aurevoir magazine n°1 ss 2014
DESCRIPTION
AuRevoir è un progetto editoriale semestrale di moda, made in Milano. AuRevoir nasce come un flusso di coscienza in cui visioni, memoria e ricerca si intrecciano dando vita ad un’estetica evocativa e moderna. AuRevoir ama gli spazi intimi, la bellezza suggerita e raramente palesata, l’imperfezione che rende prezioso un gesto. Le immagini a definire la nostra identità. AuRevoir is a biannual fashion editorial project, made in Milan. AuRevoir born as a stream of consciousness, in which visions, memory and research interlace creating evocative and modern aesthetics. AuRevoir loves intimate spaces, the suggested and rarely unveiled beauty, the imperfection that makes it a precious gesture. The images define our identity.TRANSCRIPT
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N°1 SS’14
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AuRevoir MagazineSpring Summer 2014, Issue 1Intimacywww.aurevoirmagazine.com
Founder and Fashion Editor: Maela [email protected]
Graphic Design:Alberto MoreuThink Work Observewww.t-wo.it
Contributing Photographers: I laria D’Atri, Agneza Dorkin, Martina Giammaria, Donald Gjoka, Alberto Moreu, Martina Scorcucchi
Contributing Stylists and Artists: Thais Bretas, Daisy Calleja, Francesca Castelvetro, Serena Novello, Alice Pontoni, Rory Rice, Rocco Santamorena, Nadja Scalzi
Contributing Writer:Matilde Angelucci
English Translations:Julian Vizioli
Cover of Issue 1:True Beauty, Donald GjokaMaria wears her own clothes
CopyrightAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher. All artworks are exclusive property of the owners.
©2014 AuRevoir Magazine, the Authors andthe Photographers.
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AuRevoir è un progetto editoriale semestrale di moda, made in Milano. AuRevoir nasce come un flusso di coscienza in cui visioni, memoria e ricerca si intrecciano dando vita ad un’estetica evocativa e moderna. AuRevoir ama gli spazi intimi, la bellezza suggerita e raramente palesata, l ’imperfezione che rende prezioso un gesto. Le immagini a definire la nostra identità.
AuRevoir is a biannual fashion editor ia l project , made in Mi lan. AuRevoir born as a st ream of consciousness, in which visions, memor y and research interlace creat ing evocat ive and modern aesthet ics . AuRevoir loves int imate spaces, the suggested and rarely unvei led beauty, the imperfect ion that makes it a precious gesture. The images def ine our ident it y.
N°1 SS’14
Introduzione: Maela Leporati
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N°1 SS’14
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English texts 84
Contents 03
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Intimacy
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Donald Gjoka 04
Model: Maria . Test i : Matilde Angelucci.
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True Beauty 05
Donald e Maria si conoscono a Parigi. Donald le propone alcuni scatti. Un pomeriggio si trovano a casa di Donald.
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True Beauty 06
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True Beauty 08
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Hanno a disposizione solo uno sfondo neutro e luci naturali. Maria indossa i suoi abitied è senza trucco. Donald le chiede di esprimere passione.
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True Beauty 10
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True Beauty 12
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True Beauty 14
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True Beauty 16
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D. — Voglio la bel lezza reale.
La bel lezza autentica. La bel lezza scomposta. La bel lezza incompresa. La bel lezza senza missione. La bel lezza che si infrange di colpo e di colpo si r itrae. La bel lezza inespressa, che s’impara in un gioco sol itar io
di fronte a l lo specchio. La bel lezza che non si cerca, ma si lascia accadere. La bel lezza negata. La bel lezza indesiderata. La bel lezza anomala, col r ischio di irregolarità. La bel lezza che non si conosce e che può mettere
a disagio. Che asseconda i difet t i e resta imparziale sul le fragi l ità. La bel lezza distrat ta. Che non r i f let te su se stessa. Che sfugge al le def inizioni . Rinuncia agl i stereot ipi . Che devia. Che sta dietro la “bel lezza”. Dietro lo smarrirsi in un eccesso di emozione. La bel lezza onesta. Che r ichiede unicamente l’ingresso dentro un universo
privato. Che non si concentra sul le circostanze ester iori . La bel lezza senza pudori e col pudore di mostrarsi . Sf iorata nel suo centro e rest ituita senza f i ltr i .
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True Beauty 18
M. — A un certo punto ricordo di aver persino pianto.
La bellezza della “caduta”. Dell’essere in transizione. Come esperienza inedita. Come sfida del limite. Alla ricerca di senso. Di un senso che si apprende per la prima volta, oppure raramente. Più spesso mai. Scegliendo
l’oltreconfine. L’abbandono come necessità. Al nuovo e allo “straniero”. Per poter accogliere l’irregolarità (senza censure). Come fa Maria. Dentro i suoi abiti fragili. In un crescendo di distorsioni. Distratta-tesa-trafitta.
Con i lineamenti che si piegano come carta velina. L’immagine che si sgretola nella ridefinizione di sé. E si ricompone nella fluidità di un mosaico di visioni intermittenti. Scomoda, inadeguata, inaccessibile.
Senza furbizia. Senza sovraesposizioni. Da digerire frammento per frammento. Lungo il tragitto verso la scoperta della “bellezza reale”. Che coincide con l’essere se stessi sul punto di rottura. E scaturisce da una circostanza non
voluta. Per caso. Un pomeriggio a Parigi. In un appartamento. Dove si scoprono necessarie pochissime cose. Molte meno di quelle date. Solo le “presenze” e le emozioni.
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Martina Scorcucchi 20
Fashion Editor: Maela Leporati. Fashion Assistant: Francesca Castelvetro.Hair: Rory Rice (at) WM Management . Make Up: Thais Bretas (at) WM Management .
Models: Robert Broks and Anais Garnier (at) Elite Milan .
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Lovers 21
Anais: g iacca Arthur Arbesser. Top Mariù De Sica . Orecchini Sharra Pagano.Borsa Corsoundici . Sandal i Robert Clergerie. Robert: camicia Comeforbreakfast . Completo Au Jour le Jour.
Occhial i Conservatoire International de Lunettes . Scarpe OXS .
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Lovers 22
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Anais: g iacca Arthur Arbesser. Top Mariù De Sica . Orecchini Sharra Pagano.Borsa Corsoundici . Sandal i Robert Clergerie. Robert: camicia Comeforbreakfast . Completo Au Jour le Jour.
Occhial i Conservatoire International de Lunettes . Scarpe OXS .(�) Camicia Eton . Giacca Giovanni Malaguti . Pantaloni Tonello . Scarpe Oliver Spencer .
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Lovers 24
Anais: g iacca Arthur Arbesser. Top Mariù De Sica . Orecchini Sharra Pagano.Borsa Corsoundici . Sandal i Robert Clergerie. Robert: camicia Comeforbreakfast . Completo Au Jour le Jour.
Occhial i Conservatoire International de Lunettes . Scarpe OXS .
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Lovers 26
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Abito Missoni . Giacca Banana Republic . Borsa AB A Brand Apart .Orecchini Sharra Pagano.
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Cappotto Stella Jean .
Lovers 28
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Maglia Missoni .
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Lovers 30
Robert: magl ia Missoni . Anais: top Covherlab by Marco Grisolia .Orecchini Sharra Pagano.
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Top COTE . Gonna Sergio Daricello.
Lovers 32
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Anais: g iacca Liven. Top e gonna Hache. Cappel lo Federica Morett i .Orecchini Shourouk. Robert: t rench Hancock × Missoni.
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Agneza Dorkin 34
Fashion Editor: Maela Leporati. Fashion Assistant: Francesca Castelvetro. Hair and Make Up: Rocco Santamorena . Model: Lana (at) Boom Milan .
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Underskin 35
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Underskin 36
Collana Sharra Pagano . Pantaloncini Ilaria Nistri .
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Completo e parigine Wolford . Collana Sharra Pagano .
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Underskin 38
Calzemaglie Wolford . Orecchini Sharra Pagano .
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Camicia Ilaria Nistri . Orecchini Sharra Pagano .
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Underskin 40
Camicia Ilaria Nistri . Orecchini Sharra Pagano .
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Sottoveste Wolford . Collana Sharra Pagano .
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Underskin 42
Gonna Ilaria Nistri . Collana Mirit Weinstock .
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Completo Wolford . Anello e bracciale Mirit Weinstock .
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Underskin 44
Completo Wolford . Anello e bracciale Mirit Weinstock .(�) Abito Albino .
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Martina Giammaria 46
Fashion Editor: Maela Leporati. Fashion Assistant: Francesca Castelvetro.Hair and Make Up: Daisy Calleja . Model: Klementyna Dmowska (at) Next Milan .
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Sciarpa Ilaria Nistri . Abito Albino .
La sconosciuta 47
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La sconosciuta 48
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Maglia Ivano Triolo . Sottovesti Cristiano Burani . Sandali Robert Clergerie .Orecchini Sharra Pagano .
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La sconosciuta 50
Stivaletti Memento Duo .(�) Maglia Gentucca Bini . Orecchini Sharra Pagano .
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La sconosciuta 52
Maglia Vintage 55 . Gonna Sylvio Giardina . Collana Persy .Stivaletti Memento Duo .
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La sconosciuta 54
Giacca Sylvio Giardina . Gonna Cristina Miraldi .Collana Sharra Pagano .
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Chiodo Missoni . Abito Sylvio Giardina . Occhiali Conservatoire International de Lunettes .Borsa Gianlisa . Scarpe I ’M Isola Marras .
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La sconosciuta 56
Cappotto in denim Hache . Cappello Ilariusss .Pantaloni Sylvio Giardina . Orecchini Shourouk . Sandali Robert Clergerie .
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Ilaria D’Atri 58
Fashion Editor: Maela Leporati. Hair: Nadja Scalzi.Models: Rita, Benito, Vincenzo, Daniela . Test i : I laria D’Atri.
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 59
(�) Camicia e pantaloni Mauro Grifoni.(�) Abito Mariù De Sica . Scarpe Robert Clergerie.
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 60
Daniela: abito Mariù De Sica . Cappel lo Frendo Vintage. Scarpe Robert Clergerie.Benito: camicia Tonello.
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Le scale, i l loro contorno. lo spazio di cielo-cemento che i l sole descrive. I l r icamo ingenuo, perfet to, del palmo tuo. È la stessa mappa che solenne scivola su queste mura spogl ie.
I l pavimento è i l mio orecchio destro, posso dire io c’ero: l’immobi le, t remulo, accecante at t imo in cui le onde hanno raggiunto i l let to.
Che sia festa o tempesta, qui le stel le hanno lasciato la stanza, voltandosi hanno dimenticato tr iangoli di luce a r iscaldart i i l corpo,
Che sia pace o cuore stremato, sono tue le braccia in cui r iposo. perché io e Vanigl ia abbiamo gl i occhi gemel l i e nel cuore i l Vulcano che dorme.
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 62
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Camicia e pantaloncini Mauro Grifoni .St ivalet t i Groupies Vintage Milano.
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 64
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Pantaloni e camicia Tonello.
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 66
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Giacca e pantaloni Tonello. Camicia Sun 68 .
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Top 1.Dark Level . Pantaloni Marianna Cimini .
Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 68
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Maglia e completo Comeforbreakfast .
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Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles 70
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Flamingo Suit 72
Test i : Matilde Angelucci.
Photography: Alberto Moreu . Fashion&Styl ing: Serena Novello. Hair&MakeUp: Alice Pontoni. Model: Sofia .
June 2014, 09:54 p.m. Conosco Serena virtualmente. Le mando poche domande, intuisco una personalità da raccontare con il culto dell’essenziale. In linea con il suo approccio individualista e “solitario”, mantenuto in purezza. Con un percorso di crescita artistica coerente. Con un blog “rilassato”, senza effetti speciali. Mi racconta che la sua passione per il disegno nasce tra i banchi di scuola e che la scelta d’iscriversi alla facoltà di fashion design è stata naturale, dettata dal bisogno di dare seguito alla sua passione. Di trovare la sua direzione ma senza l’urgenza d’identificarsi. Intravedo in lei una “calma” consapevolezza, un voler passare oltre ogni tentazione narcisistica. Oltre la foga di dimostrare.
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Serena Novello 73
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Flamingo Suit 74
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Flamingo Suit 76
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Flamingo Suit 78
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Flamingo Suit 80
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Quando le chiedo quale sia il fil rouge del sul lavoro mi risponde semplicemente “la mia mano”. Una mano che asseconda un flusso creativo senza imposizioni (e senza aspettative): “spesso capita casualmente che io componga
tavole armoniose, i colori si scelgono da sé, non pondero molto le mie decisioni, preferisco agire d’istinto”. E che trova la sua direzione in un particolare sperimentalismo, in un’impronta stilistica dall’anima borderline. In cui anche gli inserti più “ammiccanti” sono tradotti in chiave minimale per desiderio di compensazione e di
equilibrio, le citazioni e gli accostamenti “respirano” in assenza di esasperazioni formali. Tutto per riconsegnare all’abito femminile la propria visione senza prestiti, senza compiacimento. E per non relegarlo a un’estetica
preconfezionata, satura in partenza. Con l’agilità dei vent’anni che pure non è scontata.
Flamingo Suit 82
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English Texts 84DoNAlD GjokA 04
True Beauty
D. — I want the true beauty.
The authentic beauty. The dismantled beauty. The beauty that is misundersto-od. The beauty with no aim. The beauty that can suddenly shatter and recoil it-self. The unspoken beauty that you learn by playing a lonely game in front of the mirror. The beauty that doesn’t need to be sought, but allows itself to happen. The neglected beauty. The unwanted beauty. The odd beauty, with the risk of being warped. The beauty than can give you a feeling of uneasiness. That plays along with its flaws and stays impartial to its weaknesses. The distracted beau-ty. Which does not reflect upon itself. It escapes from definitions. It avoids stere-otypes. It changes path. It stays behind the “beauty”. Hidden behind getting lost in an emotional outpour. The ho-nest beauty. That only requires access into a private world. That does not take into account external factors. The beau-ty with no shame, shame in showing it-self. Gently touched in its core and given back unchanged.
M. — I even remember to have cried at one point.
The beauty of the “fall”. Of being in tran-sition. As a new experience. As a challen-ge to the limits. Searching for a meaning. A meaning that you hear for the first time, or rarely encounter it. More often than never. Choosing from beyond the borders. Abandonment as necessity. To the new and “foreign”. In order to let in
the irregularities (with no restrictions). As Maria does. In her fragile clothes. In a crescendo of warps. Distracted-tense-pierced. With its features that crinkle like tissue paper. The image that crumbles in a redefinition of itself. And rebuilds it-self in the fluidity of a mosaic made of discontinuous visions. Awkward, inade-quate, unattainable. Without craftiness. Not overexposing itself. To assimilate one bit at a time. Along its journey to-wards discovering the “true beauty”. Which coincides with the moment of being yourself in the moment of breach. And it happens from an unwanted event. By chance. A Friday afternoon in Paris. In an apartment. Where very few neces-sary things are found. A lot less than those that were given. Only the “pre-sences” and the emotions. Donald meets Mary for the first time in Paris. Donald asks if he can take some pictures of her. One afternoon they both are in Donald’s apartment. At their disposal, they only have a neutral background and natural lighting. Maria is wearing her own clo-thes and she has no make-up. Donald asks her to show passion.
IlARIA D’ATRI 58
Tous Les Garcons et Les Filles
The stairs, their outline / The sky-ce-ment space that the sun delineates / The perfect, naive embroidery of your palm / Follows the same pattern that solemnly slithers on these bare walls / The floor is my right ear, / I can say I was there; / The still, trembling and blinding mo-ment / where the waves have reached the bed / Whether it is a celebration or a storm, the stars here have left the room / By leaving, they have left triangles of light that warm the body / Whether it is
peace or a distressed heart / It is your arms in which I rest / Because you and I, we have twin eyes and in the heart / a volcano which is sleeping.
SERENA NovEllo 72
Flamingo Suit
I met Serena online. I send her a few questions, I grasp a personality that needs to be narrated through the cult of the essential and in line with her indi-vidualistic and “solitary” approach, kept with purity. With a coherent course of artistic growth and a “quiet” blog, wi-thout any special effects. She tells me that her passion for drawing started when she was at school and that her choice to join the faculty of fashion de-sign happened naturally, decided by the need to follow her passion. She wanted to find her own direction without the pressure to feel identified. I see in her a calm awareness, a will to go beyond a narcissistic temptation. Past the impe-tuosity to demonstrate. When I ask her what is the fil rouge of her work she sim-ply replies “my hand”. A hand that pan-ders a creative flux without impositions (and expectations) “it often happens that I create harmonious tables, the colours come up by themselves. I don’t ponder much on my decisions, I prefer to act following my instincts”. And its course is found in a particular experimentalism, a stylistic impression with a borderline soul. Also the most “alluring” inserts are reproduced in a minimal way from a desire of balance. The quotes and the approach “breathe”, wihout any formal exasperation. All in order to give back to the female dress its own vision, without complacency. And to not confine it to a prepackaged aesthetic. And the agility of a twenty year old which also doesn’t need to be taken for granted.
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Intimacy
AuRevoir MagazineIssue 1 , Spring Summer 2014 — Featuring: DoNAlD Gjok A 04,
AGNEzA DoRk IN 20, MARTINA GIAMMARIA 34,MARTINA SCoRCuCChI 46, IlARIA D’ATRI 58 , SERENA NovEllo 72
www.aurevoirmagazine.com