austin food magazine - fall 2014
DESCRIPTION
Arguably the most influential of all cuisine in Europe, Italian food and the influence of its techniques and flavors have become as much of a staple in American culture as it is across the pond. Generations of Italian families have migrated to Texas, preserving their own style of classic recipes and methods their ancestors have passed on. As a result, there’s a stellar collection of fine Italian cuisine across the city that even the most snobbish of food critics in Austin can savor.TRANSCRIPT
FROM TUSCANY TO TEXASAustin’s Pizza Evolution | Dolce Neve’s Gelato Indulgence | Recipes From Italia
FALL 2014
CAKE & MUFFINBLEND
G L U T E N - F R E E
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CONTENTS6 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
10 CONTRIBUTORS
12 TOAST OF THE TOWN Social Events
15 HERBIVOROUS EATERS Don't Tell Them It's Vegan
16 ITALIAN VEGAN RECIPE
21 TASTEFUL CREATIONS Cooking with Trish
26 ROVING APPETITES Three Little PIgs | Way South Philly
28 CELEBRITY SPOTLIGHT Child Chef | Brandon Scawthorne
30 GET YOUR CHEF TOGETHER In The Kitchen
33 SIP IT Austin Cocktails
ByeJoe Spirits
AUSTINFOOD
FALL 2014
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36 LETS TAKE IT OUTSIDE Travaasa Farm
42 TRAVEL Hotel Ella: Goodalls
68 THE SWEET SPOT Dolce Neve
The Cupcake Bar
72 UP IN SMOKE Micklethwait Craft Meats
76 CHEF'S INNER CIRCLE Kent Rathbun
79 A LA CARTE Cold Brew Coffee
80 TASTEFUL TECH NoWait App
81 SAVOR OUR FLAVOR Must Visit
6 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
36 LETS TAKE IT OUTSIDE Travaasa Farm
42 TRAVEL Hotel Ella: Goodalls
68 THE SWEET SPOT Dolce Neve
The Cupcake Bar
72 UP IN SMOKE Micklethwait Craft Meats
76 CHEF'S INNER CIRCLE Kent Rathbun
79 A LA CARTE Cold Brew Coffee
80 TASTEFUL TECH NoWait App
81 SAVOR OUR FLAVOR Must Visit
FE
AT
UR
ES
48
BUON APPETITOAndiamo
54APPARECCHIA
LA TAVOLAVespaio
61
PIZZERIAHomeslice
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 7
AMIDST THE BEVY OF AMAZING TEXAS BARBECUE, Tex Mex dishes and cozy food trucks we have to choose from in
Austin, many of us crave more culture in our cuisine options. No major city in the United States can rightfully call itself
a serious food town without considering its selection of italian cuisine. Despite what some may consider as “typical”
italian food, Papa John’s and Olive Garden are not the only cynical options we have available when considering one
of the most influential cuisines in world history. There’s no such thing as common food in Italy’s old country. Italians
have a deep love for traditional cooking that is anything but clichéd.
Arguably the most influential of all cuisine in Europe, Italian food and the influence of its techniques and flavors
have become as much of a staple in American culture as it is across the pond. Generations of Italian families have
migrated to Texas, preserving their own style of classic recipes and methods their ancestors have passed on. As a
result, there’s a stellar collection of fine italian cuisine across the city that even the most snobbish of food critics in
Austin can savor.
As a an avid food writer and enthusiast, the most common question is always, “What’s your favorite restaurant?” Given
that my exposure to Italian food in our city has spanned a small spectrum from slices on Sixth to unlimited salad and
breadsticks at lunch, Italian fare never made it high atop the list. It is not because I did not enjoy the options in town,
but more so because I didn’t realize the options were so damn good! After hours of research (tasting, savoring and
indulging) I am singing a slightly different tune. The local italian cuisine may never engulf my enormous favoritism
toward the central Texas barbecue machine, but it has rekindled my enthusiasm.
Austin may never rival the culinary metropolises in the number of options one has
for quality Italian cuisine, but variety does not always trump quality. After enjoying
this issue, I hope you will appreciate the superb italian cuisine our city has to offer.
While we were able to explore a few options you’ll read about, I hope it will encourage
you to explore the diverse terrain for yourself. After hours of “research”, strangely,
I still have no idea which of Austin’s Italian dining options is my favorite. I suppose
it’s time for more research. Hope to see you there!
HAYDEN WALKER, EDITOR IN CHIEF
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
AUSTIN’S ITALIANCRAVEBY HAYDEN WALKER
PH
OT
O B
Y C
OU
RT
NE
Y P
IER
CE
8 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
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S t i l l g o i n g s t r o n g a n d
p r o u d l y s e r v i n g A u s t i n i t e s
a u t h e n t i c T u s c a n c u i s i n e
f o r t h e p a s t 1 4 y e a r s .
T h a n k y o u A u s t i n !
www.sienaaustin.com6203 N Capital of Texas HwyAustin, Texas(512) 349-7667
PUBLISHERS Shawn K. Lively, Robert Sek
EDITORIAL TEAMEDITOR IN CHIEF Hayden Walker
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Andrea Haughton
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Daniel Ramirez, Trish Wesevich,
Kristen Sheppard, Taylor Butler, Hayden Walker,
Meagan Vitek, Alisha McDarris, Andrea Haughton,
Rory McNeil, Markia Flatt, Amy Drohen, Janet
McCullar, Lela Jamalabad (Intern)
RECIPE CONTRIBUTER Trish Wesevich
ART & PRODUCTIONART DIRECTOR Kamryn Walden
WEB DESIGN Hayden Walker
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Becky Kittleman, Courtney
Pierce, Alisha McDaris, Kristin Sheppard, Colton Stark
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12 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
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AUSTIN FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
LEFT TO RIGHT | 1. Graham Elliot, Richard Blais, Ming Tsai, Christina Grdovic, Andrew Zimern 2. Jane Ko 3. Tim Love 4. Chef Ming Tsai 5. Andrew Zimmern
6. David Bull 7. Richard Blais (2014 Rock your Taco Winner) 8. Tyson Cole
14 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
GELATO WORLD TOUR
TOAST OF THE TOWN | SOCIAL EVENTS
CHEFS DINNER
CHEFS DINNER WITH Roman Murphy, Ben Edgerton, Andrew Wiseheart, Chef Scot Loranc, Carol Huntsberger, Brandon and Yelena Scawthorn.
2014 GELATO WORLD TOUR STOPS IN AUSTIN FOR IT'S ONLY NORTH AMERICAN VISIT. Sixteen of the best gelato artisans from the United States
competed to create the worlds best gelato flavor.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 15
There’s some stigma with most meat-eaters (not all,
mind you, but most) that makes them believe that if they
ingest a side dish not dripping in mayo or soaked in ba-
con grease that the moon will eclipse the sun, dogs will
start walking around on their hind legs, and they’ll im-
mediately be transformed into a scrawny specimen with
pale skin, organic cotton pants and a head scarf.
I haven’t done any case studies to figure out why they
believe these things to be true, but it appears that they
do. Which is why they won’t touch a vegan side-dish
with a nine and a half foot pole. Unless! They don’t know
it’s vegan. In fact, most omnivores wouldn’t know vegan
if it jumped out of a compost bin, gave them a healthy
dose of vitamin c, and filled their bellies to capacity. If
they don’t know that you used Veganaise in that pota-
to salad or coconut milk for whipped cream, they may
even enjoy their meal. Then, when they sit back, stretch
out their legs, rub their full belly and state how delicious
everything was (especially the peanut butter balls), then
you can tell them it’s vegan and sit back and enjoy their
looks of shock and surprise.
So the next time you’re invited to a backyard BBQ or din-
ner party, come prepared and don’t tell them it’s vegan.
HERBIVOROUS E ATERS | DON'T TELL THEM IT 'S VEGAN
It happens all the time: You spend hours on those
meatless balls and homemade sauce, go to three
different stores to find vegan cream cheese for your
7-layer dip, decorate the prettiest cupcakes on the table,
and all that’s missing at the end of the party is one and
a half servings.
You go to all the trouble of preparing a nice side dish
or dessert for the get-together and the attendees don’t
touch a thing. They don’t hover over and think maybe if I
have room on my paper plate after I fill it with more deli-
cious things. They won’t revisit your contribution when
they come back for seconds. They may even step two
feet away from the table when they reach the casserole
dish with your name on it as if there were an impen-
etrable force field surrounding it.
Then you end up hauling a nearly full bowl of your ja-
lapeño-papaya couscous that’s way too much for your
family of two to polish off before it goes bad back to
the car after the cookout simply because you told ev-
erybody it was vegan.
That’s right. Omnivores hear the word and run. They
run as far and as fast as they can, all while peering over
their shoulder to make some kind of vegetarian joke or
sad excuse for why they couldn’t possibly try your egg-
plant stack (You think I maintain this figure by eschew-
ing meat? He says while patting his beer belly or Some-
body’s got to eat beef or cows will over populate the
planet).
Solution: Don’t tell them it’s vegan. Ever. Seriously. Un-
less, of course, those cookies or hearts of palm cakes
are so unfathomably delectable that you secretly hoped
no one would eat them so you could have them all to
yourself. Because that’s what will happen the minute
you utter the V-word.
Don’t Tell Them it’s
VeganBY ALISHA MCDARRIS
Alisha McDarris
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 17
MUSHROOM RAVIOLI WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATO CREAM SAUCE
ITALIAN CUISINE. The mere thought of it is enough to strike fear and dread into the hearts of vegans everywhere.
Between the cream-based sauces, beef-stock soaked veggies and ubiquitous parmesan, an animal product-free Italian
dish can be hard to come by. And lets be honest: spaghetti with marinara can get old and it can get old quick. But
fear not! The next time someone suggests heading out for Italian, suggest staying in and try this delectable recipe
for a completely vegan, homemade variety of a beloved pasta dish. - Alisha McDarris
PASTA3 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cups water (+ 3 tablespoons water)
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
INSTRUCTIONS
In a medium bowl, combine flour and salt until well mixed. Form a small well in the middle and pour in the whisked mixture of ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons of water and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Slowly mix the wet and dry ingredients until the dough is thick enough to knead, then do so for 5-8 minutes. Form it into a ball then let it sit, covered, for 10 minutes.
After it has rested, split the dough into two equal parts and use a pasta maker to roll out the dough per your maker’s instructions. If you don’t have this handy device, grab a rolling pin and start rolling on a surface dusted with flour. You want each strip to be long and narrow, about 6 inches wide.
After the dough has been rolled thin, but not so thin that it will break apart when you fill it or lift it from the board, cut into squares and top half of them with the mushroom filling in mounds of about 1-2 teaspoons.
Moisten the edges of the pasta or wonton wrappers with water to help it stick together then lay the a pasta square or another wrapper on top, gently pressing down around each pile of filling, being careful to get as much air out as possible. Score around the edges of each ravioli with a fork.
Now you can either freeze the ravioli and cook it later or gently place 4-5 at a time in salted boiling water for 6 minutes or until they float. Remove them carefully with a slotted spoon or flipper and place on cooling rack to drain for a few moments.When the ravioli is no longer soggy, arrange on plates or bowls, drizzle with the cream sauce and enjoy! I promise it will be well-worth the effort!
Note: Don’t be afraid of making your own. It’s not as hard as it looks, though you will need a fair amount of countertop space. However, if it seems a feat equal to summiting Everest, run out and grab some wonton wrappers from your local grocery store (usually near the tofu).
HERBIVOROUS E ATERS | ITALIAN VEGAN RECIPE
18 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
CREAM SAUCE1/4 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 15 oz can coconut milk
1 cup water
1/2 cup raw cashews
2 tablespoons nutritional yeast flakes
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch (or arrowroot powder or flour)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
INSTRUCTIONS
Sauté the onion in olive oil for a few minutes until translucent, then add the garlic and cook for a minute more.
In a blender or food processor combine the water, coconut milk, cashews, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt until smooth. Pour into the sautéed vegetable mixture and whisk as it comes to a boil. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and let it all boil together for 3-5 minutes until the sauce has thickened.
Note: Creamy, delicious and flavorful, a little goes a long way.
HERBIVOROUS E ATERS | ITALIAN VEGAN RECIPE
FILLING8 ounces of finely chopped mushrooms
1 cup onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup raw cashews
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon fresh Italian parsley (minced)
INSTRUCTIONS
Sauté mushrooms and onions in olive oil until tender and most of the water has evaporated. Add the garlic just before the vegetables are finished cooking. In a blender or food processor combine the cashews, water and salt and blend until the mixture is creamy and smooth. Combine the sauce mixture with the mushroom mixture and cook on medium for around 5 minutes until the cream sauce has thickened. Set it aside for placement in your ravioli squares.
Note: It’s delicious, but be careful not to overfill the ravioli squares or they will fall apart when you cook them.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 19
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Embracing the true culinary culture of Italy requires passion and creativity.
Combining a few savory recipes created by Chef Trish Wesevich, a
luxurious Tuscan style home nestled in the Texas Hill Country, and a
passion for authentic italian cuisine provides the setting for a breathtaking
journey to Italy. Commissioning world class porcelain selections by Judy Blair
Interiors and Chef Trish’s vision of classic italian cuisine proves one can bring
the taste of Tuscany to Texas.
Taste of TuscanyWRIT TEN BY TRISH WESEVICH
ARCHITECTURAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECKY KIT TLEMAN
CULINARY PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 23
CHICKEN BAKED WITH FIGS & OLIVES
4 boneless chicken breasts
6 dried figs or 6 fresh figs, halved
1/2 cup pitted black olives
2 tbls. balsamic vinegar
2 tbls. olive oil
10 basil leaves
salt & pepper
TASTEFUL CRE ATIONS | COOKING WITH TRISH
CHICKEN BAKED WITH FIGS & OLIVES SERVED WITH ROASTED BROCCOLINI
Pound chicken breasts until about 1/2” thick and even all around. Place in shallow, oven proof dish and pour over chicken all remaining ingredients. Let marinade for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place dish in oven and bake for 25 minutes. Serves 4.
ROASTED BROCCOLINI
1 to 2 bunches Broccolini
Olive Oil
Pine Nuts
salt & pepper
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Heat 2 tbls olive oil in sauté pan and toast pine nuts until just golden. Cut off tough, bottom stem of broccolini and coat with olive oil making sure flowering ends are well coated. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast in oven on sheet pan for 25 minutes or until broccolini is crispy and caramelized yet tender. Top with toasted pine nuts.
By Trish Wesevich
24 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
TASTEFUL CRE ATIONS | COOKING WITH TRISH
LAMB LOIN CHOPS COOKED IN TOMATOES WITH BASIL PESTO SERVED WITH GURGUGLIONE
LAMB LOIN CHOPS WITH BASIL PESTO
6 lamb loin chops
1 to 2 upper leg lamb bones
4 to 5 large cloves garlic, peeled but not chopped
1 small white onion finely chopped
2 lbs ripe, fresh San Marzano tomatoes
1 can diced San Marzano tomatoes
olive oil
bay leaf, thyme and parsley
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large pot, heat 2 tbls olive oil. Brown loin chops on each side in olive oil after sprinkling with salt and pepper. 2 to 3 minutes each side. Remove from pan. Brown lamb bones and remove from pan. Saute onion on low in same pot on low for 5 to 7 minutes or until almost golden. Do not let brown. Add garlic the last minute and stir. Return lamb and lamb bones to the pot. Mix in dice tomatoes and cook down for 2 minutes. Add canned tomatoes, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp thyme and 1 tbls parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Close pot tightly and simmer on low for 2 hours stirring occasionally. Once ready, remove lamb bones. Spread pesto over lamb and serve. Serves 6
PESTO SAUCE
2 to 3 garlic cloves
3 tbls olive oil
24 basil leaves
In a mortar, combine garlic, basil and olive oil. Work until it becomes a thick paste. Can be made in a small food processor.
GURGUGLIONE
Gurguglione is a traditional side dish in Tuscany served with grilled meats and fish.
4 large mushrooms, cut into quarters
4 Roma tomatos, quartered
1 large zucchini, cut into 2 inch chunks
1 yellow squash, cut into 2 inch chunks
1 red bell pepper, cut into strips
9 to 10 cloves of whole peeled garlic
1/4 cup Olive Oil
1/2 cup Balsamic Vinegar
Sea Salt & Freshly Ground Pepper
Combine vegetables in one large mixing bowl. Pour in the vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper and let marinade for 30 minutes. Spread on deep sheet pan and roast in a 450 degrees oven for 20 to 30 minutes stirring once.
By Trish Wesevich
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 25
TASTEFUL CRE ATIONS | COOKING WITH TRISH
CRESPELLE
1 cup milk
3/4 cup Bona Dea Gluten Free Flour (or regular all -purpose flour)
2 eggs
1/8 tsp salt
butter
crepe pan
LAYERED CRESPELLE WITH TOMATO SAUCE, PROSCUITTO & CHEESE
Pour milk into bowl and sift in flour, whip in eggs and salt and mix until smooth. Heat crepe pan and add 1 tbls butter. Pour batter onto pan and tilt and rotate until batter distributes evenly. As soon as batter becomes set, slip spatula underneath, flip and cook the other side. Stack the crespelle on a plate with sheets of parchment paper between each one. Set aside. Makes 9- 12 pancakes or crepes.
FOR THE FILLING
1 - 14 oz can San Marzano diced tomatoes
3 tbls high quality olive oil
1 clove smashed garlic
2 tbls. finely chopped parsley
salt & pepper to taste
1 cup finely chopped proscuitto
1/2 cup shredded parmigiano reggiano cheese
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Make filling by heating olive oil lightly and stirring in crushed garlic in sauce pan. Cook until garlic is aromatic. Add the parsley and continue to stir. Pour in canned tomatoes with their juice and add salt and pepper. Bring to a low simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and until the tomato liquid has been reduced and has separated from the fat. Remove crushed garlic from sauce and turn off heat.
Lightly smear a round cake or pie dish with butter. Choose the largest crespelle to put on the bottom. Coat it thinly with the tomato sauce and sprinkle over it chopped proscuitto, grated Parmesan and grated mozzarella and cover with another crespelle. Continue on until you have used up all of the crespelle. Leave enough sauce to very lightly smear over the top and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese.
Bake on the uppermost rack of the oven for 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter without turning over. Allow to settle for several minutes before slicing. Serve with a green salad or chopped, raw vegetables.
By Trish Wesevich
adapted from Essentials ofClassic Italian Cookingby Marcella Hazan
26 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
• Each item is handmade to order
• Knife blades are made to our specifications by some of the finest bladesmiths in Japan
• Collaborative blades are all individually hand-forged using old world techniques by Japanese bladesmiths
• Wide selection of steels and finishes
• Handles, stands, and boxes are handmade by Gregg Salter at our workshop in Hawaii
• Custom steak knife sets can be ordered in any size set in either open drawer racks, gift boxes, keepsake
boxes or our display presentation boxes
• Specialize in using exotic Hawaiian Koa wood and other exotic hardwoods
• Known for its striking beauty and a feature known as chatoyance, a French word meaning 'cats-eye'
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• Custom steak knife sets• Carving sets• Chef knife sets• Individual chef knives for professional chefs• Simple hardwood handles or decorative individual chef knives for the home• Gifts or collectibles in gift or keepsake boxes• Cutting, end-grain chopping or serving boards in any size• Beautiful Hawaiian Koa wood display boxes for your special heirloom steak, carving or chef set or any other fine collectible item
Salter Fine CutleryHandmade Custom Creations for the Home and KitchenSalter Fine Cutlery • Waikoloa, Hawaii • www.SalterFineCutlery.comE-Mail: [email protected] • Tel: 808-883-0128
Three Little Pigs
At an age where many might consider
retirement, Chef Raymond Tatum is
working harder than ever. The long
days and intense labor it takes to
run a business almost single handedly can be
taxing, but Raymond takes it all in stride. His
masterful command of his ingredients turn
each plate into a work of art, and his devoted
fans fall in line to consume his creations. Like
any artist answering his calling, he has to cook.
And Austin gets to reap the benefits.
As the name suggests, Three Little Pigs is an
ode to pork. Delicious, natural, anti biotic and
hormone free pork cooked an
endless amount of ways. The
pig cheeks sell no matter what.
The pork belly tops “best of” lists
time and time again. Even the
more experimental cuts, like
intestine, are a thing of divinity
(for those brave enough to give it a try.)
Raymond is in the company of a gifted family
of cooks, pastry chefs, and an overachieving
son who shares his passion for Asian food.
The inclusion of Chinese black bean sauce or
piquant kimchi make each dish an amalgam of
the traditional and the future. Dishes are wildly
bold, yet refined, like the confit of pig cheeks,
using his own clarified pork belly fat. It’s not
often you’ll see twice cooked pork tongue on
a menu, and almost never out of a trailer. But
innovation is par for the course at Three Little
Pigs. And for the record, the pork tongue is
out of this world.
Beyond pork, the venison sausage and Brussels
sprouts are a crowd favorite. Chicken and beef
make appearances on the always changing
menu, as does the finest seasonal produce.
The gluten and meat intolerant will always
have options, too, as Raymond
will whip up something special for
those with dietary requests.
To simply state that this is the best
food coming out of a trailer doesn’t
do it justice.
Rather, it’s more apt to describe the euphoria
the eater feels when taking that first bite. The
sheer volume of flavor that is underscored by
incredible textures and colors create a perfect
symphony. Every single dish. Every single time.
Each offering is a stroke of genius, an edible
masterpiece.
BY KRISTIN SHEPPARD
ROVING APPETITES | THREE LITTLE PIGS
1209 Rosewood AveAustin, TX 78702
Hours:Tuesday-Saturday5:00pm-10:00pm
28 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Thinly sliced beef cooked on a flattop with lots of onions. A
roll that bites you back. A thick, warm layer of Cheez Whiz.
These are the components of an authentic cheese steak,
the sandwich that defines the City of Brotherly Love. The
ingredients sound simple enough, yet outside of Philadelphia, people
rarely get it right.
Way South Philly gets it right. Very right. Owner Willy Pearce recognized
a need in Austin and partnered with his brother to open the popular
trailer at the East Side Fillin’ Station at 6th and Waller. He worked on
his recipes and sourced his ingredients from vendors to get the right
components for a legit cheese steak. (We’re talking Amoroso’s rolls,
people.)
The Rocky themed menu includes vegan (The Adrian) and gluten free
(The Mickey) options, but most come for the succulent meat topped
with variations of toppings. Those who want a straight up classic should
order the Balboa. The Marciano is a pizza steak, another South Philly
favorite. The sandwich is topped with sharp provolone and tangy
tomato sauce and delivers a one two punch to your taste buds.
The spunky little trailer caters to both the lovers and the fighters. $59.99
buys Balboas, sides of tots, drinks and a wedding ceremony for two.
The entire Way South Philly staff is ordained so hungry patrons can
get hitched right at the trailer. Vow renewals are popular amongst
romantic hipsters, especially on Valentine’s Day, when they are free
with a sandwich.
Fighters can get in the ring with The Italian Stallion, a gargantuan
roll overflowing with steak, peppers, onions, mushrooms, tots and a
generous helping of Cheez Whiz. Competitors who can finish the six-
pound behemoth in 12 rounds (that’s 36 minutes) get to create their own
sandwich for the menu. Many have tried…two have succeeded. Pearce
recommends getting into fighting shape by training with The Lil’ Stallion,
which is huge in its own right. Eaters with a little extra stomach room can
finish with another East Coast delight: Tastykake Butterscotch Krimpets
and Peanut Butter Kandy Kakes.
The tastes are strictly Philadelphia with friendly service that is all Austin.
The trailer is covered with photos of people posing with iconic Philly
landmarks like the Liberty Bell or Rocky statue. Bring your own photo
for the truck and Willy will buy you a cheese steak!
1104 East 6th StreetAustin, TX 78702
Hours:Wednesday-Sunday | 11:00 am- 2:30 pm
5:00pm-10:00pm | Till 3 am Friday & Saturday
Way South PhillyBY KRISTIN SHEPPARD
ROVING APPETITES | WAY SOUTH PHILLY
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 29
SCAWTHORNE BY ANDREA HAUGHTON
BRANDON
When I was ten years old I had no clue what Kobe beef meant – I also
highly doubt that my parents were privy to that culinary knowledge.
My most adventurous meal was Frosted Mini Wheats in lieu of the
standard Grape Nuts. Talk about branching out. I’m confident that I am not alone
in picky-eater-ville. Most ten-year-olds spend their evenings in some digitized
land driving their parents postal by refusing their vegetables and noshing pea-
nut butter sandwiches whilst grumbling about not being in front of the boob
tube. Most ten-year-olds aren’t familiar with Kobe Beef, nor do they know what
basting is or know how to say – let alone make – Veal Saltimbocca.
Granted, I’m positive not all ten-year-olds are clones of me during my forma-
tive years; however, most probably can’t whip up crepes in their sleep either.
Which is why meeting Brandon Scawthorn, the now eleven-year-old culinary
prodigy and winner of Rachael vs. Guy Kids Cook-Off that aired this September
on Food Network, is such a colossal treat. This kid knows food, loves food and
cooks to impress. That his gregarious personality is as dazzling as his burgers
are juicy is the icing on the proverbial cake.
Brandon’s obsession with food was cultivated from infancy by his stay-at-
home-mom, Yelena, who was a commanding culinary prowess in her own
right. Cooking represents a bonding mechanism to mother and son alike and
Brandon credits his mother’s fondness of crepe-making with his first real cooking
experience. At first, he would pour the ingredients per his mother’s instruc-
tion into their respective bowls, stirring before they hit the hot pan. Eventually,
he was adding ingredients of his accord and delivering his own version of his
mother’s famous crepes to the family’s table. Pretty soon, he was legitimately
cooking full meals and manning the grill.
Though he spends time reading cookbooks and watching celebrity chef greats
Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay, Brandon predominately learns from simply
‘doing’ in the kitchen. An aspiring celebrity chef and TV host himself, Brandon’s
path to the Food Network competition began when his mom submitted pic-
tures of his food (unbeknownst to the little chef) not thinking that they would
be selected. Brandon, a gregarious life force, made it through to the semifinals
and flew to Los Angeles to cook for the very chef personalities that he had been
watching for years.
The premiere walk onto set blew the little chefs mind. “I couldn’t get over -right
at first - when I was about to walk in and, when we did, it was just so cool. The
experience was great and I had so much fun getting to cook without my mom
and doing it on my own and thinking about the groceries and the dishes I would
prepare and how to present them.” Exhibiting the makings of a fully colored chef,
Brandon rolled with the punches (or, more accurately, the knife wounds) not let-
ting his performance be affected by hiccups in the kitchen and literally poaching
eggs with one hand behind his back after sustaining a knife wound in the first
episode. Brnadon’s ability to maintain focus and employ his resilient ten-year-
old boy mentality are pervasive throughout his cook-scapades. While making
saltimbocca (something I only attempted at the young age of 27), he dropped
the veal into the pan from too high a height. The result was a bad burn that the
little chef is quite proud of when he looks upon the scar – and his knife wound.
Buttressing his resilience, Brandon’s creativity contributed to the coveted win.
His personal favorite dish was “Cloudy with a Chance of Mashups” episode when
the meat-loving Texan delivered a savory riff on cupcakes with a mini meatloaf
in place of the cake and mashed potatoes posing at the icing. “Everything was
seasoned to perfection, it was a real highlight,” Brandon recalled. Another high-
light of his nascent TV career came at a particularly chaotic moment during
filming when Brandon animatedly yelled, “that scarred the BAJABBERS outta
me” amidst whipped cream and a flaming pan. His verbal creation ultimately
became the top trend on Twitter.
Life has changed pretty dramatically for Brandon who, proscribed from reveal-
ing show specifics (despite being called out by a classmate for a commercial
segment spotting), was living a virtual double life. Brandon could not release
details of the show prior to episodes airing no matter how much his friends
might badger him; he stayed mum on the details. That is no small feat for a
human, especially a young human – and this kid, with a larger than life person-
ality, can talk. Since winning (with Korean-style ribs with Kimchi), in September
2013, the fifth grader has filmed his Foodnetwork.com mini series, Cooking in
the Fast Lane. Each episode, Brandon takes to the streets to find busy strang-
ers and subsequently prepare a flavorful meal in 20 minutes or under. Some
dishes he has showcased are a French Dip Sandwich with au jus - for none other
than Chopped Judge Scott Conant - and Salmon fried rice. Now, in addition to
cooking approximately 87 percent of his meals (including his school lunches
instigating much jealousy and salivation among his classmates) and racing
Banderlos with his father - Kevin, Brandon spends what little time not in the
classroom fielding interview questions and fulfilling spotlight cameos at events
around Central Texas. Standard modus operandi for an eleven- year-old who
can grill a better steak than Truluck’s and whose first dish to prepare was crepes.
Looking back, Brandon says, “It was just so cool to be there in this awesome
kitchen, with these TV chefs and cameras everywhere, cooking on my own and
then, I was kind of the winner.” Yes, little chef, not only were you the winner,
but the judges thought they were eating a tried and true chef’s vittles. Hat’s off
to the little chef and cheers to many years to come.
AF: What is your favorite thing to cook?
B: I am a Texas boy, we like meat – I love to grill and make BBQ chicken, along
with ribs and steak.
AF: How do you learn your kitchen repertoire?
B: I just kind figure it out. Sometimes, I watch TV shows but I learn a lot by trial
and error – like learning not to drop the veal from high heights into really hot
oil – that was rough.
AF: What is your all-time favorite food experience thus far?
B: My all time favorite experience has been the show. It helped that I won.
AF: This is the most important question a person can ever be asked…What would
be on your plate at your last meal?
B: A 20-ounce sirloin steak and a two-pound baked potato with green beans
and lots of bacon and a gigantic piece of garlic butter-salted bread. Make the
potato five pounds.
AF: What are you goals for the future?
B: I am still thinking about culinary school and thinking about going to college.
I just really want to be a chef. And not just any chef – I want to be a TV chef.
And sometimes a racer, but mostly a chef.
CELEBRIT Y SPOTLIGHT | EARLY MAKINGS OF A CHILD CHEFP
HO
TO
GR
AP
HY
BY
CO
UR
TN
EY
PIE
RC
E
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 31
In The Kitchen With
JANET
1. Organic Herbs de Provence (great on fish, like the recipe for Swordfish Spiedini by Giada de Laurentis) 2. Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 3.
Barefoot Contessa Family Style (my families' favorite meals come from this cookbook) 4. Williams Sonoma Goldtouch cookie sheets 5. Bacon
Cheeseburgers for breakfast...a family camping favorite 6. Viking gas grill...I cook outside all year long 7. Damn Delicious blog 8. French Press
Coffee: I like La Dolce Vita at Central Market 9. Microplane rasp grater
GET YOUR CHEF TOGETHER | IN THE KITCHEN
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
McCullar
32 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
McCullar
GET YOUR CHEF TOGETHER | IN THE KITCHEN
Get Your Chef Together
RORY
1. Malden Sea Salt, best finishing salt on the planet 2. ROAR Pinot Noir, tasty wine and the name’s divine 3. Salt and Time, to die for charcuterie
4. Quick Cuisine by Ann Clark, out of print foodie bible from Austin’s own Ann Clark worth tracking down 5. Marc Blackwell Glass Set, Beautiful
Glassware because you should always have something pretty in hand 6. Rablabs Tiger's Eye Bottle Stopper, sparkley stopper in the event you have
to cap off the night 7. Spicewood Vineyards Jalapeno Raspberry Mustard, so addictive that your sausage intake may soon skyrock
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
McNeil
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 33
Austin Cocktails
THIS IS JUST A
,
A RECLINER & A MOVIE.
But � comes w�Sweet potato fries with powdered sugar, honey mustard sauce,
House-cured bacon, peach chutney, arugala, pickled cucumber, & aioli on wheatberry crust bread
Tickets & showtimes @ TheMoviehouse.com | 8300 N FM 620, Austin, TX 78726
Makes the movies better.
SIP IT | AUSTIN COCKTAILS
Austin CocktailsWRIT TEN BY DANIEL RAMIREZ | PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE
DRINK IT UP WITH
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 35
THIS IS JUST A
,
A RECLINER & A MOVIE.
But � comes w�Sweet potato fries with powdered sugar, honey mustard sauce,
House-cured bacon, peach chutney, arugala, pickled cucumber, & aioli on wheatberry crust bread
Tickets & showtimes @ TheMoviehouse.com | 8300 N FM 620, Austin, TX 78726
Makes the movies better.
There is a known stigma to “ready to drink” cocktails. Among craft
cocktail makers and aficionados, they are routinely mocked. They
are typically low-cost, low-alcohol offerings that are relegated to
sales shelves and are purchased out of sheer convenience. Don’t have
the tools or ingredients available to make a decent margarita? Buy the
“ready to drink” bottle. Headed to float the river, but can’t stand beer?
Grab a “ready to drink” six pack. Want a cocktail but don’t want to spend
the money on premium ingredients? Here’s a “ready to drink” version
of your mudslide, daiquiri or piña colada. Even the calorie-conscious
have grabbed on to the trend. Want to drink conveniently, but without
high calorie count? Try this skinny version of “ready to drink” cocktails.
Too often, these beverages deliver a too-sweet liquid that is nearly
indistinguishable from syrup, and they broadcast all the respectability
of a malt beverage, which many of them actually happen to be. As
convenient as these beverages might be, they sacrifice quality in that
pursuit. But, since Austinites have made an art form out of transforming
SIP IT | AUSTIN COCKTAILS
what is convenient into what is exceptional – as they have done for
food trucks and boutique convenience stores – leave it to Austinites
to solve the problem of how to make a high-quality “ready to drink”
cocktail. Austin Cocktails, a new liquor brand that calls our city home,
has released four different bottles that not only break new ground for
the “ready to drink” market, but also shatter the stigma.
With cocktails that showcase the summer season, when lighter
cocktails are called for to combat the harsh Texas sun, Austin Cocktails
delivers all of the flavor and finesse of a crafted cocktail in a single
bottle. Utilizing nearly flawless filtered vodka as their base spirit, they
have even managed to keep the calorie count under 100 calories per
serving, which is 33% less than a single beer. There is no longer a need
to hunt the ingredients down for a mojito, margarita or a fruit and herb
cocktail before heading to a day on the boat or a film at Cinema East.
Instead, it’s ready-made and bears no resemblance to the lower-forms
of “ready to drink” bottles.
But the real difference is what’s inside. The Vodkarita is exactly what
one would expect of a margarita – the unofficial cocktail of Texas –
refreshing citrus, a hint of agave and a hint of sweetness. Meanwhile,
the Cucumber Vodka Mojito, Austin Food Magazine’s favorite, trades the
orange notes for that of fresh herbs and the clean flavor of cucumber.
Chilled and poured into a martini glass, this could very well become
the beverage of choice for the more refined cookout. And with their
Tea Twister, a light take on a grown-up Arnold Palmer, along with
their Paradise Found, which brings coconut and citrus together with
a deft touch, Austin Cocktails may have just given “ready to drink” a
better public image and a drink that is worthy of bearing the name,
Austin, on its label."
FOR MORE INFORMATION
512.660.0607 | [email protected] | austincocktails.com
SIP IT | BYEJOE SPIRITS
A NEW SPIRIT THAT WILL LIVEN UP YOUR LIQUOR CABINET
After 15 years living abroad in China, Texas born Matt Trusch has brought an ultra premium Chinese spirit brand called byejoe spirit of china to the US. He is now pioneering a modern revolution in Asian-Fusion mixology that cannot be ignored — especially during happy hour.
byejoe is artfully distilled in the East using the finest red sorghum, and skillfully refined and filtered in the West using revolutionary patented technology. The result is an alluring, ultra premium spirit that’s smooth and sophisticated for contemporary tastes.
byejoe is very mixable and versatile, and is quickly being adopted by discerning consumers. byejoe can be enjoyed in its signature cocktail – the byejoe original Chinese lychee martini, as well as other exotic fusion cocktails such as the Chinese mojito, Chinese caipirinha, Shanghai mule and Saint Joe. Enjoy byejoe as you like it – on the rocks, in shots, or your favorite fusion cocktails, and get ready to experience the new spirit of china.
RED LANTERN1.5 oz byejoe dragon fire1 oz roses lime0.5 oz grenadineTop with ice & sprite
For more information, go to
byejoe.com
WRIT TEN BY HAYDEN WALKER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BECKY KIT TLEMAN
LETS TAKE IT OUTSIDE | TRAVAASA FARM
38 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
This year, Travaasa Farm celebrates its one year anniversary by hosting a
special tour of their very own farm led by farm manager Kim Grabosky.
Kim delivered the grand tour revealing all of the breathtaking changes
that have taken place at the farm since it broke ground last June. The
resort’s impressive farm grows a myriad of crops, including summer
squash, cucumbers, green beans, melons, basil, okra, sweet potatoes,
greens and more.
Travaasa Farm is a quaint 3.25 acre working farm located at Travaasa
Experiential Resort in the Austin hill country. The farm uses all organic
practices to supply food for the resort’s kitchen. They also offer classes
to the resort’s guests, covering topics like seeding and identifying edible
plants, as well as composting, and chicken care.
The farm features more than 80 varieties of vegetable crops, perennial
fruit orchards, native pecans, edible flowers, and medical herbs.
Additionally, the farm includes a beautiful 360 square foot greenhouse,
a 2,300 square foot activity garden for hands on growing classes, and
a 680 square foot chicken coop with more than 100 laying hens of
fivedifferent breeds, two roosters and an equine center which is home
to seven horses.
Travaasa Experiential Resorts
512.258.7243 | travaasa.com/austin
13500 Farm to Market Road 2769, Austin, TX, 78726
Travaasa Farm
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 39
The tour was followed by an
extravagant lunch, with produce
and poultry grown on the farm.
Farm Manager
Kim Grabosky
Chef Ben Baker
The restaurants desserts and
pastries use fresh ingredients
directly from Travaasas farm.
800 West 6th St. | Austin, TX 78701 |512.436.9633 | TAPASITAS.COM
tapas • cocktails • espresso • cigars • dessert • wine
“Meet me at #MulberryAust in”
h a p p y h o u r s p e c i a l s • D i n n e r • s n a c k s • B r u n c h • c u r at e D W i n e & B e e r • o p e n l at e
3rd & nueces • mulberryaustin.com
When one decides to venture out to dine, whether it’s with the
family, coworkers or just by the onesie, there are so many
choices in the greater Austin area. We particularly enjoy a
restaurant with a breathtaking view of the sunset and the option to
dock a boat. That’s what initially piqued our interest in Shore Club
at Volente Beach, but we stuck around for the extraordinary menu,
cocktails and the live music.
It’s the year 1900 and stylish socialite Ella Wooten marries a Goodall,
whereby she moves into a home in downtown Austin. With her
decadent sense of class and design, Ella hires the contractor who
built the Biltmore Mansion in Asheville, NC, to reconstruct the Greek
revival mansion, and a designer by the name of Neiman Marcus to
fully redecorate the home. In today’s currency, Ella would have a paid
approximately one million dollars on the decorating.
Flash forward to 2013…This home, after changing hands a few times
(including serving as an alcohol recovery center for some years)
has been remodeled and voila—Hotel Ella is born! Upon entering
the boutique hotel, I was impressed with the wrap-around veranda
whose plush seating was beckoning me to sit a spell, then the gorgeous
midnight blue couch in the lobby (which surely belongs in my living
room), and then impressed with the friendly staff, including Luca, the
rooms manager who greeted us upon arrival.
TR AVEL | HOTEL ELLA: GOODALL'S
Walking through Hotel Ella, which has a B&B feel to it, we were able
to admire much of the original woodwork, an original fireplace and
the newly-added pool, which serves as the inviting centerpiece. The
main house boasts five junior suites upstairs and a few deluxe lofts,
but the guest rooms in the adjacent building have patios that open up
to the pool. Surrounding the pool and throughout the grounds, you’ll
find sculptures designed by Charles Umlauf of Austin’s popular Umlauf
Sculpture Gardens (including everyone’s favorite sculpture by the pool
of UT alum, Farrah Fawcett).
All of these aesthetics are fabulous; however, what truly made our visit
unique was the friendly, enjoyable staff at Hotel Ella. Jay, the bartender
imported from Sonoma, gave us a taste of their favorite cocktails and
Texas craft beers paired with the bar’s cheese plate. Sitting in the bar,
you can just picture powerful Texas politicians dining the evening away
with the Goodalls a century ago.
General Manager Steve Shotsberger gave us a glimpse into the busy
preparations for that evening’s wedding, which included a DJ and
plated dinner in a beautiful space (which stays quite busy). This 47-room
member of Small Luxury Hotels stands its ground in this prestigious
old downtown location. Think of Hotel Ella as a luxurious oasis amid
the bustling streets bordering the UT campus.
WRIT TEN BY MARIKA FL AT T
CULINARY PHOTOS BY COURTNEY PIERCE
HOTEL ELLA:
A VIEW FROM INSIDE THE MANSION
44 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Our new friend, Jacob, and his fellow bellmen, make your visit relaxing
from start-to-finish, as the hotel is 100% valet so you drop your car off
and the hotel’s two luxury vehicles can shuttle you where you need to
go downtown. What a bonus in downtown ATX!
So whether you visit to dine at the delicious onsite Goodall’s restaurant,
are a history buff and want to view Goodall’s old gun collection and
the original mansion furniture, or you simply want to be still by the
serene inner pool, you’re in for some real treats and eats at the majestic
Hotel Ella.
Marika Flatt has been travel writing since 2002, simultaneously
running literary PR agency, PR by the Book. Flatt was named Travel
Editor of Austin Lifestyle magazine in 2013. Other publications Flatt
regularly contributes to are: FamilyTravel.com and her Flattlands blog.
Additionally, she’s had five travel features in GoodHousekeeping.com.
HOTEL ELLA
800.311.1619 | hotelella.com
1900 Rio Grande, Austin, Texas 78705
TR AVEL | HOTEL ELLA: GOODALL'S
Farm green beans, fromage blanc, strawberr ies, pickled ramps,almond paper, di l l v inaigrette
Roasted whole caul i f lower, smoked paprika, whipped goat cheese, roasted garl ic
Buttermilk fr ied chicken, green tomato rel ish, poblano cream
Goodal l 's l ist of amazing craft cocktai ls compliment thespectacular menu
Executive Chef, Nick Nelson & Chef de cuis ine, Cory Untch
46 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
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ANDIAMO RISTORANTEF eature
Dish | Cacciucco
TAKE A TRIP TO ITALY BY WAY OF NORTH AUSTINWRIT TEN BY MARIKA FL AT T
PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE
Dish | Vitel lo Rosmarino
Dish | Raviol iai Funghi
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 51
With a story such as this, touting a young female entrepreneur, I quickly
emailed friends, saying “let’s go!” Our table of four was treated to fabulous
customer service during our delicious 2.5- hour dinner.
Every dish in Andiamo is served as it would be in Italy. Marcone insists
on only the best and most authentic Italian. She visits farmers markets
twice a week to ensure Andiamo has the freshest ingredients from local
vendors. Marcone’s own family recipes inspire many of the dishes and
the extensive variety of the menu proves her dedication to providing
seasonal plates that are true to her family and her homeland. When you
visit, make sure to try these culinary creations:
Italy is on my bucket list so the name of this north Austin restaurant
caught my attention. The Italian word “andiamo” means “let’s go!” This
authentic Italian eatery boasts the freshest ingredients and traditional
family recipes on their website, andiamoitaliano.com.
Owner Daniela Marcone did not disappoint! With her thick Italian accent,
she visited our table several times throughout the night, explaining what
each dish was and where the recipe came from. As she brought out the
hot homemade artisan bread, I melted. Infused with spinach and cheeses,
the soft bread was perfecto to kick off this little visit to Italy.
On their website, you can learn the story of how this little restaurant came
to be in the hands of Marcone. A native of Naples, Italy, Marcone did not
move to Austin with intention of becoming involved in her current food
business. Not sure of whether to stay in Austin or return to her homeland
of Italy, Marcone went to try Andiamo, came to know the owner and
quickly found a home within the restaurant. Marcone started working as
a hostess, where her charismatic personality shined, and soon worked
her way up the ranks to a manager where she learned the ins and outs
of restaurant business. Years later, Andiamo was in danger of closing
and when the owner needed to sell it, the young woman bought it,
committing to share her family’s traditional Italian dishes with the Austin
community. With Marcone’s purchase and revamp of the restaurant,
Andiamo is now a one-of-a-kind authentic Italian getaway, bringing a
piece of Italy to Austin.
FE ATURE | ANDIAMO
Dish | Insalata Di Finocchio
FE ATURE | ANDIAMO
52 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
• Salsiccia della casa This appetizer is their house-made sausage, packed
with flavor, and paired with pickled peppers. So savory!
• Involtini di Melanzane Consider this a healthy cheese stick! This
appetizer is breaded eggplant (how can you go wrong?) stuffed with
mozzarella and ricotta, covered with a light tomato basil sauce.
• Ravioli ai Funghi Don’t let the funghi turn you off! Each bite is a
testament to their fresh ingredients. I chose a house-made ravioli off
the special-of-the-day menu and practically licked my plate clean.
• Filetto alla Griglia If you’re not a pasta fan (I don’t understand these
people but know they exist), you can’t go wrong with this grilled beef
tenderloin topped with a gorgonzola cream sauce.
Andiamo’s wine list highlights small vineyards from the hills of Italy. You
might not be able to pronounce the name of the wine, such as Napolini
Montfalco Rosso, but you won’t have any problem enjoying it! Andiamo
hosts monthly wine dinners the last Tuesday of every month at 7 p.m.
For $50 per person, you can experience authentic Italian food perfectly
paired with Italy’s finest wines. Wine dinner evenings include four to-die-
for courses matched with four wines of a certain line. Seating is limited
for these events so make sure to make your reservations for the next
wine dinner on July 29 in advance.
Finish off the dinner with a decadent dessert, such as their cheesecake,
and a shot or two of Italian espresso and you’re sure to be getting in
touch with friends again to say “let’s go” to Adiamo Ristorante again. Make
Andiamo your destination for an genuine Italian eating experience. Ciao!
FE ATURE | ANDIAMO
Dish | Rigatoni al la Boscaiola
Dish | Dolce Neve Gelato
Dish | Insalata al l ’Uovo
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 53
54 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Each wine served from the Cosimo Maria Masini l ine is grown with a biodynamic approach on 30 to 50 year old vines. Great care is taken to preserve the vines and soi l , and harvests are done by hand.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLTON STARK
APRI IL VINO
This Summer, Andiamo Ristorante featured Italian winemaker
Francesco De Filippis from the Cosimo Maria Masini Winery as part
of it’s Monthly Wine Dinner Series. De Filippis made the journey
from Tuscany to share his wine with guests as they enjoyed a four-course
Italian meal with Cosimo Maria Masini pairings.
"Born and raised in one of the most beautiful places in Italy and perhaps in
the world, Sorrento with its wealth of wonderful scents remains forever in
my heart. Like any kid growing up in the countryside, my experience starts
playing with the soil, helping in the garden and taking care of the animals.
At age 14 to 18 start my real career path, going to work during the summer
and other holidays in a small farm that produced biodynamic citrus, wine,
oil and bred dairy cows, in fact my little compensation were just products of
the farm. From this first experience, I realized that my path was traced and
I have not stopped even for a day to take care of organic and biodynamic
farming. After graduating in agriculture and various specializations in this
field, I have worked in several organic and biodynamic farms in Italy and
abroad, but I stopped in Tuscany and holding Cosimo Maria Masini just to
realize my dream in the production of biodynamic wines."
- Francesco De Filippis, Italian Winemaker
For more information on the Cosimo Maria Masini Winery, visit
cosimomariamasiniwines.wordpress.com
The 100% biodynamic winery revital izes the soi l so that i t becomes reactive and receptive for each harvest to pro-duce pure wines with a bouquet of aromas and f lavors.
I tal ian winemaker, Francesco De Fi l ippis
de
lish
Ve
spa
iod
elis
h
56 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
hard to not go dip in it the robust stocks). I’m in foodie heaven;
a place where food is revered and celebrated.
Boasting a cooking philosophy that would earn approval from
Italian grandmothers, Samson, and Chef de Cuisine Alex Deen,
rely heavily upon locally sourced produce and meat. Vespaio
has focused on farm-to-table dining for almost two decades,
well before the fad swept Austin. Dubbed “Texas Italian,” the
menu is rooted in Italian cuisine, but the menus are curated
for the community that supports it. Recipes are authentic to
local ingredients while adhering to the basic rudiments of Italian
flavor profiles and sauces. Everything about Vespaio exudes love
of quality, love of community, love of simplicity and elegance.
“We service two restaurants with one kitchen and make nearly
everything from scratch. Every part of ingredients are used,
nothing is wasted. The kitchen produces the majority of dish
components from scratch, breaks down whole animals in-house
– utilizing all scraps, and makes all pastry, pasta, cheese and
bread by hand daily. Specials are conceptualized pursuant
Walking the Ryan Samson, executive chef of Vespaio
since 2002, line is phenomenal. With one kitchen
servicing both Vespaio and Enoteca Vespaio, the
efficiency and order that yield hundreds of plates daily is a
true pleasure to witness. But it is the love of ingredients and
commitment to quality echoed by every visible part of the
kitchen that is so magical.
Everywhere you look, there is a titillating in-house process being
executed. In one glance you can see meat being ground down
and sausages being cased. In another, a fresh lamb quarter is
being broken down. Ravioli dough is being rolled, then filled with
a fresh scallop mixture. Macarons with fresh, light meringue are
undergoing delicate assembly on a baker’s tray. Pasta sheets
are put to press. A fish is expertly filleted. Pounds and pounds
of fresh produce have been washed and prepped, providing
beautiful pops of color. Stocks are simmering, scenting the air.
Cheese is curdling. Free range chickens, which will eventually
make their way onto made-to-order risotto, are dancing in a
rotisserie. Freshly baked bread permeates the nostrils (making it
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 57
to day’s bounty. It’s an education in sourcing, sharing space,
efficient work and organization, cooking. In this kitchen you
learn how to do a lot on the line,” says Samson. It is a kitchen
that allows people to grow along the line, a prime example is
Alex Deen who has worked his way from pantry to line cook to
sous and is now Chef de Cuisine.
The no-waste approach inspires creativity in application and
results in 800 pounds of tomatoes being sun-dried to yield
‘Tomato Conserva,’ subsequently saved for fall when local
tomatoes are out of season. Meat scraps and prosciutto ends are
confited or ground to go into Bolognese sauce. The dishes and
flavors are comforting, complementary and nostalgic. Somehow
the food parlays an elegance and inspiration that roots itself
deeply in fundamentals. The specials on shooting day were no
exception.
The ravioli, stuffed with scallop and robiola osella cheese, was
served in a velvety, decadent sea urchin butter and studded with
blistered Juliet tomato. It was the single best bite of pasta I’ve
had in recent memory. The risotto, made to order, was delicate
and creamy. Fresh summer corn added a subtle sweetness that
perfectly complemented piave cheese and expertly roasted
heirloom chicken perched upon the risotto bed.
The sweet finishing touch of the experience was ‘Cioccolata’
from Pastry Chef, Sandi Reinlie, that was every ounce as
decadent as it was beautiful. The softness of the caramel milk-
chocolate semi fredo, was delightful texturized by delicate cocao
nib cookies, cocoa crumble and wonderful cashew truffe torta.
The just-sweet-enough dessert showcased Reinlie’s penchant
for chocolate creations and creative design.
Every dish that we were lucky to indulge in reaffirmed Vespaio’s
continued commitment to quality. Here’s to the next 16 years
guys, we simply cannot get our fill.
WRIT TEN BY ANDRE A HAUG HTON
PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE
Why it is so good
Italian food is comfort food. It’s filling pastas, cheesy pizzas, and
crisp salads. Walking into Mandola’s Italian Market is a completely
unique experience on its own. The owners, Damian & Trina
Mandola having Sicilian roots, take real pride in the authenticity
of their product. Offering an open environment: the kitchen
can be seen through a half wall in the center of the restaurant.
From the red brick walls, to the old family photos hanging
throughoutyou’ll feel cozy as soon as your arrive. Mandola’s
is not only a restaurant, it also serves as an imported goods
market (selling dry pastas, bottled sauces, olive oil, ect.), a small
delicatessen, and a pastry shop offering housemade gelatos,
breads, and cannolis.
What we liked
Bruschetta alla Checca: These four huge slices of garlic toast
topped with marinated cherry tomatoes will make you wonder
why you don’t eat this everyday of your life. This appetizer is
simplicity at its finest moment.
Chopped Italian Salad: A bright and flavorful creamy Parmigiano
dressing mixes happily with fresh mozzarella, salami, beans,
artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, olives, red peppers, fennel,
cherry tomatoes, and pickled onionsall on top of crisp greens.
Spaghetti & Meatballs: Their marinara sauce is an old Sicilian
family recipe that has indeed stood the test of time. It is topped
over huge meatballs that sit on a mound of delicious spaghetti
pasta. This classic dish is not to be ignored here at Mandola’s.
Parma: This pizza is simple, elegant, and the reason why you’ll
forever want to get arugula on all your pizzas. All pizzas at
Mandola’s are Roman style and this particular one is topped with
mozzarella, provolone, prosciutto (as if it wasn’t already delicious
enough), a lemon vinaigrette, and huge shavings of Parmigiano.
Vegetariano: Do not fret vegetarian friends, Mandola’s has
something delicious for you as well. The Vegetariano is the
veggie sandwich king: adorned with its thick slices of grilled
eggplant, zucchini, onions, and portobello mushrooms. It’s
served on hearty multigrain bread, with fresh mozzarella with
artichoke spread, pesto mayo, and red pepper relish. Even if you
do call yourself an omnivore, it is sandwich worth devouring.
WRIT TEN BY LEL A JA M AL ABAD
PHOTOG R APHY BY HAYDEN WALKER
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60 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Try the Quattro Formaggi, an absolute sine qua non for any
cheese lover; topped with mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmesan
and creamy goat cheese. Also, go for the iconic Salsiccia, topped
with Italian sausage, smoked mozzarella, and cherry tomatoes.
Finish the feast with the Olive Oil and Rosemary Cake
accompanied with pistachio gelato. Top it all off with a mélange
of refreshing handcrafted cocktails. The aRoma Americano is the
signature cocktail and is made with Campari, Carapano Antica,
Orange and Soda. Of course we had the Italian Mule as well, sort
of a gesture of respect if you will. aRoma also has an impressive
selection of beer and wine, suitable for any palate.
WRIT TEN BY HAYDEN WALKER
PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE
ARoma Italian Kitchen & Bar, located next to the Broken
Spoke at The 704 Apartments, features “genuine”
Neapolitan Pizza, meaning that it uses real San Marzano
tomatoes that grow on the volcanic plains on the south side
of Mount Vesuvius. The ‘homemade’ mozzarella and dough
consists of wheat flour, natural Neapolitan yeast, salt and water,
kneaded and formed by hand without the help of rolling pins
or machines. Although they break tradition with 12-inch rather
than 8-inch pizzas, the pies are baked in a wood-fired brick oven
shipped directly from Italy, for 90 secs-2mins.
What to eat
Start the meal with Grilled Calamari which is tossed in frisee,
grapefruit, red onion, pistachios and EVOO and a tomato and
basil bruschetta. It’s a rather enjoyable mix of flavors and
refreshingly light, as all good appetizers should be.
Don’t be shy on the main course. The authentic Neapolitan style
pizza is a bonafide element to the integrity of the restaurant.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 61
62 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
As a kid I refused to eat pizza. Something about it turned me
off. I remember [naively] thinking that Ray’s Pizza in New York
City was the best pizza ever made during one of my first adult
visits in 2004). Sadly, this statement is not an exaggeration. Commonly
known as one of the crappy pizzerias enjoyed predominantly by late
night drunks with either no choice or no discern, Ray’s Pizza was easily
the best pizza that I had eaten. A trip to Italy later that summer fully
corrected my pizza aversion and showed me that will be no shortage
of pizza in Heaven. Since then, I’ve overcompensated for time passed
by gorging on as much pizza as humanly possible. Except, my city did
not have much in the way of pizza offerings.
I suppose in some ways it is poetic that I did not gain true appreciation
for pizza until 2004. Until recently, Austin’s better options were
mediocre and limited. Amidst raging conversations (and raging
drivers) on the mass emigration to Austin, a positive side effect is often
overlooked when dealing with soaring prices, endless construction
and parking lots for roads. The city’s culinary scene is exponentially
expanding and increasing in quality, a phenomenon made possible by
an influx of culinary diversity and a foreign and domestic crop of rock
star chefs. This phenomenon is precisely the reason that pizza lovers
now have something they can actually sink their teeth into. Though
Austin will never be the prided epicenter of the pizza world (Hey, we
have breakfast tacos and BBQ on lock down - even the greatest city
in the world can’t have it all), in the past decade we have gained a
procession of laudable pizzerias crafting pies authentically according
to style. These pies use quality ingredients, impart tremendous flavor
and inspire nostalgia. Moreover, Austin’s pizza lovers are no longer
held hostage to the Papa John’s style thin crust or regular. We
have pizza makers coming from all different genres. Starting with
Home Slice Pizza, more and more shops have popped up offering
eaters satiation – a void that for so long was unfulfilled.
WRIT TEN BY ANDRE A HAUG HTON
PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE
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Flying under the radar is a bit of a task for Home Slice Pizza. Their
hospitality, scrumptious New York slices and authenticity have
earned them a solid reputation attracting throngs of Austinites
and tourists alike. How can you not enjoy a place that hands out
Smarties after all?
In under a decade, Home Slice Pizza has evolved into an Austin
institution. Representing her youth Rochester and adult years in New
York City, while simultaneously incorporating Texas’ hospitality, were
Jen Strickland’s building blocks for the now legendary Home Slice
Pizza, founded in 2005. Home Slice Pizza is about stellar customer
service, good food and great wine and beer. No frills, just great
conversation and even better experiences. Authentically sized NYC pies
dress paper plates, begging to be folded, wafting garlicky steam. Freshly
baked dough scents the air from under the “In Crust we Trust” sign
perfectly complementing the dark yellow, red and white circus-esque
interior. This is the Home Slice that everyone knows. Lesser known?
Their attention to the stuff that washes down the pie: specifically, beer
and wine. Their unique beverage program is designed and curated
to compliment the food, enhancing the richness of certain cheeses
and showcasing the robust flavor of Home Slice’s tomato sauce and
meatballs.
MUST ORDER: Eggplant Pie & Sausage, Ricotta & Roasted Red Pepper
512.444.7437 | homeslicepizza.com
Monday - Thursday 11:00am - 11:00pm | Friday - Saturday
11:00am - 12:00am | Sunday 12:00pm - 11:00pm
1415 S Congress Ave, Austin, TX 78704
WRIT TEN BY ANDRE A HAUG HTON
PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE
Via
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64 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
What happens when two Detroiters combine passion for
pizza with entrepreneurial dreams? Mouth-watering glory.
How did these pizza gods descend upon our sleepy city?
“It’s not complicated, we like pizza - so we opened a pizza truck. Do
something you love and do it well,” says Zane and Brandon Hunt,
owners of Via313.
Via313’s pies are a testament to that sentiment. Each square, silver pan
that is pulled from the oven encases the best of both worlds – pizza
crafted by bakers. Via313’s Detroit-style pies are perfect. The crust,
made in-trailer from cold-fermented dough, is thick, airy and chewy
affording delightful texture from the crunch provided by a caramelized
cheese coating that spans all four edges of the pie. This buttery square
is topped with two streaks of fresh crushed tomato sauce, drizzled after
baking, topping the melted cheese. Each bite is a baker’s triumph and
pizza lover’s delight. Perfection does not stop at the crust. Classically
meat heavy, toppings are simple, carefully sourced and high-quality
meats and veggies.
Sheer coolness of Zane and Brandon aside, these guys love the
community and have an informed passion of pizza that I feel lucky to
witness first-hand. The simplicity of quality ingredients and mastery
of the baking process brings foodies out in droves. Including this one…
MUST ORDER: The Detroiter and the Cadillac.
512.939.1927 | via313.com
Monday - Wednesday 5:00pm - 12:00am | Thursday - Saturday
5:00pm - 2:00am | Sunday 5:00pm - 12:00am
1111 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702
WRIT TEN BY ANDRE A HAUG HTON
PHOTOG R APHY BY COURTNE Y PIERCE
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 65
Owners, Zane & Brandon Hunt
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66 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Introduced by Italian shipbuilders, New Haven style pizza is the
birthplace of American pizza. Characterized by its distinct crust,
which is traditionally cooked to the point of char, the thin crust
exhibits a distinctive snap and crunch unique to New Haven.
Originally from New England, Michael Dinsmore was raised with an
appreciation for authenticity and tradition. His introduction to the
technical aspects of New Haven style pizza, ignited a passion for sharing
the methods, quality and flavors when he conceptualized Salvation
Pizza in 2006. Salvation Pizza, Austin's only New Haven style pizzeria
makes all elements of their pizza from scratch in strict adherence to
classic technique. Pizzas are cooked in on a custom-fitted granite stone,
using only traditional wooden peels in a gas-fired oven and quality
ingredients. Dinsmore’s vision for Salvation Pizza was and continues
to be deeply rooted in his upbringing and immersion in a culinary
world striving to preserve tradition through consistency and quality
techniques.
MUST ORDER: White Clam Pizza - Whole Baby Clams, Bacon, Lemon
512.535.0076 | salvationpizza.com
Monday - Thursday 11:30pm - 10:00pm | Friday 11:30am – 11:00pm
Saturday 12:00pm – 11:00pm | Sunday 4:00pm – 10:00pm
624 W 34th St, Austin, TX 78705
WRIT TEN BY ANDRE A HAUG HTON
PHOTOG R APHY BY NICOL AI MCCR ARY & COURTNE Y PIERCE
Michael DinsmoreOwner
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68 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Gaining its name from the authentic buffalo
mozzarella, Bufalina offers East Austin a fresh taste
of classic pizza. Although the owner Steven Dilley
claims to have no experience in the restaurant business,
his solid work is noticeable. He folds in and out from the
kitchen to tables, assisting wherever needed and he likes
it that way. “I like that we have enough staff to allow me to
move around a bit,” Dilley states. You notice the passion
he has as he discusses the authentic low dome oven that
he had imported from Naples.
The pizza only cooks for about 60 to 90 seconds at over
900 degrees Fahrenheit. It's shocking how this short
cooking time is still able to leave you with a deliciously
soft crust, loaded with rustic flavor. “People are always
a bit shocked when they take a bite and the crust isn’t
crunchy,” he says with a laugh. The standout of the meal
was the brussel sprout pizza, topped with smoked ham,
serrano pepper, mozzarella, and a scallion pesto. Each
slice delivered outstanding flavor boasting the well-cooked,
locally sourced ingredients. “Obviously I think everyone
needs to try the margherita,” Dilley says. The deliciously
sweet tomato paired well with the basil and mozzarella, a
classic Neapolitan style pie that remains a favorite among
diners.
512.524.2523 | bufalinapizza.com
Wednesday - Sunday 5:30pm - 11:30pm
1519 E Cesar Chavez St, Austin, TX 78702
WRIT TEN BY TAYLOR BUTLER
PHOTOG R APHY BY JENNY SATHNG A M
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 69
THE SWEET SPOT | DOLCE NEVE
Dolce Neve is situated in a charming bungalow off of south First Street. Their patio makes for an inviting place to take in a beautiful day with a cup of gelato and espresso. A visit to the shop is a one of a kind experience that is a must for all Austinites.
The owners, Leo Silvestrini, Francesca Ferrarese and Marco Ferrarese moved here from Italy to pursue their dream of opening a gelato shop in the United Sates. The trio is clearly passionate and enthusiastic about providing authentic gelato to the Austin area. In preparation of pursuing their new business Francesca studied the basics of gelato making in Italy at Carpigiani University that specializes in gelato.
She fine-tuned the art while working at the renowned Gelateria De' Coltelli in Pisa Italy. At Gelateria De' Coltelli Francesca learned to incorporate organic ingredients and utilize techniques that result in an extremely light and rich gelato. Unlike many gelato shops that use a premix, Dolce Neve is committed to using high quality organic ingredients and locally sources those ingredients when possible. As their tagline exclaims “we do it in front of everyone”, customers can watch the decadent handmade gelato made in-house. What is gelato? Gelato is a healthy treat made of whole ingredients to include milk, sugar, egg yolk, cream and ingredients to add natural flavors. It contains a mere 5-6% fat content making it a healthier treat compared to ice cream.
Dolce Neve rotates their traditional flavors and changes their seasonal flavors frequently. They use seasonal ingredients to add creative flavors such as honey and goat cheese in combination with more traditional gelato offerings such as stracciatella and hazelnut. The seasonal flavors are often a result of experiments and feedback from their customers. In addition to gelato they also serve sorbet, gelato on a stick, gelato sandwiches, custom gelato cakes and they brew espresso with beans from a local roaster.
Dolce Neve has a mobile gelato cart and they are available for catering events from weddings to children's parties.
Dolce Neve gelatoWRIT TEN BY AMY DROHEN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY COURTNEY PIERCE
Co-ownersLeo Si lvestr ini & Francesca Ferrarese
70 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
THE SWEET SPOT | DOLCE NEVE
ZUCCOT TOFor recipe vis it
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ThEcUpCaKeBaR BY ME AG AN VITEK
An individual sized cake, that nestles perfectly in the palm
of ones hand, topped with a fluffy swirl of icing and dusted
with sprinkles, has the unique ability to paint a smile across
anyone's face - regardless of their age. In a town where
an infamous, larger-than-life cupcake sits atop a airstream
trailer, its evident cupcakes have become part of Austin's
ever growing food culture.
What is it about these miniature cakes, baked into the cup-like shape that induces such a
response? For one, it could be the personal-sized nature of a cupcake, causing one to feel
as if it were made for only them to consume. For another, it could be the delicately iced and
dressed cake itself, making one contemplate whether to eat it or simply admire its beauty.
For many, it could be the nostalgia that emerges when one lays eyes on a cupcake, causing
special childhood memories to flood the mind. While the exact answer may differ from per-
son to person, the excitement without a doubt exists.
With a treat that causes such a response, we knew we had to share The Cupcake
Bar's interesting take on a classic dessert. The Cupcake Bar, an Austin
based cupcake catering company, has harvested the hap-
piness of a cupcake and united it with the freedom of
choice and creativity. At a variety of events, guests get
to build their own cupcake, with the help of a cupcake
bartender. Standing in front of the cupcake bar, peeking
wide eyed at the array of toppings, cupcake flavors, filling
and icing choices, one can't help but to feel like a kid again.
When Lori Schneider found herself looking at cupcakes as an
experience, rather than the sweet finish to a meal, she knew she
had to take her idea and scream it from the tip top of Austin's hills.
After working in the catering and event industry and owning her
own catering company, Schneider soon realized that her passion
was cupcakes - and the indescribable effect they have on people.
When someone requested a creative dessert bar for one of her cater-
ing events, Lori inadvertently created the first cupcake bar. After seeing
the excitement of the guests, and getting calls for more cupcake bars,
she knew she was onto something. Soon, Schneider dropped full service
catering and The Cupcake Bar was born.
"We are always going to love cupcakes," says Schneider. To many, the rise in cupcake popu-
larity in Austin is seen as a food trend - one that was sure to dissolve. Just over six years later,
Schneider believes cupcakes aren't going anywhere.
THE SWEET SPOT | CUPCAKE BAR
72 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
THE SWEET SPOT | CUPCAKE BAR
Its hard for one not to feel like a kid in a candy shop while standing
in front of the bar. One's excitement about a cupcake is soon united
with the ability to create a personalized cupcake masterpiece. Not only
is the cupcake small enough to feed one, its also designed to reflect
the desires of the creator. The cupcake bar allows you, even if for an
instant, to travel from reality to a moment where anything is possible.
The process starts with a "naked" cupcake - a cupcake free from fill-
ings, icing, toppings and the crinkled cupcake wrapper. According to
Schneider, a wrapper-less cupcake makes it much easier and more fun
to eat. Next, you choose a filling, which is injected inside the cupcake
before your eyes. Some of the filling options include whipped cream,
chocolate whipped cream, raspberry, strawberry, caramel, salted cara-
mel and even a sugar free whipped filling. After your cupcake is filled,
you choose an icing (or icings for those who
want more than one). As with fillings, the icing
flavor options are limitless - from her butter-
creams - vanilla, chocolate, salted caramel,
chocolate peppermint to name a few - to
her signature pink cream cheese, anything
is possible. After the cupcake is dressed with
icing, next come the toppings. Jars filled
with candies, cookies and sprinkles line
the bar, allowing one to stay simple or go
all out with a little bit of everything. With
a shake of "disco dust," or edible glitter,
the naked cupcake is dressed to one's
liking. Reflecting not only your desired
flavors and textures, but also arguably
your personality.
The Cupcake Bar caters to a wide array
of events. While weddings have, for
the most part, been the most popular
type of event, corporate events have been book-
ing like crazy, says Schneider. In addition to weddings and corporate
events, you can also find The Cupcake Bar serving cupcakes at baby
showers, birthday parties, bat mitzvahs, bachelorette parties and any
other occasion where cupcakes are a necessity. The Cupcake Bar has
dished out cupcakes in the ACL VIP area for years, as well as been part
of many SXSW events - including Google's takeover of Rainey Street.
This year, Schneider is looking forward to some exciting SXSW events,
most of which are still in the planning process.
As cupcake lovers ourselves, we know that cupcakes have the amazing
ability to transform a smile into full-fledged laughter when experienc-
ing The Cupcake Bar. Top it with disco dust, and a delicious piece of
edible art emerges.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 73
Austin is now an undeniable Texas barbecue powerhouse. In the
past few years, Austin favorites have staked a claim at or near
the top of every “Top 10” list, as a direct result of what can only
be called “The Great Barbecue Boom of 2009-2010.” New masters
and returning veterans of the art ushered in a new era in Austin. The
city’s offerings, which had only shown up sporadically in surveys of the
Texas barbecue landscape, firmly established their place in the Texas
barbecue conversation. And, save for a few relocations and expan-
sions, the new status quo has had connoisseurs and amateurs alike
lining up throughout the city and debating the merits of peppery bark
and pronounced smoke rings.
A little over a year ago, however, a new endeavor emerged on the
scene. Micklethwait Craft Meats arrived in much the same way as oth-
ers had done during the boom. Serving by-the-pound meats out of a
repurposed trailer home, the story sounds like a familiar one, save for
the fact that, rather than born from Texas barbecue lore or lineage, the
idea forMicklethwait Craft Meats came from a trained chef who had
been seasoned in the Vespaio kitchen. Tom Micklethwait, the namesake
behind the business, took his ideas to the hungry masses in late 2012,
serving artisanal sausages to complement the standard beef, pork and
poultry fare that are expected of a barbecue joint.
In the beginning, the sausages were an undisputed draw, garnering
praise for the use of duck, lamb and turkey in their creation. Word had
spread about the innovative takes on smoked sausage and it gener-
ated steady anticipation for what Micklethwait would think to combine
and case next. The other items on the menu were delicious, but the
Austin market for great smoked brisket is more than a little crowded,
and didn’t bear the name Mueller or Franklin.
By March of 2014, however, the Micklethwait team was featured in the
SXBites trailer park on the strength of their sausage. And it is from the
corner of Red River and Cesar Chavez, not their more permanent loca-
tion on Rosewood, that a simple brisket taco raised a few eyebrows.
The taco, complete with garnishes and more than a little attention to
detail was savory, smoky, delicate and awesome, all at once. Offered
solely for the convention, the reviews were superlative and prompted
further investigation to determine if it was the balance of ingredients,
the familiar delivery vehicle or the meat itself that warranted such
high marks.
With all confidence, it can be said that the meat was the magic and
continues to be so at Micklethwait Craft Meats. Imagine, if you will,
A SeAt At the tAbleWRIT TEN BY DANIEL RAMIREZ
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAYDEN WALKER
UP IN SMOKE | MICKLETHWAIT CRAFT MEATS
that each bite of brisket contained within it all of the elements that
make up great barbecue – spicy bark, subtle smoke and a moist yet
firm tenderness. Such is the case for a brisket that has now eclipsed
the other menu items, which is no small feat considering that the beef
rib, upon first and second tasting, immediately dethroned the rest of
Austin’s beef rib purveyors for best in the city.
The cherished smoke ring on both the beef rib and the brisket is so
deep that it nearly paints the entire cross-section that revered and
much-desired shade of pink. The smoke somehow never overpowers
the beef flavor or the bark spices. This, then, is the mystery and the
majesty of Micklethwait Craft Meats, since the flavor of any given piece
of brisket tends to move along a spectrum, from smoky to beefy to
satiny and back. The brisket, all by itself, commands that Micklethwait
deserves a seat at the table of Texas barbecue legends, if it doesn’t
deserve the throne outright.
But it doesn’t end with the beef. The creative sausages, too, are also
still on offer, as are a variety of homemade delights, including jalapeño
cheese grits that are a meal unto themselves and a moon pie that
greatly improves upon the standard. For all these reasons, we think
that the Austin and Texas barbecue communities need to make room
for Micklethwait Craft Meats. And you should, too.”
AF: So what's a big green egg?
KR: I don't think I can talk to you anymore.
Oh crap, we just sat down!
Because he's an legit guy who genuinely likes engaging with people, James
Beard recipient Kent Rathbun forgave my Green Egg ignorance and stuck
the interview out. I did my best to hide my wonderment from this highly -
and worldly - acclaimed culinary mastermind. Through the nerves, I hear:
"My calendar scares the hell out of people." I can't believe my name is on it.
Nerves are soon mitigated because Rathbun is a seriously awesome person
to chat with. The chef, who masterminded the sophisticated approachabil-
ity of Abacus and Jasper’s, less formal Blue Plate Kitchen and successful
Elements line, has a central goal among his eateries: inspiring customers
to say “Holy shit, I’ll want more of that!.” Rathbun’s goal is to leave cus-
tomers craving food - not because of microscopic portions, but because
the components inspire both taste and nostalgic sensations.
“I stopped cooking for myself a long time ago – when I was young, I
cooked over the top food and learned that people, including myself, more
often like frill-less food.”
That’s not to discount the ingenuity and creativity that pulse through the
renowned Abacus’ kitchens. Rathbun studies dishes that resonate and ele-
vates them through excellent sourcing, quality ingredients and innovative
products. Definitively more “traditional,” Jasper’s and Blue Plate Kitchen
are geared to favorites; though still focus on integrity of ingredients.
The chef draws creativity and inspiration from travel where he can absorbs
a multitude of ideas and confirms accuracy of techniques essential to
regional dishes.
“I love global cooking, but I want to represent these dishes accurately –
do them justice. So I look to the experts wherever they may be. There are
so many peasant or street foods that can be elevated and that’s what I like
to bring home to my restaurants.”
Fusion food is not something that you will find on this chef’s menus –
whatever the cuisine, he remains true to its origins. Rathbun strives to
understand the baseline of foods, but insists that if you can’t get the basics
right – you can’t tweak it. He isn’t in the business of bastardizing dishes to
showcase the latest fad. Though he likes the creativity in technique and
flavor profiles that young chefs exude nowadays, appreciates molecular
dining and experiencing the latest gastro-technique fresh from the lab,
Rathbun’s cooking has steadfastly been executed authentically and with
purpose.
CHEF ' S INNER CIRCLE | KENT RATHBUN
CHEF KENT RATHBUN:CHEF, GENIUS, TRAVELER, BIG GREEN, EGG PARTNER
BY ANDREA HAUGHTON
“Food should always be purposeful. Unpurposeful food should not be on a
plate.” His restaurants boast dishes that adhere to the technical roots and
every element on the place is there with the purpose of elevating the dish.
And diners appreciate him for it, coming back more and more and always
leaving wishing they had a bit more.
In his home kitchen, Rathbun’s approach is no different – food is sourced
or shot personally.
“I shot my first rabbit as a child with my grandmother, I grew up eating
from the land.” He also learned culinary diversity at a young age in the
presence of two foreign exchange students. This childhood adherence
to quality, resource and authenticity provided a wealth of knowledge and
inspiration to young Rathbun.
Rathbun, who taught himself to cook out of necessity and tradition,
became a chef at 21 with no formal training, joining the ranks of untrained
chef gods. He credits exposure to fantastic chefs and products in various
stints at four and five-star restaurants with his ability to excel on his own.
Mentors also exposed him to the art of finesse that has earned the chef
praise for years over.
“You have to walk the line, know the sauce needs a pinch of salt or lemon,
steep fresh herbs to elevate a dish and these little things make the food
great. I have been known to walk the line and say throw in three onions –
it is the difference between a good meal and a great meal. It is the finesse
that makes you say, “Holy shit, I’ll never forget that!” It is the magic ele-
ment that makes you crave the food and leaves you wanting more. You
always have to leave them wanting more.”
CHEF ' S INNER CIRCLE | KENT RATHBUN
Q&A with Kent Rathbun
Q& A WITH KENT RATHBUN
AF: What influences have you brought back from your travels?
KR: My travel was kicked off during a stint at the Melrose Hotel when the
executive chef asked if I had a passport. No? Well, we are going to need
to have that expedited – and he sent me off to Thailand – a cuisine which
claims the most significant influence on my personal style of cooking. But
I bring back the basics from all of my travels.
AF: What is your favorite thing to cook with?
KR: I just turned Tyson onto to Royal Red Shrimp – I cannot get enough
of these clean and sweet shrimp from Florida. Royal Red Shrimp are fished
4,000 feet deep – it is almost a shame to cook them. They are a dream
in ceviches.
AF: What’s your favorite meal?
KR: It’s been the same for 30 years. Ribeye or strip steak, seasoned very
well, cooked over wood. Corn on the cob, with a lot of butter. Fresh veg-
gies. A fantastic baked potato with lots of good stuff on it – start everything
with a Caesar salad and end with something cherry or caramel.
AF: Why is quality important to you?
KR: I grew up in Kansas City and my Dad was friends with a meat com-
pany guy (Corey Savella). He would just walk in and we had access to
restaurant meat.
AF: What is one of your favorite food memories?
KR: On my fifth birthday, my dad said “what do you want for dinner?
Resoundingly, I said “steak!” We went to Corey’s every year on my birthday.
I got to skip school every year on my birthday and he would show me off,
he was such a proud dad, and we would go to breakfast at Mohawk, then
to the meat company. On my fifth birthday, Corey asked me how old I
was. “Five.” Then he would give me a five-dollar bill. Those are the things
that drive me and my brother.
AF: Why do you cook?
KR: I think cooking for people is a lovely thing to do. I cook on my day off
because I simply love to cook. Food is such a glue for people.
AF: Tell me about the Elements line?
KR: I had two business partners in Texas, one unfortunately passed away
and the other was Bill Hue. Bill said we need to brand something – said I
needed to “me” more than I do. He wanted to bottle some items that we
had become known for – I was hesitant at first because I thought that we
would not be able to retain the quality of the items. We couldn’t use fresh
herbs, but that was how we discovered herb resin. I remember the BBQ
sauce had cilantro resin that would go into it and it tasted like spring. We
ended up being quite pleased with the test products and snuck them into
the restaurants to see what impact they would have on our diners. We
used them for a week – everything was accurate – they color, viscosity,
flavor – no one knew they were eating a sauce wee had bottled. We knew
we had a quality product.
AF: Who was your mentor?
KR: I was blessed to work under and with some incredible chefs. Jim Mills
(Houstonian Hotel) used to be at Mansion at Turtle Creek. He taught me
the finesse of food and the art of managing and meeting people.
AF: What do you consider the finesse of food?
KR: You have to walk the line, know the sauce needs a pinch of salt or
lemon, steep fresh herbs to elevate a dish and these little things make
the food great. I have been known to walk the line and say throw in three
onions – it is the difference between a good meal and a great meal. It is
the finesse that makes you say, “Holy shit, I’ll never forget that!” It is what
makes you crave the food and leaves you wanting more.
AF: What excites you most about cooking?
KR: We take ordinary food and make it unordinary. I love that.
AF: What issues, if any, have you experienced with your recent expan-
sion to Austin?
KR: We were surprised by the number of dissenters and people who
equated us with Dallas. I said look – at the end of the day we are here
to do business in your community, we are hiring Austinites and we enjoy
being part of this great community. We want to give you good food in
a good atmosphere and help enhance the lives of our patrons and staff.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 79
A L A CARTE | COLD BREW COFFEE
COFFER COLD BREW COFFEE
Coffer, a handcrafted, locally bottled and brewed cold brew coffee
is the newest addition to increasingly competitive, yet popular trend
among coffee drinkers. Each sip of the naturally carbonated brew
is aromatic, with invigorating flavor; perfectly fitting for the hot
summer months Austinites regularly endure.
Developed by owner and creator Kevin Chen, the naturally
carbonated cold brew coffee is not limited to only one form of
consumption. Mix it with your cocktails, try it with leftover vanilla
ice cream, or pop the cap and savor it straight from the bottle. It’s
perfectly suited for nearly everything in between.
WRITTEN BY KARA HARDIN
KOHANA COLD BREW COFFEE
Made from superior, single origin organic beans, Kohana Coffee’s shelf stable cold brew concentrate
is slow roasted in small batches, then steeped in a proprietary cold brew process for a rich, mellow
flavor. With infinite options for use (most mix it with milk or water, but coffee popsicles are a summer
favorite) and four new varieties launching this summer in Mocha Java, Decaf, French Vanilla and
Espresso flavors, there’s much to look forward to from this local favorite.
BUSY METROPOLITAN CITIES LIKE AUSTIN ARE FILLED WITH THEIR SHARE OF COFFEE DRINKERS. Most Austinites make their coffee the old
fashioned way using a coffee maker. Some of us even prefer grinding our own beans while inhaling that rich aroma we all savor. Almost nothing
beats a cup of hot coffee, especially when the weather gets a bit nippy. We have a couple of months until the cold weather officially arrives,
and not all Austinites have the ability to exercise patience in waiting for the temperatures to drop. Some of us want to enjoy our coffee without
absorbing all the heat. Fortunately, Austin is home to several amazing cold brew coffee makers that allow us to sip our cup of joe, without
burning our tongues. Here are a few of our favorites...
HIGH BREW COFFEE
High Brew is the creation of an idea that was sparked in 2012 while
David and Elizabeth Smith took their family on a amazing journey,
island hopping through St. Thomas and Grenada. Wanting to stay
alert during long nights of sailing, they discovered cold-brewed
coffee. Discovery turned in to creation as they realized their new
passion would become their lively hood. High Brew is a proprietary
blend of Aarabica beans from Central and South America, roasted,
ground and filtered to a smooth finish using cool temperatures,
extracting naturally smooth flavors. The result is an ice cold, milky-
sweet beverage, perfect for any time of day.
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 81
Te
ch
Tast
efu
l
DINING OUT? LOSE WAIT.
Ever walked into a crowded restaurant, learned that there is a 45 minute wait,
and promptly walked out? Us too. Say goodbye to the wait and hello to NoWait.
The free wait listing app allows hungry guests to search local dining spots by wait
time, add their name remotely to a restaurant’s real time list and track their place
in line – enabling them to simply show up precisely when they’re table is ready.
Available in thousands of casual dining restaurants nationwide, including many
in the Austin area such as South Congress Café, The Park, and Third Base Sports
Bar, the app is available for both Android and iOS.
Launched in 2010 in Pittsburgh, NoWait unveiled its mobile app nationally earlier
this year. Already, it is used in major national chains such as First Watch, Texas
Roadhouse, On The Border and Buffalo Wild Wings, as well as popular independent
hotspots like Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group's Eataly, Jose Garces' Village
Whiskey, Marc Vetri's Pizzeria Vetri and Hubert Keller's Burger Bar. Regularly seating
more than 5 million diners every month, NoWait has seated more than 50 million
diners to date. You can be next.
For more information, visit nowait.com, follow @NoWaitApp and like it on
Facebook at facebook.com/nowaitapp.
BY TAYLOR BUTLER
82 TUSCANY IN TEXAS Austin Food Magazine
Brick Oven Restaurant
PIZZA · PASTA · PARTIES
Downtown South Arboretum 12th & Red River Brodie & Slaughter 183 & Braker Lane 477-7006 292-3939 345-6181
SAVOR OUR FL AVOR | MUST VISIT
CAFE BLUE
A celebration of coastal cuisine from around the world. Immerse
yourself in our version of a tropical paradise, while dining on fresh
seafood, aged steaks, Chef Ben’s famous clam chowder, unique
burgers and sandwiches, and one of the best wine lists in the city. Of
course, don’t forget our homemade key lime pie.
CafeBlueTX.com | 512.366.5230
Located @ Hill Country Galleria (near Dillard’s) Bee Cave, TX 78738
FAVOR
With Favor you can get anything you want in Austin delivered.
Torchy's, Juice Land, or anything else your heart desires is just a tap away.
For more information visit AskFavor.com
BRICK OVEN RESTAURANT
Known for their award winning pizzas, Brick Oven has been serving
Italian food in Austin since 1982. All three locations are locally owned
and operated, and have a little something for everybody. Pizza, pasta,
gluten free options and a great variety of wines are just the beginning
of what Brick Oven has to offer.
SINGING WATER VINEYARDS
You will enjoy a visit to this scenic Hill Country vineyard and winery
located up in the hills just south of Comfort on the banks of Bruins
Creek. The tasting room, a rebuilt 100 year old Hill Country barn,
greets you as you drive up to the winery. Park in the shade or tie your
horse up to the old recycled wagon tailgate/sign out in front - and
make yourself at home. A tour and tasting in this relaxed country
atmosphere is sure to lower your stress level! Bring your picnic lunch
and relax on the winery porch with a glass of award-winning Singing
Water wine.
Thur - Sat 11-6 | Sun 12-5 | Mon 11-6
830.995.2246 | singingwatervineyards.com
316 Mill Dam Rd.Comfort, TX 78013
austinfoodmagazine.com FALL 2014 83
There’s a reason groups of women flock to Fredericksburg.
Actually, there are several. On-and-off Main Street shops full of
couture, modern and vintage home décor, art galleries and more
are only the beginning. Relaxing spa treatments. Delectable gourmet
cuisine. Sweet creations from our bakeries and award-winning wineries
to tour. Live music and spectacular views from one of our 350+ Hill
Country B&Bs, guesthouses or inns. One tip: Save room for memories!
V i s i t F r e d e r i c k s b u r g T X . c o m | 8 6 6 9 9 7 3 6 0 0
Unofficial birthplace of the annual
Girlfriendsfest!
Get FREE Official Visitor
Info Kit
22-AustinLifestyle-June2014-9x10.875-Girlfriends.indd 1 4/8/14 2:10 PM
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It’s no joke. Meals ready on time, everytime.(And don’t call me Shirley)
Surely, you’re joking!Dinner is ready on time?