Jewelry

A supplement to Bead&Button magazinewww.BeadAndButton.com618308 2014

KUMIHIMOBeaded

INSIDE!patterns

for a basic8-cord round

braid

2-hole beads pearls & seed beads multibead soutache

Mix materials & techniques for4 variations on this signature style!

Jewelry makers have fallen in love with the versatility

of kumihimo, the ancient Japanese fiber technique.

Quick to work up and easy to master, kumihimo can

be used with a blend of techniques and materials for

many variations on this signature style.

Brush up on the basics for this trendy technique (p. 3),

then decide which direction to go with your kumihimo.

Monica Han uses pearls to keep it classic (p. 6),

Yvonne Rosania Reavis stays on trend with Twin beads

(p. 8), Michelle Heim and Jane Danley Cruz braid a

bevy of beads (p. 10), and Sonia Corbin-Davis adds

a new dimension with soutache (p. 12).

Whatever your inspiration, were sure youll go crazy

for kumihimo!

Contents

Kumihimo Cool

Technique Workshop ....................................3Intro to kumihimo

Basic Kumihimo with Beads .........................6The royal treatment

Kumihimo with Two-Hole Beads ...................8Twice as nice

Multibead Kumihimo .................................. 10Get your group on

Flat Kumihimo and Soutache .................... 12New dimensions

Find more beading basicson p. 78 of the December

issue of Bead&Button or visit www.BeadAndButton.com/Basics.

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TECHNIQUE WORKSHOP

Intro to kumihimo

Kumihimo is the ancient Japanese art of braiding. Traditionally done with silk, kumihimo can be done with any of the wide array of fibers now available, resulting in gorgeous necklaces, bracelets, and other accessories. Fibers of different thicknesses or textures can be combined for interesting effects.

Including beads in a kumihimo braid creates another dimension. The beads can be added ran-domly as embellishments, or continuously, resulting in beaded ropes that can vary greatly in appearance, depending upon how you add them.

If you work the beaded

strands as though they were regular cords, you get a sequence of loops that spiral around the rope, as in the bracelet shown above. If the beads are slid into place one at a time, the result is a more solid-looking rope with the beads nestled together, as seen in the six pattern options on p. 4. For those who like the look of bead crochet but dont enjoy the process, kumihimo is a great alternative.

Traditionally, kumihimo is done on a large wooden stand called a marudai (photo a). These days, small foam or plastic disks with slots around the perimeter and a hole in the middle (photo b) allow the same

An easy-to-learn art offers plenty of design options once you learn the basics.

by Julia Gerlach

Difficulty rating

Julia Gerlach is the editor of Bead&Button. Contact her at jgerlach@beadandbutton.com.

Materialsbasic kumihimo bracelet or necklace beads to fit on cord 4 yd. (3.7 m) or more cord

such as C-Lon, Conso, YLI Jeans, Tuff-Cord, silk, hemp, yarn, etc.

6 in. (15 cm) 20-gauge wire 2 cones or large-hole beads clasp Big Eye needle (if using beads) E6000 adhesive marudai stand or round kumihimo

disk with 8 bobbins and weight or large binder clip

chainnose pliers roundnose pliers wire cutters

BasicsAttaching a stop beadTying a square knotMaking a wrapped loop

types of braids to be made less expensively. The handheld disks are either round or square and are lightweight and portable. Each braiding movement

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rotate disk 90

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pattern to go with photo g

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rotate disk 90

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rotate disk 90

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rotate disk 90

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is made individually on a disk, while two movements can be made at a time on a freestanding marudai.

Kumihimo offers hundreds of pattern possibilities. Spirals, stripes, flowers, diamonds, and other designs can be achieved by changing the number of cords, the bead order, and the movements sequence and direction.

A kumihimo pattern is usually illustrated as a large circle representing the maru-dai or disk, surrounded by small circles, representing the cords. The movements required to make the braid are shown in subsequent drawings, usually with lines or arrows showing where the next cord or cords are supposed to go.

Complex braids can be made with 48 or more cords, but its best to get acquainted with kumihimo by learning the eight-cord round braid.

Varying bead order and colors can offer a multitude of design possibilities. Photos ch show six different looks that are possible with the bead-at-a-time method on an eight-cord braid.

Setup1 Cut eight pieces of cord about three times the desired finished length of the braid you want to make. Use any cord that will accommodate your beads.2 Gather the cords together, and tie an overhand knot about 1 in. (2.5 cm) from the end of the cords.

The illustrations show the setup used to achieve the pattern.

3 Feed the knot through the center hole of the kumihimo disk from front to back, and attach a weight or binder clip to secure.4 Use a Big Eye needle to string beads on each cord according to the desired pattern. General guidelines for stringing beads: If youre using the bead-at-a-time method, string each cord with enough beads to equal the desired finished length of the braid. If you string too few or too many, you can remove beads or string more later on. If youre using the beaded

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tipIf you need to take a break while braiding, set your work down when there are three cords at the bottom of the disk. This way, youll always know at what point in the sequence you stopped.

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rotate disk 90

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strands method, string each cord with enough beads to equal about one-and-a-half times the desired finished length of the braid. 5 Wind each beaded cord onto a bobbin (photo i), leaving about 4 in. (10 cm) of cord free between the knot and the bobbin. 6 Align the kumihimo disk so you have a dot at the top and at the bottom. 7 Arrange two cords so that one goes in the slot to the left of the top dot and the other end goes in the slot to the right of the top dot. 8 Rotate the disk 90 degrees, and repeat step 7 with two more cords. Repeat twice more so you have two cords flanking each dot. Beaded strands Attach a stop bead and snug it up to the beads. 1 Bring the top-right cord down, and place it to the right of the bottom-right cord (figure 1). Bring the bottom-

left cord up, and place it to the left of the top-left cord (figure 2). Rotate the disk 90 degrees (figure 3).2 Repeat step 1 with the two cords that are now in the top-right and bottom- left positions (figure 4). Repeat twice more. This is one full rotation.3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the desired length braid. Dont allow any space between the beads as you braid, but if a strand begins to kink, loosen the tension by moving the stop bead a bit. Make sure the braid is being formed flush with the top of the disk. If it drops below the disk, the braid will be too loose.

Bead-at-a-time1 Work as in Beaded strands, but dont attach a stop bead; instead, slide a bead up to the braid before you move the cord. Slip the bead under the cord that crosses over the cord you

are working with (photo j), and then cross the cord as usual. 2 Repeat for the desired length braid, sliding a bead in place before making each movement. Release more thread and beads from the bobbins as needed.

FinishingThere are several ways to finish a kumihimo braid, but here is one method. Specific projects may call for a differ-ent procedure.1 When the braid is the desired length, position a 3-in. (7.6 cm) piece of 20-gauge wire at the end of your braid, and continue braiding for one full rotation, securing the wire within the braid (photo k). With two opposite pairs of cords, make

a square knot. Repeat with the remaining two pairs of cords. Dot the knots with glue, let dry, and trim close to the knots. Remove the cords from the disk.2 Wrap one end of the wire tightly around the end of the braid a few times (photo l). String a cone or large-hole bead on the wire, covering the end of the braid (photo m). String additional beads and components, if desired, and make the first half of a wrapped loop. String half of a clasp into the loop (photo n), and complete the wraps. 3 Slide a 3-in. (7.6 cm) wire into the other end of the braid, and repeat step 2 to finish. w

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 3FIGURE 2 FIGURE 4

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BASIC KUMIHIMO WITH BEADS

The royal treatmentElevate the basic kumihimo technique with pearls and metallic accents

for a bracelet that looks complex and elegant but works up quickly.

designed by Monica Han

Setup1 Cut eight 30-in. (76 cm) pieces of pearl cotton thread. Cut one piece of leather cord at least 2 in. (5 cm) lon-ger than the desired finished length of the bracelet. 2 Gather the ends of the threads, and tie an overhand knot around the leather cord about 12 in. (1.3 cm) from the

end of the cord (photo a). Feed the knot through the center hole of the kumihimo disk from front to back, and attach the weight or binder clip. Arrange the threads so there is one in each of the slots on either side of the four dots, and position the leather cord in the center as shown (photo b).

3 On each thread, use a Big Eye needle to string nine 4 mm pearls, six 5 mm pearls, and nine 4 mm pearls. String one more or fewer 4 mm pearls at each end to adjust the bracelet by 12 in. (1.3 cm).4 Snug up the beads to the edge of the kumihimo disk, and wind the ends of each thread around a bobbin.

Braid1 To work a section of braid without beads around the leather cord: Position the disk with one dot at the top. Using the basic eight-cord kumihi-mo technique, bring the top-right thread down, and place it in the slot to the right of the bottom-right thread. Bring the bottom-left thread up, and

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Difficulty rating

Monica Han has received several design awards since discovering beading in 2002 and was a Swarovski Ambassador from 2009 to 2014. She enjoys designing, teaching, and publishing her beading projects. Learn more on her website, cysdreambeads.blogspot.com, or contact her via email at mhan@dreambeads.biz.

Materialsbracelet 714 in. (18.1 cm) 48 5 mm crystal pearls

(Swarovski, gold) 144 4 mm crystal pearls

(Swarovski, light gray) 2 g 110 seed beads (Miyuki

1052, gold) 20 x 5 mm magnetic tube

clasp with glue-in ends (www.primitiveoriginals.com)

pearl cotton thread, #5 (DMC 415, pearl gray)

3 mm leather or rubber cord nylon beading thread (gold) Big Eye needle beading needle, #12 E6000 adhesive kumihimo disk with 8 bobbins

and weight or binder clip

BasicsEnding threadTying an overhand knotAttaching a stop bead

place it to the left of the top-left thread. Rotate the disk 90 degrees, and repeat this braiding pattern. Continue working kumihimo without beads until the braided section is 34 in. (1.9 cm) long (photo c), releasing more thread from the bobbins as needed.2 To start incorporating beads, work in basic eight-cord kumihimo as in step 1. As you move each thread, slide a pearl up to the braid, and tuck it under the thread that crosses over the one the pearl is on. Continue working in kumihimo, adding a pearl with each movement (photo d), until all the pearls have been added.3 Work in kumihimo without beads as in step 1 until the braided section is 34 in. (1.9 cm) long. 4 Remove the threads from the disk, and gather them together. Tie an overhand knot around the leather cord

close to the end of the braid. Trim any excess cord and thread to 1 in. (2.5 cm) past the pearl section.

Embellishment1 Thread a beading needle on 1 yd. (.9 m) of nylon beading thread, and attach a stop bead leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through an end 5 mm pearl, exiting next to a 4 mm pearl. 2 Pick up three 110 seed beads. Working to the left, find the thread at the bottom of the next 5 mm pearl, and sew under it from left to right so your working thread is going around the thread the pearl is on (photo e). 3 Repeat step 2, working around the 5-mm pearl section in a spiral. When you reach the other end of the bracelet, attach a stop bead.4 Repeat steps 13 to fill in the empty spiral on the 5-mm pearl section.

5 Remove the stop beads, and end the threads.

Clasp1 Apply glue to the overhand knots on each end of the bracelet and the braid next to it. After the glue has dried completely, cut the excess thread between the over-hand knot and the braid, removing the knots from the bracelet.2 Measure the depth of each clasp opening (they may be different sizes), and trim the braid-covered leather cord to fit, taking care not to remove too much of the braid.3 Apply glue to the inside of the clasp opening and the end of the cord. Press the cord into the clasp end (photo f), and hold in place for three minutes. Repeat on the other end of the braid.4 Close the clasp, and adjust the bracelet shape. Let dry completely overnight. w

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KUMIHIMO WITH TWO-HOLE BEADS

Twice as niceFiber and beads share the spotlight whentwo-hole Twins are twined into kumihimo.

designed by Yvonne Rosania Reavis

Setup 1 Cut 12 112-yd. (1.4 m) pieces of cord. Gather the cords, and tie an overhand knot 1 in. (2.5 cm) from one end.2 Feed the knot through the center hole of the kumihimo disk from front to back, and attach the weight or binder clip. Arrange the 12 cords so there is one cord in each of the slots on either side of the dots on the top and bottom of the disk, and a pair of cords in each of the slots on either side of the dots on the right and left (photo a).3 On one of the single cords, use a Big Eye needle to string 100 80 seed beads. Wind the

end of the cord around a bobbin so that the beads are approximately 2 in. (5 cm) from the disk. Repeat for the three remaining single cords.4 Thread a Big Eye needle onto each cord in a pair of cords. String 100 2.5 x 5 mm Twin beads, with each cord going through one hole of each Twin (photo b). Wind the end of the cords around a bobbin so the beads are approximately 12 in. (1.3 cm) from the disk, leaving all the Twins exposed. This allows the Twins to slide off easily and will keep the cords from twisting. Repeat for the three remaining pairs of cords.

BraidAs you work with the pairs of cords, always make sure the cords are not twisted and that you have equal tension as you braid.1 Position the kumihimo disk so that the single cords are at the top and bottom, and the Twin cords are on the right and left.2 To work a section of braid without beads: Using the basic eight-cord kumihimo technique, bring the top-right cord down to the right of the bottom-right cord. Bring the bottom-left cord up to the left of the top-left cord. Turn the disk 90 degrees so that the

paired cords are at the top and bottom.3 Bring the top-right pair of cords down beside the bottom-right pair of cords, taking care to keep the cords from twisting. Bring the bottom-left pair of cords up to the left of the top-left pair of cords. Turn the disk 90 degrees.4 Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the unbeaded section is 1412 in. (6 mm1.3 cm) long, ending with step 3.5 To begin working with beads: Pick up the cord on the top right, and slide an 80 down to the braid, tucking it under the pair of cords cross-

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Difficulty rating

Yvonne Rosania Reavis has been beading for two years and loves color, designing, and creating. Visit www.yvonnedesigns.com to see her work, and email her at yvonne@yvonnesdesigns.com.

Materialsnecklace 20 in. (51 cm) 22 g 2.5 x 5 mm Twin beads (Preciosa, copper) 10 g 80 seed beads (Miyuki 278, aqua-lined crystal AB) 2 60 seed beads for finishing (Miyuki 4202, gold) 2 110 seed beads for finishing (any color) 2 20 x 15 mm tulip bead caps (gold) toggle clasp (gold) 12 in. (30 cm) 20-gauge wire (brass) C-Lon or S-Lon cord (antique gold and aqua) kumihimo disk with 8 bobbins and weight or binder clip Big Eye needles E6000 adhesive chainnose pliers roundnose pliers wire cutters

All materials available from www.asthebeadturns.com.

BasicsTying an overhand knotMaking a wrapped loop

ing over the cord youre work-ing with. Move the cord to the right of the bottom-right cord. Pick up the bottom-left cord, and slide a bead up to the braid, tucking it under the pair of cords that crosses the cord youre working with. Move the cord up to the left of the top-left cord. Turn the disk 90 degrees.6 Pick up the top-right pair of cords, and slide a Twin up to the braid. Tuck it under the crossing cord, taking care not to twist the cords. Bring the pair of cords down to the right of the bottom-right pair of cords. Pick up the bottom-left pair of cords, and slide a Twin up to the braid, tucking it under the crossing cord. Move the cords up to the left of the top-left pair of cords (photo c). Turn the disk 90 degrees.7 Repeat steps 5 and 6 until

youve added all the beads to the braid, taking care to keep the cords from twisting, the tension even, and the beads on the outside of the braid.8 Work in kumihimo without beads as in steps 2 and 3 until the unbeaded section is 1412 in. (6 mm1.3 cm) long.9 Remove the cords from the disk and the bobbins, and tie the ends with an overhand knot next to the braid.

Finishing1 Dab the knots and the unbeaded braid ends with glue, and let dry completely. Trim the excess cord just above the knots.2 Cut a 6-in. (15 cm) piece of 20-gauge wire, and slide it through the middle of the unbeaded braid so about 12 in. (1.3 cm) comes out the other side (photo d). Make

a hook in the short end of the wire (photo e), and tightly wrap it around the end of the braid to secure the wire.3 Extend the remaining wire so it points straight up from the end of the braid. String an 110 down to the braid, then slide a bead cap or cone over the bead and braid. 4 String a 60 seed bead (photo f), and make the first half of a wrapped loop. Attach half of the clasp, and complete the wraps.5 Repeat steps 24 on the other end of the necklace with the other half of the clasp. w

noteIn this necklace, I matched the cord to the beads, so I used aqua cord with the 80s and gold cord with the Twins.

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ACCENT-BEAD CORDS

ACCENT-BEAD CORDS

PEANUT-BEAD CORD

80 CORD

80 CORD

PEANUT-BEAD CORD

MULTIBEAD KUMIHIMO

Get your group onKumihimo braiding is

usually done one bead at a time. But what happens when you move multiple beads at once? Endless possibilities, thats what!

designed by Michelle Heimwith Jane Danley Cruz

These instructions are for the seafoam bracelet (above right). To make the peanut-bead version (above), see Design option, next page.

Setup1 Cut eight 2-ft. (61 cm) lengths of cord. Tie them together with an overhand knot at one end.2 With a Big Eye needle on one cord, pick up 7 in. (18 cm) of 80 seed beads. Wrap the cord and the strung beads around a bobbin and secure, leaving 6 in. (15 cm) of cord to work with. Repeat this step once. These cords will be called the 80 cords.3 For two of the remaining cords, work as in step 2, but pick up 7 in. (18 cm) of 2 x 4 mm peanut beads. These cords will be called the peanut bead cords.4 For the remaining four cords, work as in step 2, but pick up two 90 large-hole seed beads, and then pick up a repeating pattern of a 90, a 4 x 3 mm rondelle, and a 90 a total of 19 times. End by picking up two 90s. These cords will be called the accent bead cords.5 Feed the knotted end of the cords through the center hole of the kumihimo disk from

front to back, and attach a weight or binder clip.6 Refer to photo a to position the cords: Position an accent bead cord in the slot to the left and another to the right of the top-center or 12 oclock position of the disk. Position the other two accent bead cords directly opposite. Position an 80 cord in the slot above the 3 oclock position and the other below the 9 oclock position. Position a peanut bead cord in the slot below the 3 oclock position and the other above the 9 oclock position.

Braid1 To work a section of braid without beads: Position the disk with a pair of accent bead cords at the top. Using the basic eight-cord kumihimo technique, pick up the top-right-hand cord, and move it to the right of the bottom-right cord (figure 1). Bring the bottom-left cord up, and place it to the left of the top-left cord (figure 2). Rotate the disk 90 degrees. 2 Repeat step 1 three times to work one complete kumihimo rotation. The beads should be positioned as they were dur-ing setup.3 To begin working with beads: Pick up

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Difficulty rating

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2

Materialsboth projects Big Eye needle bead awl or crochet hook (optional) E6000 adhesive or Super New Glue kumihimo disk with 8 bobbins and weight

or binder clip 2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or

bentnose pliers roundnose pliers wire cutters

seafoam bracelet 834 in. (22.2 cm) 76 4 x 3 mm rondelles (green turquoise AB) 3 g 2 x 4 mm peanut beads (Matsuno P4014-

MA, matte seafoam) 3 g 80 seed beads (Toho 1207, marbled

opaque turquoise blue) 1 g 90 large-hole seed beads (Toho 1071,

dusty mauve; www.artbeads.com) clasp 2 12 x 10 mm end caps 2 4 mm jump rings 6 in. (15 cm) 20-gauge wire C-Lon cord

peanut-bead version 2 x 4 mm peanut beads 6 g color A (gunmetal) 3 g each color B and C (cream and

matte lilac) clasp 2 12 x 10 mm end caps 2 4 mm jump rings 6 in. (15 cm) 20-gauge wire C-Lon cord

BasicsTying an overhand knotMaking a wrapped loopOpening and closing jump rings

the top-right cord (an accent bead cord), and slide a bead down to the braid, positioning the bead under the cord crossing over the cord you are working with (photo b). Move the cord down to the right of the bottom-right cord. Pick up the bottom-left cord, and slide a bead under the crossing cord. Move the cord up to the left of the top-left cord. Rotate the disk 90 degrees.4 Repeat step 3 for a for a total of two complete rotations. You should have worked 16 moves with beads at the end of these rotations.5 Do this for the next 19 rotations: On each accent bead cord, slide down a 90, a rondelle, and a 90 as a unit. On each 80 cord, slide down four 80s as a unit. On each peanut bead cord, slide down three peanut beads as a unit. Keep a consistent but not tight tension, and make sure each group of beads sits under the crossing cord and does not drop into the center of the braid.6 Work the last two kumihimo rotations by sliding down a single bead on each cord, as in steps 34. 7 Work a complete kumihimo rotation without beads, as in steps 12.

8 Remove the cords from the bobbins, and gather them together. Tie an overhand knot close to the braid. Trim the cord close to the knot, and dab with glue.9 Remove the weight from the other end of the braid, and gently stretch the braid to adjust the tension. Check the braid for any beads that may have dropped inside, and use a needle or crochet hook to gently pull them back outside the braid (photo c).

Finishing1 Cut a 3-in. (7.6 cm) piece of 20-gauge wire. Form the wire into a U-shape, and slide it through the second round of beads in the braid. Wrap one end of the wire tightly around the braid a few times, and trim.2 On the other end of the wire, string a 12 x 10 mm end cap, and make a wrapped loop.3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the other end of the braid.4 Open a 4 mm jump ring, and attach the wrapped loop at one end of the braid to half of the clasp. Repeat this step at the other end of the braid. w

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Michelle Heim began her addiction to beads by chance. She took one class, and that was it! In 2006, she moved back to Wisconsin and opened the bead store Beadalotta Fond du Lac, which she co-owns with her mom. Contact her at michelle@beadalotta.com, or visit her website, www.beadalotta.com.

design option: peanut-bead version Select three colors of peanut beads, and string four cords with As, two cords with Bs, and two cords with Cs. When you arrange the cords on the disk, substitute A cords for the accent-bead cords, B cords for the 80 cords, and C cords for the peanut-bead cords. In step 6 of Braid, slide three peanut beads on each cord for each move.

FLAT KUMIHIMO AND SOUTACHE

New dimensions

Soutache sets the stage for a stunning coiled closure on a flat kumihimo braid.

designed by Sonia Corbin-Davis

Large soutache clasp endWhen stitching through soutache, remember to always sew through the center V-shaped groove. Use shaping stitches to help form curves around beads: Make longer stitches on the outside and shorter ones on the inside, keeping the ten-sion loose enough to pre-vent the cords from buckling.1 Thread a needle on a 1-yd. (.9 m) piece of thread.

Tie an overhand knot at the other end. 2 Cut five 1-yd. (.9 m) pieces of soutache braided cord; work with just one color, or choose a different color for each cord. Stack the cords so the ends are even and all the grooves are running in the same direction, and fold the stack in half. Stitch through the groove of all 10 layers a little way down from the fold (photo a). Sew back through all 10 layers.

Repeat once more to secure the join. 3 Sew through the first five layers of cord to exit in the middle of the fold. Pick up a 10 mm round bead, a 4 mm spacer, and an 110 seed bead, and sew back through the spacer and the 10 mm (photo b). Continue through the next five layers. Retrace the thread path to reinforce the connection. This will be your clasp bead.4 Divide the cords into two

equal stacks, and exit the outer cord of one stack. 5 Pick up a 10 mm bead, and sew through the five-cord stack where the hole of the 10 mm meets the stack. Retrace the thread path through the join twice. Make three shaping stitches to coil the stack around the 10 mm, and push the ends of the stack behind your work so that they pass under themselves at the bottom of the coil (photo c). Sew back

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Difficulty rating

Sonia Corbin-Davis is a realtor and self-taught jewelry designer and teacher. Shes been creating jewelry for more than 20 years. She and her husband live in Texas and have three children. Contact her at sonia.thejewelryinstructor@gmail.com, or visit www.etsy.com/shop/thejewelryinstructor.

Materialsbracelet 712 in. (19.1 cm) 5 1-yd (.9 m) pieces of 18-in. (3 mm) soutache braided cord, 15 colors 3 10 mm round beads, such as crystals, pearls, or gemstones 6 8 mm round beads, such as crystals, pearls, or gemstones 2 g 110 seed beads 10 4 mm heishi daisy spacers nylon beading thread to match cord square kumihimo disk beading needles, #10 Ultrasuede E6000 adhesive

BasicsTying an overhand knotEnding and adding thread

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

FIGURE 6

a b c

d e f

and forth between the layers of the coil to tack them in place. 6 Sew through the five-cord stack to exit about 14 in. (6 mm) beyond the coil you just made, exiting the same cord you exited in step 4. Pick up an 8 mm round bead, and sew through the stack where the hole of the 8 mm meets the stack. Retrace the thread path twice. Make sev-eral shaping stitches to coil the stack around the 8 mm, and push the ends of the stack behind your work so that they pass under themselves (photo d). Tack the stack at the intersection.7 Sew through your work to the other five-cord stack, exiting even with the first coil. Repeat steps 5 and 6, making this side a mirror image of the first.8 Sew through the five-cord stack to exit the space between the coils. Pick up an 8 mm, and sew through the five-cord stack on the other side. Sew back through the stack and the 8 mm, and end the thread. All 10 cords should now be pointing in the same direction and in the same order as when you began (photo e).

BraidAs you work in kumihimo, take care to keep the cords straight and flat, and only turn them at the edges of the braid.1 Insert the clasp end into the center slot of the disk. It will function as your weight as you braid.2 Position the two outer cords in the center two slots on the bottom. Working inward, the next two outer cords should be placed on either side on the bottom. The two inner cords should go in the two center slots on the top, with the next two cords on either side. The last pair of cords should go on either side of the top (photo f).3 Begin working with the two center cords on the top of the disk. Bring the top-right center cord to the left side of the disk (figure 1) and the top-left center cord to the right side of the disk (figure 2).

4 Working with the left-hand cords: Bring the bottom-left center cord to the top-left center slot (figure 3), and bring the next top-left cord down to the bottom-left center slot (figure 4). Bring

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the next bottom-left cord up to the empty slot on the top (figure 5), and bring the far-left cord down to the bottom-left slot (figure 6). Bring the cord on the left side of the disk to the top-left slot (figure 7).5 Working with the right-hand cords: Bring the bottom-right center cord up to the empty top-right slot (figure 8), and bring the next top-right cord down to the bottom-right center slot (figure 9). Bring the bottom-right cord to the empty slot next to the top-right cord (figure 10), and bring the top-right cord down to the bottom-right slot (figure 11). Complete the sequence by bringing the cord on the right side of the disk to the top right slot (figure 12).6 Repeat steps 35 until the braided portion is about 2 in. (5 cm) shorter than the desired finished length of the bracelet. End with a complete sequence.7 Carefully remove the cords from the disk. Tie an overhand knot at one end of 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, and sew through the end of the braid just enough to keep it from unraveling (photo g).

Small soutache clasp end1 Divide the cords into three sets with three cords on each side and four cords together in the middle. Make sure your sets are stacked with the grooves going in the same direction.

soutache

Ultrasuede

FIGURE 7

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 12

FIGURE 13

g h

j k

i

2 Using the three-cord stack on one side, make three shaping stitches (photo h), and pick up an 8 mm. Wrap the stack around the 8 mm, and sew through the stack on the other side. Continue wrapping the stack around the bead, and sew back through the bead and the stack on the other side. Pick up an 8 mm on the other side, and continue wrapping the stack around the second bead to make a figure 8 (photo i). 3 Push the ends of the stack behind your work, and end the stack (photo j). Secure to the end of the braid. 4 Sew through the work to exit the remaining three-cord stack. Make two shaping stitches, and add an 8 mm. Wrap the stack around the 8 mm, and sew through the stack and back through the stack and the 8 mm. Continue wrapping the bead, and then tuck the cords to the back of your work. Tack them at the intersection, and end the stack (photo k).5 Use shaping stitches on the four remaining cords to form them into a loop large enough to fit snuggly around the clasp bead on the other end of the bracelet. Tuck the

ends to the back of your work, and end the cords.

Finishing1 Embellish the front of your clasp ends as desired, using 110s and spacers to hide the joins.2 Cut two pieces of Ultra-suede slightly larger than the clasp ends. Glue each piece of Ultrasuede to the back of the clasp ends, taking care not to glue the clasp loop. Let dry completely.3 Carefully trim the Ultrasuede close to the outer cord of each clasp end.4 Begin a new 1-yd. (.9 m) thread, and sew through a clasp end, burying the knot between layers and exiting along the edge where the clasp meets the braid. Pick up two 110s, sew down through the cord and Ultrasuede, and sew back up through the last 110 added (figure 13). For subsequent stitches, pick up an 110, sew down through the cord and Ultrasuede, and sew up through the last 110 added. Continue working around the outside of the clasp, and end the thread.5 Repeat step 4 on the other end of the bracelet. w

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BNB8308-001BNB8308-002BNB8308-003BNB8308-004BNB8308-005BNB8308-006BNB8308-007BNB8308-008BNB8308-009BNB8308-010BNB8308-011BNB8308-012BNB8308-013BNB8308-014BNB8308-015BNB8308-016