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A lifetime of learning each and every way around muscle and bone is an art, a science and requires a sensitivity that only in Butcher is born. But like any skill set, we can always gain more from sharing what we know. Australian Butcher is exactly that: a journal written for butchers about butchery. The stories within these pages are meant only for YOU.

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  • A U S T R A L I A NB U T C H E R

    The Guilds Guide to Beef Veal Goat Lamb

    I N S I D E Meet The Maker / Short Ribs #1694 / The Guild

    ISSUE No. 02

  • As butchers, were proud of our skills. And those skills arent for the fainthearted. A lifetime of learning each and every way around muscle and bone is

    an art, a science and requires a sensitivity that only in Butcher is born. But likeany skill set, we can always gain more from sharing what we know. Australian

    Butcher is exactly that: a journal written for butchers about butchery not justanother pretty piece of marketing gear for your shelf or meat counter the

    stories within these pages are meant only for YOU.

    Within this issue, youll discover some of the specifics of smoking meat(right down to what type of wood does what), plus we meet the Knoll family of

    Barossa Fine Foods a dynasty of passionate smallgoods makers who have been producing award winning goods since 1924... and they quite literally have

    their love of the meat game seared into their flesh.

    We also head to Bingil Bay in northern Queensland to take a look at where theaction happens the slaughter floor of an abattoir. Abattoirs are incredibly specialplaces to a butcher. You are the fulcrums of the meat industry the link betweenfarms and communities. What happens at an abattoir has a huge impact on thequality of the meat you break down, value add and provide to your customers.

    Take this journal, share it with your fellow butchers and pass on what you know this industry is a special one, and its future relies

    on the brotherhood of butchers banding together!

    T h e G u i l d s G u i d e T o B e e f , V e a l , G o a T & l a m B

    Australian Butcher

    N O 2 2 0 1 4t

    Carve it up,A B G

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    A U S T R A L I A N B U T C H E R / /PThe Guilds Guide to Beef, Veal, Goat & Lamb

    Meat & Livestock Australia Limited (MLA)Level 1, 40 Mount StreetNorth Sydney, NSW 2059

    T. +61 2 9463 9333 F. +61 2 9463 9393&butchers@mla.com.au

    CopyrightThis publication is published by Meat & Livestock Australia

    Limited / ABN 39 081 678 364 / (MLA). Care is taken to ensure the accuracy of information in the publication; however, MLA cannot accept responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of the information or opinions contained in the publication. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions concerning their interests. Reproduction in whole or in part of this publication is prohibited without the prior written consent of MLA. 2014 Published May 2014.

    * 4 4 / / 2202-

    Journal EnquiriesConnaugh Sheehan

    &csheehan@mla.com.au

    Artwork MASH

    W. mashdesign.com.au

    Illustration Andy McIntyre

    W. littlebones.com.au

    Paper StockRevive Laser

    W. spicers.com.au

    PrintingSouthern Colour Pty Ltd

    W. southerncolour.com.au

  • C o N T e N T s

    m e a T T u T o R i a l 6 Where there's smoke...

    m e e T T h e m a K e R 1 0

    T h e G u i l d 1 8 O{OO

    C u T o f T h e Q u a R T e R 2 0 Short Ribs #1694

    m a s T e R C l a s s 2 2 Short Ribs #1694

    s h o P T o P l a T e 2 8 Texas BBQ Beef Ribs Teriyaki Beef Short Ribs Sticky Asian Beef Short Ribs

  • A U S T R A L I A N B U T C H E R / /P

    Historically, smoking was a way of preserving food in the absence of refrigeration, however modern technology has changed all this and its now possible to have fresh BOEAQSFTFSWFENFBUTBMMZFBSSPVOE4NPLJOHJTOP longer prized for shelf-life but for its flavour profiles,

    appearance and point of difference.

    Where there's smoke...m e a T T u T o R i a l

    Smoking is essentially a gaseous marinade in which hundreds of wood based chemicals work together to contribute the flavour, texture, surface finishes, colours and preservation we associate with our favourite smoked meats. There are two techniques within smoking hot and cold and the two tech-niques have dierent aims.

    Before any smoking occurs meat should be allowed to air-dry long enough to form a 'tacky' skin, known as a pellicle. Pellicle plays a key role in producing excellent smoked items. It acts as a kind of protective barrier for the smaller or more delicate cuts of meat, and also plays an important role in capturing the flavour and colour of smoke.

    Properly dry your cuts by placing them on racks or by hanging them on hooks or trees. It is important for air to be able to flow around all sides. To encourage pellicle formation, meat cuts should be air-dried uncovered, in the refrigerator or a cool room. The exterior of the item must be suciently dry if the smoke is to adhere.

    Temperature of the wood then determines the flavour profiles in the smoke and ultimately the flavour of the end product. The liquid molecules in wood that hold flavour have dierent boiling points and the wood must reach the correct temperature to turn the liquid into gas (smoke). Once boiled, the flavour can travel and permeate meat.

    The goal of hot smoking is to cook and pasteurise meat. It is done at higher temperatures (70C to 80C) than cold smoking but for shorter periods of time. As you would expect, the higher temperature hastens the formation of colour and surface finish. Hot-smoking works well for red meat because the high temperatures and elevated humidity tenderise tougher cuts by melting and dissolving collagen fibres.

    The flavour profile of hot smoking tends to be vanilla and clove as these flavour compounds within wood have higher boiling points and need the higher temperatures to be released from the wood.

    h o T s m o K i N G

    C o l d s m o K i N G Cold smoking takes place between 20C to 30C and

    at these temperatures the focus is more on drying out and preserving. Depending on individual operators, cold smoked products are cured first with curing salts and then smoked. The salts prevent the growth of bacteria, and combined with the smoke, inhibits spore growth. Some contemporary cold smokers dont cure at all because they use refrigerated smokers. These modern smokers have lessened the length of time meat is cold smoked for from days or even weeks down to hours.

    Cold smoking brings out unique flavour notes of toast, earth, spice and, of course, smoke.

  • t (00% 800% tWhen smoking, the wood should be considered as much an ingredient as the meat, spices and brines.

    800% */5&/ 4 * 5 : 0' ' - "7063

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    Grapevine -JHIU Golden brown Among the lightest of smoke types

    4USBX -JHIU Yellow to golden brown &YDFMMFOUGPSEFMJDBUFNFBUT

    "TI&MN$IFTUOVU -JHIU Yellow Typically blended with other hardwoods

    5FB-FBWFT -JHIUUPNFEJVN Yellow to light brown Often used for light smoking is Asia

    Alder .FEJVN Yellow 4PNFUJNFTCMFOEFEXJUICFFDI

    Apple .FEJVN Yellow to light brown Best of the common fruit woods

    $IFSSZ1FBDI .FEJVN Golden yellow to brown Blended with other hardwoods

    Corncob .FEJVN Weakly yellow 1SPEVDFTQSPOPVODFEFBSUIZBSPNBT

    Heather .FEJVN Yellow to golden brown Very unusual aroma - very floral

    .BIPHBOZ .FEJVN Golden brown Blended with other hardwoods

    5IZNF4BHF .FEJVN Weak 3FDPNNFOEFEXIFOMJHIUMZTNPLJOH

    Walnut .FEJVN %FFQZFMMPXUPCSPXO 1SPEVDFTSBQJEDPMPVSEFWFMPQNFOU

    -JOEFO .FEJVN Yellow 1PQVMBSJO&BTUFSO&VSPQF

    #JSDI8JMMPX1PQMBS Variable Variable Blended with beech

    Hickory Bold %FFQCSPXOUPZFMMPX 1MFBTBOUMZTXFFUBSPNB

    1FDBO Bold %FFQZFMMPXUPCSPXO 4XFFUBSPNB

    -BVSFM Bold Weak %JTUJODUJWFnBWPVSSFDPNNFOEFE for light smoking only

    3PTFNBSZ Bold Weak 4MJHIUMZSFTJOPVTTPSFDPNNFOEFE for light smoking

    Beech Bold Bright yellow Often blended with oak or alder

    Juniper Bold %VMMCSPXO *OUFSFTUJOHBOEJOUFOTFBSPNB

    $BNQIPS-BVSFM Very bold %BSLZFMMPXUPlight brown &YPUJDBOEJOUFOTFBSPNB often used in China

    Oak Very bold %FFQZFMMPXUPCSPXO 1SPEVDFTBWFSZEFOTFIJHIRVBMJUZ smoke; a very popular choice

    .FTRJUF Very bold and pungent Yellow 4NPVMEFSTWFSZIPUXJUIBOJOUFOTF aroma and pungent flavour

    4PVSDF /BUIBO.ZISWPME$ISJT:PVOH.BYJNF#JMFU ( ."3$)1 ).0%&3/ *45 $6 *4 */& : 5IF"SUBOE4DJFODFPG$PPLJOH7PM5FDIOJRVFTBOE&RVJQNFOU

  • 09

  • A U S T R A L I A N B U T C H E R / /P

    4NBMMHPPETEPOUKVTUSVOJOUIF,OPMMGBNJMZTCMPPEoUIFZ are literally branded with them. When Franz Knolls four sons

    had the Barossa Fine Foods logo tattooed on their, er, rumps it was testament to the familys proud heritage of crafting traditional

    and innovative smallgoods. Here, Franz opens the door to a complex, yet complimentary, business model involving four

    generations who focus on good food.

    O{OOT h e G u i l d

    In an industry driven by trends, you have a firm hold on your heritage as smallgoods craftsmen. How do you blend old with new?

    My family has been manufacturing meat since 1924. When I bought a retail shop in Adelaide Central Markets 22 years ago, I thought I had