basf sodium ascorbyl phosphate vitamin c serum

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  • 8/10/2019 BASF Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Vitamin C Serum

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    Hair Care

    Skin Care

    Oral Care

    Technical Information

    July 2005

    Supersedes issue dated May 2005

    MEMC 050423e-00/Page 1 of 24

    Sodium Ascorbyl

    Phosphate

    = Registered trademarkof BASF Aktiengesellschaft

    Active ingredient for the cosmetics industry.Acts as an in-vivo antioxidant, promotes collagen formation,lightens the skin.

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    Structural formula

    Synonym L-ascorbic acid-2-monophosphate, trisodium salt

    Molecular formula C6H

    60

    9Na

    3P

    Molar mass 322.05 g/mol

    INCI name Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    CAS-No. 66170-10-3

    Description Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable vitamin C derivative. The product is awhite to pale beige powder with practically no odor.

    Specification Parameter Requirement Method

    Purity min. 95% 05/0071.00

    Vitamin C content min. 45.0% 05/0072.00Identity Passes test 05/0072.00

    Solubility (10% in water) Solution is clear -

    Water Max. 11% 05/0070.00

    pH value (3% in water) 9-10 05/0073.00

    Heavy metals max. 20 ppm 05/0030.00

    Arsenic max. 2 ppm 05/0030.00

    Application Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an active ingredient for sophisticated cosmeticskin-care products. It is a stable vitamin C derivative. It protects the skin,promotes its development and improves its appearance.

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is cleaved enzymatically in the skin to releaseactive vitamin C.Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is therefore an effective antioxidant which protectsthe cells against damage caused by free radicals.Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate counteracts skin aging in promoting collagenformation.Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate also acts on the melanine formation process toprevent hyperpigmentation and senile keratosis. It therefore has skin lighteningproperties.Because of its wide spectrum of action, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is suitablefor use in a wide range of skin care products.As an effective watersoluble anti-oxidant which is stable in cosmetic formulationit is the perfect completion to Vitamin E Acetate, which is the common oil-soluble equivalent. The oilsoluble Vitamin E Acetate together with the water-

    soluble Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate are the perfect anti-oxidant system in allskin-care formulations which are used against the daily environmental stress forthe skin.Other very important areas of use are sun protection formulations, antiwrinkleproducts, body lotions, day creams and night creams, and whitening products.

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    Recommended concentrations Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateDaily skin care 0.2-2%Sun care products 0.2-1%Lightening products >3%

    Solubility It is possible to prepare solutions of up to 64% in water, 13.2% in glyceroland 1.6% in propylene glycol with sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It is practically

    insoluble in ethanol, isopropyl myristate, cetostearyl octanoate, caprylic/caprictriglyceride and C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

    Stability/Storage The product should be stored and transported in the original sealed containers,protected from light and moisture, at temperatures below 25C. Contact withmetals should be avoided. The product is stable for at least 24 months if storedin the original sealed containers at 25C.

    Stability in water andcosmetic formuations

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is far more stable than Ascorbic Acid in water.Stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and ascorbic acid in 3% solutions inwater at 40C and pH 6:

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is stable in a wide range of formulations (see typicalformulations).

    Stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in different formulations (see typicalformulations) at 20C, pH 6.5:

    When the formulations were kept at 40C, they became discoloured after about2 months, and assumed a pale beige colour. Finished products should thereforebe stored at temperatures below 25C.

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    Stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in different formulations at 40C, pH 6.5:

    The stability of the product depends very much on the pH value of theformulation. The best stability is obtained at pH values above 6.5.

    Stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 3% in water at different pH valuesat 40C:

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    Stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate approx. 1% in formulation62/00082NDE at different pH values at 20C:

    Technical propertiesand handling

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a crystalline solid that is sensitive to heat,moisture, low pH values and heavy metals.In the production of cosmetic care products, it is recommended to addSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to formulations at a low temperature (

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    ResultsHuman keratinocytes (HaCaT-cells) were supplemented with Vitamin E Acetate(VEA) diss. In 0.1% ethanol for seven days and/or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate(SAP) for 48 hrs. The following concentrations were tested alone and incombination with the other active ingredient.VEA: 3, 10, 30, 100, 300 micromolarSAP: 50, 100, 200, 400 micromolarThe anti-oxidant effect was determined in measuring the ability to inhibit

    hydrogen-peroxide induced oxidation. The cells were incubated with thefluorescence label DCFH. The oxidative stress was induced with 200 micromolarhydrogen peroxide. (These a very harsh conditions.) The capability of VEA andSAP to inhibit oxidation was measured in determing the resulting fluorescence.

    The chart above shows an example with both SAP and VEA at highconcentrations.With VEA alone in a concentration of 300 micromolar the inhibition of oxidationis 10%. With SAP alone in a concentration of 400 micromolar the inhibition ofoxidation is 14%.If VEA and SAP are used together in the above mentioned concentration, theinhibition of oxidation is over 30%. This is a synergistic effect, because thetheoretical addition of the two ingredients results only 24%.

    The effect is much higher than with the single compounds alone and even higherthan the theoretical addition.

    The following chart shows all the results together.

    First column is SAP alone at different concentrations. The effect is dosedependant, because it increases with the concentration. However, a saturation

    occurs. From a certain concentration level on, an increase in concentration doesnot lead to a higher effect. The fact, that 200 mol/L gives the highest effectwith 18% while the concentration of 400 mol/L is a bit lower should not beoverrated. This will be due to margin of error.

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    The second column is the control experiment. The cells are in an aqueousenvironment. SAP is soluble in water, so not a problem. Vitamin E Acetate (VEA)is oil-soluble, so it has to be brought into solution with a vehicle. This vehicle is0.1% Ethanol, so a simple dispersion. The results shown in this column are thesame as in the first column without the vehicle (within margin of error). Thereforethe vehicle does not have an effect. The results for VEA in this test-system aretrustworthy.The columns 3-7 show the results with VEA alone and the results of the

    experiments with the combination of VEA and SAP.The results of VEA alone are the blue ones, always the first column in one group.The concentration increases to the right. The effect is similar to the one of SAP,however lower in value. Increase of concentration leads to a higher effect andagain there is a saturation effect. At a certain point an increase of concentrationdoes not lead to a higher effect. Maximum effect is 10% inhibition.All the other columns represent combinations of SAP and VEA. It becomesclearly visible that much higher effects can be obtained if a combination of SAPand VEA is used compared to the values where only one ingredient is used.

    Summary of in-vitro study and conclusionsThe maximum inhibition of hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidation with SodiumAscorbyl Phosphate (SAP) and Vitamin E Acetate (VEA) alone are 18% and10%, respectively.

    Higher values of inhibition can be obtained only if a combination of SAP and VEAis used.

    Due to their different solubilities SAP protects the aqueous cytosol part ofthe system, while VEA is incorporated into the oil-soluble cell-membranes.The synergistic effect of SAP and VEA is therefore due to the fact that onlya combination of a watersoluble with a fatsoluble anti-oxidant offers integralprotection.

    Further efficacy studies The penetration of ascorbyl phosphates into the skin and their cleavage torelease vitamin C have been demonstrated in studies by Sakamoto(T. Sakamoto, M. Egawa, M. Tanaka, 19th IFSCC Congress, 2, 5-17 (1996))and Takashima (H. Takashima, H. Nomura, Y. Imai, H. Mima, Amer. Perfumer a.Cosmetics, 86, 29-36 (1971).The action of vitamin C phosphate in promoting collagen formation has beendemonstrated in an in-vitro study by Hata (R-I. Hata, H. Senoo, J. Cell. Physiol.138, 8-16 (1989)).Vitamin C phosphate is capable of supressing the formation of melanine.Sakamoto has demonstrated this in-vitro on melanocyte cultures. He foundthat melanine production was reduced by 80%. A study by Majmudar (G.Majmudar, G. Jacob, Y. Laboy, L. Fisher, J. Cosmet. Sci., 49, 361-367 (1998))demonstrates the skin lightening effect of ascorbyl phosphate in another in-vitromodel that used human epidermis. A reduction of tyrosinase activity by 35%was demonstrated.

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    The antioxidant effect of ascorbyl phosphates in protecting the skin against UVdamage has also been demonstrated in a number of studies, e.g. by Kobayashi(S. Kobayashi, M. Takehana, S. Itoh; Photochem. Photobiol. 64, 224-228(1996)). A reduction in lipid peroxidation and an anti-inflammatory effect havebeen demonstrated in hairless mice after treatment with ascorbyl phosphates.A study conducted by BASF on 20 test persons shows that a formulationcontaining 1% Sodium Acorbyl Phosphate applied to the skin can reduce UV-induced lipid peroxidation by 30%.

    Suppression of lipid peroxidation by topically applied Sodium AscorbylPhosphate compared with an untreated area of skin, in 20 test persons:

    The efficacy of a combination of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and a nucleophileas nitrosamine blockers for cosmetic formulations that contain secondary

    amines and potential nitrosation reagents has been demonstrated by Guthrie (W.Guthrie, Safety First, Soap Perfumery and Cosmetics, 17(2), 43-46 (1998)).

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    Typical formulations Face lotion with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate No. 52/00077

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 1.50 CremophorCO40

    (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated CastorOil

    50.00 Water dem. Aqua

    q.s. Perfume

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 Bisabolol nat. (1) Bisabolol

    15.00 Ethanol 96% Alcohol

    2.00 Witch HazelDistillate

    (212) Witch Hazel (HamamelisVirginiana) Distillate

    0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    28.20 Water dem. Aqua

    Production: Solubilize the components of phase A.

    Dissolve phase B and stir it into phase A.Adjust the pH value to about 5-6.

    Body lotion with SAP No. 62/00056

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    6.00 Grape seed oil Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil

    3.00 Imwitor 960 K (11) Glyceryl Stearate SE

    1.50 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    0.50 Abil 350 (44) Dimethicone

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    2.00 Glycerin 87% (20) Glycerin

    1.00 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

    q.s. Preservative

    65.30 Water, dem. Aqua

    C 8.00 Luvitol EHO (1) Cetearyl Ethyhexanoate

    0.30 Carbopol 940 (6) Carbomer

    D 0.30 TriethanolamineCare (1) Triethanolamine

    E 3.00 Aloe vera lipo-quinone extract

    (51) Aloe Barbadenis Extract

    2.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    0.10 D,L-Alpha-Tocopherol

    (1) Tocopherol

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to approx.80C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize thoroughly. Stir in phase C,neutralize with phase D and homogenize.Cool to approx. 40C, add phase E andhomogenize again.

    Properties: Viscosity: approx. 1900 mPasHaake Viskoster VT-02

    pH value: approx. 7.9

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    Day cream No. 62/00065

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    4.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    10.00 Luvitol EHO (1) Cetearyl Ethyhexanoate

    3.00 Cutina Gms (44) Glyceryl Stearate

    5.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    B 0.20 Edeta BD (1) Disodium EDTA

    5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    q.s. Preservative

    68.30 Water, dem. Aqua

    C 0.50 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to approx.80C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize thoroughly. Cool to approx. 40C,add phase C and homogenize again.

    Properties: Viscosity: approx. 20 000 mPasHaake Viskoster VT-02

    pH value: approx. 7.0

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    Rich vitamin night cream No. 62/00082

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    3.00 Amerchol L 101 (3) Mineral Oil, Lanolin Alcohol

    6.00 Isopropyl myristate (27) Isopropyl Myristate

    2.00 Dow Corning 345Fluid

    (16) Cyclopentasiloxane,Cyclohexasiloxane

    2.00 Elfacos C 26 (2) HydroxyoctacosanylHydroxystearate

    2.00 Elfacos ST 9 (2) PEG-45/Dodecyl GlycolCopolymer

    5.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxus Chinesis) Oil

    0.10 Ascorbyl palmitate Ascorbyl Palmitate

    B 5.00 Glycerin 87% (20) Glycerin

    0.20 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    0.10 Citric acid (20) Citric Acid

    q.s. Preservative

    55.60 Water, dem. Aqua

    C 5.00 Water, dem. Aqua

    1.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    D 2.00 D,L-alpha-Tocopherol

    (1) Tocopherol

    5.00 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to approx.80C. Stir phase B into phase A and briefliyhomogenize. Cool to approx. 40C withstirring, add phases C and D and homogenizeagain.

    Properties: Viscosity: approx. 5 300 mPasBrookfield RVD VII+

    Face lotion with SAP No. 52/00078

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    q.s. Cremophor CO 40 (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor

    Oil

    q.s. Perfume

    3.00 1,2-Propylene GlycolCare

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 Bisabolol nat. (1) Bisabolol

    15.00 Ethanol 96% Alcohol

    2.00 Hamamelis dest. (6) Witch Hazel (HamamelisVirginiana) Distillate

    1.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    78.90 Water, dem. Aqua

    Procedure: Weigh out the components and dissolvethem clearly. Adjust the pH value to 5-6

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    Hand cream with ACE No. 62/00095

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    10.00 Paraffin Oil Mineral Oil

    3.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    5.00 Miglyol 812 (11) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

    2.00 Elfacos ST-9 (2) PEG-45/Dodecyl GlycolCopolymer

    5.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    62.40 Water dem. Aqua

    C 2.00 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    0.20 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    0.10 BHT (20) BHT

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about85C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phaseC and homogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion and

    the filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 20 000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+

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    Body lotion with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate,Healthy & Young, Type O/W

    No. 62/00069

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    6.00 Grape Seed Oil Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil

    3.00 Imwitor 960 K (11) Glyceryl Stearate SE2.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    0.50 Abil 350 (44) Dimethicone

    0.15 Oxynex 2004 (20) BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate,Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate,Propylene Glycol

    B 2.00 Glycerin 87% (20) Glycerin

    3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.20 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    1.00 D-.Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

    q.s. Preservative65.55 Water dem. Aqua

    C 0.30 Carbopol 940 (6) Carbomer

    8.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    D 0.30 TriethanolamineCare

    (1) Triethanolamine

    E 1.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    3.00 Aloe Vera Lipo-Quinone Extract

    (51) Aloe Barbadensis Extract

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C. Stir phase B into phase A whilsthomogenizing and continue homogenizing fora while. Mix phase C, stir it into phase A+B,neutralize with phase D and homogenizeagain. Cool to about 40C, add phase E andhomogenize again.

    Properties: Viscosity: 5000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 7.0

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    Vitamin rich body lotion No. 62/00091

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    0.10 Phytantriol Phytantriol

    8.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    6.00 Grape Seed Oil Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil3.00 Imwitor 960 K (11) Glyceryl Stearate SE

    2.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    0.50 Abil 350 (44) Dimethicone

    0.15 Oxynex 2004 (20) BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate,Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate,Propylene Glycol

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    1.00 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

    0.20 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    2.00 Glycerin 87% (20) Glycerin

    q.s. Preservative63.35 Water dem. Aqua

    0.30 Carbopol 940 (6) Carbomer

    C 0.30 TriethanolamineCare

    (1) Triethanolamine

    D 0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    5.00 Water dem. Aqua

    0.50 Thermoplex (23) Soluble Collagen, Glycerin

    E 0.40 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C.Stir phase B into phase A whilst homogenizeand continue homogenizing for a while.Stir in phase C and rehomogenize.Cool to about 40C, add phases D and E andhomogenize again.

    Properties: Viscosity: 11000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 6.5

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    Lotion with 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phoshate No. 51/00053

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    5.00 Isopropyl Myristate (27) Isopropyl Myristate

    5.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    2.00 TeCero Wax 1030K

    (73) Microcrystal line Wax

    0.50 Bees Wax 3044PH

    (73) Bees Wax

    0.50 Cetiol SB 45 (27) Butyrospermum Parkii (SheaButter)

    2.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil

    10.00 Paraffin Oil Mineral Oil

    B 5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    q.s. Preservative

    51.00 Water dem. Aqua

    C 3.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    10.00 Water dem. Aqua

    D q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about85C. Stir phase B into phase A whilsthomogenizing and continue homogenizing fora while. Cool to about 40C, add phases Cand D and homogenize again.

    Properties: Viscosity: 6500 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+

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    Retinol cream No. 62/00077

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    4.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    10.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    3.00 Cutina GMS (44) Glyceryl Stearate

    5.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    B 5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.20 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    67.30 Water dem. Aqua

    C 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine, Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    1.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phaseC and homogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion andthe filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen

    Properties: Viscosity: 20000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 7.4

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    Night care cream with ACE No. 62/00098

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    4.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    10.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    3.00 Cutina GMS (27) Glyceryl Stearate

    5.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    B 5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    67.40 Water dem. Aqua

    C 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine, Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    0.50 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    0.50 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C.Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize.Cool to about 40C, add phase C andhomogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion andthe filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 11000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 7.8

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    Enriched night care cream with Retinol No. 62/00059

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    10.00 Paraffin Oil Mineral Oil

    3.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    5.00 Miglyol 812 (11) Caprylic/Capric Trigylyceride

    2.00 Elfacos ST 9 (2) PEG-45/Dodecyl GlycolCopolymer

    5.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil

    1.00 Claytone XL (148) Quaternium-18 Bentonite

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    58.90 Water dem. Aqua

    C 5.00 Water dem. Aqua0.50 Sodium Ascorbyl

    Phosphate(1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    D 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine, Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C. Stir phase B into phase A whilsthomogenizing. Cool to about 40C, addphases C and D and homogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion and

    the filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 11000 mPasHaake Viscotester VT-02

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    Retinol night care cream No. 62/00090

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    10.00 Paraffin Oil Mineral Oil

    3.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    5.00 Miglyol 812 (11) Caprylic/Capric Trigylyceride

    5.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil

    2.00 Elfacos ST 9 (2) PEG-45/Dodecyl GlycolCopolymer

    1.00 Claytone XL (148) Quaternium-18 Bentonite

    0.10 BHT (20) BHT

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    59.00 Water dem. AquaC 5.00 Water dem. Aqua

    0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    D 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine, Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    0.10 Vitamine E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about 80C.Stir phase B into phase A and homogenize.Cool to about 40C, add phases C and D and

    homogenize again.Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion and the filling into

    appropriate containers in the absence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 11000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+

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    Day care cream with ACE No. 62/00096

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    4.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    10.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    3.00 Cutina GMS (27) Glyceryl Stearate

    5.00 Vaseline Petrolatum

    B 5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    68.10 Water dem. Aqua

    C 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    0.10 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about80C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phaseC and homogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion andthe filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 15400 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 7.4

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    Face mask with Retinol No. 62/00093

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 2.00 CremophorA 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

    2.00 CremophorA 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

    6.00 Cutina GMS (27) Glyceryl Stearate

    1.00 Lanette 16 (27) Cetyl Alcohol

    4.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

    5.00 LuvitolEHO (1) Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

    B 5.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    3.00 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

    6.00 Bolus Alba (20) Kaolin

    q.s. Preservative

    57.70 Water dem. Aqua

    C 1.00 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    0.10 BHT (20) BHT 0.10 Retinol 50 C (1) Retinol, Polysorbate 20

    1.00 Bisabolol rac. (1) Bisabolol

    q.s. Perfume

    D 5.00 ExtraponHamamelis

    (212) Water, Ethoxydiglykol, PropyleneGlycol, Glucose, Butylene Glycol,Witch Hazel Extract

    1.00 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about85C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phasesC and D whilst homogenizing, then cool toroom temperature whilst stirring.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion andthe filling into appropriate containers in theabsence of oxygen.

    Properties: Viscosity: 39000 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 7.0

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    Day care cream with ACE No. 62/00094

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 6.00 CremophorWO 7 (1) PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    10.00 Paraffin Oil Mineral Oil

    3.00 Vaseline Petrolactum

    5.00 Miglyol 812 (11) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

    2.00 Elfacos ST 9 (2) PEG-45/Dodecyl GlycolCopolymer

    5.00 Jojoba Oil Jojoba (Buxux Chinensis) Oil

    1.00 Claytone XL (148) Quaternium-18 Bentonite

    B 3.00 1,2-PropyleneGlycol Care

    (1) Propylene Glycol

    0.10 EdetaBD (1) Disodium EDTA

    q.s. Preservative

    64.00 Water dem. Aqua

    C 0.50 Retinol 10 S (1) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil,Retinol

    0.10 BHT (20) BHT

    0.20 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    0.10 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    q.s. Perfume

    Production: Heat phases A and B separately to about85C. Stir phase B into phase A andhomogenize. Cool to about 40C, add phaseC and homogenize again.

    Recommendation: Do the production of the emulsion andthe filling into appropriate containers in the

    absence of oxygen.Properties: Viscosity: 24100 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+

    Shampoo with vitamins No. 08/00596

    % Ingredients Supplier INCI name

    A 10.00 Rewopol SB FA 30 (44) Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate

    10.00 Tego Betain L 7 (44) Cocamidopropyl Betaine

    40.00 Texapon NSO (27) Sodium Laureth Sulfate

    0.50 Vitamin E Acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate

    0.20 Phytantriol Phytantriol

    q.s. Perfume

    2.00 CremophorCO40

    (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated CastorOil

    B 30.30 Water dem. Aqua

    0.50 Sodium AscorbylPhosphate

    (1) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

    3.00 Sodium Chloride (20) Sodium Chloride

    1.00 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

    2.50 LuviquatFC 550 (1) Polyquaternium-16

    Production: Weigh out the components of phase Aand mix them. Add the components of

    phase B one after another and mix until ahomogeneous solution is obtained.Set pH value with citric acid as desired.

    Properties: Viscosity: 2900 mPas Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 6.1

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    Suppliers 1. BASF Aktiengesellschaft,67056 Ludwigshafen, GermanyTel.: (0621) 60-0Telefax: 0621) 60-42525

    2. Akzo Nobel Surface Chemicals B.V.Stationsplein 43000 AE Amersfoort

    The NetherlandsP.O. Box: 247Phone: +31-33-4076444Fax: +31-33-4676159www.akzonobel.com

    3. Amerchol Corporation136 Talmadge RoadNJ 088184051 Edison, USAP.O. Box: 4051; NJ 08818-4051 EdisonPhone: (908) 248-6000Fax: (908) 287-4186

    6. Noveon, Inc.

    a wholly owned subsidiary of the Lubrizol Corporation

    9911 Brecksville RoadOH 44141-3287 Cleveland; USA

    Phone: (216) 447-5000

    1-(800) 331-1144

    Fax: (216) 447-5250

    11. Sasol Germany GmbH - Witten

    Arthur-Imhausen-Str. 92

    58453 Witten/Ruhr; Germany

    P.O. Box: 1269; 584490; Witten/Ruhr

    Phone: +49-2302-925-537

    Fax: 49-2302-925-358

    16. Dow Corning CorporationP.O. Box 17 67, Dept. 2291 Midland. Michigan 48686-0994, USA

    Tel.: +1-517-496-6000

    Fax: +1-517-496-5324

    20. Merck KGaA

    Frankfurter Strae 250

    4119 Darmstadt; Germany

    P.O. Box: 64293

    Phone: 49 6151 72-7869

    Fax: 49 6151 728333

    www.merck.com

    23. GfN Herstellung von Naturextrakten GmbH

    Straburg 1669483 Wald-Michelbach, GermanyPhone: 06207/7007Fax: 06207/1276

    27. Cognis Deutschland GmbH - Care Chemicals

    Henkelstrae 67

    40191 Dsseldorf-Holthausen; Germany

    P.O. Box: 130164; 40551 Dsseldorf-Holthausen

    Phone: 0211/7940-2289

    Fax: 0211/798-2016

    www.cognis.com

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    44. Th. Goldschmitdt AG / Degussa Care Chemicals

    Goldschmidtstrae 100

    45127 Essen; Germany

    P.O. Box: 45116 Essen

    Phone: 0201/173-01

    Fax: 0201/173-3000

    www.goldschmidt.com

    51. Hans Rahn GmbHBahnhofstr. 2463457 Groauheim Stadt Hanau, GermanyPhone 06101/956633

    73. Tromm GmbH, Wachs- und Ceresin-FabrikenFeuerstrae 7-1750735 Kln (Weidenpesch), GermanyP.O. Box: 620168, 50694 KlnPhone: 0221/974552-0Fax: 0221/974552-30

    148. Southern Clay Products, Inc.

    1212 Church StreetTX 78629 Gonzales; USAP.O. Box: 44Phone: (210) 672-2891Fax: (210) 672-3650 (210) 672-3081

    212. Symrise GmbH & Co. KGMhlenfeldstrae 137603 Holzminden, GermanyP.O. Box: 1253, 37601 Holzmindenwww.symrise.com

    Note While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein arepresented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for yourguidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use,we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a productfor your particular purpose prior to use.NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDINGWARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULARPURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS,OR THAT DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGINGTHE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALLTHE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BECONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.Further, you expressly understand and agree that the descriptions, design, dataand information furnished by BASF hereunder are given gratis and BASF assumes

    no obligation or liability for the description, designs, data and informationgiven or results obtained, all such being given and accepted at your risk.

    July 2005