bagbani gardening hb

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Capt. Retd.) S K Bhandari 2010 BAGBANI GARDENING HAND BOOK A Gardening Hand Book for the Novice. A gardeners’ companion. Reading it will make you a master gardener. Agro Synergy & Floriculture Consortium 16, Chakrata Road, Dehra Dun 248001 Mobile +91 9358525643 Email [email protected]

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A handbook on gardening. Every thing on gardening in one place.

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Page 1: Bagbani gardening hb

C

apt.

Ret

d.)

S K

Bh

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20

10

BA

GB

AN

I G

AR

DE

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G H

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A Gardening Hand Book for the Novice. A gardeners’ companion. Reading it will make you a

master gardener.

Agro Synergy & Floriculture Consortium 16, Chakrata Road, Dehra Dun 248001

Mobile +91 9358525643 Email [email protected]

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Dedicated

To

My respected mother

Shrimati Sushila Bhandari

(7.10.1910-8.11.2010)

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BAGBANI GARDENING HAND BOOK

INDEX

Subject Page

Introduction to gardening 3

A Healthy Plant’s Requirements Water Requirement 4

How to Judge If A Plant Needs Water 4

Humidity 4

Food and Air 5

Liquid Fertilisers 5,6

What to Grow - Herbs 6,7

-Palms 8,9

-Dracaens ,Cordyline & Yucca 9,10

-Ferns 10

-Ficus 11

-Arums 11

-Flowers 12

-SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS 12,13,14, 15

-SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS 16

-FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS) 17

-FLOWERING BULBS – Summer and Rain season 18,19

-Plant Care 19,20

-Grooming And Care 20

-Cleaning Leaves 20

-Looking After Flowers 20

-Trimming Steams and Shoots 21

-Hoeing 21

-Weeding 21

-Stopping 21

-Dead heading 21

-Top dressing 21,22

-Nutrient needs of flowers 22

-PROPAGATION 22

-Sowing seeds 23

-Sowing Seeds - Procedure 23

-Repotting of Seedlings 24

-Dividing Plants 24

-Dividing Procedure 24

-Layering 25

-Tip layering 25

-Air layering 25

-Runners 25

-Stem-Tip Cutting 26

-Indoor Hanging Baskets 27

-Planting an Indoor Hanging Basket 27

-Foliage plants for indoor hanging-baskets 27

-Grouping Plants in Hanging-Baskets 28

- Indoor Plants 28,29,30,31

-Vegetables 33,34

-Companion Plants 35,36,37,38

-Lawns 39,40,41

-Soil pH Ranges 42

-Garden Layouts 45 - 55

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BAGBANI HAND BOOK OF GARDENING

Capt. (Retd.) Satish Kumar Bhandari

09358525643 mailto:[email protected]

Introduction

The joy of growing something be it a flower plant, a vegetable, a fruit tree, a shrub, or a

climber can be experienced only by a gardener. If we see, around us, there thousands of

people growing plants and every day many more join the lucky group of gardeners. Some of

the advantages of home gardening are, to breath fresh air all day long, refreshing aroma

from the flowers, home grown vegetables etc. Most important is the exercise it provides to

the gardener.

In this Gardening hand book, you will learn about 'Home Gardening’.

Plants which are ideal for the home garden. Both outdoors as well as indoors and how to

take care for their proper growth.

Some of the subjects covered are —

· Plants, their watering and feeding needs.

· Growing your own plants from seeds.

· Growing plants from cuttings, grafting, air layer grafting and leaf rooting methods.

· Flowers and their growing season.

· Common house flowering plants and their growing season.

· Common house vegetable plants and their growing season.

· Plant care.

· Gardening tips.

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A Healthy Plant’s Requirements

Water Requirement

Most plants like to be watered only after their soil dries out. Excess water causes

root rot, which causes the plant to decay, so always be sure to wait until your plant

is thirsty before you water it. Plants absorb water from the soil, through their small,

hair-like root. The water moves into lager roots and from there to the stems and

finally to the leaves. Too little water is the cause of wilting of leaves & flowers which

first droop and later become crisp and brown.

Each plant has its own need for water, some requiring more than others. Large

plants need more water than small ones. Also, plants need less water in winter than

in summer, because in winters the soil remains moist for a longer period. As a result

during winters the plants may need no watering for a number of consecutive days,

whereas in summers, the watering may have to be as frequent as twice a day.

Whenever watering is undertaken, it must be thorough. Frequent inadequate

watering draws surface roots to the top, causes rapid transpiration and exhausts the

plant.

Watering must be done in the early morning or in the evening when the soil around

the pot is not hot. Should watering become necessary during the bright sunshine,

the pot should be removed to shade the soil allowed to cool down, before the plant is

watered. All flowering plant needs generous watering when the buds are forming and

it is in full bloom.

How to Judge If A Plant Needs Water

The experienced gardener know that more houseplants die through being excessively

or insufficiently watered than from any other reason? To judge if a plant in a pot

needs water rub a finger or thumb on the potting soil to assess its moisture content.

Another simple way of understanding the plant's need for water is by observing the

colour of the soil in the pot. When the soil is dry it becomes pale and it crumbles, but

if wet, it is dark in colour. Eventually, most houseplant gardeners use this method to

assess the need of water.

Humidity

Most houseplants are tropical plants and come from places where the humidity (the

amount of moisture in the air) is as high as 70, 80 or even 90 percent. The amount

of moisture in the air influences the health and growth of plants. Deserts cacti in hot

regions have thick outer layers that reduce the amount of moisture they give off.

Most plants however, need a humid atmosphere to prevent their leaves and stem

becoming dry. Spraying them regularly with water from a spray bottle or sprinkling

water on the leaves; or setting them on a tray or a plastic saucer filled with pebbles

and water, will increase the humidity around the plants and helps raise the humidity

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Don't Spray Water

1) When the sun is shining. Water globules act as lenses, intensifying the sun's rays

and burning leaves.

2) During evenings, especially in autumn & winter as wet leaves attract pests and

disease germs.

The plants should be given Mist-spray in the morning, so that the moisture has a

chance to dry before the onset of night.

Grouping of Plants create Humid Atmosphere

By placing plants in groups a humid micro-climate (a small area with high humidity)

can be created around them. Moisture given off from the surfaces of leaves is

trapped. When a plant is displayed on its own, moisture soon evaporate.

Keeping the Atmosphere Humid

Regularly mist-spray smooth-surfaced leaves in summer. However, take care not to

spray water on flowers, as they then soon decay. Place a piece of plastic sheet in

front of the flowers while spraying. A few plants such as philodendrons and the Swiss

Cheese Plant must be mist-sprayed in summer to prevent them from becoming dry

and hard.

Excessive Humidity

1) Soft leaves soon decay, especially if hairy. Moisture becomes trapped around the

hair on the leaves.

2) Leaves that are close to the stems create traps for water.

3) Flower petals, especially when tightly packed together, become covered with a

furry mould.

4) Plants with masses of soft leaves closely packed together become infested with

decay.

Food and Air

The soil of plants must be "well enriched‖, which means that the soil should be rich

enough for the growth of the plant and able to retain the moisture. The soil may be

enriched by adding organic and inorganic manures .Organic manure is manure made

from wastes of plants and animals (decomposed leaves and cow dung). Inorganic

manure is made chemically and is, therefore also known as chemical fertiliser.

The manure is added to the soil in the plants, three to four times in a year. Once

before winters, then before the onset of summers and again before the rainy season.

The soil is loosened a little by digging and the manure is put around the plant on top

of the soil. While digging the soil, take care not to damage the roots.

The day you loosen the soil, do not water the plant. The interval between loosening

and watering of soil helps in the aeration of roots and absorption of water from a

greater depth.

Fresh air should be able to circulate in the rooms where, indoor plants are placed in,

even if it's only through the wire mesh of the windows.

Liquid Fertilisers

A Chemical or Organic Concentrated fertilisers when dissolved in water are called

liquid fertilizers. These are applied to the potting compost at ten to fourteen-day

intervals during summer.

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If the potting compost is dry, first water it. This is because when it is dry there is a

risk of the fertilizer damaging the roots. Also, if it is dry the soil-ball contracts and

leaves a gap around the inside of the pot, through which water and fertiliser will

escape and be wasted.

Thoroughly agitate the water, ensuring that the fertilizer is completely mixed. Apply

this before it gets settled at the bottom of the container.

What To Grow

Herbs

An Herb Garden for your kitchen as this will flavor the dishes cooked by you and

make them palatable. Some of the easiest herbs to grow in your garden are:

Coriander (Hara Dhaniya):

1. Crush 2-3 tsp of coriander seeds (saboot dhaniya) with the foot by placing on a

piece of paper, so as to divide each seed into 2 parts.

2. Dig the soil in a pot to loosen it.

3. Sprinkle seeds. Gently mix them with the fingers with the soil. Some get mixed

and some show on top.

4. Water generously. Cover with a transparent polythene and place in a warm,

lighted place.

5. Now water only when the soil turns dry.

6. The seedlings take about 15 days to come out.

7. Once the seedlings are out, take care to protect them from the birds.

Mint (Poodina):

1. Choose a bunch with thick stems.

2. Loosen the bunch to separate the stems.

3. Discard any yellow leaves.

4. Select 10-12 good stalks. One or two may have a few hairy roots. These will start

growing faster.

5. Loosen soil in a pot by digging it lightly.

6. Dig 2" deep and plant 2 stems together. Similarly plant all of them, planting two

stems together in each hole.

7. Press on the sides of the stems lightly.

8. Water generously. Water every day.

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Sweet Basel

1. Select good black/brown coloured seeds. Rub it in your palms to remove the outer

cover.

2. Dig the soil in a pot to loosen it.

3. Sprinkle seeds. Gently mix them with the fingers with the soil. Some get mixed

and some show on top.

4. Water generously. Cover with a transparent polythene and place in a warm,

lighted place.

5. Now water only when the soil turns dry.

6. The seedlings take about 15 days to come out.

7. Once the seedlings are out, take care to protect them from the birds.

Green Chili (Hari Mirch):

1. Select 4-5 good, big and thick dry red chilies. Take out seeds.

2. Loosen soil by digging.

3. Scatter seeds. Lightly mix the seeds with the soil with your fingers.

4. Water generously.

5. Water only after the soil turns dry.

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Palms

If you grow some Palms in your garden they will not only beautify the garden but

also add a touch of royalty. The palms are remaining ever green throughout the year

and you need not plant them afresh every season. Palms also make wonderful indoor

plants.

The palms can also, be grown as an indoor plant as they not like too much light and

cannot stand direct sunlight. Find a place which has some light, but not too strong

light. It is always better to keep two palm plants for a single indoor location. Keep

one inside your room for a few days and then put it outside, but not in direct

sunlight. Bring the one outside to replace it, altering the plants.

Some of the palm which will charm you and your visitors are given below:

Areca Lutescens Palm

This the most common palm grown in the garden. The Areca palm is also called the

golden feather palm. Its botanical name is areca Iutescens.

The leaves of the young plants are rather floppy and irregular, but they become

more sturdy and regular as they grow older. Areca originates from Madagascar,

where it is usually warm and so the golden feather palm is therefore not adapted to

low temperature. Put in a warm place where even the night temperature does not

drop below 15°C (59°F).Areca grows best in a lighted spot out of the midday sun.

Water the plant regularly, but it does not need too much water.

Caryota (FIsh Tail Palm)

The leaves of this palm have triangular leaflets which look like fish tails. It needs as

sunny location within-direct sunlight. It always needs a temperature of 15°C (59°F),

preferably a lot higher and regular watering. Never let the potting soil dry out, but do

not let the plant stand in water either.

Washingtonia Filifera (Desert Fan Palm, Petticoat Plant)

The leaves are folded like a fan. Threads are released from the edges along the

entire length of the leaf forming curls. In summers, water the plant liberally and in

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winter do not let the soil dry out completely. Feed occasionally. This palm tolerates

the cold. It should not be kept in direct sunlight, although some light is essential for

the proper growth.

Kentia Palm (Howeia Forsteriana)

Their long leaves intertwines and from an elegant fan of foliage .It loves a bright

spot but the afternoon should be avoided. It needs plenty of water.

Dracaens ,Cordyline & Yucca

These plants are closely related and all belong to the agave family. All three plants

have a common shape. The rosettes carry on growing upwards as the old leaves

drop off. In this way a long stem develops with a bunch of leaves at the top. It is this

architectural shape, which has made them so popular in modern interiors. Besides,

they are very strong and survive even in un-favourable conditions.

Dracaena Deremensis

This is one of the easiest to grow houseplant. It can be grown in the sun but will also

tolerate shade. The best place for it is full light without too much direct sun. It grows

quickly when it is watered regularly, but it should not be over watered. Older plants

develop a tuft of leaves on the top with bare stems, because the lower leaves keep

turning yellow and dropping off as time passes. The leaves are green as well as the

variegated varieties with pale yellow bands on the green leaves are commonly found.

Cordyline Fruticosa

The bright green leaves have a pinkish red margin and often have cream coloured

margins as well. Whether the plant keeps its colour or not, depends on the location.

If they are put in strong sun, the plants tend to lose their intense colours. To retain

their colours, it is better to put them in a light spot out of the sun. Water sparingly at

short intervals so that the soil remains moist. In winters the soil can be kept a little

drier.

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Yucca Elephantipes

The pointed, spineless leaves tolerate the full sun and also stay healthy for a long

time with less light. It requires less water, so water moderately during summers and

scantily in withers. Outside in the fresh air, it grows quite quickly than when placed

inside a room.

Ferns

Ferns grow better in a slightly cooler atmosphere because the relative humidity tends

to be higher. The heat damages the ferns. Some of the common ferns, which make

good houseplants, are given below:

Adiantum Hispidulum

The leaves are made up of leaflets attached in long rows to leaf stalk, which are, in

turn carried on black stalks. When put outside, place it in a shady and sheltered

spot.

Adiantum Raddianum (Maiden Hair Fern)

A very delicate fern which responds immediately if not treated correctly. If the

humidity of the air is too low, or if the fern has not been watered, the edges of the

fine leaflets dry out. If you let the fern stand permanently in water, the whole plant

dies, especially in a cool room. Put this fern in a light spot, but not in direct sunlight.

These plants like humid places so the best place in the house for this fern is the

bathroom.

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Ficus

The unusual combination of withstanding low light and low humidity has made Ficus

a most popular indoor houseplant. Some of these plants grow to great heights

whereas some varieties grow to just a few centimeters above the ground.

Ficus Benjamina

It has small glossy leaves. Some have plain dark green leaves but variegated

varieties have leaves, which are mottled-green and milky-green with a lot of white.

It does not need much light and manages to grow well in the shade too, although the

variegated varieties need more light and higher temperatures. The plant does not

need too much water. So do not water until the soil has almost dried out and make

sure that no water remains standing in the pot. Sometimes you might see that the

leaves are dropping. Leaf drop may be the result of too cold a location, or a draught

or of lack of water.

Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant)

The rubber plant if kept in the light grows straight towards the light, branching like a

crown only at the top. In a fairly dark spot, it will not usually branch, and will grow

as a straight plant. Occasionally wipe the leaves, dip in buttermilk to give the leaves

a beautiful sheen. It does not need too much light and no direct sun light. It can

survive in the shade also. It does not require too much water, so water only when

the soil feels dry.

Arums

These have beautifully coloured and shaped foliage. These also have special flowers

which are arranged on a spadix. The spadix is surrounded by a so-called spathe, a

protective bract. Arums are tolerant of shade and dry air and this makes them ideal

houseplants. Some of the popular varieties are given below:

Monstera Deliciosa "Swiss Cheese Plant"

The leaves of the young plant are heart shaped. When the plant is grown in a light

and not too dry spot, the new leaves will get deeply cleft margins. In ideal

conditions, the leaves get larger and develop oval holes, making the plant look very

ornamental. A light, humid location out of the sun is ideal, although it will grow in

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semi shade and tolerate dry air reasonably well. Water liberally in summers and less

in winters.

Aglaonema Commutatum "Silver Queen"

The leaves are about 8" long with patches of light colour along the veins. Keeping

them healthy indoors is a great job. They do not like dry air and it is therefore

necessary to spray water frequently or to use the "tray method". (This is done by

putting the plant on an upside down saucer in a tray, and filling the tray with water

to just below the bottom of the pot). It can take plenty of water, so what freely

during summers and keep the soil moist in winters.

Philodendron Erubescens "Blushing Philodendron"

A strong plant which does not need much looking after. It has thin red flushed stems

which need support and so the growing plants are often tied around a moss stick. It

does not need much light and water.

Flowers

The flower plants are the heart of the garden. The add colour and rhythm to the

garden when in full bloom. The flowering plants are covered under the following

heads:

SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS

SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS

FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS)

FLOWERING BULBS

SEASONAL PLANTS (ANNUALS) WINTER BLOOMS

(Sowing time-March in the hilly area and October in the plains) Name/Time taken for blooming from sowing

Flower Description

Light Requirement

Notes

Alyssum 2 – 3 months

White, pink, purple and blue.

Shad to Sunny

Pinch the tops for heavy bloom. Remove dead flowers for longer blooming period.

Aster 3 – 3 1/2 months

Mixed coloures in single and doubles

Sunny

Pinch the tops for heavy bloom. Remove dead flowers for longer blooming period

Calendula 2 1/2-3 months

Orange is the most popular colour besides, yellow lemon and of-white. Single and double. New types are pale colours with dark centers.

Sun or light shade

If you pinch early, it will encourage bushiness and thus produce more flowers. Grow in beds and pots.

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Name/Time taken for blooming from sowing

Flower Description

Light Requirement

Notes

Candytuft 2 – 3 months

White, pink and purple clusters.

Sunny Grow in beds and pots.

Carnation 5 months

Single and double with or without fringged petals, Colours--white, cream, yellow, pink, red, purple, orange, maroon, etc.

Full sun

In the hills the planets can be cultivated as perennials. Grow in beds, borders, edges and even pots.

Chrysanthemum

3 months

Vivid colours, crimson, yellow, white, bronze or one colour merging into another, or with distinct zone of a second color.

Sunny

Plants are prepared from tip cutting and planted as early as August to begin blooming by November. Grow in pots or beds

Cineraria 2 1/2 – 3 months

Clusters of white, pink blue flowers appear at the top centre of the plant.

shade or semi shade

Excellent as potted plants grows well in area where sunlight barely reaches

Cosmos 2 1/2 months

Plants branched with feather-like foliage. Flowers are yellow, pink, crimson and white.

Sunny or semi shade

Starts flowering as early as September, right up to March. If protected from rains, it can even be sowed in August.

Dahlia 3 months

Big flowers of 4"-5" diameter, impressive. Wide colour range.

Sunny

When plants reach a height of 10 inches, pinch off the growing tip to encourage branching for better flowers. Remove all buds, except the terminal ones. Grow in beds or in pots.

Daisy 3 – 3 1/2 months

Various mixed colours. Semi sunny

Grow in beds or in pots. Remove dead flowers and branches for higher bloom.

Dianthus 3 – 4 months

Mixed single and double coloured.

Sunny

Hollyhock 3 1/2 months

Large funnel shaped flowers wide range of colours, single or double. A tall plant.

Sunny

Must be used against a wall because it is a tall plant. Flowerings continue even in early summer when other plants dry up. Also in pots.

Gerbera (Root Division) 3 -4 months

Various coloured Semi sunny

Grow in beds or in pots. Remove dead flowers and branches for higher bloom. Excellent cut flowers.

Gazania 3 – 4 months

Various mixed colours Semi sunny

Grow in beds or in pots. Remove dead flowers and branches for higher bloom. Excellent cut flowers.

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Name/Time taken for blooming from sowing

Flower Description

Light Requirement

Notes

Nasturtium 2 months

Bright, yellow, orange, flowers with lots of rounded leaves.

Full sun

Remove some of the leaves before the blooms form to

enhance colour effect. Avoid rich soil as it produces too many leaves and delays flowering. Grow in beds, borders and hanging baskets.

Pansy 3 months

Several beautiful flowers of 2 1/2 "-3" diameter, marked with lines

Sun or partial shade

Ideal for borders and rectangular planters on garden walls. Grow also in beds and as ground cover.

Petunia 3 months

Comes in small ("2") and large ("4") sizes. Several colours.

Good sun

Continues to bloom even with the onset of summer

Phlox 3-3 1/2 months

Tinny flowers in small clusters. All colours

Sunny

Grow in beds, borders, pots and rock gardens. Blooms well till beginning of summer. Sow as early as August.

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Achimenes

Alyssum

Aster

Calendula

Candy tuff

Carnation

Chrysanthemum

Small

Chrysanthemum

Cineraria Cosmos Dahlia Daisy

Dianthus Hollyhock Gerbera Gazaina

Nasturtium

Pansy

Petunia Phlox

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SEASONAL FLOWERS (ANNUALS) SUMMER BLOOMS

(Sowing time-Oct in the hilly area and March in the plains) Name/Time taken for blooming from sowing

Flower Description

Light Requirement

Notes

Balsam 4 months

Flowers single or double in white, pink, purple and red.

Sunny or semi shade

Plants do better in high humidity. So if dry conditions prevail, sprinkle often.

Celosia (Cockscomb) 2 1/2 -3 months

Pink, orange, red, crimson, gold, velvety, plumes or crests.

Full sun Can also be grown as winter annuals.

Gaillardia 3 1/2 -4 months

Single and double flowers in yellow, red.

Sunny

This is a slightly earlier

sowing season. December to April suitable for beds. Plants continue to flower for a long time.

Love Lines Bleeding (Bleeding Heart) 5 – 6 months

Crimson white mix heart shaped with red tail like droppings

Sunny Should be pruned after blooming season.

Marigold French (Targets) 3 31/2 months

Mixed Orange, Red and Yellow

Sunny Plants continue flowering well after the rainy season.

Marigold African Large 3 31/2 months

Orange, yellow and white Sunny Best flowering March – May and Oct to Nov.

Portulaca Single and Double 3 – 4 months

Single and double coloured in various shades – Red, pink, yellow, orange and maroon

Sunny

Can be grown from seeds as well as cuttings. Retain cutting over winter indoors or in shade.

Sunflower 3- 4 months

Flowers are large and yellow, single or double.

Sunny

Grow better near south facing walls. Flowers always face the sun.

Verbena 3-4 months

Blue, White, Pink and multi-coloured in single and double.

Sunny For bushier growth and more bloom pinch the top after 2 months.

Vince Rosa (Sadarbhar) 3 – 4 months

Pink, white, blue and maroon. Single coloured and with white/yellow centre.

Sunny and Semi sun Avoid rains directly hitting the plants.

Zinnia 3 – 3 ½ months

White, rust, dark brown, maroon, copper red, yellow etc. Single & double small (1 1/2") or large (6") flowers.

Sunny

Pinch off early beds to encourage growth. Keep removing dead flower to get better & more blooms.

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Balsam

Celosia

Gaillardia

Bleeding Heart

Marigold French

Marigold African

Portulaca

Salvia

Sunflower

Verbena

Vince Rosa

Zinnia

FLOWERING CLIMBERS (PERMANENT CREEPERS)

(Sowing time-March in the hilly area and February in the plains) Name/Time

taken for blooming

from planting

Flower Description

Notes

Bougainvillea 3 – 5 months

Popular shrub also grown as climber. Flowers commonly deep pink, red, yellow, white; thorns arise from leaf axils.

Pruning should be done to encourage growth of new stems. Prune the plant at the on set of summer.

Cleroonendron Splendors 3 – 4 months

Evergreen climber, dark, glossy leaves. Tiny scarlet flowers, in clusters.

A vigorous climber which gives better flowers if pruned every year during the monsoon. Clerodendron is useful as a screen or wall climber.

Jasmine 3 – 4 months

A bunch of fragment white flowers which give out a lovely fragrance in the evening.

Should be pruned after flowering to check excessive growth.

Passion Flower 3 -5 months

Beautiful watch dial form flowers in purple, pink and blue colour

Should be pruned after flowering season

Railway Creeper 3 – 4 months

Funnel shaped light purple flowers.

Should be growing in spring or in early summer.

Bougainvillea

Cleroonendron

Splendors

Jasmine

Passion Flower

Railway Creeper

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FLOWERING BULBS – summer and Rain season

(Sowing time –April - May in the hilly area and Feb - March in the plains) Name/Time

taken for blooming

from planting

Flower Description

Light Requirement

Notes

Amaryllis 2 – 4 months

Cone shaped various coloured

Sunny

Plants bulbs 3"-4" deep for early flowers and 6"-7" for delayed blooms. Space bulbs 8"-10" apart. To avoid rotting of bulbs. Water very sparingly till leaves appear.

Achimene 3 – 4 months

Beautiful, delicate paper like flowers in pink, white, purple and blue colour.

Semi sunny

Avoid applying water to the flowers as they get damaged. Life of the flowers is from sun rise to dusk.

Caladium (Fancy and Lance leaved) 3 – 4 months

Beautiful multi coloured and variegated in Green, red, pink, purple and maroon colour.

Indirect sun and shade Plant the bulbs 3‖ – 4‖ deep and space bulbs 12 -18 inches apart.

Gladiolus 2-4 months

Flowers are flared-tuber on tall graceful spikes. Many colours - white, pink on on white, red, violet, etc.

Sunny

Plants bulbs 3"-4" deep for early flowers and 6"-7" for delayed blooms. Space bulbs 8"-10" apart. To avoid rotting of bulbs. Water very sparingly till leaves appear.

Haemanthus (Football Lily) 2 – 5 months

Bright red coloured flourletts forming into a round ball.

Semi sunny

Plant bulbs 3‖ – 4 ―deep and 12 – 18 inches apart in beds or single bulb in pots.

Tuberose 3- 3 1/2 months

Tabular, white waxy flowers on

a central spike Surrounded by narrow, long leaves.

Sunny

By varying planting depth and size of bulbs you can vary the flowering time in order get blooms successively. Deeper planting and smaller bulbs gives delayed flowers and vice versa. Manure should be added 15 days before planting bulbs. Plants bulbs to a depth of2"-3", inter space 6"-7" apart. Or plant 2 to 3 bulbs may be removed or left in-location waiting for the next flowering season.

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Amaryllis

Achimene

Caladium

Gladiolus

Football Lily

Tuberose

Plant Care

Grooming and Care

By the removal of dead flowers, the flowering period can be extended. Also, the removal of

shoot tips encourages a neat and attractive plant, while supporting and training stems also

creates a neat appearance. From early autumn to late spring, the Pink Jasmine (Jasminum

polyanthum) creates a wealth of white or pale-pink flowers.

When young plants have shoots 10-18 inches long, insert the support into the potting soil.

Pliable canes are just pushed into it, while plastic loops are attached to the rim. Carefully

cult and train shoots around the support, taking care not to bend or kink them. Repeat this

task several times throughout summer, and regularly feed the plant to encourage growth.

Cleaning Leaves

Proprietary, ozone-friendly sprays are available, and these are ideal for large-leaved plants,

while hairy-leaved types and bristly cacti can be cleaned with a small soft brush. Support

large leaves with one hand and gently wipe a damp cloth or spray with one hand and gently

wipe with a damp cloth or spray with a leaf-cleaner. Do not do this when the plant is in

strong sunlight. Clean plants with many small leaves by gently swirling them in a bowl of

clean water, allowing excess to drain, and dry in gently warmth but away from direct and

strong sunlight.

Remove dirt and dust from bristly cacti, as well as hairy-leaved plants, by using a small,

soft brush. Blowing strongly on leaves while brushing also helps to remove dirt.

Looking After Flowers

Decaying flowers left on plants encourage others to rot, and the decay may then spread to

soft leaves. Also, the removal of dead flowers encourages the development of others. Pull

off the stems of cyclamen flowers that have faded and started to wither. Hold the stem

firmly and tug sharply, so that it comes away from the plant's base. Do not just remove the

flowers.

Pinch off dead flowers from azaleas. Do not leave parts of flowers, as this encourages the

onset of decay around soft shoots. Hold the shoot firmly while carrying out this task.

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Trimming Steams and Shoots

Some plants have a sprawling, scrambling and climbing nature and although this is often

part of their attraction, occasionally stems need to be trimmed. Always trim them from a

leaf-joint, using a sharp knife, scissors or just by holding the stem firmly and snapping it

sideways. Never leave a short piece of stem as this encourages the onset of decay.

Slightly woody stems, such as those on azaleas, are best trimmed with sharp scissors,

cutting back to a leaf-joint. This encourages bushiness and the development of side shoots.

Encourage young plants to form a bushy base by nipping back young shoots to leaf-joints. If

this job is neglected. Plants become bare at their bases and unappealing.

Hoeing

Hoeing or forking is an operation in which the surface soil around the plant, is loosened with

a hoe (khurpi) or a fork and is turned inside out. The hoeing may be up to 7-15 cm (3-

16in.) depth. The object of hoeing is to keep the soil porous so that light, air and water may

reach the roots better, to improve moisture-retention capacity and to remove weeds.

Hoeing has to be done carefully so that the surface or stem roots are not damaged. Hoeing

should be done when soil is moist or dry but not wet and soggy. The best procedure for

hoeing is to water the plants in the morning, hoeing them in the evening and then watering

in the morning. An interval between hoeing and watering helps in the aeration of roots and

absorption of water from a greater depth. Sudden exposure to heat during the hot sunshine

period or to cold at night may cause damage to the roots.

Weeding

Removal of weeds is called weeding. Weeds, besides competing with the garden plants for

nourishment, are also sometimes hosts to pests and diseases, which are transferred from

them to the garden plants. They should, therefore, be removed as soon as they appear.

Stopping

means pinching of a growing shoot of a plant. Stopping also includes removal of side shoots

growing from the axis of the leaf joint with the main shoot as in balsam, larkspur, or

tomato, in order to let the energy of the plant be diverted fully to the flower stem. Stopping

may be done more than once in a season, depending on the growth of plant and its variety.

It is better not to stop more than one or two big shoots and 3-4 small shoots at a time in a

plant.

Disbudding means removal of all but one or two selected buds on a stem. Plants which have

large and decorative flowers need more disbudding than those with small and medium

flowers. Chrysanthemum, dahlia and carnation require heavy disbudding, while roses need

comparatively less of it.

Dead heading

Removal of withered flowers from the plant is called dead heading. Flower is produced in

nature for producing seeds and as soon as seeds are produced the natural function of the

plant having been over, it dies or rests. Therefore, a garden plant should not be allowed to

seed except for purposes of collection of seed. Removal of withered, dried flowers is thus to

prevent the plant from seeding.

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Top-Dressing Large Houseplants

When plants in pots become too large to be repotted, they are top dressed in spring. Allow

the surface soil to dry slightly, then use small trowel (tool for digging) to scrape away the

top 1-1.5 inches.

Replace the surface soil with potting soil. Leave a space between the top of the soil and the

rim of the pot, so that the plant can be watered without the water over flowing, when the

soil in the pot becomes dry.

NUTRIENT NEED OF FLOWERS

Flowers need proper nutrients just like you do. One way to help your flower gardens come

alive is to give them what they need.

Understanding Fertilizers in General

Fertilizer is plant food (nutrients) for flowers, trees, shrubs, and other flora. Nutrients are

available in various amounts in nature, and plant life needs these nutrients to survive and

grow. The primary big 3 of the nutrients that plants need large amounts of are:

Major Plant Nutrients:

Nitrogen

Phosphorus

Potassium

Nitrogen – This is the main nutrient for new green growth. This is especially important for

plants that are mostly all leaf such as grasses. As a result the ratio for lawn fertilizers has a

higher 1st ratio number meaning more nitrogen in the mix.

Phosphorus – This nutrient promotes good root development and strengthens the flower

or plant. It also results in increased blooms on flowers so lots of phosphorus is great for

bulbs and perennials. Fertilizers higher in phosphorus have a higher 2nd number in the

ratio.

Potassium – This builds strong and healthy plants & flowers and improves the overall

health of the flora.

These 3 are the ones that fertilizer manufacturers focus most on and they are known as

―macronutrients‖. There are also nutrients that plants do need but in much smaller

quantities and these are known as ―micronutrients‖. The more important secondary

nutrients are:

Secondary Plant Nutrients

1- Calcium – Improves general plant vigor and promotes growth of young roots and

shoots.

2- Sulfur – This nutrient helps to maintain a dark green color and encourages more

vigorous plant growth.

3- Magnesium – This nutrient helps to regulate uptake of plant foods and assist in

seed formation. It is also important in the formation of dark green color and

encourages vigorous plant growth.

After the major and minor nutrients there are sometimes ―trace elements‖ that play a role

in plant nutrition. Trace elements play a role in helping to develop dark green color and

healthy and vigorous plant growth. These ―trace micronutrients‖ are:

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Trace Micronutrients

Boron

Manganese

Iron

Zinc

Copper

Molybdenum

Manure was once the dominant fertilizer and is still used but less frequently. Fertilizers in

modern times are made either synthetically or organically (manure and or compost). The

Macronutrients are given a ratio on the fertilizer bag to represent the proportions of the

main nutrients that are present in a particular fertilizer mix.

For example, a 5-10-20 fertilizer would have 5% Nitrate, 10% Phosphate, and 20% Potash.

If a particular flower or plant needed higher phosphate levels for healthy growth the middle

number would go up (for example: 5-15-20).

Law of Minimum:

This law states that plant growth is controlled not by the total resources available, but by

the scarcest resource needed by the plant or flower. In other words, extra amounts of

plentiful nutrients do not increase a plant’s growth if the scarce nutrients needed were still

lacking. Only by increasing the amount of the limiting nutrient can a particular plant or

flower have improved growth.

PROPAGATION

Propagation is a scientific name for reproduction in any form of living thing. With plants, it

means making new plants either from seeds or from parts of existing plants. It's usually

very easy to make new plants, and it's one of the most rewarding things about gardening.

PROPAGATION - SOWING SEEDS

Many houseplants can be increased from seeds, whether grown for their flowers, foliage or

berries. Others include palms, ferns, insectivorous plants, cacti and other succulents.

Whatever the type of plant, the seeds need three basic conditions to encourage germination

- moisture, warmth and air. Most seeds germinate in darkness, but a few-such as the Wax

Flower (Begonia semperflorens)-need light. These conditions are created by sowing seeds in

seed compost that both retains moisture yet allows air penetration, and either placing in a

greenhouse or on a warm windowsill indoors.

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Sowing Seeds - Procedure

1. Fill a clean plastic seed-tray with seed compost. If small numbers of seeds are to be

sown, use a shallow seed pan. Do not sow different seeds in the same containers.

2. Using your fingers, firm the seed compost, especially around the sides and edges as this

is where it will start to become dry if regular watering is neglected.

3. Place more seed compost in the seed-tray and strike the surface level with a straight-

edged piece of wood. Try to leave the surface of the compost even and flat.

4. Using a piece of wood with a small handle attached to it, firm the surface until it is about

12mm/1/2 in below the rim. Keep the surface clean to ensure an even surface.

5. Tip the seeds into a folded, V-shaped piece of paper and gently tap the end to encourage

them to fall on the compost. Do not sow seeds within 12mm/1/2 inches from the edge.

Label the box.

6. Some seeds require light to encourage germination, but most need darkness and are

covered to three or four times their thickness. Use a fine-mesh sieve to scatter compost.

7. Water the compost by standing the seed tray in a bowl of clean water. When moisture

seeps to the surface, remove and allow to drain. Do not water from overhead, as it scatters

the seeds.

8. The seed-tray needs to be covered to prevent the surface of the seed compost drying, as

well as maintaining a high temperature. Domed, plastic covers are convenient.

9. An alternative to a plastic cover is a sheet of clear glass. However, condensation

accumulates on the underside and this must be wiped off every day, the glass then turned

upside down.

10. To create a dark environment for dark-loving seed sown on, or almost on, the seed

compost's surface, cover the glass with a sheet of newspaper. Remove when the seeds

germinate.

11. After seeds germinate, remove the covering and allow air to circulate around the

seedlings. Continue to water them by standing the seed-tray in a bowl of water. Avoid

wetting the leaves.

12. When the young plants are sturdy and growing strongly, transfer them into small pots

of potting compost. First water, allowing excess to drain, then pot up individually. Avoid

damaging roots.

13. When the young plants are sturdy and growing strongly, transfer them into small pots

of potting compost. First water, allowing excess to drain, then pot up individually. Avoid

damaging roots.

14. Gently hold each plant by its stem and trickle potting compost around the roots. Take

care not to squeeze the stem-young plants are easily damaged and subsequently may not

subsequently may not recover.

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Repotting of Seedlings

As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they must be moved into individual

pots, where they have more space and an increased amount of air and light. If not

transferred (picked off), they become drawn up, thin and lanky, and eventually unable to

support themselves unless assisted by neighbouring seedlings. Additionally, seedlings tightly

clustered together are more susceptible to diseases than those with a good circulation of air

around them.

When Transferring Seedlings

Don't use potting compost form unsterilized garden soil, as it may contain pests and

diseases.

Ensure the roots of seedlings are moist before being picked off.

Hold young seedlings by a leaf-if held by the stems they soon become damaged if

squeezed.

Dividing Plants

Houseplants mainly grown for their attractive foliage are best divided in spring. Some

flowering types with a perennial nature are also increased in this way, as soon as their

flowers fade but preferably in spring. Flowering plants that finish flowering in autumn are

best divided in spring. Division in spring enables young plants to become established during

summer, while growing strongly.

Plants suitable for division include ...

Sansevieria trifaciataa (Mother-in-Law Plant)

Spathiphyllum wallisii (Peace Lily)

Hedera helix (common Ivy)

Ferns (Many can be divided)

Palms (Many can be divided)

Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet)

Dividing –Procedure

1. Remove the soil ball from the pot by inverting the plant and tapping the rim on the

edge of firm surface.

2. Evidence that division in needed is indicated by a mat of roots around the root-

ball. A mass of white roots indicates that the plant is healthy and growing strongly.

3. Using fingers tease and pull apart the root-ball into several substantially sized

pieces. It may be necessary to cut some roots, but never use a knife to slice through

a plant.

4. Hold a young plant in the centre of a clean pot and trickle fresh potting compost

around the roots. Firm the potting compost and ensure the plant is at the same

depth as before.

5. Water the plants from above and place in gentle warmth. It may be necessary to

shade plants from strong sunlight until roots are established and absorbing water. Do

not water the plant until the compost has started to dry.

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Layering

Tip layering

1. If the plant is growing as a climber, release and lower a shoot. Ensure the potting

compost in the mother plant's pot is moist, and fill a small pot with equal parts moist peat

and sharp sand.

2. Lower a stem to the potting compost, press in about 2.5cm/ l in deep and use a bent

piece of wire to secure it into the potting compost as shown in the picture above. Water the

plant to settle the compost around the stem.

3. When young shoots develop from the tip of the stem, use a sharp knife, scissors or

secateurs to sever it from the parent. To tidy up the plant, cut the shoot back to its source.

Air layering

In case of some plants like shrubs air layering is used as a mode of propagation.

1. Select a soft side branch which has two three nodes, from where the new leaves or

branches would appear.

2. Scrap about 1 inch length of the bark.

3. Cover it all around completely with moist moss.

4. Cover it with a transparent plastic sheet and tie both the ends.

5. After 15-20 days root would emerge.

6. Cut it from the main plant side and transplant it in a pot filled with equal parts moist peat

and sand and potting soil.

Runners

Increasing a spider plant:

1. Chlorophytum comosum (Spider plant) develops long, trailing and arching stems with

small plantlets at their ends. When pegged into pots of potting compost placed around the

mother plant they develop roots.

2. To propagate the plant, use small pieces of bent wire or hairpin to secure the plantlets

into the potting compost. Water, place in gentle warmth.

3. When young shoots start to develop from the plantlets, cut the shoots from the parent

plant and move them into a lightly shaded position until growing strongly. Keep the potting

compost moist.

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Stem-Tip Cutting

Many houseplants can be increased from stem-tip cuttings, each formed from a piece of

stem, several leaves and a terminal shoot. They are usually 7.5-13 cm/3-5in long and, if

possible, taken from the outer area of the parent plant, where they would have been in

good light and growing healthily and strongly. Spindly and weak shoots are not suitable as

cuttings. Additionally, ensure that the mother plant is healthy & strong-wilting plants never

produce good cuttings. Cuttings need a moisture-retentive yet well-aerated potting compost

to encourage rapid rooting, such as equal parts moist peat and sharp sand.

Sometimes it is impossible to take cuttings from a plant without spoiling its appearance.

Also, some plants grown indoors do not produce young shoots that can be used as cuttings.

In greenhouses and conservatories it is often possible to grow plants in out-of-the way

positions, specifically to create young shoots that can be used as cuttings. The Zebra Plant

(Aphelandra squarrosa), Rose of China (Hibiscus rose-sinensis) and the Lollipop Plant

(Pachystachys lutea) are frequently cut back in spring or after flowers fade, young shoots

then growing from leaf-joints. These are subsequently used as cuttings.

Taking Stem-Tip Cuttings

1. Use a sharp knife to cut a strong and healthy shoot from a mother plant, severing it just

above a leaf-joint. Do not leave short spurs, as they are unsightly and encourage the onset

of diseases and decay.

2. Trim the cutting's base to just below a leaf-joint, at the same time cutting off lower

leaves close to the stem. Some cuttings have two leaves at each leaf-joint, others just one.

3. Dip the cutting's base in hormone rooting-powder. Use a small dibber to form a hole into

which the stem in inserted 18-25mm/3/4-l in. Do not bury the lower leaves, as this

encourages rotting.

4. Firm compost around the cutting's base, water from above, insert short split-canes in the

potting compost and cover with a plastic bag. Secure its base around the pot with an elastic

band.

Indoor Hanging Baskets

Displaying houseplants in indoor hanging-baskets needs care and planning. They

attractively fill vertical space but can be difficult to water and look after. Also, they need

firm securing points. Although similar to outdoor hanging-baskets, indoor types must be

fitted with drip trays to ensure excess water does not fall on the floor. Alternatively, plants

can be left in their own pots and all of them placed in a single, wide, large pot that does not

have a hole in its base. This is then suspended in an attractive harness. Both flowering and

foliage trailing plants can be used; if the position is shaded, use only shade-surviving foliage

plants, whereas bright and sunny places can be filled with flowering types.

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Planting an Indoor Hanging Basket

1. Plan the positioning of individual plants before setting them in the basket. Draw a circle

the size of the container on a piece of paper and arrange the plants.

2. Form a thin layer of gravel in the container's base to ensure water can run freely into the

drip tray. If there are just a few large holes, place broken pieces of clay pots over them.

3. Cover the base with peat-based potting compost, to which has been added a handful of

charcoal. Also, clay particles help in moisture retention.

Flowering houseplants for indoor hanging-baskets

Aseschynathus radicans (Lipstick vine)

Aporocactus flagelliformis (Rat's-tail Cactus)

Begonia tuberhybrida pendula (Basket Begonia)

Campanula isophylla (Italian Bellflower)

Columnea microphylla (Goldfish Plant)

Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (Easter cactus)

Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus)

Aseschynathus

Aporocactus

Begonia

Campanula

Columnea

Rhipsalidopsis

Schlumbergera

Grouping Plants in Hanging-Baskets

Instead of removing plants from their pots and planting them in potting compost, plants can

be stood in an ornamental pot (without a hole in its base) and suspended in an ornamental

harness. The advantage of this method is that the display can be changed as soon as one of

the plants stops flowering or becomes unsightly. Flowering houseplants with short seasons

of flower can be displayed in this way, but also use a few foliage types to give the display

permanency.

Example of how to make an indoor hanging basket is given on the following pages.

1. Draw a circle the same size as the bowl on a sheet of paper and place the plants on it. It

is not necessary to create a congested group-a few distinctive plants can be equally

attractive.

2. Select a flat-based bowl 25-30 cm/ 10-12 in wide and 13-15 cm/5-7 in deep. Form a 2.5

cm/ l in deep layer of pea-shingle in the base. Water the plants and allow draining before

putting them in the container.

3. Fill the container with plants from the centre to the outside. Pack moist peat between the

pots-it helps to keep the compost cool and to reduce the amount of water they need.

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4. Sphagnum moss placed around the edges makes the display more attractive. However, it

is essential that the compost can be seen as the plants must be watered individually. Some

plants will need more water than others.

Foliage plants for indoor hanging-baskets

Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri' (Emerald Fern)

Ceropegia woodii (Rosary vine)

Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Epipremnum pinnatum (Devil's Ivy)

Plectranthus oertendahlii (Swedish Ivy)

Olectranthus coleoides 'Marginatus' (Variegated Swedish Ivy)

Asparagus Ceropegia

Chlorophytum

Epipremnum

Plectranthus Olectranthus

INDOOR PLANTS

Indoor house plants make a beautiful addition to any indoor space, add color and texture

and create an impact and give life to any room. Interior decorators often utilize house

plants to help create the mood in the finished space.

When selecting your indoor house plants you must be aware of the conditions in which they

will be growing. Suitable lighting, temperature, and humidity must be present for your plant

to thrive. Choose a plant that will be comfortable in the location it is placed. A healthy,

growing indoor house plant will provide you with much enjoyment.

Some of the important points regarding indoor house plants which should be kept in mind

are as under:

- light levels required

- acceptable temperature ranges

- humidity requirements

- watering requirements and methods

- fertilizer needs

- soil mixtures

- propagation methods

Indoor house plants will require regular maintenance in order to keep them healthy. Some

plants are easier to care for than others, as such you should, before selecting or buying

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plants of your choice, also determine the amount of care required by the plant and time you

have at your disposal.

If you are new to growing indoor houseplants, you should choose an easy care houseplant

that is hardy and requiring less care time. With time and experience you will enjoy caring

for your indoor houseplants. Now you can try some of the houseplants that require more

exacting care.

Although most indoor house plants are grown for their foliage, some will bear flowers and

provide a wider range of color in your living space. Flowering house plants tend to need

more light than those grown for foliage. If your indoor spaces provide sufficient light,

flowering houseplants definitely deserve consideration. One exception is the Peace Lily

which produces beautiful calla like white spaths in medium levels of light.

In addition to the decorative qualities provided by house plants, research has shown that

house plants provide physical and psychological benefits. Indoor houseplants help create a

healthy relaxing environment. Studies have demonstrated that people in indoor

environments containing healthy house plants exhibit less stress and had lower blood

pressure.

In the olden days, drafts and open windows were often the way fresh air was introduced

into our homes and offices. This continual exchange of air with the outdoors acted to

remove the toxins given off by the materials used to build and furnish our homes and

offices. As we improve the energy efficiency of our buildings, this natural exchange of air is

being reduced and the toxins are being trapped inside the rooms. We need to find another

way to clean the air in our houses and offices. Studies have shown that many houseplants

improve indoor air quality.

Some of the most common toxins in our homes are formaldehyde, benzene,

trichloroethylene and carbon monoxide. Formaldehyde is used in carpets, water repellants,

and the pressed wood products used to make furniture. Benzene is found in paints,

detergents and plastics. Trichloroethylene is found in paints and adhesives and is used

extensively in the dry cleaning industry. Carbon monoxide is produced by the incomplete

combustion of fuel and by smoking. It has been shown that these toxins cause respiratory

problems, irritability, headaches and nausea. By cleaning these pollutants from the air,

houseplants improve indoor air quality. They also raise the humidity of the air around them.

Houseplants improve indoor air quality by absorbing the toxins from the air. By the process

of photosynthesis, they give off oxygen thus improving the quality of the air we breathe.

Houseplants improve indoor air quality by removing the byproducts of our daily living and

working. Our cooking of meals and heating of the building release pollutants into the air.

Smoking releases carbon monoxide and formaldehyde.

Studies have shown that under average conditions, one large or two smaller houseplants

per 100 square feet will be sufficient. In badly polluted environments, for example where

there is much new carpeting, more may be needed to provide the same level of air quality.

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By proper selection, placement and care, you can keep your houseplants in optimum

health. When indoor houseplants are healthy, they are at their most efficient in removing

pollutants and adding oxygen and humidity to the air. Healthy houseplants improve indoor

air quality.

Although some houseplants have been found to clean the air better than others it is fair to

assume that most houseplants will improve indoor air quality. Some houseplants improve

indoor air quality better than others.

Large Dominant Indoor Plants

Large and dominant foliage plants can become permanent features indoors, often creating

eye-catching focal points. Some, such as large palms, are superb when seen against a while

background. Some of the easy to grow locally available are given below:

Areca palm

Butterfly Palm Chamendora palm

Footstool Palm

Cyprus alternifolius

These are a type of palms. Some of common varieties are; Umbrella Grass, Umbrella Palm,

Umbrella Plant and Umbrella Sedge Narrow (grass like bracts in umbrella like heads).

Umbrella grass

Umbrella Palm

Umbrella Plant Umbrella Sedge

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INDOOR PLANTS

Some of the easier to grow available indoor plants are given below:

Common Name Botanical Name

Aloe Vera

Aloe Barbadensis Miller

Areca Palm

Chrysalidocarpus lutescens

Pothos

Philodendron

English Ivy

Hedera helix

Boston Fern

Epholepsis exalta

Mother In Laws Tongue

Sansevieria laurentil

Rubber Plant

Ficus Elastica

Peace Lily

Spathiphyllum

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Plants For Bright Places

South-facing windowsills are the brightest positions in a home, but can be too bright for

some plants. Houseplants suggested here happily live within 60 cm/2 ft of windows facing

south. However, plants such as desert cacti (types that grow in semi-desert regions and at

ground-level); succulent plants and pelargoniums thrive on windowsills.

Succulents Succulents Succulents Pelargoniums

If it’s too bright

Net curtains help to make south-facing windows suitable for a wider range of plants in

summer. If there is a direct sun then the leaves become pale, thin leaves, shriveled and

dry, and eventually falling off. Leaves also wilt, especially at midday and in afternoons.

Easy To Grow Desert plants

Cacti (Desert Types)

There are many interesting-shaped cacti to choose from within this group, including those in

families of Ccopiapoa, Chamaecereus, Echinopsis, Lobivia, Mammillaria, Notocactus, Parodia

and Rebuntia.

Ccopiapoa

Chamaecereus

Echinopsis

Lobivia

Mammillaria

Notocactus

Parodia

Rebuntia

Plants For Shaded Areas

No plant will indefinitely survive in total shade, although some grow in shade near a sunless

window or where the light is just sufficient to enable a newspaper to be read. If a plant

appears sickly, move it to better light to encourage recovery. Because of the inherent

difficulties in growing houseplants in little light, those that are difficult to grow cease to be

possible options and therefore most are either easy to grow, or present only a slight degree

of difficulty. Also, some plants that are moderately easy to grow in moderate light become a

challenge when the intensity of light falls. Remember that the intensity of light 2.4m/8ft

from a window is only 5-10% of that on a windowsill.

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If it's too dark

Stems and leaves turn towards the light, although plants can be given a quarter upright

growths. Variegated plants lose their rich colouring and become green. New leaves become

smaller, and paler. Lower leaves become yellow, eventually fall off. Shoots become spindly,

with long spaces between leaf-joints. Flowers cease to develop.

Plants Needing Care

Cissus discolor also called climbing begonia has spear shaped to slightly triangular vivid

green leaves, marbled purple and white. Syngonium podophyllum, also called African

evergreen, has spear like shiny green leaves, which later develop ear like lobes at the stalk

end.

Syngonium podophyllum Arrohead Vine

This is a climbing foliage plant. It has spear shaped shiny green leaves, later developing ear

like lobes at the stalk end. There are several variegated varieties. It grows well in soft light

and can also be grown in slight shade for a limited period of time.

Vegetable Gardening

Vegetable gardening is easy. By involving the whole family in growing your own vegetables

everyone learns the skills of cultivating fresh nutritious vegetables. It is a way of

producing your own food in your backyard that is free of pesticides, herbicides and synthetic

chemicals therefore ultimately healthier for you.

You will find information and products on the following: various types of vegetable

gardens, the necessary tools to make your gardening experience easier and successful and what vegetables to plant.

Benefits of fresh home grown vegetables

Vegetable gardening is a way of making use of your own backyard garden to

produce fresh food

No harmful chemicals have been used in the cultivation of the vegetables

Know that the food that you produce is safe to eat

You will spend less at the supermarket by not buying vegetables

Fresh home grown vegetables are healthier for you

You will be able to make money by selling any surplus vegetables

Vegetable gardening is also a good form of exercise for everyone

By planting the multi coloured varieties of vegetables your garden can become a

place of beauty

Vegetable gardening is also very therapeutic as it is one way of relieving stress

Storing vegetables for days in the refrigerator is a thing of the past

You are saving energy as there is no transportation needed A fresh just picked vegetable is nutritious and full of flavour

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What Vegetables To Grow and When

Easy to grow vegetables and their seasons are give below:

VEGETABLE GROWING TABLE

Vegetable Cold regions (5-10

degree C)

Cool region (10 – 20 degree C

Warm region s (20 – 30 degree

C)

Warm region ( 30 – 40 degree

C)

Hot region (40 – 50

degree C)

Cool Season Vegetables Sowing Period

Beets Late May - June

April - June Feb - March / Aug - Sept

Feb - Apr / July - Aug

Feb - Mar / Sept

Broccoli Late May - June

April - June Feb - March / Aug - Sept

Feb - Mar / June - July

Feb / Sept

Brussels Sprouts Late May - June

April - June Feb / August Late May - Early June

Feb / Sept

Cabbage Late May - June

April - June Feb - March / Aug - Sept

Feb - Mar / June - July

Feb / Sept

Carrots Late May - June

April - June Feb - April / Aug - Sept

Jan - Mar / June - Aug

Feb - Mar / Sept

Cauliflower Late May - June

April - May Feb - March / Aug - Sept

Feb - Mar / June - July

Feb / Sept

Lettuce Late May - June

April - August Feb - March / Aug - Sept

Dec - Mar / July - Aug

Feb / Sept

Onions Late May - June

May - June Dec - Feb / Sept - Oct

Jan - Mar / October

Sept - Oct

Peas Late May - June

April - June Feb - March / Aug - Nov

Jan - April Sept - Oct / Feb - Mar

Radishes Late May - June

April - July Feb - April / Aug - Oct

Feb - April Feb - Apr / Sept - Oct

Spinach Late May - June

April - July Sept - April Jan - Mar / Aug - Sept

Feb - Mar / Sept - Oct

Vegetables Cold regions (5-10 degree C)

Cool region (10 – 20 degree C

Warm region s (20 – 30 degree C)

Warm region ( 30 – 40 degree C)

Hot region (40 – 50 degree C)

Warm Season Vegetables Sowing Period

Beans June May - June March - Aug April - May / July - Aug

March - April

Corn June May March - July April - July March - April / July - Aug

Cucumbers June May - June March - June April - June March - August

Eggplant June May April - June April - May March - May

Melons June May March - June April - June March - June

Peppers June May April - June April - May March - April

Summer Squash June May - June March - July April - July March - June

Winter Squash June May April - June April - May May - June

Tomatoes June May March - July April - May March - April

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Companion gardening

It has been there since the Birth of Planet Earth. In the jungles and the rainforests of South

America, Arunachal, Mizoram and Uttarakhand it grows naturedly.

We gardeners may be doing it but without calling it COMPANION GARDENING. What is it?

It is all that simple --- you could never have guessed it.

- Attracting good bugs and keeping away the bad ones

- Adding nutrients into the soil

- Sometimes, even as simple as providing a bit of shade for sun sensitive plants

There are two ways you can do this.

- By planting certain plants together (e.g.: onions and carrots like each other, whereas

beans and onions don’t)

- By planting additional plants into the vegetable patch (e.g.: marigolds which normally one

does not plant along with the vegetable plants, but they are a great companion plant.)

- Similarly one does not plant flowers along with the vegetable plants, but some vegetables

planted along with the flowers do wonders. If you plant garlic between your rose bushes

these will grow better and pest free.

Planting roses between each grapevine helps the grapes grow better and also adds a rosy

flavour to the grapes.

This procedure is new to the grower though in nature it has been there since time

immemorial. Lot of experiment has to be done --- like which plant goes with which one and

how many of these should be planted to overcome the problem

This is good for the vegetables but what about those flowers?

There are a number of flowers which you can add to the garden to get astonishing results.

Geraniums: Attract pests away from roses and grape vines, distracts beet leafhoppers away

from plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and tobacco.

Marigolds: French marigolds produce a pesticide chemical from their roots, which is so

strong that it lasts years a number of years even if no new ones are planted. These will

repel whitefly. Mexican marigolds will do the same, but their bushiness and height may

affect the growth of some of the tender herbs.

Nasturtiums: Works as a trap crop for aphids, and studies say is among the best at

attracting predatory insects. They will attract Black Fly.

The trees also play their vital role in the Companionship growing.

Planting trees and shrubs is help to beautify any garden provided there is enough space.

Remember some trees are also companion plants. Local, native trees and shrubs will attract

the good pollinating insects (like butterflies, bees, and native wasps), reptiles, beetles and

many other garden helpers.

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Companion Planting Guide

Plant Companions Function Foes

Apple Nasturtium Climbs tree and repels codling

moth.

Asparagus Tomatoes, Parsley, Basil

Balm Tomatoes Improves growth and flavour -

attracts bees

Basil Tomatoes helps repel flies and mosquitoes Rue

Beans Potatoes Carrots, Cucumber,

cauliflower, summer savory,

most other vegetables and

herbs.

Onions Garlic

Gladiolus

Beetroot Onions, Lettuce, Cabbage,

Silver beet, Kohlrabi

Borage Tomatoes, squash and

strawberries

Deters tomato worm, improves

growth and flavour and in the

strawberry patch will increase the

yield.

Brassica’s

(Cabbage,

Cauliflower, Broccoli

Aromatic plants, sage, dill,

camomile, beets, peppermint,

rosemary, Beans, Celery,

Onions, Potatoes, dwarf

zinnias.

Dill attracts a wasp to control

cabbage moth. Zinnias attract

lady bugs to protect plants.

strawberries,

Tomatoes

Broad beans Potatoes, Peas, Beans

Carrots Lettuce, Peas, Leeks, Chives,

Onions, Cucumbers, Beans,

tomatoes, wormwood, sage,

rosemary

Dill in flower

and being

stored with

apples Cauliflower Celery

Celery & Celeriac Chives, Leeks, Tomatoes,

Dwarf Beans

Chamomile Cabbages and onions Deters flies and mosquitoes and

gives strength to any plant

growing nearby.

Citrus Bracken Fern grape vines Repels stink beetles

Comfrey Avocados and most fruit trees Garden edging, compost activator,

medicinal, foliage spray, nutrient

miner, essential to all gardens.

Cucumbers Beans, corn, peas, radish,

sunflowers

Potatoes,

aromatic

herbs

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Plant Companions Function Foes

Dill Brassica’s Dill attracts predator wasp for cabbage moth.

Fennel (not F. vulgare or F.officionale) repels flies, fleas and ants

Most plants dislike it

French Marigold Tomatoes most vegetables.

Root secretions kill nematodes in the soil. Will repel white fly amongst tomatoes.

Fruit trees nettles, garlic, chives,

tansy, southernwood and horseradish

Garlic Roses, raspberry helps keep aphids away from roses and raspberries, repels cabbage butterfly

Peas and beans

Geranium Strong aroma - deters insects and encourages bees

Grapes Hyssop, tansy and sage Hyssop Cabbage, grapes Attracts cabbage white

moth keeping Brassica’s free from infestation.

Radishes

Leek Onion, celery, carrot Lettuce tall flowers, carrots,

radish, onion family Flowers offer light shade for lettuce

Marigolds Tomatoes, most

vegetables Kills couch, nematodes and eel worm

Melon Radish Mint Cabbage, tomatoes Deters white cabbage

moth, deters ants and fleas (especially spearmint), will deter clothes moths.

Nasturtium Radishes, cabbages, zucchini cucurbits, fruit trees

Secrete a mustard oil, which many insects find attractive and will seek out, particularly the cabbage white moth. The flowers repel aphids and the cucumber beetle. The climbing variety grown up apple trees will repel codling moth.

Onion and garlic Beets, summer savory, tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries, camomile

Parsley Tomato, asparagus, roses Deters rose beetle, improves tomato and asparagus.

Peas Carrots, turnips, corn,

beans, radishes, cucumbers, most vegetables and herbs

Onions, garlic gladiolas, potatoes

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Plant Companions Function Foes

Pumpkin Corn Potato Pyrethrum Will repel bugs if grown

around the vegetable garden.

Radish Peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers, spinach

Radish attracts leaf minor away from spinach

Raspberry Most vegetables Blackberries, tomatoes, potato

Rosemary Cabbage, beans, carrots, sage

Deters cabbage moth, bean beetles and carrot fly

Roses Garlic, chives, parsley, mignonette lettuce.

Sage Rosemary, cabbage and carrots

Deters cabbage moth and carrot fly

Cucumbers

Spinach Strawberries Squash Nasturtium Corn Strawberries Bush bean, spinach,

borage, lettuce Cabbage

Sunflower Cucumbers Potato Sweet Corn Potatoes, Peas, Beans,

cucumbers, pumpkin, squash

Corn acts as a trellis for beans and beans attract predators of corn pests.

Here and there in the garden

Protects cabbages, improves growth and flavour of vegetables, general insect repellent.

Tomatoes Asparagus, Parsley, Chives, onion, Broccoli, Sweet Basil, marigold, carrots, parsley.

Turnip Peas, nasturtium, lettuce, cucumbers

Wormwood (Artemesia, not Ambrosia)

Although it can inhibit the growth of plants near it, wormwood does repel moths, flies and fleas and keeps animals off the garden.

Yarrow Near aromatic herbs and vegetables

Plant along borders and paths. Enhances essential oil production and flavour

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LAWNS

Lush green and a well-maintained lawn is most soothing site in a garden. For healthy and

dense growth, a lawn should get good amount of direct sunlight. Shadow cast by trees with

its large, dense canopy or a tall building near the lawn could harm the lawn. The roots of

the large trees also can compete with lawn; thus near the roots of the tree, the lawn will

grow patchy and sparse.

Preparing the Site: To prepare the bed for the lawn, the ground should be dug out at least

up to 15 cm depth. If the existing soil is of not of good quality, then it is better to replace it

with good fertile soil. For good drainage it is better to put about 3 cm thick layer of

brickbats or coarse gravely soil at the bottom. Over this give a layer of soil and farmyard

manure, thoroughly mixed, in proportion of 3 parts soil and 2 parts farmyard manure. All

stones larger than 2 cm should be removed from this mixture. This layer should be about 6

cm thick. The uppermost layer for lawn surface should be made up by mixing thoroughly,

equals parts of soil and farmyard manure. Stones larger than ½ cm from the soil should be

removed before mixing.

Using a rake levels the soil surface. By raking not only leveling is done, but, large stones, if

left in the soil, can be removed. Large stones left near the soil surface are capable of

damaging the lawn mower blades. After this, drench the site thoroughly with water. This will

help the soil-manure settle well, without leaving large air pockets. When the soil surface

turns drier the site is compressed by using a light lawn roller. If the soil is very wet, then it

will stick to the roller. Unless rolling is done, the soil starts settling down unevenly, thus

spoiling the lawn level.

Lawn Grass Planting: It is advisable to water the bed regularly for a few days before the

lawn is actually planted. In this period the weeds start sprouting. The weeds should be

removed regularly. After the site is comparatively weed-free, tufts of lawn grass can be

planted. At the time of planting, the soil should be moist. Clumps of lawn grass should be

planted at about 5 cm distance. If this is done, a perfect lawn can be prepared in 30 to 40

days. Planting with tufts of grasses is always preferable and cheaper than to sowing lawn

grass seeds. In India most lawns are made by planting tufts only.

Types of Lawn Grasses: Cynodon grass commonly called as Doob grass or Durva is very

sturdy. This grass prefers a very sunny location. It is quite drought resistant. Bermuda

grass, a fine-leaf variety of Cynodon has shorter inter-nodes. Shorter inter-nodes make it

look more dense and carpet-like. Paspalum grass has wide leaf blades. For semi-shady

locations Paspalum will be a better choice. This grass also needs less maintenance, but

looks little coarse compared to Cynodon varieties. Zoysia, commonly called as carpet grass

or jumping grass has a tendency of forming lumpy growth. This makes it unsuitable for the

lawns which are often used as sit outs. Though, due to the lumpy growth, the lawn has its

own beauty, it is one of the difficult ones to maintain. If mowed regularly the lumps are not

formed and in that case its asset of the lumpy growth is lost. Mowing after the lumps are

formed is almost impossible. At this time only lawn shears can be used. Though this carpet

grass feels soft to a bare foot, a freshly mowed Zoysia is capable of poking. Compared to

other grasses, Zoysia spreads slower. In certain cases this is an advantage. Unlike Cynodon

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and Paspalum, this grass won't easily creep in to flowerbeds surrounding the lawn. If the

location of the lawn is shady or under a tree the best grass to plant is Neelgeri grass. It is

very hardy and grows even in locating with poor sun light.

Bermuda grass Cynodon grass

Doob grass Paspalum grass

Zoysia grass Lawn Lawn sprinkler Lawns

Watering: Roots of lawn grasses do not grow very deep; most of the roots are within 10 to

15 cm depth of the soil cover only. That is why thorough drenching of the lawn in not

needed. In fact light sprinkling of water more often is a better method of watering the

lawns. Watering of the lawn should be done only after the top surface of the lawn seems to

be turning dry. In a sandy and well-drained soil and also in raised lawns watering should be

done more frequently. If watering is done in such a manner that the soil surface remains

excessively moist, then green, slippery moss starts growing on the soil surface. This

condition will certainly make the lawn grow sparse. For watering of lawns lawn sprinklers

are available. Alternately, a hose fitted with a rose also may be used. Lawns can be watered

any time of the day. However, it is better to water them in the morning, as in the evenings

normally one likes to relax on the lawn.

Mowing: Mowing of the lawn should be done very regularly; preferably, ones a week.

Allowing the lawn to grow tall and then cutting it very low may save the labour. If cut low,

the brownish-yellow patches of lower leaf blades come in to view. This makes the lawn look

unattractive. So never cut the lawns low. Mow them so that the carpet-like look is imparted.

Small patches of lawns can be cut by lawn shears. For uniform look bigger lawns must be mowed with lawn mowers.

Lawn mowers are of two types. Wheel type and roller type. Wheel lawn mowers are cheaper

and lighter compared to a roller type of the same size. However, wheel type mowers tend to

get stuck in wet soil. This causes problems in monsoon. Advantage of using a roller type

mower is that, it does not get stuck in wet soil and gives more uniform cuts. As the lawn is

being mowed, a roller mower also levels some minor unevenness of the soil surface. All

lawn mowers have a grass box attached. This box collects grass clippings. Now a day’s

engine driven and electric mowers too are available. In north India, in certain places, a type

of sword is used to cut lawns. The long sword is swung, striking the grass. Sharp edges of

the sword shears the grass. With this method uniform cutting is not possible. This way the

clippings are scattered over a wide area. So cleaning the lawn with a broom becomes

necessary. In remote places, where repairs and maintenance of the mowers becomes

difficult and expensive; and where the labour is cheap, this method of sword slashing of large lawns is much faster than using a lawn shears.

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Aftercare: Do not trample lawns. Pathways in lawns can be made with stepping-stones,

alternatively with bricks or tiles. As the grass grows, it tends to form very thick mats of

roots just below the soil surface. This prevents aeration of roots and water from percolating

deep enough. As the surface soil dries quickly, the grasses get starved of water. If the root

mats are carefully examined, one will notice that they are devoid of any soil or manure. In

such a case the lawn grasses tend to compete with each other and start losing the vigour

and gradually turn brownish. To rectify this condition "spiking" of the lawn becomes

necessary. Spiking is a process in which the lawn surface is poked with a pointed instrument

to at least 5 cm depth. For this a garden fork, a crow bar or a pickaxe also can be used.

These implements must be poked in the ground and also pulled out straight (90 degrees to

the soil surface). In foreign countries spiked rollers are available. These rollers simplify the

job of spiking. Before spiking, the lawn should be mowed as low as possible. Closer the

poked holes better will be the results. After spiking is done, the lawn grass should be

covered with finely sieved (3 mm mesh sieve) mixture of 3 parts of farmyard manure and 2

parts of good garden soil. Spiking and top-dressing of a lawn should be done once in 6

months to prevent severe root matting. One may use chemical fertilizers, such as urea, for

lush green look of the lawn. However, the organic manures are must for the lawns. Amongst

the weeds which could cause serious damage to the lawn is Cyprus rotundas. These grass-

like weeds have a widespread, underground root system. They also have underground

runners which produce numerous tubers. When the weed is pulled out, most of the runners

along with tubers remain in the ground only; which continue to grow again and again. So as

soon as this weed is seen sprouting in the lawns, they must be dug out of the ground

without any delay. This will prevent them from forming the underground runners and tubers.

Ground Covers: Great effort is needed to maintain a perfect lawn. The sprawling open

spaces, which are hardly used as sitting places, can be planted with ground covers. Though

grasses too are ground covers, certain creeping herbs used for covering the grounds are

called as 'ground covers'. Wedelia, Pilea, Pellionia, Plectranthus, Hemigraphis,

Alternanthera, Syngonium, money plant, Tradescantia, Callisia, selaginella, Episcia,

Portulaca, Bramhi, Helxine etc. are very good as ground covers

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SOIL pH RANGES

5 5.5 5.5-

5.9

6.0–

6.4

6.5-

6.9

7 7.1-

7.5

7.6-

8.0

9

SLIGHTLY ALKALINE

VERY SLIGHTLY ALKLINE

STRONGLY ACID NEUTRAL

VERY SLIGHTLY ACID

MEDIUM ACID SLIGHTLY ACID

Soil pH Scale Description:

Note: The pH scale is based on the powers of 10.

For example: a pH level of 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 7.

pH of: 5.5 and less = Strongly Acid

pH of 5.5 - 5.9 = Medium Acid

pH of 6.0 – 6.4 = Slightly Acid

pH of 6.5 – 6.9 = Very Slightly Acid

pH of 7.0 = Neutral

pH of 7.1 – 7.5 = Very Slightly Alkaline

pH of 7.6 – 8.0 = Slightly Alkaline

Soil pH is simply a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. Soil pH is critical

because it affects the health of plants. Before a nutrient can be used by plants it must be

dissolved in soil water (most nutrients dissolve best when the soil is slightly acidic to

neutral). The good news is… Soil pH is easy to check and can be altered / corrected.

The scale range of Soil pH goes from 0 to 14 with the lower end of the scale being Acidic

pH (0 to 6) and the higher end of the scale being Basic pH (8 to14). Most garden and

landscape plants prefer a ph in the range of 6 to 7.2 which is considered closer to Neutral

pHs

If you have a plant that prefers a Soil pH in the range of 6 to 7.2, and your Soil pH is 5

(strongly acidic), your plant is going to have major challenges. On the other hand, some

plants prefer acidic soils to do well. An example is Azaleas which prefer acidic soils to do

best.

Steps to the Correct Soil pH Levels:

1- Determine the best Soil pH for the particular plant or plants you are growing. This can be

found on the package or by asking the lawn and garden professional where the purchase is

made.

2- Determine the Soil pH in your garden area. Do this by taking samples from a few

different areas and testing the mixture. One method to test is using a Soil pH dye kit where

you saturate the soil sample with a dye and the resulting color change tells you the pH

range. Another way is to send your soil sample to a local county extension agent or work

through a local master gardener to get the test results. A third way to measure is with a pH

meter.

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3- Match up what you will be planting to what your actual Soil pH is. If you are planting

something that needs neutral soil and your ph level is acidic then you need to add

something to the soil to raise the pH level to neutral for example.

Changing the Soils pH Levels:

Lime is usually added to acid soils to increase soil pHs. The addition of lime not only

replaces hydrogen ions and raises soil pH, thereby eliminating most major problems

associated with acid soils but it also provides two nutrients, calcium and magnesium to the

soil. Lime also makes phosphorus that is added to the soil more available for plant growth

and increases the availability of nitrogen by hastening the decomposition of organic matter.

Liming materials are relatively inexpensive, comparatively mild to handle and leave no

objectionable residues in the soil.

The application of anhydrous ammonia as a nitrogen fertilizer contributes to lowering the

Soil pHs. Other elements to add to your soils to lower the pH levels are:

Acid Sphagnum Peat

Iron Sulfate

Aluminum Sulfate

Elemental Sulfur

Note: Consult a local Agricultural extension Officer if possible before changing your pH

levels because each region has unique sets of environmental circumstances. They will be

able to tell you specifically what to add to your Soil for best results.

Examples of Soil pH Preferences for Plants

Flowers & Soil pH preferences:

Acid Soil: Azaleas, Hydrangea, Protes, etc.

Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Roses, Tulips, Waratah, etc.

Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Carnations, Daffodils, etc.

Fruit Crop Soil pH preferences:

Acid Soil: Apples, Macadamia, Nectarine

Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Grapes, Peach, Pears, Apricot, etc.

Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Cherry, Plum, Almond, etc.

Vegetable Crop Soil pH preferences:

Acid Soil: Blackberry, Blueberry, Potato, Pumpkin, Strawberry, Watermelon, Rhubarb,

Sweet Corn, Sweet Potato, Raspberry, Squash, Tomato, Turnips, etc.

Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Beans, Brussels Sprout, Carrots, Colards, Cucumber, Eggplant,

Garlic, Mustard, Parsley, Peas, Peppers, Radish, Spinach, Watercress, etc.

Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Cabbage, Asparagus, Beetroot, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower,

Celery, Cress, Leek, Lettuce, Muskmelon, Okra, Onion, etc.

Field Crop Soil pH preferences:

Acid Soil: Cotton, Oats, Peanuts, Linseed, Lupines, etc.

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Slightly Acid to Neutral Soil: Barely, Corn, Kale, Canola, etc.

Neutral to Alkaline Soil: Chickpeas, Field Peas, Lentils, Safflower, etc.

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