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433433

AUTHOR THANKSCharles Rawlings-WayThanks to the many generous, knowledge-able and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the road, especially the staff at the Hastings, Whanganui and New Plymouth i-SITEs who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for signing me up, and the in-house LP content deities who electrified this CMS Frankenstein. Humongous gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional co-authors – Lee, Sarah, Peter and Brett − who always bring the humour and the class. Most of all, thanks to Meg, Ione and Remy for holding the fort while I was away.

Brett AtkinsonThanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and informa-tion centre staff who patiently answered all my questions. Cheers to the innovative chefs and inspired craft brewers of New Zealand for sus-tenance on the road, and to Carol for support on occasional beach, island, capital city and Hobbit-inspired getaways. Thanks to my fellow authors, the wittiest crew one could aspire to work with, and my appreciation to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for the opportunity to again explore my Kiwi backyard.

Sarah Bennett & Lee SlaterThanks to everyone who helped us on the road,including tourism organisations, DOC and visitor centre staff, business operators and travellers.Thanks also to friends and family who provided a park for the campervan, a fridge for the flagon, and company on vital research mis-sions. Finally, thanks to our fellow NZ authors for the camaraderie, as always, and Tasmin Waby for leading the team.

Peter DragicevichI owe a great deal of thanks to Hamish, Jill and John Blennerhassett in Wanaka, Scott and So-phie Kennedy in Queenstown, Michael Wilson in Invercargill, and Joanne and Phil Cole on Waiheke Island. Special thanks to Michael Wood-house for his comradeship on the road in Otago. And to all of my Auckland friends and family who enthusiastically supped and gorged with me in the city’s bars and restaurants, good work!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Cathedral Cove, Coro-mandel Peninsula, Dmitry Serbin / Shutter-stock ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

434

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand’s North Island guidebook was researched and written by Charles Rawlings-Way, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Slater. The previous two editions were researched and written by the same writers. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Kate Kiely, Tracy WhitmeySenior Cartographers Diana Von Holdt, Julie SheridanBook Designers Cam Ashley, Wendy WrightAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dob-

bin, Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Elizabeth Jones, Jodie Martire, Kristin Odijk, Susan Paterson, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda TurnerAssisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Corey Hutchison, Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Liisa Atva, Andi Jones, Karyn Noble, Diana Saengkham, Eleanor Simpson, Angela Tinson

435©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Index309 Road 197-8

AAA (Automobile

Association) 425Acacia Bay 250accommodation 410, see

also individual locationsbackcountry campsites

38, 39, 411backcountry huts 37-8, 411budget 412conservation campsites

39, 411family 50

activities, see also individual activities, locations

accessible 419adventure sports 40-5extreme 23

adventure sports 40-5Ahipara 152-3air travel 422-3, 423-4airlines 422-3, 423-4airports 422Anaura Bay 317Anchor Bay 114animals 391-5, see

also birds, zoos & wildlife reserves, individual species

Anzac Bay 206aquariums

Goat Island Marine Discovery Centre 115

Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium 63

National Aquarium of New Zealand 333

Tongariro National Trout Centre 257

Arahaki Lagoon 289Aramoana Hill 233

area codes 19, 418Aroha Island 142art deco architecture 15, 24art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 398-403, 404-8arts festivals 295, see also

festivals & eventsArtists Open Studios &

Festival of Glass 229Auckland Arts Festival 75Hamilton Gardens Arts

Festival 164Headland Sculpture on

the Gulf 97NZ Tattoo & Art Festival

216Taranaki International

Arts Festival 216Tauranga Arts Festival 295Whanganui Literary

Festival 229WOMAD 216

Atene 233ATMs 416Auckland 9, 15, 57-116, 58,

60, 64-5, 68, 70, 73, 76, 79, 9

accommodation 56, 75-80activities 69-71children, travel with 75climate 56drinking & nightlife 86-9entertainment 89-90festivals & events 72-3, 75food 56, 80-6highlights 58history 57information 91-2itineraries 57shopping 90-1sights 57-69tours 71-2travel seasons 56travel to/from 92-3travel within 93-4walking tours 72, 74, 74

Auckland City Limits 20Auckland Pride Festival 73Awakino 186-7

Bbabysitting 51backpacker buses 425bars 23, 48bathrooms 419Bay of Islands 10, 117, 130-

45, 118-19, 131, 10accommodation 117climate 117food 117highlights 118travel seasons 117travel to/from 120

Bay of Plenty 272, 292-312, 274

accommodation 272climate 272food 272highlights 274travel seasons 272travel to/from 273

Baylys Beach 157-8beaches 21

Ahipara 152Auckland 71Cape Reinga 150Cathedral Cove 202child-friendly 51Great Barrier Island 103Hahei Beach 202Hawke’s Bay 343Horowhenua 243Hot Water Beach 203Karikari Peninsula 149Kawhia 179Mangawhai 120Matakana 114Mount Beach 298Napier 334New Chum’s Beach 198Ngarunui Beach 173Ocean Beach 173

Orewa 112Otama Beach 198Pacific Coast Hwy 316surf safety 415Waiheke Island 96Waihi Beach 206Warkworth 114Whanganui 228

beer 23, 48-9, see also breweries

festivals 356bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingbird parks, see also zoos &

wildlife reservesKatikati Bird Gardens 303Otorohanga Kiwi House &

Native Bird Park 181Wingspan National Bird of

Prey Centre 277birds 393, see also zoos

& wildlife reserves, individual species

birdwatchingMiranda 191Thames 192Waikanae 370

boat travel 423, 424, see also canoeing & kayaking

books 378environment 391hiking 33

Bream Bay 122-3breastfeeding 51breweries 48

Auckland 89Carterton 375Gisborne 20, 321Hamilton 168Hawke’s Bay 342Martinborough 371Palmerston North 240Paraparaumu 369Riverhead 110Taupo 255-6Urenui 219

436

IND

EX B- F

breweries continuedWaiheke Island 96Wellington 364Whenuakite 201

budget 19bungy jumping 40

Auckland 71Rotorua 277Taupo 250-1

Buried Village 291bus travel 424-5, 428bushwalking, see hiking &

walking, trampingbusiness hours 417

CCable Bay 147cafes 47-8Cambridge 175-7campervan travel 425-7

road distances 426road rules 428

camping 323canoeing & kayaking 42, 45

Auckland 69, 71Cambridge 176Hahei 202Mountain Valley 334National Park Village

266-7New Plymouth 216Ohakune 268-9Ohope 309-10Paihia 138Puhoi 113Raglan 170Rotorua 281Taupo 250Tauranga 294Tauranga Bay 146Urupukapuka Island 141Waiheke Island 97Wellington 352Whanganui National

Park 235Whangarei 125

canyoningThames 192Waitakere Ranges 108

Cape Kidnappers 343Cape Palliser 372Cape Reinga 149-51

car travel 19, 425-8drink driving 416hitchhiking 428rental companies 427road distances 426road rules 428vehicle purchasing 427-8

Carterton 374-5carving 399, 401Castlepoint 374Cathedral Cove 202, 36cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves & caving 40

Abbey Caves 123-4Aranui Cave 182Kawiti Glowworm Caves

141Muriwai’s Cave 306Ruakuri Cave 182Ruatapu Cave 252Waitomo Caves 10,

181-4, 10cell phones 18, 418-19Central Plateau region

244-71accommodation 244climate 244food 244highlights 246travel seasons 244travel to/from 245

children, travel with 50-1accommodation 50Auckland 75Wellington 357

churches & cathedralsChrist Church 134Church of Sts Peter &

Paul 113Hiona St Stephen’s

Church 311Holy Trinity Cathedral

62-3Putiki Church 227-8St Faith’s Anglican

Church 275St Joseph’s Church 233St Mary’s Church 62-3,

153, 317St Patrick’s Cathedral 60St Paul’s Church 137-8,

174Taranaki Cathedral

Church of St Mary 214cinema 378, 402, 405, see

also filmscities 21Claris 103classical music 406-7

climate 24-7, 413, see also individual regions

climate change 423climbing, see rock climbingcoffee 47-8Colville 197consulates 413-14Cook, Captain James 382Coopers Beach 147Coroglen 201Coromandel Forest Park

195Coromandel Peninsula

15, 160, 189-209, 162, 190, 15

accommodation 160climate 160highlights 162history 189travel seasons 160

Coromandel Town 194-6costs 412, 414Craters of the Moon 248credit cards 417culture 378-9, 396-403currency 18, 417customs regulations 412cycling 424, see

also mountain bikingBay of Islands 132Cambridge 176Gisborne 323Hauraki Rail Trail 191Hawke’s Bay 335Mangawhai 121Martinborough 371Nga Haerenga, New

Zealand Cycle Trail 41, 335

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail 132

Rotorua 282Taupo 249Turangi 257Waiheke Island 97Wairarapa, the 371

Ddance 402dance music 408dangers, see safetyDargaville 158-9Days Bay 360Department of

Conservation (DOC) 411disabilities, travellers

with 419discount cards 412-13

diving 42-5, see also snorkelling

Auckland 71Bay of Islands 130Goat Island Marine

Reserve 115-16Great Barrier Island 103Kerikeri 143Paihia 139Tairua 204Tauranga 294Tutukaka Coast 128Whakatane 306-7

dolphins, swimming with 130, 294, 306-7, 393

Doneraille Park 325Doubtless Bay 147-8drink driving 416drinking 46-9, 414, see

also breweries, wine regions, individual locations

beer 48-9shouting 48water 415

driving licences 425DVDs 415

Eearthquakes 391East Cape 17, 316-29East Cape Lighthouse 317East Coast 313-44, 314-15

accommodation 313climate 313food 313highlights 314-15travel seasons 313travel to/from 316

economy 378-9electricity 413embassies 413-14emergencies 19environmental issues 392,

394-5etiquette

shouting drinks 48visiting marae 400

exchange rates 19extreme sports 23, 40-5

Ffarmers markets 48-9festivals & events 24-7

Art Deco Weekend 334Artists Open Studios &

Festival of Glass 229Auckland City Limits

20, 73

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

437IN

DEX F- K

Bay of Islands Jazz & Blues Festival 133

Beervana 356Festival of Lights 216Fringe NZ 355gay & lesbian 414Matariki 356National Jazz Festival

294New Zealand Festival

24, 355New Zealand

International Film Festival (NZIFF) 75, 356

NZ International Comedy Festival 75, 355

NZ Tattoo & Art Festival 216

Pasifika Festival 73Rhythm & Vines 323Russell Birdman 133Splore 73Taranaki International

Arts Festival 216Toast Martinborough 372Waitangi Day 24, 139Wellington Sevens 355WOMAD 25-6, 216World of WearableArt

Awards Show 27, 356film festivals 75, 356film locations 177, 186, 363films 378, 402, 405, see

also Hobbit, Lord of the Rings, film festivals, film locations

Finn, Neil 174, 407Finn, Tim 174, 407fishing 258

Coromandel Town 194Kawhia 180Mountain Valley 334Rotorua 282Taupo 252-3Tauranga 294Turangi 257Whangamata 205

flag debate 379Fletcher Bay 197food 23, 46-9, 414

best restaurants 47budget 414family dining 51farmers markets 48-9festivals 97, 139, 186,

200, 323, 356, 372local delicacies 48, 48vegetarian & vegan 47

football, see rugby

Forgotten World Hwy 223Foxton 243Frying Pan Lake 289

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgannets 110, 343gay travellers 414

Auckland 73, 87Gemstone Bay 202geography 390-1geology 390-1geysers 391Gisborne 319-25, 320glowworms 182golf

Rotorua 282Taupo 253

Great Barrier Island 103-7, 104

Great Walks 34, 237, 37Lake Waikaremoana

Track 326-7, 328-9Tongariro Northern

Circuit 261, 263Whanganui Journey 235

Greytown 374

HHahei 201-3haka 401Hamilton 163-9, 166hang gliding 41hangi 281Hastings 338-43, 339Hauraki Gulf 9, 94-107, 9Hawera 226-7Hawke’s Bay 16, 329-44,

330, 16health 414-15Helena Bay 129Helensville 110-11Hells Gate 289Hicks Bay 317hiking & walking 22, 32-9,

37, 35accommodation 37-9books & resources 33maps 33planning 32-4responsible tramping 38safety 33Te Araroa 39websites 33

Hillary Trail 107-8hip-hop 407Hiruharama 233

history 21, 380-920th century 387-9books 386connections to Britain

387-8European settlement

381-4Land Wars 384-6Māori settlement 380-1,

396-8websites 380, 385, 386

hitching 428Hobbit, The 177, 186Hokianga 153-6holidays 417Hone Heke 137Horeke 154Horopito 266horse racing 73horse riding 41

Ahipara 152Baylys Beach 158Bay of Islands 131East Cape 317Hastings 339-40Mountain Valley 334Ohakune 268Paekakariki 369Pakiri 116Palmerston North 243Rotorua 282Whanganui 229

hot springsKawhia 179Matamata 178Miranda 191Morere Springs Scenic

Reserve 325Mt Maunganui 298Taupo 247, 249-50Turangi 258Waihi 207Waikite Valley 291Waiwera 112

Hot Water Beach 203, 250hot-air ballooning 164Hukutaia Domain 311hypothermia 415

Iimmigration 386infectious diseases 415Inferno Crater Lake 289Inglewood 223insurance 415-16

car & motorcycle 427health 414travel 415

internet access 416

internet resourcesaccessibility 419accommodation 410car hire 427gay & lesbian travellers

414government travel advice

418hiking 33vehicle hire 426work 421

IRD numbers 421i-SITE 419itineraries 28-31, 28, 30,

31, see also individual locations

JJackson, Sir Peter 405jetboating 42

Bay of Islands 132Hahei 202Opotiki 311Rotorua 279Taumarunui 187Taupo 252Whanganui National Park

235-6

KKai Iwi Lakes 157Kaitaia 151-2Kaituna River 281, 44Kapiti Coast 367-70Kapiti Island 368Karangahake Gorge 208-9Karekare 108Karikari Peninsula 148-9Katikati 302-3kauris 114, 156-7, 159, 198Kawakawa 141Kawau Island 102-3Kaweka J 344Kawhia 179-80kea 393Kennedy Bay 197Kerikeri 141-5, 142King Country 179-89, 165Kingitanga 180Kiritehere 185kiteboarding 42kitesurfing 42kiwifruits 304kiwis 181, 277, 393Kohukohu 153-4Koriniti 233Kuaotunu 198Kuirau Park 275Kumeu 109-10

438

IND

EX L-M

LLake Ferry 372Lake Karapiro 176Lake Rotorua 275Lake Tarawera 289Lake Taupo Region 244,

245-60, 246accommodation 244climate 244food 244highlights 246travel to/from 245travel seasons 244

Lake Tutira 330Lake Waikareiti 327Lake Waikaremoana Track

326, 328-9, 35Land Wars 385language 18, 429-32legal matters 416Leigh 115-16lesbian travellers 414

Auckland 73, 87Levin 243literature 402-3, 404, see

also booksLorde 408Lord of the Rings, The

177, 405L&P 209Lye, Len 20

MMahia Peninsula 325Maitai Bay 149Maketu 303-4Manawatu Gorge 243Mangawhai 120-2Mangonui 147-8, 29Māori language 429-32Māori people 153, 12

arts 247, 276, 281culture 12, 21, 396-403,

404, 12food 281language 429-32regional highlights 72,

122, 163, 220, 250, 275, 319, 368

Māori Wars 385maps 416

hiking 33

marae 400East Cape 326Kawhia 179-80Maniaroa 187Motuti 153Papatea Bay 316Te Araroa 317Wellington 351Whakatane 305-6

marijuana 416marine mammals 393-5markets 23Marokopa 185Martinborough 371-4Masterton 374-6Matakana 114-15Matakohe 159Matamata 177-8Matapouri 128Matauri Bay 145-6Matheson Bay 115Matiu-Somes Island 360Mayor Island 302measures 415medical services 415medications 414, 415Mill Bay 147Miranda 189-91moa 392-3mobile phones 18, 418-19Moeatoa 185Mohaka Viaduct 330Mokau 186-7, 220Mokena Geyser 179money 18, 19, 416-17moneychangers 417Moriori people 381motorcycle travel 425-8

bike rental 427road distances 426road rules 428

Motuihe Island 95Motuora Island 102Moturiki Island 298Motutapu Island 95Motuti 153mountain biking 41, 43,

see also cyclingAuckland 20Great Barrier Island 103Helensville 110Mt Te Aroha 178National Park Village

266-7Ohakune 268, 269Opotiki 311Rotorua 280Taupo 249

Wellington 352Whanganui National

Park 237mountaineering 41-2Moutoa Island 233Moutuhora (Whale Island)

309movies, see filmsMt Eden 61-2Mt Hikurangi 317Mt Karioi 173Mt Maunganui 298-302,

299, 36Mt Ngauruhoe 261Mt Pirongia 173Mt Pureora 188Mt Ruapehu 260-1Mt Taranaki (Egmont

National Park) 220-2Mt Titiraupenga 188Mt Tongariro 261Muriwai Beach 110Museum of Waitangi

20, 137museums & galleries 22

Aratoi Wairarapa Museum of Art & History 375

Auckland Art Gallery 59Auckland Museum 62Bohemian Museum 113Butler Point Whaling

Museum 147-8Cambridge Museum 175Central Hawke’s Bay

Settler’s Museum 344child-friendly 51Chronicle Glass Studio

227City Gallery Wellington

347Classic Flyers NZ 292Classics Museum 164Cobblestones Museum

374Dargaville Museum 158Dowse Art Museum 350East Coast Museum of

Technology 321Firth Tower 178Fun Ho! National Toy

Museum 223Gold Discovery Centre

207Govett-Brewster Art

Gallery 214Gumdiggers Park 150Hastings City Art Gallery

339Kauri Museum 159

Kawhia Regional Museum & Gallery 180

KD’s Elvis Presley Museum 226

Kiwi North 124Len Lye Centre 20, 211Mangawhai Museum 120McCahon House 107MOTAT (Museum of

Transport & Technology) 67

MTG Hawke’s Bay 331-2Museum of Waitangi

20, 137National Army Museum

271New Zealand Cricket

Museum 350New Zealand Maritime

Museum 61New Zealand Rugby

Museum 13, 238-9, 13Old Library Arts Centre

123Old School Arts Centre

169Opotiki Museum 311Paeroa Museum 209Percy Thomson Gallery

223Puke Ariki 211Rewa’s Village 143Rotorua Museum 273,

275Russell Museum 134Sarjeant on the Quay

227School of Mines &

Mineralogical Museum 191

Shalfoon & Francis Museum 311

Southward Car Museum 369

Tairawhiti Museum 321Taranaki Aviation,

Transport & Technology Museum 220

Taranaki Pioneer Village 224

Taupo Museum 247Tauranga Art Gallery 292Tawhiti Museum 226Te Aroha Museum 178Te Awamutu Museum 174Te Manawa 239Te Papa 351Te Uru Waitakere

Contemporary Gallery 107Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

439IN

DEX M

- PTorpedo Bay Navy

Museum 66Volcanic Activity Centre

247Waiheke Museum &

Historic Village 97Waihi Arts Centre &

Museum 207Waikato Museum 163Waimarie Centre 227Waitomo Caves

Discovery Centre 182-3

Wallace Arts Centre 69Warkworth District’s

Museum 114Wellington Museum 350Western Bay Museum

303Weta Cave 350Whakatane District

Museum 306Whanganui Regional

Museum 227Whangarei Art Museum

123Wool Shed 375

music 89, 406-8music festivals

Auckland City Limits 73Grey Lynn Park

Festival 75International Jazz

Festival 97Jazz & Blues Festival 133Laneway Festival 72Manawatu International

Jazz & Blues Festival 240

Music in Parks 73National Jazz Festival

294Rhythm & Vines 323Splore 73Taupo Summer Concert

253Waiheke IslandWanderlust 253Wellington Jazz Festival

355WOMAD 216

MV Rena 300

NNapier 15, 330-8, 332, 15 National Aquarium of New

Zealand 333National Jazz Festival

294-5National Park Village 266-8

national parks & reserves 395, 394, see also zoos & wildlife reserves

Aorangi (Haurangi) Forest Park 372

Bellbird Bush Scenic Reserve 330

Boundary Stream Scenic Reserve 330

Coromandel Forest Park 195

Hemi Matenga Memorial Park Scenic Reserve 370

Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park 294

Long Bay Regional Park 111

Mahurangi Regional Park 113

Mangapohue Natural Bridge Scenic Reserve 185

Mimiwhangata Coastal Park 129

Morere Springs Scenic Reserve 325

Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) 220-2

Ngaiotonga Scenic Reserve 130

Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve 188

Omahuta Forest 145Opouahi Scenic Reserve

330Otatara Pā Historic

Reserve 333Parry Kauri Park 114Piripiri Caves Scenic

Reserve 185Pirongia Forest Park 173Puketi Forest 145Pureora Forest Park 188Rangikapiti Pa Historic

Reserve 147Redwoods

Whakarewarewa Forest 277

Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve 137

Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari 175

Scandrett Regional Park 113

Shakespear Regional Park 111

Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve 330

Tawharanui Regional Park 114

Te Paki Recreation Reserve 149-50

Te Urewera National Park 326-9

Tongariro National Park 260-4

Trounson Kauri Park 157Waipatiki Scenic Reserve

330Waipoua Forest 156Wairere Boulders Nature

Park 154Wenderholm Regional

Park 112Whangamumu Scenic

Reserve 130Whanganui National Park

232-8Whangaruru North Head

Scenic Reserve 130Wharerata State Forest

325Whirinaki Forest Park

289White Pine Bush Scenic

Reserve 330New Plymouth 211-19, 215New Zealand Festival 24New Zealand Rugby

Museum 13, 238-9, 13newspapers 415Nga Haerenga (New

Zealand Cycle Trail) 41Ngarupupu Point 185Ngawi 372Ngunguru 128Ninety Mile Beach 149-51Northland region 117-59,

118-19accommodation 117climate 117food 117highlights 118travel seasons 117travel to/from 120

Northland War 137

OOakura 224-5Ohakune 268-70Ohinemutu 275Ohope 309-10Okato 225Omahuta Forest 145Omapere 155-9One Tree Hill 67Onepoto Bay 317Onga Onga 343-4opening hours 417opera 406-7Operiki Pa 233Opito 198

Opononi 155-9Opotiki 311-12Opoutere 205Opunake 225-6Orakei Korako 252Orewa 112Oriuwaka Ecological Area

289Orokawa Bay 206Otorohanga 180-1Owhango 188-9

Ppa 112Paaku 204Pacific Coast Hwy 316-19Pacific Island people

culture 15Pasifika Festival 26

paddleboardingBay of Islands 131National Park Village 266Opoutere 205Raglan 170Tauranga 294Wellington 352

Paekakariki 369Paeroa 209Paihia 136-41, 138Pakiri 116Palmerston North 238-

43, 239Papamoa 302Papatea Bay 316paragliding 41

Hastings 340Paraparaumu 369-70parasailing 42

Bay of Islands 132Paritutu 214parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Albert Park 59Auckland Domain 62Bastion Point 63Brooklands Park 214Butterfly & Orchid

Garden 192Dead Dog Bay 96Eastwoodhill Arboretum

321Eden Garden 62Gisborne Botanic

Gardens 321Government Gardens

275Hamilton Gardens 163Jubilee Gardens 176

440

IND

EX P-T

parks & gardens continuedKuirau Park 275Monmouth Redoubt 293One Tree Hill 67Otari-Wilton’s Bush 337Parnell Rose Garden 62Parry Kauri Park 114Pukeahu National War

Memorial Park 20Pukeiti 220Pukekura Park 220Queen Elizabeth Park(Paekakariki) 369Rapaura Water Gardens

181Robbins Park 293Wellington Botanic

Gardens 347Western Springs 67Whangarei Quarry

Gardens 124Zealandia Sculpture

Garden 113Pasifika Festival 26passports 422Pauanui 203-4phonecards 419Piercy Island (Motukokako)

132Piha 108-9Pinnacles, the 195Pio Pio 186-7Pipiriki 233planning

budgeting 19calendar of events 24-7children 50-1internet resources 19itineraries 28-31, 28,

30, 31North Island regions

52-4NZ basics 18-19repeat visitors 20travel seasons 18, 24-7plants 391-3

pohutukawa 67, 17politics 378-9Poor Knights Islands 128-9population 379Port Charles 197postal services 417Poutu Point 159public holidays 417pubs 23, 48

Puhoi 113Pukeahu National War

Memorial Park 20Pukearuhe 219Puketi Forest 145Puketui Valley 204-5Pureora Forest Park

188, 43

Rradio 415rafting, see white-water

raftingRaglan 169-72, 171Rainbow Warrior 146Ranana 233Rangatira 368Rangipo Desert 270Rangiputa 149Rangiriri 161Rangitoto Island 95Raukokore 316-17Raurimu 266Rawene 154-5Rawhiti 130reggae 407regional parks, see national

parks & reservesreligion 398road rules 428rock climbing 42, 43

Hamilton 164Mt Maunganui 298Ohakune 269Raglan 169Rotorua 280Te Awamutu 174Turangi 258

rock music 407Rotokura Ecological

Reserve 269Rotoroa Island 101-2Rotorua 10, 272, 273-88,

274, 278, 290, 10accommodation 272,

283-5activities 277climate 272drinking & nightlife

286-7entertainment 287food 272, 285-6highlights 274history 273information 287-8itineraries 276shopping 287sights 273-7tours 282-3

travel seasons 272travel to/from 288travel within 288

Rotorua region 272-312accommodation 272climate 272highlights 274travel seasons 272travel to/from 273

Ruahine Ranges 344Ruapehu Region 244, 260-

71, 246accommodation 244climate 244food 244highlights 246travel seasons 244travel to/from 245

Ruatoria 317rugby 13, 238-9, 355Russell 133-6, 134

Ssafety 417-18

government travel advice 418

hitchhiking 428road hazards 428tramping 261

sailingAuckland 69Bay of Islands 131, 132Paihia 139Taupo 253Tauranga 294Wellington 352Whitianga 199

Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari 175

sandboardingOpononi 155

Sandy Bay 128scenic flights

Bay of Islands 133Mt Taranaki (Egmont

National Park) 222Rotorua 282Taupo 253Tauranga 294Tongariro National Park

264Whakaari (White Island)

309scuba diving, see divingsea kayaking 42sea travel 423seals 372Shannon 243shuttle buses 425

skiing & snowboardingManganui 221Tongariro National Park

264Tukino 264Turoa 264Whakapapa 264

skydiving 42Taupo 250, 252Tauranga 294Whangarei 125

Skyline MTB Gravity Park 20

Snell, Peter 225snorkelling, see also diving

Bay of Islands 132Goat Island Marine

Reserve 115-16Hahei 202Tutukaka 128Whitianga 198

snowboarding, see skiing & snowboarding

sports 40-5, see also individual sports

stand-up-paddleboardingTongariro National

Park 20State Highway 25 198Stingray Bay 202Stonehenge Aotearoa 374Stony Bay 197Stratford 223-4Surf Highway 45 224-7surfing 45, 44

Ahipara 152Auckland 71Gisborne 322Manu Bay 173Mt Maunganui 298New Plymouth 214-15Ngarunui Beach 173Oakura 224Ohope 310Opunake 225Raglan 170, 173Tutukaka Coast 129Whale Bay 173Whangamata 205

Surville Cliffs 150

Tta moko (Maori tattooing)

399Taihape 271Taipa 147Tairua 203-4takahe 393Tapu 194

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

441IN

DEX T-W

Taranaki 210-43, 212-13

accommodation 210climate 210food 210highlights 212travel seasons 210travel to/from 211

Tasman, Abel 383Taumarunui 187-8

mountain biking 187Taumatawhakatangihang-

akoauauotamateaturi-pukakapikimaungahoro-nukupokaiwhenuakitan-atahu 343

Taupo 245-56, 248, 251accommodation 253-4activities 249-53drinking & nightlife

255-6entertainment 256food 255shopping 256sights 247-8tours 253travel to/from 256travel within 256

Taupo Bay 147Taupo region 244-71

accommodation 244climate 244food 244highlights 246travel seasons 244travel to/from 245

Tauranga 292-8, 293Tauranga Bay 145-6Tauranga Bridge 316Tawarau Forest 185taxes 417, 421, 422taxis 428Te Araroa 39, 317Te Aroha 178-9Te Awamutu 174-5Te Henga (Bethells Beach)

109Te Kaha 316Te Kooti 327Te Kuiti 186Te Mata Peak 338Te Papa 351Te Puia 276Te Puia Springs 317Te Puke 304Te Urewera National Park

326-9Te-Waha-O-Rerekohu 317Te Whakarewarewa 276

telephone services 18, 418-19

templesNga-Tapuwae-o-te-Man-

gai 150Thames 191-3, 192theatre 402Three Sisters 220Tikitiki 317time 18, 419tipping 417Tiritiri Matangi Island 102Titirangi 107toilets 419Toi’s Pa 306Tokomaru Bay 317Tolaga Bay 317Tongariro Alpine

Crossing 12, 12Tongariro National Park

260-4, 262, 35tourist information 419,

see also individual locations

tours 425, 427Auckland 71-2Bay of Islands 132-3bike 335Hobbiton 177Maori culture 368Rotorua 282-3Taupo 253Waiheke Island 97Wellington 354-5women travellers 420

train travel 428tram travel 428tramping, see also hiking

& walkingAuckland 71Cambridge 176Cape Reinga 150Coromandel Coastal

Walkway 197Coromandel Forest

Park 195Gisborne 322Great Barrier Island

103, 105Kaimai Mamaku Forest

Park 294Kapiti Island 368Karangahake Gorge

208-9Kerikeri 143Mangapurua/

Kaiwhakauka Track 236-7

Mangawhai 120

Matemateāonga Track 236

Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) 221

Mt Te Aroha 178National Park Village

266-7New Plymouth 215-16Ohakune 268Pureora Forest Park 188Rotorua 280-1Tarawera Trail 291Taupo 249Tawarau Forest 185Te Urewera National Park

326-7Tolaga Bay 317Tongariro National Park

261-4Turangi 257Waiheke Island 97Waitakere Ranges 107-8Waitomo Caves 184Whakapapa Village 265Whangamata 205Whanganui National Park

236-7Whangarei Heads 128Whangaroa Harbour 147Whirinaki Forest Park

289Trans-Pacific Partnership

(TPP) 379travel to/from North Island

422-3climate change impact

423departure tax 422

travel within North Island 423-8

transport passes 424, 425, 428

travellers cheques 417Treaty of Waitangi 384trekking, see hiking &

walkingtrout 258Tryphena 103tuataras 175, 391Tuhua (Mayor Island) 302tui 393Turangi 256-60, 257Tutukaka 128Tutukaka Coast 128-9TV 405, 415

UUrupukapuka Island 141

Vvacations 417vaccinations 414vegan travellers 47vegetarian travellers 47visas 18, 419-20visual arts 405-6volcanoes 62, 390-1

Maunganui Bluff 157Moutuhora (Whale

Island) 309Mt Eden 61-2Mt Ngauruhoe 261Mt Ruapehu 260-1Mt Taranaki 220-1Mt Tongariro 261One Tree Hill 67Rangitoto Island 95Tuhua (Mayor Island)

302Whakaari (White Island)

309, 316volunteering 420

WWaihau Bay 317Waiheke Island 96-101,

98, 49Waihi 206-8Waihi Beach 206-8Waikanae 370Waikato 160, 161-79, 162,

165accommodation 160climate 160highlights 162history 161travel seasons 160

Waikawau 185Waikawau Bay 197Waimamaku 156Waimangu Volcanic Valley

288-9Waioeka Gorge 316Wai-O-Tapu Thermal

Wonderland 289Waiotemarama 156Waiouru 270-1Waipiro Bay 317Waipoua Forest 156-7, 29 Waipukurau 343Wairakei 248Wairarapa, the 370-5Wairoa 329-30Waitakere Ranges 107-8Waitangi 136-41

Museum of Waitangi 20Waitangi Day 24

442

IND

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Waitomo Caves 10, 181-5, 183, 10

Waiwera 112Wake, Nancy 387wakeboarding 250walking, see hiking &

walkingWanganui, see WhanganuiWarkworth 113-14water 415waterfalls

Aratiatia Rapids 247Haruru Falls 138Huka Falls 247Marokopa Falls 185Okere Falls 280Owharoa Falls 208Rainbow Falls 143Rere Falls 322Tarawera Falls 280Te Reinga Falls 325Te Wairoa Falls 291Waiau Falls 198Waireinga 173Wairere Falls 178, 306Wentworth Falls 205Whangarei Falls 124Wharepuke Falls 143

watersports 42-5weather 24-7, 413, see

also individual regionsweaving 401websites 19weights 415Wellington 12, 347-67, 348-

9, 354-5, 12accommodation 345,

356-9activities 352-4children, travel with 357climate 345drinking & nightlife

362-3

entertainment 363-4festivals & events 355-6food 345, 359-61highlights 346information 365itineraries 352shopping 364-5sights 347-52tours 354-5travel seasons 345travel to/from 365-6travel within 366-7walking tours 353, 353

Wellington region 345-75, 346

accommodation 345climate 345food 345highlights 346travel seasons 345travel to/from 346

Wellington Sevens 355Wellington Zoo 351weta 392Whakaari (White Island)

309, 316Whakaipo Bay 250Whakapapa Village 265-6Whakarewarewa Village 276Whakatane 304-9, 305Whale Bay 128whales 393Whananaki 128Whangamata 205-6Whangamomona 223Whangamumu Harbour 130Whanganui 210, 227-32,

212-13, 228, 234, 43Whanganui National Park

232-8Whanganui River Road 233Whangaparaoa (Cape

Runaway) 317

Whangapoua 198Whangarei 123-7, 124-5Whangarei Heads 127-8Whangaroa Harbour 146-7Whareorino Forest 185Whenuakite 201White Cliffs 219white-water rafting 45, 44

East Cape 318Mohaka River 344Mountain Valley 334Opotiki 311Rotorua 281Taihape 271Turangi 257-8

Whitianga 198-201wi-fi 416wildlife 391-95wildlife reserves, see zoos

& wildlife reservesWilsons Bay 194windsurfing

Ocean Beach 173Tauranga 294Wellington 352

wine festivals 97, 139, 323, 372

wine regions 23, 49, 49wineries

Auckland 92Gisborne 322Hawke’s Bay 340Kaitaia 151Karangahake Gorge 209Karikari Peninsula 149Katikati 303Kerikeri 142-3Kumeu 109-10Mangawhai 120Napier 334Rotorua 277Russell 134Tauranga 292-3

Waiheke Island 96Wairarapa, the 371Warkworth 114

WOMAD 25-6women travellers 420work 420-1

visas 420World of WearableArt

Awards Show 27, 356 WWOOFing 411

Zziplining

Rotorua 277, 279Waiheke Island 97

zoos & wildlife reserves, see also bird parks

Aroha Island 142Auckland Zoo 67Goat Island Marine

Reserve 115Hamilton Zoo 164Kiwi North 124Nga Manu Nature

Reserve 370Owlcatraz 243Paradise Valley Springs

277Poor Knights Marine

Reserve 129Pukaha Mt Bruce

National Wildlife Centre 375

Rainbow Springs 277Sugar Loaf Islands

Marine Park 214Te Angiangi Marine

Reserve 343Te Whanganui-A-Hei

Marine Reserve 199Wellington Zoo 351Wharekawa Wildlife

Refuge 205Zealandia 347

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

443N

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444

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445N

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Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to social@lonelyplanet.com We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

AN

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LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

446

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdContributing WritersProfessor James Belich wrote the History chapter. James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent historians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.Tony Horwitz wrote the Captain James Cook boxed text in the History chapter. Tony is a Pulitzer-prize winning reporter and nonfiction author. His fascination with James Cook, and with travel, took him around NZ, Australia and the Pacific while researching Blue Latitudes (alternatively titled Into the Blue), part biography of Cook and part travelogue.John Huria (Ngai Tahu, Muaupoko) wrote the Māori Culture chapter. John has an editorial, research and writing background with a focus on Māori writing and culture. He was senior editor for Māori publishing company Huia and now runs an editorial and publishing services company, Ahi Text Solutions Ltd (www.ahitextsolutions.co.nz).Josh Kronfeld wrote the Surfing the North Island boxed text in the Extreme Sports on the North Island chapter. Josh is an ex–All Black flanker, whose passion for surfing NZ’s beaches is legendary and who found travelling for rugby a way to surf other great breaks around the world.Gareth Shute wrote the Music section in the Arts & Music chapter. Gareth is the author of four books, including Hip Hop Music in Aotearoa and NZ Rock 1987–2007. He is also a musician and has toured the UK, Europe and Australia as a member of the Ruby Suns and the Brunettes. He now plays in indie soul group The Cosbys.Vaughan Yarwood wrote the Environment chapter. Vaughan is an Auckland-based writer whose books include The History Makers: Adventures in New Zealand Biography, The Best of New Zea-land:A Collection of Essays on NZ Life and Culture by Prominent Kiwis, which he edited, and the regional history Between Coasts: From Kaipara to Kawau. He has written widely for NZ and inter-national publications and is the former associate editor of New Zealand Geographic, for which he has also written for many years.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541534th edition – September 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 026 0© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSCharles Rawlings-WayTaranaki & Whanganui, East Coast, Wellington Region English by birth, Australian by chance, All Blacks fan by choice: Charles’s early understanding of Aotearoa was less than comprehensive (sheep, mountains, sheep on mountains...). He realised there was more to it when a wandering uncle returned with a faux-jade tiki in 1981. He wore it with pride until he saw the NZ cricket team’s beige uni-forms in 1982... Mt Taranaki’s snowy summit, Napier’s art-deco deliverance and

Whanganui’s raffish charm have helped him forgive: he’s once again smitten with the country’s phantasmal landscapes, disarming locals and its determination to sculpt its own political and indigenous destiny. Charles also wrote the Planning chapters (with the exception of Hiking and Extreme Sports on the North Island), NZ Today, Arts & Music and Survival Guide.

Brett AtkinsonBay of Islands & Northland, Waikato & the Coromandel Peninsula, Taupo & the Central Plateau, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty Born in Rotorua, but now a proud resident of Auckland, Brett explored the top half of New Zealand’s North Island for this edition. Excursions to Northland, the Coromandel Peninsula and Tongariro National Park echoed family holidays from an earlier century, and rediscovering his home town also evoked great memories. Brett’s contributed to

Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and covered around 50 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Sarah Bennett & Lee SlaterSarah and Lee specialise in NZ travel, with a particular focus on outdoor adven-ture including hiking, mountain biking and camping. In addition to five editions of the New Zealand guidebook, they are also co-authors of Lonely Planet’s Hiking & Tramping in New Zealand and New Zealand’s Best Trips. Read more at www.bennettandslater.co.nz. Sarah and Lee wrote Hiking on the North Island and Extreme Sports on the North Island.

Peter DragicevichAuckland After nearly a decade working for off-shore publishing companies, Peter’s life has come full circle, returning to his home city of Auckland. As man-aging editor of Express newspaper he spent much of the ’90s writing about the local arts, club and bar scenes. Peter has contributed to several editions of the New Zealand guidebook and, after dozens of Lonely Planet assignments, it remains his favourite gig.

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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