes - Geranium,

Heliotrope, Rose, Orchid,

Carnation,

Base Notes - Oakmoss, Tonka,

Musk, Vanilla,

I was recently able to find a 4 ozbottle of new old stock Fougere

Royale from a drugstore that was

open from the 1940s to the 1970s.

The decades have been kind to this

bottle. It was still in its original

Glen O. Brechbill

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more of a sharp, tobacco note than

the English Fern does. Otherwise

the two are quite similar, and evoke

similar thoughts of a sylvian nature.

The staying power of my sample ofFougere Royale is difficult to rate.

After wearing it for several hours I

can no longer smell much of it.

However, my wife tells me it is still

strong.

Fougere Royale spawned not only a

host of other colognes and per-

fumes that continue on to this day,

but also lent its characteristic fra-grance to many other products. See

for example this add which I

believe dates from the 30s.


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As we look ahead to the exhibit at

The Museum of Art and Design,

curated by Chandler Burr, The Art

of Scent 1889-2011; Ive begun to

want to think a little more about the

baseline fragrances that created the8th Art. Thanks to my colleague

and Senior Editor Ida Meister I

have been able to try Coty Chypre

in its hand-etched vial. Guerlain

Jicky is considered to be the first

Oriental fragrance and I have been

able to try that on my own through

many concentrations and formula-

tions. This goes for any of the other

types of fragrance you can name

but one, Fougere. Fougeres are said

to be the most popular fragrance

style of all time and it nagged at me

that I never had the opportunity to

try Houbigant Fougere Royale.

Besides launching Fougere, in

1882, as a fragrance style this is

also the fragrance said to have

begun modern perfumery as the

first perfume to include a synthetic

ingredient, coumarin. There havebeen so many synthetic aroma-

chemicals synthesized from slight-

ly tweaking coumarin that one

could say Fougere Royale is

responsible for many more fra-

recording. I think re-formul

are a lot like that, substantial

same but with some nuances l

So what was it I would experi

Would it be substantially the but re-mastered and memora

would it smell similar to the

nal, but lacking in character?

The fragrant sound engin

asked to undertake this task

Roja Dove and Rodrigo F

Roux. M. Dove speaks about

given this charge, from the

materials:

Houbigants Fougere Royal

worlds first modern fragranc

men is a legend. To be ask

oversee the re-formulation, to

create a new legend for the 20

was a dream.For this th

mula has been re-worked by a

perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Ro

Givaudan, overseen by mysel

together we believe we have ed a masterpiece, the referen

the Fougere.

In the days leading up to my r

ing my sample of Fougere Ro

grances beyond the plethora of

fougeres out there. Therefore it was

with pleasure that I received the

press release announcing the re-

launch of Houbigant Fougere

Royale.

Coupled with that pleasure was a

bit of trepidation just because,

especially with Jicky, I have been

able to observe the changes

wrought in that fragrance in the last

50 or so years. It is still a great fra-

grance but it is not the same as the

earliest version I have. The one

thing I have noted in Jicky as it has

moved through time is that it has

been cleaned up. The transitions are

sharper, the notes more delineated,

and the fragrance overall more

vivid. I am sure that has something

to with the age of the juice but I

wonder about that. I wonder if it is

similar to digitally re-mastered

music. Wherein a sound engineer

would take an old recording and

using digital technology removethe excess hiss and pop and sharpen

up the edges around the sound.

While the musical piece was most-

ly the same there would be nuances

lost in the modernization of the

Glen O. Brechbill

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spent some time reacquainting

myself with what were the best

fougeres I owned; Penhaligons

English Fern and Trumpers Wild

Fern. Of course, the ongoing joke is

fern doesnt have a smell butFougere means fern-like, I may not

know what a fern smells like but I

do know what a fougere smells

like.

When it comes to Fougere Royale I

can confidently say that it belongs

in the company of both English

Fern and Wild Fern but in the

course of re-mastering FougereRoyale Messrs. Dove and Flores-

Roux have managed something

quite amazing a fragrance that hews

to its history but actually feels mod-

ern.

The opening is where Fougere

Royale feels closest to English Fern

and Wild Fern as it shares the very

herbal opening of those other two.

Fougere Royale takes bergamot,

lavender, and rosemary as the top

notes. Clove-like carnation and cin-

namon bridge the top to the green

rose of Geranium and Rose de Mai

in the heart. The base turns distinct-

ly Oriental and if the top was clos-

est to English Fern and Wild Fern

the base is where Fougere Royale

parts ways. Amber, patchouli, and

tonka give a spicy warmth to theend of Fougere Royale. Based on

what Ive read this is where things

have been given a more modern

spin. I believe this is where the

coumarin was used in the original

and in high concentration which

should have given a strong hay-like

accord to the first edition. In this

latest edition the hay is there but the

amber and patchouli tilt this dis-

tinctively spicy and more oriental.

Fougere Royale has average

longevity and above average sil-

lage.

Houbigant Fougere Royale is a

spectacular example of how to suc-

ceed at re-formulating a classic fra-

grance. Dont worry too much

about slavishly trying to re-create

the original. Instead hire two mas-ter perfumers to honor the heritage

while simultaneously having the

skill to modernize the fragrance.

Bottom line is if you want to re-

master something making sure you

have a master, or two, working on

it. Houbigant Fougere Royale had

two in Messrs. Dove and Flores-

Roux and they have taken the first

modern fragrance made and re-

mastered it into one of the best

releases of 2010.


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In this edition of The

Neighborhoods of Bond No. 9, we

take you to Riverside Drive,

Riverside Park and then we review

Bond No. 9s crisp and woody mas-

culine scent, Riverside Drive.

Riverside Park is just one of many

of Manhattans beautiful waterfront

parks. The Upper West Side of

Manhattan was a rural landscape in

the early 1840s, until the Hudson

River Railroad was constructed in

1846. The first proposal to build a

park in the area came in 1865 as a

way to make the Upper West Side a

more attractive neighborhood to

potential residents. In 1866, land

was acquired to be the future site of

Riverside Park and Riverside

Drive. Both were designed in the

1870s by Frederick Law Olmsted,

the co-designer of Central Park. His

idea was to create a natural version

of an English garden, with a drive

winding up the Hudson River shore

of Manhattan from 72nd Street to155th Street. He envisioned a beau-

tiful park on the river side of the

drive, while the homes on the east

side of the drive looked across the

scenery of the park and on to the

The great mansion of the steel

nate, Charles M. Schwab was

ed at 73rd Street. Schwab w

man who became notorious f

fast lifestyle including op

parties and high stakes gamConstruction started on his h

known as Riverside, in 190

took six years to complete

French-inspired mansion of n

bedrooms covered an entire

York City block. Schwab died

niless and after his death, sadl

Riverside was demolished.

The present day Riverside Par

monument to the genius of

Commissioner Robert Mose

one time, the view off Riv

Drive was filled by the New

Central freight tracks. Now

tracks have been covered, the

has been newly landscaped

Riverside Park is one of the

delightful spots in New

Riverside Church at 122nd Str

a neo-gothic masterpiece wtower modeled on the Ch

Cathedral near Paris. The w

renowned New York Presby

Medical Center can be fou

168th Street. From 72nd

Hudson River. As the park grew,

the beauty of the park encouraged

the wealthy to build mansions

along the drive, beginning in the

late 1800s up through the 1930s.

At one time, the Upper West Side

was considered to be on the wrong

side of the tracks of Central Park,

can you imagine? This was the

golden age of residential architec-

ture in New York and famous archi-

tects of the day were designing

classic buildings and it was in this

period that the architectural flavor

of New York residences was estab-

lished. Riverside Drive became

known for its grand residential

architecture and as a place for the

homes of the rich. As you walk

through the neighborhood today,

youll find mansions and apartment

houses, built on the drive beginning

around 1900, displaying gargoyles

of neo-gothic architecture and rich-

ly decorative Beaux Arts and Art

Deco elements of the time. Many ofthese mansions, apartment houses

and entire blocks of structures

along Riverside Drive are now des-

ignated as architectural and historic

landmarks or districts.

Glen O. Brechbill

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through 116th Street and beyond

you can still see some of the most

magnificent apartment buildings

and mansions in New York.

In this area of Riverside Drive youwill also find Grants Tomb, dedi-

cated to Ulysses S. Grant, 18th

President of the United States. This

great monument stands alone in an

expanse of lawn on a bluff giving a

magnificent view of the Hudson

and is one of the most beautiful

landmarks in New York. The area is

also home to the Joan of Arc

Statue, a Garden for All Seasons,91st Street Garden & Crabapple

Grove, Soldiers & Sailors

Monument, 79th Street Boat Basin,

the Eleanor Roosevelt Monument

and at 116th and Broadway,

Columbia University, one of the

worlds leading educational institu-

tions.

Riverside Drive, the scent by Bond

No. 9 is a classic fragrance for men

created by Perfumer Maurice

Roucel in 2003. He has also created

for Bond, its Broadway Nite and

New Haarlem perfumes. Michael

Edwards classifies this scent as an

Aromatic/Fougre and many mas-

culine fragrances are made in the

aromatic Fougre family. Fougre,

meaning fern-like, is one of the

main families into which modernperfumes are classified. This scent

makes a statement in showing us

that it is a very masculine fragrance

for men, highlighting the woodsy,

earthy scents with fresh spices and

crisp fruit for a clean scent.

Bonds press states that Riverside

Drive is Indie-style maleness, with

a hint of Hudson River clear-water

sloops. A woody-mossy masculine

classic, updated with contemporary

aqua accords and a hint of exoticfruit for cool crispness. Many

seem to agree with this assessment,

as this is a popular fragrance with

men from all walks of life.

Maurice Roucel has created a

classy scent utilizing contemporary

accords. Riverside Drive opens

with a crisp and refreshing green

spritz of Basil. Middle notes ofPineapple and Lily of the Valley

add sparkle while the magnificent

base notes of Patchouli,

Cedarwood, Sandalwood and

Oakmoss make this a warm and

sensual fragrance for men.

Riverside Drive is also one of

Bonds first fragrances. This is not

a clone of other fragrances. If

Maurice Roucel makes it, it stands

on its own. This scent was inspired

by the free thinkers, educators,

environmental activists and screen-

writers of the Riverside area of

New York City. Understated and

classy. The full notes are Violet,

Basil, Pineapple, Rose, and Lily of

the Valley, Patchouli, Cedarwood,

Sandalwood and Oakmoss.

Available at:

Bond N0. 9 Boutiques.


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The Bond No. 9 house has taken a

lot of flak for plagiarizing a lot of

the well known heavy hitters in the

world of fragrance and Chez Bond

is no exception. Chez Bond

receives more attention than almostany other of Bond No. 9s offerings

due to its similarity to the king of

mens cologne, Creeds Green Irish

Tweed. In fact, it is nearly impos-

sible to learn anything about Chez

Bond without it being compared to

Green Irish Tweed. So heres the

deal I love Green Irish Tweed.

For my money, it is the champion

of the fresh green mens fragrances.

Although Chez Bond also inhabits

the genre, the two are unique

scents. So without any further

mention of Green Irish Tweed, here

is an honest review of Chez Bond.

If I had to describe Chez Bond in

one word, it would be green. Chez

Bond opens with a fresh blast of

citrus before quickly settling into a

sweet herbal heart filled with greentea and violet. The heart sticks

around for quite some time before

making a gentle transition to a light

woodsy base defined by sandal-

wood notes.

fresh casual scent. For me, th

was always a crowd pleaser th

a lot of compliments, so no w

about offending office colle

so long as you dont get tr

happy with the sprayer. Speof overdoing, I typically did a

ble spray on the upper bod

one on the wrist.

Occasion: This is a great da

scent. It is versatile for schoo

office, a Saturday afternoon,

whatever you want to use it fo

Season: Chez Bond wor

almost any season. Becau

tends to get pretty cold where

I dont wear it much in the win

also tend to switch to some

lighter in the dead heat of su

since it can get a bit cloying

hot day. Spring is where

Bond truly thrives since it pr

a fresh, cool, green vibe that w

equally well on a cool rainy d

warm sunny spring afternoon

I think Chez Bond is a great t

tion scent for a guy who has

wearing mostly marine/aquati

grances. Other than that,

The scent is fresh, cool, green, and

sweet throughout its life. I got a

solid 6+ hours of longevity from

Chez Bond before it settled down

close to the skin, thanks in large

part to the fact that it is an Eau deParfum as opposed to an Eau de

Toilette. My skin tends to drink up

fragrance, so another person could

likely get 8 hours or better which is

extraordinary for this genre of

cologne. Even after it faded from

my skin, I could pick up its scent on

my clothes.

I am of the opinion that the longevi-ty Chez Bond has comes at the

expense of high quality natural

ingredients, since it has a tendency

to smell a bit synthetic at times. To

be fair, it isnt a cheap synthetic sort

of smell, but in my mind it lacked

the natural notes that a fragrance

costing upwards of $145.00 a bottle

should have.

As far as what age Chez Bond isappropriate for, this is truly an any-

age fragrance. I could see this on a

high school guy (whose parents

dont mind buying) all the way to

an older man looking for a nice

Glen O. Brechbill

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Bond really is the perfect spring

fragrance. I think it is expensive

for what you get, but it is a good

introductory niche fragrance for

someone who has only ever used

designer fragrances.

Rating: 7 out of 10. It is good stuff

but not life-changing. When a

small bottle runs around $145.00 I

want something truly unique, or at

least something that smells of qual-

ity natural ingredients rather than a

very well blended mix of natural

and synthetics. Worth checking

out, but not a must-have.


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Beginning today March 22nd and

ending on May 31; Prize will be

awarded by the end of June 2011

Category:

From the olfactory family called

Fougre

I'm leaving it up to each of you to

do your own research about what a

Natural Fougre Fragrance is all

about.

Some typical descriptors are: ferny,

green, grassy, herbal, freshly mown

grass, sharp, mossy. There are cer-

tain traditional notes such as

Oakmoss or Vanilla (as OM is

sometimes very difficult to get),

Lavender absolute, and Bergamot

fcf that must be included to achieve

this effect and these can be noted in

your confidential Fougre Accord.

Have fun.

Guidelines:

Please be fair to others and ensure

that, when you sign up, you intend

to follow through with this project

as only the first ten (10) Registrants

another container. If your pe

has had a chance to sit for a m

or so, and you have shaken it

odically, the more dense pa

lates will have diluted them

into the alcohol or oil. Leaveagain for a few days then dra

the clear part and put it in an

bottle or, if it is the perfum

that you have drawn off, now

time to add it to your melted w

make a solid perfume or glace

Imagine you are doing all of th

a high-end client and really w

impress him or her. This is

good practice for when this

pens for you. I will make a

ment in your Review about

packaging, which is a good

ing point for you, when the

comes.

For the Fougre, you are allow

use up to 8 ingredients as a Fo

family accord. Then you

branch out, and expand by 11essential oils and/or absolut

create an Amber Fougre, W

Fougre, Floral Fougre,

Fougre and so on. You must

all the components that mak

will be taken then the registering

process will be closed.

Anyone who wishes to Register,

must provice the following person-

al information:

your full name

mailing address

phone number

recent photo

permission to post your entry on

my blog

Please ensure you follow all the

'guidelines'. In the last contest, peo-

ple 'lost points' for not including a

data tag, using an incorrect amount

of ingredients, not sending a photo,

and so on.

1. No matter if your perfume is

based in alcohol, oil, or wax, theend product should be clear and

free from imperfections. The way

to do this is to refrigerate, filter,

and/or use a pipette to suck up all

but the floating/sunken bits into

Glen O. Brechbill

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your Fougre accord. The ingredi-

ents of your Fougre accord will

not be revealed to anyone but me.

On your Data Tag list: Fougre

Accord (eight ingredients), then list

your other perfume components.The most ingredients you may have

in this composition is 19.

2. A Data Tag must be attached ie:

name of the perfume, list of the

ingredients, name the base, your

company information (even if it's

simply your name and contact

information), the size of the end

product ie: 5 ml; precautions, howto use, and the 'best before date'.

3. Please follow these directions

submit the perfume and the follow-

ing to me by May 31 (if you email

me on May 15th, I will let you

know where to send it)

send two 1 ml sample vials of per-

fume for assessment

over and above the 8 possible

ingredients in your Fougre

Accord, you may use only 11 (not

10; not 12; I'm sure you get the pic-

ture) Natural Perfume components

including: absolutes, CO2's, con-

cretes, essential oils, tinctures, and

waxes.

base can be oil, alcohol, or wax

(these do not count as part of the

11)

write five sentences that tell the

story behind your new creation

This, then, becomes our goa

the benchmark we shall strive

all the perfumes we create.

If this wasnt so funny it wou

sad. One can not create a fingrance with eight ingredients

today.

write five sentences about who you

are in relation to Natural Perfumery

4. Natural Perfume Qualities

We are building a 'perfume pyra-mid', which is well supported in the

base and that has enough interest to

capture the imagination. A natural

perfume has the following quali-

ties:

Balance so that no single compo-

nent can be detected (unless it is a

Soliflore)

Character The twists and turns of

a perfume as it evolves on the skin.

What kind of a perfume is this? Is it

a raunchy riot? Is it soft and gentle?

Where does it take you? What's at

the heart of it? Does it have person-

ality? Who would this perfume

appeal to?

Diffusion to surround the wearer

with an aura of scent

Tenacity staying power is the

ability of a perfume to last on the

wearer for more than just a couple

of hours

Structure Is there harmony in the

mix? Have the base, heart, and headnotes been properly addressed? Are

the proportions correct for these

ingredients so that there is balance,

character, diffusion, and tenacity?

Does it have dimension?


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Perfume house established by Jean

Francois Houbigant in 1775. Like

Guerlain, Houbigant was patron-

ized by royalty in the early days of

its history, but unlike Guerlain, it

has not survived into the modernera with its reputation intact.

Houbigant Fougre Royale (1882)

was the first perfume to use the

synthetic coumarin, and is thus

sometimes called the first modern

perfume (although others give that

honor to Guerlain Jicky). Quelques

Fleurs, introduced in 1912, was

the first modern floral-bouquet

perfume (Scents of Time, p. 95).

Both fragrances were discontinued

in the 1950s, then relaunched in the

1980s. Fougre Royale is no longer

made; Quelques Fleurs, along with

the flanker Quelques Fleurs

Royale, is now almost all that

remains of the Houbigant prestige

fragrance line (others include

Houbigant Apercu, first released in

1925, and Duc de Vervins). Update:Fougre Royale was relaunched in

2010.

Other historical Houbigant fra-

grances that were originally intro-

duced as prestige scents, such as

Chantilly (1941) and Raffinee

(1982), have long since been repo-

sitioned as mass-market fragrances.

Houbigants ownership is too com-plicated to relate in detail. The firm,

or what was left of it, filed for

bankruptcy in 1993, then was

acquired (along with Dana) by

Renaissance Cosmetics in 1994.

Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 in

1999; its brands were acquired by

New Dana Perfumes, later renamed

Dana Classic Fragrances. Dana

Classic Fragrances still sells

Chantilly and a few other

Houbigant perfumes, but they do

not use the Houbigant name.

The prestige line, now called

Houbigant Paris, has been owned

by the Perris family since 2005.

They distribute Quelques Fleurs

and Fougre Royale.

Glen O. Brechbill

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Houbigant (pronounced: [u.bi.g??])

was a perfume manufacturer found-

ed in Paris, France in 1775 by Jean-

Franois Houbigant of Grasse

(1752-1807), originally selling

gloves, perfumes, and bridal bou-quets. The original shop, called "A

la Corbeille de Fleurs", was in the

rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor.

Clients included Queen Marie-

Antoinette of France; two French

emperors; Princess Adlade

d'Orlans (1829); Princess Dagmar

of Denmark, wife of emperor

Alexander III of Russia (1890);

Madame Du Barry, mistress of

King Louis XV of France; and

Queen Victoria of England.

An Houbigant legend, not verified,

has it that when Marie Antoinette

was fleeing to Varennes to escape

the French revolutionaries she was

recognised as royalty because of

her Houbigant perfume, which only

royalty could afford[1].

Houbigant is one of the world's old-

est perfumers. Older Houbigant

perfumes and bottles are collecta-

ble. The company ceased to be

independent in 1995, although the

name Houbigant and the names of

many of its products continue.

Amongst their fragrances are

Lutece, Raffinee, Quelques Fleurs.

Houbigant was the first perfume

manufacturer to use coumarin, in

their Fougre Royale[2].

1775: Perfumer Jean-Franois

Houbigant opens A la Corbeille de

Fleurs, Rue Faubourg St Honor

1807: Perfumer Armand-Gustave

Houbigant, the son of Jean-

Franois, joins the house

1807: Houbigant was appointed

personal perfumer to Napoleon and

created a special perfume for

Empress Josephine

In 1829, Houbigant was appointed

perfumer to Her Royal Highness,

the Princess Adelaide dOrleans,

mother of King Louis-Philippe.

In 1838, the French house was

awarded the license of Perfumer to

Her Majesty, Queen Victoria of

England.

In 1880 perfumer Paul Pa

became joint owner.

In 1882, Paul Parquet cr

Fougre Royale.

In 1890 Tsar Alexander III n

Houbigant perfumer to the Im

Court of Russia

In 1912 Perfumer Bienaim j

Houbigant and created fragr

for the house until he founde

own in 1935.

In 1912 perfumer Bienaim

duced Quelques Fleurs.

pre-1950 perfumers Paul Sc

and Marcel Billot created per

for Houbigant

1990 - Houbigant relau

Lutece from prestige depar

store brand to domestic brand

In the 1980s Houbigant relauQuelques Fleurs

In 1985 Houbigant launched

de Vervins


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In 1998 Houbigant launched

Quelques Fleurs Royale

The Houbigant fragrances

Quelques Fleurs (the first true

multi-floral bouquet) and QuelquesFleurs Royale (which is based upon

the formula created for Princess

Adelaide D'Orleans) are now being

manufactured under the original

specifications by LOFT Fashion

and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco

and marketed in the United States

by Exclusive Fragrances and

Cosmetics.

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There are at least three different

stories to the history of Houbigant:

the days of royalty, the cutting edge

synthetics and the fall to a second

or third tier drug store brand.

The Glory Days

Jean-Franois Houbigant (1752-

1807) launched his perfume busi-

ness at 19, Faubourg Saint-Honor,

Paris, in 1775. Houbigant was

twenty three years old at the time

and so it is said arrived at the loca-

tion of his new business with a bas-

ket of flowers. The Basket of

Flowers became the sign over his

shop and, for many years, the

address given at the top of his

invoices.

Enrolled in the appropriate guild

the Perfumers and Glovemakers

Houbigant was permitted, under

law, "to make and sell all kinds of

scents, powders, pomades, pastes to

whiten and clense the skin, soaps,

toilet-waters, gloves, mittens andskin material."

An 1801 Houbigant handbill adver-

tised that:

and considered very fashion

Fine houses were being built

Colise was attracting fashio

society with its various diver

The beautiful (rich) people

flocking to the district Houbigant's wares were not

looked.

A Houbigant account book w

survived into the 20th ce

records sales between 1777

1782. Listed among Houb

shoppers were clerical c

including the abb d'Osmon

cur of Tillenl, the abe

Pinguilly, the Bishop of Air

the Abbess of the Parc-aux-D

Marquises included de Gram

de Girac, de Gontaut, de Ma

de Boisgelin ... countesses inc

de Matignon, d'Hrouville

Pontchartrain, de Damas ... m

included de Polignac, de Pr

de Lostanges, de la Roche-La

... vicomtes de Choiseul an

Lomnie. And then thereMonsieur de Maison Rouge

this is just a sprinkling of n

from this one account book. A

invoice is made out to the C

de Sax, the daughter of the P

At the Sign of the Basket of

Flowers,

Grande-Rue du Faubourg Saint-

Honor

Houbigant

Merchant - Perfumer

Manufactures and Sells Gloves,

Powders, Pomades and Perfumes;

also the genuine vegetable Rouge

which he has perfected to the high-

est degree. He makes and supplies

Corbeilles de mariage et Baptmes

with every requisite.

Makeup, for society ladies, was

very much in demand and

Houbigant's customers were the

rich and the royal. Men and women

of society both made great use of

perfume and scented products to

the extent, it is said, that the

Marquis de Granford ordered his

troops to put on perfume before thewent into battle.

In 1775, when Houbigant opened

shop, the area around Faubourg

Saint-Honor was a new district


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Xavier of Saxony, uncle to Louis

XVI.

But the great Houbigant legend not

verified is that Marie Antoinette, in

disguise on her flight to Varennes,was wearing a Houbigant fra-

grance, which caused her to be

identified as royalty when her

coach was stopped, because none

but royalty would have possessed

such a magnificent perfume!

Amazingly, or perhaps not so

amazingly, the French Revolution

hardly caused a dent in Houbigant'ssales curve. The newly empowered

craved perfumes no less than those

who had been swept away. Then,

when the Empire succeeded the

Directoire, the House of Houbigant

rose to new heights.

In 1829, Houbigant was appointed

perfumer to Her Royal Highness,

the Princess Adlaide d'Orleans. In

1838, England got on board and

Houbigant was appointed perfumer

to the Queen. The Empress Eugnie

was a Houbigant customer, as was

Napoleon III, who, the records

show, had his account closed on

July 19, 1870.

When Jean-Franois Houbigant

died in 1807, he was succeeded by

his son, Armand-GustaveHoubigant (1790-1863). In addition

to being head of the House of

Houbigant, Armand-Gustave dis-

tinguished himself as an artist, a

Legion of Honor awardee, and, for

several years, the mayor of Nogent-

synthetic in perfumery, at the

it was introduced, Houbigan

ferred not to mention its use o

material. Rather, there was

about "scientific methods pu

practice commercially", imponly that Houbigant's fragr

were developed using very m

production methods, i.e.,

emphasis was on quality.

During this period, Houb

stretched out its commercial

around the world. Under the

tion of the Paris office, offices

established in the United SEngland, Belgium, Ho

Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Po

Romania. Connections were

in Havana, Buenos-Aires, R

Janeiro, Australia, Japan,

China.

The New York office had its

manufacturing facility dist

Houbigant goods to "all parts

country."

Paul Parquet's creativity didn

with Fougre Royal. He cont

introducing perfumes using

thetic materials and, in 1900,

duced Le Parfum Ideal, in

Couer De Jeanette, and in

Parfum Inconnu.

Houbigant perfumer Bienpicked up the ball from

Parquet and, in 1912, intro

Quelque Fleurs, one of Houbi

all time great fragrances. Bien

left Houbigant in 1935 to foun

own house. But, during the

sur-Oise, the town where he had

taken up residence and in which he

died.

The next chapter of the Houbigant

story begins with Armand-GustaveHoubigant's successor, perfumer

Paul Parquet.

Fougre Royal

Perfumer Paul Parquet became

joint owner of the Houbigant busi-

ness in 1880. It was under his direc-

tion that manufacturing and admin-

istration were moved to Neuilly-sur-Seine were facilities could be

expanded. Staffing was increased,

laboratories were installed.

Houbigant was preparing for a new

age. It has been said that Paul

Parquet was the first perfumer to

understand the importance of the

new synthetic aroma materials. The

first of these were simply synthetic

substitutes for aroma materials

derived from natural sources. Later

would come the synthetics for

which there were no corresponding

natural materials.

In 1882, Parquet introduced

Fougre Royal, a fragrance that

would define a type of perfume the

"fougre" (or fern-like) fragrance

family. But even more important,

Fougre Royal was build around anaccord of oakmoss, geranium, berg-

amot and synthetic coumarin.

As a footnote we might add that,

while today we praise this fra-

grance for the first known use of a

Glen O. Brechbill

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Parquet, pre-1950's period,

Houbigant had the services of per-

fumers Paul Schving and Marcel

Billot. It was Marcel Billot who

was responsible for another great

Houbigant fragrance, Chantilly,launched in 1941.

The Modern Era

In 1993 Houbigant filed for chapter

11 bankruptcy protection in New

York listing liabilities of $52.5 mil-

lion and assets of just $23 million.

Part of the losses were blamed on a

French manufacturing facilitywhich was not proving to be prof-

itable.

In 1994, Houbigant give a license

to a start-up company, Renaissance

Cosmetics, Inc., to manufacture

and market twelve Houbigant fra-

grances using the Houbigant name.

Formulae for the fragrances were

included in the deal.

Renaissance itself filed for bank-

ruptcy protection in 1999.

The years between 1994 and 1999

saw much litigation which included

complaints by Houbigant that its

fragrances were being "watered

down" and its name was being used

in ways not contemplated by the

licensing agreement. Ultimately,when these complaints were set-

tled, Houbigant litigated with

Renaissance's insurers over the

same claims.

The watering down accusation

presents something of a puzzle

because Renaissance clearly stated

that its goal was to sell fragrances

to mass merchants drug store

chains and discounters rather than

Houbigant's elite 19th centuryclientele. The days of marketing to

royalty were over. Not only did

Renaissance need the famous

Houbigant brand names, they need-

ed affordable compounds that could

be sold profitably in a market that

allowed only the thinnest of

markups.

When the dust finally settled,Renaissance had vanished,

Houbigant was no longer a perfume

maker, and the Houbigant name

became legally attached to fra-

grances that had come a long way

from their original formulations.

With the notable exception of

Quelques Fleurs (which had been

committed elsewhere), a company

... and then two companies ... called

"New Dana" emerged with the

legal right to use the "Houbigant"

name in connection with a number

of Houbigant fragrance trade names

on fragrances they manufactured

themselves. Houbigant had ceased

policing its classic fragrances for

compliance with the originals.


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An herb is a plant that is valued for

flavor, scent, medicinal or other

qualities. Herbs are used in cook-

ing, as medicines, and for spiritual

purposes.

Uses

Mimosa pudica (Sensitive Plant), is

a creeping annual or perennial herb.

Herbs have a variety of uses includ-

ing culinary, medicinal, or in some

cases even spiritual usage. General

usage differs between culinary

herbs and medicinal herbs. In

medicinal or spiritual use any of the

parts of the plant might be consid-

ered "herbs", including leaves,

roots, flowers, seeds, resin, root

bark, inner bark (cambium), berries

and sometimes the pericarp or other

portions of the plant.

Culinary herbs

Culinary use of the term "herb" typ-ically distinguishes between herbs,

from the leafy green parts of a plant

(either fresh or dried), and spices,

from other parts of the plant (usual-

ly dried), including seeds, berries,

herbs are toxic in larger quan

For instance, some types of h

extract, such as the extract

John's-wort (Hypericum pe

tum) or of kava (Piper m

ticum) can be used for medicaposes to relieve depression

stress. However, large amoun

these herbs may lead to toxic

load that may involve com

tions, some of a serious natur

should be used with caution

herb-like substance, called Sh

may actually help lower bloo

cose levels which is espe

important for those suffering

diabetes. Herbs have long

used as the basis of tradi

Chinese herbal medicine,

usage dating as far back as th

century CE and far before.

Medicinal use of herbs in W

cultures has its roots in

Hippocratic (Greek) elem

healing system, based on a 4

elements healing metaFamous herbalist of the W

tradition include Avi

(Arabian), Galen (Ro

Paracelsus (German Sw

Culpepper (English) and the b

bark, root and fruit. Culinary herbs

are distinguished from vegetables

in that, like spices, they are used in

small amounts and provide flavor

rather than substance to food.

Many culinary herbs are perennials

such as thyme or lavender, while

others are biennials such as parsley

or annuals like basil. Some perenni-

al herbs are shrubs (such as rose-

mary, Rosmarinus officinalis), or

trees (such as bay laurel, Laurus

nobilis) this contrasts with botan-

ical herbs, which by definition can-

not be woody plants. Some plants

are used as both an herb and a

spice, such as dill weed and dill

seed or coriander leaves and seeds.

Also, there are some herbs such as

those in the mint family that are

used for both culinary and medici-

nal purposes.

Medicinal herbs

Plants contain phytochemicals thathave effects on the body.

There may be some effects when

consumed in the small levels that

typify culinary "spicing", and some

PUBLICATION DATENOT KNOWN

Herb

Glen O. Brechbill

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ically inclined Eclectic physicians

of 19th century/early 20th century

America (John Milton Scudder,

Harvey Wickes Felter, John Uri

Lloyd). Modern pharmaceuticals

had their origins in crude herbalmedicines, and to this day, many

drugs are still extracted as fraction-

ate/isolate compounds from raw

herbs and then purified to meet

pharmaceutical standards.

Some herbs are used not only for

culinary and medicinal purposes,

but also for psychoactive and/or

recreational purposes; one suchherb is cannabis.

Sacred herbs

Herbs are used in many religions.

For example, myrrh (Commiphora

myrrha) and frankincense

(Boswellia spp) in Christianity, the

Nine Herbs Charm in Anglo-Saxon

paganism, the neem tree

(Azadirachta indica) by the Tamils,

holy basil or tulsi (Ocimum tenui-

florum) in Hinduism, and many

Rastafarians consider cannabis

(Cannabis sp) to be a holy plant.

Siberian Shamans also used herbs

for spiritual purposes. Plants may

be used to induce spiritual experi-

ences for rites of passage, such as

vision quests in some Native

American cultures. The CherokeeNative Americans use white sage

and cedar which for spiritual

cleansing and smudging.

This section may require

cleanup to meet Wikipedia's quality

standards. (Consider using more

specific clean up instructions.)

Please improve this section if you

can. The talk page may contain

suggestions. (July 2010)

Herbs are also known amongst gar-

deners to be useful for pest control.

Mint, spearmint, peppermint, and

pennyroyal are a few such herbs.

These herbs when planted around a

house's foundation can help keep

away unwanted creatures such as

flies, mice, ants, fleas, moth and

tick amongst others. They are not

known to be harmful or dangerousto children or pets, or any of the

house's fixtures. Herbs are often

used to repel pests from vegetable

and flower gardens.

Botanical herbs

In botanical usage an herb or herba-

ceous plant is any non-woody

plant, regardless of its flavor, scent

or other properties. A botanical

herb cannot therefore be a woody

plant such as a tree or shrub.


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The Fragrance Wheel is a fragrance

classification method developed in

1983 by Michael Edwards, a con-

sultant in the fragrance industry. He

designed it after being inspired by a

fragrance seminar by Firmenich.[1]The new method was initiated in

order to make simpler the fragrance

classification and naming scheme,

as well as to show the relationships

between each individual fragrance

family.

The four standard families are

Floral, Oriental, Woody and Fresh.

These are in turn divided into three

sub-groups and arranged in a circle,

each group being related to the

next. The exception to this rule is

the Fougre family which stands in

the center of the Fragrance wheel as

it contains elements from many of

the other families. Originally they

are:

The Fougre family is placed at the

center of this wheel since they are alarge family of scents that usually

contain fragrance elements from

each of the other four families; cit-

rus from the fresh family, oak moss

and woods from the woody family,

Soft Floral (Floral Notes).

notes include aldehydes and

dery notes.

Floral Oriental (Floral + Or

Notes). Main notes include oblossom and sweet spices.

Soft Oriental (Oriental + F

Notes). Main notes include in

and amber.

Oriental (Oriental Notes).

notes include oriental resin

vanilla.

Woody Oriental (Oriental + W

Notes). Main notes include sa

wood and patchouli.

Woods Main notes include ar

ic woods and vetiver.

Mossy Woods (Woody + Or

Notes). Main notes include

moss and amber.

Dry Woods (Woody Notes).

notes include dry woods

leather.

Citrus (Woody + Fresh N

coumarin and incense from the

Oriental family, and lavender from

the floral family.

In this classification scheme,

Chanel No.5, which is traditionallyclassified as a "Floral Aldehyde"

would be located under Soft Floral

sub-group, and "Amber" scents

would be placed within the Oriental

group. As a class, Chypres is more

difficult to place since they would

be located under parts of the

Oriental and Woody families. For

instance, Guerlain Mitsouko, which

is classically identified as a chypre

will be placed under Mossy Woods,

but Herms Rouge, a chypre with

more floral character, would be

placed under Floral Oriental.

With the publication of Fragrances

of the World 2008, two new sub-

groups: Fruity and Woods, have

been added to the wheel

The sub-groups of the fragrancewheel are:

Floral (Floral + Fresh Notes). Main

notes include fresh-cut flowers.

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Main notes include bergamot and

other citrus oils.

Fruity Main notes include berries

and other non-citrus fruits.

Green (Fresh Notes). Main notes

include galbanum and green notes.

Water (Fresh + Floral Notes). Main

notes include marine and aquatic

notes, generally from the chemical

calone.

Fougre - The universal fragrance

family whose scent includes ele-ments from different families: the

freshness of from the Citrus family,

floral notes of lavender, the spicy-

sweetness of a Floral Oriental, the

ambery depth of an Oriental and the

Mossy Woods warmth of sandal-

wood and oakmoss.



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Fougre, meaning "fern-like", is

one of the main families into which

modern perfumes are classified,

with the name derived from the per-

fume Fougre Royale for

Houbigant formulated by the per-fumer Paul Parquet. The class of

fragrances have the basic accord

with a top-note of lavender and

base-notes of oakmoss and

coumarin. Aromatic fougre, a

derivative of this class contain

additional notes of spice and wood.

Members of the family are espe-

cially popular as fragrances for

men.

Style

Many modern fougre perfumes

have various citrus, herbaceous,

green, floral and animalic notes

included. They all tend to have a

sweet/bitter and woody accord,

which consists of a base accord of:

The most common modifiers to this

basic accord include vetiver and

geranium. Bergamot is often pres-

ent to add sharpness to the lavender

top-note.

Grasse region of France whe

fragrant compounds are extr

as Oakmoss absolutes and ext

These raw materials are often

as perfume fixatives and form

base notes of many fragraThey are also key componen

Fougre and Chypre class

fumes. The lichen has a distinc

complex odor and can be desc

as woody, sharp and slightly s

Oakmoss growing on pines h

pronounced turpentine odor t

valued

arranging fine perfume compositions - the fougere, lavender's

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