beginner’s guide to quiltmaking plus speedy strip-pieced patterns€¦ · strip-pieced patterns...

7Speedy Strip-pieced Patterns

7Speedy Strip-pieced Patterns

Beginner’s Guide to Quiltmaking

Beginner’s Guide to Quiltmaking

PLUSPLUS

visit our website: QuickQuilts.com

Patterns Includes: Chintz Fantasy

Illusion

Be My Sweetheart

Firecracker

Pesto Presto

Harvest Table

Tuck Me In

Beginner’s Guide Includes: Rotary Cutting

Strip Piecing

How to Make Continuous Bias

Quiltmaking Fundamentals

Patterns Includes: Chintz Fantasy

Illusion

Be My Sweetheart

Firecracker

Pesto Presto

Harvest Table

Tuck Me In

Beginner’s Guide Includes: Rotary Cutting

Strip Piecing

How to Make Continuous Bias


McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 1

OneAfter being cut or torn at the store and then washed and ironed at home, fabric is almost never straight and ready for rotary cut-ting. It is imperative that you start with a straight edge across the width of the fabric.Bringing selvages together, allow fabric to drop in front of you. Keeping selvages even, scoot fabric along with your fingers until it falls perfectly straight. The raw edges where fabric is torn will probably not match up.

TwoLay fabric on cutting mat with folded edge toward you and raw edge to be straightened to the right (left-handers to the left).

Place 6” x 24” rotary-cutting ruler on fabric, aligning one of the crosswise measuring lines precisely along the fold. Pressing down firmly on the ruler with your left (right) hand, cut away from yourself along the ruler edge. Some people prefer cutting part way, stopping the cutting motion but not lifting the cutter, moving the left (right) hand up, then finishing the cut.

ThreeTurn cutting board around so that newly straightened edge is to the left (right). To cut strips, find line on ruler to match width of strip desired. Place this line exactly on cut edge of fabric and cut strip.

FourTo cut perfect squares: Align 1 or more strips of the same width and trim ends to get an even starting point. Make cuts the same width as strips were cut.

Beginner’s GuidePart 1: Rotary Cutting

Rotary cutting has revolutionized quiltmaking! Were it not for these wonderfully handy gadgets, millions of quiltmakers would not have joined the quilting craze. Using cutting tools safely and accurately is very important, so we want to share a few tips for beginning rotary-cutters in hopes that you will get optimum advantage from the projects in Quick Quilts!

One

Two Three Four

2 McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts

Part 4: QPart 3: How to Make Continuous Bias1. Remove selvages from fabric and cut a 40˝

square. (A 40˝ square should make about 16 yards of 2 ˝-wide bias strip.)

2. Lightly label square, as shown in Dia gram I. Cut square in half diago nally to make triangles. With right sides facing and raw edges aligned, join triangles (seam 1) to form a parallelo-gram, as shown in Diagram II. Press seam open. Measure and mark across parallelogram with lines equal to the width of your bias strip, as shown.

3. Form a tube by aligning edges marked seam 2, matching your marked lines and offsetting the edge of one strip width beyond line. (See Dia gram III.) Stitch and press seam open.

4. Start at offset end and cut around the tube on marked lines for your continuous bias strip.

Seam 2

Seam 2 Seam 1 Diagram II

FiveFrequently used shapes are half-square and quarter-square triangles. A square cut once diago-nally makes 2 half-square triangles; a square cut twice diagonally makes 4 quarter-square triangles.

Part 2: StripPiecingStrip-piecing refers to rotary cut strips of speci-fied widths being sewn together on long edges to make strip-pieced units (photo A).

When creating simple strip-pieced patchwork (nine-patch squares, for example), press seam allowances in opposite directions (photo B) so that long units can be layered for cutting quickly and will later be easy to sew. In the photo, seam allowances were pressed toward the light floral fabric on both strips.

Strip-pieced units are cut apart, segments posi-tioned to make patch-work, and sewn together (photo C).

Five

A

B

C


These instructions are intended to give you a brief and basic introduction to quiltmaking. Instructions for quilts on this disc are written for the individual with some sewing ex-perience. Take time to review these pages before beginning if you are making your first quilt.

Basic Quiltmaking SuppliesIron and ironing boardPencils and sharpenerQuilting hoop or frameQuilting thread (cotton for hand quilting, mono filament or

cotton for machine quilting)Pins and pincushionRotary cutter and mat (at least 18˝ x 24˝)Rulers: 2˝ x 18˝, clear plastic 12˝ square, and 6˝ x 24˝ for use with a rotary cutterSewing machineSewing thread in colors to match your fabricsShears, 8˝ (for fabric)

Fabric Preparation We recommend washing, drying, and

pressing all fabrics be fore using. Pre-washing will help wash out excess dye and pre shrink the fabric. Occasion ally, a fabric will continue to “bleed” after several wash ings. If this occurs, add one cup of white vinegar to one gallon water and soak fabric to help set the color. If the fabric still continues to “bleed,” do not use the fabric. To add body to pre-washed fabric, use spray fabric finish (not starch) when pressing.

Pressing One of the most important steps in

quiltmaking (and most sewing) is proper pressing. It is important to press after sewing each seam. When working with strips, be careful to press them straight and not make arcs. When working with bias edges, press them as little as possible before they are sewn to another piece. Use a light touch when pressing. Lift the iron, then place back down on the seam or piece to be pressed instead of “iron ing” without lifting the iron. Be as careful pressing as you are cutting and sewing for the best possible results.

Machine Piecing To join pieces by ma chine, place two

pieces with right sides together. Align raw edges and insert pins, per pendicular to seam line, to secure. (Pins are re moved just before reaching the sewing ma chine needle.)

When machine piecing, an accurate ¼˝ seam allow ance is important. Place a piece of masking tape on your machine ¼˝ to right of your needle to mark a ¼˝ seam allowance. When stitching, align raw eges of fabric with tape. A ¼˝ presser foot is also available for most machines. A machine-stitched seam line is

sewn from raw edge to raw edge, and backstitching is not necessary because seams will be crossed by another line of stitch ing. Seam allowances are nor mally pressed to one side, usu ally toward the darker fabric.

Chain-Piecing To chain-piece, feed pairs of fabric pieces

to be stitch ed under the presser foot one after the other, without cutting the sewing threads between them. After stitching the first pair, take a few stitches without any fabric under the needle; then insert the second pair. The sewing threads form short “chains” between the paired pieces. Con-tinue in this manner until all pairs have been stitched. Cut the chains after stitching.

Making Quick Triangles For two half-square triangles, place two

squares right sides together. Draw a dia gonal line across top square and stitch a ¼˝ seam on both sides of the line. Cut apart on the drawn line. This is particularly use ful when working on scrap quilts.

Machine Appliqué For the machine-appliqué method

discussed below, all pattern pieces are cut with out seam allowances. Then raw edges are covered with a close machine satin stitch or blanket stitch. Use a lightweight paper-backed fusible

web to fuse the appliqué piece to the background fabric. Draw templates on the paper side of the fusible web. Fuse to wrong side of appliqué fabric. Peel paper off, and following manufacturer’s in structions, fuse appliqué to background fabric. Use com-mercially made stabilizer or other material that will tear out of the stitching beneath the appliqué piece and background to add strength and firmness before machine-appliqué ing (stitching).

Marking Quilting Patterns Always press the quilt top thoroughly

before marking. Check for misalignment of seams or any puckering and correct, if possible.

There are many marking tools available to quilters, including #2 pencil, water-erasable markers, chalk pencils, artist’s white or silver pencils, and many more. Before choosing the tool to mark the quilt top, ALWAYS TEST FOR REMOVABILITY. What works on one quilt may not work on the next! Quilts can be marked using stencils,

templates, or rulers, to name just a few choic es. As you pro gress, you will find the method that gives you the most satisfactory results. Com mer cially made stencils are available through quilt and fabric stores, or you can make your own from template plastic. Place the sten cil on the quilt top, and lightly mark on the top, using the tool of your choice (for dark fabrics, dress maker’s chalk pencil or a white or silver artist’s pencil work well).

Backing The backing of a quilt is just as important

as the quilt top. The fabric used should be of the same quality as the fabric used in the top. If making a wall hanging 32˝ wide or less, a seamless backing is easy to cut. For quilts larger than 32˝ wide, a seamed backing is necessary unless you are using fabric widths greater than the commonly used 40/42˝. Backing should be cut 4˝ larger than the quilt on all sides and sewn with a vertical or horizontal seam (choose seaming method that uses least fabric to make the backing size needed). Press backing seams open.

Choosing Batting There are several factors to consider when

choosing batting for a quilting project. How do you want the quilt to look? How close to gether will the rows of quilting be? Are you quilting by hand or machine? What is the end use of the quilt? All of these questions will affect which batting you choose for the project. Most batting comes in standard pre-cut

sizes. The standard batting sizes are: Crib 45˝ x 60˝ Twin 72˝ x 90˝ Full 81˝ x 96˝ Queen 90˝ x 108˝ King 120˝ x 120˝ Batting also comes in a number of differ-

ent fibers (not all fibers come in all standard sizes). If you prefer an old-fashioned looking quilt, looking a little rumpled and well loved, consider using batting that is mostly cotton (cotton batting requires more quilting than some other fibers).



If you like “puffy” quilts, use a high-loft polyester batting. If you don’t want to do a lot of quilting, use a regular or low loft polyester. Batting also comes in wool, silk, and other fibers (these are not as widely available as cotton and polyester batting). If you are not sure which batting is right for your project, consult the professionals at your local quilt or fabric store.

Layering For any size quilt, other than a small wall

hanging, layering and basting is easier when done with a partner. Whether you choose to quilt by hand or ma chine, the layering process is the same. There are, however, different basting methods for hand or machine quilting. Finger-crease the backing in half

lengthwise to find center, and lightly mark on wrong side at bottom and top edges. On a smooth, flat working surface a lit tle larger than the quilt, place backing with right side down. Smooth out any wrinkles until the backing is flat (use masking tape to tape backing taut to work surface, if possible). Un-fold batting and layer it on backing. Smooth out wrinkles carefully, to keep backing wrinkle free. Fold the quilt top in half lengthwise to

find center, and lightly mark on wrong side at bottom and top edges. With right side up, place quilt top on top of the backing and batting, keeping all layers wrinkle free. Match center marks of quilt top and backing. Remove any loose threads. Use straight pins to keep layers from shifting while you baste.

Basting The purpose of basting is to hold the

three layers together to prevent shifting while quilting. Therefore, the quilt should be adequately basted. Telltale signs of poorly basted quilts are puckering and wrinkling of the backing. If hand quilting, baste, using a darning

needle threaded with approx i mately 18˝ of sewing thread. Insert needle through all layers in center of quilt and baste layers together using a long running stitch. The first line of basting should be edge to edge, up the vertical center of the quilt. The second line of basting should be edge to edge across the horizontal center of the quilt. Continue to baste in a grid or starburst pattern until the layers are completely stabilized. If machine quilting, in stead of us ing

needle and thread to baste, use nickel-plated safety pins. Start in the center of the quilt. In a circular pattern, radiating out to all ed ges,

place a safety pin about every 4˝ (about the width of a hand). If possible, avoid pinning in areas where you know you will be quilting (if quilting in the ditch, avoid pinning on seam lines). This is not always possible, and there are times that safety pins will have to be removed when ma chine quilting.

Machine Quilting Because of the improvement in home-

sewing ma chines, machine quilting has become easier to do, and with practice, just like hand quilting, great results can be achieved. Ma chine quilting can be done using straight-line stitching, free-motion stitching, or a combination of both. After the quilt is pin-basted, roll both long

edges toward the center of the quilt with the quilt top facing up. Keep rolling until there is about a 12˝-wide area between rolls at the cen ter of the quilt. Use bi cy cle clips (sold in quilt and fabric stores) to secure rolls. Fold one unrolled end over several times so that the quilt is compact and will fit on your lap while you stitch. Before quilting, it is best to map out a

strategy. The object of this strategy is to find the longest uninterrupted stitching routes. Once these routes are determined, make a directional map of your design to guide you as you stitch. This will en able you to stitch the long est line without stopping. The less you have to stop and start, the better. The even-feed foot or walking foot is

helpful for straight-line stitching. It assists the top fabric through the machine at the same rate as the feed dog moves the bottom fabric. Place unrolled section of quilt under presser foot and stitch. Work to the right. When the right side is completed, remove quilt, reroll quilted side, turn it, and stitch left side. Rest the quilt in your lap while stitching and support the stitched quilt on a table be-hind your sewing ma chine after it is stitched. A darning foot is used for free-motion

quilting, with the ma chine’s feed dogs lowered. The quilt is slowly moved with your fingertips from side to side under the darning foot (your hands act as the quilting “hoop”). The machine should be operated at a steady, medium speed to prevent uneven stitches. Meander quilting and stippling are two types of free-motion quilting.

Finishing Quilts can be bound with binding cut

on the bias or on the straight grain. A continuous strip of bias is recommended for quilts that will be used frequently, and those with scalloped edges or rounded corners. (See How To Make Continuous Bias.)

Straight-grain binding is usually cut in 2½˝-wide strips and folded in half lengthwise be-fore being attached. (A ¼˝ seam al lowance is included in the width measurements.) The width may vary ac cord ing to the thickness of your quilt and your personal pref erence.

Attaching the Binding A carefully stitched binding is vital to a

successful quilt. To begin, stitch layers of quilt together ¼˝ from the quilt edge. Trim excess batting and fabric. With right sides together and raw edges even, pin the binding to the quilt top. If using a continuous binding, fold beginning end over with wrong sides together and start stitching at the midpoint of your quilt. If using straight-grain binding, start stitching 6˝ from the end of the binding at the quilt corners. Backstitch at the beginning and end of stitching. Stitch through all layers and miter the corners of the binding strips. Fold the binding to the quilt back, and blindstitch in place. To make straight-grain binding with overlapped corners, stitch binding to opposite sides of quilt and trim even with top and bottom. Blindstitch to quilt back. Stitch binding to top and bottom, leaving 2˝ of extra binding at each end. Fold the raw end of binding in, then fold binding toward back of quilt. Blindstitch in place, stitching corners securely. To miter corners of your binding strip, stop

stitching ¼˝ from first corner and backstitch. Remove the quilt from the ma chine and turn it 90º. Fold binding strip over itself to form a 45º fold. When done cor rectly, the edge of the unattached binding will align with the quilt’s raw edge. Begin stitching again at the corner and backstitch. Continue around the quilt in the same manner until binding ends meet.

Signing Your Quilt Signing your quilt is the most important

step in quiltmaking, next to making it. It is a documentation of who made the quilt and when. Your documentation should include the name of the quilt, the quiltmaker, city, state, date, and quilt pattern. Special thoughts or feelings about the quilt can also be included. The documentation can be typed on mus lin or written with a fab ric-marking pen. Instead of making a separate label, many

quilters embroider their name and the date into the top of the quilt or on the back.

cut!Red/white dot

*2 strips 2½” x 78”, pieced from 4widths of fabric strips (binding)

4 strips 1¾˝ x 24˝3 strips 1¾˝ x 20˝4 strips 3˝ x 16˝4 strips 3˝ x 12˝

White/red dot3 strips 1¾˝ x 24˝4 strips 1¾˝ x 20˝8 squares 3˝ x 3˝

Backing and low-loft batting—cut fromeach:

2 rectangles 18˝ x 23˝*Cut first.

plan!Prepare a romantic Valentine meal

complete with red and white tablesettings just for the two of you. It’sfast and easy and sure to be a hit!

place mats

Designed byDarleneZimmerman

Finished Sizes2 Place Mats

14¼˝ x 19¼˝2 Napkins

13˝ x 13˝

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

shop!for place mats and napkinsRed/white dot (piecing,

binding) 1⅛ yds.White/red dot (piecing,

napkins) ⅞ yd.Backing ⅞ yd.Low-loft batting 24˝ x 37˝

pieceBlack medium rickrack

(place mats) 7 yds.Black mini rickrack (napkins) 3 yds.Sewing thread, black

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

1 Sew red/white dot and white/reddot 24˝ strips together, alternating(Diagram I). Press seams in direc-tion of arrows. Make 1. Cut 12 seg-ments 1¾˝ wide. In similar manner,make and press 20˝ strip set. Cut10 segments 1¾˝ wide.

be my sweetheart

Diagram I

1¾” x 24˝1¾”Cut

12

Make 1

1¾” x 20˝1¾”Cut

10

Make 11 McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts

2 Sew 11 segments together, 6red/white and 5 white/red, alternat-ing (Diagram II-A). Make 2 for placemat centers. Cut black medium rick-rack into the following lengths: 4strips 15˝ each, 4 strips 10˝ each, 4strips 20˝ each, and 4 strips 17˝each. Sew 15˝ strips to top and bot-tom, aligning with raw edges of placemat center (Diagram II-B). Trimends even with sides. In same man-ner, stitch 10˝ lengths of rickrack tosides, overlapping trimmed top/bottom rickrack strips; trim even withtop/bottom. Repeat for second placemat center.

3 Referring to Diagram III-A, measureexact width of place mat center

from short raw edge to short rawedge. Trim red 16˝ strips to thismeasurement and sew white 3˝squares to ends. Stitch red 12˝ stripsto short sides of place mat center;trim even with top/bottom. Sewpieced strips to top/bottom. Stitch20˝ rickrack strips to top/bottom,aligning with raw edges; trim even(Diagram III-B). Sew 17˝ rickrackstrips to sides; trim even. Make 2place mat tops.

4 Layer place mat top, batting andbacking rectangles. Baste and quilt.Darlene machine ditch quilted allseams. She hand quilted a heartand leaves motif in the red bordersand outline quilted each white cor-ner square. Bind with red/white dot.Make 2.

cut!White/red dot2 squares 14˝ x 14˝

5 Turn under ¼˝ twice on all sides ofwhite/red 14˝ square (Diagram IV).Press. Sew close to folded edges.Make 2.

6 Cut black mini rickrack into 2 strips54˝ each. Using black thread, stitch54˝ length of rickrack on right side ofnapkin, centering on stitching line ofhem and pivoting at corners. Trimexcess as you approach startingpoint of stitched rickrack, turningunder the last ¼˝ to hide raw ends.Repeat on second napkin.

napkins

Diagram II-AMake 2

Diagram II-B

10˝

15˝

Diagram III-A

3” x 16˝

3”x

12˝

3”

Make 2

14”

wrong side

Diagram IV

20˝

17˝

Diagram III-B


Plan!Since the large bird print used in

the outer border is directional,Kathie cut her side borders on thelengthwise grain, and the top andbottom border strips on the cross-wise grain. She pieced the top andbottom borders with diagonalseams, a trick that makes the seamsnearly invisible in the large designmotif. We’ve included enoughyardage so you can do likewise, ifyou wish.

Cut!Cream texture

6 strips 2⅛˝ x width of fabric(WOF)

#1, #2 and #3 rose/cream prints—cut from each:

2 strips 2⅛˝ x WOFDark rose print

50 squares 3¾˝ x 3¾˝Tan/cream/wine print

50 squares 5½˝ x 5½˝, cut inhalf diagonally to make 100half-square triangles

Brown print48 squares 5½˝ x 5½˝, cut in

half diagonally to make 96 half-square triangles

Large bird print*2 strips 13˝ x 72˝, cut on length-

wise grain*2 strips 13˝ x 96˝, pieced from 6

WOF strips11 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)24 squares 6⅞˝ x 6⅞˝

Rose/cream stripe4 strips 2½˝ x 72˝, pieced from 8

WOF strips*Cut first.

Sew!� Referring to Diagram I, sewcream texture and #1 rose/creamprint 2⅛˝ x WOF strips together.Make 2. Press in direction of arrow.Cut 36 segments 2⅛˝ wide. Insame manner, make 2 strip setseach sewing cream texture strips to#2 and #3 rose/cream print strips.Press in direction of arrow. Cut 32

cream/#2 print segments 2⅛˝wide; cut 32 cream/#3 print seg-ments 2⅛˝ wide.

� Arrange and stitch matchingstrip segments together (DiagramII) to make four-patch square. Make18 using #1 print segments, and 16each using #2 and #3 print seg-ments.

ChintzChintzFantasyFantasy

You Need:Cream texture (four-

patches) ½ yd.#1, #2 and #3 rose/

cream prints (four- ¼ yd.patches) each

Dark rose print(blocks) ¾ yd.

Tan/cream/wineprint (blocks) 1⅜ yds.

Brown print (blocks) 1¼ yds.Large bird print (blocks,

outer border, binding) 5⅝ yds.*Rose/cream stripe

(inner border) ¾ yd.Backing 8½ yds.Batting King size*See Plan!

Designed by Kathie HollandMachine Quilted by Lorre Fleming

Finished Quilt Size92½˝ x 92½˝

Number of Blocks and Finished Size25 Double Four-Patch Blocks 9˝ x 9˝24 Square-in-a-Square Blocks 9˝ x 9˝

Make 2

Cut36 2⅛”

Make 2

Cut32 2⅛”

Diagram IMake 2

Cut32 2⅛”

Make 18 Make 16 Make 16Diagram II


� Using matching pair of four-patchsquares and 2 dark rose print 3¾˝squares, arrange and sew doublefour-patch square (Diagram III).Make 16 total of first arrangementand 9 total of the second arrange-ment.

� Sew tan/cream/wine print 5½˝half-square triangles to sides of dou-ble four-patch square to completeDouble Four-Patch Block (DiagramIV). Make 16 of first arrangement and9 of second arrangement. In samemanner, sew brown print 5½˝ half-square triangles to sides of large birdprint 6⅞˝ square to make Square-in-a-Square Block (Diagram V). Make24. Trim all blocks to 9½˝ square.

� Referring to Assembly Diagram,arrange and sew 7 rows of 7 blockseach, alternating blocks, and followingplacement and orientation of DoubleFour-Patch Blocks. Sew rows together.

� Sew 2½˝ x 72˝ rose/cream stripestrips to sides; trim even with top andbottom. Sew remaining rose/creamstripe strips to top/bottom; trim evenwith sides. Stitch large bird print13˝ x 72˝ strips to sides; trim even.Stitch bird print 13˝ x 96˝ strips totop/bottom; trim even.

� Layer, baste, and quilt. MountainMist Cream Rose batting was used inthis quilt. Lorre machine quilted acontinuous swirling leaf pattern overthe entire quilt. Bind quilt with largebird print fabric (see QuiltmakingFundamentals).

Assembly Diagram

13” x 96”

13”

x72

”

2½” x 72”

Make 16 total Make 9 totalDiagram III

3¾˝

5½˝

Make 24Diagram V

5½˝

6⅞˝


Designed byDolores Smithand SarahMaxwell

MachineQuilted byConnieGresham

FinishedQuilt Size75˝ x 87˝

Number ofBlocks andFinished Size30 Flag Blocks12˝ x 12˝

firecracker

planDolores and Sarah designed this

firecracker of a quilt to take advantageof all of the wonderful patriotic printsavailable now. We’ve listed the fabricsby their predominant color, but all of

the fabrics in the quilt are a combina-tion of red, white, and blue. Also, Sarahand Dolores chose to include onemottled fabric of each color; do like-wise if you wish.

cutAssorted white prints—cut 30 sets of:

2 matching strips 2˝ x 20˝Assorted red prints/stripes—cut 30sets of:

2 matching strips 2˝ x 20˝Assorted blue prints/stripes—cut atotal of:

30 squares 6½˝ x 6½˝Medium blue dot

4 strips 2˝ x 76˝, pieced from 8width of fabric (WOF) strips

Blue star print4 strips 6¼˝ x 80˝, pieced from 8

WOF stripsRed dot

9 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)

sew1 Referring to Diagram I, stitch

together 2 matching white stripsand 2 matching red strips to makestrip set. Make 30 total. Press indirection of arrows. Cut 3 segments6½˝ wide from each.

2 Sew 2 rows using 1 assorted bluesquare and 3 matching white/redsegments (Diagram II). Sew rowstogether to make Flag Block. Make30 total.

6½ ˝

Diagram IIMake 30 total

6½ ˝Cut 30 sets of

3 matching

Diagram IMake 30 total

2˝ x 20˝

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

shopAssorted white prints 1⅞-2¼

(blocks) yds. totalAssorted red prints/stripes 1⅞-2¼

(blocks) yds. totalAssorted blue prints/stripes 1¼-1¾

(blocks) yds. total

Medium blue dot (innerborder) ⅝ yd.

Blue star print (outerborder) 1⅝ yds.

Red dot (binding) ⅞ yd.Backing (piece widthwise) 7⅛ yds.Batting Queen

size


3 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagramand photos for following steps. Sew6 rows of 5 blocks each. Stitch rowstogether.

4 Sew medium blue strips to sides ofquilt; trim even with top/bottom.Stitch remaining medium blue stripsto top/bottom; trim even with sides.Stitch blue star print strips to sides;trim even. Stitch remaining blue starstrips to top/bottom; trim even.

5 Layer, baste, and quilt. The featurequilt is machine quilted with redthread in an allover stars and stripespattern. Bind with red dot.

Assembly Diagram

2˝ x 76˝

6¼˝ x 80˝

6¼˝x

80˝


Designed byJo BethSimons

Finished TableRunner Size12⅞˝ x 37⅝˝

Number ofBlocks &Finished Size1 AppliquédBlock

8¾˝ x 8¾˝

Note: See endof pattern fortemplates.Templates areprintedreversed andwithout seamallowance foruse with paper-backed fusibleweb.

harvest table

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

shopLight gold texture (appliqué

background, backing) 1⅜ yds.Dark green dot (stem/ 1 fat

leaves, piecing) quarter*Orange plaid (pumpkin 1 fat

details, piecing) quarter*Orange texture (pumpkin, 1 fat

piecing) quarter*Brown mottle (pumpkin 3˝ x 4˝

stem) pieceRed leaf print, green/red 1 fat

berry print, and gold large quarter*leaf print (piecing) each

Dark green texture (binding) ⅜ yd.Batting 19˝ x 44˝

piecePaper-backed fusible web ¼ yd.Embroidery floss, tan*A fat quarter is an 18˝ x 20-22˝ cut offabric.

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

cutNote: Cutting instructions for appliquéshapes are given on templates at endof pattern. Cut all 10½˝ strips first, thencontinue with Step 1 to prepare and cutappliqué shapes.

Light gold texture*1 strip 19˝ x 44˝ (backing), cut on

lengthwise grain1 square 9¼˝ x 9¼˝

Dark green dot, orange plaid, orangetexture, red leaf print, green/red berryprint, and gold large leaf print—cut fromeach:

2 strips 2˝ x 10½˝2 strips 1¾˝ x 10½˝2 strips 1½˝ x 10½˝2 strips 1¼˝ x 10½˝2 strips 1˝ x 10½˝

Dark green texture3 strips 2½˝ x width of fabric

(binding)*Cut first.


sew1 Trace Templates A-E on paper side of

paper-backed fusible web. Cut apart, leav-ing small margin beyond drawn lines.Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuseto wrong side of appropriate fabrics; cutapart on drawn lines.

2 Finger-press light gold square in half twicediagonally; use folds as placement guide.Referring to Diagram I-A and photo, posi-tion template fabrics in alphabetical order.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, fusein place. Machine or hand buttonholestitch (Diagram I-B) around appliqué.Note: Jo Beth chose to use a handappliqué technique. If you wish to do like-wise, skip paper-backed fusible web

instructions, and remember to reverse alltemplates and to add ¼˝ turn-underallowance when preparing fabric shapes.Using tan embroidery floss and stem stitch(Diagram I-C), embroider leaf veins andpumpkin curlicue (see templates forplacement). Make 1 Appliquéd Block.

3 Referring to Diagram II-A, sew 10½˝strips together in random fabric and strip-width order to make a pieced rectangle atleast 10¼˝ x 10½˝. Make 4 total. Pressseams all in one direction. Trim to 10˝square. Cut trimmed squares in half twicediagonally (Diagram II-B) to make 16quarter-square triangles.

4 Sew 2 triangles together to make piecedsquare, watching orientation of fabric strips(Diagram III-A). Make 4 total. Sew 2 tri-angles together to make large triangle(Diagram III-B). Make 2 total.

5 Referring to Assembly Diagram, stitchremaining quarter-square triangles to sidesof block to make table runner center. Sew2 pieced squares together, watching orien-tation. Make 2 total and stitch to sides oftable runner center. Sew large triangles toends.

6 Layer, baste, and quilt. Jo Beth hand out-line quilted the center square andappliqué. She added a line of quilting ¼˝inside 1 seam line on each fabric strip.Bind with dark green texture.

Diagram I-AMake 1

9¼˝

A

BE

C

D

Diagram I-BMake 1

Diagram I-C

Diagram II-A

Make 4 total;trim to 10˝ square

10½˝

atle

ast1

0¼˝

Diagram II-B

Cut in halftwice diagonally

10˝

Diagram III-AMake 4 total

Diagram III-BMake 2 total

Asssembly Diagram



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hharvest table templates

Designed byLeah Nelson

FinishedQuilt Size57½˝ x 67½˝

Number ofBlocks andFinished Size25 IllusionBlocks8˝ x 10˝

illusion

shopBlack floral (blocks, outer

border, binding) 3⅛ yds.Black/multicolor dot (blocks,

inner border) 2⅜ yds.Backing (piece widthwise) 3¾ yds.Batting Twin size

planThis lovely quilt is made with just one

block and two fabrics. Elegant but easy,this pattern lends itself to an infinitenumber of fabric pairings. Take aSaturday and whip one up for thatperfect Mother’s Day present orwedding gift!

cutBlack floral

*4 strips 7˝ x 60˝, cut on lengthwisegrain

6 strips 2½˝ x width of fabric (WOF)7 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)2 strips 4½˝ x WOF26 strips 2½˝ x 8½˝

Black/multicolor dot*4 strips 2½˝ x 54˝, cut on length-

wise grain3 strips 4½˝ x WOF4 strips 2½˝ x WOF24 strips 2½˝ x 8½˝

*Cut first.1 McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts

sew1 Referring to Diagram I, stitch black

floral 2½˝ x WOF strips to sides ofblack/multicolor dot 4½˝ strip.Make 3. Press in direction of arrows.Cut into 13 segments 6½˝ wide.In same manner, sew black dot2½˝ x WOF strips and black floral4½˝ strip together to make strip set.Make 2. Press, and cut into 12 seg-ments 6½˝ wide.

2 Stitch 2½˝ x 8½˝ strips totop/bottom of each segment(Diagram II) to make Illusion Block.Make in fabric arrangements andquantities shown.

3 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagramfor following steps. Watching place-ment of blocks, stitch 5 rows of 5blocks each. Sew rows together.

4 Sew black dot 54˝ strips to sides;trim even with top and bottom. Sewremaining black dot strips to top andbottom; trim even with sides. Stitchblack floral 60˝ strips to sides; trimeven with top/bottom. Stitchremaining black floral strips totop/bottom; trim even with sides.

5 Layer, baste, and quilt. Leahmachine quilted an overall continu-ous leaf and flower design on herquilt. Bind with black floral.

Assembly Diagram

7” x 60˝

2½” x 54˝

7”x

60˝

2½”

x54

˝

Make 13 Make 12Diagram II

2½” x 8½˝

Cut 13 6½˝

2½” x WOF

2½” x WOF

4½” x WOF

Make 3

Cut 12 6½˝

2½” x WOF

2½” x WOF

4½” x WOF

Make 2Diagram I


shop8 assorted black/white prints/textures

(blocks, border) ⅜ yd. each8 assorted white/black prints/

textures (blocks, border) ⅜ yd. eachAssorted green prints and

textures (blocks) 1½-1¾ yds. total*Assorted white/black medium prints

and textures (blocks, border) ⅞-1⅛ yds. totalBlack/white print (binding) ¾ yd.Backing 4 yds.Batting Twin size*See Plan.

pestopresto

Designed byAnn Weber

Finished QuiltSize60½˝ x 60½˝

Number ofBlocks &Finished Size4 DoubleNine-patchBlocks

9˝ x 9˝16 Nine-patchChainVariationBlocks

9˝ x 9˝16 Nine-patchChain Blocks

9˝ x 9˝


planVibrant and bold, this quilt adds a fresh feeling to

any room. If you’ve been collecting black and whitefabrics, then you’ll love this stash-smashing pattern.Notice that Ann chose to substitute several white-on-white squares for white/black medium print/texturesquares. Do likewise if you wish.

cut8 assorted black/white prints and textures—cut fromeach:

5 strips 1½˝ x width of fabric (WOF)8 assorted white/black prints and textures—cut fromeach:

4 strips 1½˝ x WOFAssorted green prints and textures—cut a total of:

144 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝Assorted white/black medium prints and textures*—cut a total of:

72 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝Black/white print

7 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)*See Plan.

sew1 Sew 2 matching black/white

1½˝ x WOF strips to sides ofwhite/black 1½˝ x WOF strip(Diagram I-A). Make 2. Pressseams in direction of arrows. Usingsame fabrics, stitch 2 white/black1½˝ strips to sides of black/white1½˝ strip. Make 1. Press seams indirection of arrows. Cut 1½˝ seg-ments in quantities shown. In samemanner, make remaining strip setsand cut segments.

2 Referring to Diagram I-B, sew 3matching segments together tomake nine-patch. Make 184 total.

3 Stitch 3 rows using 5 assorted nine-patches and 4 assorted green 3½˝squares (Diagram II). Sew rowstogether to make Double Nine-patch Block. Make 4 total.

4 Using 4 assorted nine-patches, 4green squares, and 1 assortedwhite/black medium print/texturesquare, sew 3 rows (Diagram III).Stitch rows together to make Nine-patch Chain Variation Block. Make16 total. In same manner, use 3nine-patches, 4 green squares, and2 white/black print squares to makeNine-patch Chain Block (DiagramIV). Make 16 total.

Diagram I-A

1½” x WOF

1½” x WOF

Make 8 total

Make 8 setsof 2 matching

1½”

1½”

Cut 46from each

set

Cut 23from each

Diagram I-B

Make 184total

Diagram IIMake 4 total

3½˝

Diagram IIIMake 16 total

3½˝

Diagram IVMake 16 total

3½˝


Assembly Diagram

5 Stitch 2 assorted nine-patch units tosides of white/black square to makepieced strip (Diagram V). Make 24total.

6 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagramand photos for following steps.Watching orientation, stitch 6 rowsof 6 blocks each. Stitch rows to-gether.

7 Sew 6 pieced strips together end toend. Make 2 and stitch to sides ofquilt. Stitch 6 pieced strips togetherto make top/bottom border, adding1 nine-patch to each end. Make 2and stitch to top/bottom of quilt.

8 Layer, baste, and quilt. Ann machineditch quilted around the nine-patch-es and squares. Wavy lines are cen-tered on all vertical and horizontalrows. Bind with black/white print.

Diagram VMake 24 total

3½˝


tuckme in

Designed bySue Keck and SueShipman for FriendshipDesigns Unique QuiltPatterns

Machine Quilted bySue Shipman

Finished Quilt Size47½˝ x 56½˝

Number of Blocks &Finished Size12 Six-Bar Blocks

9˝ x 9˝8 Three-Bar Blocks

9˝ x 9˝

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

shopYellow print (blocks, borders) 1¼ yds.Green mottle and pink

print (blocks, pieced ¾ yd.border) each

Yellow/pink print (blocks,pieced border) ⅞ yd.

Backing (piece widthwise) 3⅛ yds.Batting Twin size*Yellow ruffled quilt binding,

2˝ wide 6¼ yds.*Available at your local fabric store or onlineat www.joann.com.

✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

planBright and bold, this quickly-pieced quilt is

finished with a purchased ruffle. Ruffled quiltbinding comes in a limited number of colors,so choose your binding first and then selectfabrics that complement your ruffle color.

cutYellow print

9 strips 2˝ x width of fabric (WOF)2 strips 3½˝ x WOF2 strips 2˝ x 45½˝, pieced from

3 WOF strips2 strips 2˝ x 39½˝4 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝

Green mottle and pink print–cut from each:9 strips 2˝ x WOF1 strip 3½˝ x WOF

Yellow/pink print9 strips 2˝ x WOF2 strips 3½˝ x WOF

make the quilt1 Referring to Diagram I, sew 2˝ x WOF

strips together in quantities and colorsshown to make strip sets. Make 2 of eachcombination. Press in direction of arrows.Cut six 9½˝ Six-Bar Blocks of each colorcombination.


2 Repeating stitch, press, and cutprocess from Step 1, use 3½˝ xWOF strips to make Three-BarBlocks (Diagram II). Cut 4 of eachcolor combination.

3 In same manner, use remaining2˝ x WOF strips to make strip sets(Diagram III-A). Cut 58 segmentsfrom each color combination.Referring to Diagram III-B, sew 2segments together to make four-patch. Make 58.

4 Refer to Assembly Diagram for fol-lowing steps. Stitch 5 rows of 4blocks each, watching position andorientation. Sew rows together.

5 Watching orientation, make piecedside border by stitching together 16four-patches. Make 2 and sew tosides of quilt. In same manner,stitch 13 four-patches together tomake top/bottom pieced border.Make 2. Sew yellow print 3½˝squares to ends and stitch totop/bottom of quilt.

6 Layer, baste, and quilt. The featuredquilt was machine quilted with aheart meander on the yellow print,loops on the pink print, flowers onthe yellow/pink patches, and ameander on the green. Note: Stopquilting approximately 1-1½˝ fromraw edge to allow space to add theruffle.

Make 1

Make 1Diagram II

Cut 4

Cut 4

9½”

9½”

3½” x WOF

3½” x WOF


add a ruffled binding7 Trim ungathered edge of ruffled quilt

binding to ¼˝ from gathering line(Photo A).

8 Open one end of ruffle and fold ¼˝ ofruffle fabric to inside, leaving straight tapepart of binding unfolded (Photo B). Top-stitch near fold to form hem. You may findit useful to use an awl or similar tool tocontrol the fold while stitching (Photo C).

9 Fold backing and batting under and pinaway from edges of the quilt top. Startingon any side (not at a corner), and aligningraw edges, pin or baste ruffled binding totop (Photo D). Note: Do not stretchbinding around corners. When you reachthe starting point, overlap ruffle by 1¼˝and trim end (Photo E). Hem as in Step8. Stitch ends together, using ½˝ seam;press open (Photo F).

10 Using ¼˝ seam, sew ruffle to quilt top(Photo G). Unpin backing and battingand trim backing even with quilt top.Trim batting ¼˝ smaller than top on allsides. Fold ¼˝ under on all sides of quilttop (ruffle will now be to the outside)and backing, enclosing batting edge inbacking fold (Photo H); press.

11 Pin layers together and hand stitch fold-ed backing edges to back of ruffle. Addadditional quilting to edges if desired.

A

D

E

F

G

H

B

C


beginner’s guide to quiltmaking plus speedy strip-pieced patterns€¦ · strip-pieced patterns...

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