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341 341 OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anders Pilgaard, Andrea Pape-Christiansen, Anette Nybom, Arlo Werkhoven, Bastien Poirier, Chris Banoub, Elli & Wilfried Koerbl, Frédérique Hélion, Isabel Jordan, Jobin Laurie, Jonathan Skinner, Joseph Stanik, Judy Gage, Kathryn Ward, Lukas Pavek, Maarten Oskam, Melanie Cannon, Nick Thorne, Nilesh Korgaokar, Sabine Gerull, Sara Atkinson, Schmitt Klaus, Seth Almekinder, Tim Laslavic, Tony Smith, Torben Retboll, Velko Miloev, Vera Chiodi, Wancy Lam, William Fitzhugh AUTHOR THANKS Jenny Walker Re-engaging with the people of Jordan is al- ways a great pleasure. Guidebooks are a team effort: big thanks to Helen Elfer, and of course to Paul Clammer, fellow author on this project. Thanks are also due to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, for his unlimited patience during research and write up. As usual, I couldn’t have completed this edition without him. Each of our trips to Jordan has felt like a treasured homecoming: heartfelt thanks to all those who helped us. Paul Clammer In Amman, big thanks to Susan Andrew and Soda (the occasionally borrowed, mad, one-eyed kitty), Steve Catling and Sandra Tahir Wells. Thanks also to Luma Qadoumi of BeAmman, and Daniel Robards of Engaging Culture Travel. For the sneak preview of the Royal Botanic Gardens, thanks to Habiba Ding- wall and Ryan Guillou. Finally, thanks and love to Robyn, whose idea it was to go to Jordan in the first place. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adopted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Illustration pp162-3 by Michael Weldon Cover photograph: The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), Petra, Jordan; Danita Delimont Stock/AWL SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/jordan-9-index.pdf · Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5 biblical sites 12, 272-4, 273 ’Ain Musa 272

341341

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anders Pilgaard, Andrea Pape-Christiansen, Anette Nybom, Arlo Werkhoven, Bastien Poirier, Chris Banoub, Elli & Wilfried Koerbl, Frédérique Hélion, Isabel Jordan, Jobin Laurie, Jonathan Skinner, Joseph Stanik, Judy Gage, Kathryn Ward, Lukas Pavek, Maarten Oskam, Melanie Cannon, Nick Thorne, Nilesh Korgaokar, Sabine Gerull, Sara Atkinson, Schmitt Klaus, Seth Almekinder, Tim Laslavic, Tony Smith, Torben Retboll, Velko Miloev, Vera Chiodi, Wancy Lam, William Fitzhugh

AUTHOR THANKS

Jenny WalkerRe-engaging with the people of Jordan is al-ways a great pleasure. Guidebooks are a team effort: big thanks to Helen Elfer, and of course to Paul Clammer, fellow author on this project. Thanks are also due to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, for his unlimited patience during research and write up. As usual, I couldn’t have

completed this edition without him. Each of our trips to Jordan has felt like a treasured homecoming: heartfelt thanks to all those who helped us.

Paul ClammerIn Amman, big thanks to Susan Andrew and Soda (the occasionally borrowed, mad, one-eyed kitty), Steve Catling and Sandra Tahir Wells. Thanks also to Luma Qadoumi of BeAmman, and Daniel Robards of Engaging Culture Travel. For the sneak preview of the Royal Botanic Gardens, thanks to Habiba Ding-wall and Ryan Guillou. Finally, thanks and love to Robyn, whose idea it was to go to Jordan in the first place.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adopted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.

Illustration pp162-3 by Michael Weldon

Cover photograph: The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), Petra, Jordan; Danita Delimont Stock/AWL

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/jordan-9-index.pdf · Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5 biblical sites 12, 272-4, 273 ’Ain Musa 272

342

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Jordan guidebook was researched and written by Jenny Walker and Paul Clammer. The previous edition was also written by Jenny Walker. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Helen ElferCoordinating Editor Lorna ParkesProduct Editor Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Clara Monitto

Assisting Editors Bruce Evans, Kate Evans, Kate James, Christopher Pitts, Ross Taylor, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Shahara Ahmed, Samantha Forge, Andi Jones, Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, Martine Power, Ellie Simpson

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343©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WD trips 216-17

AAbdullah, King 262, 263,

264, 267Abila (Quwayliba) 94accommodation 306-8, see

also individual locationsactivities 21-3, 308, see

also bird-watching, diving, hiking, horse-riding, rock climbing, snorkelling, wildlife-watching

’Ain Musa 272air travel 319-20, 324Ajloun 87-8Ajloun Forest Reserve 88-91Alameleh Inscriptions 215Al-Beidha 190alcohol 291Alexander the Great 254,

255, 257Al-Habis 168Al-Hasany Dunes 215Al-Himma (Mukheiba) 96alphabet 336Al-Wu’ira 190-1Amman 38, 42-71, 43, 46-7,

52, 59, 73, 26accommodation 42, 56-8activities 54children 56climate 42courses 54drinking & nightlife 62-4emergencies 67entertainment 64-5food 42, 58-62highlights 43internet access 67-8medical services 68shopping 65-74

sights 45-54tourist information 68tours 55-6travel seasons 42travel to/from 68-71travel within 71walking tour 50-1 51

Anfaishiyya Inscriptions 215animals 293, see also

Arabian oryx, birdsAqaba 40, 193, 195-207,

196-7Aqaba Fort 198-9Aquarium 205Arab Spring 268, 302Arabian oryx 236Arabic 16, 333-7arak 291Archaeological Park II

(Burnt Palace) 127archaeological sites

Al-Beidha 190Bethany-Beyond-the-

Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5

Dana 150Herodus (Zara) Spring 114Humaiyma 225Jerash 9, 77-86, 78, 9Khirbet Feynan 150Khirbet Tannour Temple

146Madaba 126-8Mar Elias 87-8Pella (Taqabat Fahl)

99-101, 99Petra 9, 40, 155-92, 156,

160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3Tell Hesban 136Umm al-Jimal 242-4, 243Umm Qais (Gadara) 97-8,

274, 97, 14Wadi Jadid 137

archaeology 269-71fieldwork 270-1, 308internet resources 270museums 270

architecturelanguage 340Ottoman 102Umayyad 245, 260

area codes 315Ariha 141Ar-Rabba 141art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 65, see also calligraphy,

crafts, mosaics, weavingATMs 313Ayla 197Ayoun Musa 272Azraq 40, 227, 232-4Azraq Oasis 235-6Azraq Wetland Reserve 236

Bbargaining 286Barrah Canyon 216Basilica Terrace 97baths, see hammamsBaths (Umm Qais) 97bathrooms 316beaches 199Bedouin culture 138, 188Bedouin people 20, 191, 223,

224, 275-8beer 291Beit Arar 92Bethany-Beyond-the-Jordan

(Al-Maghtas) 103-5biblical sites 12, 272-4, 273

’Ain Musa 272Ayoun Musa 272Bethany-Beyond-the-

Jordan (Al-Maghtas) 103-5

Dead Sea 272Jebel Haroun 272Jebel Umm al-Biyara 272Lot’s Cave 119, 273Mt Nebo 134-6, 274, 12Mukawir (Machaerus)

137-9, 274, 15

Tell al-Kharrar 274Umm Qais (Gadara) 96-9,

274, 97, 14bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 293bird-watching

Azraq Oasis 235-6books 296

Black September 265boat travel 323boat trips 199-200books 248, 250, 278

birdwatching 296crafts 284culture 278flora 293health 329hiking 311history 251, 260, 267Petra 188rock climbing 311Seven Pillars of Wisdom

209, 210, 213-15, 234, 250, 262

wildlife 296border crossings 320-3budget 17Burckhardt, Jean Louis 171,

261, 262Burdah Rock Bridge 215bus travel 324business hours 17, 313-14

Ccalligraphy 65, 89camel races 54camel trekking 217-18,

308, 22canyoning 130car travel 324-6Cardo Maximus 83castles 10, 18, see

also desert castlesAl-Wu’ira 190-1Castle of Herod the

Great 138

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344

IND

EX C-H

castles continuedKarak Castle 143-4, 11Qala’at Ar-Rabad

(Ajloun Castle) 87Qatrana 226Shobak Castle 153Tafila 147

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesCave of Seven Sleepers

(Ahl al-Kahf) 73Iraq al-Amir 72Lot’s Cave 119, 273

Cedar Pride 35, 32cell phones 16, 315children, travel with

36-7, 56Christianity 259-60churches & cathedrals

Cathedral (Jerash) 84Church of SS Lot &

Procopius 136Church of St Cosmos &

St Damianus 82Church of St Stephen

139-40Church of the

Apostles 128Moses Memorial

Church 134-5Petra Church 168Shrine of the Beheading

of John the Baptist (Latin Church) 128

St George’s Church 126-7Churchill, Winston 242, 264cinemas 64-5Citadel 45-8climate 16, 21-3, 309, see

also individual regionscoffee 290-1Colonnaded Street 166consulates 309-10copperware 285coral 208costs 307, 312courses

cooking 54, 179, 291language 54, 312

crafts 20, 284-7Amman 65-7Iraq al-Amir 72Madaba 132Mukawir (Machaerus)

138, 139

Salt 102Wadi Musa 187

credit cards 313cruises 199-200Crusades, the 141-2, 258,

259, 261, see also castles

culture 275-80currency 16customs regulations 309cycling 308, 324

Amman 55Dana Biosphere Reserve

150

DDana Biosphere Reserve

147-52, 13Dana Museum 148dangers, see safetyDar As Saraya

Museum 91-2Darat al-Funun 50Dead Sea 10, 109-13, 272,

10, 22Dead Sea Highway 39,

106-20, 107Dead Sea Museum 115Dead Sea Panoramic

Complex 115-16Dead Sea Ultra

Marathon 21Decapolis 82Decumanus Maximus 97desert castles 231, 240,

see also castlesQasr al-Azraq 234-6, 19Qasr al-Hallabat

Fort 230Qasr al-Mushatta 240-2Qasr al-Tuba 245Qasr Aseikhin 245Qasr Burqu 245-6Qasr Deir al-Kahf 244Qasr Kharana 239-40Qasr Mushash 245Qasr ’Uweinid 237Qusayr Amra 238, 13Umm al-Jimal 242-4

Desert Highway 40, 193, 225-6

Dhiban 141diarrhoea 330, 331Dibeen Forest

Reserve 86-7digital photography 314disabilities, travellers

with 316discount cards 315Diseh 224-5

diving 12, 29-35, 31, 12, 32Aqaba 199, 205costs 33diving sites 35internet resources 33Red Sea 12, 29-35, 31, 12responsible diving 30safety 33-4south coast 207-8

Djinn Blocks 159dolmens 137, 252, 15drinking & nightlife, see

individual locationsdrinks 290-1driving, see car travel

EEastern Desert Highway

40, 227, 241-6economy 248ecotourism 298-300Eid al-Adha 23Eid al-Fitr 22electricity 309embassies 309-10embroidery 284emergencies 17entertainment, see

individual locationsenvironment 292-6environmental issues 110,

235, 297-8etiquette 250, 275, 289events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17

FFaisal 263, 264fauna 19-20, 211ferry travel 323festivals & events 21-3

Amman 56Dead Sea Ultra

Marathon 21Jerash 85Jerash Festival 22Jordan Running

Adventure Race 23films 248Five Pillars of Islam 283flora 19-20, 211, 293food 288-90, 310-11, 26

Bedouin 288-9cooking courses 54,

179, 291customs 289Ramadan 290vegetarian travellers 290

football 65Forbidden Love 279Forum (Amman) 49Forum (Jerash) 80frescoes 238, 239Fuheis 74

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 311geography 292-6Great Temple 167Gulf War 267-8

HHadrian’s Arch 79-80Hallabat 230-1Hammam as-Sarah 230-3Hammamat Ma’in 116-17hammams 18-19, 308, see

also hot springsAmman 55Aqaba 201Hammamat Ma’in 116Wadi Hasa 146-7Wadi Musa 179

health 328-32books 329insurance 328vaccinations 328-9websites 329

Hejaz Railway 54, 263hepatitis 330Herod the Great 255Herodus (Zara) Spring 114High Place of Sacrifice 161hiking 13, 20, 308, 310-11

Ajloun Forest Reserve 90Azraq Oasis 236Dana Biosphere Reserve

148-50Dibeen Forest Reserve

86-7Hammamat Ma’in 117Mujib Biosphere Reserve

117-18Mukawir (Machaerus)

138Petra 170-6Shobak 153Siq al-Barid (Little

Petra) 191Wadi ash-Shu’aib

102-3Wadi Rum 218-19

Hippodrome 80

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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345IN

DEX H

-M

history 251-68Arab nationalism 262-4archaeology 269-71biblical sites 272-4books 251, 260, 267Christianity 259-60Crusades, the 261early settlements 252-4holy wars 261Iraq relations 267-8Islam 260, 282Israel & the Palestinian

Territories 264-7King’s Highway 256Nabataean people

257-8Ottoman Empire 260,

261-2Romans 82, 256, 257,

258-9Umayyad dynasty 232,

258, 260hitching 326HIV 330holidays 314-15holy wars 261horse-riding 308

Petra 176Wadi Rum 218

hot-air ballooning 219hot springs 18-19, 308, see

also hammamsAl-Himma

(Mukheiba) 96Hammamat Afra 147Hammamat

Burbita 146-7Hammamat Ma’in 116-17Herodus (Zara)

Spring 114House of Mary the

Egyptian 104Humaiyma 225Hussein, King 264, 265,

266, 267

Iimmigration 319insurance 311-12, 325-6internet access 312internet resources 17

archaeology 270health 329

Iraq al-Amir 72Irbid 39, 75, 91-4, 76, 92Islam 260, 281-3

holidays 314-15Israel 255itineraries 24-8, 24, 25,

27, 28

Petra 158Wadi Rum 211

JJebel Haroun 272Jebel Rum 213Jebel Umm al-Biyara 272Jebel Umm al-Ishrin 213Jerash 9, 77-86, 78, 9

accommodation 75, 84-5

climate 75food 75, 85highlights 76tourist information 86travel seasons 75travel to/from 86travel within 86

Jerash Festival 22jewellery 285-7John the Baptist 256Jordan Museum 45Jordan National Gallery of

Fine Arts 53-4Jordan Natural History

Museum 91Jordan Running Adventure

Race 23Jordan Valley 39, 75,

94-105, 76

KKarak 141-6, 142Karak Castle 143-4Kastron Mefaa 140keffiyah 276Khazali Siq 215Khirbet Feynan 150Khirbet Tannour 146-7Khirbet Tannour Temple

146Khouri, Norma 279King Abdullah 262, 263,

264, 267King Abdullah Mosque

50-3King Hussein 264, 265,

266, 267King’s Highway 15, 39, 121,

256, 15

Llanguage 333-7

alphabet 336courses 54, 312emergencies 335

Lawrence of Arabia 132, 248Lawrence, TE 20, 210, 233,

262, 263

Lawrence’s House (Al-Qsair) 215

Seven Pillars of Wisdom 209, 210, 213-15, 234, 250, 262

legal matters 312lesbian travellers 311Lisan Peninsula 119literature, see booksLittle Petra 190-2Lot’s Cave 119, 273Lowest Point on Earth

Museum 119

MMa’an 225-6Madaba 39, 121, 123-34,

124accommodation 121,

128-31drinking 131-2food 121, 131-2highlights 122shopping 132sights 126-8travel to/from 133-4travel within 134walking tour 129, 129

Madaba Archaeological Park I & Virgin Mary Church 127

Madaba Museum 128Mafraq 241magazines 315maps 312Mar Elias 87-8markets 66measures 315medical services 329-30Mesha Stele 140mobile phones 16, 315Monastery (Al-Deir) 169-70money 16, 17, 312-13mosaics 284-5, 11

Archaeological Park II (Burnt Palace) 127

Church of SS Lot & Procopius 136

Church of the Apostles 128

King’s Highway Portrait 135

Madaba Archaeological Park I & Virgin Mary Church 127

Madaba Institute for Mosaic Art & Restoration (MIMAR) 127

St George’s Church 126-7

Umm ar-Rasas 139-40Moses’ Spring (Ayoun

Musa) 136Moses’ Spring (Wadi

Musa) 185mosques

Abu Darwish Mosque 54Al-Husseiny Mosque 49Jerash 81-2, 84King Abdullah Mosque

50-3Mamluk mosque 100Mamluk Palace &

Mosque 144Ottoman mosque 98

motorcycle travel 324-6Mt Nebo 134-6, 274, 12mud bathing 111Mujib Biosphere Reserve

117-19, 14Mukawir (Machaerus)

137-9museums

Al-Habis Museum 168Aqaba Museum 199Beit Arar 92Dana Museum 148Dar As Saraya Museum

91-2Darat al-Funun 50Dead Sea Museum 115Duke’s Diwan 49-50Folklore Museum 49Jordan Museum 45Jordan National Gallery

of Fine Arts 53-4Jordan Natural History

Museum 91La Storia Tourism

Complex 135Lowest Point on Earth

Museum 119Madaba Museum 128Military Museum 54Museum of Archaeology

& Anthropology 91Museum of Popular

Traditions 49Museum (Jerash) 84 Museum (Umm Qais) 98Nabataean Museum 168Royal Automobile

Museum 54Salt Archaeological

Museum 102Shrine of the Beheading

of John the Baptist (Latin Church) 128

Vaulted Gallery 80Visitor Centre Museum

(Wadi Rum) 211

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346

IND

EX N-S

NNabataean Museum 168Nabataean sites

Alameleh Inscriptions 215

Humaiyma 225Khirbet Tannour

Temple 146Lawrence’s House

(Al-Qasir) 215Nabataean Temple 213Nawatef Trail 149Petra 9, 40, 155-78,

156, 160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3

Siq al-Barid (Little Petra) 190-2

Nabataeans 157, 160, 255, 256, 257-8

national parks, see nature reserves

nature reserves 89, 295-6, 294

Ajloun Forest Reserve 88-91

Azraq Wetland Reserve 236

Burqu Reserve 229Dana Biosphere

Reserve 147-52Dibeen Forest

Reserve 86-7Mujib Biosphere Reserve

117-19, 14Red Sea Aqaba Marine

Park 31, 194, 205Shaumari Wildlife

Reserve 229, 236-7Wadi Rum Protected

Area 194, 209-20, 222-3, 212

newspapers 315Noor, Queen 265, 277 North Gate (Jerash) 83North Theatre (Jerash) 83Nureddin 261Nymphaeum (Jerash) 84

OOdeon 49opening hours 17, 313-14oryx 236Ottoman Empire 260,

261-2Ottoman Village (Umm

Qais) 98

PPalestine Liberation

Organisation (PLO) 264, 265, 267

Palestinian refugees 280parks & gardens

Royal Botanic Garden 86passports 319Pella (Taqabat Fahl)

99-101, 99Petra 9, 40, 155-78, 156,

160-1, 169, 8-9, 162-3 see also Wadi Musa

accommodation 155climate 155drinking 155, 176food 155, 176highlights 156internet resources 177sights 158-70toilets 177tourist information 177tours 179-82travel seasons 155travel to/from 157travel within 158, 177-8

Petra Church 168petroglyphys 215Pharaoh’s Island 205photography 314planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 17calendar of events 21-3children 36-7internet resources 17itineraries 24-8Jordan basics 16-17travel seasons 16, 21-3

plants 19-20, 211, 293politics 249-50population 249postal services 314public holidays 314-15

QQala’at Ar-Rabad (Ajloun

Castle) 87Qasr al-Abad 72Qasr al-Azraq 234, 19Qasr al-Bint 167Qasr al-Hallabat Fort 230Qasr al-Mushatta 240-1Qasr al-Tuba 245Qasr Aseikhin 245Qasr Burqu 245-6Qasr Deir al-Kahf 244Qasr Kharana 239-40Qasr Mushash 245

Qasr ’Uweinid 237Qatrana 226Queen Noor 265, 277Queen Rania 277Quran 281Qusayr Amra 237-8

Rrabies 332radio 315Rainbow Street 50Ramadan 21-2, 314-15Rania, Queen 277Red Sea 12, 29-35, 31, 12refugees 280religion 249, 281-3, see

also Christianity, IslamRhotorios Monastery 104-5Rift Valley 108, 253, 292Roberts, David 186rock climbing 219, 308Roman Army & Chariot

Experience 81Roman Mausoleum 98Roman sites 9, 18, 259, 9,

14, 26Abila (Quwayliba) 94Ar-Rabba 141Cardo Maximus 83Church of St Cosmos &

St Damianus 82Forum (Amman) 49Forum (Jerash) 80Hadrian’s Arch 79Hippodrome 80North Gate 83North Theatre 83Nymphaeum

(Amman) 49Nymphaeum (Jerash) 84Odeon 49Pella (Taqabat Fahl)

99-101Qasr Aseikhin 245Qasr Burqu 245-6Roman aqueduct 72Roman Theatre 48-9, 26South Decumanus 81-2South Gate 80South Theatre 81Temple of Artemis 83Temple of Hercules 45-8Temple of Zeus 80-1Umm al-Jimal 242-4Umm ar-Rasas 139-40Umm Qais (Gadara) 97-8Western Baths 84

Roman Theatre 48-9, 26

Romans 82, 258-9, 256, 257

Royal Botanic Garden 86Royal Society for the

Conservation of Nature (RSCN) 295

Royal Tombs 164-6Rum 213running 21, 23, 308

SSafawi 245safety 302-3

crime 303Dead Sea Highway 108desert 229diving 33-4, 194-5hiking 123, 157Jordan Valley 76-7minefields 303Petra 157road 67, 326scams 303

Saladin 153, 259, 261, 338Salome 137-8Salt 101-3, 101Salt Archaeological

Museum 102scams 303Seven Pillars of Wisdom

209, 210, 213-15, 234, 250, 262

Sextius Florentinus Tomb 166

Shaumari Wildlife Reserve 236-7

Shiites 282Shobak 152-4Shobak Castle 153shopping 284-7, see also

individual locationsShrine of the Beheading of

John the Baptist (Latin Church) 128

Shuneh al-Janubiyyeh (South Shuna) 103

Siq al-Barid (Little Petra) 190-2

Siq (Petra) 159-60Siq Umm Tawaqi 215-16Site of Jesus’ Baptism 104Six Day War 264-5smoking 315snake bites 332snorkelling 29-35, 31, 32

Aqaba 199, 205Red Sea 29-35south coast 207-8

Sodom 120South Decumanus 81-2

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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347IN

DEX S

-Z South Gate 80South Theatre 81Southern Tetrapylon 84spa treatments 111-12,

116-17, 19sport 65Spring of John The

Baptist 104St George’s Church 126-7Street of Facades 160-1Sunnis 282swimming

Amman 54Aqaba 199Dead Sea 110-11

TTafila 147taxis 70, 71, 326-7tea 290-1telephone services 16, 315Tell al-Kharrar 274Tell Elias 104Tell Hesban 136Temple of Artemis 83Temple of Hercules 45-8Temple of Winged Lions 168Temple of Zeus 80-1terrorism 302Theatre (Petra) 161-4time 16, 316tipping 313toilets 316tombs

Christian Tombs of Moghar al-Nassara 170

Garden Tomb 171

Lion Tomb 170Monastery (Al-Deir)

169-70Obelisk Tomb 159Painted House 174Petra 160Roman Mausoleum 98Roman Soldier’s

Tomb 171Royal Tombs 164-6Sextius Florentinus

Tomb 166Street of Facades 160-1tomb caves (Abila) 94Treasury (Al-Khazneh)

160tourist information 316tours 327

Amman 55-6Aqaba 199, 201hiking 310-11Petra 179-82Wadi Musa 179-82Wadi Rum 219-20

trains 54, 224, 263travel to/from Jordan

319-23travel within Jordan 323-7 travellers cheques 313Treasury (Al-Khazneh) 160trekking, see hikingtuberculosis 332TV 315typhoid 332

UUmayyad dynasty 232,

258, 260Umayyad Palace 47

Umm al-Jimal 242-4, 243Umm ar-Rasas 139-40Umm Qais (Gadara) 96-9,

274, 97, 14Unesco World Heritage

sites 250Dana Biosphere Reserve

147-52, 13Petra 9, 40, 155-78, 156,

160-1, 169, 8-9 Qusayr Amra 238Umm ar-Rasas 139-40Wadi Rum 40, 193, 209-

23, 212, 10

Vvacations 314-15Vaulted Gallery 80vegetarian travellers 290visas 16, 316-18volunteering 318

WWadi Araba 120Wadi as-Seer 72Wadi Hasa 146-7Wadi Jadid 15, 137, 15Wadi Mujib 140-1Wadi Musa 179-90, 180,

see also PetraWadi Rum 40, 193, 209-23,

212, 10walking, see hikingwalking tours

Amman 50-1, 51Aqaba 200, 200Madaba 129, 129Salt 102

water, drinking 330weather 16, 21-3, 309, see

also individual regionsweaving 284websites, see internet

resources weights 315West Theatre

(Umm Qais) 97 Western Baths 84wildlife reserves, see

nature reserveswildlife-watching

Aljoun Forest Reserve 88

books 296Dana Biosphere

Reserve 147Dibeen Forest

Reserve 86Mujib Biosphere

Reserve 117Shaumari Wildlife

Reserve 236Wadi Rum 211

wine 291Winston’s Hiccup 242women in Jordan 279-80women travellers 304-5work 318

YYarmouk Battleground 94yellow fever 332

ZZarqa 229-30

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348

NO

TES

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349N

OTES

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350

NO

TES

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351

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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