authentic victorian fashion patterns: a complete lady’s wardrobe
TRANSCRIPT
CopyrightCopyright©1999byDoverPublications,Inc.Allrightsreserved.
BibliographicalNoteAuthenticVictorianFashionPatterns:ACompleteLady’sWardrobe,firstpublishedbyDoverPublications,Inc.,in1999,isaselectionofpatternsfromthefollowingissuesoftheVoiceofFashion:Vol.V,No.18,Fall1890;Vol.V,No.19,Winter1890—91;andVol.V,No.20,Spring1891—allpublishedbyGoldsberry,Doran&Nelson,Chicago,Illinois.
Vol.VII,No.28,Spring,1893;VolVIIINo.29,Summer1893;Vol.VIII,No.32,Spring1894;Vol.IX,No.36,Spring1895;andVol.X,No.39,Winter1896—allpublishedbyGoldsberry&Doran,Chicago,Illinois.
LibraryofCongressCataloging-inPublicationData
Harris,Kristina.
AuthenticVictorianfashionpatterns:acompletelady’swardrobe/KristinaHarris.
p.cm.
SelectedpatternsfomvariousissuesoftheVoiceoffashionpublishedinthe1890s.
9780486132822
1.Dressmaking—Patterns.2.Costumes—UnitedStates—History—19thcentury.I.Title.
TT520.H2781999
646.4’7821—dc21
99-045684
ManufacturedintheUnitedStatesbyCourierCorporation40721707www.doverpublications.com
TableofContents
TitlePageCopyrightPageINTRODUCTIONGENERALDIRECTIONSDOVERBOOKSONFASHION
INTRODUCTION
“Thesocietywomanmusthaveoneortwovelvetdresseswhichcannotcostlessthan$500each,”authorandsocialreformerJamesMcCabereportedinthelate19thcentury.“Shemustpossessthousandsofdollars’worthoflaces....Walkingdressescostfrom$50to$300;balldressesarefrequentlyimportedfromParisatacostoffrom$500to$1,000....Thentherearetravelingdressesinblacksilk,inpongee,velour,inpique,whichrangeinpricefrom$75to$175.ThenthereareeveningrobesinSwissmuslin,robesinlinenforthegardenandcroquetplaying,dressesforhorseracesandforyachtraces...dressesforbreakfastandfordinner,dressesforreceptionsandforparties....”Noneofthegarmentscouldbeready-made,andallcamefromafineAmericandressmaker,ifnotaEuropeancouturier.
Buttheaverage,middle-classAmericanwomancouldrevelinnosuchluxury.Whenevershecould,shepinchedherpenniesbymakingherownunderwear.Thisnotonlysavedherfromhavingtopayadressmakerforthetask,italsoprotectedherfrominferior,ready-madeunderclothes.Shemighteventrytosewsomeofherownclothing—butwiththechildren’sclothestosew,plusamyriadofotherpressinghouseholdduties,sheusuallyleftthemakingofherwardrobetoadressmaker.
MostAmericanwomenbroughtfashionplates(fromoneofthemanymiddle-classfashionmagazinesavailablebythe1890s)toherlocaldressmaker;thedressmakercustomizedachosenoutfitaccordingtoherskillsandhercustomer’sdesires.Shecouldtheneitherdraftherownpattern,usethesewingpatternherclientpurchasedthroughafashionmagazine,orconsultadressmaker’sjournallikeTheVoiceofFashion,whichprovidedscaledpatternsthatcouldeitherbecopiedexactly,oradjustedtothecustomer’swants.Iftherewasnodressmakerintown,orifaladycouldnotaffordone,hernextbestsourcewasalocalseamstress—ahousewifewhotookinsewingparttime.
Formanywomen,onenewdressaseasonwasallthatcouldbeafforded;somewomenfeltfortunatetobeabletohaveonenewdressayear.Itwasfabric,notlabor,thatwasusuallythemostexpensivefactorincreatinganewdress.In
1890,TheAmericanWomannotedthatwhilesilkswerestillthefashionablefabrics,theywould“notcomeintotoogeneralusebecauseoftheirhighprice—theaveragebeing$7.50ayard,andfromthisupwardindefinitely....”Eventhestaunchlymiddle-classSears,RoebuckandCompanycatalogfeaturedasateendescribedas“anearapproachtothesilkgoodsinappearance”thatwasstill20¢ayard.Thismayseemaffordable,butwhenoneconsidersthatanaverage1890sdresscouldrequirefouryardsfortheskirt(and,ifithadlargesleeves,anotherfourtosixyards,plusadditionalyardagefortherestofthebodice),it’seasytoseehowthefabricforasinglebasichousedresscouldrunupwardsof$2to$3.
Ofcourse,fabricwasjustonepartoftheexpense.Facings,linings,interlinings,andboningwereallnecessaryaswell.AccordingtoTheAmericanWoman,highlydecorativebuttonswerenotonlyusedasfasteningsonsomedresses,butwerealso“thefavoredtrimming...andoftencomeashighas$50forasetofsixbuttons.”
Finally,laborhadtobeconsidered.Forabusyhousewife(stillusingsadirons,ahand-crankedwashingmachine,agasorwoodenstove,andotherarchaichousekeepingdevicesusedprevioustotheadventofelectricity),itwasusuallyworthwhiletohiresomeoneelsetodotheactualsewing.Still,itwasacostnottobetakenlightly.Onemagazineexpressedgreatworryoverthenewestfashionof“befrillingandbefurbelowing,”hopingthatitwould“notkeeponincreasing;thelaborandconsequentexpenseofthedressmakingmustnaturallyincreaseatthesamerate.”TheVoiceofFashionitselfnotedthatwhile“thereisagreatappearanceofsimplicityinthemakingupofspringdresses...theactualcostofthesemoderndressesissomethingbeyondwhathadbeeneventhoughtofhitherto...andissometimes...asmallfortune.”In1891,HannahDitzler,amiddle-classIllinoian,wrotethatherseamstresschargedher$6inlaboraloneforaplainwoolensuit.
Aready-madedressfromoneofthenewmailordercatalogscouldcosthalfofwhatadressmaker-orseamstress-madedresswould.Itwouldnot,however,fitthefigurelikeasecondskin,whichwasanecessityinVictorianfashions;therefore,evenalessexpensiveready-madedresshadtobealteredforfit.Becauseoftheseconsiderations,thejobofmanydressmakersandseamstresseswasoftentore-makeoldergarments(forwhichpatternsstillcameinhandy).
Still,eventhoughamoderatedressmaker-madedressranabout$10(whichwasabouttheaveragemiddle-classman’sweeklysalary),thewomanofthe1890srequiredmorethanjustafewgarments.Victoriandressingwas,afterall,allaboutappearingappropriateduringeverysituation—andVictoriansocietyhadfairlystrictrulesaboutjustwhatwasappropriate.
hadfairlystrictrulesaboutjustwhatwasappropriate.
Beginningthemomentshewokeupinthemorning,everyVictorianladyrequirednotjustanightgown,butalsoawrapper.Wrappers(orteagownsastheyweresometimescalled)werewornintheboudoir,tobreakfast,andduringprivateleisurehours.Afterbreakfasting,theproperAmericanwomanthenchangedintoamorningdress,whichvariedfromanyothertypeofdressprimarilyinitssimplicityindesign.Thedress’hemcouldbeshort,butoftentouchedthefloorinfrontandatthesides,withatrainnolongerthansixinchesintheback.
Awalkingdresswasrequiredforwalkingintotownorshopping;thisusuallyfeaturedmoretrimmingthanamorningdress,andalwayshada“shortskirt.”Inthe1890s,thismeanteitherinsteplength(twoinchesfromthefloor)orshortroundorclearinglength(oneinchfromthefloor).Duringtheday,shemightalsorequireavisitingdress—aslightlymoreelaboratedressina“round”length(justtouchingtheflooratfront,sides,andback).Ahousedress,whichwasusuallymadeofwashablematerialandtrimming,waswornathome,and,dependinguponhowpracticalitwas,couldbeeitherinsteplengthorfeatureaslighttrain.
Inaddition,adinnerdress(touchingthefloorallaround,andusuallyfeaturingatrainofuptoteninches),andatleastoneversionofitsmoresplendidsister,theeveningdress,wasalsorequired.Thentherewereridinghabitsforladyequestrians,tennisdressesforthetypicallyactiveturn-of-the-centurywoman,bathingsuits,bicyclingandgymsuits,etcetera.Apropermiddle-classwoman’swardrobeofdressranupwardsof$80—thoughagoodnumberofwomencould,anddid,makedowithless.
ButthiswasonlyapartoftheVictorianwoman’swardrobeexpense;shestillhadtobesuppliedwithundergarmentsandaccessories.These,accordingtomiddle-classfashionmagazinesoftheera,includedatleastahalfdozenchemises,adozenpairsofdrawers,ninepetticoats,onetofiveflannelpetticoats,ninecamisoles,adozenpairsofcottonstockings,threepairssilkstockings,twodozenhandkerchiefs,abustlepad,nightcaps,garters,lacecollars,andglovesfordayandeveningwear.Inaddition,onemagazineadvised,“youcannotdowithoutlessthanthreeorfourpairsofcorsets;”thesealonecouldeasilycost$6.
Thentherewereshoestobehad(atanaveragecostof$1.25apair),purses(aboutanother$1.00),millinery(mosthatsrangedfrom$1.99to$3.99each),atleastoneparasol(aplainonecostingabout$1.50),plusbelts,hairdecorations,andahostofothersmalldetailsthatmadealadyofthe1890swell-dressed.
Thisisthesecondcollectionofpatternsfromthedressmaker’sjournalTheVoiceofFashionthatDoverPublicationshasoffered.Besidesfeaturingmorefabulousdressesandstreetcostumes,italsoincludesrarepatternsandgarments,likeatennisdressandridinghabit.Inaddition,twoeveninggownsareoffered,plusararepatternforanEmpiredress.Thisstyle,harkeningbacktothehigh-waistedfashionsofthelate17thandearly19thcenturies,wastheonlyfashionablealternativetothebell-shapedstylesthatprevailedthroughmostofthe1890s.(Itseffectwasprofound;bythe’teens,high-waisteddresseswerethenorm.)
Alsoincludedisanevenmorerarepatternforahousedresswithabra-likebodicedecoration;thisfashionappearedanddisappearedwithinthesameyear.Twonightgownsareincluded,aswell,asthethreedifferentpatternsfordrawers.Thoughwetendtothinkofdrawersaslookingessentiallythesamethroughoutthe19thcentury,thesepatternsprovethatimportantchangesincutdidoccur.
Aboveall,noticethatmanyofthesepatterns,whiletheymightbelooselydubbeda“house”or“street”dress,wereusefulforavarietyofpurposes.Witheasy-to-applychangesintrimming,neckline,sleeve,orskirt,anywalkingdresscouldhaveservedasavisitingorhousedress.Eveninggownswerethemostelaboratelytrimmed,but,ingeneral,thelesslace,beading,puffing,andotherdecorativetrimfeatured,themorecasualtheoutfitwas.Inaddition,when“misses’”dresspatternsareincludedinthiscollection,itisbecauseasimplelengtheningoftheskirtcanmakethedressequallysuitableforayoungwoman.
HowtoUsethePatternsThepatternsgiveninthisbookarescaled.Thereareanumberofdifferentwaystoenlargethem.Foreitherofthetwomethodsdescribedhere,youwillneedapencil,aruler,transparenttape,andarollofwrappingorshelfpaper.
Ifallthepatternsforaparticulargarmentpiece(suchasthebodice)areinthesamescale,thepatternscanbeenlargedbythegridmethod.Aneasywaytocheckwhethertheyareinthesamescaleistomeasurethelinerunningalongtheright-handsideofthepattern.Dividethismeasurementintothenumbergivenatthebottomoftheline.Ifthepatternsareinthesamescale,yourresultsshouldberoughlythesameforeachpiece.Ifthepatternpiecesaretomorethanonescaleorsize,besuretoreadtheinstructionsfor“TheGradingMethod.”
AsamatterofhistoricalinterestwehaveincludedtheoriginaldraftinginstructionsfortheLadies’Costumeonpages78—85.
TheGridMethodBeginwithamajorbodymeasurementsuchasthewaist.Next,addanappropriateamountofwearingease(formostwaistlinesofthisperiod,about½”isappropriate).Now,inordertofigureyourscale,comparethistotalmeasurementwiththecorrespondingmeasurementonthescaledpattern;besuretotakeseamallowancesandpatternpiecesthatrepresent½orlessofthegarmentintoconsideration.If,forexample,theintendedwearerhasa23½”waist,plus½”forwearingease,andthescaledpattern’swaistmeasurementis2”,theproperscaletousewouldbe1”/12”.Inotherwords,everyinchonthescaledpatternwouldequal12”onthefull-sizepattern.
Next,drawagridontopofthescaledpattern(inthisexample,a1”grid),andthendrawagridontheshelfpaper(inthisexample,a12”grid).
Now,transferthelinesofthescaledpatternontotheshelfpaper,squarebysquare.Whenevernecessary,tapetheshelfpapertogethertomakeitlargeenoughforafull-sizepattern.
TheGradingMethodWhengarmentsillustratedshowpatternpiecesgiveninmorethanonescale,youshouldusethegradingmethod.Noticethateachpatternincludessetsofnumbersrunningalongallpatternlines.Thenumbersrunningalongtheright-handedgeofthepatternindicatelengthmeasurements;theothernumbersindicatethewidth.Drawthepatternlinesontoyourpaper,followingallmeasurementscarefully.Itmaybehelpfultodrawa1”gridontothepaperbeforetransferringpatternlinesontoit,butitisnotnecessary.Wherecurvesareshown,youmaydrawthemfreehandorwiththeaidofaFrenchcurve(availableatdressmakingstores).
Onceyouhavecarefullydrawnouteachpatternpieceaccordingtothemeasurementsgiven,youhavecreateda“standardsize”sloperforthegarment.This,bymodernstandards,isquitesmallandwillneedtobegradedtofitthemodernfigure.Ifyouareunfamiliarwiththepracticeofgradingpatterns,followtheinstructionsgivenbeloworconsultadressmakingbookatyourlocallibrary.
ToAdjustWidth:Changeswillalmostcertainlyneedtobemadeinthewidthofyourpattern.Todeterminehowmuchchangeisnecessary,subtractyouractualmeasurements(includingwearingeaseandseamallowances)fromthecorrespondingpatternmeasurements.Forexample,ifyourwaistmeasurementis
25½”andthepatternmeasurementis19”,youneedtoenlargeyourpatternby6½”inthewaistarea.Now,dividetheamountyoumustenlargethepattern(inourexample6½”)bythenumberofbodicepatternpieces(forourexample,say4).Thiswilltellyouhowmuchtoenlargeeachpatternpiece(inourexample,1⅝”).SlashthepatternpiecesasillustratedinFig.1,andspreadinatriangularfashion.Placeapieceofpaperbehindtheslashedsectionandtapeitintoplace.
Totakeinthepattern,makeatuckinthepatternasshowninFig.1andredrawthecuttingandseamlines.
ToAdjustLength:Ifyourgarmentneedsadjustmentinlength,eitherfoldit(iftoolong)orslashandspreadit(iftooshort)(Fig.2).
Fig.1.Toadjustwidth.
Fig.2.Toadjustlength.
Remember:•Inmostcases,allowancesforclosures(hooksandeyes,buttons,plackets)andfacingsarenotincludedonthepatternandmustbeaddedbeforecuttingoutthepatterninfabric.
•Carefullylabelallpatternpiecesandtransferanyconstructionmarkingstothefull-sizepattern.
•Ifacorsetandotherundergarmentsaretobeworn,thebodymeasurementsshouldbetakenintheseundergarments.
•Itmaybenecessarytousedifferentscalesfordifferentpartsofeachgarmentevenifthepatternpiecesforeachpartareinthesamescale.Forinstance,thebodicemayrequirealargerscalethantheskirt,especiallyifacorsetwillnotbewornbeneaththefinishedgarment.
•Thelengthofmostskirtpatternsisnotproportional.Regulatethelengthofskirtsbypersonallengthmeasurements.
•Alwaysremembertoaddwearingeasetoyourbodymeasurementsbeforefiguringthescaleonwhichtoenlargeyourpattern.Ifyoumakeyourpatterntoyourexactmeasurements,theresultinggarmentwillbeskintight,andwillprobablyripwitheverymovement.Easemustbeaddedtomakeclothesfitcomfortably.Thetypical1890swaistlinehadabout½”to1”ease,andthe
comfortably.Thetypical1890swaistlinehadabout½”to1”ease,andtheaveragesnug-fittingbustlinehadabout2½”ofease.
•Becausethereisno“standard”body,testingandperfectingthepatterninmuslinbeforecuttingoutthefashionfabricisadvised.
GENERALDIRECTIONS
TOTAKEMEASURES.Greatcareshouldbetakeningettingmeasures.(Seeillustrationbelow.)
TAKEBUSTMEASUREwiththetapemeasurestraightaroundthelargestpartofthebust,asshownbelow,highupunderthearms;takeasnug,closemeasureneithertootightnortooloose.
TAKEMEASUREAROUNDTHEWAISTastightasthedressistobeworn.
TAKELENGTHOFWAISTfromthelargejointwhereneckandbodyjoin,downtothewaist.Caremustbetakentogetthismeasure.
SLEEVEMEASUREistakenfromthecenterofbacktowristjoint,witharmraisedandelbowbent.
INCUTTINGagarmentlookcarefullyatthedraftsbeingcopied;usenumbersandcurvesasshownindraft.
THEARROWSareusedfortwopurposes—onetoshowwhichwaytoturnthecurve,theotherthenumberofpointstobeconnectedwiththecurve.
THECURVEshouldalwaysbeturnedwiththelargestpartinthedirectioninwhichthearrowpoints.
Whenthearrowisplacedbetweentwolinesitshowsthatonlytwopointsaretobeconnected.
Whenthearrowisplaceduponacrosslineitshowsthatthreepointsmustbeconnectedwiththecurve,thatthepointbythearrowisthemiddleone,andthepointsnearestoneachsidemustbeconnectedwiththecurveatthesametimewithlargerpartofthecurveturnedinthedirectionthearrowpoints.
TheletterAincornerofdraftisthestartingpointinmakingdraft.
TAKINGMEASUREMENTS.
DIRECTIONSFORBASTING.FIRST:—Smooth,eventracingisverynecessary.Placethepatternsmoothon
liningcrosswise.Traceeachlinecarefully.Cutouttheliningsameaspattern.Placetheliningstraightonthegoods,thenap,ifany,runningdown.Pintheliningatthewaistline.Fullthelining(from¼to½inch)eachsideofthewaistline,from1½inchesbelowthewaistlineto2½inchesabove,thegreatestfullnesscomingatthewaistline;thisshortensthelining,butwhenboneditwillbestretchedtoplace.Leavetheliningeasyeachway,fromtopofdartstoshoulders,andone-fourthofaninchfullatcenterofshoulderline.Neverbackstitchinbastingordrawthethreadtight.
Injoiningthedifferentpartstogether,caremustbetaken,assmooth,evenbastingisnecessary.Passtheneedleexactlythroughthetracedseamlinesonbothsidesoftheseam,asmanygarmentsareruinedbycarelessbasting.
Injoiningthebackandside-back,holdtheside-backtoyou,thusyouwillbasteoneupandtheotherdown.Itisagoodideatopinthesepiecesbeforebasting.Iftheshoulderbladesareprominent,holdthebackpiecealittlefullwheretheshoulderbladesstriketowithin1½inchesofarms-eye.Inbastingtheshoulders,holdthebacktoyou.Basteevenlyforoneinch,thenstretchthefrontshouldertomatchtheback,forthebackisalwayscutlonger.
shouldertomatchtheback,forthebackisalwayscutlonger.
MISSES’WRAPPER.Summer1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofupperandunderFronts,upperandunderBacks,side-backandthreesleeveportions.ThiswrapperissuitableforaMissoraLady.Cutthe
threesleeveportions.ThiswrapperissuitableforaMissoraLady.Cuttheupperportionsoutattheneck.(Seediagrams.)Gatherandsewtotheunderfrontandback.IfdesirabletheFrontmaybeshirredattheWaistline,sameastheBack.GathertheupperSleeveandsewtothelining.
RegulatethelengthoftheSkirtbythetape-measure.
LADIES’TEAGOWN.Spring1893UsescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,
whichconsistsofthreefrontportions,BackandSide-back,SleeveandCuff.
Theshirringismadeoflaceorsoftsilk.Jointhedifferentportionsasindicatedonthecuts.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeused.
Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.
LADIES’DRAWERS.Fall1890
LADIES’DRAWERS.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.
Draftthesameasanyothergarment.
Makethebandthelengthandwidthdesired.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’DRAWERS.Spring1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeWaistmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofone-halfofthedrawersandband.
Makeallowancefortucks.Regulatebythetapemeasure.
LADIES’DRAWERS.Spring1895
Selectthescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.
Itisintwopieces:One-halfofthedrawersandone-haltoftheband.Thesecanbeclosedorleftopen.
Gathertheextrafullnessatthetopandsewtotheband.
Makeallallowancesfortucks.
Regulatethelengthbythetapeline.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentire
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirePolonaise,whichconsistsof8pieces—UpperandUnderRightFront,LeftFront,Back,Side-Back,CollarandtwoSleevePortions.
Shirrorlaypleatsattheshoulderoftheupperrightfront.Laythepleatsatthesidesaccordingtothenotches,makeitcomeevenwiththeskirtatthebottom.Theleftfrontmaybetrimmedwithbraid,velvetorribbon.Laythepleatsinthebackandside-backaccordingtothenotches,formingtwoboxpleatsintheback.Jointheunderrightfrontattheunder-armdartandshoulderseam.
Thesleevesmaybetrimmedwithbandsofvelvet,ribbonsorbraiding,orwiththeruchingasthefigurerepresents.
Theskirtisgivenonpage10;draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure,isinthreepieces—Front,BackandSide-Gore.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890
YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofUpperandUnderFrontsandBacks,SideBackandtwoSleeveportions
Draftthisthesameasallothers.
Laypleatsinthefrontandbackasrepresented.
Gatherthesleevesatthetoptofitthearms-eye.
Drafttheskirtbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.
Trimtosuit.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
STREETCOSTUME.Fall1890
STREETCOSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofUpperandUnderFronts,Back,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,Collar,andSleeve.
Bastethesideformontothebackasfardownastheseamlineismarked,andfromtheredowntothebottom,lapthesideformovertheback;finishwithsmallbuttons,setclosetogether,oneachsideoftheback.Facetheupperfrontasfarbackasthedottedline,andturnbackforarollingcollar,extendingtothebottomofthegarmentTakeupthedart,cutoutandpresstheseamopen,Jointotheunderarm-gore;alsojointheunderfrontorvesttotheunderarm-gore.
Thediagramsforthedraperyaregivenonpage15.Draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Itconsistsoftwopieces:FrontandBack.Laythebackintwodoubleboxpleats.Laythepleatsinthefrontaccordingtothenotches;makeitevenwiththeskirt.Cutthefoundationskirtfromanyoftheplainskirtpatterns.Regulatetosuit.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Winter1890-91
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthebasque,whichconsistsoffront-back,side-backandunder-arm-gore.Braidthewaistdownthe
consistsoffront-back,side-backandunder-arm-gore.Braidthewaistdownthefrontandthesleevessameastheskirt.Thejacketisgivenonpage17.Draftbybustmeasure;itconsistsoffront-back,side-back,under-arm-gore,standingandmedicicollars,andtwosleeveportions.Sewthemedicicollaronthedottedline,closethefrontwithlargepatenthooks,makethegarmentaslongasdesirable.
Thedraperyisgivenonpage18.Draftwithscalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure;isintwopieces,frontandback;laythepleatsinthefrontaccordingtothenotches,gatherorpleattheback.Thediagramsforthefoundationskirtaregivenonpage19.Draftbywaistmeasure.Itconsistsoffront,backandside-gore.Regulatethelengthoftheentiregarmentbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1891
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthejacket,whichconsistsoffrontandskirt,back,sideback,collar,pocketlapandtwosleeveportions.Draftthisthesameasallothergarments.Bastethefrontandsidebacktogether,takeupthedarts,thenbastetheskirton;connectthenotches.Bringthe
together,takeupthedarts,thenbastetheskirton;connectthenotches.Bringthefrontofthecollartothenotchinfront.Gatherorpleatthesleevesveryfullonthetop.Makethejackettomatchthesuitorofanysuitablematerial.
Thedraperyisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Thediagramsaregivenonpages21and22.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Facethebottomwithsilkoranysuitablematerial.Useanywaistgiveninthisissueoranyother.Thejacketmaybetrimmedtocorrespondwiththeskirt,thatistherollingcollar,sleevesandpocketlaps.
Regulatethelengthoftheentiregarmentwiththetapemeasure.
YOUNGMISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1891
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftwaistandjacket—
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftwaistandjacket—thewaistconsistsofupperandunderfront,back,sideback,under-arm-goreandgirdle.Laypleatsontheupperfrontaccordingtothenotches,closewithhooksandeyesontheshoulderandunderthearms.Thejacketmaybeomittedifdesirable.
Theskirtanddraperyisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Theskirtisinthreepieces—front,backbreadthandside-gore.Thedraperyisinonepiece.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Makeaboxpleatoverthehipandtwointheback.Trimtosuit.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUMESpring1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwoFronts,Back,Collarandthreesleeveportions.TheBackisseamless.Besureandcutbutoneofeachfronts,asoneisfortherightsideandtheotherisfortheleft.Gathertheupperpartofthesleeveatthebottom,
andtheotherisfortheleft.Gathertheupperpartofthesleeveatthebottom,sewittotheundersleeve,gatheritthroughthecenteroronthedottedline;drawituptofittheundersleeve,thengatherthetop;alsogatherthetopoftheundersleeve.Thesleeveliningonpage28maybeusedinsteadfortheundersleeve,ifdesired,asitwillnotrequiresomuchmaterial.
TheSkirtisgivenonpages26and27.Draftbythewaistmeasure;itisinfourpieces—twoFronts,BackandSideGore.Jointheupperfronttototheback.Theunderfrontandside-goremaybemadeofacontrastingmaterial,withgoodresults.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1893
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheWaist,JacketandSleeves.Thewaistisinsixpieces,namely:Front,Back,Girdle,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherattheneckandwaist;cutthebackdouble.
TheJacketisgivenonpage30.Thebackiscutdouble,rounditinthecenter.Thisisveryprettymadeofblackvelvetwiththelargefullsleevepuffgivenonpage26,omittingtheshirringthroughthecenterifmadeofthevelvet.Trimitallaroundandupthebackwithfancytinselorgimp;trimaroundthearm’seyealso.Theeffectisverypretty.
Theskirtisgivenonpage31.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Thisisaonepieceskirt.Gatheritallallaround,puttingmostofthefulnessinthecenteroftheback.Trimthebottomtosuit.
Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaist,JacketandSleeves.
TheWaistconsistsofFront,Back,TopofSleeve,SleeveBand,PuffandCuff.Gatherthewaistbetweenthenotchesandsewtoabelt.Fastenontheleftsideinvisibly.
TheJacketiscutinonepiece.Thisgivesthepointedfrontwhichmayberoundedoffifpreferred,orthepointmaybecutshorter.Turnbackonthedottedlineforrevers.ThediagramsforJacket,CuffandPuffaregivenonPage34.
TheSkirtisgivenonPage33Draftbywaistmeasure,thisgivesthesixgoresandalsothefullness,somuchdesiredatpresent.Putthedifferentpartstogetheraccordingtothestars,gathertheextrafullnessinatthewaist.Regulatethelengthtosuit.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Summer1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheWaist,SleevesandCape.TheWaistconsistsoffront,back,side-back,twounderarmgores,twosleeveportionsandcollar.Thisissuitableforamediumform.Thebottommaybeshapedtosuitthewearer.TheCapeisinonepiece.Thediagramisgivenonpage37.Linewithsilk;trimwithvelvetsatinbands,orfolds.
onpage37.Linewithsilk;trimwithvelvetsatinbands,orfolds.
TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistMeasure.Itisinonepiece.Thisisaveryfullskirt,somecallittheflutedlampshade.Itlooksbesttrimmedwithflatbandsormillinerfolds,orscantruffles.Makeitclearthefloorallaround.Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandSleeves.
TheBlouseWaistconsistsofFront,Back,Sleeve,CuffandCollar.TucktheFront,hemthebottomandwearundertheSkirt.
Front,hemthebottomandwearundertheSkirt.
TheJacketisintwopieces,FrontandBack.Makeofvelvet,trimwithembroidery.
TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistMeasure;isinonepiece.Gatherallaround,bringingmostofthefullnessinthecenteroftheback.Trimtosuit,eitherwithvelvetorsatin.
Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheJacketandWaist.Thewaististheseamless,excepttheshoulderseams.Closeinfrontwithhooksandeyes.TheJacketisintwopieces—FrontandBack.Laythepleatsinfrontaccordingtothenotches;thebretelleextendsacrossthebackoftheneckanddownthefrontlinewithcontrastingsilk;gatheronthedottedline.
anddownthefrontlinewithcontrastingsilk;gatheronthedottedline.
TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBackbreadth.ThisistheBellskirtwithabackbreadthsetintogivetherequiredfullness.Trimtorepresentadoubleskirt.Thesleeveisgatheredallaroundthetopandallowedtofalldownoverthearms.Tacktotheliningtokeepinplace.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofUpperandUnder-Front,Back,Side-Back,jacketFrontandBack.CuttheUpper-Frontdoubleandfastenontheshoulderandunderthearms.Gathertheextrafullnessatthewaistandsewtoabelt.Thebackofthe
arms.Gathertheextrafullnessatthewaistandsewtoabelt.Thebackofthejacketiscutdoublebutroundedupfromthebottom.Thesleevesandskirtaregivenonpage44.Gatherthetopoftheballoonsleeveandbastetothelining.Gathertheextrafullnessontheupper-sideandbasteintheseams.TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Gatherthetop,finishthebottomwithadeepSpanishflounce.Makeanextraflounceunderneathwithwirygoodstomakeitflareout.Regulatetosuit.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1894
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireBasque,whichconsistsofone-halfofWaistandBasqueSkirt.Thisisanovelty,butisveryprettywhenproperlymade.TheWaistgivestheseamlesseffectintheback,buthasonedartoneachsideandoneinthecenterofFront.TherightFrontmaybecutofffrom2½downto5¾.ClosedownthecenterofFrontwithhooksandeyes;laptheleftFrontovertherightandbutton.Whalebonetheliningunderthearmsandeachdart.
LinetheBasqueSkirtwithsilkandsewtothewaist,orfinishwithabandandhooktheWaisttoit;letitremainopendownthefront.Itmaybecutlongerorshorter,justtosuit.
TheSleevesaregivenonpage46,threepieces,upperandunderSleeveandSleevepuff.Sewthepuffonthedottedline.
Sleevepuff.Sewthepuffonthedottedline.
TheSkirtisgivenonpage47.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.Putthepartstogetherastheyaremarked.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeusedfortheentiregarment.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacketandWaist.TheJacketconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,RollingCollarandthreeSleeveportions.Thisgivesthefullskirteffect.Gathertheuppersleeveallaroundwithverylargestitches.Jointhenotchontoptotheshoulderseam.
TheWaistconsistsofFrontandBackYoke,andgatheredportionforfrontandback.Closeontheshoulderandunder-the-arm.Finishthebottomwithasoft
andback.Closeontheshoulderandunder-the-arm.Finishthebottomwithasoftbeltfastenedunderthearm.Useanysleevesgiven.
TheSkirtisdraftedbytheWaistmeasure;isinfourpieces,Front,Back,andtwoSide-gores;onemaybeomittedifdesirable.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
MISSES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1894
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofFrontandBackofYoke,andgatheredportionsforFrontandBack,Collar,RuffleandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherthelowerportionforthe
Back,Collar,RuffleandtwoSleeveportions.Gatherthelowerportionforthewaistandsewtotheyoke.Therufflemaybelinedwithsilkandsewedinthesameseam.Closedownthefrontinvisibly.Gatherthesleevestofitthearmseye.
TheSkirtisgivenonpage53.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.Gatherthetoptofitthewaist.Trimtosuit.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1894
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacketandWaist.TheJacketconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,RollingCollarandtwoSleeveportions.Thisgivesthefullskirt.Makeaslongasdesirable.Maybemadeofanysuitablematerial;facetheFrontandturnback.
desirable.Maybemadeofanysuitablematerial;facetheFrontandturnback.ThefullWaistingivenonpage55,itconsistsofFrontandBack.Gatherthetoptofittheneck.Itmaybemadeupoveralining.Gatherthebottomandfinishwithasoftbelt.
TheSkirtisgivenonpage56.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isintwopieces,FrontandBack.GatherthecenterofBackfromthenotch.
AveryprettyfinishforthebottomofSkirtsismadebycuttingbiasvelvet1½incheswideandmakingaheavycordbytwistingcandlewickloosely,coveringitwiththevelvet.SewitonthebottomandfacetheundersideoftheSkirt.
RegulatethelengthoftheSkirtbythetapemsasure.
LADIES’STREETGOWNSpring1894
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofupperandunderFronts,Back,Side-back,CollarandthreeSleeveportions.Cuttheliningforthefrontfromtheunder-frontonly.Maketheupper-frontofthedressmaterial.Closetheupper-frontontheleftsideattheshoulderandunderthearminvisibly.Cutthebackdouble,gathervery
attheshoulderandunderthearminvisibly.Cutthebackdouble,gatherverycoarselyorpleattheuppersleevebetweenthenotches.ThedraperyandskirtaredraftedbytheWaistmeasure.Thedraperyisintwopieces,FrontandBack.Laythreeupwardturning4pleatsinthefrontdrapery.Laythreebackwardturningpleatsintheback.Facethefrontedgewithsilkorvelvetandturnbackontheoutsidetoformarevere.Thesametrimmingmaytrimthefrontdrapery—Theeffectisverypleasing.TheskirtisaBellskirt,anyotherfullskirtmaybeusedifdesirable.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Spring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-arm-gore,tworevereportions,vestfrontandthreesleeveportions.
Thisisashortpointedbasque;draftthesameasallothergarments.Therevereorlargecollarmaybemadeseparately;interlinewithcanvas,finishtheedgewithguimporjettrimming.Thebottomofthebasquemaybefinishedwithasoftrollofvelvetorsilkfinish,thebackwithabutterflybow.
Thesleevesmaybepleatedinvariousways,orgathered;oneoftheprettiestwaysistolaysidepleats,meetinginthecenteroratpointofshoulder.
Anotheristomakeaboxpleatontopwithdeepsidepleatsoneachside.Alwayslinethepuffpartwithcrinoline,tarletanorfibrechamois,thelatteristhemostdurableasthecoatsleevewillnotcrushit.
Theskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,itconsistsoffront,backbreadthandside-gore.Linethebackwithhairclothandmakeadoubleboxpleatdownthecenter.TheeffectisveryprettyandmoredurablethantheGodetpleats,oritmaybegatheredorpleatedindeepknifepleats,meetingatthecenter.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwofronts,back,vestfront,waisttrimming,andthreesleeveportions.DraftsameasallothersCuttheFrenchbackdouble,takeupthedartsinthelargefront(whichmaybemadeoftheliningonly)closedownthecenterwithhooksandeyes.Thebackandsmallfrontmaybemadeofvelvet,alsothetrimmings.Laypleatstoformacascade.Thevestfrontisgivenonpage66.Makeofperforatedclothorvelvet.Laythesleevepuffinthreedoubleboxpleats;interlinewithTarletanorFibreChamois.Gatherthebottomandsewtothesleeveliningonthedottedlines.Draftthedraperyandskirtbythewaistmeasure.
Thedraperyorcascadeisgivenonpage66.Faceallaroundwiththesamematerialastheskirt.Laythepleatstoformacascade;jointothefrontseams.Theskirtisgivenonpage67.Isinthreepieces—front,backbreadths,andside-gore.Gatherorpleattheback.Facethebottomwithhaircloth13inchesdeep.Bindthebottomwithvelvet.Regulatethelengthwiththetapemeasure.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsof2fronts,back,collar,andthreesleeveportions.
Cuttheunderfrontliningfromthediagramhavingonlyonedart.Closewithhooksandeyes.Cutaliningtotheupperfrontalso,andcloseontheleftshoulderandunderthearmwithhooksandeyes.Iftheladyforwhomthiswaistisbeingcutisslender,thedartsintheupperfrontmaybeomitted.Cutthe
isbeingcutisslender,thedartsintheupperfrontmaybeomitted.Cutthematerialonthebias,andbasteittotheunderfrontdownthecenter(veryfirmly)andstretchittofitthefigure.Itcanbeeasilydoneifthefigureisgood.Cutoffthesurplusgoodsatthebottomandunderthearmsafterithasbeenfirmlybastedallaround.Trimwithbraiding,sameasrepresented,oranyotherstyle.InterlinethesleevepuffwithTarletanorFibreChamois,andsewtothesleevelining.
Theskirtisgivenonpage70.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Itconsistsoffront,andGodetpleatfortheback.Theremaybetwo,threeorfourofthese,astheyareallcutalike;wehavegivenbutone.Interlinethebackthroughoutwithhaircloth.Thefrontmaybefaceduptothekneewiththesame.Staythepleatsunderneathwithelastic.Donotpressthem,however.
Trimthefrontwithlightanddarkcloth.Cutinstripspointedattheends,andfinishwithnailheads,oranyotherdecoration.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.Winter1896
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireJacket,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-armGore,andfiveSleeveportions.
ThisJacketistightfittingintheBackandlooseinFront.Italsogivestherippleskirt,correspondingwiththepresentstyle.Ifitismadeoflightweightcloth,interlinethroughoutwithheavyfibrechamois,whichwillgivewarmthandafinishthatnoothermaterialwill.Theouterliningshouldbeoftaffetasilk,harmonizingincolor.TheMelonSleeveisgivenonPage73;thisisdraftedthesameasanyothergarment;italsoshouldbeinterlinedwithfibrechamois.Putthepartstogetheraccordingtothestarsandnumbers.Eachseamshouldbecordedwithacontrastingcolor.LayBoxPleatsatthetop,accordingtothenotchesandlittlestraightlines.ThisSleevemayalsobeusedforaDressSleeve.TheSkirtisgivenonPages74and75;draftbythescalecorrespondingwiththeWaist.Measureisinfourpieces,Front,BackandtwoSideGores;thisgivestherippleeffect.Ifitisnotthedesiredwidth,addonemoresidegore;ifthisisdone,makethetopofeachatriflesmaller.Facethebottomthedepthofteninches,withhaircloth.UsecottontaffetatolinetheSkirt.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’MELONSLEEVE.
LADIES’STREETCOSTUME.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandSleeves,whichconsistsofFront,BackandSide-back,CollarandthreeSleevePortions.Maybemadeofanymaterial.UseSkirtgivenonpages74and75.
75.
LADIES’COSTUME.Fall1890
Theobjectininsertingthisdraftinthequarterlymagazineistoaccommodatethoseofourpatronswhodonotfullyunderstandourmethodofdrafting.Inthefirstplace,weascertainthecorrectmeasures.
Itisimpossibletoobtainaperfect-fittinggarmentwithincorrectmeasurement.Thereforeweinsistthattoobtainthedesiredresultswemustbeaccurateintakingthemeasures.
First,takethebustmeasurewiththetape-linestraightaroundthelargestpartofthebust,highupunderthearms;takesnug,closemeasure,neithertootightnortooloose.
Takemeasurearoundthewaistastightasthedressistobeworn.Takelengthofwaistfromthelargejointwheretheneckandbodyjoindowntothewaist.Caremustbetakentogetthismeasure.Ifitisdifficult,asitoftenis,toascertainjustwheretolocatethewaistlineintheback,takeabeltorstringandplacearoundthewaist,verytight,aslowdownasthedresscanbeworn.
Sleevemeasureistakenfromthecenterofbacktowristjoint,witharmraisedandelbowbent.
Alwaysdraftthebackfirst,asourmeasuresaretakenfromtheback.
Alwaysdraftthebackfirst,asourmeasuresaretakenfromtheback.
Afterobtainingthebustmeasure,selectfromthepackageofscalesthecorrespondingscale,andplaceitonthesquare;fastensecurelywiththescrew,thensquarethepaperbydrawingapencil-markacrossthetopanddownthesideofthesquare.Thenproceedtodrawoutthepattern.Firstmakepointsonthepapercorrespondingwithallthefiguresontheoutsideofthebase-lineuntilyoucometo14¼,whichisthewaistline.Nowmakeadotwiththepencilat14¼.Takethetape-lineandmeasurefromthepointyouhavemadeat¾downto14¼,orwaistline,andifitdoesnotcorrespondwiththetape-linemeasurement,raiseorlowerthepointanddrawthewaistlinefromthere.Takethescaleandmeasurethedifferencebetweenthedotmadeat14¼andthepointforthewaistline,andchangethewaistlineontheside,backandfrontthesameamount.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineoneortwospaces,asthecasemaybe,changeallthefiguresbelowthewaistlinecorrespondingly.
Beveryaccurateingettingthecross-figures,assometimesaneighthofaspaceaddedtoortakenfrommakesitimpossibletoobtainatruecurve.Iftheeighthswerenotessentialtheywouldnothavebeenplacedthere.Rememberthis.Putthemdownjustastheyoccuronthedifferentdiagrams.Itisuselesstoexplainhowtolaythecurvetodraftoutthebasque,forthedifferentchangesaregiveninfullonthediagramsfortheback,side-back,frontandtwo-sleeves,andallothersaregotteninthesameway.Thearrow-headpointstowardthelargestpartofthecurve;therefore,ifyounoticewhichwaythearrowpoints,youwillatonceknowhowtolaythecurve.
Wenextdrafttheside-back.Squarethepaperaspreviouslyexplained.Makeapointatallthefiguresastheyoccuronthebase-lineuntilyoucometo10¼,orwaistline.Changethisthesameasontheback.Donotusethetapelinetomeasuretheside-backorfront,butchangethewaistlinesjustthesameamount,eitherupordown,asthecasemaybe.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineoneortwospaces,raiseorlowerallthefiguresonthebase-linebelowthewaistlinethesameamountaswaistline.Putthefiguresdownonthecross-linejustastheyoccuronthediagram.Thentakethecurveanddrawoutthepattern.
Draftthefrontnext.Squarethepaperandproceedasbefore,makingapointforallthefiguresonthebase-lineuntilyoucometo16,orwaistline.Ifyouhaveraisedorloweredthewaistlineonthebackandside-back,alsochangethistocorrespond,andchangeallthefiguresbelowthewaistlinethesame.Putthefiguresdownjustastheyoccuronthecross-lines;thentakethecurveanddrawoutthepattern.
outthepattern.
Measurethewaistoftheentirebasquewiththetape-line,omittingallseams,dartsandhemifitdoesnotcorrespondwiththedesiredwaistmeasure.Addtoortakefromtheunder-armdartone-halftheamountrequired.Donotcutthedartout;basteonthelinesheregiven.Wherethedartsareverybias,cutthemopenthroughthecenter.Allseamsshouldbeslashedinatthewaistlinetopreventdrawing.Becarefultoconnectthewaistlines.Inbastingtheside-backandbacktogether,holdtheside-backtowardsyou.Putalltheextrafullnessovertheshoulderblades.Inbastingtheshoulderseams,stretchthefronttwoorthreeinchesfromtheneck.
Betterresultscanbeobtainedinfittingthewaistbynotbastingthehemdownthefrontbeforetryingiton.Neverputitonwrongsideout.Bastealltheseamsupandslashthematthewaistlines.Thenputitonthepersontobefitted.Pinthefrontstogetherjustasyouwouldwereittobesewedtogether,commencingatthewaistline,drawingitastightasthegarmentistobeworn,payingnoattentiontotheswellfrontonthepattern.
Thiswayyouwillobtainanaccurateshapeofthewaist,bustandneck.Beforetakingthepinsoutmarkwithpencilorchalk.Turndownhalfaninchfromthislineontherightsideforthebuttonholes.
Takemeasureforthesleevewiththearmraisedandelbowbent;measurefromcenterofbacktoknucklejoint.Deductwidthofbackpiece,lessoneinchforseams.Thisgivescorrectlengthofsleeve.
Thensquarethepaperaswehavepreviouslyexplained,makeamarkforallthefiguresoutsideofthebaseline,thenproceedtogetthefiguresonthecrosslines.
Takethetapelineandmeasuretheuppersleevefrom8onbackofsleevedownto4½atthebottom.Ifitisnottherequiredlength,changethetwolowerfiguresonthebaseline18½and20¼,eitherupordown,tocorrespondwithtapelinemeasurement.Ifwehavechangedittwoorthreespaces,changethelineattheelbowone-halfthedistance.
Drafttheunderpartofthesleevethesameway.Ifthefigureshavebeenchangedontheuppersleeve,changethelowerfiguresontheunderparttocorrespond.
TheDraperyandSkirtisdraftedbythescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Thedraperyisintwopieces—Side-PanelandBack.Gatherthebackdrapery,interlinethepanel,andlayonepleatoverthehip.Makejustthesamelengthastheskirt.
TheSkirtconsistsofthreepieces—Front,BackandSide-Gore.Draftthisuponthegeneralplanofwork.Regulatethelengthwiththetapemeasure.
Thiscompletestheinstructiondraft,andalltheothersaredrafteduponthesameplan.Beaccurateinputtingdownthefiguresandfollowthearrowsclosely.
LADIES’PLAINSKIRT.
LADIES’COSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftenpieces—UpperandUnderFronts,UpperandUnderBacks,Side-Back,Under-ArmGore,PleatedGirdle,PufffortheSleeves,andtwoSleevePortions.
Laypleatsatthebottomoftheupperbackandfrontaccordingtothenotches.
Laythepleatsandsewthegirdleintheunder-armseam.Closeinfrontwithalargebuckle.
Draftthesleevessameasanyothersleeves,buttomakeasrepresented:cutouttheuppersleevesasdiagramsshow,turnundereachsideandinsertthepleatedpuff;laythepleatstowardthecenterline,gatheratthetopandsewinthearmseye;trimthesleeveatthehandsameastheskirtorwithacuff.
Theskirtisgivenonpage88,isdraftedbythescalecorrespondingwithwaistmeasure,isinonepiece;bringmostofthefullnessintheback.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’COSTUME.Winter1890-91
LADIES’COSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirepolonaise,whichconsistsoftwofronts,yoke,girdleandshirring,back,sidebackandsleeve.
Laythepleatsinthebackaccordingtothenotches;takeupthedartinthesideback.
Turndownthefrontontheinsidelineandsewtothefullfrontontherightside.Closethefrontontheleftsidewithhooksandeyes;gatherthesleevebetweenthenotches.Thefrontdraperyisgivenonpage91.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches;drapeupuntilitisevenatthebottomoftheskirt.
Useanyplainskirtpatternforthefoundationskirt.Trimtosuit.
LADIES’EMPIREGOWN.Spring1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodraftthewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftwofrontportionsandJacketFront,Back,Collarandfivesleeveportions.Thisgarmentisnotputtogethertheusualway—inthefirstplacecutthebackofthewaist,thenmeasuretheskirtfromthewaistdownaslongasdesired,draftoutthebackofskirt,laytwodoubleboxpleatsintheback,oneoneachside,asyouwillseeindiagramonpage94.Thenotchesindicatethe
oneoneachside,asyouwillseeindiagramonpage94.Thenotchesindicatethepleat,thestarsindicatehowdeepthepleatsare.Sewthistothebackofwaist,thencuttherightandleftfronts.Youwillseethefrontsareshorterwaisted.Ifyouhavechangedthelengthoftheskirtintheback,makethesamechangesinfront.Gatherthefrontoftheskirtandsewtothewaist,thencutthejacketfront,gatheritontheshouldersbetween5ontopbaselineand11½onfirstcrossline,drawuptofittheshoulder,thenjoinwithunderfrontsandbackinoneseam,alsojoinintheunderarmseam;finishthefrontwitharosetteofvelvetorornament.
TheSleevesaregivenonpage93.Cutthepuffsandcuffsofvelvet;cuttheliningfromthediagramsgiven.Drafttheskirtfromthewaistmeasure.
LADIES’COSTUME.Summer1893
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustMeasuretodrafttheWaistandSleeves,whichconsistsofFront,Back,twoSleeveportionsandSleevePuff.Thisisasurplicewaist.Itmaybegatheredontheshoulderinsteadofthefolds,ifpreferable.Gatherthebackbetweenthenotches,facethebottom,lapthefrontsacrosseachother.Theneckmaybefilledinwithlaceorremainopenforwarmweather.Shirrthetopofthesleeveasmanytimesasdesirable,andsewto
warmweather.Shirrthetopofthesleeveasmanytimesasdesirable,andsewtotheundersleeve;makeitlayflatonthetopandstandoutattheelbow.
TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure;isintwopieces—upperpartoftheskirtandflounceTheseflouncesaresewedtotheskirtwithoutanyfullness;itbeingcutroundinggivesthesquirmedfullnessatthebottom.Veryoftensleevesaremadeinthesameway,withthreeorfourflaringrufflesatthetopandline,withacontrastingsilk.Theeffectisverypretty.Maketheskirtclearthefloorallaround.Regulatelengthbythetape-measure.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaistandCape,whichconsistsofFrontandBackfortheWaist.Shirrasmanytimesasdesiredattheneck,alsogatherattheWaistline.TheUnderWaistisintwopieces,FrontandBack;theCapeisinonepiece,cutdouble.Linewithsilk;trimtheedgewithlace.UseanySleevegiveninthisissue.TheSkirtisgivenonpage98.DraftbytheWaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBack;thisgivesthe
98.DraftbytheWaistmeasure;isintwopieces,FrontandBack;thisgivesthebelleffect.Takeupthedarts,cutopenandpress;thismaybegatheredattheWaist,insteadofthedartsTrimtheSkirttosuit.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’COSTUME.Spring1894
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentireWaist,whichconsistsofFrontandBack,twoSleeveportions,PuffandRuffleforthetopofsleeve.ThisisablouseWaist,maybewornundertheskirtorover,
forthetopofsleeve.ThisisablouseWaist,maybewornundertheskirtorover,justtosuit.
TheFrontisgatheredattheshouldertofittheback,gatherthebackattheneck.Gatherorpleatatthewaistbetweenthenotches,finishwithasoftbelt,closeinvisibly.GatherthePuffandsewtothedottedlineonthesleeveportions.LinetheRufflewithsilkandsewinwiththesleeve.TheseamlessWaistisgivenforthelining.
TheSkirtisgivenonpage101.DraftbytheWaistmeasure.Isinthreepieces,Front,BackandSide-gore.GathertheBackatthetop.Trimthebottomwithfoldsoranytrimmingdesirable.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’COSTUMESpring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofone-halfofwaist,rollingcollar,vest,andstandingcollar,sleeveandskirttrimming.
Thiswaisthasnoseamsunderthearmnordowntheback.Takeupthedartsinfront,closeonthesidewithbuttonsandbuttonholes,takeuptheshoulderseams,cuttherollingcollardouble,interlinewithcanvas,andfacewithsilk;sewtowaist,trimwithvelvet.
Getthediagramsforthesleevesonpage104.Draftbythebustmeasure,laythepleatstoformatripleboxpleat,finishthesleevetrimmingallaroundandplaceuponthisboxpleat,tackitinplace.Usethediagramsfortheskirt,onpages62and63.Draftbythewaistmeasure,interlinethroughoutwithgrasscloth,faceupthebottomwithvelvet,placetheskirttrimmingoneachsideasrepresented.
Thevestismadeoflinen.Usethisdiagramforthelining,layasidepleatdownthecenteroftheoutside.
Finishwithastandingcollar.
LADIES’HOUSEDRESS.Spring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist.Thisisaseamlesswaist,andsurelyisanovelty.Therearenovisibleseamswhatever.Thebackextendsovertothefront,andformsayoke.Tackthefrontshoulderonthedottedlineonshoulder(seediagram).Connectthestarsandrings.Takeupthedartoverthebust;cutopenandpresscarefully;theyokewillcoverit.Closedownthefrontinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.Whenthepatternis
coverit.Closedownthefrontinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.Whenthepatternisdraftedout,iftoosmall,changeinfrontat2¼,one-halfthedesiredamount.Donotattempttousethisforastoutform.Thebottommaybefinishedwithasoftfoldofvelvet,thesametobeusedtofinishbottomofyoke,andcrushcollar.Bonetheliningsameasanyotherwaist.
TheUmbrellaskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,isinonepiece.Takealltheextrafullnesstotheback.Interlinewithgrasscloth,andfacethebottomwithvelvet.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
YONGLADIES’HOUSEDRESS.Spring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoftwofrontyokesandtwobackyokes,andshirringforfrontandback.Thefullportionsmaybemadeofvelvetorsilk.Sewtotheplainyoke,gatherthebottomandsewtoabelt.
Thepointedyokeisembroidered,ormaybemadeofvelvet,edgedwithjet,andthefullportionsmadeofsamematerialasthedress.Finishtheneckwithastockcollar;alsofinishthewaistwithasofttwistofvelvet,andbowattheside.
Usethesleevesonpages65and66,oranyothermoredesirablepattern.
Usetheskirtgivenonpage106.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Bringallthefullnessintheback.Trimwithvelvetbands,oranyotherstyle.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’COSTUME.Spring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,jacketandsleeves.Thewaistconsistsoftwofronts,twobacksandthreesleeveportions.Gathertheupperportionatneckandwaistline.Thisgivestheblouseeffectinfront,andmaybemadeofsilkoranythinmaterial.Thejacketisseamless,excepttheshoulderseams.Draftsameasanyothergarment.Linethroughoutwithsilk.Therollingcollarisgivenonpage110.Itgivesthesailorbackandstraightfront.Keepinplacewithatwistofvelvetandrosettesateachside.Usethecrushcollaronpage106.Interlinethepuffforthesleevewithtarletanorcross-barcanvasandgatherorpleat,andsewtothetightsleeveondottedline.
Thebellskirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure,isinonepiece.Interlinewithgrasscloth,andfacewithvelvet.
Trimwithgraduatedlengthsofvelvetandbows.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’COSTUME.Winter1896
LADIES’COSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaistandsleeves,whichconsistsoftwoFronts,Back,VestFront,RollingSailorCollar,NeckBand,andsmallRollingCollar,CuffandthreeSleeveportions.
TheBackmaybemadewithorwithoutaseamdownthecenter.CuttheliningfromtheFronthavingtwoDarts.Closewithhooksandeyes.CuttheVest,or
fromtheFronthavingtwoDarts.Closewithhooksandeyes.CuttheVest,orcenterFront,double,sewtotheliningontherightSide,andfastenontheleftSidewithhooksandeyes.SewthelargeRollingCollartotheupperFrontandtacktotheliningontherightSideandcloseinvisiblywithhooksandeyes.InterlinetheRollingCollarwithTailors’Canvas.TheFrenchSleevemaybemade,asitnowshows,withpleatscomingjustbelowtheelbow,finishedwithafancycuff,orthefigures18¾and19½maybelowerednearlytothebottom,whichwouldgivetheBishopSleeveeffect.Ineithercase,thetopoftheSleeveshouldbelinedwithfibrechamoisorlightweightcanvas,orseagrass,thelatterbeingthefavorite.
TheSkirtisgivenonpage114.Draftbythewaistmeasure.Lineitwithcottontaffetaortheoldfashionedpapercambric,trimtheentiregarmentwithvelvetandbraidorjet.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’UMBRELLASKIRT.
LADIES’COSTUME.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasure.ItconsistsoftwoFronts,twoBacks,twoYokepiecesandthreeSleeveportions.CuttheliningonlyfromthesmallestFrontandBack,gathertheupperportionsattheNeckandWaistandsewtothelining;closedownthecenterinvisibly.MaketheYokeofsamematerialastheSleeves;trimwithpassementerieorbraid;closeontheleftshoulderwithhooksandloops;gathertheSleevePuffandsewtotheSleeve;
shoulderwithhooksandloops;gathertheSleevePuffandsewtotheSleeve;interlineaswehavealreadyexplained.UsetheSkirtonPage114.
STOUTLADIES’PRINCESS.Winter1896
STOUTLADIES’PRINCESS.
(Thishasbeeninsertedbyspecialrequest.)
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,twoUnder-armgores,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.
Draftsameasallothergarments;laypleatsintheback;jointheunder-armgoresaccordingtothestars.
Theruffleovertheshouldermaybecarriedtoasharppointintheback,sameasthefront,oritmaybeomittedjusttosuit.Closeinfrontwithhooksandeyes.Anystyleoftrimmingmaybeused.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’TIGHT-FITTINGJACKET.Winter1890-91
LADIES’HUNTER’SJACKET.Spring1895
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsoffront,back,andcollar.
Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,twoboxpleatsinfrontandtwointheback.Itmaybemadeofsilkorcloth.Hemthebottom.
Thesleevesaregivenonpages65and66.Draftbythebustmeasure.BesureandinterlinethepuffwithTarletanorcross-barredcanvas.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,formingthreedouble-boxpleats.Sewuptheseamandgatherthebottom,andsewtothelining.Finishwithasoftrollofvelvetandbows.
Drafttheskirtfromthediagramgivenonpage67.Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Facethebottomwithheavycanvas,andbinditwithvelvet.Wehaveomittedsomeoftheskirtsandsleevesforwantofroom.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
TENNISCOSTUME.Fall1890
TENNISCOSTUME.
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodraftthejacketandwaist.ThejacketconsistsofBack,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,andtwoSleeve
waist.ThejacketconsistsofBack,SideBack,UnderArm-gore,andtwoSleeveportions.
Facethefrontbackasfarasthediagonalline;turnthisbacktoformarollingcollar.Finishtheedgewithagoldorsilvercord.Theblouseorshirtwaistconsistsoffront,back,collar,cuff,sleevefacingandsleeve.Tuckthefrontasrepresented,closewithbuttons.Facethebottomandinsertacord.Theunderwaistisgivenonpage126;Isinthreepieces:Front,BackandSideBack.
Drafttheskirtbythewaistmeasure;laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches.Presscarefullyandsewtotheunderwaist.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
RIDINGHABIT.Spring1891
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentireBasque,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-back,Under-armGore,CollarandtwoSleeveportions.DraftandmakeupthesameasallotherBasques.
TheSkirtisgivenonpages128and129.Draftbythescalecorresponding
TheSkirtisgivenonpages128and129.DraftbythescalecorrespondingwiththeWaistmeasure.Takeupthedartsasrepresented.Putthepartstogetheraccordingtothestarsandnotches.Finishthebottomwithawidehem.Whenoffthehorse,loopuptheskirttowalkinglengthwithacordattachedtothewaist-band.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
YOUNGLADIES’EVENINGCOSTUME.Spring1891
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsotupperandunderfrontandback,sidebackandunder-arm-gore.Turndowntheupperfrontandbackandshirrontheseconddottedline.Laythepleatsatthebottomaccordingtothenotches.Sewtheunderbackandsidebacktogetherbeforebastingtheupperbackon.
Thesleevesaresimplyapieceoflaceorsamematerialasthewaistgatheredveryfullonthetop,caughtupwithabowofribbonsorrozettetocorrespondwiththeskirt.Thediagramfortheskirtisshownonpage132.Usethescale
withtheskirt.Thediagramfortheskirtisshownonpage132.Usethescalecorrespondingwiththewaistmeasure.Itconsistsofbackandfront.Laythepleatsaccordingtothenotches,makingtheskirtthedesiredlengthinfront.Thebackissimplysidepleatsturningtowardsthecenteroftheback.Thismaybemadeentirelyseparatefromtheskirtproperifpreferred.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’EVENINGGOWN.Spring1894
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentirewaist,whichconsistsofFront,Back,Side-backandUnder-arm-gore.
Thisisashortpointedbasque,cutlow-necked.Theneckmaybecutsquare,pointed,orremainrounding.Finishwithalacebertha.Gatherthelaceinthearmholetoformshortsleeves.Closeinfrontinvisibly.
TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Isinfourpieces,Front,Backand
TheSkirtisdraftedbythewaistmeasure.Isinfourpieces,Front,BackandtwoSide-gores,puttogtherasmarked.Trimtosuit.
Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure,
LADIES’SACKNIGHTDRESS.Winter1890-91
Usethescalecorrespondingwiththebustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarment,whichconsistsoffourpieces:Front,back,sleeveandcuff.
Thisisdraftedoutthesameasallothergarments.Gatherthesleeveatthebottomandsewtothecuff,andgatherbetweenthenotchesatthetopandsewinthearm’seys.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
thearm’seys.Regulatethelengthbythetapemeasure.
LADIES’NIGHTGOWN.Spring1893
Ladies’HalfFittingNightGown.
UsethescalecorrespondingwiththeBustmeasuretodrafttheentiregarmentwhichconsistsofFront,Back,twoYokeportions,Collar,SleeveandCuff.
TrimthelowerpartoftheYokewithembroidery,alsobringitovertheshoulder,sewitinwiththesleeve.Theeffectisverypretty.TheYokemaybemadeoftucksandinsertion.TrimtheCollarwithembroideryalso.
Regulatethelengthbythetape-measure.
DOVERBOOKSONFASHION
HATS:AHISTORYOFFASHIONINHEADWEAR,HildaAmphlett.(0-486-42746-3)
EVERYDAYFASHIONSOFTHETWENTIESASPICTUREDINSEARSANDOTHERCATALOGS,EditedbyStellaBlum.(0-486-24134-3)EVERYDAYFASHIONSOFTHETHIRTIESAsPICTUREDINSEARSCATALOGS,EditedbyStellaBlum.(0-486-25108-X)THEHISTORYOFUNDERCLOTHES,C.WillettCunningtonandPhillisCunnington.(0-486-27124-2)WOMEN’SHATS,HEADDRESSESANDHAIRSTYLES:WITH453ILLUSTRATIONS,MEDIEVALTOMODERN,GeorginedeCourtais.(0-486-44850-9)HISTORICCOSTUMESANDHOWTOMAKETHEM,MaryFernaldandE.Shenton.(0-486-44906-8)
WHATPEOPLEWORE:1,800ILLUSTRATIONSFROMANCIENTTIMESTOTHEEARLYTWENTIETHCENTURY,DouglasGorsline.(0-486-28162-0)AUTHENTICVICTORIANDRESSMAKINGTECHNIQUES,EditedbyKristinaHarris.(0-486-40485-4)
AUTHENTICVICTORIANFASHIONPATTERNS:ACOMPLETELADY’SWARDROBE,EditedbyKristinaHarris.(0-486-40721-7)MEDIEVALCOSTUMEANDHOWTORECREATEIT,DorothyHartley.(0-486-42985-7)
PICTORIALENCYCLOPEDIAOFHISTORICCOSTUME:1200FULL-COLORFIGURES,AlbertKretschmerandKarlRohrbach.(0-486-46142-4)ACCESSORIESOFDRESS:ANILLUSTRATEDENCYCLOPEDIA,KatherineLesterandBessViolaOerke.(0-486-43378-1)THECORSETANDTHECRINOLINE:ANILLUSTRATEDHISTORY,W.B.Lord.(0-486-46186-6)
EVERYDAYFASHIONSOFTHEFORTIESAsPICTUREDINSEARSCATALOGS,EditedbyJoAnneOlian.(0-486-26918-3)EVERYDAYFASHIONSOFTHEFIFTIESAsPICTUREDINSEARSCATALOGS,EditedbyJoanneOlian.(0-486-42219-4)EVERYDAYFASHIONS,1909-1920,AsPICTUREDINSEARSCATALOGS,EditedbyJoAnneOlian.(0-
1920,AsPICTUREDINSEARSCATALOGS,EditedbyJoAnneOlian.(0-486-28628-2)VICTORIANANDEDWARDIANFASHIONSFROM“LAMODEILLUSTRÉE”,JoAnneOlian.(0-486-29711-X)FULL-COLORSOURCEBOOKOFFRENCHFASHION:15THTO19THCENTURIES,PauquetFrères.(0-486-42838-9)ANILLUSTRATEDDICTIONARYOFHISTORICCOSTUME,JamesRobinsonPlanché.(0-486-42323-9)
60CIVILWAR-ERAFASHIONPATTERNS,KristinaSeleshanko.(0-486-46176-9)
SeeeveryDoverbookinprintatwww.doverpublications.com