Backpacking Equipment Basics

H. C. Davis

October 2007

Backpacking Equipment Basics

Table of Contents

Clothing……………..………………………………………………………………….1

Base Layer………..……………………………………………………………1 Mid Layer……………….………………………………………………………2 Rainwear……………………………………………………….……………….3 Outer Layer…………………………………………………….……………….3 Headgear………………………………….…………………….………………4 Boots……………………………………………………………….……………4

Backpacks………………………………………………………………….……………7

External…………………………………………………………………………..7 Internal…………………………………………………………………………...8 Loading………………………………………………………………………….10 Types……………………………………………………………………………12

Tents…………………………………………………………………………………….14

Brands…………………………………………………………………………..15

Sleep Systems…………………………………………………………………………19

Bag Liners………………………………………………………………………22 Pads……………………………………………………………………………..22

Headlamps……………………………………………………………………………..24

Trekking Poles…………………………………………………………………………26

Kitchens……………..…………………………………………………………………27

Stoves…………………………………………………………………………..27 Brands…………………………………………………………………………..28

Water Filters and Purifiers…………………………………………………………….30

Filters…………………………………………………………………………....31 Purifiers…………………………………………………………………………32

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Clothing Different materials:

1. Synthetic Blends a. Polyester b. Nylon

2. Natural Blends a. Wool (Merino) (Soft) b. Ragwool (Scratchy) c. Capilene (Similar to Silk) d. Soybean

All of the above blends wick moisture (Hydrophobic) - The name arises from the combination of water from the Greek hydro- and for fear phobos, which describes the apparent repulsion between water and hydrocarbons. Cotton is an organic blend, but does not wick moisture (Hydrophilic) – The name arises from the Greek (hydros) "water" and φιλια (philia) "friendship," and refers to a physical property of a molecule that can transiently bond with water (H2O) through hydrogen bonding. Cotton will maintain water – the fabric grows course and gets harder. It soon starts to abrade the skin. Organic Cotton is still Cotton; it does not have chemicals added to it. Research performed by Gore-Tex revealed that whenever something becomes saturated with moisture, that material will transfer heat and cold 23 times faster. That means that you will get hotter or colder 23 times faster wearing saturated clothing. Remember, cotton is bad for backpacking! Base Layer In backpacking, you need to wear a base layer that will wick away the moisture from your body. Polyester wicks moisture very fast – you will stay dry, but the evaporation process may be too fast; that may hurt the body because it can’t regulate temperature. Wool, on the other hand, has lanolin in it (which is oil); lanolin slows down the evaporation process, allowing the body to regulate temperature more evenly. Merino wool baselayer

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If you are constantly on the stop and go (like most hikes), wool is a better regulator. If you are constantly on the move and are sweating profusely (like running), then polyester should be worn. For long runs or walks, polyester is good; for skiing, wool is best (a lot of stop and go). All polyesters are not created equal – polyester is basically plastic combined with oil and melted down into strands. Those strands are then woven. Cheaper polyester is woven differently, usually a coarser weave (This could have an affect on its wicking properties, and the comfort to the wearer). Polyester is here, and is great – it is even in underwear, which works the same way in wicking moisture (and preventing chaffing). Bad things about polyester:

• It picks like crazy – this is all in appearance though, it does not affect the wicking properties

• It is made with oil, and a lot of it – it is not environmentally friendly – Patagonia is taking old plastic bottles, melting them down and making new polyester – their goal is by 2011, have 100% recycled polyester.

• It is made with oil, so it has a negative charge to it. This makes the fabric static prone, and the negative charge will also retain odors.

Wool is not processed with oils, so there is no negative charge – it will not absorb odors either. Polyester has been used in a lot of clothing for about 7 years – it has been very popular for about the last 5 years - before, the popular item was polypropylene – that fabric had more neoprene in it, made it rubbery. If you are as old as I am, you remember polyester leisure suits – its back, but not in a leisure suit. Bottom line – for hiking, you want 100% NOT cotton. Mid Layers Mid layers are thicker. The strands are cut thicker; the weave is bigger, making the fabric more insulating. Mid layers are usually soft shells, which will keep you dry and it breathes well. If you waterproof it, you have created a hard shell, and it will not breathe.

Mountain Hardwear Softshell

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Rainwear – there are 2 major concepts – Rain Shells and Snow Shells. Both have either waterproofing or nylon or both. Nylon is impregnated with silicone for repellency. If the nylon jacket you have turns color when wet (has silicone sheen), the repellency is wearing out. It will let the water in, but not out. If you are wearing polyester, then it is wicking away moisture from your body, but can’t push it out of the jacket. Gore-Tex – before it is weaved, it is sprayed with a polyurethane coating. Nylon has 1 million pores per square centimeter. Gore-Tex has 3 million pores per square centimeter. Waterproofing in nylon will last 3 – 5 years and start to break down and lose its repellency. Gore-Tex will last about 10 years, but is much more expensive. Both these times could be less if you store the garments in hot places (like your car trunk) Gore-Tex is made with Teflon – they stretch it out, make it into threads, spray with polyurethane and then weave it. It is very good at repelling water – it is used in fire suits, hazmat gear, etc. If it goes bad, it will let in moisture and keep it like a rain forest inside the jacket. North Face has rain gear that is called HyVent – is a better quality of nylon weave.

The North Face HyVent Rainjacket

Good nylon raingear is about $100 – Gore-Tex is $200 plus. Outer Layers

Heavyweight coats, ski jackets. Most made with nylon that is insulated or Gore-Tex.

The North Face Ski Jacket

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Headgear From October and beyond – take a wool cap with you. Polyester doesn’t work as well when it is wet – plus it wicks too fast most times. Mountain Hardwear Wool Cap

In summer, a hat is necessary to keep the sun off of you (especially if you have as little hair as I do) Outdoor Research Sombrero

Boots Most important thing to remember about boots: You need the correct fit or you will be miserable! You must make sure the heel is not lifting, and there is no movement of the foot from side to side – both will cause blisters (Use moleskin if you get hotspots or blisters) If the boots are too tight, you will be miserable (Most people will confess to anything with tight shoes!) Lightweight boots will not last as long, but kids will grow out of them anyway, so go with lightweight for kids. Merrell Chameleon Merrell Kids Chameleon

For grownups, invest in a better boot.

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Middleweight boots (Vasque Breeze) has a vibram sole, which lasts longer and is resistant to chemicals. It will adhere to rocks and snow, which is good, you don’t slip as much. Asolo has a proprietary sole as well, which is also good.

Vasque Breeze Middleweight Boot

Remember, the stiffer the rubber, the less you will feel each and every rock you step on. And at the end of the day, that makes a big difference. If you take the boot and can bend the arch easily, it is too soft. Heavyweight boots are extremely rigid, but they last a long time and are usually very heavy. Asolo

Heavyweight Boot

To fit, you need even compression on the front of the foot. You place your foot in the boot, push to the back, and then evenly apply pressure through the shoelaces. That is why proper fit is very important. Some of the heavyweight boots have pulleys on the eyelets to apply the even pressure. Socks You need good socks or your boots will be miserable, no matter what the cost. For hiking, you need a polyester blend or SmartWool. Polyester will wick moisture away faster. SmartWool is 76% wool, 22% nylon and 2% elastic – it is very comfortable.

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Liner socks – it is like Theology – you either believe in them or not. In the past, when all you had was ragwool socks, you needed them to keep from itching to death. Smartwool has taken over for liners (it has elastic, nylon to wick away moisture). It will wick moisture out to Gore-Tex in boots, which will push moisture out. Not many use liners any more. (Liners also add weight). Polyester socks have better wicking properties, but they stink to high heaven. Wool is slower wicking, but they don’t stink. SmartWool comes with medium and heavy cushion, or a summer blend – all affect the thermal rating of the sock. Make sure you fit the boot to whatever sock you will wear – there are very tight tolerances now. Gators – (Leggings) – are used by some people; they will keep moisture and rocks from dropping in your boots. If you want to buy them, make sure you get the Gore-Tex kind; otherwise, it will just let the moisture in and your feet will be wet.

Outdoor Research Gators

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Backpacks Two types of backpacks:

1. Internal Frame 2. External Frame

There are strong beliefs either way for backpacks – there are ones that swear by them both. External External Frame packs, according to BRMS, are selling fewer and fewer each year. External Frame backpacks have the metal skeleton outside, which is nice for younger scouts. You can adjust the external frame packs somewhat, either by height or also by the width of the strap placement on the frame. In this way, you can adjust the pack as the scout grows, making the good external frame pack last throughout the scouts growing years.

Kelty Yukon 2900 cubic inches 4 lbs. 8 oz.

The back bind on an external frame pack is usually mesh, which gives you much greater ventilation to the back area. When you are backpacking, 30% of your energy is spent cooling your core – if your backpack is hot, you are miserable. There are about 100 sweat glands in your forearms; 200 sweat glands in your feet; and 75 – 80 sweat glands in your back. In an emergency, you can take the pack off of the frame and tie other things to the frame.

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Internal In an internal frame backpack, the set of steins that are metal or polyurethane are lined internally on the pack. Newer systems will flex and bend to your configurations, making them a little more comfortable. Osprey models even have an oven to heat the waist strap so you can then put it on and mold it to your configuration. Internal frame packs tend to be less accommodating to size – if you are still growing, you will grow out of the pack in about 1 year. If you are an adult, you will need to dial in your size – unless someone is the same size, it is not a good idea to share packs. There are many different sizes of packs – they range from about 1500 cubic inches (day hike size) to 5500 cubic inches (multi-night hike). Some packs advertise liter size – conversion is 1 liter times 60 = cubic inches. Therefore, a 10 liter pack is 600 cubic inches. Most folks will buy a pack size that accommodates them for the specific trip they are taking. For scouts, most of the hikes are for 2 nights, so you don’t need a super-sized one. Better packs are custom fitted to your torso. Blue Ridge Mountain Sports has gauges for torso size (around the hips and height of pack) Measurement starts by taking your IIliac Crest (tip of hip bone) measure from the top – the hip belt should be in the middle of the crest, then measure up to the C7 vertebrae. The C7 is the bump in the back between your shoulders. The pack size should be matched to the size of your torso. C7 vertebrae

It is very important to get the hip belt right on the back pack – the hips should carry approximately 95% of the pack weight. If not, you will get tired very fast.

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If your shoulder straps have weight bearing down on them, then you will be compressing your vertebrae in your spine. The Osprey packs have load lifter straps to take the pressure off of the pack. Also, if you overweight the pack, the hip belt will crunch up and the weight will start to carry on the shoulders as well. To put on pack: Take the pack, put it on and let it hang from the shoulder straps. Lean forward and cinch up the shoulder straps to pull pack up and over the Eliac Crest, then catch the hip belt and cinch it up. The cross strap for the shoulder straps is only for keeping the shoulder straps in place – if you cinch them up too much, you will restrict your upward body movement. Newer straps are formed around for a woman; older straps that were straight tend to bind up in the breast area. Now a lot of the straps are made that way regardless. These straps come over the top and compress from the front, instead of pulling from the side of the breasts. Hip belts are now made especially for women as well – the belt comes up at the end to accommodate a woman’s hips. Companies are going away from big, heavily padded hip belts to more efficient padding. Osprey has a bioform, in which they put the belt in an oven for 10 minutes, and then you put the belt on for 10 minutes so it can form to your hips. This takes about 30 miles of break-in off the trail.

Osprey Custom Fit Oven

You should carry no more than 30-33% of your body weight in your backpack. This means that a 100 pound scout should carry no more than 30-33 pounds total. If you are carrying 65 pounds in a backpack, you should be in Antarctica! Adults should realistically carry no more than 50 pounds total. The larger the pack, the stronger the suspension system; of course, the larger the pack, the higher the weight as well.

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Loading a bag: A typical bag has a lid, and has a tubular shell that will have a shelf under it. Under the shelf is where you normally should store your sleeping bag. Heavier, bulkier items should be stored closer to your back – this gives better weight distribution, along with proper center of gravity. Center of gravity for men is below the sternum; for women, it is at the hips. As you load the pack up to your shoulder, you should not have much more than 1 pound above that point. It is much more efficient if you have everything inside your pack compressed together (not loose) so it will not move around. If loose, this will upset the center of gravity as well. In the lid, you should have no heavy, dense items – this should be for very lightweight items. Basically, the lid keeps the top of the pack from getting debris inside.

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Items to put in the lid:

• Pack Cover – the best types are siliconized cordura nylon. This is very light, but also very expensive. When it rains, you want the pack covered, because they are not waterproof. If you leave your pack outside at night during a hike, you should cover it to keep the dew off the pack. Price: $19 for cheaper cover, $35 for lightweight. Trash bags work too, in a pinch.

• Snacks for quick retrieval – lightweight stuff; trail mix, energy bars, etc.

• First Aid kit

• Gloves

• Stocking cap

Other items: Most packs have a hydration sleeve, which will hold ½ to 3 liters. The tube from the sleeve slides out of the side of the pack.

• Disadvantage: heavier weight, water will get hot up next to your body eventually, cannot use to pour water in containers for cooking easily.

• Advantage: Ease of use, don’t have to worry about stopping and retrieving bottles for a drink.

Many newer style packs have an open core frame style back bind – this has been the case for external packs, but is new to internal. The open core design keeps air circulating to cool your back. Lightweight packs should carry no more than 30 pounds; heavier packs, up to 60 pounds plus. Most packs are made of ripstop cordura nylon.

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Types of Packs: Day Pack Osprey Daypack 1600 cubic inches

2 lbs. 2 oz.

Lightweight Weekend Golite Pinnacle 4500 cubic inches

1 lb. 9 oz.

Weekend Osprey Aether 70 4400 cubic inches 4 lbs. 12 oz.

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Backcountry

Kelty Soar 5200 cubic inches

4 lbs. Deluxe – Heavyweight - Mountaineering Osprey Crescent 110 6900 cubic inches 7 lbs. 8 oz.

Costs for packs: Weekend (4-5 day) - $150 - $300 External Frame - $100 - $160 Weekend lightweight - $100 - $200 Day packs - $75 - $100 Backcountry - $200 - $400 Deluxe – Heavyweight - $200 - $400

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Tents

There are many different styles and brands of tents – choices depend on size, features and weight. For backpacking, the best choice is a lightweight, free standing tent. Single wall tents are lightest, but they will condense water excessively, leaving the inside of the tent wet. In this part of the country, there is a lot of condensation due to the humidity. For dryness, consider a tent with double wall (tent and rainfly) construction. Cheaper tents will have larger poles, heavier construction and will have seams that may not be taped. This makes the tent heavier and bulkier to carry; untaped seams may lead to leaks in wet weather. When storing tents, do not put them away wet! They should be put up to dry as soon as possible to prevent mold and rot. Tents should never be stored in the attic, or any other area that is exposed to intense heat; this will destroy the fabric as well as affect water repellency. They should be stored in a climate controlled, relatively dry area. Tent poles should be stored together if possible – if they are laid out, the pole life is increased. (This is for poles that have elastic bands that hold them together. If they are kept folded for extended periods, then they have a tendency to stretch the bands and not hold secure when set up). There are two methods of water repellency for tents: Polyurethane Nylon with Durable Water Repellant (DWR) sprayed on the surface. Most tents are waterproofed in this manner – it is cheaper and somewhat durable, but water repellant will need to be reapplied periodically. With heavy use, the water repellant will need to be applied every 1 – 2 years. Silicon Impregnated Nylon – this method uses a layer of silicon on the top, and a layer of polyurethane on the bottom. These two layers are fused together for water repellency. This method makes for a lighter weight with water repellency, plus the water repellant does not need to be reapplied. Disadvantage – tents manufactured in this manner are much more expensive ($250 - $300 instead of $75 - $100). Tent selection should be based on size, weight, and desirable features for the user.

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Brands: Eureka:

Timberline 2 Two person; Weight: 5 lbs., 13 ounces; Suggested Price: $119

Zeus 2 Two person; Weight: 3 lbs, 14 ounces; Suggested Price $159

Solitaire One person; Weight 2 lbs, 9 ounces; Suggested Price: $75

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Mountain Hardwear:

Lightwedge 2 Two person; Weight: 5 lbs, 6 ounces; Suggested Price: $210

Hammerhead 2 Two person; Weight 6 lbs, 8 ounces; Suggested Price: $255 Hammerhead 3 Three person; Weight: 8 lbs; Suggested Price: $295

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Mountain Safety Research (MSR):

Hubba One person; Weight: 3 lbs, 1 ounce; Suggested Price: $239

Hubba Hubba Two person; Weight: 4 lbs, 2 ounces; Suggested Price: $299 Mutha Hubba Three person; Weight: 6 lbs; Suggested Price: $399

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The North Face:

Rock 22

Two person; Weight: 5lbs, 4 ounces; Suggested Price: $179

Tadpole 23 Two person; Weight: 4 lbs, 4 ounces; Suggested Price: $239 Vario 23

Two person; Weight 4 lbs, 3 ounces; Suggested Price: $279

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Sleep Systems

The sleeping bag is a barrier to keep the cold out and your body warmth inside the bag. The more clothes you wear into the bag, the less body heat can escape into the bag to warm you up. Therefore, the colder it is, the less clothes you need to wear. Two Types of Sleeping Bag Filler: Synthetic Down Synthetic is a hollow fill that is comprised of polyester strands that are cut out in the middle. Synthetics will warm just as well as down, but will not last as long or be as light. Once synthetics have been compressed enough, the bag will keep the compression and destroy the thermal properties. Down fill is gleaned from the goose – not the feather itself, but the cluster underneath the feather that provides the warmth. Synthetic bags will last approximately 10 – 12 years, then the polyester will deteriorate – the polyester strands also do not compress as much as down, making for a larger bag. Down bags will last up to 30 years – the oils from the feathers will not break down – down is much lighter and will compress in size much more than polyester. Two Types of Sleeping Bag Styles: Rectangle

Coleman Diamondback Synthetic 40° - 3 lbs. $40

Mummy The North Face Snowshoe 0° - 3 lbs. 7 oz. $189

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If you tend to be claustrophobic, you probably will not be satisfied with a mummy bag. They tend to be more confining. Rectangular bags will take longer to heat up because of the amount of air space that has to be heated. Types of Construction of Bags: Tube Construction – continuous baffles from one side of the bag to another. You can shake the down from one side to the other. In this manner, you can shake the down to the top of the bag to give more loft and thermal protection in the cold. If you shake the down to the bottom in the summer, you give more insulation between you and the ground. Non-Continuous Baffle – These baffles are stitched in sections and cannot be shaken out. All sleeping bags have thermal ratings ranging from 50° to -45°. A typical bag usually is from 20° to 30° down to -10°. All thermal ratings are made with sleeping pads. You must remember that the lower the degree on the bag, the thicker and heavier it will be. Most bags come with a stuff sack and a larger bag for storage. Try to keep the bag as open as possible – ideally, you should hang up the bag to retain the loft. Most bags will have straps that will hook on a clothes hanger to hang up. Do not store in the attic! Heat will deteriorate the bag much quicker. There are no regulated standards on thermal ratings – Be careful and talk to sales staff about what your needs are before purchasing. Most bags have durable water repellency – they will hold off water for a long period of time. The durable water repellency is usually sprayed on before the bag is stitched. If the bag gets wet, the normal dry times are: Synthetic bags – 8 to 9 hours Down bags – 10 to 12 hours

If you sleep out from under a tent, you should get a bivy sack. The bivouac sack, or "bivy" as it's known, is generally designed with the mountaineer in mind, but it's equally suited to other weight- and bulk-conscious outdoor travelers: day hikers who want that extra measure of safety "just in case"; long-distance cyclists; ultra-light hikers; and kayakers short on below-deck cargo space.

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Some other bivy benefits: breathability, easy set-up, and a minuscule footprint that allows it to be pitched just about anywhere there's enough room to lie down. All in all, it's a great substitute for a tent if — and this is a big "if" — you can handle the

somewhat-tight quarters inside a zipped-shut bivy sack. Prices range from $80 to over $300, but the weight is at least half that of a tent.

You can wash sleeping bags – Nikwax makes a down wash and synthetic wash. After the bag is washed, you should spray on either PolarProof or SoftShellProof water repellant. Do not waterproof the inside! You can dry the bags in a non-commercial dryer on very low heat, with a few tennis balls thrown in to help keep the loft. It is a good idea to wash a sleeping bag about once per year with heavy use. Line drying the bag is nice, but will keep the bag wetter than it should be for a longer period of time.

If you apply durable water repellant, you should do so on a wet surface. Don’t dry the bag completely before applying.

Newer bags are welded in the seams instead of stitched, which saves thread weight. Also, the thread area is a place that will lose heat, so this protects the thermal rating as well. (Some jackets are now being made with welded seams).

Some bags baffles are not sewn straight on the outside and inside – this staggers the seams so they will not have a “cold spot.”

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Sizes:

Womens: Regular - 5’4”; Long – 6’0”

Men’s: Regular – 6’0”; Long – 6’6”

Lightweight packs have a hard time fitting large sleeping bags. If you want to carry a lightweight pack, you should look for lighter weight sleeping bags as well.

Bag Liners

Some people love bag liners – if you slip in the bag liner, it will transfer heat through it so you can still heat up the bag. If it is really cold, get in the bag, heat it up, then slide in the liner.

The best way to heat up a sleeping bag is to get in right after you eat a meal. Your body is trying to digest your food, and will give off more heat.

If you sweat inside the bag, then get cold, you will get cold much faster than if you were dry (23 times faster).

Compression Sacks – They are lightweight, and can take a bag and make it much smaller. Synthetic bags can be compressed to about half their size, down bags even smaller. The sack is made up of silicon impregnated nylon, which will shed water very fast.

Outdoor Research Compression Sack $25 - $32

Pads Sleeping pads not only stop rough rocks, but they also help the bag thermally. There are several types of pads, ranging in size from ¾ to full size. In colder weather, you should go for the longer pad. The ¾ pad will not be under the sleeping bag from the bottom of your legs. While this is not necessary in warmer weather, the barrier between the bag and the ground is more important when the weather is cold. Two Types: Closed Cell Foam – Usually have diamond shaped cells filled with foam to let air in. Most cell foam is made from sanitary napkins. Some of the foam pads can also be blown up

Thermalite Prolite 4 $95 - $110

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Blow Up – These are similar to beach floats. Some of these pads (Exped Mats) are good for sleeping bags, the pool and sledding. All pads that can be blown up can and will pop – you must be careful around sharp rocks. Brands: Thermarest ProLite 3 – Cost: $75 - $80 Thermarest ProLite 4 – Cost $95 - $110 – is about ½” thicker than the ProLite 3. The thicker the pad, the more comfortable, but not as lightweight. The ProLite 3 and ProLite 4 also come in a women’s style – these are slightly wider in the hip area. They are also warmer. Thermarest Z-Lite Closed cell foam – Cost $30 - $35 -does not blow up, but folds

Thermarest Z-Lite

Some pads have synthetic down in them as well. This provides more insulation, but adds about 6 ounces to the weight of the pad. These pads are not recommended to be blown up by mouth, because of the moisture that will cause a buildup of bacteria. These pads have a pump that should be used. Brand – Exped – Costs $130 - $140. Standard Blue Foam Pad – The cheapest, but usually has to be tied to the outside of the backpack because of its size – Costs: Approximately $20.

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Headlamps Headlamps will allow you the freedom to do other chores without having to hold onto a flashlight. If you can imagine, setting up your tent with one hand would be extremely hard to do. Also, when nature calls in the middle of the night, it’s nice to have both hands free. A headlamp is almost a necessity now for backpacking and camping. Two types of lights:

1. LED – More of a base light – the LED’s create more of a lantern style of light.

2. Halogen – creates more of a directed light. You can get about a 100’ beam from a halogen light, which is fully adjustable. However, they burn batteries pretty quickly.

Halogen lights are on the way out in sales – they produce more light, but are heavier and bulkier, which you try to eliminate as much as possible backpacking. Most of the newer style lights are waterproof. Halogens use much more energy – they will get approximately 12 hours battery life, while LED’s get 100+ hours. Some of the new LED’s have an emergency strobe for rescue. Most of the lights come with one strap that goes around the head. Very active folks may rather have the two strap models, where one strap goes around the head, and one goes over the top. This keeps the light from slipping down around your ears. Some major brands that BRMS sells: Petzl – Tikka, Tikka XP, E light, Myolight Black Diamond – Icon (has a pretty strong beam for an LED – is a magnified LED) Prices range from $19.95 to $60-$70.

Petzl Tikka 78 grams 3 “AAA” Batteries Petzl Tikka XP 95 grams 3 “AAA Batteries

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Petzl E light 27 grams 2 CR2032 lithium watch batteries

Petzl Myolite 175 grams 3 “AA” Batteries

Black Diamond Icon 188 grams 3 “AA” Batteries

The Petzl Tikka XP burns a little brighter than the Tikka – plus it has a green light on the side that indicates a good battery; yellow for reduced strength, then red when the batteries need replacement. Once the battery is giving out, it will blink 3 times.

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Trekking Poles Many types are available – all serve a purpose. Make sure you have the proper walk with the poles; don’t keep hands in front of you, that is not a normal walk. Use the poles by your side to push off each step. It will speed up your walk and help your knees. Poles help motivate you forward – gives you an arm workout as well Poles give you 4 points of contact with the ground instead of 2. It can also serve as a weapon if needed. You also use poles to post going downhill to help with your balance. Proper use of the strap – if you fall with the pole around your thumb, the first thing to hit is the first metacarpal. Proper use of the straps takes pressure off your hands when walking as well. You need poles that telescope, so you can break it down to your size. That is why ski poles will not work for hiking. Some poles have shock absorbers in them to help cushion the impact. Some have twist tightening to lock the size down, others have levers. Costs range from about $15 for Swissgear at WalMart to $150 - $200 for Leki.

Swissgear Leki

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Kitchens

Stoves: Before you purchase a stove, you should ask yourself - what is your use of the stove and for what purpose are you planning? Are you going to be cooking for just one person, or a group? After you answer these questions, then you should pick out the type of stove for use. Three Types of Stoves: Compressed Gas – Uses a portable compressed gas tank containing isobutene that attaches to the stove. Advantages – ease of use, very simple, tanks are readily available. Disadvantages – Not refillable; Isobutene constricts in the cold. When the weather is extremely cold, the stove will be very hard to light. (If tank constricts, you can place the tank in your sleeping bag at night to keep it warm enough to light). There are “4 Season” fuel tanks available at a higher cost. These tanks contain a mixture of isobutene, butane and propane. They will light in the cold much easier. Liquid Gas – Tank either contains 97 octane fuel or alcohol. Some tanks are “international stove” types, and have a larger evaporation tube for the fuel. This allows it to burn 87 octane fuel. Advantages – Cheaper, refillable, gas is readily available at service stations. Disadvantages – Gasoline spills; you must “prime” most stoves – you light the stove; after it gets hot, you then light the main burner. Alcohol Stoves - While alcohol stoves may be unfamiliar to Americans, they have some significant strengths. Alcohol burns well in an unpressurized burner, so alcohol stoves are often stone-simple--sometimes little more than a cup to hold fuel. This lack of complexity means that there is virtually nothing that can go wrong. Alcohol stoves don't flare up as often as liquid gas stoves. Unpressurized alcohol stoves are quiet and don't intrude on the wilderness experience the way pressurized stoves can. Fuel is easy to find – the most popular is the automotive fuel line deicer Heet. Disadvantages - The biggest downside to unpressurized alcohol stoves is that they only produce about half the heat output of a compressed or liquid gas stove. This means cooking times are slower and you need to carry more fuel. Fuel Tanks for compressed gas stoves will last approximately 1 to 1 ½ hours with normal use (Depends a lot on the weather and temperature) Fuel canisters for compressed gas stoves are made of aluminum. After all of the fuel is spent, you can take a can opener and punch 3 – 4 holes in it and recycle the tank. They cannot be refilled. Canisters weigh approximately 10 ounces, so you should add this to the weight of the stove when considering purchases.

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Other things to consider with stoves are: Does the stove fold or pack down? Does it have an igniter (piezo)? If not, then you should make sure you carry items to start the stove (matches, lighter, fire starter, etc). Brands of Stoves: Compressed Gas – Pocket Rocket (Mountain Safety Research – MSR) - $39 – (4 ounces) very compact, folds into its own storage container. Disadvantages: Legs are flimsy; You should not use larger pots; No more than 2 cups max; has no piezo.

Micron (Primus) - $54 – lightweight (4 ounces); very small packweight; cools down quickly; more stable than the Pocket Rocket. Disadvantage – no piezo.

Gigapower (Snowpeak) - $49 – lightweight (4.2 ounces); nice solo stove; very sturdy, has a piezo; flame flares out and heats up quicker.

TechnoTrail (Primus) - $35 – (4 ounces) wide flame; heats up quickly. Disadvantage: grates are smooth, allowing pot to slip easily.

JetBoil - $89 – Aluminized can that has a heat coil (fluxring) bonded to the bottom. The pot is good, you can also hang the pot from anything that will hold it and still use it (does not have to be on a solid surface). Holds 2 cups of water; takes 80 – 100 seconds to heat 2 cups to a boil. Everything folds up and stores inside the can (including the gas canister). Has the same gas canister fittings as the Snow Peak brand (interchangeable canisters); has many attachments that can be purchased. Disadvantage: Heavier, (approximately 8 ounces for the stove and cup).

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Reactor (MSR) - $139 – Works on the same principle as the JetBoil (Fluxring). Has a larger radiating surface than the JetBoil. 1 ½ liters of water will boil in 2 ½ minutes. This stove is great for groups of people (3 – 5); it is quite large for solo use. Disadvantages: Size; no piezo.

Liquid Gas – WhisperLite (MSR) - $65 Advantages – Cheaper, refillable, gas is readily available at service stations. Disadvantages – Gasoline spills; you must “prime” most stoves – you light the stove; after it gets hot, you then light the main burner

SimmerLite (MSR) - $95 The same advantages and disadvantages as listed earlier.

Alcohol – MiniTrangia (Trangia) - $29.95 – Lightweight (1 ounce without fuel – 11 ounces with fuel); simple design. Disadvantages: Boils 1 liter of water in 6 ½ minutes; very sensitive to wind.

Spirit (Trangia) - $13.95 – Same advantages and disadvantages for the MiniTrangia

Trangia Fuel Bottles

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Water Filters and Purifiers

Being able to safely drink from a cold mountain stream is an experience that has basically vanished. With the increased use of the wilderness, there is also an increase in the amount of bacteriological contamination of backcountry water supplies. The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports that 90% of the world’s water is contaminated in some way. The major danger in the backcountry from these infections is fluid loss due to diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to hypovolemic shock (decrease in blood volume due to dehydration). Two types of contaminated water: Biologically contaminated – Water that contains microorganisms such as giardia, cryptosporidium, bacteria, or viruses that can lead to infections. How do these microorganisms get in the water? When water becomes tainted by animal or human feces. What impact can they have on you? They can leave you reeling with diarrhea, abdominal cramps, nausea, weight loss and fatigue. Toxic contamination – Water that contains chemical contamination from pesticide runoffs, mine tailings, anthrax, cyanide, etc. Two types of water treatment: Water Filters – A microbiological device that removes bacteria and protozoa from water, but will not get out toxic contamination or viruses. Water Purifiers – A microbiological device that removes bacteria and protozoa, as well as viruses. (Waterborne viruses are less common in North America) The bottom line – If you are very worried about having absolutely safe water, you probably will not find it in the woods; filters and purifiers will definitely minimize the risks involved. If you truly suspect the cleanliness of the water, you may use more than one method of treatment to maximize the effect. Common microorganisms and the size of particles involved: Organism Examples General Size Filter Type Particle Size

Rating Protozoa Giardia,

Cryptosporidium 5 microns or larger

Water Filter

1.0 – 4.0 microns

Bacteria Cholera, E. coli, Salmonella

0.2 – 0.5 microns

Microfilter 0.2 – 1.0 microns

Viruses Hepatitis A, rotavirus, Norwalk virus

0.004 microns

Water Purifier

To 0.004 microns

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When comparing water filters and purifiers, look for an absolute – not nominal – pore size of .2 microns. A water treatment system (with filters and purifiers) can have numerous parts, some of which need to be maintained on a regular basis. Water Filters: There are a number of devices that filter out microorganisms. A water filter pumps water through a microscopic filter that is rated for the size of the organism. The standard size rating is the micron (the period at the end of this sentence is about 600 microns); you can see from the chart on the previous page that the micron sizes for different contaminants are very small. Brands:

MSR Sweetwater .2 micron filter – Suggested Cost: $65

MSR MiniWorks

.2 micron filter – Suggested Cost:: $85

Katadyn Pocket Filter .2 micron filter – Suggested Cost: $220

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Katadyn Mini filter .2 micron filter – Suggested Cost: $89

Water Purifiers:

Water purifiers usually work by creating a mixed dose of oxidants, which is then added to untreated water. Some also filter water, and then treat it to kill viruses. Brands:

MSR Miox Originally made for the military; a capful of water is taken with salt added; once the unit is cut on, the device ionizes the water and salt, making a solution to put in your remaining water to be treated. This system kills everything in the water – it even neutralizes anthrax and cyanide (It will even clean your hot tub!) Suggested Cost: $139

Katadyn Exstream Purifier Two stage filter; water is then disinfected with iodinized resin (iodine) Suggested Cost: $45

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Another water treatment method is the use of the SteriPen. This device works with ultraviolet light to neutralize bacteria. It does not kill the bacteria, only neuters it so it cannot grow and create new bacteria.

SteriPen Water Purifier with prefilter Suggested Cost: $99

Some filters (such as the Sweetwater) also have iodine to add to the filtered water to help purify it. Iodine generally will leave a harsh taste in the water – to minimize the bad taste, adding vitamin C (about 50 milligrams) completely eliminates any taste or color of iodine. You must wait until the iodine has purified the water before adding. The vitamin C in drink mixes like Tang has the same effect. Chlorine treatments can be used for people who are allergic or are restricted on iodine use (people with thyroid problems or on lithium, women over 50, pregnant women) can use chlorine to purify water instead of iodine. For a 2 liter bottle of water, 8 drops of chlorine bleach (no added soap or fragrances) can be added and shaken in the bottle. It is then recommended that the water stand for approximately 30 minutes before drinking. There will be a chlorine smell to the water, along with the taste, but it is pure enough to drink. Heat kills microorganisms, and virtually all microorganisms are readily killed at temperatures well below the boiling point. The process of heating water to a boil makes it hot enough long enough to disinfect it. From 40° to 120°, bacteria grow and create new bacteria – 90° to 110° is perfect for bacteria. The boiling point of water (212°) is ample enough temperature to destroy bacteria.