basic kit beer instructions  

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BASIC KIT BEER INSTRUCTIONS  (printer friendly)  If yo u follow these si mp le in st ructions yo u can become a n expe rt brewer at your first attem pt. These instructions ar e designed to produce 25L of great home brew. 1. terilise your !ermenter by adding 5 teaspoons of sodium metabisulphi te and fillin g it with cold water. "llow to stand for 2 hours# then empty and turn upside down to drain. DO NOT RINSE. 2. "dd $%1 & li tres of ho t wa ter (1' fill barrel) and stir in the beer mix and up to 1 g of sugar# dextrose or malt until dissol*ed. (1.5+g gi*es ,-# 1+g gi*es 5- alcohol# 5&&g gi*es -# no sugar gi*es -). The water need not be boiling/ hot water from the tap will do. . To p up w ith cold water till the barrel is ' fu ll. Check that the temperature is below ! "e# C the$ spri$kle the co$te$ts o% the &east packet o$ top o% the brew.   tirring the ye ast is optional. . 0lose the lid firmly a nd fit the air loc+# ensuri ng it contains about 1&%15mm of water. !ermentation should commence within 12 hours. If there is no

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bubbling through the air loc+ within this timeremo*e the lid and loo+ for froth on the surfaceof the brew. If there is froth on the surface this

indicates that fermentation has started and youdont ha*e an air tight seal on the barrel. " littleaseline on the rim of the barrel will gi*e a betterseal without o*er tightening.

5. eep in a warm place or use an immersion or beltheater to maintain a constant temperature (2&%2

deg 0 is ideal). Allow to %erme$t %or "a&s'the$ top up to the bottom o% the threa" i$ the

$eck with col" water' thus minimising theremaining air gap. It is important to top upbe%ore  fermentation has ended so that theremaining air space is filled with carbon dioxide.If late topping up add a tablespoon of sugar topromote further fermentation.

,. 3eseal the lid and allow to ferment right out. Ifusing a heater turn it off after a further 2 daysfermentation. To a*oid damage to immersionheaters ma+e sure the heater is turned off each

time you remo*e it from the fermenter.4. hen bubbling slows down ta+e a hydrometer

reading. If using dextrose the reading should be1&&5# with halfnhalf it will be 1&1& and with maltit should be 1&15%1&2&. " stable end point (thesame reading o*er 2% days) is essential to

pre*ent o*er gassed beer. 6o not bottle in lessthan 4 days. Lea*ing the beer in the fermenter

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for 1&%1 days in total will gi*e a much clearerbeer with less sediment in the bottle. The additionof beer finings will shorten the time in the barrel

to 4 days.

$. To sterilise your bottles# ma+e sure they areclean# add 1' of a teaspoon of sodiummetabisulphite# fill with cold water and let themstand for 2 hours. 6rain the solution out. It isnot necessary to rinse the bottles out after

sterilising.

7. To each sterilised bottle add 1 teaspoon of sugarthen fill to within 5%& mm of the top and fit acrown seal. If using stubbies add only 1'2 ateaspoon of sugar.

1&. tore the bottles in a warm place for about awee+# then cellar in a cool# dar+ place.

11. Lea*e to mature for about wee+s. 3emember#howe*er# that home brewed beers and stouts donot reach their best until they ha*e been bottledfor about months# so try and get a stoc+ set

aside.

If you ha*e any difficulty with your brewing call in# ringor e%mail as we will be only too happy to help. e ha*ethe experience and +nowledge# plus the 8ualityproducts to help you ma+e 9 good beers better9.

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DIET BEER

"ny +it beers can be made into low carbohydrate

beers. There is an en<yme called diatose en<yme whichcon*erts some of the complex malt chains in the can ofmix into simple# fermentable sugars. ("mylo && isused to increase the a*ailability of sugars in beerfermentation. It allows for the production of highalcohol beers and can also produce low carbohydrate

diabetic beer with increased alcohol strength. "mylo&& is an amyloglucosidease preparation produced from"spergillus niger.)

=any people with diabetes# in consultation with theirdoctor# can use this en<yme when ma+ing theirfa*ourite batch of beer. The resultant beer is drier

and slightly more alcoholic. :f course we can put lessmalt or dextrose to +eep the beer at 5-

"ny can of beer mix

45&g 6extrose'malt (opptional)

+it yeast

5ml of diatose en<yme

=a+e the beer as per T>? instructions# To producediet beer use 5ml ' 25 litres of wort. "dd @ust beforethe yeast. !erment in the normal way.

!.A. 1&&& (more if using malt) B 5- alcohol Co sugargi*es .5- alcohol

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BASIC E(TRACT INSTRUCTIONS

(printer friendly *ersion)

The easiest way to explain how to ma+e an extractbeer is to use a recipe. The reason for this is eachrecipes timing *aries greatly depending on the style#hops used# when they are added# boil time etc. "n

example of this difference is recipe D may call for theuse of a single hop simmered for 5 minutes onlywhereas recipe E calls for three different hops eachof which is added progressi*ely through the boil. F*enthough the timings differ the basics still remain thesame and they areG%

1. ?oil the malt and selected grains with the hops inD amount of water.

2. train the li8uid into the fermenter using morehot water to wash the grains and hops.

. !erment

. ?ottle.

It is best to boil the hops with the dried malt or li8uidextract because the extraction of the hops bitternessand fla*our is more integrated. >owe*er# if you dontha*e a pot big enough you can get away without doing

this.

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E(A)*+E,-

1.45+g amber malt extract

,5&g dextrose

&g ;ride :f 3ingwood hops

1 tsp irish moss

H tsp epsom salts

1 p+t yeast

)ETOD,-

1. ?ring ,L water to the boil.

2. "dd the malt extract# half the hops and the

epsom salts.

. ?oil for 1 hour.

. "dd the rest of the hops and the irish moss.

5. ?oil for a further H hour.

,. "dd the dextrose to the fermenter and strain thewort into the fermenter. 3inse with a further Lof hot water.

4. 0ool the wort to 20. "dd the yeast.

$. !erment and condition as per T.>.?..

instructions.

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DRAU/T BEER DIS*ENSIN/

S0STE)

(;rinter !riendly ersion)

The basic system comprises a 2L stainless steel +eg#;luto beer gun# gas regulator plus all lines and clic+%on

fittings. ?y using this system it is possible to drin+ thebeer days after +egging. ith multiple +egs it willdo away completely with the chore of bottling. If#howe*er# bottling is still re8uired# then that facilitycan be added# ma+ing the bottling of sediment%freedrin+s possible. It also enables the ma+ing of spar+lingwines and carbonated soft drin+s.

The system operates from standard 6 si<e 0:2cylinders (gas code &$2) or larger. The a*erage home%brewer can expect a cylinder to last ,%12 months. Thegas cylinders are not supplied with the basic systembut can be obtained from ?.:.0.

CF !L">  e are now able to stoc+ the,.$g 0: aluminum cylinders. 0ost is J7supplied full KKKKK It will be up to you to get thempressure tested e*ery 12 years frommanufacture date or ser*ice date (steelcylinders are older and re8uire a ser*ice e*ery 5

 years). This is great news. Co longer will we

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ha*e to pay the J12& rental from ?.:.0KKKKKKKThese cylinders will pay for themsel*es in

 years.

=y new mate# 6a*id# at afety and !ireF8uipment# phone ,2427$&&# 11& Aormanston 3d#6erwent ;ar+ is happy to fill them for J,.5&including AT. >e is also in charge of conductingthe pressure test for a cost of about J,&%4&.

www.safteyandfire.com.au

 

The retail price of the basic system is J&# itemisedas follows.

CF tainless steel +eg 2L J17&

3egulator J1&5.&&

;luto beer gun J15.&&

Lines B fittings J&.&&

The following items are also a*ailableG

CF tainless steel +eg 12L J155

?ar tap designed to fit into refrigerator door atJ15.&&

0ounter pressure bottle filler used for J15& fully setup with all lines.

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!ilter with &.5 micron bac+%washable element at J24&

 

USE O3 *OST-)I( C0+INDERS 3OR O)E BRE4.

To clea$ ke#,

ash well with *ery hot water and detergent. Ifnecessary# use eg 0leaner or similar chlorine basedcleaner'steriliser and rinse with water. 6ont use

sodium metabisulphite. eal lid# connect gas and flushlines and beer tap with last of water. Turn gas off atcylinder and lift gas relief *al*e on +eg.

To %ill ke#,

0arefully siphon cleared beer into +eg. (;lease feel

free to as+ what else can be put in the +egs % we*ehad great results with ginger beer and rum or e*ensoft drin+s for the +ids). "*oid excessi*e splashingand frothing. !ill to within 5%4 cm of the opening# fitlid# connect gas and pressurise to 2&& +;a (& psi.).Lift pressure relief *al*e briefly to purge air from+eg. 3efrigerate for to 5 days lea*ing the gas

connected at 2&& +;a (& psi.). The colder the beer atthis stage# the 8uic+er it will gas up. ?eer# or otherproduct is now ready to be dispensed.

"n alternate and 8uic+er method of conditioning beeris to pressurise to 1&& +;a (15 psi)# purge air from tan+then increase pressure to && +;a (5 psi). Turn gas

off and sha+e till gauge reads 1&& +;a (15 psi). Turn

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gas bac+ on to restore pressure to && +;a (5 psi).eep repeating this step until the gauge needle onlyfalls *ery slowly. 3e%pressurise to && +;a (5 psi)#

remo*e from gas and chill for 2 hours.

To "ispe$se %rom ke#,

Turn gas off at bottle# turn regulator anti%cloc+wise tooff and lift pressure relief *al*e to reduce pressure in+eg. Turn gas bac+ on and ad@ust regulator until

pressure reaches 5&%4& +;a ($%1& psi.). 0onnect beerline and pour. FC:EK

Importa$t poi$ts to remember,

Immediately +eg is empty# repeat first paragraph toclean +eg and lines.

Eou can age the beer# but only after it is fully gassed.

:nly put fully cleared beer into your +eg. Mse offinings before +egging is recommended.

0hec+ all connections regularly for lea+s by s8uirting awea+ solution of detergent o*er posts and lid or

immersing in water.

Trouble shooti$#,?eer flat and too frothy.  :*ergassed# release all pressure using the safety *al*e inthe lid. Aently roc+ the +eg to release excessi*e beergas until the pouring impro*es.?eer pours too fast. ?leed the tan+ and bac+ off the regulator pressure to

5&%4& +;a ($%1& psi.) or less.

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?eer is flat or no head.  3epeat the carbonationprocess. 0hec+ +eg orings by s8uirting a wea+detergent solution on all the points.

?eer wont pour.  0hec+ the 0:  is turned on. ?ottlemay be empty. ?eer could be fro<en.

eg empties too fast.  low down drin+ing habits.6ecrease social circle. =a+e more beer....

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O4 TO READ A 0DRO)ETER

(;rinter !riendly ersion)

To use a hydrometer correctly# place it in the beer or

wine to be tested. Fither lift or spin the hydrometerto dislodge any gas bubbles that may ha*e gathered onit then allow it to settle and float freely. Ta+e areading directly from the scale at the surface of theli8uid.

The sole use of the hydrometer is to show the specific

gra*ity (.A.) or 9thic+ness9 of any li8uid. !or the wineor beer ma+er it shows the concentration of sugar insolution. >owe*er# it can also indicate theconcentration of alcohol in a beer. ?y ta+ing a readingat the start of fermentation and another at the endand di*iding the difference by 4., it will show thealcohol produced. !or example# a start reading of

1&5& and an end reading of 1&&5 will gi*e a difference

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of 5. 6i*iding this by 4., will gi*e an alcohol contentof ,.1- by *olume. ith the addition of 1 teaspoon ofsugar to your beer bottles your alcohol content will

increase by &.- for a total of ,.-.

It is easiest to store the hydrometer in a chlorinesolution in the container it came in. Cot many of usha*e the time to sterilise it for 2 hours and use it for2 secondsKK ?y storing it this way all you need to do isrinse it under the tap# place it in the brew# ta+e the

reading and put it bac+ in the container. Ta+es lessthan & seconds... impleKKKKK

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BU+K 3ER)ENTER *RI)IN/

(;rinter ersion)

Eou can use the bul+ priming method to gas up yourbeer true to the style that you are ma+ing# egG "?ritish "le or :< ?eers. This form of bul+ priming iseasier to control the amount of sugar added to thebeer to produce the re8uired carbonation. The

re8uired amount of priming sugar is added to thefermenter# after the beer has been rac+ed to remo*ethe unwanted sediment# in grams per litre. Thefollowing is a basic list of some styles of beer and theamount of sugar to add so that you achie*e there8uired amount of gas in your beer.The benefits of

bul+ priming areG % Eou can be certain that all of yourbottles are primed with the appropriate amount of

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sugar % this is great for all the *aried bottles around atthe moment ie. 4&&# 45& and $&&ml long nec+s and &#5 and 45ml stubbies. % Eou can choose the type of

sugar to prime with ie. malt# dextrose or honey. %;riming is more accurate by weight than measure. %Eou a*oid the frothing that can occur when bottling.

Fnglish "lesG% 2.5%g'L or ,2.5%45g'25L

toutG% .2%.4g'L or1&5%114.5g'25L

"ustralian ?eersG% 4.2%$g'L or 1$&%2&&g'25L

Furopean LagerG% 5.5%,g'L or14.5%15&g'25L

0iderG% 1&%15g'L or 25&%45g'25L

C:TF ... 0hampagneG% 2&%2g'L or 5&&%,&&g'25L

:ne thing to do during this priming process is to ma+esure you +eep stirring the beer to ma+e sure you +eepthe sugar mixed thoroughly.

=ethod % 6issol*e the re8uired sugar in 1&&ml boilingwater and put in a sterilised fermenter. 3un the

finished# clear beer into the barrel and proceed withbottling. "s it is a measured dose# it will carbonate thebeer e*enly so you can use any si<e bottle you li+e.

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0DRO)ETER STORA/E

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(;rinter friendly *ersion)

hen the hydrometer is not in use +eep the tube full

of a decent chlorine solution. hen you want to use it you @ust rinse off the chlorine# use it# then put it bac+in the chlorine solution and then it is sterilised andready to use again next time.

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C+EARIN/ BEER4hirl%loc T  % ettle fining tablet made from red

seaweed extracts % carageenan. "ids in impro*ingseparation of wort suspended solids and allows agreater *olume of wort reco*ery by forming a compact#cohesi*e trub. "lso aids in beer clarity and stability by

impro*ing the remo*al of proteins and gums. "ddhirlfloc tablets directly to the +ettle# 1& mins beforethe end of the boil at the rate of 2 tablets'hL (&.5tablets per 25L)

Beer %i$i$#s % ?iofine ;17% isinglass fining product.

"ids in speeding up clarification by acceleratingsedimentation of yeast and other insoluble materialinto a compact layer at the bottom of the fermenter.It does this by electrostatically. ?iofine ;17 impro*esbeer stabilisation and prolongs shelf life. It increasesfiltration rate of final beer and assists in o*erallprocess optimisation.

Clear cool % !or chillproofing beer# ;rofix 1&&L

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eliminates chill ha<e and impro*es shelf life. ;rofix1&&L is a purified papain extract from the fruit of0arica papaya

Time % particles will settle out in beer according to

to+es Law.  to+es Law predicts the settling*elocity of a sphere in a fluid. Settli$# 5elocit& 6

789:De$sit& o% sphere - De$sit& o% %lui";

:ra"iussphere; # <7 =iscosit& o% sphere

"3CICA % you can only lea*e the beer in the barrelfor long periods pro*idied the fermenter is full i.e. noair space. Fither top up your barrel or but somethingsterlised in ("rchimedes ;rinciple) to displace the air.

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GET A BETTER HEAD ON YOUR BEER  

If the surface tension is disrupted or wea+ on thebeer# the froth will not hold.The tension is affectedby... % ;oor cleanliness with barrel or bottles % a scumwill de*elop on the surface of e8uipment and needs tobe remo*ed# see below for proper cleaning and

sterilising. % Eoung beers that ha*e only been in thebottles for 2 wee+s will ha*e big bubbles that get tothe surface and pop. "s the beer ages the bubblesbecome finer (the 0: is dissol*ing in the beer) and asthey rise they hold and remain. The following bubblesrise and replace any that pop. The laces of ?russels

will cling to the glass all the way through. % If the beeris left in the fermenter for too long after

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fermentation is finished on the hydrometer# the air inthe top of the barrel will allow an oxidation to occurand this will change the beer and wea+en the head

retention. e recommend eliminating the airspace bytopping up or filling the *oid with a sterilised containerand allowing the beer to clear naturally. % Msing properbrewing sugars li+e malt and dextrose or e*enmaltodextrins will impro*e the surface tension. "*oidusing white sugar at all costsKK

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C+EANIN/ AND STERI+ISIN/

0leaning3emo*al of oils# dirt and crap li+e that. If you dont dothis before you sanitise then bugs can find a place tohide from the sanitiser.anitising3educing unwanted micro%organisms to unnoticablele*els.:6IM= =FT"?IML;>ITF is the preferred agentfor sterilising e8uipment as it is cheaper. "fter

cleaning your e8uipment you can sterilise by using oneteaspoonful per 5 litres and soa+ing for 2 hours. Thesolution does not +eep. 6rain well# but do not rinse.

T3I%:6IM= ;>:;>"TF (?:TTLF 0LF"CF3) is acaustic cleaner. =ix 1' of a cup in litres of hotwater and wash bottles or barrels. 3inse well.

tubborn stains may re8uire soa+ing for 2 hours. e

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recommend wearing of rubber glo*es while using thisproduct.

:6IM= 6I0>L:3I:0E"CM3"TF N T3I%:6IM=;>:;>"TF (FA 0LF"CF3) is a cleaner andsteriliser in one. Mse 1%2 teaspoons in 5 litres of coldwater to clean# sterilise and deodorise barrels. Lea*efor 1&%2& mins then rinse well.

:6IM= >E;:0>L:3ITF is a commercial brewery

descaler'steriliser for the remo*al of all yeast films#moulds etc. !:3 MF# dilute 5&ml to 5&&ml withwater. "dd a little of this solution to the bottles or*essels and sha+e around for a few seconds or until anyfilm is remo*ed. 3inse with hot or cold water. Thesolution may be used repeatedly until grosslycontaminated or the chlorine smell has diminished.

?3F0LF"C is a non toxic colloidal cleaner. Themicelles attac+ dirt and push it into the water# ma+ingit easy to wash away. >ea*y cleaning @obs no dilutionre8uired. =oderate cleaning @obs 1 part brewclean to parts water. Light cleaning @obs 1 part brewclean to ,parts water. et the surfaces with brewclean# agitate

the product on the surface by wiping# rubbing andsha+ing as re8uired. "llow to sit then rinse clean.

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O4 TO BE AN UNSUCCESS3U+

BRE4ER>

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("dapted from an article by "ndrew 0hislett...)

1. Ignore tri*ial things li+e hygiene and sterilisation.

This is great for producing exotic tastes andsmells. It also introduces the surprise elementinto your beers. Eou will not ha*e any free loaderscoming around and drin+ing your beer.

2. Mse lots of household sugar in your beer becauseit is so much cheaper than malt and gi*es you that

wonderful cidery fla*our. Ignore the ad*ice that yeast does a much 8uic+er and cleaner @ob withdextrose. "*oid using malt extract so youmaintain that watery thin texture to your beer.

. Mse out of date tins with left o*er bread yeast toget that sweet syrupy taste combined with a

mellow metal taint. Fxcellent with 0hinese food.

. ?ottle your beer when the bubbling stops. Ce*ere*er use the hydrometerKKK This might ta+e ,wee+s or more. !orget ad*ice on minimising theairspace as that white waxy film on the top ofbeer adds to the musty cardboardy character you

de*elop from all that oxygen.

5. tore your bottles in the garden shed. The heatfrom the tin shed gi*es the beer the addedbitterness or bite that gets you in the bac+ of thethroat. Fxcellent for 8uenching the thirst aftermowing the lawn.

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,. !orget that the lac+ of bubbling may be caused bya bad seal on your barrel or a cold brew room."ssume that the brew has not wor+ed because

there was no bubbling and throw it out. Eeast canferment your beer in your garage in inter e*enwhen your car wont start. 3elish the thoughtthat exploding bottles will gi*e you theopportunity to clean the garage floor comeummer.

4. !orget that the bottles need to be +ept warm for2% wee+s. If your beer is flat in the bottle# openthem and put another teaspoon of sugar in eachbottle. ?esides# the extra sugar will ma+e it morealcoholic and the extra carbonation will only blowup some of the bottles. The danger element inopening the rest of the bottles o*er the sin+ willbe worth it for the cup of fi<<y beer left in thebottle.

"ssume master brewer status after two batches andignore all instructions from the home brew shop# whatwould they +nowKKKK