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502502

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Akis Vasileiadis, Alejandro Leano, Angela Parlane, Anne Hlinka, Asmus Dall Gregersen, Barbara Freeman, Beth Fertig, Carlos de Bustos, Claire Knight, Claire Patrick, Cornelis Faling, Daniel Schechter, Daniel Klement, Denise Chiarioni, Florian Rieger, Floris van Halm, Gail Doherty, Geeske Saad-Beukema, Harald Luckerbauer, Ilene Aveling, Jean-Claude Latombe, Julie Bartlett-Hejira, Katleen Matthieu, Keith Johnson, Krzysztof Światły, Leonard Naymark, Leonie Hutch, Martin Briggs, Michelle Leicester, Mirjam Brusius, Mirka Costanzi, Nick Cross, Nick McWilliam, Peter & Emma Greenhalgh, Ray Stokes, Rebecca Lebow, Rebekka van Roemburg, Rein Boumans, Renata Haffaf, Rob Buzacott, Rob Keereweer, Rose Button, Ruben Lelivelt, Sally Kondziolka, Sally Norris, Sam Firth, Sam Pulfer, Sander Steel, Sara Rei, Simon Carlile, Sophie Bull, Steven & Roberta Haas, Tessa Hatlelid, Tina Woodhouse , Zenon Lewycky

WRITER THANKSJessica LeeA huge shukran to all the Marrakshis who always make coming to Marrakesh such a pleasure. Big thanks to Youssef, Fatima, Hasan, and Amine; to Mark for a lowdown on the local scene over beers; Cyril for tips and advice; and in particular to Mohammed Nour for

taking time out of his schedule to help out. Also thanks to Virginia and Peter for restaurant-checking fun.

Brett AtkinsonA big shukran to the following: Ben and Ollie in Tag-hazout, Irene in Tamraght, Jane in Taroudannt, Sissi and Mafhoud in Taliouine, Sadat in Tarfaya, Houssine and Liesbeth in Tafraoute, and Sally in Mirleft. Special thanks to Neil, Jackie and the kids in Dakhla. At LP, thanks to Helen Elfer for the opportunity to explore North Africa, my fellow authors and the hardworking editors and cartos, and final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in New Zealand.

Paul ClammerThis was my first Morocco update job where I could commute from home, our house in the Fes medina. So, thanks and above all to Robyn for her amazing restoration job, and to Monkey the accidentally adopted mosque roof cat, for not smashing ALL the glassware when I was in Tangier. On the roof, my continued salaams to petit taxi drivers everywhere who put the meter on without asking.

Virginia MaxwellGreatest thanks go to my travelling companion, Peter Handsaker. Thanks also to Tine Riera, Marie-Christine Martinet, Mustapha Bouamara, Helen Ranger and Jess Lee.

Lorna ParkesThanks to Helen Elfer, who gave me the best excuse to travel back to one of my favourite cities. To Said

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

503BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

at Dar Bensouda, without whom I would have got lost in the Fez medina many more times than I did. Thanks also to Jess Stephens and Liz Campbell for their trusted insights, and to Robert Johnstone for his offerings of food. Biggest thanks of all goes to Rob, for looking after our son, Austin, and to Austin himself, for joining me on part of the adventure.

Regis St LouisCountless people across Morocco showed me such enormous and humbling hospitality. In particu-lar, I’m grateful to Abdel Haydar, Lahcen Igdem, Almodhik Aissa, Mohamed El Qasemy and Carolyn, Tahrbilte Rachid, Abdel Jalil, Omar and Ibrahim of Dar Sofian, Rashid and Doreen (and Jack the don-key), Ziad and Amqrane Tair (and family), Vanessa and Xavier, Toufiq Mousaoui, and Abdel Benalila and his family. Biggest thanks to Cassandra and our daughters, Magdalena and Genevieve, for their enduring support.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Chefchaouen, Jan Wlodarczyk/4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Morocco guidebook was researched and written by Jessica Lee, Brett Atkinson, Paul Clammer, Virginia Max-well, Lorna Parkes and Regis St Louis. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Helen ElferProduct Editors Genna Pat-terson, Anne Mason Senior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Harrison, Gabby Innes, Ilana Myers, Susan Paterson, Christopher Pitts

Assisting Cartographer Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ronan Abayawick-rema, Heather Champion, Kate Chapman, Grace Dobell, Sandie Kestell, Ilana Myers Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Lauren O’Connell, Kirsten Rawlings, Kat Rowan, Jessica Ryan, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson

504

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbou Bnar 261-2Abu Bakr 411Abu Inan 417Abu Salim Ibrahim 417accommodation 464-6, see

also individual locationschild-friendly 42costs 462language 494trekking 36

Achmrah 134-5activities 21-3, 29-31, see

also individual activitiesacute mountain sickness

493 Afella-Ighir 382Afensou 367Afeska 259Agadir 354-62, 355Agafay Desert 84Agdal Basin 325Agdz 118-19Aghbalou 98-9Aghmat 97-8Aglou Plage 388Agouti 94-5Ahmed al-Mansour ed-Dahbi

47, 60, 294, 418Aguerd-Oudad 378AIDS/HIV 493 ’Ain Leuh 338Aïn Tissimlane 259air travel 481, 484Aït Ali n’Ito 96Aït Alla 96Aït Benhaddou 111-12Aït Blel 87 Aït Bougomez Valley 90-2Aït Bououli Valley 93-4Âït Herbil 396Aït Mansour 381

Akchour 259-61Alawites, the 420-1alcohol 437-8Al-Hoceima 263-6, 264Al-Hoceima

National Park 267-8Ali ben Youssef

Medersa 51-3, 59Almohads, the 414-15Almond Blossom

Festival 374Almoravids, the 411Alnif 150-1altitude sickness 493-4Amazigh, see Berber peopleamber 449Ameln Valley 378-9, 381American Fondouk 293-4Amezri 96Amezrou 121Amsouzert 107Anfa 155, 158 animals 458-60 Anmiter 110 Anchor Point 364Anti Atlas 12, 317, 374-83,

12, 318Aourir 363Arabic 495-9archaeological sites

Tirnmatmat 378architecture 19, 166-7, 451-5area codes 476Argan Country 371argan oil 212Arhermane 261Aroumd 102-3art 207art deco 451art galleries, see

museums & galleriesarts 445-6Asilah 193-7, 194Assif Ouarg Valley 132-3Atlantic Coast 43, 153-217,

383-99, 154, 353

accommodation 153climate 153food 153highlights 154travel seasons 153

ATMs 469Atougha 383Azemmour 200-1Azib Imi n’Ouassif 107-8Azib Likemt 107Azib Tamsoult 108-9Azilal 87-8Azilane 259Azrou 340-4, 341

BBab el-Ansar 254Bab el-Mansour 323Bab Taza 258-9, 261-2Badi Palace 60Bahia Palace 47, 57-8, 302beaches 20

Agadir 356Aglou Plage 388Plage des Nations 187Plage Isly 263Plage Quemado 263Playa de la Ensanada de

los Galápagos 271Playa de la Ribera 239Playa del Chorillo 239Ras R’mel Beach 191Sidi Bouzi 198Sidi Ifni 391Tangier Beach 224Tan Tan Plage 396Témara Plage 188Town Beach (Essaouira)

209Beat generation 228bedbugs 494 beer 437-8 Beni-Snassen Mountains

279Berber language 499Berber people 19-20, 410-11,

416, 426, 19 music 440

Berkane 278-9Bhalil 315bicycle travel, see cycling Bin El-Ouidane 88birdwatching 29, 188, 202

Souss-Massa National Park 362

boat travel 482-4books 410border crossings 481botany 100Bou-Ahmed 261Boumalne Du Dadès 131-2Bowles, Paul 232, 442budget, see costsbus travel 481, 484-5, 486,

489business hours 470

CCabo Negro 248-9Cala Iris 268calligraphy 372, 445-6camel treks 15, 30, 149,

217, 15camping 464cannabis 246Cap Spartel 236-7car travel

to/from Morocco 482,within Morocco 485-7

carpets 446-7, 448, 450Carved Gazelle 377-8Casa Mar 398 Casablanca 155-71, 158-9,

162, 167accommodation 161, 163activities 160-1drinking 166-9entertainment 169events 161festivals 161food 163-6history 155

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

505IN

DEX C

-G Casablanca continued

information 170itineraries 156nightlife 166-9orientation 169-70, 171shopping 169sights 155-60travel to/from 170-1travel within 171walking tours 166-7, 167

Cascades d’Ouzoud 86-7Cathédrale des Rochers 90cathedrals see churches &

cathedrals caves

Gouffre du Friouato 348-9

Grottes de Chameau 279Grottes des Pigeons 279Grottes d’Hercule 236

cell phones 16, 475central Morocco 43, 46-

152, 48-9ceramics 449Ceuta 237-43, 238-9Chaouwara Tanneries

289-90Chapeau de Napoléon 378Chefchaouen 250-8, 252-

3, 10, 302, 317accommodation 253-6activities 251-3drinking 257hammams 251-2history 250-1information 257-8nightlife 257 shopping 257sights 251travel to/from 258travel within 258trekking 252-3

Chellah 176children, travel with 40-2

Casablanca 161Rabat 177Tangier 234

churches & cathedralsChurch of Notre-Dame

de Lourdes 157Church of San Barto-

lome 195Church of St John the

Evangelist 156Church of the Assump-

tion 198Iglesia de Bacturia 245Iglesia de la Purísima

Concepción 270

Iglesia de Nuestra Senõra del Pilar 191

Old Spanish Church 222St Andrew’s Church 224St Pierre Cathedral 173

cinema 443-4Circuit Touristique 146Cirque Jaffar 346Cité Portugaise 198-9climate 16, see also

individual regionsclimate change 479 climbing 374, 376consulates 466cooking courses

Aourir 363Essaouira 210Fez 297Marrakesh 65Sidi Ifni 391Talioune 373 Tamraght 363Taroudannt 367

costs 17 accommodation 464food 432

courses, see cooking courses, language courses

couscous 436crafts 18, 446-50credit cards 469culture 18, 408-9, 426-30currency 16customs regulations 466cycling 30, 62, 374, 484,

see also mountain biking

DDadès Gorge 135-7Dadès Valley 128-42Dakhla 402-6, 403dangers see safetyDar Bellarj 54Dar el-Baïda, see

CasablancaDemnate 83-5deserts 20, 318, 457-9desert trips

Dakhla 404Diabat 216-17diarrhoea 493disabilities, travellers

with 476Djemaa el-Fna 50, 74Djemaa el-Fna Street

Theatre 9, 8, 59Drâa Valley 11, 118-28, 11

drinks 437-8driving, see car travel drugs 472DVDs 468

Eeast Mediterranean Coast

268-83economy 408-9electricity 466El-Hiba 383 El Jadida 197-200, 198El-Jebha 262-3El-Kelaâ 261El Malara 377embassies 466embroidery 447emergencies 17, 473

language 497-8Erfoud 145Erg Chebbi 148, 318, 5, 318Erg Chigaga 125, 126, 318Erg Ezahar 125Er Rachidia 142-4er-Raissouli, Moulay

Ahmed ben Mohammed 196

Essaouira 13, 206-16, 208-9, 13, 302

accommodation 211-13activities 209-10courses 210drinking 214-15events 211festivals 211food 213-14history 206-7information 215-16nightlife 214-15 shopping 215sights 207-9tours 211travel to/from 216travel within 216

etiquette 471, 485events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17

FFakhour 96 faux guides 474felt 448ferry travel 482-4, 483Fès el-Bali 287Fès Festival of World

Sacred Music 13, 299, 13

festivals & events 21-3, see also music festivals, individual locations

food 366 Fez 44, 286-313, 288, 290-

1, 296, 2, 9accommodation 284,

299-306activities 296-7climate 284 courses 297drinking 309-10entertainment 310events 299 festivals 299food 284, 306-9highlights 285history 286-7nightlife 309-10 shopping 310-11sights 287-96tourist information

311-12tours 298travel to/from 312-13travel within 313walking tours 294-5

Figuig 143film 168, 408fishing

Oualidia 202Tarfaya 398

flyboarding 356food 18-19, 431-38, 2, see

also cooking courses, individual regions

costs 431 language 496-7

forestsMoudmame 340-1

fortsEl Peñón de Alhucemas

263Melilla la Vieja 270-1Skala de la Ville 207Skala du Port 208Tarfaya 398

foundouqs 55, 451

Ggalleries see museums &

galleries García Aldave 240gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 466-7geography 456-62geology 456-8Glaoui Kasbah 110

506

IND

EX G- M

Gnaoua 439, 8Gnaoua & World Music

Festival 211 God’s Bridge 260-1golf 216Gorges d’Aouli 346Gouffre du Friouato 348-9Goulimime 395, 353Goulmima 142Grand Socco 223 grands taxis 487 guides, trekking 474

HHad Gharbia 199hammams 451-2

Agadir 356Chefchaouen 251-2Fez 296Hammam Villa de l’Ô

209Hammam Ziani 161Marrakesh 62-5Mirleft 388-9Spa Casa Lila 210Tafraoute 374Tangier 224 Villa Maroc

Oriental Spa 209-10Hash Point 364Hassi Labied 148health 491-4heatstroke 494Hendrix, Jimi 211hepatitus A 492hepatitus B 492-3hibhub (hip hop) 440High Atlas 10, 83-152,

317, 10hiking see trekkinghistory 410-25HIV/AIDS 493holidays 471-2horse riding 30, 62, 63,

216-17, 224hotels 465

IId-Âïssa 396Idrissids, the 410-11Ifrane 337-40Ifrane National Park 338-9Igli 133-4Île de Mogador 208-9

Imilchil 138, 317Imi-n’Ifri 85-6Imizzar 260Imlil 101-2, 104, 108-9immigration 481Immouzzer des

Ida Outanane 365-6insurance 467internet resources 17,

467, 492Islam 411-12, 429-30

public holidays 472Ismail, Sultan Moulay

324, 420 itineraries 24-8Izrafene 261

JJardin Majorelle 60-1Jebel Aklim 381-2Jebel Azra 261Jebel el-Kelaâ 250, 259Jebel Lakraa 261Jebel L’Kest 378, 381Jebel Saghro 132-5, 134 Jebel Siroua 382-3Jebel Taloussisse 261Jebel Zagora 122jet-skiing 356jewellery 387, 406, 450Jewish people 418-19

KKariat Arekmane 277Kasbah les Oudaias 180Kasbah Myriem 344kasbahs 452

Agadir 356Chefchaouen 251Kasbah des Caïds 120Kasbah les Oudaias 180Kasbah Myriem

Monastery 344Taliouine 372Taroudannt 367Tioute 367Tizourgane Kasbah 377

kayaking 31, 88, 177Kelaâ M’Gouna 130-1, 135Ketama 246 Killer Point 364kitesurfing 31, 402Koutoubia Mosque 50-1, 58ksour 452-3

Ksar Aït Goulmima 142Ksar El Fida 146Ksar el-Oudahir 143Ksar Massa 363

Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim 146

Ksar Ouled Driss 125Ksar Tinheras 146Ksar Zenaga 143 Tamnougalt ksar 120

LLa Source 364Laâyoune

(Al-’Uyun) 401-2Lac de Sidi Boughaba 188language 16, 495-501

Arabic 493 Berber 497 Spanish 237Tarifit 266 trekking 38

language courses 161, 177, 210, 297, 467

Larache 189-92, 190leatherwork 310, 449

Chaouwara Tanneries 289-90

legal matters 467-8Legzira Plage 394leishmaniasis 493lesbian travellers 465-7LGBT travellers 466-7lions 457literature 442-3Lixus 192-3

Mmacaques 342maps 468 markets see souqsMarrakesh 43, 46-152,

52-3, 56, 58-9, 61, 3, 58, 59

accommodation 46, 67-70

activities 62-5children, travel with 63climate 46courses 65-6drinking & nightlife 76-7entertainment 77events 66-7 festivals 66-7food 46, 71-5highlights 48-9history 47internet resources 79nightlife 76-7 shopping 77-9sights 50-62tourist information

79-80

tours 66travel seasons 46 travel to/from 80-2walking tours 58-9

marriage moussem 23, 138Martil 249-50Massa 362Matisse, Henri 227mausoleums

Mausoleum of Moham-med V 176-7

Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss 335

Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail 324

M’Diq 248-9measures 468mechoui 437Medersa Bou Inania 287, 9medersas 453medinas 18

Asilah 194-5Azemmour 200-1Casablanca 156Chefchaouen 10, 251,

303, 10, 302Essaouira 207. 303Fez 9, 294-5, 300, 303,

290-1, 295, 9Larache 190-1Marrakesh 50-60, 303,

58-9, 58, 59Meknès 320, 322-3, 322 Oujda 280Rabat 172-3Safi 203-4Salé 185-6Sefrou 313Tangier 221-3, 225, 302Taourirt Kasbah 113-14Tetouan 243-5

Medina Walls (Taza) 347Mediterranean Coast 44,

218-83, 219accommodation 218climate 218food 218highlights 219travel seasons 218

Meknès 15, 44, 320-1, 321, 322, 328, 15

accommodation 284, 325-7

drinking 329entertainment 330events 325 festivals 325food 284, 327-9highlights 285

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

507IN

DEX M

- PMeknès continued

history 320nightlife 329 shopping 330, 331sights 320-5tourist information 330tours 325travel to/from 330-1travel within 331

Melilla 268-75, 270-1Merenids, the 416-17Merzouga 148-50, 147Mesti 394-5M’Goun Traverse 32, 93, 95M’Hamid 125-7Middle Atlas 44, 317, 337-

51, 291, 317Midelt 344-5, 345minibuses 482Mirleft 388-90mobile phones 16, 475Modernisme 275money 16, 17, 468-70Monoliths of M’Soura 199Monte Hacho 240mosques 453-55

Ali ben Youssef Mosque 52

Andalous Mosque 348 Cylindrical Minaret 335Grand Mosque (Salé)

186Grande Mosquée

(Chefchaouen) 251Grande Mosquée (Oujda)

280Grande Mosquée

(Tangier) 222Grande Mosquée (Taza)

347, Grande Mosquée (Tiznit)

383-5Grande Mosquée de

Rabat Medina (Rabat) 172

Hassan II Mosque 165Kairaouine Mosque &

University 289Koutoubia Mosque 50 Mosquée Srifi-yenne 261Spanish Mosque 251

motorcycle travel 482, 485-7

Moulay Bousselham 188-9Moulay Idriss 14, 334-7,

336, 14mountain biking 30, 378mountain goats 371mountains 20

Jebel Aklim 381

Jebel Azra 261 Jebel Lakraa 261 Jebel el-Kelaa 250, 259 Jebel L’Kest 378, 381 Jebel Saghro 132-5, 134 Jebel Siroua 382-3 Jebel Taloussisse 261 Jebel Toubkal 103Jebel Zagora 122

museums & galleriesAbderrahman Slaoui

Foundation Museum 155-6

Archaeology Museum 173, 245

Batha Museum 290-2Centre de Hassan II

Rencontres Interna-tionales 195

Cooperative des Potiers 124

Coopérative Souktana du Safran 372 Ethno-graphic Museum 245

Dar Azaafaran 372Dar Bellarj 54Dar Jamaï Museum

320, 322Dar Si Said 55-6Galerie Lafnar 190Gaselec Museum 272Kasbah Museum of

Mediterranean Cultures 223

MACMA 62 Maison de la Photogra-

phie 54-5Maison Tiskiwin 56-7Maison Traditionnelle

378Mémoire d’Agadir 354Moroccan Jewish

Museum 157Moroccan Museum of

Money 173Musée de la Fondation

Lorin 222Musée de Marrakech

53-4Musée de Mouassine

50-1Musée de Oasis 141Musée des Arts et

Traditions de la Valleé du Drâa 121

Musée du Patrimoine Amazigh 356

Musée Saint-Exupéry 398

Musée Sources Lalla Mimoun 141

Musées Belghazi 187

Museo de Ceuta 240Museo de la Basilica

Tardorromana 239Museo de la Legión 239Museo de los Muralles

Reales 239Museo Etnográfico de la

Culturas Amazigh & Sefardí 270

Museo Militar 271Museum of Fossils &

Minerals 145Museum of Modern &

Contemporary Art 173Sidi Mohammed Ben

Abdellah Museum 207Talassemtane Eco-

Museum 251Tangier American Lega-

tion Museum 221-2Tetouan Museum of

Modern Art 245-6Villa des Arts de Casa-

blanca 157music festivals 440

Agadir 356 Casablanca 161 Fez 13, 229, 13 Rabat 177, Tangier 226

music 439-41Berber 440 Gnaoua 211, 439, 8hibhub (hip hop) 440

NNador 275-7national parks & reserves459-63

Al-Hoceima National Park 267-8

Bouarfa Wildlife Sanctuary 461

Bouhachem Regional Nature Reserve 252

Ifrane National Park 338-9

Lac de Sidi Bourhaba 461

Merja Zerga National Park 188, 202

Reserve Naturelle de Tamga 90

Souss-Massa National Park 362-3

Talassemtane National Park 258-62

Tazekka National Park 349

Toubkal National Park 461

newspapers 468N’Kob 151-2, 319

Ooases 318

Afella-Ighir 382Tighmert 396

opening hours 470Oualidia 201-3Ouarzazate 112-18, 112-13Oued Farda 260Oued Kelaâ 260Oued Laou 262Ounilla Valley 110 Ouirgane 82-3Oujda 280-3, 282-3Oukaïmeden 100Ouled Berhil 371Ourika Valley 97-9Ouslaf 260, 261Ouzina 151 outdoor activities, see

activitiesoysters 402

PPainted Rocks 378 palaces

Badi Palace 60 Bahia Palace 47, 57-8,

302Palais Glaoui 292-3Royal Palace (Casa-

blanca) 157Royal Palace (Fez) 293Royal Palace (Rabat) 176

Palm Beach 356palmeraies 11, 11, see also

individual locationsPanorama 364Paradise Valley 365paragliding 389parks & gardens

Andalusian Gardens 180Jardin Bio-Aromatique

d’Ourika 98 Jardin de Olhão 354Jardins Exotiques 187Jnan Sbil (Bou Jeloud

Gardens 293Lovers Park 245Menara Gardens 62Mendoubia Gardens

223-4Parc de la Ligue Arabe

157Parc Lalla Aicha 280Parque Hernández 272

508

IND

EX P-T

parks & gardens continuedParque Marítimo del

Mediterráneo 240Vallée des Oiseaux 356

passementerie 447-8passports 481petit taxis 488Pierres Bleues 378pirates 420-1planning, see also

individual regionsactivities 29-31budgeting 17children 40-2climate 16 internet resources 17itineraries 24-8Morocco basics 16Morocco’s regions 43-4travel seasons 16trekking 32-9, 260

Plaza de Africa 239politics 408-9Pont Farda 260population 409postal services 470-1pottery 311 prehistoric sites

Aït Ouazik 151 Iouaridene 87 M’Soura 199 Tafraoute 11Tazekka 377 Yaggour Plateau 97

Prophet Mohammed 411-2public holidays 471-2

RRabat 172-84, 174-5, 179

accommodation 177-9activities 177courses 177drinking 182entertainment 182events 177 festivals & events 177food 179-82history 172information 183itineraries 173nightlife 182 shopping 182sights 172-7travel to/from 183-4

travel within 184rabies 493radio 468Rallye Toulouse

Saint-Louis 398Ramadan 434, 473ramparts 454Ras el-Maa 251, 277religion 409, 429-30Reserve Naturelle de

Tamga 90 reserves see national parks

& reservesriads 68, 452Rif Mountains 243-68, 317,

267, 316-17Rif, the 44 218-83, 219

accommodation 218climate 218 food 218 highlights 219 travel seasons 218

central Rif region 267-8Rissani 146-8, 147Rocade 249, 275rock climbing 30Roman ruins 332-4

Chellah 172, 176 Volubilis 14, 14Lixus 192

Romans 410-11Rougoult 94-5ruins

Cathédrale Portugaise 204

Gorges d’Aouli 346Lixus 192-3Merenid Tombs 294, 296Roman Ruins 332-4Saadian Fortress 190

SSaadians, the 417-9Saadian Tombs 60safety 472-5

drugs 246, 472faux guides 474road hazards 487Western Sahara 400

Safi 203-6, 204Saïdia 277-8sailing 202 402, 403Salé 184, 185Sallee Rovers 187 sand dunes

Erg Chebbi 20, 24, 27, 30, 118, 148

Erg Chigaga 15, 20, 25, 30, 125

Erg Ezahar 125Tinfou Dunes 30, 124

Sebta, see CeutaSebt Aït Bououli 93Sefrou 313-15, 314Setti Fatma 99-100Sfiha Telj 259shellfish 205shipwrecks 398shopping see individual

regions Sidi Ifni 12, 390-4, 392, 12Sidi Jil 261Sidi Kaouki 217Sidi Meftah 260Sidi Moussa 91Sijilmassa 146skiing 31Skoura 128-30, 11smoking 475snake bites 494Souq al-Had 360souqs 97, 452, 453

Agadir 360Azrou Souq 340Ceuta 240Chefchaouen 256Essaouira 215Fez 307Goulimime 395Henna Souq 289Meknès 331Rabat 172, 182Salé 186Taliouine 372Taroudannt 371 Tetouan 247

Source Bleue 385Souss-Massa National Park

362-3Souss Valley 354-74Southern Morocco 44,

352-99, 353spas, see hammamssquares

Place el-Hedim 320Place Lalla Aouda 323-4

Station Balnéaire 277Sultan Moulay Ismail

324, 420Sunset Beach 356surfing 12, 31, 12

Aglou Plage 388Essaouira 209Mirleft 389Oualidia 202Rabat 177Sidi Ifni 391

southern Morocco 363, 364

Tarfaya 398swimming 65, 160-1, 202

TTabant 91 Tacheddirt 105-6Tafilalt 142-50Taforalt 279Tafraoute 11, 374-7, 375, 11Tagdilt 132-3Taghazout 364-5Tagmout 383Tagouyamt 383Tajalajt 133-4Talassemtane National

Park 258-62Talassemtane Village 261Taliouine 372-4talismans 387Tamegroute 124Tamlalt Valley 135Tamnougalt 120Tamraght 363-4Tan Tan 396-7 Tangier 220-36, 222, 225,

231, 302accommodation 226-9activities 224drinking 232-3entertainment 233events 226 festivals 226food 229-32history 220-1information 234-5itineraries 220nightlife 232-3 shopping 233-4sights 221-4tours 224, 226travel to/from 235-6travel within 236

Tan Tan 396-7Taouz 150tapas 241Tarfaya 398-9Targa 262-3Taroudannt 15, 366-72,

368, 15Tata 379-81taxes 467taxis 487-8

grands taxis 487petit taxis 488

Taza 347-51, 348, 350Tazekka 377-8

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

509IN

DEX T-Z

Tazzarine 151Tegragra 383telephone services 475-80Telouet 110-11Tetouan 243-8, 244-5Tichka Plateau 367Tighmert Oasis 396time 475-6Timguilcht 381Timidarte 119, 120-1Tinejdad 141-2Tinerhir 137-8Tinfou Dunes 124Tinzouline 119tipping 469-70Tirnmatmat 377-8 Tislit Gorge 383Tizgui 383Tizi n’Test 109, 367Tizi n’Tichka 109-10, 316Tiznit 383-8, 384Tizourgane Kasbah 377Tnine 98Todra Gorge 138-40, 139toilets 476Tomb of Ibn Battuta 223Torres de Alcala 268Toubkal National Park

100-8, 106tourist information 476tours 488, see also walking

tourstrain travel 482, 488-90,

489tram travel 488travellers cheques 470travel to/from Morocco

481-3travel within 484-50trekking 32-9, 258-62, 317,

see also camel treksAnti Atlas 12, 380-3, 12Chefchaouen 250, 252-3

trekking continued Club Alpin Français 161Dadès Gorge 135Essaouira 211Jebel el-Kelaâ 250, 259Jebel Saghro 132-5, 134Jebel Siroua 382-3Jebel Tazekka 349 Jebel Toubkal 103-9, 106M’Goun Traverse 93-6,

95planning 260Tafraoute 374Taliouine 373

Tazekka National Park 349

tuberculosis 493TV 468typhoid 493

Vvacations 471-2vaccinations 491vegetarian travellers 435villages 18, see also

individual villagesvisas 16, 476-8Volubilis (Oualili) 14, 331-4,

333, 14volunteering 90, 478

Wwalking tours

Casablanca 166-7, 167 Fez 294-5, 295Marrakesh 58-9

wallsRoyal Walls 239

water 494waterfalls

Cascades de Sefrou 314Immouzzer des Ida

Outanane 366weather 16, see also

individual regionsweaving 448websites 17, 467, 492weights 468western Sahara 44, 352-3,

399-406, 421, 353west Mediterranean Coast

220-43white-water rafting 31wildlife 259, 458-9windsurfing 31, 202, 402women’s health 494women travellers 478-

80, 494woodwork 450work 480

ZZagmouzen Valley 383Zagora 121-2, 121Zaouiat Ahansal 10, 88-

90, 10Zat Valley 96-7zawiyas 455zellij 449Ziz Valley 142-50

510

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Lorna ParkesFez Meknes and the Middle Atlas Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex-Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has spent more than 10 years ex-ploring the globe in search of the perfect meal, the friendliest B&B, the best-value travel experience, and the most spectacular lookout point – both for her own pleasure and other people’s. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. Wineries and the

tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Regis St LouisCentral Morocco Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest–the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel–and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him

from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415312th edition – August 2017ISBN 978 1 786 570 321© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJessica LeeMarrakesh Jess high-tailed it for the road at the age of 18 and hasn’t looked back since. In 2011 she swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing and since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia. She has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia. Jess has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia, and Vietnam guidebooks

and her travel writing has appeared in Wanderlust magazine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.com.

Brett AtkinsonSouthern Morocco and Western Sahara For this new edition of Morocco, Brett trav-elled from his New Zealand home to explore the fascinating medinas of Taroudannt and Tiznit, the spectacular Atlantic coastline, and the compellingly wild desert vistas of the Sahara. An absolute highlight was the poignant and elegant Spanish Art Deco architecture of Sidi Ifni. Brett’s contributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning

Europe, Africa, Asia and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Paul ClammerMediterranean Coast and the Rif Paul Clammer has worked as a molecular biologist, tour leader and travel writer. Since 2003 he has worked as a guide-book author for Lonely Planet, contributing to over 25 LP titles, covering destinations including swathes of South and Central Asia, West and North Africa and the Caribbean. In recent years he’s lived in Morocco, Jordan, Haiti

and Fiji, as well as his native England. Find him online at paulclammer.com or on Twitter as @paulclammer.

Virginia MaxwellAtlantic Coast Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. The Mediterranean is her favourite place to travel, and she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for LP guide-

books – there are only eight more countries to go! Virginia also writes about Armenia, Iran and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

OVERPAGE

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