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Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page # i

Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer

Definition of Terms

The use of the word “Information” includes any and all information contained within this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual, including, but not limited to text, images, graph‐ics, diagrams, and references.

“Guide” means this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual.

“User” means any individual or entity who utilizes this Guide for any purpose.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF INHERENT RISKS

By using the Guide, User acknowledges the inherent risks associated with experimental and amateur‐built aircraft and aviation, including bodily injury or death. Backcountry Super Cubs, LLC and its members, officers, directors, agents, employees, and their heirs, succes‐sors and assigns (collectively, “BCS”) has no control over, and assumes no responsibility for, User’s ability to successfully construct and test the User’s completed aircraft, with or with‐out the use of the Guide.

User acknowledges that the FAA and/or other knowledgeable persons should inspect the aircraft at construction intervals, as well as the completed project, prior to flight and that User should work with his local FAA representative regarding the construction and licens‐ing of the aircraft. User, on behalf of itself and its successors and assigns, agrees to comply with all FAA regulations regarding the construction, licensing, and operation of the com‐pleted aircraft, including but not limited to obtaining and maintaining all appropriate li‐censes and ratings prior to operating the completed aircraft.

NO WARRANTY

ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS INTENDED TO BE SOLELY EDUCATIONAL AND REC‐REATIONAL IN NATURE, AND IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW. BCS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES AND CONDITIONS, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, IN‐CLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NONINFRINGEMENT, STRUCTURAL INTEG‐RITY, PERFORMANCE, FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS, OR SAFETY OF THE USER’S COM‐PLETED AIRCRAFT AND ITS COMPONENT PARTS, WITH OR WITHOUT USE OF THE GUIDE. THE ENTIRE RISK ARISING FROM USE OF ANY INFORMATION IN THE GUIDE RE‐MAINS WITH THE USER.

Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page # ii

Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer (continued)

NO ENDORSEMENT

ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT ENDORSEMENT OF ANY KIND EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INTENTIONAL OR UNINTENTIONAL BY BCS.

NO LIABILITY FOR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.

TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, IN NO EVENT SHALL BCS BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAM‐AGES WHATSOEVER (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, EMOTIONAL DAMAGES, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF BUSINESS PROFITS, BUSINESS INTERRUPTION, LOSS OF BUSINESS INFORMATION, OR ANY OTHER PECUNIARY OR EQUITABLE LOSS) ARISING OUT OF THE USE OF OR INABILITY TO USE THE GUIDE.

LIMITATION OF LIABILITY

BCS’s ENTIRE LIABILITY AND USER’S EXCLUSIVE REMEDY FOR ANY DAMAGES ARISING FROM USE OF THE GUIDE SHALL NOT EXCEED THE ACTUAL AMOUNT PAID BY USER FOR THE GUIDE.

Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page #1

Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date

#1 Introduction

Unpacking & inventory

Required Tools & Work Area

Techniques & Torque values

Construction standards

#2 Airframe Assembly

Trim System

Jack screw sub‐assembly

Jack screw install

Rear trim indicator pulley

Trim cable

Trim system fairleads

Trim plate

Trim handle & front pulleys

Trim indicator cable

Trim indicator

Balance cable sub‐assembly

Rudder –Cleaning bushings

Rudder –Bushing install

Rudder –Temporary install

Stringers

Top

Bottom & sides

Vertical fin

Elevator balance cable bracket

Vertical fin radius (Saddle)

Floor boards

Board Map

Rear & front baggage

Front seat fitting

Torque tube thread cleaning

Front floor boards

12

13

18‐20

20‐21

35

21

22

23‐24

25

26

27

23‐25

26

27

28‐30

34

36

39

33‐35

39

36

37

38

38

40‐41

1.0

1.0

1.2

1.2

1.2

1.2

1.2

1.2

1.2

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.2

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

July 2008

May 2009

May 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

April 2009



Rudder Controls

Pedals install

Pulleys & cables

Flap cables

Elevator cables

Torque tube

Rudder cable s to pedals

Fair leads

Lift strut pulleys

Brake System

Brake reinforcement plate

Pedals

Connecting pedals together

Master cylinder install

Reservoir

Gear legs

Fuel System

Fuel system switch modification

Fuel line routing

Electrical System

Battery cables & ground wires

Wiring Map

Interior panels

#3 Wing Assembly

Introduction

Removing flaps & ailerons

Fuel tanks

Landing lights

Wiring

Fuel lines & auxiliary pump

Pitot line

Drilling for rivets

Flap & aileron install

39‐41

43‐44

42

43

45‐46

47

48

48

49

49‐50

51

51‐52

52‐53

54‐57

58‐59

60‐63

64‐66

67

68‐75

76

76

77‐80

80‐85

86‐88

89‐90

91

92‐93

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.2

1.2

1.0

1.1

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.1

1.0

1.1

1.1

1.0

1.0

1.0

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

April 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

May 2009

April 2009

June 2008

April 2009

November 2007

November 2007

April 2009

April 2009

May 2009



#4 Fabric Covering

Map

#5 After paint assembly

Landing gear

Tail wheel

Stabilizer

Tail brace wires

Elevators

Rudder

Tail control cables

Instrument panel

Glass installation

Main wheels & brakes

Brake lines

#6 Firewall forward

Engine install

Cowling

Baffling

Other items firewall forward

#7 Wing install

Lift struts & tie down rings

Jury struts

Flaps & Ailerons

Connecting Flaps & Ailerons

Connecting Fuel & Pitot lines

#8 Finishing Trim

Interior panel trim

Wiring outside of panel

Wing root fairings

Inspection cover plates

“N” Number & Required Placards

#9 Before Flight Information

Log Books

Weight & Balance

Ground Run & Taxi Test

Safety equipment

FAA Inspection

How to break‐in a new engine

94‐97

97‐99

100‐109

110‐115

116‐120

120‐122

123‐127

128‐137

137‐146

147‐148

Video

Video

149‐151



#10 First Flight

What to expect

Fine tune your rigging

Phase 1 flight testing

Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0

–Page #5

Fuselage Group

Part # Description Amount

F1 Fuselage Assembly (welded & Power Coated) 1

F2 Jack Screw 1

F3 Jack Screw Yoke 1

F4 Jack Screw Tube 1

F5 Jack Screw Pulley (Large 2 Groove) 1

F6 Jack Screw Key 1

F7 Trim Cable Rear Idler Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1

F8 Trim Cable Front Drive Pulley (2 Groove) 1

F9 Trim Indicator Fairleads 5

F10 Trim Cable Front Idler Pulley

Bracket 1 3/4" (Dual Door) 1

F11 Top Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1

F12 Lower Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1

F16 Oil Light Bushings (12 small & 6 long) 1

F17 Hinges Engine‐side Cowls (2" x 26") 2

F18 Bag Door Hinges (1 1/2" x 24") 1

F19 Control Stick Torque Tube 1

F20 Control Stick connecting Rod 1

F21 Control Sticks 2

F22 Control Stick Pivots 2

F23 Hardware Bolt Kit (Airframe) 1

F25 Rudder Pedals 4

F26 Rudder Pedal Saddles 8

F27 Brake Pedals 2

F28 Brake Pedal Saddles 4

F29 Brake Pedal Blocks 4

F30 Brake Reinforcement Plate 1

F31 Floor Board 2 Hole Mount Plate 14

F32 Set Floor Boards (4 pc) 1

F33 Front Seat Assembly (Top & Bottom) 1

F35 Lower Aileron Cable Connecting Link

(At the Control Stick) 2

F36 Upper Aileron Cable Connecting Link 2

F37 Brake Interconnect Rods (24 1/2" threaded) 2

F37B Rod Ends & Jam Nuts (XM3) for F37 4

F38 Large Fairleads 19

F39 Rear seat Crossbar 1

F40 Baggage Door 1

F41 Fuselage Stringers 6

F42 1 3/4" Pulleys 12

F43 2 3/4" Pulleys 5

F44 1" Pulleys (5 with upper rear baggage door) 3

F15 Front Elevator Cable Pulley (3") 1

F45 Boot Cowl w/reinforcements, instrument

panel tabs (6) 1

Engine Cowl Angle Mounts (4)

F45B Side Cheeks (just behind boot cowl) left & right 2

Fuselage Group


F46 Windshield 1

F47 Windshield Trim Strips 2

F47B Rear Side window front trim strips 2

F48 Windshield side Trim Strips 2

F48B Skylight front & rear trim strip 2

F48C L21 rear upper side glass trim strip 2

F49 Throttle Cover (Single Door Only) 1

F50 Throttle Handles 2

F50B Throttle Handle Balls 2

F51 Throttle Connecting Rod 1

F52 Flap Lever Assembly 1

F53 Flap Lever Pivot Shaft 1

F54 Flap Cam Detent 1

F56 Instrument Panel 1

F57 Engine Mount Saddles 4

F58 Engine Mount (Check options) 1

F59 Engine Cowl Support Channels 4

F60 Side‐Cowl Doors 2

F61 Side Cowl Door Formers 2

F62 Nose Bowl 1

F63 Top Cowl 1

F64 Bottom Cowl 1

F64B Air scoop (check options) 1

F64C small air scoops (air exit) 2

F65 Entrance step (2 for double door) 1

F66 Upper Door (check options) 1

F67 Lower Door (check options) 1

F68 Trim Cable Tensioned Spring 1

F69 Elevator Balance Cable Spring 1

F70 Trim Handle & Bearing Kit 1

F73 Brake Master Cylinder (check options) 2

F74 Fuel Site Gauges (check options) 2

F75 Carb Heat Air Box (check options) 1

F76 Torque Tube Caps 2

F77 Flap Button 1

F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1

F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1

F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1

Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0 –Page #6


Fuselage Group Cont.

F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1

F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1

F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1

Wing Group

W1 Wing Assembly R & L 2

W2 Fuel Tanks 2

W4 Fuel Tank Covers 2

W9 Flap Assembly 2

W11 Flap Bell crank Rods 2

W12 Aileron Assembly 2

W18 Lift Struts 4

W18B Lift Strut Forks 4

W19 Droop Tips (Square Only) 2

W20 Lower Aileron Cable Bracket (2 pcs) & Pulley (2 3/4) 2

W21 Landing Light Bulb Holder (set of 2) 4

W22 Landing Light Finishing Kit (see options) 2

W23 Front Jury Strut 2

W24 Rear Jury Strut 2

W25 Front Jury Strut Clamp 2

W26 Rear Jury Strut Clamp 2

W27 Jury Strut Spacer Bar 2

W28 Jury Strut Clamp Tab 4

Landing Gear

L1 Tail Spring Support 1

L2 Main Landing Gear Leg (left & right) 2

L3 Landing Gear Struts 2

L4 Cabane V 1

L5 Wheel Spacers 2

L6 Main Wheel & Brake Set 2

L7 Tail Wheel 1

L8 Tail Wheel Spring 1

L9 Axel Nuts 2


Tail Group

T1 Rudder 1

T2 Elevators 2

T3 Stabilizers 2

T4 Rear Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1

T5 Front Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1

T6 Vertical Fin 1

Cables Group

C1 Top Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2

C2 Lower Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2

C3 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable 1

C4 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable

Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1

C5 Top Elevator Cable at Turnbuckles and Frt. Link 1

C6 Bottom Elevator Cable 1

C7 Rudder Cables w/connecting Links 2

C8 Flap Cable w/2 turnbuckles 1

C9 Trim Ind. Cable 1

C10 Trim Cable (endless) 1

C11 Trim Indicator Cable Rear Stringer Brackets 2

Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs

Required Tools & Work Area –Page #12

When building your aircraft you will need enough space to

at least buildup and cover one wing at a time & have the

ability to move each component outside after completion.

There would be nothing worst then to build your aircraft

indoors and have no way of getting it outside.

To maximize your work area and reduce the need of a

helper we suggest getting a wing rotator, you will be able

to move the wings around the shop much easier and it

would make it much more ergonomically better for you

when working.

Your work area should be large enough so that you can

work around the total circumference of one wing at a time.

The work area should be well lit & free from debris. The

work table should be large enough to set your components

on in, make sure that it’s surface is clean at all times so that

none of your parts could get scratch or damaged.

NOTE: Before starting any part of your aircraft it is

STRONGLY SUGGESTED to have a camera around to take

photos of you doing work during each step of the construc‐

tion. It is best to get a notebook and make entries every day

that you are in the shop. The FAA prefers to have hand writ‐

ten entries and a signature at the end of each entry. Note

your start and finish time for each entry. This should prove

to the inspector that you were indeed the one who worked on

your aircraft and not another person or company. Having as

much proof in place will give the inspection process a more

positive result in your favor. Be detailed in the log book of

what and when you did the work. Remember that it is OK to

have friends or other people help you with the build, as long

as they are doing it as an amateur builder. Have them make

an entry in your log book for each day they help you.

Remember, you need to be in each picture. The FAA does not

care about the aircraft at this point, they only care about you

proving you did the work.

We have done our best to minimize the amount of tools

needed to build one of our aircraft and still keep within the

51% rule. We also tried our best to only use tools that are

easy to come by & reduced as much specialty tools

needed. How ever some specialty tools will save a ton of

time but with a cost. In the next page or so we will list the

tools that we used and list tools that would help reduce



Listed below are the AN Bolt, wrench & drill bit size re‐

quired to build your aircraft.

Bolt size Wrench Drill Torque

AN526‐ 1/4” #36

AN3‐ 3/16” #12 20‐25” lbs

AN4‐ 7/16” 1/4” 50‐70” lbs

AN5‐ 1/2” 5/16” 100‐140” lbs

AN6‐ 9/16” 3/8” 160‐190” lbs

AN7‐ 1” 7/16 450‐500” lbs

Torque wrench either inch lbs or foot lbs

A set of standard imperial wrenches

An index of fractional, numbered, and lettered drill bits

Plexiglass Drill bit

#11, 3/8”, 5/16” Ream

1/8‐26 NPT Tap

1/4” x 20 Tap

Cleco pliers

Clecos 3/32” & 1/8” (Copper & Zinc )

Strap duplicator * (hole finder)

#6 Nut plate drill jig

Countersink tool

Unibit drill “Step drill”

Deburring tool *

Phillips screw driver

Common head screw driver

Duck billed pliers

Nicopress pliers* or large pliers

Rivet gun

Rivet squeezer

Measuring tape

Rulers long & short

Caliper digital or analog

Spring clamps

Hack saw or power miter saw

Magic markers (fine point)

Acid brush

Paint brush



Electrical tape

Painter tape

Needle file

Flat file

Round file

Sand paper

Small round wooden dowel

Pinking shears ( Fabric scissors )

Safety wire twisters

Tubing cutter

Tubing bender

Tubing flange tool

Green & Red handle shears (snips)

Wire stripper

Fine tip & knife edge Soldering iron

Multi meter with continuity test

Level

5/32” Hex wrench ( Allen Key )

Rare earth magnets

Vacuum

Dremel tool

Fish scale

Hammer

Dead blow hammer

Hand held grinder

Band saw *

Punch tool

* tools that you don't have to buy but would make it much

easier to build your aircraft with.


Unpacking & Inventory –Page #15

When you receive your aircraft kit, the first thing that you

need to do is take your parts list check off sheet and check

off every part that you find in your kit.

If you are having a hard time recognizing an item you can

use our website’s packing list link to identify each part. Our

packing list shows in detail the part number, description,

amount required and a photo of every part that should be

shipped.

Note: Look over all parts and accessories for any possible

damages during shipment. The last thing you want is a set of

lift struts dented or bent.

If any of your parts have been damaged during shipment

please report it as soon as possible.

Hardware Descriptions & Torque Values Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs Quick Reference Guide –Page #16

AN BOLT TORQUE & DRILL SIZE CHART

The following torque valuse are derived

from oil free cadmium plated fine thread series.

Bolt Size W

asher Size Thin W

asher

Size

Lg. A

rea Flat

Washer

Nylon In

sert

Locknut

Castle Nut

Cotter Pin

Drill Size To

rque

Inch lbs

Torque Ft

lbs

AN3‐

AN960‐10

AN960‐10L

AN970‐3

AN365‐1032

AN310‐3

MS24665‐132

#12

20‐25

1.66‐2.08

AN4‐

AN960‐416 AN960‐416L

AN970‐4

AN365‐428

AN310‐4

MS24665‐138

1/4"

50‐70

4.16‐5.83

AN5‐

AN960‐516 AN960‐516L

AN970‐5

AN365‐524

AN310‐5

MS24665‐138

5/16"

100‐140

8.33‐11.66

AN6‐

AN960‐616 AN960‐616L

AN970‐6

AN365‐624

AN310‐6

MS24665‐283

3/8"

160‐190 13.33‐15.83

AN7‐

AN960‐716 AN960‐716L

AN970‐7

AN365‐720

AN310‐7

MS24665‐283

7/16"

450‐500

37.5‐41.66

Sample Part Number Descriptions

AN3‐4

Drilled shank use castle nut

AN3‐4A

Undrilled shank use locknut

AN3H‐4

Drilled head use castle nut

AN3H‐4A Drilled head & Shank use locknut

Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs

FAA Construction Standards –Page #17

The FAA Construction standards guide (AC43.13‐1B) can be purchased threw Aircraft spruce Part # 13‐11350.

We also offer this book on our website as a downloadable PDF.


Trim System –Page #18

Sub‐assemble Jack Screw

The 1st step in building the trim system is to prime and

paint the Balance Cable Bracket. The bracket shown in Fig‐

ure #21 will need to be pre‐bent around the Jack Screw

Yoke then removed before painting.

Use a spray can of rust resistant primer. Let dry then use a

spray can of paint to protect this bracket from any possible

rusting.

The bending process is shown in Figure #22 ‐ #25.

Figure #24

Figure #23 Figure #22

Figure #25

Figure #21



To install the Balance Cable Bracket on to the Jack Screw

Yoke, use a AN3‐7 bolt, AN310‐3 castle nut with two

AN960‐10 washers and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Assem‐

ble each part as shown in Figure #26

During the installation of the trim system you may find a

few parts that have paint buildup in unwanted areas. These

items will require paint to be removed before installation

can occur. Any paint buildup in the following areas will

make it impossible to install the Jack Screw and will cause

some unwanted binding.

The Jack Screw Tube will require this paint removal process

at its attachment points and at the grease nipple location.

To clean the attachment points it is suggested to use a

15/16 drill bit to remove the excess paint in the bolt hole

locations.

Use a 1/8‐27 NPT Tap to clean the Zerk fitting location.

You will need to buy a ( MS15003‐6 ) 90 degree Zerk fit‐

ting (Grease fitting) to install in to the Jack Screw Pipe. You

can buy these thru Aircraft Spruce.

Install the Zerk fitting in to the Jack Screw Pipe and have

the fitting pointing forward and offset either left or right of

the indicator cable location.

Place the Jack Screw Tube on to the Jack Screw Yoke, en‐

suring you have the yoke in the upward forward position

and have the tube ‘s Zerk fitting facing upward when in‐

stalling. Use two AN5‐7 bolts, two AN960‐516 washers,

two AN960‐516L washers and two MS24665‐136 cotter

pins.

Connect the Jack screw pipe and yoke together as shown in

Figure #27. The thicker washer will be set between the

Jack Screw pipe and yoke and the thinner washer will be

set between the pipe and the castle nut.

When securing each of the castle nuts turn the nuts snug

then slightly back off to the next hole on the castle nut.

Place a MS244665‐136 cotter pin in each of the bolts and

bend each cotter pin to complete the Jack Screw Yoke sub‐

assembly.

Before installing the jack screw shaft in to the airframe,

you will need to clean any paint that may be found in the

air frame’s Jack Screw bushings. We suggest using a small

round piece of dowel wrapped with sandpaper

Figure #27

Figure #26



To ensure that you don’t enlarge the bushing holes, clean

each bushing a small amount and check for correct fit. At

the bottom of the lower bushing you will need to file off

any excess paint to ensure a correct fit for the Jack Screw

pulley.

Lubricate both the Jack Screw and each bushing with am‐

ple amount of white lithium grease before inserting the

Jack Screw in position.

Jack Screw install

Spin the screw clockwise when inserting in to the bushings

to reduce any possible binding. When you are satisfied with

the fit of the Jack screw, remove the screw half way up

between the upper and lower bushings to install the Jack

Screw Yoke and pipe assembly. Spin the Jack screw in to

the yoke making sure that the Jack Screw Pipe is facing

forward. Insert a AN960‐616 washer between the lower

bushing and the base of the Screw. Then place the screw in

to the lower bushing. Place a AN960‐616L small washer at

the bottom of the bushing as shown in Figure #28.

Cutting Jack Screw Key

Then take a measurement from the bottom of the cotter

key hole to the bottom of the AN960‐516L washer. This

measurement will now be used to measure and mark the

top side of the Jack Screw Key. Place the key in a vise and

use a common file to cut the key down to size as shown in

Figure #29 . Make sure to file the top of the key level.

Figure #28

Figure #29



Place the key in to the Jack Screw to check for correct fit

between the key and the pulley. Place the two grove pulley

item #F8 in to place . The pulley should slide over the key

without much resistance as shown in Figure #30.

Endless trim cable install

Remove the pulley from the Jack Screw and place the end‐

less trim cable onto the pulley. Carefully unpack the cable

and lay it inside the airframe from the trim handle location

in the front of the airframe to the back of the Jack Screw.

Run the cable on the top groove of the pulley ,then loop

round the R/S rear pulley tab. Then take the cable and run

it back around L/S the lower pulley groove as shown in Fig‐

ure #31 . Run the remaining excess cable toward the front

of the aircraft.

Notice that the R/S lower groove cable will be crossing un‐

der the tension rear pulley cable.

Carefully place the pulley on to the Jack Screw and ensure

that the cables do not slip out of the grooves. Then insert

two AN960‐616 washers on the screw, then secure the

pulley with a AN310‐6 Castle Nut. Tighten the castle nut

snug, then use a MS24665‐140 cotter pin to complete the

Jack screw assembly as shown in Figure #32.

Figure #31

Figure #30

Figure #32



The next step is to clean the 1” pulley holes with a #11

reamer. If you skip this step you may find that when you

run your AN3‐7 bolt threw each pulley it may have a tight

fit. Install two 1” pulleys onto the airframe using a AN3‐7

bolt, AN960‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut and a

MS24665‐132 cotter pin. In each location be sure to have

the cable running under each pulley as shown in Figure

#33. Check to see that each pulley spins freely after assem‐

bly.

Fairlead Bushing install

Clean each of the large bushing slots found on the airframe

with a knife to allow the endless cable to slip inside each

fairlead. We suggest painting the inside of each bushing to

ensure that no rusting could occur. You can use a small

brush to paint each inner bushing. When painting is com‐

plete and dry, install the cable in to the bushings. You may

need to slightly bend the opening of each slotted bushing

with a common head screwdriver to slide the cable in to

position. Then install the plastic fairlead assemblies in to

each bushing. (each assembly will have 2 halves and 1

metal clip) There are a total of 4 large bushings that require

this step as shown in Figure #34 . Each of these fairleads

must be installed with the metal ring facing toward the

front of the aircraft.

Then install the 5 small fairlead bushings in the airframe.

These bushings are for the trim indicator cable.

Fit trim indicator plate

The next step is to install the trim indicator plate. To pro‐

tect the airframe’s paint use masking tape during the fit‐

ting process of this plate. There will be 3 areas you will

need to protect, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear of the plate

as shown in Figures #35 ‐ #36.

Note: The trim indicator plate is not part of the Aircraft

kit. If you decide that you would like Turbine Cubs of create

this plate you can be perched one for a small cost.

Figure #35

Figure #34

Figure #36

Figure #33



The trim indicator plate may need to be slightly trimmed to

fit in place. Mark with a magic marker the locations that

require trimming, an example is shown in Figure #37.

Use a file to cut down the unwanted material as shown in

Figure #38.

When the cover fits to your liking, mark the 2 securing

points, then mark the hole needed for the trim handle,

these locations are shown in Figure #39.

We marked both the inside & outside radius of the trim

handle as shown in Figure #40.

Figure #39

Figure #38

Figure #40

Figure #37



To ensure a correct measurement, measure the radius of

the trim handle bushing, as shown in Figure #41.

Take the measurement then divide in half. This will be the

center of the hole. Mark, then drill this location with a small

drill bit. Then use a step drill to enlarge the hole, show in

Figure #42.

To enlarge the hole to the needed size use a round file and

file to the marked line, as shown in Figure #43.

Figure #43

Figure #42

Figure #41



Trim Handle & Pulleys install

Find item #F70 (Trim Handle & Bearing Kit) shown in Fig‐

ure #44.

The first step is to install the lower bearing. This bearing

should slide in position with little force. Ensure you have

the bearing sitting flush with the bushing. Then install the

collar, place the crank handle in the lower bearing and col‐

lar then place the top bearings into position. Press down on

the bearing so that they fit flat in the trim crank bushing.

Place a washer on top of the bearing, then run the small pin

in to the trim handle post.

Install the Trim cable front idler pulley bracket. This assem‐

bly will require a AN3‐5A Bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers & 1

AN365‐1032 locknut.

Place a washer on to the head of the bolt, run the bolt

through the pulley bracket and place the bracket on to the

airframe. The opening of the bracket will be pointing for‐

ward, run the bolt through and place the 2nd washer onto

the bolt, then install the locknut. Tighten with 3/8

wrenches.

Loop the endless trim cable around the pulley by first start‐

ing from the top L/S of the front pulley then run the cable

toward the 2nd pulley location. Then run the cable forward

(left lower groove) of the front pulley. With the small 1 3/4

pulley in hand, place a AN3‐5 bolt and a AN960‐3 washer

on to the rear pulley bracket and place the pulley in to the

bracket. Use a AN960‐3 washer on the backside of the

bracket and then the AN310‐3 castle nut with a MS24665‐

132 cotter pin and then bend in to position. Your final as‐

sembly should look like Figure #45.

Run the endless trim cable around the Rear Idler Pulley.

Then install the pulley in the Bracket item #F7 with a 1 3/4”

pulley. It will require the same hardware as previous AN3‐5

bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a

MS24665‐132 cotter spin.

Once assembled, use item #C12 spring and secure spring

on to the bracket and then to the airframe as shown in Fig‐

ure #46.

When completed check the operation of the trim system.

You should be able to turn the handle and watch the Jack

Screw yoke travel all the way up and down with no resis‐

tance.

Figure #44

Figure #45

Figure #46



Install the trim indicator cable . Start from the front of the

aircraft route the cable threw each of the 5 small fairleads.

Install a small black nicopress sleeve on the end of the ca‐

ble. Then make a small loop in the cable, run the end of the

cable back through the nicopress sleeve, use a pair of pliers

to bond the wire together, as shown in Figure #47.

The final out come should look like Figure #48.

Run the cable through the top of the rear trim indicator

pulley and downward to the Jack Screw tube.

Trim indicator cable install

Place a AN960‐10 washer onto a AN3‐6 bolt, then run the

bolt half way through the jackscrew trim indicator, then

loop the cable around the bolt, run the bolt through the

bracket, place a AN960‐10L washer, spin on a AN380‐3

castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.

The final assembly will look like Figures #49.

Figure #47

Figure #48

Figure #49



Trim indicator post install

To make the trim indicator , you will need a scrap piece of

stainless steel and cut it down to size we used a measure‐

ment of 1 5/8” x 5/8”. Mark a cross center line with a magic

marker. Place a AN366F‐1032A anchor nut onto the metal

plate, center the middle hole over the mark the you cre‐

ated. Mark the two end holes with the magic marker. Re‐

move the nut plate and drill out the center hole using a #11

drill bit then drill out the two outside holes using a #40 drill

bit.

Place the anchor nut onto the stainless steel plate, then

measure half way between the end of the anchor nut to the

end of the metal plate. Make a mark half way between

them. Do this for each end.

Drill each end with the #40 drill bit. Then install two CCP‐

32 rivets on the underside of the steel plate and through

the anchor nut . Press the rivets with a hand press rivet

gun.

Install one side of the stabilizer to add needed weight to

the Jack Screw, as seen in Figure #50. This is needed to

give a correct measurement when installing the trim indi‐

cator post.

Set the Jack Screw all the way up . Then install a spring

onto the one side of the metal plate and then attach the

other end of the spring onto the airframes top tab. Then

run the trim indicator cable through the other end of the

metal plate.

To set the length of the cable, make sure that the spring

has some tension on it. Install a small black nicopress

sleeve onto the cable and press the sleeve as shown in pre‐

vious steps. Make sure to give enough tension on the

spring but not too much. Install a small bolt in the anchor

nut this will be used to make a mark on the cover plate.

Use a magic marker and mark the center of the bolt loca‐

tion for the front.

Figure #50

Figure #50



Then crank the Jack Screw all the way down. You should

notice the bolt moving toward the back of the airframe.

Make a center mark under the bolt at the lowest Jack

Screw location, as shown in Figure #51 ‐ #52.

When both locations have been marked remove the trim

indicator cover plate and make a straight line between the

two locations. Measure the width of the bolt you will be

using for the trim indicator. Divide the measurement in

half and make two marks beside your center line on the

cover plate, as shown in Figure #53.

Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the

cover plate. Then use a round file to cut out the needed

hole. Follow the center line when cutting with the small

round file. When the hole has been made from one end to

the other use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines.

Debur if needed.

Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and

check for fit. Crank the Jack Screw all the way up then all

the way down to check your final measurement / positions.

Figure #51

Figure #52

Figure #53



Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the

cover plate, as shown in Figure #54.

Then use a round file to cut out the needed hole. Follow

the center line when cutting with the small round file, as

shown in Figure #55.

When the hole has been made from one end to the other

use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines, as shown

in Figure #56. Debur if needed.

Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and

cleco in, then install the bolt thru the trim plate then . To

check for correct fit, crank the Jack Screw all the way up to

see if your bolt rubs or touches the trim plate. Then turn

the crank all the way down to check the other end of the

slot for any touching, as shown in Figure #57.

Figure #55

Figure #54

Figure #56

Figure #57



Sub‐assemble balance cable pulley

Sub‐assemble the Jack Screw item #C14 to elevator bal‐

ance cable pulley bracket to a 1 3/4 pulley. To do this you

will need a AN3‐7 Bolt, AN3‐10 washer, AN3‐10L washer,

AN310‐3 Castle Nut and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.

Place the AN3‐10 washer onto the AN3‐7 bolt. Wrap the

cable around the 1 3/4 pulley, slide pulley through the

bracket then install bolt to hold pulley in place as seen in

Figure #58. Place the AN3‐10L washer on the threaded

end of the bolt. Then screw on the castle nut, tighten until

snug, then back off one hole on the castle nut to install the

MS24665‐132 cotter pin.

Next install a cotter pin MS24665‐283 in the middle hole of

the bracket. This cotter pin will keep the cable from com‐

ing out of the pulley grove.

Clean Bushings

With a 3/8” ream, clean any paint and welding debris out of

each of the hinge bushings. The rudder system has 2

hinges. 2 at the top of the vertical fin item #T6, two at the

lower rear of the tail post, and 4 on the Rudder item #T1.

Ensure that you don’t over size the bushing holes during

the cleaning process. You can use a 3/8” Line Reamer to

clean each bushing, as shown in Figures #59, #60 & #61.

Figure #60

Figure #59

Figure #58

Figure #61



Install Bushings

Install the short Oil Light Bushings item #F16 in the Verti‐

cal Fin item #T6 and through the tail post. Make sure that

the bushings go in straight when installing each bushing.

Use a AN5 Bolt as a guide pin, tap in by hitting the head

with a hammer (you may find it easier to use a punch on

the head of the bolt).

The bolt head will protect the bushing during the installa‐

tion process, as shown in Figure #62.

Install 2 long Oil Light Bushings in the Rudder item #T1

bushing locations. Follow the previous steps shown above

for installing the bushings.

When all 6 Bushings are installed, place the Vertical Fin in

the tail post and jackscrew tower of the airframe. Then

install the rudder by using 2 MS20392‐3C53 clevis pins.

The pins are inserted from the top down as shown in Fig‐

ure #63.

Note: You will only temporally keep these pins in place

until all needed measurements have been taken.

Next we need to make the rudder parallel with the tail post

of the airframe. Measure the distance at the lowest point

between the tail post and rudder as seen in Figure #64.

Now measure the distance between the top of the tail post

(the top of the airframe, not the vertical fin) and the rud‐

der. Move the front of the vertical fin (where it goes threw

the Jackscrew tower) up or down until the distance at the

top of the tail post is the same as the distance at the bot‐

tom of the tail post, shown in Figure #65.

Figure #64

Figure #63

Figure #62

Figure #65



When the vertical fin has been set in the correct position,

drill the front of the vertical fin to the jackscrew tower. To

do this, first drill out one side of the airframe with a 3/16”

drill bit. It is not advisable to continue drilling all the way

through to the other side because it is too difficult to line

up the second hole. Install a pin (the backside of a drill bit

works well) in the hole you just drilled. This will hold the

alignment between the two holes as you go around and

drill the other side. With the same 3/16” drill bit, drill the

other side being cautious to keep the drill bit (being used as

a pin) square to the vertical fin. Then clean out the same

holes with a #11 drill bit. This can be seen in Figure #66 &

#67

Drill the forward rear side of the vertical fin with the 3/16”

drill bit. Then re‐drill with a #11 drill bit. Drill only the front

side of the airframe. Then place the 2nd drill bit in this hole

to temporally secure the vertical fin in place. Shown in

Figure #68.

To drill out the rear vertical fin location you must first re‐

move the rudder by pulling out both clevis pins to expose

the final drilling location. Drill out the last hole in the same

manner shown in the pervious steps. Keep the drill bit

straight during drilling, as shown in Figure #69.

Figure #68

Figure #67

Figure #66

Figure #69



Elevator balance cable bracket Install

Install the Elevator balance cable bracket assembly onto

the airframe. To install the bracket you will need a AN3‐12

Bolt, 2 AN960‐10 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a

MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Bend & cut the cotter pin into

position to complete the front side of the vertical fin instal‐

lation.

Note: ensure to have the Elevator balance cable bracket

installed in the correct direction. The cable guard is to be at

the top of the bracket as shown in Figure #70.

Place a AN3‐12A bolt facing forward through the vertical

fin & airframe, then install a AN960‐10 washer and com‐

plete the installation with a AN365‐1032 Locknut. Shown

in Figure #71.

To keep the top elevator balance cable from moving

around during the fabric covering process, it is suggested

to temporary secure it to the airframe with a tie strap as

seen in Figure #72.

Figure #72

Figure #71

Figure #70



Stringer Install

The next step is to install the stringers. Measure the top

center stringer. Start from the inside top front slot of the

airframe to the rear slot by the jackscrew. The measure‐

ment that we had was 83”.

Check your airframes measurement to ensure correct

length. Take one of the shorter stringers and mark the

measured length, then cut to size.

To cut the stringer you can use either a hack saw or even a

power miter saw as shown in Figure #1.

Note: When cutting with a power miter saw, cut the metal

slowly. This will ensure that the metal won’t bend during the

cutting process.

Top center stringer install

Install the center stringer by first sliding it in the front slot.

Then work your way to the back along the airframe. Place

the stringer in to each of the top airframe tabs. Clamp the

stringer in place at each tab location. This will eliminate

any movement of either the stringer or tabs. See Figures

#2 ‐ #3 for locations and clamping examples.

When marking the screw hole locations of each end of the

stringer, measure the center width of each slot then divide

the number in half. Then mark with a small magic marker

this location, as shown in Figure #4.

Because the slot is angled it is advisable to use a spring

handle center punch to assist with the start of drilling, as

shown in Figure #5.

Figure #1

Figure #4

Figure #3

Figure #5

Figure #2



Drill the hole using a #36 bit as shown in Figure #6. Make

sure to drill straight on. When the hole is complete use a

AN526C 440‐16 screw and a MS21044N04 locknut. To

tighten the screw and nut, use a 1/4” wrench & a #1 Phillips

screwdriver.

When drilling out each tab location install the same size

screw and locknut before moving to the next tab. Follow

the same guidelines for the rear slot as you did for the front

stringer slot.

Rear trim indicator pulley

Sub‐assemble the rear trim indicator pulley bracket. Use a

1 3/4” pulley, pulley brackets item #C11 one An3‐7 bolt,

one AN3‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut & MS24665‐132

cotter pin.

You will first need to clean the pulley’s brass bushing and

each of the 3 holes in the bracket, using a #11 ream. Install

the bolt in the bracket then thread the bolt into the pulley,

place the other bracket onto the bolt then install the

washer and castle nut onto the bolt.

Measure the width of the stringers lower channel, then

divide the measurement in half. Lightly score the center

line in this channel as shown in Figure #8.

Position the pulley / bracket under the top rear stringer.

Measure from the front edge of the Jack Screw tower

bushing to the beginning of the pulley. The location should

be 2 3/8”. Use a clamp to hold the pulley bracket in place

and make a center mark for each hole in the bracket as

seen in Figure #9.

Remove the pulley bracket and drill out both holes using a

#30 drill bit to start. When both holes are complete re‐drill

each hole again using a #11 drill bit to complete.

Re‐install the pulley bracket and secure the bracket to the

stringer using 2 AN526C 1032‐16 screws and 2

MS21044N3 nuts.

Figure #8

Figure #7

Figure #9

Figure #6



Bottom stringer install

Measure the length of the bottom stringer. Start from the

bottom front center slot and measure to the rear center

tab add an inch extra to the total length of the stringer.

Place the bottom stringer in to the front slot and make sure

the stringer is in each tab clamp the stringer by each tab to

minimize any possible movement . Take a square and mark

from the rear bottom tab a line on the stringer, as shown in

Figure #10.

Remove the stringer and make the needed cut and file any

sharp edges.

Place the bottom stringer back in the front slot and clamp

in to position at each tab location. Check to see that the

stringer fits correctly at the rear tab. The stringer will need

to have a slight bend in it to fit in to the rear tab as shown

in Figure #11.

Drill the front slot as shown in pervious steps using the

same size drill bit and hardware to secure each tab loca‐

tion.

When drilling out the rear end of the stringer push up on

the stringer so that the bottom of the stringer would be

flush with the bottom of the rear tab, then drill and secure

with the required hardware.

Side stringers install

Measure and cut both of the upper side stringers at a

length of 98 3/4” long. Make sure that there isn’t any sharp

ends of the stringers, file the ends if needed.

Place one of the stringers in the front side slot. Then place

the stringer in each tab and clamp.

Follow the same steps shown for the upper middle stringer,

using the #36 drill bit and hardware to secure both upper

side stringers, as shown in Figure #12.

Figure #10

Figure #11

Figure #12



Preparing side stringers

Install the two thin profiled stringers on the lower sides.

The length of each extrusion will be different depending on

your baggage door configuration. We suggest starting with

the left side extrusion. Place the extrusion in to the front

slot, then work your way toward the rear of the airframe.

Set the extrusion on each airframe tap and clamp at each

tab. The extrusion will need to be bent in two locations,

one at the front and the other at the rear. These bends are

required so that the extrusion will not rub on the airframe.

See Figures #13‐ #14 for bend location examples.

To make the required bends, it is suggested to use two

blocks of wood , a table with a straight edge & a clamp.

Place the two blocks of wood between the extrusion and

then clamp in to position. Slide the extrusion through the

blocks until the marked location is at the edge of the table.

Hold down the back end of the extrusion so to keep the

extrusion from sliding. Slowly push down on the extrusion

to make the required bend, as shown in Figure #15.

NOTE: The blocks will ensure that the extrusion will not roll

over when you put some pressure down on to the extrusion to

bend. Figure #16 shows an example on how to bend the ex‐

trusion with the blocks in place.

Figure #16

Figure #15

Figure #13

Figure #14



By just placing a small amount of pressure down on the

extrusion you can create the needed bend in it, as shown in

Figure #17.

Side stringers install

Drill a hole at the tail end of both extrusion, center the hole

and measure 1/8” from the end then drill using a #36 drill

bit.

When installing each extrusion place them in to the front

slot first, then clamp on top of each tab. Drill at each tab

location with the #36 drill bit and secure with AN526C 440‐

8 screws & Ms21044N04 locknuts.

Note: When drilling in very tight angles it may be easier to

drill out the hard to reach holes with a very long drill bit, as


Take a scrap piece of extrusion and cut it to a length that

would slightly pull the rear stringers toward the center of

the airframe. On our air craft we measured a length of 5”

cut the extrusion and file each end.

Measure from each end of the short extrusion 2/8” mark a

center hole, then drill out two holes using a #36 drill bit, as


Place the short extrusion on to the top of the two rear

stringers. Place two AN526c 440‐8 screws in each end of

the short extrusion then through the longer extrusion. Se‐

cure using a MS21044N04 Locknut.

Determine where the stringers intersect the tubes when

they are straight all along the airframe. Mark the position,

move the stringers out of the way, and wrap the tubes with

black electrical tape to protect them.

Double wrap lockwire around each side as seen in Figure

#20 This will hold everything secure. You can use 0.032”

lockwire to secure these items.

Figure #19

Figure #20

Figure #17

Figure #18



Vertical fin radius install

Find the Vertical fin radius or other wise known as “Saddle”

item #F79 prime and paint this item.

Noticed the hole in the middle of the saddle. This hole is to

be placed over the Jack Screw location. If ever you need to

remove the Jack Screw you would remove it though this

hole. Mark a center line at the front bottom of the saddle,

then measure 2/8” from the end mark as shown in Figure

#73 Then use a 1/8” drill bit to drill this location.

Place the saddle on to the top of the center stringer. We

suggest to find a pipe or dowelling that would fit in the

Jack Screw hole to help center the saddle over this hole, as


When centered, drill a 1/8” hole through the top of the

stringer. This hole only needs to be slightly deeper then the

CCP‐44 pop rivet, as shown in Figure #75.

Install the rivet then secure the rear side of the saddle with

a AN526C 440‐8 screw and use a MS21044N04 locknut, as

shown in Figure #76. The screw head and locknut must be

tight enough that when installing the aircraft skin that they

will not poke though, as shown in Figure #77.

Figure #74

Figure #73

Figure #75

Figure #76

Figure #77

Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs

Floor Boards –Page #40

Figure #78 shows a top view of the airframe floor board

map and how the boards are placed on the airframe. There

are five pieces that come with your kit. The ¼” plywood

floor boards have been each precisely cut using our CNC

Router. Plywood can be easily be marked & water stained

so take great care when handling. You need to treat this

wood with some sort of finish. This is your choice and you

need to imagine the end result, how you want the airplane

to look. You can paint what ever color, leave clear, or even

use these floor boards as a pattern and make the floor out

of a different material. (Carbon Fiber)

For the sample airplane we used an automotive style clear

coat that was sprayed on. We achieved a nice gloss look by

using multiple coats. Between each coat, lightly sand (400

to 600 grit) and then tack cloth off. Because we used a two

part clear coat, the drying time was only about 30 min. be‐

tween coats. This takes a day to do, but only requires a few

minutes during each coat. Make sure you test fit your floor

boards in the airframe before you spend time and product

(money) to make sure everything fits. The front two

boards sit at a lower level. The back two boards sit in the

baggage bay area, and the middle board overlaps the front

baggage board slightly. The rear seat board gets attached

to the front baggage board with a piano hinge later during

final assembly.

Go ahead and set these boards in to place (after you are

done whatever finish you are doing to them). Starting

from the back, Lay the front and rear baggage boards in to

place, as shown in Figure #79.

Figure #79

Figure #78



Using a 3/16 drill bit, you need to drill 3 holes evenly spaced

down the left and right side of each board. You are drilling

through the wood into the steel tray that supports the bag‐

gage bay. You need to measure how far the steel goes in

under the wood boards, and then half that amount. That

should be the distance you should drill your holes in from

the edge of the board. Locations shown in Figure #80.

Use 18 x 10‐32x1” machine screws and 18 x AN365‐1032A

lock nuts. It is recommend that as you drill each hole, drop

a screw through the hole before drilling the next one. You

don’t need to tighten them up until you are done drilling,

but this will keep the floor board from shifting around

while drilling. When you are ready to tighten the screws,

be careful to only make them snug. Don’t tighten too

much where the head of the screw starts to sink through

the wood. Place only a small amount of force on the

screws, so do not over tight.

Figure #81 shows 2 screws at each end on the rear board

and two screws at the back end of the front baggage

board. There are not screws at the front of the front bag‐

gage floor board. We will get to that later on in the man‐

ual.

Before installing any of the other floor boards, it is recom‐

mended to check for a correct fit of the front seat’s lower

frame. Doing this now, will make it much easier to access

the seat frame securing point locations.

Center the seat base tubes in to the four slots that support

them. Make sure the seat base is pushed down as far as

possible in to the tabs and centered left to right. If you find

one of the legs is off from the rest, average out the legs the

best you can. Unfortunately, steel tends to move slightly

as it is welded. Once all four legs are in position, drill

through the holes in the seat legs using a 3/16” drill bit. It

works best to drill through one side of the tube and then go

around to the other side. Slide a pin in to the first hole you

just drilled as you drill the other side. This pin will hold the

tube from shifting. When you get through the other side,

remove the pin and run the drill bit through the other side.

This will clean out and align the holes for the bolt. Repeat

this on all four holes.

Figure #80

Figure #81



As each hole is drilled, insert 4 x AN3‐12A bolts. If you

find the holes too tight, go ahead and clean the hole out

with a #11 drill bit. Once all four holes are drilled, remove

the bolts and the seat base.

Using a ¼” x 20 tap (hardware store) clean out the threads

(remove paint) in the left & right torque tube travel stops.

This is located at the rear torque tube saddle and is de‐

signed to stop the stick when full travel is used left & right

on the control stick. Make sure you start the tap square in

the holes and the tap needs to line up with the threads that

are already there, as shown in Figure #82.

Install 2 – ¼” x 20 x 1 ¼” long bolts. They need to be

threaded the full length of the bolt. Each bolt gets a ¼”

plain nut as seen in Figure #83. These are just regular

hardware store bolts.

Set the #2 floor board in to place and then reinstall the

seat base. Put the four bolts back in to the holes. Then 4 x

AN960‐10 washers (one against nut) and 4 x AN365‐1032A

lock nuts, as shown in Figure #84.

Figure #82

Figure #83

Figure #84



Find the 4 rudder pedals item #F25, the two hole mounting

plates item #F31 & 4 rudder return springs Part # D346000

(Wag‐Aero Part #). Place the return springs on the rudder

pedals as shown in Figure #85.

Use Lubriplate No. 630‐AA Aircraft Spruce part number 09‐

25400 (14 oz. can) and a acid brush (you can get the brush

at any hardware store). Apply the lithium grease to the

rotation point surfaces on each pedal.

It is recommend to check the fit of the front floor board.

Center the #2 floor board left to right. Using a 3/16” drill

bit you can drill up in to the rudder tabs (all of the rudder

tabs already holes in them). Place a block of wood on top

of the floor board to minimize any possible splintering dur‐

ing the drilling process. Drill up from the bottom, through

the bracket on each side of the pedal. After the first hole

has been drilled, place a 2 hole mounting plate item #F31

& AN3‐7A bolt through the hole from the top down. Re‐

check to see that the floor board is still centered and

square in the opening, drill next hole. Carry on until all 8

holes are drilled.

NOTE: You are drilling up through wood. Too much up pres‐

sure on the drill will cause the wood to break out as it breaks

through the top. Let the drill bit do the work, meaning you

can run the RPM of the drill fast but your upward feed rate is

to be slow.

Remove the front floor board. Starting with the left pedal,

drop the pedal down through the notch in the floor board

as seen in Figure #87. Turn the pedal to 90 degrees to the

left so it faces the direction it should when complete. The

top of pedal should be resting on the floor board (careful it

doesn’t scratch).

Figure #85

Figure #86

Figure #87



Apply Lubriplate grease to the two ends that will be rotat‐

ing in the saddles item #F26 & apply a light coat of grease

to each saddle, as shown in Figure #88.

At each hole location place a AN3‐7A bolt through the two

hole rudder pedal tab& through the floorboard. Then raise

the rudder pedal upward, you will need to pry the pedal’s

spring back and place one end of the saddle through the

bolt, place a AN960‐10 washer on the bolt and complete

with a AN365‐1032A lock nut.

Note: If you have a helper handy, the installation of this

assembly will be much easier with a second set of hands to

help hold the assembly together.

Repeat previous steps for the right side pedal.

To secure the 2nd front floor board drill from the underside

of the floorboard, the four tab locations using a 3/16” drill

bit. Remember to use the block of wood to reduce any

possible chip out or splintering.

At the rear two holes place a 10‐32 x 1” screw through a

AN970‐3 penny washer, as shown in Figure #90. Place the

screw through the top of the floor board then through the

metal tab. (The penny washer is required due to the slight

direction change to the floor board.)

Then place a AN365‐1032A nylock nut on the bottom of

each bolt. Example shown in Figure #91.

Figure #88

Figure #89

Figure #90

Figure #91

Section AF03B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs


Front Floor Board

Set the front floor boards in place. Drill the two back holes

after you have everything positioned and centered. 3/16”

drill again with 2 x 10‐32 x 1” machine screws, 2 x AN970‐3

penny washers, and 2 x AN365‐1032A locknuts. Just put

the nuts on the bottom finger tight (a few threads). These

are going to hold the board in position as we do more work

to it.

Tip up the front of the front floor board slightly (no more

than you need to) and slide in the brake reinforcement

plate item #F30. Align the plate’s holes to match the holes

in the floor board. The plate should be flush with the be‐

ginning edges of the two outside brake pedal holes, as


Front Rudder Pedals

The front rudder pedals will be an exact duplicate installa‐

tion process as the rear rudder pedal install.

To place the front pedals in place just lift up the front of the

floor board to slide the pedals in position, as shown if Fig‐

ure #94.

Figure #92

Figure #93

Figure #94


Pulleys & Cables –Page #46

Place the airframe on two saw horses. Make sure that the

pulley tabs along the bottom of the frame do not hit the

saw horses. It’s suggested to place a clean rag under the

back of the frame where it rests on the saw horse to reduce

any possible scratching. Location for a rag or towel shown

in Figure #95.

Clean out all 3/16” holes on the airframe with a ream tool.

Make sure that you run the reamer as square (90 degrees)

as possible you do not want to enlarge these holes but to

just clean any excess paint, example shown in Figure #96.

The cables should go in place before many of the pulleys

are installed. However, we are going to pre‐fit all of the

pulleys first. This may seem like a waist of time. But we

don’t want to risk damaging a cable while trying to adjust a

pulley. So, fit each pulley first & make sure that it spins

freely before installing the cable. If a bolt calls for a castle

nut, DON’T put the cotter pin in yet! Once you have fitted

and tried each pulley, then you may install the cable.

Figure #97 shows a map of the five 2 3/4” pulleys in the

flap system.

Figure #96

Figure #95

Figure #97



The 2 3/4” pulleys usually work without any needed adjust‐

ments. You will also notice that there is a tab at each loca‐

tion that keeps the cable from slipping off the pulley. You

will need to make sure that the cable is in the pulley groove

as you install the pulley, as shown in Figure #98.

The order of assembly for four out of the five pulleys will be

to first place a AN970‐5 large penny washer through a

AN5‐16A bolt, then run the bolt through a 2 3/4” pulley and

then through the air frame’s bushing. Place two AN960‐

516 washers on the end of the bolt and complete with a

AN365‐524A locknut.

The lower left side pulley will need to be assembled differ‐

ently. The bolt will have to be placed in from the inside out

so that you will be able to replace latter on with out having

to damage the aircraft’s fabric. To install the pulley place

the AN5‐16A bolt through the bushing, the threads of the

bolt should be pointing outward. Then place the 2 3/4”

pulley on to the bolt, place a AN970‐5 large washer on the

bolt and complete with a AN365‐524A locknut. Example


Sub‐assemble the top elevator bracket item #F11 to the

turnbuckle on item #C5 use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10

washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a

MS24665‐132 cotter pin.

The bottom elevator bracket item #F12 will be placed on

to item #C6 it too will use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10

washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a

MS24665‐132 cotter pin, assembly shown in Figure #100.

Use a small zip tie and secure both the top and bottom

brackets to the end of the airframe as shown in Figure

#101. Rest the cables along the lower center of the air‐

frame and up toward the torque tube.

Figure #99

Figure #98

Figure #101

Figure #100



There are two sets of two pulleys that carry these cables.

The bronze bushings should be reamed out with a #11

(0.091”) drill that allows them to freely spin on a AN3 bolt.

The cables lie between the brackets before the pulleys go

in (after you have already pre‐fit the pulleys). Install each

set of two pulleys with one AN3‐12 bolt, one AN960‐10

washer on the head. Slide the bolt through the bracket

and pulleys and install another AN960‐10 washer and a

AN310‐3 castle nut. Install a Ms24665‐132 (1/16” x ½”)

cotter pin, as shown in Figure #102.

Place the longest cable through the rear torque tube base

& then through the small around hole at the front side of

the base. The example in Figure #103 shows the front base

facing forward.

Then place a fairlead in to the torque tube base, as shown

in Figure #104.

Run the cable under the front floor board, then loop the

cable around a 2 ¾” pulley. Place the end of the cable on

the top of the front floor board. Use a AN5‐10 Bolt with a

AN960‐516 washer on the head of the bolt. Thread the

bolt through the airframe and place a 2 ¾” pulley through

the bolt, then thread the bolt through the other end of the

airframe bracket. Place a AN960‐516 washer on the bolt,

then place a AN310‐5 castle nut on the end of the bolt,

place a MS24665‐138 cotter pin at the end of the bolt.

Then use a MS24665‐138 cotter pin and place it through

the pulley’s bracket. Assembly shown in Figure #105.

Figure #102

Figure #103

Figure #104

Figure #105


Torque Tube Assembly –Page #49

Install a 1” pulley on the bottom of the control stick torque

tube, item #F19 . Place a AN3‐7 bolt through a AN960‐10

washer then run the bolt through the one side of the

torque tube bracket. Place a 1” pulley between the pulley

brackets & run the bolt all the way through the other side.

Place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and spin

on a AN310‐3 castle nut. Place a MS24665‐132 cotter pin

through the bolt and bend. Place the front cable between

the pulley’s brackets and use a MS24665‐132 cotter pin to

keep the cable from falling out.

Note: Ensure to have the pulley at the rear of the tube as


Lubriplate the front & rear torque tube saddles, as shown

in Figure #107.

Place the torque tube in the saddles. The front saddle will

fit in between the two collars of the torque tube. The two

collars will keep the torque tube from any unwanted sliding

from front to back. Figure #108 shows a close up shot of

the two welded collars.

Lubriplate the top covers for each saddle and set them in

place, as shown in Figure #109 & #110.

Figure #106

Figure #107

Figure #108



Torque Tube Assembly –Page #50

At all the four bolt hole locations place a AN4‐14A bolt

through a AN960‐416 washer, run the bolt through the

torque tube saddle and place a AN365‐428A locknut on

the end of the bolt.

Place the control stick connecting rod item #F20 through

the torque tub, as shown in Figure #112.

Clean the attachment points of the control stick pivots,

item #F22 with a 1/4” ream. Some power coat paint may

have built up in these areas. Slide a AN4‐23 bolt in each

attachment point to check to see if it pivots freely. Place a

AN4‐23 bolt through a AN960‐416 washer place one of

the control stick pivots in to the torque tube and thread the

bolt though it, as shown in Figure #113. Place another

AN960‐416 washer on the end of the bolt, then thread on

a AN310‐4 castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐134

cotter pin.

Repeat the same steps for the rear control stick pivot.

Place the front elevator cable connecting point to the con‐

trol stick connecting rod item #F20, then place the control

stick pivot item #F22 over the two other items. You will

see by the spacing of the metal on each piece, there is only

one way these three parts can connect together in order to

be centered, as shown in Figure #114. Place a AN24‐14

clevis bolt through the aligned holes, then a AN960‐416L

washer, spin on a AN320‐4 shear nut and complete the

assembly with a MS24665‐281 cotter pin.

The assembly for the rear of the torque tube will be the

exact same process. Figure #115 shows the rear assembly

fully assembled.

Figure #112

Figure #113

Figure #114

Figure #115

Figure #111


Rudder Cables Installation –Page #51

Rudder Cables

The rudder cables consist of a left and right that are identi‐

cal. They have a long and a short length cable that are

crimped together. This allows for the double rudder pedal

connection, final assembly shown in Figure #116.

Take a AN3‐5 bolt and place a AN960‐10 washer through

it. Run the bolt from the inside of the rudder pedal through

the pedal and place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the

bolt then place the rudder cable attachment point through

the bolt, use another AN960‐10 washer, spin on a AN310‐3

castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.

Assembly example shown in Figure #117.

Repeat this assembly for the other three rudder pedals.

When all four pedals are attached, run the cables from the

rear rudder pedal & place each cable between the 1 ¾” pul‐

ley tabs, shown in Figure #118. Then through the four

lower airframe bushings, two per side.

Secure both rudder cables to the tail post with zip ties, as


Figure #116

Figure #117

Figure #118

Figure #119


Rudder Cables Installation –Page #52

Then install the rudder pedal cable fairlead bushings in to

the airframe, as shown in Figure #120. Place the fairlead

bushings from the front of the airframe to the rear, the

medal retainer clip will be on the rear side of the airframe’s

bushings.

Note: All fairlead bushings will be orientated the same way

through out the airframe.

Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side (left & right cable) which

is located at the forward ending point of the baggage com‐

partment floor. Take a AN3‐10 bolt and place a AN960‐10

washer through it. Run the bolt through on side of the pul‐

ley tab and place a 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Slide the

bolt all the way through and then place two AN960‐10

washers on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle

nut and complete the assembly with a MS24665‐132 cotter

pin. An example of the assembly shown in Figure #121

with out cotter pin.

Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side of the airframe, just

above the lower lift strut attachment point. Use a AN3‐7

bolt run a AN960‐10 washer through the bolt then slide

the bolt half way through the pulley attachment point then

place the 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Place a AN960‐10

washer on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut

and complete the installation with a MS24665‐132 cotter

pin. Example shown in Figure #122. These two pulleys are

for the aileron control. The cables for these pulleys will be

connected when the wings are attached. The aileron con‐

trol cables run down the lift struts and attach to the bot‐

tom of the torque tube.

Figure #120

Figure #121

Figure #122


Brake System Installation –Page #53

Take a 3/32” drill bit and drill 8 holes through the underside

of the brake reinforcement plate item #F30 and though

front floor board. Place a block of wood on top of the front

floor board and apply downward pressure on the block of

wood during the drilling process. This will reduce any un‐

wanted splintering of your floor board. As you drill each

hole drop a AN3‐15A bolt through the hole from the top

down. The bolts will keep the plate from shifting as you

drill the remaining holes, as seen in Figure #123.

When all eight holes have been drilled, remove the four

center AN3‐15A bolts. Find the set of two holed mounting

plates, item #F31 then place 2 bolts in each plate. Run the

bolts with the plates though the top of the front floor

board. Then remove the remaining four bolts and repeat

the same steps, as shown in Figure #124.

Find the brake pedal spacer blocks item #F29. Notice that

two of the blocks have a notch in them. The notch is

meant to clear the structural tube of the airframe. Install

the blocks on to the bottom of the AN3‐15A bolts, as seen

in Figure #125.

Find the heel brake pedals item #F27. At the end of each

brake pedal is a 3/16” hole. Clean each of these holes out

with a 0.190” drill. Now you can manipulate the brake ped‐

als in to the hole in the floor board. Start with the pedal

facing the back of the airframe and upside down as seen in

Figure #126.

Figure #124

Figure #123

Figure #125

Figure #126



Get the first third of the pedal in to the hole and turn the

pedal 90 degrees, seen in Figure #127.

When you are finished your pedal should sit in the position


Install 2 brake pedal saddles item #F28 under each pedal

as seen in Figure #129. Apply a small amount of lithium

grease to the inside of each saddle where the pedal will

rotate. Then place a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365‐

1032A locknut on each bolt. Tighten the nuts making sure

the pedals swing freely in the saddles. If for some reason

the saddles are too tight and don’t swing, you may need to

add a shim between the spacer block and the saddle. A

thin washer may do the trick. Make sure it swings freely

but don’t make it any looser than you have to.

Now set your rear brake pedal assemblies on the floor.

You will notice an angle change on the bottom of the rear

pedal assembly. That angle change should be centered

over the seam between the first and second floor board,

location example shown in Figure #130.

Figure #127

Figure #128

Figure #129

Figure #130



Note: Our new kits come with a rod end bearing package.

These new items get installed on to the brake connecting

rods, they are not required for the older kits but many

like the new addition because of the feel and look of the

break pedal.

Find the brake connecting rods item #F37 & #F37B rod

end bearing package. Assemble the nut on to the threaded

ends then run screw on the bearings to each rod. Leave

the jam nuts loose at this time, you will have to set the

length of each rod before the jam nut can be tighten.

Attach the rod end to the front pedal using a AN3‐7 bolt

with an AN970‐3 Penny washer on the head of the bolt.

Than an AN960‐3 regular washer, the rod end, the pedal,

another AN960‐3 washer and the AN310‐3 Castle Nut.

The purpose of the large penny washer is to act as a safety

mechanism if the bearing ever failed. The penny washer

would keep the body of the rod end from sliding off the

bolt.

Repeat the same sequence on the rear pedal to attach the

rod end except you will use the next size longer bolt (1 –

AN3‐10). Than the penny washer, regular washer, rod end,

brake pedal body, regular washer, castle nut. Don’t forget

to install a cotter pin in each castle nut when you are fin‐

ished.

Once the rods are attached, position the rear brake pedals

by sliding them left or right so that the connecting rod is

just on the outboard side of the inner two holed tab for

each pedal as seen in Figure #131. Remember that the

angle change on the bottom of the rear pedal mounting

arm has to stay directly over the seam between the first

and second floor board. Make sure the rear rudder pedal

does not interfere with the operation of the connecting

rod.

Make sure that the front brake pedals are swung to the

rear (hitting the floor board) of the aircraft before your drill

any holes for the rear pedal position.

Figure #131



When you are certain that your Rear pedals are even and

symmetrical from the centerline of the airframe you can

drill 3/16” holes through the floor boards through the brake

pedal. Only drill the two outside holes and the rear inside

hole.

You can see in Figure #132 that the inside front hole may

hit the structural tubing. The main idea is to get at least

one bolt to go through the mounting plate welded to the

airframe. Install a penny washer on the bottom where ever

you are able. It may not look pretty on the bottom side but

as long as one bolt catches the steel you are OK.

Install a AN3‐10 bolt through each hole with either a penny

washer or regular washer (whichever you can get in) and

AN365‐1032 locknuts at each bolt.

Reservoir Installation

Place the reservoir in a location that is pleasing to you.

Some have placed it ahead of the front seat & other have

placed it under. In this manual we will install the reservoir

under the seat, as shown in Figure #133.

You will now have to cut a small metal plate to hold the

reservoir on to. Measure the two holes on the reservoir and

mark the measurements on the plate. Leave enough room

on the top side of the metal plate to place two holes to

secure the metal plate to the inside of the seat frame.

Drill the two holes in to the plate for the reservoir and place

10 32 x3/8” Machine screw through the plate and in to the

reservoir.

Place a AN825‐4D Tee fitting in the bottom of the reser‐

voir and have the Tee pointing left and right of the bracket.

Figure #132

Figure #133

Figure #134



Leave enough room on the upper side of the metal plate so

that two holes could be made to secure the metal plate to

the inside of the seat frame. Place the reservoir assembly

centered above the control stick torque tube and drill two

1/8” holes through the metal plate and in to the seat frame.

Use two 1/8” pop rivets to secure to the seat frame. Loca‐

tion shown in Figure #135.

Install two AN822‐4D 90° fittings in to each brake master

cylinders. Have the two rear fitting pointing up.

You may now drill out the two holes for the brake lines that

will go through the front floor board and in to the gear

legs. Have the holes placed well enough so that the lines

will not rub the floor board as they go through it.

When the holes are been cut out of the floor board, place a

AN822‐4D 90° fitting in to the front of each master cylin‐

ders, an example is shown in Figure #136.

Note: When the fabric covering has been complete and the

gear legs have been installed you will be able to measure the

length of each needed brake line and have a professional

company cut an crimp stainless steel brake lines for you. We

found that the length of brake lines needed was about 12” for

the brake lines from the reservoir to the rear side of the mas‐

ter cylinder & 28” lines from the gear legs to the front side of

the master cylinder.

Measure the distance for each brake line on your aircraft to

be safe!!

Figure #135

Figure #136


Gear Leg assembly –Page #58

This section will cover the steps required to make your gear legs ready for fabric covering. Normally gear legs are fab‐ric covered but some people choose not to cover them, due to the fact that the fabric might get damaged by brush or debris in rough landing areas. You need to decide on the final look of the aircraft and its functionality. People who might decide against fabric on the legs are after a true Bush plane look and feel. In this tutorial we will be running the brake lines inside of the gear legs regardless of your covering decision.

Run the rigid brake line down each main gear leg so that it can be hidden inside the fabric covering of the gear leg. One side will attach to the brake caliper (wheel end) and the other end will attach to a flexible line. This flex line is needed because the gear leg rotates about the two mount‐ing bolts on the airframe.

All of the following instructions are for one gear leg. Re‐peat each step for the opposite gear leg (do the same step for each before proceeding to the next step) but remember to mirror each step.

First clean out the two mounting tabs with a #11 ream, as shown in Figure #137.

Ream the power coated paint out of the lower mounting plate’s four holes, take great care that you do not enlarge these holes, as shown in Figure #138.

Figure #138

Figure #137



To determine the correct length of the brake lines, you will need to install item #L6 brake calipers first.

Place the mounting plate so that the two bushing face for‐ward. The four holes in the plate should line up with the gear leg plate. Temporary Install a under sized bolt in one of the four holes to hold the plate in place, as seen in Fig‐ure #139.

Install a AN822‐4 90 degree elbow in to the caliper. Apply Loctite 545 on to the threads of the elbow before installing. Be sure not to mark up the anodized elbow when installing, as it will be easily seen by many.

The caliper slides in to the mounting plate on the inboard side of the plate, as shown in Figure #141.

Start at the bottom of your gear leg. Use a tubing bender to make a 90 degree bend, leave about 3 inches extra length on the tube than you need to attach to the caliper. It’s better to have extra when making a bend like this and trim some off after the bend has been made.

Figure #139

Figure #140

Figure #141

Figure #142



Place the 90° bend toward the caliper’s 90° fitting and

measure up to the top of the gear leg. Again leave a few

inches extra and cut the brake line. Install two Adel clamps

around the brake line. Place screws through the clamps

and in to the gear legs weld tabs.

Do not place any nuts on the screw just yet. We just need

the brake line to be held in place as you do a measurement

from the lower brake line to the 90 degree fittings threads.

Have the excess brake line lay on top of the caliper’s 90

degree fitting. Make a mark on the brake line located just

before the 90° threading with a pencil or marker. Remove

the brake line from the gear leg and cut the brake line with

tubing cutters, as shown if Figure #143.

Install a nut, sleeve and put a flange on the tube.

Place the tube back on to the gear leg, use both Adel

clamps to hold the brake line in place as before. Place the

brake line nut on to the 90 degree fitting finger tight.

Figure #143

Figure #144

Figure #145



A 45° bend goes at the top of the gear leg. Determine

where you want the 45° bend and the end of the tube.

Mark the location on the brake line and remove. Make

your 45° bend, cut the brake line and install the other nut

and sleeve as shown in previous steps.

If you plan on covering the gear legs the tube can stay

where it is. Place the locknut on the ends of each screw

and tighten. Cap the ends of the brake lines to prevent any

contamination in the lines. It is also a good idea to rap the

exposed ends in masking tape to keep them clean during

the covering steps.

If you don’t want to cover the gear leg, remove the brake

lines. Make sure you label the lines left and right. You can

paint the lines separately if you like. How ever it is not ad‐

vised to paint the Adel clamps because the paint will crack

off of the rubber later on.

The end result after fabric covering will be the brake lines

protruding from the fabric at each end as shown in Figures

#149 & 150.

Figure #146

Figure #147

Figure #148

The final brake line assembly with out fabric cover‐

ing will look like Figures #146, 147 & 148.

Figure #149

Figure #150


Fuel Valve Modification –Page #62

We are going to do a little modification to the fuel valve

(Aircraft Spruce Part # 6749). When you receive this valve

take a look at the internal plastic barrel. You can see from

the outside (with out taking it apart) that the barrel only

has two holes in it. This would only let you select either left

tank or right tank, NOT BOTH. You are going to add a

third hole to this barrel which will allow a “BOTH TANK fuel

feed selection”. You may feel like this is something you

shouldn’t be messing with but have no worries. This is

very easy to do, and when you are finished it will look like a

factory manufactured hole.

Lets get the valve out on the bench and begin! First thing

is to loosen the nut that holds it together and remove the

barrel. You will see a retainer plate (Brass) that needs to

stay flat as it comes out. If the barrel is not coming out

easily you need to slightly adjust the angle of that plate

(only a few degrees) and it should fall out.

Now look inside the valve, you should see three directions

the fuel can take. By not adding the third hole to the barrel

you would have a left tank, right tank, off & off positions.

These would be the four positions as you rotated the valve.

Figure #151

Figure #152

Figure #153

Figure #154


Fuel Valve Modification –Page #63

Hole #3 will be directly across from hole #1, as shown in

Figure #155. To create this new hole location place a

19/64” drill bit in to hole #1 and drill from the inside out .

Take your time when drilling out this hole, the plastic is

very soft and it should drill very easily. As you drill, do your

best to keep the sides of the bit from touching hole #1.

Take a 3/8” drill bit and re‐drill the hole.

Using a needle file carefully file the edges of the new hole.

File inward strokes going around the hole. The idea is that

when you are done, your hole will look just like the other

two.

When you are finished filing, completely clean the valve of

any bits of plastic. Wipe it down, inside and out. You can

use compressed air gun to blow out any possible filings.

The bottom line is to remove any debris from going inside

the fuel system.

Reassembly the valve and tighten the nut back up.

Figure #155

Figure #156

Figure #157

Figure #158


Fuel System –Page #64

The fuel system will have four suction lines to it. One from

the front and one from the back of each wing tank. This

allows the aircraft to suck fuel in a nose up attitude (from

the back line) or a nose down attitude (from the front line).

Having these two feeds from each tank will eliminate a

“header tank” requirement which original Piper’s used.

Place two elbows & two tee’s in to the fuel valve. They will

hit the airframe tubes if you try to screw them in after the

valve is mounted. Place some sealant on the threads of all

the fuel fittings that don’t accept a flanged tube. We rec‐

ommend Loctite 545 as a good sealant. Use just a few

drops of Loctite to cover the threads on the male side of

your connections. After the two elbows and two tees are in

place (hold the valve up to the airframe to see if any valves

could hit the airframe tubing. Make any needed adjust‐

ments needed to the tees. To secure the fuel selector valve

in place, use two AN3‐4A bolts and run them from the in‐

side of the airframe out to the fuel selector the use a

AN960‐10 washer on each bolt and complete with AN365‐

1032A locknuts, as shown in Figure #159.

Figure #160 shows the fuel switch parts map.

The fuel switch will use.

1x Fuel valve P/N 6747

5x Nuts

2x AN825‐6D Tees

1x AN822‐6D Elbow

1x AN914‐2D Elbow

Figure #159

Figure #160



It is suggested to run all of your fuel lines before making

any connections. It would be a waste of time if you flared

the tubing and ending up kinking the line as you are bend‐

ing them. Figure #161 shows a map of where the fuel line

are to be connected and routed from the fuel switch.

Figure #162 shows the fuel line routing. The BLUE line is

the right side fuel line, the RED is the left side fuel line &

the arrows indicate where to install the Adel clamps.

Route the rear fuel lines under the center of the airframe,

toward the drain plug location, as shown in Figure #163.

Along the lower left side of the airframe there will be a

mounting bracket for the fuel drain tees. Install two

AN825‐6D tees facing front to back in the bracket, secure

the tees to the airframe with AN924‐6D bulkhead nuts.

Place AN910‐2D couplings on the bottom of each tee, then

place the CAV‐160 safe‐air drains in to each coupling, as

shown in Figure #164. Loctite each joint.

Figure #161

Figure #162

Figure #163

Figure #164



Route the fuel lines back around the left side of the air‐

frame, as shown in Figure #165.

To secure the left side fuel lines, butterfly the adel clamps

together P/N MS21919WDG6, use two 10‐32 truss head

S/S screws & two 10‐32 locknuts on each Adel clamp. In‐

stall the truss head screws pointing toward the cabin


The fuel lines will now split off left & right up to the wing.

Place two Adel clamps along both side diagonal weld tube

tabs. Use four 10‐32 truss head S/S screws & four 10‐32

locknuts on each Adel clamp. Install the truss head screws

pointing toward the cabin as shown in Figure #167.

When routing the fuel lines, ensure that no fuel line rubs or

chafes against anything. Figure #168 shows an area where

the fuel line is very close to rubbing on the pulley bolt.

Make sure that the lines are secure and if needed cable tie

them together.

Figure #165

Figure #166

Figure #167

Figure #168



When securing fuel lines to the airframe you may use zip

ties. You will need two zip ties for each fuel line. The first

zip tie will be loosely tied around the airframe tube then

the second zip tie will go around the fuel line and through

the 1st zip tie. Then tighten both ties together. This proc‐

ess will eliminate any possible rubbing between the fuel

lines and the airframe. An example is shown in Figure

#169.

Figure #170 shows the routing of the two front fuel lines.

You may use a single zip tie in different locations to secure

the fuel line to the airframe.

The left side fuel line has a very sharp bend in it, be very

careful not to kink the fuel line in the area shown in Figure

#171.

When routing the two front fuel lines leave about two

inches running parallel with the bottom of the wing. End

these about even with the front and rear wing pickup fit‐

tings. Plug the ends of these tubes 04‐0049 plugs and tape

over, to ensure no debris could get in to them during the

covering process, as shown in Figure #172.

When you are satisfied with the lengths and bends in your

tubes, flare the ends. Remember that before you make a

flare, make sure you slide the nut and then the sleeve on.

You do not Loctite these connections. The sleeve com‐

presses the aluminum flared tube and makes a tight seal.

Don’t over tighten these. Make them snug but not super

tight.

Figure #169

Figure #170

Figure #171

Figure #172


Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #68

The preferred position to mount your battery is under the

rear seat. You can mount the battery in other locations,

but this section will describe the under seat location. With

today's COl ignition systems (electronic) and the glass pan‐

eled display options available we have noticed that it is

better to run a separate negative line direct from the bat‐

tery forward to a bus located under the instrument panel

instead of using the airframe as a ground.

The under seat storage box seen in Figure #173 is an extra

option not included with the kit. You can build your own or

buy one from us. Our battery box kit comes with three ex‐

tra pieces that make up the battery box. The battery can be

mounted on either side of the box.

We designed the battery box to hold an Odyssey Gel Cell

Battery (Aircraft Spruce P/N# 1102233). It is a 68O AMP

battery that will supply more than sufficient for power for

your aircrafts applications. The displayed battery is sealed

so you can lay it on it's side and not need to worry about

any needed venting. Figure #174 shows our battery on its

side.

There is also room beside the battery to mount a constant

duty solenoid (Aircraft Spruce # 111226) as shown in Fig‐

ure #175. This allows you to shut off all battery power

which you can control from a battery "Master" switch lo‐

cated in the instrument panel. (Aircraft Spruce # 11‐

15900) and the mounting plate (Aircraft Spruce #

1115910). This is a Cessna style split switch that allows you

to control the battery master solenoid on one half of the

switch and the alternator field circuit on the other half of

the switch.

Figure #173

Figure #174

Figure #175



When routing the wiring from the battery box location, we

found that the best way to start the wires is from the bat‐

tery box going forward under the floor boards toward the

firewall. You can see in Figure #176 this airframe used the

frame as a ground. Make two runs of the #2 gauge wire

leaving about 12" extra wire where you think each wire will

end. Route the wire toward the center of the airframe,

then down along right side of the stringer. Running the

ground wire in this matter will maximize the amount of

room needed to not touch the fabric. Route 3 runs of #14

gauge wire and secure them with the 2 #2 gauge wire.

Use zip ties to secure the wires as you go. When cutting

the zip ties pay particular attention to the cut ends make

sure that when you cut the excess tie off that no sharp

edges could possibly contact the fabric locations. Do you

best to cut the ties flush!

When securing the wires you want to isolate the wire from

the steel tube. An example of this is seen in Figure #177

showing the use of two tie wraps. First the tie wrap goes

around the steel tube but it is not pulled tight. This allows

you to get the second tie wrap around the wire (or in this

photo tubing) and through the first tie wrap. Tighten the

tie wrap around the wire first, then the tie wrap around the

steel tube. This method keeps the wire or tubing from

chaffing (rubbing) against the steel tube and causing elec‐

trical shorts or failures.

You may notice some steel tabs under the airframe by the

front seat, you could use the tabs to secure the electrical

cabling to them, or use zip ties and secure the cables to the

airframes tubs as shown in the previous step. The main

idea is to ensure no rubbing, chaffing could ever happen!

Keep the cabling as close to the airframe as possible you

don’t want to see them protruding out and touching the

fabric.

Place the electrical wiring along the right side center of the

airframe until you get just past the location of where your

side cheek meets with the boot cowl. Run the wires over to

the right side of the airframe, they will go around the bot‐

tom of the lower longeron (On the outside) and run

straight up and over the outside of the top longeron. Fig‐

ure #178 shows the electrical harness coming out of the

lower front as described.

Figure #176

Figure #177

Figure #178



The arrow pointing in Figure #179 shows that there is

enough space between the airframe and the boot cowl to

allow you to run the wires on the outside of the airframe.

Secure the wire to the steel tubes using zip ties. Leave

enough wire to reach over and touch the left upper

longeron so that you won't be short reaching anywhere on

the electrical control panel.

Wiring diagram is shown on the next page. The diagram

shows the requirement to make 2 runs from the battery

positive & Negative to a Positive & Negative Buss bar lo‐

cated behind the instrument panel. The master solenoid

will get placed in the battery box with a 14 gauge wire run‐

ning from the solenoid to the master switch on the instru‐

ment panel as shown in Figure #180. It is also a good idea

to run a couple extra 14 gauge lines from the battery box to

the panel for any possible future use. An example would

be if you want to have a constant power line to run a clock

or a cigarette lighter socket to power any hand held elec‐

tronics.

When you are complete with this section, you should have

5 wires (2 ‐ #2 Gauge & 3 ‐ #14 Gauge) running from the

battery box location to the rear side of the instrument

panel. Make sure that to leave an extra 12" at each end.

Now just secure the loose ends to the frame so they don't

get in the way during the covering process.

Figure #179

Figure #180

Figure #181


Interior Panels –Page #72

Introduction

This section has been created for those who has purchased

our interior panel kit. Those who have chosen not to buy

this kit, the proceeding steps will still be a major help when

fitting your created panels in to place.

Place the left front side panel in to position. Start by slid‐

ing the panel between the floor board and airframe. At

this point you will need to mark a center hole location for

the fuel switch. The size of the hole for the switch will vary

depending on the size and type of switch you have chosen.

Figure #183 shows where we drilled the fuel switch hole.

After you have drilled out the needed hole, place the panel

back in to the airframe. Check to see that the front edge of

the panel runs parallel with the front airframe tube, check

the fit of the panel around each welded corner of the air‐

frame, these areas may require the interior panel to be

filed to fit. When the panel sits flat & square against the

airframe, secure the panel using either spring clamps or

rare earth magnets to the airframe. You want to make

sure that the panel will not shift around when you are

about to drill out the needed holes. Use a #30 drill bit and

drill through the tab and through the panel at each attach‐

ment point. Place a cleco in to each hole right after you

have drilled, as shown in Figure #184.

Figure #182

Figure #183

Figure #184



Take the second left side panel and fit it in place. You may

need to trim out the top front corner of the panel so that it

will fit flat around the door frame.

Depending on if you have a single door aircraft or you have

ordered a duel door, the following steps will change

slightly. A two door aircraft will require some trimming

around the door frame. Place the panel flat against the

airframe and mark around the door frame with a magic

marker, as shown in Figure #185. The lower rear line will

be drawn straight pass the rear side of the door frame.

Remove the panel from the aircraft. Measure 3/8” out from

the outlined mark that you just drawn and mark the new

measurement on your panel. This new measurement is to

enlarge the opening for your door. The larger opening is

needed so that the panel will fit in the door frame channel

after the panel has been fabric covered. Use a straight

edge to connect your new measurements. When you have

created the second new set of lines cut the unwanted ma‐

terial out of the panel & file any sharp edges.

Place the panel back in to the airframe again to check for

correct fit, you may need to file the panel to fit around the

welded corners, make any needed trimming to the panel

for that perfect fit. Place the panel under the door frame

channels when complete.

Drill through the tab holes and in to the panel, place clecos

in the drilled locations after each hole has been drilled.

Figure #185

Figure #186

Figure #187

Figure #188



To connect the 1st & 2nd panels together, measure from

the top of the throttle post 3/4” and mark. Then measure

from the bottom of the throttle post 3/4” and place a mark.

Measure 6” down from your 2nd marked location & place a

mark, then mark a location 3/4” from the top of the flap

control tube. Then measure from the bottom of the panel

up 1 1/4” & mark. Have all of your marks centered along

the safety edge of the 1st panel. Use a 1/8” drill bit to drill

each location, cleco each hole after drilling as shown in

Figure #189.

Take your lower rear panel and fit in to position. If you

have a baggage door option you will need to trim the panel

around the door channel to fit. Figure #190 shows the

panel trimmed around the baggage door. Hold the panel

in place and mark around the frame. Cut & file the panel to

fit. Place the panel back in position & hold in place. Drill

each tab locations & cleco in place.

Take the 4th left side panel, carefully place it in to the air‐

frame. Check the fit of the panel around the welded areas

and mark any area that is needed to be filed or cut down. If

you have a baggage door option then trace out the door

opening as shown in Figure #191. Remove the panel from

the airframe, then measure .6” around the traced area.

The .6” enlargement is needed so that the panel can fit

around the baggage door frame and allow the interior fab‐

ric to be wrapped around the panel. Use a straight edge to

connect your new measurements, then cut out the bag‐

gage door hole.

It is suggested to drill out the four corners of your baggage

door cut out with a drill bit. The drilled holes should be

large enough so that it would allow a pair of snips to start

cutting the hole. When drilling the four holes make sure

that the drill bit doesn’t go past your .6” line. Use a pair of

snips to cut out the unwanted material. Take your time

cutting out the baggage door opening. File any sharp

edges when complete, as shown in Figure #192.

Figure #189

Figure #190

Figure #191

Figure #192



Place the panel back in to the aircraft and check for fit.

When you are satisfied with the fit, drill and place clecos in

to each tab.

Place the 3rd left side panel in to position. The rear side of

the panel will fit under the 4th panel’s small step. The for‐

ward side of the 3rd panel will slide just under the door

frame channel. You will only want about 3/8” of the panel

to be under the door frame channel. Having the panel fit

too tight against the door frame channel will make it very

difficult to fit the panel back in place when it is fabric cov‐

ered. Look over the panel to see if any area needs to be

trimmed. When you are satisfied with the fit of the panel

drill through the tabs and through the panel. Place clecos

in each hole after drilling.

To secure the lower portion of the 3rd & 4th panels you will

need to drill through the lower steel bracket and through

the panels. When placing the measurements along the

lower steel frame, measure no lower then 1/4” from the top

edge down of the steel frame. Any lower, the timberman

nuts that you will be using will not fit correctly. When

measuring the distance between the hole locations we sug‐

gest to place the holes parallel to the holes above as shown

in Figure #195.

Drill and place clecos in each hole.

Figure #193

Figure #194

Figure #195

Figure #196



From the inside of the airframe place 3 marks along the

bent channel. Have the holes evenly spaced and a 1/4”

along the edge of the panel to allow the timberman nuts to

fit in. Place clecos in the drilled holes as shown in Figure

#197.

The right side panels will be installed using the same steps.

The only difference is the 3rd & 4th panels will not have the

small step between them. Install the front panel first then

work your way toward the back, fit, drill then cleco each

panel. Depending on what size door frames you have or‐

dered you may need to enlarge the hole in the panel to fit

around the door frame. The airframe shown in Figure

#198 has the oversized door frame as you can see our

standard interior panel will need to be trimmed to fit.

If you have a right side baggage door trace out the door

area and enlarge the opening .6”. The drawn enlarged area

is displayed in Figure #199. The rest of the right side pan‐

els will follow the same steps as the left side.

C Window frame install

To install the upper interior panels for the C window style

airframe you will first find the multi cut trim strips. Clamp

the lower strips in place and mark the support rail location.

Remove the strip and cut out the unwanted material. Fig‐

ure #200 shows the trim strip cut to fit.

Figure #197

Figure #198

Figure #199

Figure #200



The outer side of the trim strips will fit inside the metal

channel as shown in Figure #201. When both window trim

strips are cut to fit clamp both top and bottom of each

strip.

Mark a center hole in the upper airframe tabs there will be

a total of 7 taps that will need to be drilled with a #30 drill

bit.

The upper interior panels go together like Lego. Do not

start drilling any of the panels until the back, top & sides

are in place. The 1st panel you need to install will be the

top rear panel. You can use tape to hold in place for the

time being. Then the top panel will fit under the rear

panel, check for correct fit around the upper airframe. Use

tape or magnets to hold the top panel in place. Install the

side panels last. Figure #203 shows the panels secured

with tape.

When all four panels are in place allow the rear top panel to

lean forward to but the ends of the side panels. The lower

end of the rear panel will be secured to the airframe but the

upper side will only be secured to the top panel along the

fold. An example of how it should look is shown in Figure

#204.

Figure #201

Figure #202

Figure #203

Figure #204



When the side panels have a nice fit around the rear and

top panel drill the tab locations and cleco both sides to

hold in place. Then have a helper push up on the top panel

and drill through the tab holes and through the panel, cleco

each hole to secure the panel. Then drill three holes along

the bottom of the rear panel and cleco to hold the panel in

place. Place four evenly spaced marks along the top rear

panel. These four locations will secure the rear panel to the

top of the top panel. Drill and cleco each mark. Figure

#205 shows the clecos installed.

Mark the excess material around both window frames.

Remove the side panels and trim out the unwanted mate‐

rial.

Find the front wing root cover plates and tape on to the

airframe, then place the side window frame covers in place.

We used rare earth magnets to hold the covers in place as

shown in Figure #207. You will have to do a bit of trimming

around the side window panels to have them fit perfectly.

Place the wind root covers in to position check around the

welded tubes for any fit issues mark and trim any areas

needed. The bottom end of the panel will fit around the

door frame channel.

Figure #205

Figure #206

Figure #207

Figure #208



The last panel to fit will be the top over head panel shown

in Figure #209. You will have to cut out the seatbelt

bracket hole and make any necessary filing to have the

panel to fit correctly.

When you are happy with the over all fit of the wing root

covers, side window frame covers and top rear cover fit drill

each trim tabs and cleco in to place.

Label all of the interior panels with a magic marker. You

do not want to waste time trying to figure out what panel

needs to go where latter on. Remove all the panels and

store in a safe place where they will not get dented or

scratched up.

You could go directly in to covering these panels if that is

what you would like to do. This process will be covered

latter on in our manual.

Figure #209

Section WG02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs

Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #80

You may find the bolts are a bit stiff, if so it is recom‐

mended you turn the head with a wrench while pushing the

back of the bolt with a smaller pin. This will walk the bolt

out of the hole without the necessary use of force. Once all

of the bolts are ready to be removed, gently lift the flap or

aileron out of position and place them onto a clean table.

You will notice that the nut and bolt are not aircraft grade.

These are used for shipping purposes only. You will reuse

the washers so store them in a labeled zip lock bag, in a

place you will remember. The removal of the hardware is

as shown in Figure #210 & #211.

Note: When removing the flaps and ailerons it is recom‐

mended you have two people assist with this step to en‐

sure that the items do not get damaged.

Now we are ready to remove the wings from the shipping

stands. Our intention is to place each wing on two saw

horses in the normal flight attitude. If you don’t already

have saw horses (4) the preferred height is 36”. They also

make a wing rotisserie unit but saw horses work for this

step.

Prepare an area roughly 17 feet long by 6 feet for each

wing. Place the saw horses so the wing will rest on the #1

Root rib & the full tip rib. It is recommended you place an

old blanket on top of the saw horse to prevent scratching

of the wing. It is also critical to have the saw horses cen‐

tered under a rib to support the weight of the wing. This is

3 person job to remove the wings from the shipping stands.

You will need 2 x 1/2” wrenches to remove the nuts first.

Then each wing should lift straight up off the shipping

stand. The stand is designed so that one wing will rest on

the stand without it tipping over. When lifting the wing at

the root end you may hold it anywhere along the round

spreader bar as shown in Figure #212. At the tip end, if

you have a round set of wings, you may pick it up by the

bow (it is strong enough to do this.)

Figure #210

Figure #211

Figure #212



If you have a square set of wings grab it by the rib bracing

around the front and rear spar as shown in Figure #213.

Set the wings on the saw horses. Now you are ready to

remove the fuel tank lid.

To remove the tank lid, remove all 15 phillips head screws

out of each fuel tank lid, as shown in Figure #214. There

will be 6 screws along the front and 4 screws along the

back of the fuel tank lid, that are 10‐32 x 3/4”. Then remove

the remaining 5 screws along the #5 rib. These screws are

6‐32 x 1/2”. Place these tank lid screws in a labelled zip lock

bag & store in a place you will remember.

We recommend before you remove the fuel tanks, take a

measurement of the position of the filler neck, (from the

#1 root rib and from the front spar) as shown in Figure

#208. This is to reposition the fuel tank when re‐installing.

Write down the measurements in a note book that you will

use in the assembly process. (It is advisable to have a blank

note book to record various measurements. Keep this

book handy alongside your builder’s log)

Figure #213

Figure #214

Figure #208



Use a 5/32” Hex head wrench (Allen key) to unbolt the top

fuel tank straps, as seen in Figure #215. Before laying both

of the metal strap onto the wing we recommend laying a

soft cloth between the strap and the wing to ensure that

the strap doesn’t scratch the wing or the paint on the strap.

Once unbolted swing the straps 180 degree by the hinge so

that the straps stick out forward of the leading edge. Take

the 2 fuel tank strap bolts and place them in the same zip

lock bag that you used for the Phillips screws so they won’t

get lost.

Now unbolt the steel compression tube that runs through

the fuel tank. Remove each of the AN3‐5A bolts and the

10‐32 locknuts with two 3/8” wrenches as shown in Figure

#216 & #217.

Note: To remove the black steel compression tube you will

need to lift the rear root corner of the tank as you slide the

root end of the compression tube upward off the end of

the steel tab that it’s attached to. You will need to get the

compression tube to slide between the top of the round

spreader bar & the bottom of the upper rib extrusion on

the #1 rib. You should now slide the tube straight out of

the fuel tank as shown in Figure #218.

Figure #215

Figure #216

Figure #217

Figure #218



Lift the fuel tank straight up from the top of the wing.

Once the fuel tank is removed replace the steal compres‐

sion tube back in to the wing, as shown in Figure #219.

This compression tube is a critical component to ensure

that the wing does not sag or come out of shape.

Discard the white air‐foam packing that is found between

the fuel tank and the tank straps. Replace it with either

glue on 1” wide cork board or the recommended 1” wide

nylon strap.

Apply anti‐chafe material

Pre‐cut nylon straps (1”x .45”) to length to cover the tank

side of each tank strap. The top straps need to be sepa‐

rated in two pieces leaving about 1/8” gap on each side of

the hinge. The bottom straps are to be done in one piece.

The general idea is to separate the fuel tank from the steel

straps all the way around.

Take a 1/2” wide brush and cut the bristles with a pair of

scissors to half of the factory length (this make a stiffer

application tool for applying the gel contact cement). Ap‐

ply the contact cement glue to both the steel fuel tank

strap and the nylon strap, as shown in Figure #220. Let the

glue flash off (dry until tacky to the touch) for approxi‐

mately 2‐5 minutes.

Bond the nylon strap to the fuel tank strap, as shown in

Figure #221. This will be an instant bond, so use caution in

aligning the nylon. Once you are happy with the alignment

rub your hand over the nylon ensuring a good connection

between the two surfaces. Repeat this step for each tank

strap.

It is recommended you start and complete one strap at a

time.

Figure #219

Figure #220

Figure #221



Storing fuel tank for later assembly

This is a perfect time to clean out the fuel tanks for stor‐

age. Vacuum the fuel tanks with a regular domestic vac‐

uum (or shop vac) to remove any possible unwanted debris

that could be left over from the manufacturing process.

To reach the far corners of each tank, attach a ½” to 1”

flexible (vinyl) hose and tape it to the end of your vacuum

hose as shown in Figure #222. When trying to remove any

unwanted debris, rotate (tilt and shake) the fuel tank in

every direction & listen for any audible sound that the de‐

bris could make.

Once this process is complete it is recommended you place

each fuel tank in a plastic garbage bag to ensure no dust or

any other possible debris could enter the fuel tank.

Now you can store the fuel tanks in a safe place. We will

not use them again until the fabric covering is all done.

Installing Landing light lenses

Locate the #4 leading edge skin. This is between rib #11 &

rib #12 counting from the wing root. On this skin you

should see the manufacture’s marker lines. There will be

two marked lines, one on top and one on the bottom of the

leading edge of the wing. These lines indicate the begin‐

ning of the internal light bracket. The manufactured

marked lines are shown in Figure #223. Draw a straight

line to connect both of these lines with a magic marker.

Measure the total width of the #4 leading edge skin, then

divide the measurement in half. The divided number will

be the center of the #4 skin. Use a magic marker and mark

the center line for both the top and bottom of the leading

edge skin.

Note: The following information is for those who have pur‐

chased the “Landing Light Finishing Kit” item #W22.

If you have not purchased the finishing light kit, you will need

to create the needed cover and sides. We will show how to

make these items in a latter date.

Figure #222

Figure #223



Find the landing light cover kit and measure the total width

of the light cover, then divide the measurement in half.

Take the divided measurement and make a center line on

the upper & lower sides of the cover, with a magic marker.

Then place & hold the cover plate on to the leading edge of

the wing. Align the leading edge center line with the light

trim cover center line, shown in Figure #224 items #1 &

#2. Then align the inside opening of the cover to the

manufactures lines, item #3. Make sure you keep the lines

square. Draw a line on the outside top and bottom edge,

the top edge line is shown in item #4. Then draw a line all

the way around the inside opening of the cover. To draw

this area have someone assist with holding the light cover,

to ensure the cover does not shift during marking.

From each side, measure 3/8” to add extra space. This will

make the total cutout area 12” wide. Use the cover plate as

a template to draw the second set of out side lines, ensure

that your vertical lines are square to the manufactures top

& bottom guide line. Example shown in Figure #225.

When you are ready to cut out the landing light skin area, it

is highly suggested you cut 3/8” to 1/2” inside of the manu‐

factures guide lines. This will allow you to measure the re‐

maining distance to be removed so that your final cut line

is flush with the forward most edge of the internal bracket.

Figure #224

Figure #225



To cut in to this surface, drill a 1/4” hole (in to the center of

your opening) giving you a spot to get a sheet metal snip

started in to. Using RED handled snips, cut counter clock‐

wise and Green handled snips to cut clockwise. It is best to

cut all the way around the perimeter of your opening stay‐

ing about 1/2” inside the lines. At this point confirm the

location of the top and bottom manufactures lines by in‐

serting a ruler just under the leading edge skin, pushing it

in until it hits the beginning of the bracket. Once you con‐

firm the top and bottom line and are satisfied with the lo‐

cation of the corners you can drill a hole in each corner with

a 1/4” drill bit. Drill your holes so that the radius of the bit

creates a rounded corner joining your two intersecting

lines. Make a second pass with your snips leaving 1/8” in‐

side the lines and a third final pass on your lines. This will

ensure a desirable finish as shown in Figure #226.

Measure 1 1/4” from the manufactured line, both top and

bottom, and draw a line on the leading edge. Then place a

ruler on this line, put the center line at 6” then make four

marks at 2”, 4 1/2”, 7 1/2” and 10” for both top and bottom

of the leading edge skin. Example shown in Figure #227.

Drill each marked location with a #40 drill bit. Use a cleco

after each hole has been created.

Install both of the side brackets under the leading edge

skin. You will notice that these brackets are a bit longer

than required, as shown in Figure #228. The brackets will

need some trimming for a correct fit. Cut to size and put in

to place. The 1/8” drop in height on these brackets should

be the only part showing in the opening (3/8” protruding

the opening).

Figure #226

Figure #227

Figure #228



Along both sides of the landing light measure 3/8” and

mark a line. Then starting from the upper leading edge’s

manufacture line measure and mark 4 spaces. Each space

will be 1 1/2” apart. Then from the bottom leading edge

manufacture line measure 3 spaces at 1 1/2” each.

Then drill each hole with a #40 drill bit & cleco each loca‐

tion as shown in Figure #229.

Counter Sink & Debur each hole before riveting in the side

brackets as shown in Figure #230.

Install press rivets with rivet squeezers as shown in Figure

#231 & #232.

Figure #229

Figure #230

Figure #231

Figure #232



Take the landing light cover, starting from the outside side

edge measure and mark a 3/8” line. Then from the inside

edge of the upper cover measure and mark a 1” line. Then

do the same thing for the other end of the cover. When

complete place the cover on the leading edge with spring

clamps, ensure that the cover is centered and flush at the

top and bottom edge, as shown in Figure #233.

Use a #40 drill bit and drill out the lower two corners and

install clecos in to each hole. Then check to see if the cover

is tight against the forward leading edge. When satisfied

with the covers fit, drill out the top 2 corners and cleco

each hole. Measure the distance from corner hole to cor‐

ner along the top and bottom line (this should be 12 3/4”.)

Mark 6 holes locations across, which is 5 spaces of 2.55”

each.

From the top corners, measure down 2.55” & 5.10” and

mark both location. For the bottom corners measure for‐

ward 2.55” and place a mark. Check the inside of the lead‐

ing edge to see if these locations would interfere with the

counter sink rivets. You do not want the nut plates to in‐

terfere with the rivets, relocate the nut plate locations if

needed. Try to make the spacing aesthetically pleasing.

When all of the locations have been checked and are clear

of any interference, drill out the needed holes.

Remove the cover plate. Enlarge all the holes with a 0.135”

drill bit. This will accommodate a #6 nut plate tool as


Then using a nut plate tool and a #40 drill, insert the side

holes to the support your nut plate.

Figure #233

Figure #234



Use 3‐3 counter sunk rivets, permanently install the nut

plates with a rivet squeezer. On your cover plate enlarge

the #40 holes to accept the #6 screws. Making these holes

slightly larger then the #6 screw will give you room for any

possible misalignment, due to the extra space that the fab‐

ric may consume.

Figure #235 shows the lower nut plates installed.

When all of the nut plates are installed, Trim your glass to

fit in to the recess groove . Check for proper fit along the

front leading edge. Then remove the glass and store in a

safe place. The final installation of the glass and trim plate

will happen after the fabric has been installed and painted.

Note: The final steps to complete the landing light will be

covered after the fabric covering process.

Figure #235



Install the Wiring harness for the Wing

The purpose of this section is to show how to build a wire

harness that supplies power to the landing lights, naviga‐

tion lights, Strobe lights and optional auxiliary fuel transfer

pump.

Note: This harness can be installed at our factory for an ad‐

ditional cost or you can build them yourself. These harnesses

are available from Turbine Cubs and can be shipped with your

kit. The pictures in this guide shows installation of the har‐

ness in front of the front spar. You will not be able to do this

because your wings will have the leading edge skins already

installed. You will install your harness in the same fashion,

only it will run along the inside of the front spar.

Start by laying out each wire along the whole length of the

wing as shown in Figure #236, then add 18‐24” extra of

each along the root of the wing. Use 3 14 gauge wires for

landing lights, 3 16 gauge wires for the navigation lights &

2 14 gauge wires for the fuel transfer pump.

If you were going to install the (Whelen nave / strobe sys‐

tem) or L.E.D nave strobe system both kits will be

shipped with the necessary harness.

Figure #236



Take a roll of the black braided sleeve and roll the cut end

into itself about 1” at each end ( Doing this will ensure that

the braid wont break apart) Then place each cable that has

been cut to length, through the braided black sleeve. Use a

soldering iron to burn a small hole in the black sleeve at the

landing lights & optional auxiliary fuel transfer pump loca‐

tions, then pull out the required wires for each system as

shown in Figure #237 & #238.

Figure #237

Figure #238



With another piece of the braided sleeve, run the pulled

out wires through it and cut to length. Again roll the frag‐

mented end in to the braided sleeve about 1” as shown in

Figure #239. With a hook needle, thread each of the

braided sleeves together as shown in Figure #240. The

final outcome should look like Figure #241.

Figure #239



Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #93

The Facet transfer pump that comes with the Auxiliary fuel

tanks already has 3/8” flared tube fittings on the pump. It

is important that you verify the direction of the pump. It

only works one way and is marked with an arrow. They

install the pump at the factory with the arrow pointing to‐

wards the leading edge of the wing. You want to suck from

the back of the Auxiliary tank and dump the fuel in the

front of the main tank.

At the back of the aux tank, we reduce the 3/8” pipe thread

down to a ¼” AN912‐2D. Then install elbow AN821‐6D

pointing to the transfer pump when tight. Don’t forget to

seal the threads with Locktite 545 the same way as you did

for the airframe fuel system. Do not seal the joints with

the compression fittings! Place a short piece of 3/8” alumi‐

num tubing with a small offset bend joins the elbow to the

back (suction side) of the pump. This tube will get a nut

AN818‐6D and a sleeve AN819‐6D on each end. Flare the

ends and connect the tube as seen in Figure #242.

Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and

touch up any areas that did not get painted because they

where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small

amount just like you would to spray, except you are going

to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as

seen in Figure #243.

Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire

installation.

The front of the main tank gets a Nipple AN816‐6D with

thread sealant as seen in Figure #244.

Figure #242

Figure #243

Figure #244


Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #94

The second tube goes from the front of the pump to the

top hole located at the front of the main tank. The same

nut and sleeve go on each end of this tube.

Make sure your power wires (14 gauge) are connected to

the pump and that you have properly labeled the positive

and negative at the root of the wing. Check continuity with

a meter to make sure.

Figure #245

Figure #246


Pitot Static Line –Page #95

This section covers the pitot tube installation. Although

some glass cockpit systems supply a special pitot tube end

we are showing a normal mechanical airspeed configura‐

tion. We are not showing a Static line installation because

this type of aircraft is not an air tight unit. We have found

that just leaving the back of your altimeter and VSI open

are sufficient and don’t run any lines. You can, however

run lines if you want to.

This step requires 10 feet of ¼” aluminum tubing 03‐

40400. It runs from the root of the wing behind the front

spar and exits just behind the front jury strut attachment

bracket.

This is typically done to the left wing only. You need to

bend a gentle 90° curve at the jury strut pickup end. Be

careful not to kink the tube.

The best way to attach the tube to the spar is using the

white cable tie mounts as seen in Figure #248. These can

be picked up from electronics shops or hardware places like

Fastenal. In this application you need to drill a #37 hole in

the spar web and use a #4 screw to fasten the cable tie

mount. Then you use a small cable tie to secure the tubing.

Leave about 2” of tube sticking out at the wings root end.

You need enough to attach hose to each end.

Note: Wrap both ends of the pitot line with electrical tape

during the covering process. This will keep the ends clean

and free of any contaminates.

Figure #247

Figure #248

Figure #249


Drill for rivets –Page #96

In this module we will be showing you the steps needed to

drill holes in the wings, flaps & ailerons. This is only done if

you plan to use pop rivets rather then rib stitching to attach

your fabric to the wings. The rivets will be needed to se‐

cure the fabric to the aircraft wing assembly. Depending

on the length of chord of your flaps & ailerons the amount

of rivets will change.

Starting from the wing front spar (on the bottom of the

rib), measure back 1” and place a mark on the center of the

rib, as shown in Figure #250.

Then measure back 1” from the trailing edge skin and

mark, as shown in Figure #251.

The FAA stipulations on the placement of rivets & lacing on

the wings are found in AC43.13‐1B Chapter 2 Page 2‐21.

Figure #252 shows the FAA maximum allowable spacing

envelope. On our aircraft kits the ribs 1‐5 from the wing

root will need the 2 1/2” spacing due to the prop wash, the

remanding ribs can be spaced at 3 1/2” apart, but no fur‐

ther. Measure and mark the locations along each rib, keep

an eye for any possible poor placement of rivets around the

rib support brackets, keep the holes far enough away so

that when you later install the rivets they won’t strike the

support brackets. You repeat these steps for both top and

bottom of each rib.

Note: Rivets are only needed on the bare rib and not on the

leading edge or trailing edge skins.

Figure #250

Figure #251

Figure #252


Drill for rivets –Page #97

It has been suggested to make a story board for the river

hole placement so that your rivet locations would be

evenly spaced and uniformed. The story boards will also

assist in cutting down the time needed when marking the

locations.

To make a rivet story board you could you a scrap piece of

metal or bristle board. You will need to make a total of 3

different story boards 1 for the bottom ribs that are in the

prop wash area, 1 for the remaining non prop washed area

of the wing & 1 for the top non prop washed wing.

Flaps should have 3 rivet locations top and bottom in the

prop wash area & 2 rivets in none washed areas. On each

rib evenly space 2 locations both top and bottom for the

ailerons.

When you have marked all of the rivet locations use a 1/8”

drill bit and drill each hole & de‐bur, as shown in Figure

#253.

Figure #253

Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs

Landing Gear Assembly –Page #98

This is the beginning of the assembly process. When you

are done, all of the painted parts will come together to

make an assembly that should look like the aircraft in Fig‐

ure #254. This section covers the assembly of the main

landing gear. The first step is to get the airframe off the

rotisserie used for covering and painting and onto the

wheels.

As shown in Figure #255 there are four parts we are going

to deal with in this section, a left & right main gear leg, a

left & right shock strut, a cabane V, & one or two side

steps. The only time you will have two side step configura‐

tion is your aircraft has both a left & right side door.

Raise the front of the airframe high enough so that you

may fit the main gear legs in to position. We suggest you

use a couple of short 2x4 blocks of wood and place them

under each axel. This will protect the bottom of the gear

legs paint from any possible scratching during the time of

positioning the air frame.

There are two bolts that get installed on each gear leg to

attach the leg to the airframe. As shown in Figure #2 & #3

there should be a space between the leg and the bracket

that holds it on to the airframe. The leg requires you to

have the ability to swing freely so the small gap isn't a ma‐

jor concern.

Use a AN6‐26 Bolt for the front fitting with a washer on

the head. Use 1 or 2 washers on the other end with a castle

nut so the hole in the bolt is just exposed within the nut to

accept a cotter pin.

The rear fitting requires a AN6‐26 Bolt with a washer on

the head & 1 or 2 washers on the threaded end with a cas‐

tle nut. (Note: Use a AN6‐25 Bolt if you are not using the

conventional step)

Tighten both nuts finger tight, then tighten one more flat

(1/6th of a turn) until the hole in the bolt lines up with the

slot with n the nut.

Note: If you are going to install a side step it needs to go on

to the rear fitting before the nut is installed.

Figure #254

Figure #255

Figure #256

Figure #257



Side step installation.

The side step is installed with two attachment points. A

rubber bumper is used as a leverage arm. These rubber

bumpers are available at most fastener retailers.

As shown in Figure #259 the larger hole that is in the step

will go in the back side of the rear gear leg fitting.

The rear attachment point of the step will get bolted to the

tab sticking out of the bottom airframe as shown in Figure

#260. Bolt these together with an AN3‐5 bolt with AN960‐

10 washer on the head & a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365

‐1032 lock nut on the threaded side.

Figure #259

Figure #260

Figure #258



Installing the Cabane V

The Cabane V gets installed with bolts number 1 & 2 as

seen in Figure #261 . These are 2x AN5‐17A Bolts with 2

AN960‐516 washers & 1 AN365‐524 locknut. You can use a

Locknut here because this part of the gear does not pivot.

These 2 nuts get tighten to 120 inch LBS of torque.

Installing the Shock Struts

Your kit comes with a single die spring suspension arm.

Figure #262 shows the optional heavy duty suspension

arms. They both get attached the same way.

#3 location is a AN6‐17 bolt with a AN960‐616 washer on

the head & 2 AN960‐616 washers, a AN310‐6 castle nut &

MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the threaded side of the bolt.

#4 location is a AN6‐22 Bolt with a AN960‐616 washer, a

AN310‐6 castle nut & MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the

threaded sided of the bolt.

If you are using the heavy duty suspension arms, they are

required to be drilled together. To do this, mount the arms

onto the aircraft with bolts #3 & #4.

Now add or remove wooden 2x4 blocks to have the arms

measure 30 7/8” center to center between the bolts.

By mounting the arms onto the aircraft you must assure

the bolt holes are running parallel to each other.

Figure #261

Figure #262



Tail Wheel Installation –Page #101

Your tail wheel is going to come assembled, as seen. It

comes straight out of the box ready to be bolted to your

tail wheel spring. This is a fairly simple system held to‐

gether with only 4 bolts as shown in Figure #265.

Location # 1 bolt is a AN7‐21A with 1 washer & 1‐AN365‐

720A lock nut. Torque nut to 475 inch pounds. (inch pounds

divided by 12 = Foot pounds)

Locations #2 & #3 each bolt is a AN5‐17A with 3 AN960‐

516 washers & one AN365‐524 locknut. Torque between

100‐140 inch pounds.

Location #4 bolt is a AN6‐26A with 3 AN960‐616 washers

& AN365‐624 locknut. Torque the nut between 160‐190

inch pounds.

Stack all three leaf springs together as shown in Figure

#266. The shortest spring is to be on top, the middle

spring is the one with the slot in it at the tail wheel end & a

regular hole at the forward facing end & the bottom spring

is the one with the hole at both ends.

Location #4 Bolt shown in Figure #267 clearly shows a

castle nut & not a locknut as listed in the Bill Of Materials.

Either style of nut can be used here due to the fact that this

item is not a rotating part.

Figure #265

Figure #266

Figure #267


Tail Wheel Installation –Page #102

You may notice that the tail wheel leaf springs have a

rough texture to them. This is a result of the forging proc‐

ess & not the signs of a recycled spring. Some builders

decide to sand the springs smooth & then repaint them.

Either way, the it won’t effect the springs performance.

Figure #268


Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #103

This section is going to show you how to install the hori‐

zontal stabilizers & then the brace wires. The tail brace

wires hold the stabilizers square to the vertical fin of the

aircraft and also add great rigidity to the entire tail system.

The First step is to ream out the two holes that are the

lower mounts for the bottom tail brace wires. Carefully

clean these holes by running a 0.191” reamer through

keeping the reamer as square as possible. This is easier to

access now before the stabilizers go on, as shown in Figure

#269.

The second step is to check the fit of the rear pivot tube

(T4) & make sure it will freely enter the rear of the stabiliz‐

ers. The best way to do this is to lay a blanket down on a

work bench (something soft to protect the newly painted

surfaces) or a couple of saw horses. Be careful that what‐

ever you use doesn’t scratch the stabilizers. Do one stabi‐

lizer at a time.

Try inserting the pivot tube in to the rear of the stabilizer.

Don’t ram it in there if it won’t go in easily. Sometimes a

small bit of weld will penetrate through the stabilizer as it

is being welded, or paint will obstruct the pivot tube from

rotating freely. Either way, you need to make sure the sta‐

bilizer pivot tube will slide in to the stabilizer at least 2 1/2

inches.

If the pivot tube won’t slide in the stabilizer you will need to

clean out whatever is obstructing the hole. The easiest

way to do this is with a Dremel tool as seen in Figure #270

with a small sanding wheel that will fit into the stabilizer

tube. If you don’t have a Dremel you can use a small round

or half round file or even regular sandpaper on a small

dowel or any round handle. Don’t make this hole any lar‐

ger than you have to!! Make the fit between the two tubes

just loose enough that you can slide the pivot tube in to the

stabilizer with one hand. You don’t want any excess play

between the tubes. If you have to tap the tube with a ham‐

mer it is too tight. If you get the tube stuck while fitting,

wrap the tube in a rag and grab the tube with channel lock

pliers. What ever you do, don’t mark the outside of the

pivot tube with the pliers.

Figure #269

Figure #270



Repeat this for the second stabilizer.

Now you are going to get the rear pivot shaft ready to ac‐

cept the stabilizers. You need to apply a coating of Lock‐

Tite C5‐A anti‐seize to the pivot shaft before it is slid in to

the airframe as seen in Figure #273. Apply to shaft leaving

2” bare on each end of the shaft.

Figure #272

Figure #273

Figure #271



Now slide the shaft in to the airframe tube making it cen‐

tered (an even length of shaft sticking out each side of the

airframe). You should have about 2 ½” on each side of

the airframe. Don’t get worried if this measurement varies

a small amount (plus or minus 1/8”) shown in Figure #274.

Once the pivot tube is centered, wipe off any anti‐seize on

the tube that is visible. Re‐check that the tube is centered

after you wipe the anti‐seize.

We are going to install the left stabilizer first so you need

to mark the right side of the tube with tape. Using mask‐

ing tape, wrap the tube as seen in Figure #275 as close to

the airframe as you can but keep all of the tape on the

pivot tube. This will serve as a witness mark as you push

the left stabilizer on. If the pivot tube moves side to side

(which it is suppose too) you will know how far to install the

pivot tube in the left stabilizer and still keep it centered in

the airframe.

OK, now let’s move up to the front stabilizer support. This

is a floating tube attached to the jack screw yoke.

Figure #274

Figure #275

Figure #276



The front pivot tube item #T5 has two definite high spots

that are thicker and you can see a ridge here in Figure

#277. Before you install the front tube you need to apply

anti‐seize only on the two thicker portions. The ridges also

serve as the witness marks for centering purposes. Insert

so an even amount of tube sticks out each side.

Now you should be ready to install the left and right hori‐

zontal stabilizers. This is a job that is best done with two

people. One person is going to hold the two pivot tubes

from moving while the other person slides the stabilizer on

to the two tubes, as shown in Figure #279.

Place the front tube through the front hole of the stabi‐

lizer. Make sure you have the left stabilizer and not the

right. Check that the Seaplane drain holes are on the bot‐

tom (if you installed them on the fabric).

After you get the front tube started, you need to make sure

the powder coated tube that is attached to the jack screw

yoke is rotated down and not upward as seen in Figure

#279. In other words, the tube must be below the AN3

bolts attaching the tube to the jack screw yoke and nut

above the AN3 bolts. The stabilizer will fit on to the air‐

frame with the tube rotated upward, but your trim range

will be off. Make sure it looks just like the picture seen in

Figure #279. Now you can begin fitting the rear tube.

Figure #277

Figure #278

Figure #279



Once the stabilizer is started (making sure it is level with

the ground) begin sliding it toward the vertical fin. The

person holding the two pivot tubes can rotate the tubes to

help the stabilizer move toward the fin.

The person pushing against the stabilizer can use one hand

against the back of the vertical fin as leverage to apply

pressure toward the fin. Be careful and take your time with

this. You don’t want to bend anything!

When you are done sliding the left stabilizer toward the

center, it should be tight to the airframe and the rear tube

should only have 2 ½” sticking out the right side. You

should just be able to see the shoulder of the front pivot

tube, and it should not protrude out past the end of the

painted jack screw yoke tube. Now you need to drill two

holes to anchor the pivot tubes to the left stabilizer.

Figure #280

Figure #281

Figure #282



You need to mark the location for two 3/16” bolts. Using a

pencil, measure exactly 1” in from the root of the stabilizer

at the front and rear tubes as seen in Figures 283 & 284.

Make sure your marks are on the very top of the tubes.

Imagine a square placed on top of the fabric covering the

stabilizer. You need to drill holes down the square in both

directions from the top of the fabric.

Measure the center of the forward and rear tubes of the

stabilizer as seen in below in Figure #285. Mark the center

at the 1” mark as seen in Figure #286.

Figure #283

Figure #284




Install AN3 bolts in these holes so the end size for your hole

is to 0.191”. This needs to be a tight fitting hole which

means under size first. Start by drilling a smaller hole

about 1/8”. Drill this hole, keeping your drill bit as square

as you possibly can to the top surface of the stabilizer.

Shown in Figure #287.

Drill a second time using a #12 drill bit and then a final

clean out with a 0.191” ream. As shown in Figure #288 &

#289.

Figure #287

Figure #288

Figure #289



Place a AN960‐10 washer though a AN3‐14A bolt then run

the bolt though the hole and place a AN‐960‐10 washer on

the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032 lock‐

nut.

Repeat the same steps for the rear tube. Tighten front &

rear nuts at 20‐25 inch lbs.

Repeat the same steps for the right stabilizer.

Have someone hold the left stabilizer as you align the right

stabilizer and push the right side on to the aircraft. Be very

careful to get the right side level and square with the pivot

shafts. Push the stabilizer, in making sure you push the

front and rear tubes at the same rate.

Figure #290

Figure #291

Figure #292



Once you get the right side started on to the tubes, you can

go to the end of the stabilizer as seen in Figure #293. It

may help to wiggle the stabilizer front to back every so

slightly to get it to slide inward. Have your helper go to the

end of the left stabilizer and resist you with the equal

amount of pressure and press inward.

Figure #293

Figure #294

Figure #295



Make sure that both stabilizers are tight to the airframe

and that you can’t possibly push them any closer together.

Now you are going to mark drill hole locations just like you

did on the left stabilizer, 1” in from the root of the stabi‐

lizer and exactly centered on top of each tube, as shown in

Figure #296.

When you are ready to drill the right side it is easier if you

have a third person. This can be done with two people, but

the person holding the stabilizers together has to reach

over the airframe and gets in the way of the person trying

to drill the hole.

With three people, have one person at each end of the sta‐

bilizers pushing toward the center of the airframe. The

third person (whoever is most competent to do the drilling)

will drill a hole at the front and rear of the stabilizer just as

you did on the left stabilizer. Start with a 1/8” drill, then

switch to a #12 drill, and finally clean out the hole with a

0.191” reamer.

Now install your bolts to hold the right stabilizer on just as

you did on the left.

Just for fun, you can go up to your trim handle and crank

the trim to full up and full down travel. You should see the

front of the stabilizers move as you turn the trim handle.

Figure #296

Figure #297

Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs

Tail Brace Wires –Page #113

You have a couple of things you need to do before you can

install the tail brace wires. First you need to open up the

holes that accept the tail brace wires that you covered over

when you where covering the stabilizers. Start by locating

the bushing in each stabilizer as seen in Figure #298. You

will be able to feel the indent of the hole and likely will be

able to see the flat of the weld around the bushing. Using a

small diameter rod (welding rod or clothes hanger) poke a

hole in the center of the bushing.

Repeat this to the other side.

Also you need to poke a hole in the vertical fin located be‐

tween the upper hinge bushings as seen in Figure #299.

The next step is to burn the fabric around the holes that

accept the bolts for the tail brace wires. This is done with a

soldering iron. Carefully insert the tip of the iron through

the holes and rotate it around the inside of the bushing to

melt the fabric out as seen in Figure #300.

Figure #299

Figure #300

Figure #298



Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and

touch up any areas that did not get painted because they

where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small

amount just like you would to spray, except you are going

to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as

seen in Figure #301.

Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire

installation.

Now you need to install the tail brace wires. You are going

to assemble the wires, as shown in Figure #302 but leave

everything loose. There are two top and two bottom tail

brace wires. The top wires are longer in length than the

bottom and have bent ends at both ends. You will notice

the bottom wires (the shorter wires) have straight tabs at

one end.

Figure #301

Figure #302



Figure #303 shows the lower tail brace wires. Pay particu‐

lar attention to the fittings on the ends of the wires.

Starting with the top wires at the top of the vertical fin,

insert one AN4‐15A bolt with the special Univair #U40131‐

00 bent washer on each side, then a AN960‐10 washer and

an AN365‐1032 locknut, as seen in Figure #304. Do not

tighten this bolt just yet.

Turn the nut until about two threads are showing. You

want to be able to swivel the brackets at the top of the tail

brace wires.

The idea is that you are going to install all of the wires at

both ends. Then you will tighten the nuts that hold the

wires to the aircraft that last little bit. This will help you to

get the brackets aligned at each end.

Figure #304

Figure #305

Figure #303



Now you are going to attach the other end of the top tail

brace wires to the top of the left and right stabilizers.

Look at Figure #305 below and you will notice that you

need to have the lower tail brace wires ready to go on as

well. Make sure you have them positioned so the bent end

of the lower wires goes on the bottom of the stabilizer and

the straight end goes down to the bottom of the airframe.

Figure #306

Figure #305

Note the bushing that is pointed out in Figure #305. The purpose of this bushing is to allow the brackets attached

to the stabilizers to pivot and stay pointed directly at the top and bottom attachment points on the top of the fin

and the bottom of the airframe. As the trim is adjusted, the brackets attached to the stabilizer as shown in Figure

#306 would change direction without these bushings in place. They have just recently been added since (April

2008) to the hardware packages included with your kit. If you do not have these bushings, you will need to order

them from either Turbine Cubs or Univair Part# U82732‐072.



Lastly you are installing the bottom of the lower tail brace

wires which are bolt # 14, as shown in Figure #307.

You will use AN3‐5A bolts. Install a AN960‐10 washer on

the head and another on the threaded side after it is in‐

serted in to the bracket, then place a AN365‐1032 locknut

on the end of the bolt and snug tight, as you did with the

other bolts.

At this point let’s talk about how the wires tighten. Look

back a few pages and find the part explosion for explana‐

tory purposes, we are going to call the components a nut

and a barrel. The nut works just like a collet does. You turn

the barrel to adjust the length of the wire and when you are

finally satisfied with the length of the wire you tighten the

nut. The nut locks the barrel so it cannot turn any longer,

maintaining the pre‐set length of the wire.

This means that you want all of the nuts on the end of each

barrel (8 in total) to be loose as you square up the stabiliz‐

ers to the fin. When you adjust the barrels you want to

hold the wire from rotating with one hand and turn the

barrel with the other.

It is Critical that you DO NOT put any marks / Cuts /

Nicks in the wires. This would be an area that would

promote a failure in the wire. If you did damage the wire

in any way, when you begin to fly this aircraft the poten‐

tial failure of a tail brace wire would wreak your entire

day!

Warning ! ! !

If you put pliers or Vise Grips on to the wire to keep it from

turning and you press some kind of mark in to the wire,

you need to replace the wire!!!!!!

Now you are going to need two 48” levels. The idea here is

to first get the vertical fin as level as you can. Do this by

either jacking the axels up or by adjusting the air pressure

in the tires.

First check the back of the fin with a smaller level (torpedo

level) as shown in Figure #309. When you have adjusted

and are satisfied that the fin is completely level, you are

going to look at the two levels on the top of the stabilizers.

Figure #308

Figure #309

Figure #307



Make sure the two 48” levels are not hitting or on top of

any bolts or the tail brace wire brackets as seen in Figures

#310 & #311.

Now you are going to adjust the barrels of all the wires un‐

til the stabilizers are square and level with the tail fin. Turn

the barrels all finger tight and no more. Now you need to

finish tightening the bolts that go through the fin and sta‐

bilizers and the bottom mount bracket. You are going to

tighten these to normal torque specs for 3/16” & ¼” bolts.

As you tighten these bolts you need to hold the brackets

from rotating as they should be in line with the wire and

pointing straight to the other end of the wire. In other

words, there should be no side pressure on the barrels.

You want a nice straight tension load on each tail brace

wire assembly.

Now you can start adding tension to the wires. Below is

how Piper described the proper amount of tension that

should be applied to the wires.

What this means is that you need to hold a straight edge

against the side of the wire and parallel with the length of

the wire. Measure the exact center of the wire. This is the

point that you will be pulling from to measure your deflec‐

tion. Now you need to pull at 90 degree from the direction

the wire travels in with 10 pounds of force. The easiest way

to ensure you are using 10 pounds of force is to use a fish

scale. Go down to your local Walmart and purchase a fish

scale like the one shown in Figure #312.

Figure #311

Figure #310

Figure #312



Attach the hook end of the scale around the tail brace wire

at the center of the wire (in the “PULL” area as seen in Fig‐

ure #313) and hold the other end of the scale pull on the

scale until you read 10 lbs on the scale dial. Be careful not

to pull any harder than the 10 lbs because you don’t want

to distort the shape of the wires. Now you need to meas‐

ure the distance the wire moved from the rest position to

the position it is in when the 10 lbs are applied. This dis‐

tance should be 7/16”. If you measure more than 7/16” you

need to tighten the wire. The opposite is true if you meas‐

ure less than 7/16”, loosen the wire.

Remember that all four of these wires work together as a

single unit. This means that you want the same pressure

on all four wires. So take your time gradually tightening

each wire. Each time you adjust a wire check your levels as

seen in figure 2. When you are done you need to be certain

of 4 things.

1) The stabilizers are square to the vertical fin.

2) You have an even amount of thread showing at the

top and bottom of each wire.

3) Each wire deflects 7/16” when 10 lbs force is applied.

4) You have NO nicks or scratches on the wires.

Once you are satisfied that you have completed all of the

four steps above, go ahead and tighten the nuts located on

each barrel.

Figure #314

Figure #315

Figure #313


Elevators Installation –Page #120

This section is going to cover the installation of the eleva‐

tors and the connection of the elevator control cables. The

next section (AA05) will cover the installation of the rud‐

der, the rudder cables, the rudder steering arm and the

spring kit connecting the rudder to the tail wheel. When

you are done both sections (AA04 & AA05) your tail section

should look the one in Figure #316.

The first thing to do is mount the elevators to the stabi‐

lizer. If you did not install the oil light bushings item #F16

in to the hinges before you did your fabric covering, you

need to do this now. There are two hinge points on each

elevator. We are going to discuss installing one elevator

and then you can just repeat each step mirroring every‐

thing for the other elevator.

Start by laying a blanket on a work table so you do not

damage your paint job. Now you need to ream out the two

bushings or hinge points to accept the longer oil light

bronze bushings. These holes come from the factory all

ready to size. The steel bushings welded to the stabilizer is

0.375” ID. The bronze bushings are 0.376 OD. That means

these are a press fit. Check your hole for paint and debris

and remove if necessary before driving the bushing in to

place.

Figure #316

Figure #317



Using a clevis pin inside one of the bushings, align the

bushing with the hole and tap the bushing in to place by

hitting the head of the clevis pin. Be very careful not to hit

the painted surface of the elevator by accident. If you are

concerned that you may hit and damage your paint, wrap a

piece of cardboard around the elevator to protect it. You

need to install two long bushings in to each elevator and

four small bushings in to each stabilizer.

When you have all of your bushings in place you want to

mix up a small amount of paint and brush any areas around

your hinges that are not painted. Before you mix the paint,

now is a good time to make sure the oil light bushings are

also installed in to the rudder hinge points. Now you can

mix your paint and cover both horizontal and vertical tail

surfaces in one step. When you are finished all of your tail

surface hinge points will look like Figure #319. You can

see the steel outer bushing welded to the control surface

with the bronze bushing inside.

Now you have some holes that need to be cleaned out.

Clean out the top and bottom holes marked number 1 as

shown in Figure #320 with a #11 drill. Clean out the hole

marked number 2 with a 3/8” drill. Repeat this to the other

elevator making sure you keep the number 2 hole on the

top for the left and right elevator.

Now you are ready to install each elevator on to the stabi‐

lizers. Have two smaller pins ready to temporarily slide in

to the hinges when you get the elevator in place.

Figure #318

Figure #319

Figure #320



You need to start by keeping the tip of the elevator below

the tip of the stabilizer as seen in Figures #321 & #322.

This allows you to get the bottom of the elevator horn (the

root end that goes inside the airframe) to slide in between

the upper longerons of the airframe.

Lower the root of the elevator down until you can lift the

tip of the elevator and straighten out the elevator horn

without the horn hitting the top of the fabric patch. Once

you have the entire horn inside the airframe you can begin

to align the root elevator hinge as seen in Figure #323.

If you find that the center of the elevator hinge will not go

in between the two smaller hinge bushings on the stabi‐

lizer, you may need to remove the elevator and use a flat

file to remove a small amount of material from the sides of

the bushings.

When you get the root hinge to fit in to the stabilizer, insert

one of your temporary pins in to the hinge. This allows you

to let go of the root and concentrate on the tip of the ele‐

vator.

Figure #321

Figure #322

Figure #323



Now repeat the last step until the tip hinge fits properly in

to the two smaller bushings on the stabilizer. You can now

install your second smaller pin. This gives you a chance to

let go of the elevator and gather your clevis pins.

Starting at the root hinge you are going to install:

1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin

2 x AN960‐416 washers

1 x AN960‐416L thin washer

1 x MS24665‐132 Cotter Pin

Start with the clevis pin with one washer on the head. Us‐

ing a punch and hammer carefully start driving the pin in to

the hinge. It helps to have a second person hold and align

the center portion of the hinge with the two outer sections.

Drive the first pin in all the way until the shoulder of the pin

rests against the stabilizer bushing.

Repeat this process to the tip hinge using the same pins.

Figure #324

Figure #325

Figure #326



When both clevis pins are installed you can repeat the in‐

stallation on the other elevator. When all four pins are in,

go ahead and install the required washers and cotter pins

to finish the mounting of the elevators.

Each hinge assembly should look like Figure #328 when

finished.

levator Cable Installation

Now it’s time to connect the cables that control the eleva‐

tors. You start by sliding the black steel tab (F11) seen in

Figure #329 in between the left and right elevator horns.

This tab should already be connected to the elevator bal‐

ance cable spring. To make this installation easier, go for‐

ward to the trim handle and make sure the trim (jack

screw) is as high as possible (nose down trim) on the jack

screw. This will take some of the pressure off the spring as

you install the two bolts seen in Figure #329. It will also

help if you lift the trailing edges of the elevators. Doing

this will allow you to install the bolts with no pressure on

the spring. If you have trouble with this, you can discon‐

nect the balance cable from the jack screw yoke while you

install item #F11.

Bolt # 4 is 1 x AN3‐7A

2 x AN960‐10

1 x AN365‐1032 (20 – 25 inch pounds)

Bolt # 5 is 1 x AN6‐7A

2 x AN960‐616

1 X AN365‐624 (160 – 190 inch pounds)

Figure #327

Figure #328

Figure #329



Install the steel tab item #F12 between the bottom of the

elevator horns as seen in Figure #331. Make sure you

ream the holes in item #F12 with a # 11 drill before you

install the plate.

Install using bolt 6 shown here in Figure #332.

Bolt 6 is: 1 x AN3‐7 (bolt)

2 x AN960‐10 (washer)

1 x AN310‐3 (castle nut)

1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)

Tighten this bolt until it is snug and the castle nut lines up

with the hole in the bolt. F12 needs to be able to rotate in

between the elevator horns, so do not over tighten.

The top elevator control cable item #C5 gets attached to

the only remaining hole available on F11. This cable goes

down on an angle to the double pulleys that go under the

floor of the aircraft. The other end of this cable gets at‐

tached to the rear of the tube that goes through the torque

tube. Install the turn buckle to F11 with bolt 7 seen in Fig‐

ure #332.

Bolt 7 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt)

1 x AN960‐10 (Washer)

1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut)


Tighten the castle nut on bolt 7 finger tight. Then tighten

until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with

the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any

further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle

fork end.

Figure #330

Figure #331

Figure #332



Next you are going to attach the lower elevator cable to

the bottom connection of the elevator. Cable item #C6,

which is the cable that connects to the front of the torque

tube, connects to item #F12 as seen in Figure #333. Con‐

nect the turn buckle with bolt 8 seen in Figure #334.

Bolt 8 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt)

1 x AN960‐10 (Washer)

1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut)


Tighten the castle nut on bolt 8 finger tight. Then tighten

until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with

the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any

further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle

fork end.

Here is another view of the lower elevator connection.

Notice how the elevator horns rest against the short piece

of tube connecting the lower longerons. This acts as the

down travel stop for the elevators. The upper stop is the

lower elevator horns hitting the tail post. Original Piper

had an adjustable bolt in place to act as the stop. It was

decided that you could achieve greater elevator travel by

removing this stop and just using the tail post. There is no

strength compromise from this alteration.

At this point you should have an elevator system that looks

similar to the one in Figure #335 less the rudder of course.

You should be able to sit in the front seat of the aircraft

and pull back on the control stick and watch the elevators

go up. Push forward and the elevators should go down!

Don’t get worried about the cable tension. You likely loos‐

ened the turnbuckles slightly as you attached the turn‐

buckle ends to the steel brackets. We will cover the cable

tension in AA09 (Struts & Rigging). When you are ready,

you will rig the entire aircraft. Then you are going to go

through and safety wire all of the turnbuckles.

Figure #333

Figure #334

Figure #335


Rudder Installation –Page #127

This section covers the installation of the rudder, the rud‐

der control cables, and the rudder steering arm that con‐

nects to the tail wheel. Figure #336 below shows the areas

that will be covered.

The first step is to mount the rudder on to the vertical fin.

You should have installed the bronze bushings in the rud‐

der during section AA04, so the rudder should be all set to

install. Same as the elevators, have two smaller pins ready

to temporarily hold the hinges together while you work at

driving the clevis pins in to place.

Starting with the top hinge install:

1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin

2 x AN960‐416 washers

1 x AN960‐416L thin washer

1 x MS24665‐2‐8 Cotter Pin

Repeat this for the lower hinge.

The top and bottom hinge should look like the example in

Figure #337 when you have finished mounting the rudder.

Figure #336

Figure #337



For the next step you want to lock the rudder from moving.

The best way of doing this is to cut two pieces of thin

wood. Notice that the wood blocks used in Figure #338

have masking tape applied to the side against the paint.

Doing this will help protect the paint.

Here you can see a closer view of the blocks used to keep

the rudder aligned with the fin.

Your job now is to install the rudder arm. This rudder arm

is Aircraft Spruce P/N 06‐15900. It has a ¾” shaft that will

slide directly in to the bottom of the rudder post as seen in

Figure #340.

Figure #338

Figure #339

Figure #340



This next step is a job that requires two people to do. First

thing is to get the rudder steering arm square with the rud‐

der. This can be done by using a speed square as seen in

Figures #341 & #342. Place the square against the side of

the lower frame of the rudder. Make sure that the arm is

hitting the square in the same points on the left and the

right sides. Before you drill you need to mark some holes

as seen below in Figure #343.

The two holes seen in Figure #343 will need to be drilled

exactly 90° to the rudder on the center of the front rudder

tube. These holes will go through the rudder tube, through

the rudder steering arm, and back out the center of the

other side of the rudder tube. Mark up from the bottom

3/8” for the first hole and 1” from the bottom for the sec‐

ond hole. Start drilling with a smaller pilot drill through the

assembly and finish off with a # 12 drill. After the first hole

is drilled, install a bolt. This will ensure no movement in

the parts as the second hole is drilled.

Figure #341

Figure #342

Figure #343



Bolts 10 & 11 are:

2 x AN3‐13A Bolts

4 x AN960‐10 Washer

2 x AN365‐1032A Locknuts

Now you are going to install Eye bolts in to the bottom of

the holes on each side of the steering arm you just installed

on the bottom of the rudder. These bolts as seen in figure

9 ,allow an easy connection point for the spring connectors

that go to the tail wheel. These bolts require:

2 x AN42B‐7A Eye Bolt

6 x AN960‐10 Washer

2 x AN365‐1032A Locknut

As you torque the eye bolts (50‐70 inch lbs) make sure you

keep the flat tabs on the ends square to the rudder steering

arm.

Now you can connect the tension spring kit (Aircraft

Spruce P/N 2151) as seen in Figure #346. The link chain

that comes with the kit is longer than needed and will re‐

quire cutting. As you fit the spring kit, you need to make

sure that each side is the same length and that there is a

small amount of pressure on each spring (you should see a

small gap between each coil of the springs)

Note: Your tail wheel is a caster and spins 360 degrees.

The tail wheel shown in Figure #346 is pointing to the

front because the aircraft was pushed backwards into the

hanger.

Figure #344

Figure #345

Figure #346



Next thing to do is connect the rudder cable

This job requires the following hardware:

2 x AN23‐9 Clevis Bolts

6 x AN960‐10 Washers

2 x AN960‐10L Thin Washers

2 x AN310‐3 Castle nuts

2 x MS24665‐132 Cotter pins

A Clevis bolt is used here because this is a high shear load

area.

You will notice there are 5 holes in the split steel tabs that

come on the ends of the rudder cables. This is for tension

adjustment on the cables. Use the middle hole to begin

with, as seen in Figure #348, (this is not a clevis bolt in the

photo, just a regular AN3 bolt to demonstrate the center

hole)

The tail is now finished except for the rigging section.

Figure #347

Figure #348


Skylight & Side Glass Installation –Page #132

This section is going to cover the installation of the side

window glass and the skylight glass.

There are two different side window configurations offered

in the PA‐18 and PA‐12 kits. The “C” Frame shown in Fig‐

ure #349 and the L21 style shown in Figure #350 Both of

these configurations have a glass skylight directly above

the pilots seat. The “C” style has a left & right side window

in the shape of a “C” for the passenger. The L21 style has a

skylight for the passenger and much larger side windows.

For both window styles should start with the side windows.

You will notice that there is a channel or groove for the

glass to sit in located at the bottom and the back of the

window frame. The easiest way to begin is to make a pa‐

per pattern. We suggest using 5 – 6 sheets of heavy Bristol

board paper. Start by placing the Bristol board in the lower

channel and slide it in the rear channel. If you have rare

earth magnets it would be a large help in holding the Bris‐

tol board in place during the pattern process ensuring an

accurate fit. You will have to make 3 cuts in the paper to

have a flat fit 1 for the fuel line 2nd for the wing root attach

point and the 3rd for the rear spar attachment point as

show in Figure #351.

Note: The fuel lines on each side are routed out through the

glass and up in the wing root area. When cutting these holes

in the paper to the hole pattern can be bigger than the fuel

line and cut in a slot fashion as seen in Figure #351. Any

small un‐uniformity in cutting this hole in the window will be

un‐shown by an interior trim cover that will get glued directly

to the plastic. The outside portion will be hidden within in‐

side the wing root fairing.

When tracing out your pattern you will run a straight line

up the forward edge of the rear door post to the bottom of

the rear spar attachment point and then trace along the

top of the air frame as shown in Figure #352. Cut around

the rear spar attachment point and continue up to the top

of the frame.

When you have your paper pattern finished it should work

for both sides of your aircraft. It is suggested that you en‐

sure correct fit by physically checking that the pattern does

indeed fit for the opposite side.

Figure #350

Figure #349

Figure #351

Figure #352


Glass Installation –Page #133

Now that your side window pattern has been created you

must decide on what kind of plastic you are to use for your

aircraft. We suggest using Lexan due to its durable proper‐

ties. You may use Plexi‐glass if you wish.

For a good straight cut we suggest using a band saw to

make long contoured cuts. If you have not acquired a band

saw then a hand held grinder will also do the same job but

will not give a good clean cut.

If you do use a band saw, lay strips of masking tape onto

the table of the saw as seen in Figure #355. This will help

prevent any possible scratches in the lexan as you make

your cuts. It is a good idea to place a strip of masking tape

onto each cut line that you are going to make to minimize

any possible cracking in the lexan during the cutting proc‐

ess.

Figure #3

Figure #353

Figure #355

Figure #354



It is easier to have someone help you hold the weight of

the sheet of Lexan as you run it through the band saw. You

will have better control on larger pieces with the needed

help.

Take your time when making each cut & be careful to fol‐

low your lines exactly.

After each piece has been cut and the fit has been checked,

file the edges to remove any burrs.

Figure #3

Figure #356

Figure #358

Figure #357



Now that we have talked about technique on cutting the

Lexan, lets go ahead and start placing your paper pattern

onto a sheet of Lexan, try to arrange your pieces on the

sheet to best utilize the material.

Place tape down where your outside trace lines need to be

secured to ensure that the paper patterns won’t move,

then trace the perimeter of each side window onto the

plastic. Once all of your patterns are all traced go ahead

and cut out the first window.

Now that you have one side window cut out of the plastic,

you will want to test the fit your glass. Slide your window

in the lower channel and to the rear channel of the opening

to check for a correct fit.

Note: You will need to keep the window held out to clear

the rear wing root attachment point as you slide it in.

Before you remove the window you will need to mark a

hole for the aluminum fuel line shown in Figure #360 item

#1 .These fuel line holes will be one of the hardest holes to

create and maybe necessary to mark and fit the fuel line a

few times to get a good correct fit. You will also have to cut

out a ¾” hole for each of the flap actuator cables as show in

Figure #360 item # 2. This hole requires to be 90 degrees

out from the forward most part of the pulley groove.

Imagine a line from the left flap pulley to the right flap pul‐

ley. Now extend that line left and right until it hits the plas‐

tic. That point is to be the center of the ¾” hole.

After your flap cable holes are marked you can then re‐

move the glass to drill the ¾” flap actuator cable & fuel line

holes.

If the depth of the lexan plastic is to wide and will not fit

between the narrow window channel you will need to taper

the window edge that will go through the channel. If this

happens we suggest to measure the depth of the window

channel with a ruler or scale, then run a strip of masking

tape parallel to the edge of the glass and inset towards the

middle of the sheet by the depth of the channel. You will

need to carefully grind the plastic with a hand held grinder

at a slight angle 5 – 10 degrees max. Make a uniform taper

in the plastic along the side you wish to taper out. Take

care that you do not to cut out past your tape line. Ensure

that you are only grinding the plastic that will be hidden

inside the channel.

Figure #3

Figure #359

Figure #360



Once the side window are in place, the final step is to trim

the lower front corner in a 45 degree angle. Start by mark‐

ing a line from the bottom of the channel to the center of

the longeron as seen in Figure #362.

It is suggested to use metal guards and secure the guards

by using tape. When cutting the Lexan plastic we suggest

using a knife edge soldering iron to ensure a correct and

straight edge as shown in Figure #363. File any possible

burs smooth in the Lexan plastic. Repeat the past steps for

the other side window.

Rear Skylight Installation:

Securing the rear skylight window will require 8 screws for

each side of the skylight and 8 screws along the top of the

steel air frame. Start measuring the sides of the skylight

first. Start your measurement from the rear wing root tab

3/4” and then measure 3/4” from the rear skylight transi‐

tion 3/4” in. Then measure & mark the 3rd hole at 5” and

the 4th hole at 9” as shown in Figure #364. Ensure that

each of these holes are centered on the metal channel.

Then measure the rear 4 holes starting 3/4” from each tran‐

sition ends. Make each of the holes parallel with the 1st 4

holes so to keep with consistency. Once when all the side

holes are marked drill each hole with a 11/64” drill bit &

then de‐bur any matterial. To mark the 8 holes along the

top of the air frame start the measurement 3/4” from each

end of the frame and 3/4” from the middle spine. Then

evenly mark the other 4 holes.

Figure #361

Figure #363

Figure #364



The rear passenger skylight had slight bend in the glass.

This bend tapers to nothing towards the front. To achieve

this bend you are required to use a hand brake. Ensure

that the skylight window material still has the protective

coating on it so that the jaws will not to scratch the plastic.

When using the brake drop the jaw of the side you want

the bend on. It is acceptable to only have one jaw closed

on the brake as you make a bend as shown in Figure #365.

Lexan plastic has a natural spring to it so it requires some

over bending. Try 45 degree on the brake and then check

your angle. Keep re‐bending until you achieve the correct

angle.

Note: Due to the high cost of Lexan plastic and the cost of

tooling to correctly create this rear skylight we here at

Turbine Cubs of Wyoming LLC can do this step for you at a

small cost.

After you have successfully created the needed bend in the

rear skylight the window should look like Figure #366.

Place the rear skylight onto the airframe and place the

Lexan on top of the rear channel as shown in Figure #367.

Have the rear skylight’s left & right rear edge flush with the

rear channel and then clamp to the airframe for a quick

measurement. You should notice a slight over hang along

the center spine. Mark the excess plastic and then cut and

remove this excess material.

Figure #365

Figure #367

Figure #366



Mark the over hanging material on both sides flush with

the airframe as shown in Figure #368 . Then cut off excess

material. After all required cuts are made to the rear sky‐

light slide the Lexan into the rear channel & ensure that the

skylight window in centered, then clamp in position. You

will now mark each hole that you made in the airframe

onto the Lexan. Remove the Skylight and drill out each of

these holes on a flat surface to ensure that no possible

stress cracking happens during the drilling process. We

suggest using a specially ground point , 60 degree tip to

prevent fractures, chipping or cracking the Lexan plastic.

After all of the holes have been cut out of the Lexan place

clecos along the sides of the rear skylight to secure the

plastic in place. Now you are going to measure the top sky‐

light window. Follow the same procedure using the Bristol

board to make a pattern and then cut out the Lexan to fit

for the top skylight position. You will need to create 8 holes

in the top front of the steel airframe.& 4holes for each

side . The top front holes measurement will be the same

measurement as the lower 8 holes for the top rear skylight.

The measurement of the remaining 4 holes for each side of

the top skylight should start 3/4” from the corners of the

air frame and then measure the two holes evenly between

the front holes to the rear holes.

Drill & debur each the holes with the same size drill bit as

before and then secure the top skylight and mark the hole

onto the Lexan remove and then drill each of the marked

holes as described during the past steps.

Place the top skylight onto the airframe and secure with

clecos. The top window will over lap the rear skylight as

shown in Figure #370. This overlapping will help with the

ram airflow pressure. When installing the front windshield

you will over lap the top of the front skylight to complete

the correct air flow.

Note: Do the following steps only after all of the inside wing

root connections are completed. Wing root connection steps

will be covered latter in our manual.

Figure #368

Figure #369

Figure #370



After all required wing root connections are complete you

will then be ready to place the 4 painted finishing trim

strips. These will be used to cover each of the window tran‐

sitions as shown in Figure #371 . The hardware required to

secure these 4 finishing trims strips are clear plastic wash‐

ers, screws & lock nuts. The clear washers are not supplied

with your kit but may be purchased thru Aircraft Spruce.

These washers are to ensure that your finished paint does

not get damaged during the screw installation. Each of the

screws will go threw the Lexan skylight windows, trim

strips and airframe & the forward 8 screws will screw

through the top of the windshield. Then use lock nuts for

each of the screws. Some of needed locknuts will fit

through the steal airframe channels. Installing these lock‐

nuts maybe a tight fit and may require two people to install

and secure each screw.

Figure #372 shows the side window trim that is required to

hold the side windows in place. Some of the Smith cubs

kits did not come with these trim panels. If you still require

these covers you can purchase them from Turbine Cubs.

Figure #372

Figure #371



Notice in Figure #373 & 374 the small cut outs for the side

trim strips. Both the top and bottom notching that is re‐

quired is easily done with hand snips and files. This same

type of trim strip is used to hold the “C” framed window in

place.

Figure #374

Figure #373


Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #141

This section is going to cover the installation of the wheels

and brakes. When complete your landing gear should look

like a ready to fly landing gear system as in Figure #375.

The tires in are 8.50 x 6 size tires (Aircraft Spruce Part # 06

‐21175) and they come with the tubes. The 850 tire is a

nice size and gives the aircraft a proportionate look. They

a large enough to perform most “off airport “ maneuvering

without sacrificing cruise speed.

The 6” wheels that are standard with the kit will accommo‐

date most any tire size up to and including 31”. Larger than

31” requires a 10” wheel. Keep in mind that 35” tires will

reduce your cruise speed by as much as 20 mph compared

to the 850 tires. Single puck brake calipers are standard

with the kit. If you are going to use 26” tires or larger it is

recommended that you upgrade to the double puck brake

calipers. The mass of the larger tires require the extra

braking force.

Step #1 : Mount Tires

Mount the tires and tubes on to the wheels. When you

open the box with the wheels and brakes inside you will

notice that each wheel assembly is in a plastic bag. Open

the bag and remove the wheel assembly. You will notice a

warning label notifying you that you must repack the

wheel bearings. We will get to that later.

The wheel assembly is held together with 3 x 5/16” bolts.

You will need 2 ‐ ratchet wrenches with 2 ‐ 1/2” sockets. It

will also be easier to have short socket extensions to reach

in to the bolts due to the design of the wheel. Remove the

3 bolts that hold the wheel assembly together. The assem‐

bly will split in to two halves along the wheel split line seen

in Figure #376.

Clean the inside of the tire, making sure there are no parti‐

cles of debris from packing and shipping. Lubricate the

inside of the tire lightly with talc (baby powder). Inflate the

tube to slightly round. Lubricate the tube as well with talc.

You want only a light dusting over the tube and inside the

tire. This will prevent the tube from sticking to the inside

of the tire during inflation.

Figure #376

Figure #375



Insert the tube in to the tire with the valve stem facing

away from the red balance dot seen in Figure #377. The

red balance dot will be on the back side of the tire and the

valve stem will face the front or outside of the tire. This is

done so that when looking at the aircraft from the side, the

balance marks are not noticeable.

Bolt the two wheel halves back together around the tire.

Make sure that when you mate the front half of the wheel

to the tire, the valve stem on the tube goes through the

valve stem hole. Be cautious that the tube does not get

pinched between the wheel halves as they mate together.

If you have trouble with this you can deflate the tube

slightly when mating the wheel halves.

Install and tighten the three 5/16” bolts to 150 inch pounds

of torque. The heads of the bolts are on the brake disc side

of the wheel with the nuts on the valve stem side. The

torque value is also printed on the data tag on the wheels

as seen in Figure #377.

Inflate the tires to their rated pressure. Deflate the tires to

allow them to equalize stretch. Re‐inflate the tires to rated

pressure. When finished they should look like the tires in

Figure #378.

Figure #377

Figure #378



Pack the Bearings

Inside one of the plastic bags that hold the wheel assem‐

blies will be Grove Aircrafts Installation Instructions.

There will also be a “CAUTION” note advising you that the

bearings need to be packed with grease. The Grove in‐

struction sheet notifies you that the manufacturer put a

small amount of Aeroshell‐22 grease on the bearings so

they would not corrode during shipping. It is your respon‐

sibility to completely pack the wheel bearings with more

grease. It is recommended that you use more Aeroshell‐22

grease (Aircraft Spruce part # 08‐05490) . If you decide to

use some other type is grease it is recommended that you

completely clean the manufacturers shipping grease off of

the bearings. Do this by using Varsol and a small clean

paint brush to wash the grease off. Once completely clean

and dry you may pack the bearing with some other wheel

bearing grease. The logical solution is just to use more of

the same grease the manufacturer recommends.

To access the bearings you need to first remove the re‐

tainer ring as seen in Figure #379. A flat screw driver

works well to un‐seat the ring from its groove. Be careful

not to distort the spring by applying too much force. When

prying the spring out of its groove cover the spring with

your other hand so that it does not fly across the room or in

to your face.

After the spring is removed, remove the seal cover seen in

Figure #389.

Figure #379

Figure #388

Figure #389

Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs


Next remove the protective felt ring seen in Figure #390.

You should now be able to lift the bearing out of the wheel

by grabbing the red protective dust cap. The bearing is

actually stuck to the washer by the packing grease. Hold

the large washer in one hand and the bearing in the other.

You should be able to separate the bearing from the

washer and dust cap.

Set the bearing down on a clean surface (old newspaper)

and arrange all the other pieces that you removed on the

bench. Now repeat this same process with the other side

of the wheel and also the other complete wheel so that

when finished you have all 4 bearings laid out in front of

you. It is not necessary but a good practice to keep all the

other parts from each bearing assembly separated.

Now you can pack all 4 bearings at the same time. You can

see in Figure #392 that you want to completely fill in the

space between the inner and outer race of each bearing.

This is the space between each of the little round rods all

around the bearing. It is cleaner to use latex gloves for this

next step but not necessary.

Figure #391

Figure #392

Figure #390

Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs


Place a golf ball size dollop of grease in the palm of your

left hand (assuming you are right handed). Holding the

bearing in your right hand and work the grease in to the

bearing until the grease is coming out the top of each

space between the rollers. The photo below is not the ac‐

tual grease used, because it is the wrong color, but is

meant to give you the idea of the method required to prop‐

erly pack the bearing.

When you have packed all the bearings, install them in to

the wheels in the exact reverse order as you took the bear‐

ings out. Make sure the retainer lock rings are seated in

their groves and secure. At this point you should have new

grease in all your bearings and the rudder installed on to

the rims.

Set the tires aside and you are going to put the brake

mounting plates and calipers on to the axel.

Your axels are likely resting on blocks of wood on the floor

as seen in Figure #394. You need to lift the axels up on to

higher blocks of wood that will allow you to install the

brakes and wheels. It is recommended you have two peo‐

ple do this step. The easiest way to do this is to stick a pipe

through the end of the axel. The pipe shown here is a pre‐

bent pipe and did not bend from lifting the aircraft. One

person can lift the axel up using the pipe while the other

slides the wood blocks under the axel.

You can see a sample of the wood blocks in Figure #395.

Notice the paper towel between the wood block and the

newly painted surface of the gear leg.

Now you need to clean any paint from the powder coating

process and any material from the four holes that will bolt

the brake mounting plate to the gear leg. Use a 5/16” ream

to clean the bolt holes. Be careful to keep the ream parallel

with the axel as you spin it in the four holes.

Figure #393

Figure #394

Figure #395



Install the brake mounting plate on to the axel as seen in

Figure #396. Note the direction the plate faces and the

bushings are facing forward. Also note the bushings are

longer on the inside and this longer side faces the center

line of aircraft.

The four mounting holes in the brake backing plate are 3/8”

in size. You just finished cleaning the mounting holes on

the gear leg with a 5/16” ream. These are obviously not the

same size. The manufacturer includes 8 bushings to step

down these holes from 3/8” to 5”16”. It is important that

each of the four holes on the brake caliper mounting plate

get a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing.

NOTE: It has come to our attention that the manufac‐

turer included 4 bushings in some wheel and brake sets

and 8 bushings in other sets. If you received only4 bush‐

ing in your wheel and brake set please contact us and we

will send you the other 4. The manufacturer has been

made aware of this mishap and from the time of writing

this section all wheel and brake kits will include 8 of these

bushings.

Figure #396



Once a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing is installed in to

each of the four holes of each mounting plate you can in‐

stall the bolts. The hardware list requires:

8 x AN5‐6A Bolts

8 x AN960‐516 Washers on the head

8 x AN960‐516L Thin washers on the nut

8 x AN365‐524 Locknuts)

When installing the bolts and washers and nuts ,you want

to have a thick washer on the head of the bolt before in‐

serting in to the hole. Then you want to install a thin

washer and a elastic stop nut. The nuts on the upper two

bolts are going to be very close to the gear leg structure. If

necessary you can swap the thick and thin washers so that

the thick washer is on the head and the thin washer is on

the nut side. This will give you a bit more clearance be‐

tween the end of the bolt and the gear leg.

Tighten all four bolts on each gear leg between 100‐140

inch lbs or 8.33‐11.66 foot pounds. Use a 1/2” wrench to

hold the nut and a torque wrench with a 1/2” socket and

extension on the head of the bolt. This is depicted in Fig‐

ure #397.

After the four bolts are tightened you need to install the

wheel spacer. The wheel spacer is roughly 1 13/16” long

and 1 1/2” ID. It should slide on to the axel with little ef‐

fort.

Figure #397




The next step is to install the wheel and tire assembly on to

the axel. You will notice that the inner bearing of the

wheel contacts the edge of the wheel spacer. The wheel

spacer tube maintains the proper spacing between the

brake disc and the brake caliper. Obviously, make sure

that the valve stem is facing out and the brake discs face

the center of the aircraft.

Now you need to pre‐load the wheel bearings. Rotate the

wheel and tire while tightening the axel nut until it is so

tight that you are unable to turn the wheel and tire. Care

must be taken to not damage the valve stem during this

process. Loosen the axel nut just enough so that the wheel

and tire are on the “edge” of rotating freely. Install a safety

cotter pin through the axel nut and axel as seen in Figure

#400.

Cotter pins required : 2 x AN381‐4‐40

These cotter pins are a little long (2 1/2”) and will need to

be cut to length with side cutters. You will bend one side

180 degrees around the nut, estimate the length and trim

the excess. Then bend the end in until it almost contacts

the main part of the cotter pin. The other side of the cotter

pin requires a 90 degree bend backwards towards the bear‐

ing. Estimate the length and trim with side cutters before

bending. You want the end to be as long as possible with‐

out actually touching the bearing’s protective dust cap.

Some of the earlier Smith Aviation landing gear legs did

not have a deep enough grove in the end of the axel to ac‐

cept the cotter pin. If you tighten the axel nut and discover

the grove is not deep enough, you need to remove some

more material. The easiest method is to use an angle

grinder as seen in Figure #401. You could also use a small

round file to do this job. Whatever method used, be very

careful to not damage the threads on the axel.

Figure #401

Figure #400



Next you are going to install the Brake Calipers. Notice

that on one end of the brake caliper there is a brass fitting

with a black rubber plug on the end. This is the bleeder

plug. On the other end of the caliper there should be a

plastic plug that you need to remove. This is the hole that

accepts an elbow. The fitting used here is a AN822‐4D.

On the pipe threaded end (not the compression end) put

some LOCTITE 545 thread sealant on to the threads.

Tighten the fitting so that when done ,the elbow faces to‐

ward the two pins as seen in Figure #402.

Next remove the two bolts that hold the outer brake pad

plate on to the brake caliper assembly. This requires a

7/16” wrench and is shown in Figure #403 and Figure

#404.

Figure #402

Figure #404

Figure #403



Install the brake caliper on to the mounting plate by sliding

the outer brake pad between the tire and disc as seen in

Figure #405. Slide the caliper (with the inner brake pad)

pins in to the holes on the mounting plate. Install the bolts

that you just removed in Figure #406 and torque between

100‐140 inch pounds (8.33‐11.66 foot pounds).

Figure #405

Figure #406



Brake Line Installation –Page #151

Connect each top gear leg brake hose to the forward mas‐

ter brake cylinder 90° fittings. Check all the hose connec‐

tions & elbows to make sure they are all tight, example

shown in Figures #409, 410, 411 & 412.

Figure #409

Figure #410

Figure #411

Figure #412


Brake Line Installation –Page #152

Attach a tube from the nozzle of a pressure tank containing

the brake fluid to the brake bleeder valve as shown in Fig‐

ure #413. Make sure that the hose is bubble free before

attaching.

Have one helper press & hold forward on one of the master

cylinder shaft to fully extended to open up the internal by‐

pass valve, as shown in Figure #414.

Then open the bleeder valve. Pump brake fluid from the

bleeder valve up in to the reservoir, until reservoir supply is

about 1/4” full. Close the bleeder valve when complete and

remove the service hose, as shown in Figure #415. Have

your helper release the master cylinder pedal.

Repeat the same steps for the other side, but 3/4 fill the

reservoir with the brake fluid. After you have completed

both sides you will bleed the brake system to ensure no air

is in the lines.

Have your helper press and hold the other side master cyl‐

inder pedal. Take a clean container to capture the brake

fluid and open the other side bleeder valve, allow any brake

fluid to drain in to the container. Close the bleeder valve

and have your helper release the master cylinder and re‐

press again. Open the bleeder valve again and capture the

brake fluid. Repeat until all air pockets are removed. Close

the brake bleeder valve.

When finished, the brake pedal should feel firm and not

spongy. Repeat the same steps for the other side.

Figure #413

Figure #414

Figure #415

Figure #416

Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs

Engine Baffling –Page #153

When installing the engine baffling you can either make

your own or purchase our engine baffling kit. Our baffling

kits will save you a lot of time, frustration & will ensure that

you will have a good fit.

Figure #417 shows our baffling kit laid out from front to

back. We have laid out our kit in this fashion to give you a

good idea in how to install the kit on your engine.

You will need to make slight modifications to the baffling

kit to have it mount correctly on your engine.

Start with panel #1. The panel will be placed at the forward

front right side of the engine. As you fit the panel in posi‐

tion, you should see a place on the engine where you can

mount the plate. Figure #418 has an arrow pointing to the

location where we drilled a hole through the panel and

connected it to the engine. Mark the location on the plate

and drill the needed hole. Remove the bolt from the en‐

gine and place it through the panel and back in to the en‐

gine. Leave the bolt finger tight. We will later have to re‐

move all of the baffling panels to place on the rubber de‐

flectors.

Place panel #2 on the front right side of the engine. It will

fit around the rocker cover. You will see two spots where

you can install screws through the panel and in the engine.

At this point, mark the securing points between panel #1 &

#2. You may need to drill these locations and place nuts &

bolts to hold the two panels together.

Figure #417

Figure #418

Figure #419



Panel #4 will require the spark plug hole to be drilled out,

lockwire hole to be created on the lower tab location and

will need to have rivet holes created between Panel #4 and

Panel #3. Panel #4 will be attached to #3 panel using 4 or

more rivets. Place the panels together as shown in Figure

#420. Mark, drill and rivet the locations.

The lockwire will string through the hole and connect to

the front #1 panel. This will force the baffling panels to

hug the engine tightly to ensure correct airflow.

Place the panels on the engine and secure using the two

screw locations around the rocker cover. The screw loca‐

tions are shown in Figure #421 items 1‐4.

Place panel #9 left side forward of the engine. You should

see two locations where this panel will be secured to the

engine. Mark the two locations and drill out the needed

holes. Figure #422 shows the panel secured to the engine.

Place panel #8 over the forward left side rocker cover and

secure to the engine using two screws. Mark four securing

locations between Panel #9 & #8. Drill and rivet the four

locations. The holes you will need to create are shown in

Figure #423.

Figure #420

Figure #421

Figure #423

Figure #422



The next step is to sub‐assemble panels #5, #6 & #7 to‐

gether. Drill out a total of 8 holes. Figure #424 shows

three holes evenly spaced between panel #5 and panel #6.

Center the holes on the #5 bent edge. Drill through both

the #5 panel and through #6 panel. Rivet the 3 locations

together.

Place panel #7 under panel #6. Mark 3 evenly spaced loca‐

tion for rivets 1/2” from the edge of panel #6. You may

need to drill out a lockwire location in panel #5 & panel #6

& create a hole in panel #6 for the spark plug wires, as


Place the panels on the left side of the engine & secure the

panels to the engine by placing two screws through panel

#7 and around the left side rear rocker cover. The left side

assembly will look like Figure #426.

The rear panels #4 & #5 will need to be secured together

using either a bolt or rivet. Mark and drill through both

panels to create a securing point.

At this point the rubber deflector will need to be cut to fit

around your baffling. It is suggested you make the rubber

baffling in to 5 separate pieces, two for the left & right side

top, two for the left & right side lower front & one for the

top rear of the engine. Figure #427 shows the baffling

installed all the way around the engine.

The rubber baffling should be about 3” wide. 1” of the rub‐

ber will be mounted on the metal panels and the left over

2” will be hanging over the metal panels. Cut the rubber to

fit. When all of the rubber has been created, use spring

clamps to hold in place, drill rivet hole locations spaced

about 1” apart. Start from one end, drill the hole and place

a washer on a rivet. Run the rivet through the rubber &

metal baffling, then pop the rivet in place. Repeat the

process until all of the baffling is secured.

Figure #424

Figure #425

Figure #426

Figure #427



Figure #428 shows one of two rubber grommet used to

protect the spark plug wires from rubbing the metal baf‐

fling. You can use any type of rubber grommet that will

keep the wires from rubbing / chaffing on the metal baf‐

fling. However, if you use a large grommet that will allow

air to go through it, you may have to silicone the opening

of the grommet to stop the air from going through it. We

suggest you use a solid grommet and cut out the unwanted

rubber and fit the spark plug wires into it.

When the rubber baffling has been installed the next step

is to run the lockwire between the front metal baffling and

the rear baffling. Examples are shown in Figure #429 &

#430.

Figure #428

Figure #429

Figure #430


Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #157

Find the 4 lift strut forks item (#W18B) Use a caliper to

measure two of the forks, adjust the fork’s nut 2.360” from

the center of the fork’s bolt hole, then adjust the other two

fork’s nuts at 2.298” an example is shown in Figure #431.

Place tape on each nut and fork, so that the nut does not

move out of the set measurement, example shown in Fig‐

ure #432. Use a magic marker to mark what fork is the

front and rear. The front fork will be the longest measure‐

ment from the nut.

To place all 4 forks on the air frame, use a dead blow ham‐

mer. Lightly tap each fork in position. Take special care

that you do not scratch or chip the airframes power coated

paint, as seen in Figure #433.

Figure #431

Figure #432

Figure #433



When each fork is set in place use a NAS1106‐10D bolt and

place in to the top of the fork and through the airframe.

Use a metal punch and hammer to install each bolt. We

suggest using an old towel or blanket to cover the side of

the aircraft. The towel / blanket will help reduce any possi‐

ble damage to the aircrafts paint during install, shown in

Figure #434.

Place a AN960‐616 washer on the end of the bolt, then

torque a AN310‐6 castle nut to 18.74 foot pounds and then

install the MS24665‐283 cotter pin. Bend cotter pin to

complete each fork, shown in Figure #435.

Note: You may need to turn the nut back one hole to fit

cotter pin in place after torque.

Brush on permatex anti‐seize (Part# 09‐28410) on each

fork’s threads and lightly wipe off the excess with a paper

towel. The threads should have a even covering as shown

in Figure #436.

Place the aircraft in a wide open area so that you will have

enough room to install both wings on to the aircraft. Use 1

saw horses and place the wing tip on it, the other saw

horse should be placed at the 5th rib from the root end, as

shown in Figure #437. Not doing this could damage the

wing’s fabric.

Figure #434

Figure #435

Figure #436

Figure #437



Clean the airframes wing connecting points with a 5/16”

ream tool, as shown in Figure #438. Make sure that the

ream tool is straight when cleaning these holes. It is sug‐

gested to use a pair of vise grips to clamp on to the ream

tool so that you can get in to the tight angles. All that you

should need to clean is the power coated paint in the at‐

tachment point.

When installing each wing, you will need the assistance of

2 other people (3 people in total). Have one person lift and

carry the wing at the tip, the other to hold at the wings

root. Carefully lift and position the wing in to place so that

the front and rear spars slide through the steel brackets of

the airframe. The third person will need to use 2 small

punches or drift pins to temporally secure the wing in

place, by sliding the pins through the steel brackets on the

airframe (with the spars positioned in between each steel

fitting), example shown in Figure #439.

The person who gets chosen to lift the wing at the tip, will

be required to hold the wing up while the other two people

get the lift struts installed. It might be a good idea to have

the strongest helper located at the tip. The person at the

wing tip will be needed to make slight adjustments when

installing the lift struts. With the help of another person

thread on the front lift strut until the strut touches the

fork’s nut. The thick end of the strut must be facing for‐

ward for a correct install. The end of the strut needs to be

held high when screwing on to the fork, as seen in Figure

#440. Take great care when installing each lift strut, the

last thing that you want to do, is cross thread these items.

Place the front lift strut on to the wing, use a small punch

or drift pin to hold in position, as seen in Figure #441.

Figure #438

Figure #439

Figure #440

Figure #441



To install the rear lift strut, follow the same procedures

that you did for the front strut. When both struts are in

place, you can use a step latter to hold the wing up, keep‐

ing the aircraft and wing from tipping over. It is suggested

to use either some pillows or blankets to protect the fabric

and paint when doing this. The pillows or blankets will

also assist with keeping the aircraft level, as shown in Fig‐

ure #442.

When both the front and rear lift struts are in place remove

the front small punch holding pin and replace it with a AN5

‐17A bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. The head of the bolt

must be facing forward. Use a hammer and a driving pin to

carefully knock in place, as shown in Figure #443. When

the bolt is through place a AN960‐516 washer on the end

of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A locknut. Then torque

the nut at 100‐140 inch lbs (8.33‐116.66 foot lbs) to com‐

plete.

Remove the rear holding pin and replace it with a AN5‐15A

Bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. Again the head of the bolt

must be facing forward as well. Carefully tap the bolt in

place with a hammer and driving pin, shown in Figure

#445. When the bolt is through place a AN960‐516

washer on the end of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A lock‐

nut. Then torque the nut at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.

Figure #442

Figure #443

Figure #445




Remove the holding pin from the front lift strut and place a

tie down ring on the wings attachment point. Take a AN5‐

33A bolt and slide it in to the tie down ring and lift strut.

The bolts head must be placed forward, then place the 3/4”

spacer bushing at the end of the bolt then place the pulley

assembly kit on the end of the bolt. Place a AN960‐516

washer and a AN365‐524A locknut to finish. The final as‐

sembly is shown in Figure #448.

Note: The pulley assembly bracket must be installed at

the same angle as the lift strut. Torque the bolt and locknut

at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.

Remove the rear lift strut holding pin and replace it with a

AN5‐22A bolt, the head of the bolt must be facing forward.

Slide a AN960‐516 washer on the end of the bolt and finish

with a AN365‐524A locknut. Torque the bolt and nut at

18.74 foot pounds to complete.

When the front and rear lift struts are complete, repeat the

same procedures for the other wing and lift struts.

Installing Jury Struts

Find the front and rear jury strut clamps item (#W25 &

W26). Cut to size a strip of Teflon anti‐chafe tape and in‐

stall the Teflon tape inside each strut clamp, as shown in

Figure #450.

Bend up two plumb lines, you could use old clothes hang‐

ers to make these or any metal rods. The main thing to

remember is to make the plumb lines straight, as shown in

Figure #451.

Figure #448

Figure #449

Figure #450

Figure #451


Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #162

The airframe must be level to have a correct plumb line

location. Place a level along the top of the airframe by the

front or rear window. When the airframe is level, hang two

plumb lines in the jury strut holes attached at the wing,


Use a long ruler to mark the center line on each lift strut.

The ruler should be long enough to touch both front and

rear lift strut. Mark a center line for both lift struts, shown

in Figure #453.

Then install the front jury strut clamps. The front clamp

will have a retainer clip on the backside of the clamp. Place

the clamp center of your line, as shown in Figure #454.

Place a AN960‐10 washer on a AN3‐13A bolt , then run the

bolt through the forward side of the front jury bracket then

place a AN960‐10L washer on the bolt then thread a jury

bracket tab on to the bolt with a AN960‐10L washer on the

other side of the tab. Run the bolt through the other side of

the jury bracket and then place a AN960‐10 washer and

AN365‐1032 locknut on the end of the bolt. Figure #23

shows the full assembly.

Figure #452

Figure #453

Figure #454

Figure #455



Pitot line to left side jury strut installation

Take the front left side jury strut and measure 5” from the

tip and use a magic marker to make a mark on the front

edge. Use a center hole punch to score a starting mark and

drill this location with a 1/8” Drill bit to start the hole. Drill

the hole at a 45° angle. Then use a 17/64” drill bit to

enlarge the hole as shown in Figure #456. Then repeat the

same steps to the other side & end of the jury strut.

Cut a 2 foot piece of 03‐40400 ¼” aluminum tubing. Slide

one end of the tubing in to the front side drill hole of the

jury strut, then run the tubing through to the other drill

hole. Leave 5” on each end of the tubing, then make 90°

bends on both ends of the tubing, as shown in Figure

#457.

Solder the aluminum tubing to the jury strut by using a

propane torch. First heat both the jury strut and then alu‐

minum tubing. The jury strut will take a bit longer to heat

up then the small aluminum tube. When both items are

heated enough place solder between the jury strut and the

tubing, fill the drill hole with solder, do not worry to much if

its not pretty, the main concern is that the hole is com‐

pletely filled, as shown in Figure #458.

You will need to repeat this step to the other side of the

jury strut.

When the jury strut and aluminum tube are cooled file the

solder so that its smooth and ecstatically pleasing, as


Figure #456

Figure #457

Figure #458

Figure #459



Place a front jury strut item #W23 on one side of the wings

front tab location. The jury strut must be centered on the

tab & the tip of the jury strut must not touch or rum the

bottom of the wing. Use a magic marker and mark

through the wings tab a center hole location, as seen in

Figure #460.

Use a #11 Drill bit to drill the marked location, as shown in

Figure #461.

Place a AN3‐4A bolt through the jury strut and wing tab,

then place a AN355‐1032 locknut at the end of the bolt to

temporally hold the jury strut in place. Place the lower end

of the jury strut to the front lift strut clamp tab. Have the

jury strut centered to the tab and mark a center hole loca‐

tion. You may have to cut the jury struts length to have a

correct fit.

Remove the jury strut and drill the second hole.

After the second hole has been created and the length of

the jury strut is to your satisfaction place the jury strut on

to the wings attachment point. The jury strut should sit in

between the wind’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the

jury strut & the wing tab , as shown in Figure #463.

Figure #460

Figure #461

Figure #462

Figure #463



Place the lower end of the jury strut in between the lift

strut’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the holes, the

bolts head must be pointing away from the aircraft, as


Note: Repeat the same steps for the other three jury struts.

When all four jury struts are in place measure in between

the front lower jury strut bolt location to the rear lower jury

strut bolt location. Take the measurement of the distance.

Find the jury strut spacer bar item #W27 and center the

distance of your measurement along the length of the

spacer bar. At both ends of the bar, mark a center hole

location and drill using a #11 drill bit. Place the spacer bar

in between the two lift struts and slide on to the lower jury

bolts, as shown in Figure #465.

Note: Repeat the same steps for the other sides spacer bar.

The final out come should look like Figure #466.

When both sets of jury struts and spacer bars are complete,

label each item so when you remove them to paint, the re‐

assembly process will become much easier.

The final assembly for both sets of jury struts will use a

AN960‐10 washer on the head of the AN3‐5A bolt, run the

bolt through the jury strut, lift strut tab and spacer bar.

Place another AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and

complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut for the lower jury

struts. The upper jury struts use a AN3‐5A bolt with a

AN960‐10 washer on the head of the bolt. Place the bolt

through the jury strut & through the wing attachment

point, place two AN960‐10 washers on the end of the bolt

and complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut.

Figure #464

Figure #465

Figure #466

Figure #467

PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs

Hardware List by group –Page #166

Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.

Amount Part Number Description

TOP & BOTTOM STRINGERS 24 AN526C 440‐16 1” Truss‐head screws

24 Ms21044N04 Locknuts

SIDE STRINGERS 15 AN526C 440‐8 1/2” Truss‐head screws

15 Ms21044N04 Locknuts

REAR TRIM INDICATOR PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt

1 AN3‐10 Washer

1 AN310‐3 Castle nut

1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin

2 AN526C 1032‐14 Truss‐head screws

2 MS21044N3 Locknuts

TRIM INDICATOR CABLE BRACKET 1 AN3‐7 Bolt

2 AN960‐10 Washers



JACK SCREW SUB‐ASSEMBLY 1 MS15003‐6 90 degree zerk fitting (grease nipple)

2 AN5‐7 Bolts


2 AB960‐516L Washers

2 MS24665‐136 Cotter pins

JACK SCREW 3 AN960‐616 Washer

1 An960‐616L Washer

1 AN310‐6 Castel nut


1” TRIM CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts


2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts


FRONT IDLER PULLEY BRACKET 1 AN3‐5A Bolt

1 AN3‐5 Bolt

4 AN960‐3 Washers

1 AN365‐1032 Locknut

1 AN3103‐3 Castel nut


REAR TRIM INDICATOR CABLE 1 AN3‐6 Bolt

1 AN960‐10L Washer

1 AN960‐10 Washer



TRIM INDICATOR POST INSTALL 2 CCP‐32 Rivets

1 AN366F‐1032A Anchor Nut

1 Unknown Part # Indicator Post





BALANCE CABLE PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt

1 AN3‐10 Washer

1 AN3‐10L Washer




RUDDER TEMPORARY INSTALL 2 MS20392‐3C53 Clevis pins

VERTICAL FIN INSTALL 1 AN3‐12A Bolt

1 AN3‐12 Bolt 3 AN960‐10 Washers



VERTICAL FIN SADDLE 1 CCP‐44 Rivets

1 AN526C 440‐8 Screw

1 MS21044N04 Locknut

FLOOR BOARDS –REAR BAGGAGE 18 18 x 13 x 1” Machine screws

18 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts

TORQUE TUB STOPS 2 AN3‐12A Bolts

2 1/4” Nuts

FLOOR BOARDS—2ND FRONT 4 10‐32 x1” Screws


4 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts

2 AN970‐3 Penny washers

RUDDER PEDALS 4 D346000 Return Springs

16 AN3‐7A Bolts


16 AN365‐1032A Locknuts

FLAP PULLEYS 5 AN5‐16A Bolts

5 AN970‐5 Large Penny Washers



REAR ELEVATOR BRACKETS 2 AN3‐5A Bolts




REAR ELEVATOR PULLEYS 2 AN3‐12 Bolts




FRONT ELEVATOR PULLEY 1 AN5‐10 Bolt








TORQUE TUBE 1” Pulley 1 AN3‐7 Bolt




TORQUE TUBE SADDLES 4 AN4‐14A Bolts



TORQUE TUBE CONTROL STICK 2 AN4‐23 Bolts




TORQUE TUBE CONNECTION TUBE 2 AN24‐14 Clevis pins

2 AN960‐416L Washers

2 AN320‐4 Shear nuts


RUDDER CABLE TO PEDALS 4 AN3‐5 Bolts




REAR RUDDER CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐10 Bolts




LOWER AILERON PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts




FRONT BRAKE PEDALS 8 AN3‐15A Bolts



BRAKE CONNECTING RODS 4 AN3‐7 Bolts

4 AN970‐3 Penny washers

4 AN960‐3 Washers



HEEL BRAKES 8 AN3‐10 Bolts

8 AN970‐3 Washers


4 AN822‐4D 90° Elbow flared and pipe threaded

BRAKE RESERVOIR INSTALLATION 1 A‐315 Reservoir (firewall mounted style)

2 NAS1801‐3‐8 Bolts

2 CCP‐44 Rivets

1 AN825‐4D Fuel Tee flared & pipe threaded on side





GEAR LEG BRAKE LINES 8ft 03‐39300 1/4” Aluminum tubing

4 MS21919‐WDG4 Adel clamps 4 AN526C 1032‐8 S/S Machine Screws


4 AN818‐4 Nuts

4 AN819‐4D Sleeves

2 AN815‐4D Unions

2 AN822‐4 Elbows

FUEL VALVE MODIFICATION 1 6749 Weather head fuel shut‐off valve

FUEL SYSTEM 50ft 03‐40600 3/8” Aluminum tubing

4 AN825‐6D Tee

1 AN914‐2D Elbow

1 AN822‐6D Elbow

10 AN819‐6D Sleeves

10 AN818‐6D Nuts

1 AN929‐6D Cap

2 AN816‐6D Nipple

6 AN912‐2D Bushing 3/8” to 1/4” pipe thread reducer

2 AN910‐2D Pipe threaded coupling

2 CAV‐160 1/4 NPT SAF‐AIR Drain valve

6 04‐00049 3/8” T Series Cap plugs (unthreaded)

2 AN924‐6D 3/8” Flared tube bulkhead nuts

8 MS21919‐WDG6 3/8” Adel clamps

6 AN526C‐1032‐10 Stainless steel machine screws 8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts

1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties

BATTERY CABLES & GROUND WIRE 1 11‐02233 12 Volt battery

1 111‐226 Master relay

30 ft 11‐14502 #2 AWG battery cable

10 ft 11‐14510 #10 AWG battery cable

100 ft 11‐14514 #14 AWG Wire for solenoids & Instrument Panel

4 MS21919‐DG6 3/8” Adel clamps

2 AN526C 1032‐8 1032 x 1/2” Machine screws

2 K1000‐3 10‐32 Anchor nuts

1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties

2 MS25226‐8‐4 Buss bars

WING WIRING HARNESS ? ft 11‐14516 16 Gauge wire (navigation lights)

? ft 11‐14514 14 Gauge wire (Landing light &Aux fuel pump)

25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws

WING AUXILIARY FUEL PUMP 2 AN816‐6D Nipple

8 AN818‐6D Nut

8 AN819‐6D Sleeve

2 AN821‐6D Elbow

PITOT STATIC LINE 10 ft 03‐40400 1/4” Aluminum Tubing

25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws





LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY 4 AN6‐26 Bolts for Conventional steps

4 AN6‐25 Bolts for Non‐Conventional steps




LANDING GEAR –SIDE STEP 1 AN3‐5 Bolt




LANDING GEAR—CABANE V 2 AN5‐17A Bolts




SHOCK STRUTS—UPPER 2 AN6‐17 Bolts




SHOCK STRUTS—LOWER 2 AN6‐22 Bolts




TAIL WHEEL 1 AN7‐21A Bolt

1 AN6‐26A Bolt

1 AN5‐17A Bolt

1 AN960‐716 Washer



1 AN365‐720A Locknut



STABILIZER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts

2 AN3‐14A Bolts



TAIL BRACE WIRES 3 AN4‐15A Bolts

2 AN3‐5A Bolts

2 U40131‐00 Bent Washers ‐ Univair P/N


4 U82732‐072 Bushings ‐ Univair P/N






ELEVATORS 1 AN3‐7A Bolt

1 AN3‐7 Bolt

1 AN6‐7A Bolt

2 AN23‐11 Clevis bolts

4 AN394‐55 Clevis pins









RUDDER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts

2 AN42B‐7A Bolts

2 AN23‐9 Clevis bolts

2 AN394‐55 Clevis pins







1 06‐15900 Rudder Arm with 3/4” post

1 2151 Tension spring kit

SKYLIGHT & SIDE GLASS 1.5 sheet 03‐504‐10 4 x 8 Clear lexan

1 sheet 03‐504‐08 4 x 4 Clear lexan

MAIN WHEELS & BRAKES 8 AN5‐6A Bolts





backcountry super cubs pa 18 builder’s manual index rev 1 … · · 2017-03-26backcountry super...

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