awaken your sensesand memories with spanish rosemary

learn all about hydrosols and infused waters

welcome to the woody family

WINTER EDITION 2016

winterWINTER EDITION 2016

THIS ISSUE

Winter cover:Cocoa ButterTheobrama cacaoRich emollient properties make Cocoa Butter an excellent cosmetic ingredient. When incorporated in creams, balms or body butters, it can help to improve skin elasticity and promotes a healthy complexion. Its protective action minimises moisture loss and maintains a smooth, soft skin feel. Available in Certified Organic. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

04 Harvest: Rosemary oil (Spain) Two excellent Chemotypes to choose from

12 Up Close: Hydrosols and Infused Waters

Water based raw materials 16 Essential Oils: Woody Family Your guide to essential oil

aroma classification 20 News: New CO2 Extracts Scents to excite you … 22 Product Specification:

Rosemary CT Cineole oil (Spain) Specification for manufacturers

23 Formulation: Winter Wellness Body Balm Featuring Rosemary CT Cineole oil (Spain)

With the cooler months coming, it is definitely the perfect time to consider curling up under a warm blanket with something new to read … and this issue of Oily is the perfect thing! Our Harvest article takes you to Spain’s Mediterranean coast where Rosemary thrives in the sunny, mountainous environment. We embrace the Woody Aroma Family of essential oils that are great to use during Winter as they support your wellbeing and offer restorative properties. Plus, we have some exciting new CO2 extracts for you to fall in love with – Coconut and Coffee. Yes, they are as divine as they sound! So, take a moment to find a comfy spot, pull up the covers and enjoy some quiet, quality reading time. Lucille Wilson, Editor

HARVEST

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Reconnect with Rosemary An essential oil valuable for more than just remembrance.

The Spanish Region of Murcia, located on the Mediterranean coast, enjoys many warm summer days with clear blue skies. Agriculture in the area thrives and it is the perfect climatic environment to grow Rosmarinus officinalis.

Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner, Esencias Martinez Lozano, produces world class Rosemary essential oil that is available in two different chemotypes – Camphor and Cineole.

Mediterranean Origins The robust perennial herb originates from the coastal regions of the Mediterranean Sea. European countries such as Greece, Italy, France and Spain along with North African countries, Egypt, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco all have a deep history of utilising Rosemary in different cultural applications.

The name Rosemary is derived from the Latin words ros and marinus. Simply translated this means ‘dew of the sea’ which is a fitting title considering its inclination for shoreline growth.

In Greek mythology, it is said that the goddess Aphrodite was adorned in the herb’s greenery and ancient Greek scholars wore Rosemary head wreaths to improve their memory.

During the European Middle Ages, the herb was regularly kept in households to help ward off evil spirits and negativity. It was also believed to protect against the black plague, as it kept the home clean and pest-free.

The plant’s connection to commemoration has been present for centuries across many cultures. From Ancient Egyptians to English aristocracy, Rosemary sprigs have been laid on coffins during burial ceremonies. Here in Australia, we remember our fallen soldiers by wearing Rosemary on Anzac Day and Remembrance Day.

There is even a reference to the herb in Shakespeare’s play Hamlet. It features the quote from Ophelia, “There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance. Pray you, love, remember.”

Medicinally, Rosemary has been used to help ease headaches, muscular pains and joint conditions such as arthritis and rheumatism. And the potent scent was incorporated into the cologne worn by Napoleon Bonaparte. >

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HARVEST

Above: Rosmarinus officinalis is a member of the Lamiaceae plant family. Both chemotypes of Rosemary produce small flowers that can vary in colour from white to pale purple-blue. Clockwise from below left: Harvesting is undertaken by hand, utilising a traditional sickle style cutter. Wild growing Rosemary CT Camphor plant material is collected and prepared for steam distillation. Rosemary CT Cineole harvested from local farms is transported to the processing facility. Chalky soil is one of the key factors that allows for successful Rosemary farming. The region’s Mediterranean climate is perfect for agriculture.

Today, Rosemary is one of the most popular essential oils used in natural therapies, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, flavour and fragrance development.

Growing Wild or Methodically FarmedThe two chemotypes of Rosmarinus officinalis produced by Esencias Martinez Lozano are sourced in different ways. Rosemary CT Camphor is a native species that is commonly found growing wild across the country, whereas Rosemary CT Cineole is an introduced sub-species that originated in North Africa.

Rosemary plants prefer a chalky soil that is close to the coast. High temperatures and medium levels of rainfall are the ideal conditions for optimal cultivation. Whether growing wild or in a professionally managed plantation, Rosemary has an exceptionally long life span, with potential to live well over 15 years with continual cycles of harvesting and regrowth.

Farmed Rosemary CT Cineole is initially established with small fresh cuttings that are propagated and planted in a formal structure. Specialised irrigation and modern farming methods are employed to maintain commercial quality and capacity.

Wild growing Rosemary CT Camphor relies on the environment to support the plants as they naturally regenerate. Rainfall patterns and the region’s geographical climate influence the herb’s successful growth.

Rosemary HarvestingIn Spain, the harvesting of Rosemary CT Cineole occurs each year in June. Methodical hand harvesting ensures the crop is cut effectively with skilled precision. All the aerial portion of the plant is removed, including the stem, leaves and flowers.

The native Rosemary CT Camphor is wild harvested by local farmers. The plants grow across the dry, mountainous landscape and can be continually collected throughout the year, although the major harvest period is in April and May. This hand harvesting involves the use of a traditional sickle-type instrument and the cut plant material is promptly shipped for essential oil processing. >

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HARVEST

Above: Rosemary CT Camphor is native to Spain. It grows in the rocky outcrops of the mountains along the coast. Clockwise from below left: Esencias Martinez Lozano has a modern steam distillation facility that extracts the freshly scented Rosemary essential oil from plantation crops. In the wild growth region, Rosemary CT Camphor is processed in traditional steam distillation units. Steam distillation extracts 1 kilogram of essential oil from approximately 120 to 200 kilograms of plant material. After each season the Rosemary plant regenerates. A single plant can live over 15 years with continual harvests.

HARVEST

Remember to keep a few drops of Rosemary handy for those times when

you need an extra boost! For a bulk quote or more information contact our

sales team on 02 9565 2828 or sales@seoc.com.au.

Steam distillation is the extraction method employed for both chemotypes of Rosemary oil. The Esencias Martinez Lozano facility is located in the heart of Murcia and readily processes each oil when the harvest has been completed. The average yield for Rosemary is less than 1% with approximately 120 to 200 kilograms of plant matter required to obtain 1 kilogram of the stimulating essential oil. Post distillation, the discarded plant material is further processed to extract rosmarinic and carnosic acids that are utilised in supplements and other food and non-food applications.

Rosemary CT CamphorThe resonating aroma of Rosemary CT Camphor immediately awakens the senses. With medicinal, camphorous notes, it has an energising effect both psychologically and physiologically.

This particular chemotype is ideal for massage applications as it offers excellent muscle relief when incorporated in a remedial or after sport treatment. It is also a great choice for bath soak formulations either in epsom salts or a water dispersible base oil.

Rosemary CT CineoleThe cineole content in Rosemary CT Cineole imparts an aromatic note that is clean and penetrating with a similarity to Eucalyptus. It is vibrant and enlivening, making it perfect for vaporising to clear the atmosphere. It is a common choice when developing natural cold and flu remedies as it provides significant benefit when used for inhalation or as a balm ingredient.

Both chemotypes offer an excellent astringent action and are suitable for use in cleansing body gels or facial toners. In haircare products the oil promotes healthy growth and improved scalp condition. It’s also ideal for men’s aftershave products, especially when paired with citrus notes such as Lime or Lemon. The naturally fresh aromatic profile of Rosemary also imparts a sense of cleanliness which makes it an ideal pairing for soap products. 1

Rosemary essential oil is an excellent addition to haircare formulations. It promotes strong healthy locks and acts as a stimulating tonic. The energising oil invigorates the scalp and helps to keep your hair looking fresh.

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UP CLOSE

13

Water is a common ingredient found in many

cosmetics and personal care products.

From emulsions,

such as creams, lotions and hair products, to foaming

cleansers, body washes and aloe based gels,

water plays a key role in their formulation.

&hydrosols infused waters

UP CLOSE

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WHAT IS A HYDROSOL?

A Hydrosol is the water that results from

the steam distilling process that extracts

essential oil from plant material. It is

sometimes also called a hydrolate or floral

water but the process by which it is

sourced is always steam distillation.

Hydrosols contain water soluble

elements from the plant material along

with microscopic particles of essential oil.

Here at SEOC, we have two Certified

Organic Hydrosols in our range that are

both sourced from our Bulgarian supply

partner, Enio Bonchev Productions Ltd.

Lavender Hydrosol has a rich, intense

aroma that is deeper and more

herbaceous than its associated essential

oil. After the Lavender oil separation, this

Hydrosol retains an essential oil content

between 0.08% and 0.2%. Linalool and

Linalyl Acetate, two constituents within

this essential oil content, play an

important role as a natural preservative

enabling a longer shelf life and overall

stability.

Rose Otto Hydrosol Super is unique and

unlike other hydrosols products, in that no

essential oil is collected during the

extraction process. The production is

dedicated to only producing Hydrosol. The

fresh rose petals are steam distilled using

standard methods, however rather than

separating the sweet floral oil, the oil

remains intact, resulting in a powerfully

scented water. Rose Otto Hydrosol Super

has an essential oil content between

0.08% to 0.12% and like Lavender

Hydrosol, has a natural preservative with

the Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol constituent.

WHAT IS AN INFUSED WATER?

An Infused Water tends to be aromatically

milder than a Hydrosol, but the aroma

profile is identical to the specific essential

oil. A proprietary method of manufacture

sees the essential oil infused into the

water producing a characteristically

scented, ready-to-use ingredient.

SEOC’s range of Infused Waters are

manufactured utilising reverse osmosis

purified water and pure essential oil.

They are not preserved and remain

aromatically vibrant and commercially

stable when maintained in optimal

conditions. Their manufacture date is

recorded against each individual batch

and their shelf life is subject to the manner

in which they are stored. Decanting into

smaller vessels is recommended once a

large pack size has been opened and

partially used.

CHOOSING TO USE HYDROSOL

OR INFUSED WATER

You will receive a number of benefits from

incorporating Hydrosols or Infused Waters

into your natural cosmetic formulation.

Firstly, they impart a very gentle aroma

to your product. For formulations that

require a low level of scent this is an

excellent, economical option. The results

are subtle and are perfect for people who

prefer to use lightly scented cosmetics.

Hydrosols and Infused Waters also offer

mild aromatherapeutic benefits and are a

great way to introduce aromatherapy to

children, the elderly, or people with

sensitivities.

In addition, if you are seeking to obtain

Australian Certified Organic (ACO) status

on your product, formulating with SEOC’s

Certified Organic Hydrosols in place of

water can elevate your organic

percentage, as the Hydrosol is calculated

in the overall organic content of the

product, as opposed to water that cannot

be included.

HOW DO YOU FORMULATE?

As a Hydrosol or Infused Water is a direct

replacement for standard water, you

formulate the same way, simply substitute

the aqueous content.

Hydrosol or Infused Water are also safe

for use directly on the skin, so they’re often

employed as face or body spritzers in a spray

bottle, facial toners, or after sun treatments.

When choosing a Hydrosol or Infused

Water, you should also consider the

cosmetic nutrient benefits. Select the

best one for your product based on the

specific action that aligns with the

essential oil properties. For example,

Rose Otto Hydrosol Super is excellent for

mature skin as it offers a moisturising and

revitalising action. Peppermint Infused

Water is a great choice for after sun

cooling and Tea Tree Infused Water will

help balance oily skin conditions.

EXTRA CONSIDERATIONS

Water based ingredients can degrade

over time particularly if the original

packaging has been opened. It is

important to review your storage methods

when purchasing bulk volumes. If you

choose to add your own preservative this

can extend the shelf life. To obtain an

accurate best before date professional

laboratory testing is required.

For bulk quotes or more information about

our Hydrosols and Infused Waters please contact

our sales team at sales@seoc.com.au or

call 02 9565 2828.

Learn more about these great ingredients and how they can enhance your

formulations.

ESSENTIAL OILS

the woodyfamily

introducing:

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As we continue to explore the olfactive classifications of essential oil aromas, in this issue we look at members of the Woody Family.

Characteristics of the Woody FamilyWoody Family essential oils are sourced from different plant parts including wood, branches, resin, leaves or roots and characteristically have warm, long-lasting aromas. Their resonant base note action is important for scent developers and natural perfumers. With a deep, rich presence, Woody oils help to ground an essential oil blend or perfume whilst offering centring and balancing properties to the mind and body. Aromatherapists often select essential oils from this group to promote calm and support meditation. They are renowned for soothing the soul and restoring harmony.

Essential Oils to know from the Woody Family 1. Cedarwood steam distilled > wood from trunks and branchesAvailable in Atlas, Himalayan and Virginian varieties, Cedarwood’s aroma differs by type. The Atlas and Himalayan oils have a sweet, lush woody scent with a hint of balsamic notes, whereas the Virginian oil is a milder aroma with dry, forest-like tones. Cedarwood oil is recognised for its warming and soothing effect. It can help quiet the mind and reduce excess nervous tension. In skincare, it offers an astringent action beneficial for oily skin. It’s also a great tonic for the hair and scalp when used as an ingredient in shampoo or conditioner. >

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Support your mind and your body with essential oils that centre your spirit and ground you in times of unrest.

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ESSENTIAL OILS

2. Cypresssteam distilled > needles, twigs and young branchesThe clear, slightly spicy, woody aroma of Cypress provides an impressive middle to base note in blends with Aromatic and Citrus family oils, such as Juniperberry, Lemon or Rosemary. When incorporated into a vaporiser blend, it can help minimise anger or highly emotional states, whilst freeing the mind from psychic blocks. Cypress has a strong influence over the body’s fluids and is ideal for use in massage treatments to support the circulatory system. Cosmetically, Cypress is a beneficial deodorant that can help reduce perspiration. It is also a suitable for oily skin cleansers, as it offers toning and astringent properties.

3. Frankincense steam distilled > gum resinsMany people have a spiritual connection to Frankincense. The sweet, woody, almost haunting aroma is renowned for its ability to calm the thoughts and promote a meditative state. Aromatherapists love to utilise it in respiratory treatments and it is a valuable ingredient for women, as it can act as a uterine tonic. Recognised for its excellent anti-ageing benefits, Frankincense is a go-to for mature skin formulations and is ideal for moisturisers or facial serums.

4. Myrrh steam distilled > gum resin from bark and woodMyrrh oil is another spiritual scent that is referenced extensively throughout history. The warm, dry, slightly spicy aroma is well-known for its use in religious ceremonies. It is particularly effective for lifting emotional heaviness and apathy. Similar to Frankincense, Myrrh is often a choice for therapists when supporting the respiratory system, as it has functional expectorant properties. In skincare applications, Myrrh offers a beneficial antiseptic action that helps to keep the complexion fresh and clean. It is also a great inclusion to foot care products, as it is said to combat athlete’s foot.

5. Patchouli steam distilled > dried leavesThe deep, earthy, woody aroma of Patchouli oil is a popular perfumery ingredient. Grounding and acting as a fixative for other lighter top notes, its presence is unmistakable. Patchouli oil is often used to settle emotional imbalances and create a calm mental state. When incorporated into a cosmetic formulation, Patchouli imparts a cooling effect helping to reduce aggravated redness in the complexion. It’s also noted for its ability to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, promoting soft and supple skin.

6. Sandalwood steam distilled > heartwood Sandalwood’s appeal is undeniable. It is one of the most popular Woody Family oils. With a sweet, almost honey-like scent, it has a rich, luxurious quality that resonates through essential oil blends and natural perfumes. The relaxing quality of Sandalwood encourages restorative sleeping patterns and soothes tense or nervous situations. Its skin softening effect makes it perfect for dehydrated or ageing skin types and performs wonderfully in creams, lotions and body butters.

7. Vetiver steam distilled > rootsWith a rich, dark brown colour and smoky, earthy wood aroma, Vetiver is a compelling essential oil. When blending with this scent, moderation is important as it can overpower lighter aromatic notes. As with other oils in this group, Vetiver is grounding and balancing. It helps equalise over-sensitivity or irritability and is said to alleviate PMS and menopausal symptoms. It’s often utilised in massage applications and cosmetic formulations that boost the moisture content of the skin.

Blending with Woody Aromas Woody Family essential oils are excellent base notes for blends. They ground the aroma profile and assist with scent throw and longevity. Their fixative action is important when working with Citrus or light Floral aromas. We suggest experimenting with your blend as often only low percentages are needed to achieve impressive results. 1For more information about our aroma families please visit our website seoc.com.au

or contact our customer service team on 02 9565 2828.

NEWS

COCONUT CO2 EXTRACT

– CERTIFIED ORGANIC ACO

Warm, nutty and sweet like fresh coconut,

Coconut CO2 Extract imparts a lush, buttery

quality with delicious gourmand notes. The

exotic, tropical scent profile makes Coconut

CO2 Extract a highly sought after choice for

aroma developers wanting to create a

natural scent in their perfumistic blend or

natural cosmetic product. This scented oil

soluble liquid is extracted from the pulp of

Certified Organic Cocos nucifera fruit

through a two-step supercritical carbon

dioxide process. Retaining many of the

fatty acids found in the carrier oil, the

extract offers a range of benefits that can

enhance the cosmetic effect of a product

formulation. In particular, the Lauric and

Myristic acids are key components that assist

a moisturising, skin softening action.

Incorporating Coconut CO2 Extract into

creams, body butters and other emulsion

based cosmetics will produce impressive

results. Balms, serums and perfumery

products will also be elevated with the

distinctive aromatic quality that blends well

with citrus, floral and green scent notes.

FORMULATOR’S NOTE: this extract can

solidify in cooler temperatures but is easily

liquefied by placing the bottle in a warm

water bath.

COFFEE CO2 EXTRACT

– CERTIFIED ORGANIC ACO

Derived from roasted Arabica coffee beans,

the intense Certified Organic Coffee CO2

Extract has a rich, opulent aroma and

deserves to hold a unique position in the

fragrance ingredient collection of any

blender.

The dark brown colour and strong coffee

scent offer a striking effect to natural

cosmetics and perfumery. It is the perfect

addition to create a luxurious and aromatic

point of difference in a personal care

product range.

Offering substantial anti-ageing

properties, Coffee CO2 Extract is ideal for

use in facial serums and other oil based

cosmetics designed for highly targeted

results. Its stimulating effect can assist in

smoothing the skin when included in body

butters, creams or lighter lotions.

The unisex appeal of the coffee aroma

also creates the opportunity to enhance

men’s aftershave products and natural

colognes.

The gourmand nature of the scent profile

is ideal for pairing with other warm wood,

balsamic or earthy notes such as patchouli,

cedarwood, vanilla or oakmoss. 1

For more information, pack sizes and pricing

visit seoc.com.au today.

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Gourmand coconut & coffee aromas Our range of highly active CO2 Extracts continues to evolve with the addition of two outstanding aromas...

Creams keep your skin soft and protected during cold Winter months. Customise a SEOC base to make your own moisturising product.

2322

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FORMULATION

Winter Wellness Body BalmPerformance: warming, soothing balm to help support wellness during winter months. Appearance: soft, yellow balm with a luxurious matt finish.Aroma: herbaceous, clean aroma with warm undertones.Stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: apply directly chest area when required.

Method of Manufacture1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well. Allow to synergise for 30 minutes.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70°C.3. Allow to cool to 50°C.4. Add Phase C to Phase B and mix well.5. Add Phase A to mixture while stirring constantly.6. Allow to cool to room temperature in jar before sealing lid.

For ingredients contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim

and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

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Phase Raw Material % w/w

A Rosemary CT Cineole oil (Spain) 0.65

Lavender oil (Bulgaria) 0.6

Marjoram Sweet oil (Egypt) 0.25

Frankincense Olibanum oil (Somalia) 0.25

Cedarwood Atlas oil (Morocco) 0.2

Melissa oil – Certified Organic 0.05

B Castor oil – Certified Organic 30

Apricot Kernel oil 28

Jojoba oil – Certified Organic 17

Cocoa butter – Certified Organic 12

Beeswax – Certified Organic 9

C Natural Tocopherol 50 (Vitamin E 50) 2

100% w/w

Product Rosemary CT Cineole oil (Spain)

Botanical Name: Rosmarinus officinalis

Origin: Spain

Appearance: Clear free flowing liquid

Colour: Pale straw yellow

Odour: Characteristic

Plant part used: Flowering tops and leaves

Extraction method: Steam distillation

Physio-chemical properties

Specific Gravity @ 20°C: 0.8950 – 0.9200

Refractive Index @ 20°C: 1.4590 – 1.4790

Optical Rotation: +8.00° to -8.00°

Flash Point: ≥40°C – ≤50°C

Oil components

1.8 Cineole 30% to 60%

a-Pinene 8% to 18%

Camphor 5% to 15%

Camphene 2% to 10%

d-Limonene Trace to 8%

Borneol Trace to 6%

Other InformationPackaging: As required.Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. Handling: Well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition.Shelf Life: Three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions).

For more information contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

Typical Analysis

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Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. ABN 16 600 890 248

11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia

PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order online www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

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recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.

Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests.

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