berlin in your pocket

Berlin

The Wall 25 years later Anniversary celebrations

West Berlin New life in the old west

October - November 2014

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

N°71 - €1.75

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October - November 2014 3 facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Contents

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 42

The gentrifi ed north

Berlin Friedrichshain 46

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

Berlin Kreuzberg 48

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

City Tours 56

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

Potsdam 58

Royal palaces and grand gardens

Directory 59

Maps & IndexStreet register 60

City map 61-63

Public transport map 64-65

Index 66

Transport 5

Getting around by S&U

Sports in Berlin 6

All about Berlin’s top teams

Basics 8

Essential travel tips

Mauerfall 925 Years after the Wall

Culture & Events 10

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte 20

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32

Genteel western Berlin

BERLIN BOXES

Scattered throughout the guide you’ll fi nd boxes with more information about these topics:

Berlin in books 55Cold War Berlin 39Erasmus Student Network 8West Berlin Revival 41

SYMBOL KEY

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery E Live music

N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

B Outside seating G Non-smoking room

S Take away R Internet

W Wi-Fi

Additional symbols for hotels

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

L Guarded parking H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre K Restaurant

D Sauna C Swimming pool

Dinner price guideThe number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine.

€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.

€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.

€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.

€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.

Gendamenmarkt AM

Wartburgstraße 54, Berlin - SchönebergOpen daily from 18:00

Tel. 784 20 59www.renger-patzsch.com

Local cuisine

4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 5 facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Foreword TransportAll of us at Berlin In Your Pocket clearly remember the night the Wall fell 25 years ago, even though we were in diff erent cities and countries at the time; for all of us it was clear a momentous change was taking place that would change our horizon. It’s easy to lose track of what Berlin has gone through since then; two isolated, rather provincial towns have haphazardly merged into a thriving metropolis that despite a lack of obvious beauty has become a magnet for visitors from near and far.

In November, major anniversary celebrations are planned; see p.9 for the programme and further details. Plenty of sights related to the Wall can be visited at other times too; see p.39 for a selection. And if history isn’t your thing, there are dozens of other concerts, parties, exhibitions and events planned; see our events selection from p.10 for suggestions.

Even though all the attention is focused on the old East, try to look the other way too; West Berlin has recently undergone a lot of investment, with several hotels, malls and attractions newly opened this year. See p.41 for our overview.

Whatever you do this autumn, let us know your tips and comments at [email protected]. Enjoy Berlin.

CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

DUTCHCARIBBEAN

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIA

GREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

COVER STORY

Original parts of the Berlin Wall on Bernauer Strasse merge with art. This street forms a 1,5-kilometre open air exhibition about the Berlin Wall, which famously came down 25 years ago. See p.9 for more about the anniversary festivities.

PublisherIn Your Pocket GmbHAxel-Springer-Straße 3910969 BerlinTel: +49 30 27 90 79 81Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 [email protected]

ISSN 1611-9037

Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly

The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.

Editorial Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina KnightResearch Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman, Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)Maps Kartographie Eichner, Cover © Axel Lauer | Dreamstime.com

Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan KrämerProduction Manager Philippe KrügerAccounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger, CoCoMedia ([email protected])

Copyright notice & Editor’s noteText and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTBerlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local.Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short

distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day pass (€28,80). Groups of up to fi ve people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for transport and some attractions.Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fi ned €40 on the spot.

BVGThe Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected], www.bvg.de.

TAXISCITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.

FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de.

TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.

THE TOURIST TICKET

berlin-welcomecard.de

free ride around the clock

200 discounts

city map + guide

from 18,50 €

Available at the Berlin Tourist Infos, BVG + S-Bahn, in many hotels and online.

ABOUT IYP

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our fi rst guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over fi ve million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).


Sports in BerlinSports in Berlin

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing fi ve exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches.

Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an international sports event destination. The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however as the club websites are not all available in English, and some make it diffi cult to fi nd the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. Berlin’s offi cial English-language sports website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. The Alba Berlin basketball team, also known as the Albatrosses, is based in Berlin-Friedrichshain’s impressive O2-World stadium. The team was founded in 1989 but is already eight-time winner of the German championship, last in March 2013, and coming second in 2014. Under coach Sasa Obradovic, a refreshed team with young new talent including Jamel McLean, Jonathan Tabu and Niels Giff ey kicks off the 2014-15 season in early October.Enjoy cheering for Berlin!

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Germany’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. The current team’s average height is an impressive 1,98m. Since going pro in 1991,

Alba has won the German League 8 times and the German Cup 7 times (including 2013), and was also the fi rst German team to win an international title with the 1995 Korac Cup.Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2 World stadium on the following dates:2 Oct, 18:30: BG Göttingen8 Oct, 20:00: San Antonio Spurs12 Oct, 17:00: Ratiopharm Ulm17 Oct, 20:15: ZSKA Moskau30 Oct, 20:00: Maccabi Tel Aviv7 Nov, 20:00: Limoges CSP9 Nov, 17:00: FC Bayern München23 Nov, 17:00: Basketball Löwen Braunschweig27 Nov, 20:15: Unicaja MalagaQI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)

Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title fi ve times, including in 2013 and 2014 under trainer Mark Lebedew.Their upcoming home games are:29 Oct, 19:30: TV Ingersoll Bühl6 Nov, 19:30: ACH Volley Ljubljana8 Nov, 18:00: CV Mitteldeutschland15 Nov, 18:00: TSV Herrsching22 Nov, 18:00: Netzhoppers KW-Bestensee29 Nov, 18:00: SVG Lüneburg

QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.

EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)Originating in 1953 in East Ger-many’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ is Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They have won the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times, more than any other team, most recently in 2013 under Canadian

coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the European Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured atmosphere.Their upcoming home matches are:5 Oct, 14:30: Düsseldorfer EG10 Oct, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt19 Oct, 16:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings26 Oct, 14:30: Iserlohn Roosters2 Nov, 17:45: EHC Red Bull München16 Nov, 14:30: Grizzly Adams Wolfsburg21 Nov, 19:30: Augsburger Panther28 Nov, 19:30: Krefeld PinguineQI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46.

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)FC Union is the work-ing man’s football team for Berlin, orig-inating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared

counterpart for the GDR’s state-infl uenced Dynamo club. Union is still fi ercely independent, based in their charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the 1990s, but has had more success in the national com-petitions since the early 2000s.

Upcoming home games:18 Oct, 13:00: SV Sandhausen31 Oct, 18:30: SpVgg Greuther Fürth22 Nov, 13:00: TSV 1860 München

QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43.

FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)“The foxes’, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s famous Max-Schmel-ing-Halle, named after the German boxing legend who was world champion heavyweight

between 1930-32. The Füchse compete in Germany’s Handball Liga and the European Champions League, and won the German cup at the end of the very suc-cesful 2013-2014 season.

Upcoming home games:11 Oct, 16:15: THW Kiel14 Oct, 19:00: HC Erlangen26 Oct, 17:15: MT Melsungen9 Nov, 17:15: TSG Friesenheim

QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium which was built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and is know as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old dame, witnessing its glory years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached the German Championship fi nals 6 times, winning it twice. Nowadays Hertha’s fortunes are mixed, but the fan base remains loyal.Upcoming home matches:3 Oct, 20:30: VfB Stuttgart25 Oct, 15:30: Hamburger SV7 Nov, 20:30: Hannover 9629 Nov, 15:30: FC Bayern MünchenQOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.

Alba playing at the O2 World Stadium


Basics 25 Years after the Wall

BASIC DATA

Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km.Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962mHighest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114mHighest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66mBerlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

DRINKS & ALCOHOLGermans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only real-ly palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock-tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caff eine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

CRIME & SAFETYBerlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European cap-itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk-ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITYElectrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand-ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

MONEYGermany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denom-inations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offi ces can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIESEU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt offi ce is offi cially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schen-gen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

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ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK

How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.

As the dictatorships in Eastern Europe crumbled one by one between 1989 and 1991, one event stood out as the symbol for this dramatic turn of fate for Europe and the world: the fall of the Berlin Wall on 9 November 1989. East Germany wasn't the fi rst country to push its ageing communists aside, nor was it the last. But the pace of change here was so fast, and the opening of the deadly border that split the city for 28 years was so unexpected, that it surprised the most knowledgeable of experts.

The actual event leading to crowds of East Germans streaming across the border was a moment of unintended comedy; Communist Party spokesman Günter Schabowski slipped up during a press conference on the evening of 9 November in which he announced the suspension of travel restrictions, saying this would take eff ect immediately. Border guards along the Wall were surprised by the growing crowds and eventually locked away their weapons and opened the border gates to avoid escalation – essentially signalling the end of the East German state.

PROGRESSSeveral places in Berlin can be visited to learn more about the Berlin Wall and see some of the remains; most important is the offi cial memorial on Bernauer Strasse, where a newly renovated information centre overlooks an original part of the death strip. See the Mitte chapter for other Wall-related sights and museums.

It's easy to forget how much progress was made since those joyful days in November 1989; West-Berlin was an over-subsidised and unsustainable half-city, while in East Berlin

both the society and the city centres were crumbling away. It took decades for the two Berlins to grow together again, and only now that the traces of the Wall become ever more faint, and as West Berlin enjoys increased attention, that we can start to say the city is truly reunited. For those who remember 1989, it's odd to imagine that in the meantime a new generation of Berliners who were born after this event has grown up. And in just 3 years, the Wall will have been gone just as long as it once divided this city. Berliners have no doubt that the Wall won't be forgotten soon.

© Kulturprojekte Berlin WHITEvoid / Christopher Bauder, Photo Daniel Büche

ANNIVERSARY EVENTS

79 NOVEMBERVarious events take place in Berlin in the anniversary weekend of 7-9 November. A 15-kilometre ‘Border of Light’, consisting of 8000 lit-up balloons, follows the route of the Wall through central Berlin between Bornholmer Strasse and the Oberbaumbrücke bridge. Each balloon has a patron, whose personal stories can be read at www.fallofthewall25.com. On Sunday 9 November there’s a service at the Bernauer Strasse memorial, followed by the opening of the renovated documentation centre. In the afternoon, Mikhail Gorbachev, Miklós Németh, Lech Wałęsa and other key personalities kick off celebrations at Gendarmenmarkt, after which Daniel Barenboim directs an open-air concert at the Brandenburg Gate. Around 19:00 the 8,000 balloons along the Wall are released. Read more about this and all other events related to the Wall anniversary at wall.visitBerlin.com.


Culture & EventsCulture & EventsBerlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres

and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of matches played

year-round.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC DEUTSCHE OPER BERLINWest Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. Tickets from €16.

KOMISCHE OPERStarting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3, Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150.

KONZERTHAUS BERLINTogether with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de. Tickets €10-99.

STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATERThe venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstraße 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.

SHOWS ADMIRALSPALASTThis former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.

WINTERGARTEN: MADNESS

From 15 October until 18 February, the Magical Mystery Show is all about illusion. The red velvet curtain raises to reveal Grand Masters of magic, who make the impossible seem possible, creating magical and mysterious moments where nothing is as it seems. Lead by magician Thomas Otto, the magicians from around the world turn the Wintergarten theatre into a dreamlike place of illusion. Join them on a journey into the world of the unexplained.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00.

BERLINER RESIDENZ CONCERTS

Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal surroundings. Baroque-era culinary delicacies and musical masterpieces are combined in the magical surroundings of the extravagant former summer residence of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The orchestra plays masterpieces of the 17th and 18th centuries, by Bach, Händel, Mozart, Vivaldi and others. Concerts are held every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday in October at 20:30 (except 17 Oct), and November (except 8, 28 Nov). The fi rst Christmas Advent concert takes place on 30 Nov at 16:00.

BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTEQSpandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com.

BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTEThe Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays famous Baroque-era works by candlelight, with musicians in period costumes - a unique opportunity to get a good idea of what it was like to attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle or a trip on the river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3, Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend, tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.concerts-berlin.com. Din-ner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets €29-79.

BLUE MAN GROUPThe (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE-4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €69.

FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALASTNo one does over-the-top better than the producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show-palace.eu. Tickets €18-106.

Thomas Otto © Photo: Peter Noreick

schaubühneTheatre with English surtitles+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

We offer several shows with English surtitles every month.All upcoming shows with surtit-les are announced at www.schaubuehne.de/surtitlesTickets: 030.890023 | www.schaubuehne.deClassical

MasterpiecesItaly as Prussia‘s guest

Every Wednesday, Friday and SaturdayDinner: 18:00Concert: 20:30

tel. 030-258 10 35-0www.concerts-berlin.com


Culture & EventsCulture & Events HINTERM HORIZONTThe musical based on the songs of German rock legend Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free portable translator device (book in advance), international visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. ‘Behind the horizon’ is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who spies on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany, they piece together their history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets €38-97.

TIPI AM KANZLERAMTContinuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.QE-3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Tickets €15-45.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉOne of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.

FIRST WORLD WAR

19141918: THE FIRST WORLD WARUntil 30 November. Characterised as the “seminal catastrophe” of the 20th century, nine million soldiers and almost six million civilians died in the First World War, the first industrialised, total war in history. It changed not only subsequent armed conflicts, but also influenced political thought and action for many years to come. The German Historical Museum’s special exhibition offers a multifaceted overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and consequences, and approaches this previously unknown escalation of violence from a broad perspective. It takes 14 salient places as points of departure, battlefields such as Verdun, Tannenberg or Gallipoli, but also political-cultural centres like Petrograd and Berlin as well as occupied cities and regions, including Brussels and Galicia. All of the places point to overriding developments: the modernisation of war technology with its disastrous consequences for the people, the worldwide wartime economy, the global escalation of the fighting as well as the totalisation of the war, which not only affected the soldiers on the fronts, but also mobilised the entire population.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter den Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets.

EVENT TICKETS

Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel concierges, at ticket offi ces (also in major department stores) and online.

EVENTIM An online booking service with event tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.

HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC-4, Harden-bergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologis-cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.

KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick-up.QH-4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gör-litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan-guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.papagena.de.

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FILM FESTIVALS

Apart from the huge Berlinale fi lm festival in February, Berlin has over 40 smaller international fi lm festivals throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.

5-12 Oct: Latin American FF, Babylon, www.lakino-bln.com

16-19 Oct: Zebra Poetry FF, Babylon, www.literaturwerkstatt.org

22-26 Oct: Porn FF, www.pornfi lmfestivalberlin.de

4-9 Nov: East European Cinema FF, Cottbus, www.fi lmfestivalcottbus.de

29 Oct - 9 Nov: Première Brasil, HKW, www.hkw.de

9–16 Nov: Kuki Children’s FF, 2 venues, www.kuki-berlin.com

11-16 Nov: Interfi lm Shorts FF, 6 venues, www.interfi lm.de

11-16 Nov: Afrikamera, Arsenal, www.afrikamera.de

1-9 Nov: Spanish FF, Babylon, www.berlinspanischesfi lmfest.com

26 Nov - 3 Dec: Russian Filmweek, 3 venues, www.russische-fi lmwoche.de

28 Nov - 7 Dec: Around the World in 14 fi lms, Babylon, www.14fi lms.de

Surgical instruments from a military hospital, Germany 1914© Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum, Photo: Sebastian Ahlers

Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €25-60.

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCEBerlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; it’s getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.

Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.

ENGLISH THEATRE BERLINBerlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the little black box’s stage.QF-5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, [email protected], www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18.


Culture & EventsCulture & Events

Events

CLASSICAL MUSIC5 Oct, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester BerlinConductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Haydn and MahlerPH

9 & 10 Oct, 20:30Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Cameron Carpenter (organ)Conductor: Giancarlo Guerrero; organ concerto by Terry RileyPH

11 Oct, 20:00Robert Leonardy (piano)Works by Busoni, Schulhoff , Stravinsky and SchubertPH

12 Oct, 20:00Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Dorothea Röschmann (soprano)Conductor: Marc Albrecht; Works by Ligeti, Berg and MahlerPH

DALÍ EXHIBITION DISCOUNT

The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dalí’s life and work, and details of the specific artworks in the exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format illustrations.

Until 30 November 2014, readers of Berlin In Your Pocket can purchase the book for €14,95 instead of €19,95 on presentation of this guidebook (for ticket-holders of the exhibition only; may not be combined with other off ers).

DALÍ EXHIBITION

With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural highlight ‘Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz’ off ers the most complete overview of Dalí’s virtuous and exper-imental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in the heart of Berlin. As Dalí once said: “Come into my brain”. In keeping with this spirit ’Surrealism for all’, visitors to Ber-lin now have the chance to discover ‘their Dalí’.

DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00. Admission €11, reduced €9.

© DaliBerlin.de

DEUTSCHE OPER: CONCERTS AWAY FROM HOME

Berlin’s famous Deutsche Oper orchestra is spending a few months away from their home theatre due to renovation works – and they’re making the most of their carpentry shop spaces and other alternative locations. Programme highlights for this season are:

1 Oct: Dinorah oder Die Wallfahrt nach Ploermel (concert version) – Berliner Philharmonie; with Patrizia Ciofi , Jana Kurucová; Etienne Dupuis, Philippe Talbot. Conductor: Enrique Mazzola.

14 Oct: Ariadne auf Naxos (concert version) – Berliner Philharmonie; with Anja Harteros, Daniela Sindram, Susanne Elmark; Stefan Vinke, Markus Brück. Conductor: Ulf Schirmer.

17-19 Oct: Béjart Ballet Lausanne – Tempodrom; soloist: Ronnita Miller, conductors: Donald Runnicles, /James Feddeck. 17-19 Oct: Ce que l’amour me dit; 17-18 Oct: Le Sacre du Printemps ; 19 Oct: Bolero.

5 & 11 Nov: Roberto Devereux (concert version) – Berliner Philharmonie; with Edita Gruberova, Veronica Simeoni; Davide Luciano, Celso Albelo. Conductor: Pietro Rizzo.

6,8,9,17,18,19 Nov: In Transit – Tischlerei; with Alexandra Hutton, Christina Sidak, Elbenita Kajtazi; Gideon Poppe, Jörg Schörner, Carlton Ford, Alvaro Zambrano. Director: Eva-Maria Abelein.

29 Nov: Falstaff - with Martina Welschenbach, Elena Tsallagova, Jana Kurucová; Markus Brück, John Chest. Conductor: Stefan Solyom, Director: Christof Loy.

DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstraße 35, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

CINEMAS

Foreign fi lm off erings in German cinemas are often dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled fi lms; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.

ADRIAThe fi lm Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.QSchloßstraße 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets €7,40-9,40.

BABYLON MITTEA 1920s fi lmhouse with a great program, but beware of dubbed fi lms. The building itself is a example of New Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent fi lms accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. Tickets €7.

CENTRAL KINOArt-house fi lms and mini fi lm fests take place in this small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruff y courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50.

CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINALCineStar IMAX has blockbuster fi lms and documentaries in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood and arthouse movies in their original English version.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13.

HACKESCHE HÖFEMainly shows foreign fi lms in their original language.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.

SPUTNIKBerlin’s highest cinema screens a lot of indie fi lms, many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working your way to the theater, but it’s safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Südstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.com. Tickets €5-6,5.

HALLE TANZBÜHNEA monumental school gym, used for excellent modern dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halle-tanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15.

HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstraße 29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4, Hallesches Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259 00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Tickets €11-18.

KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUBLaughing matters at this comedy club, which has alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights every month: Kim Eustace on the fi rst Tuesday, and the interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaie’s show “How to become a Berliner in one hour”.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €5-16. Shows Tue-Sun.

QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB“Quatsch” is the delicious German word for nonsense, and there’s plenty of it in the shows held in the Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German, but look out for special guests and the regular English-language “Strictly Stand Up” nights. Drinks and snacks like nachos and hot dogs are available.QF-3, Friedrichstr. 107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00 09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets €25-35. Shows Thu-Sun.

RADIALSYSTEM VA fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old pumping station along the Spree river. There’s a restaurant and café too.QH-4, Holzmarktstraße 33, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www.radialsystem.de. Tickets €5-41.

SCHAUBÜHNESet inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically and socially engaged repertoire of this venerable ensemble theatre ranges from classics to contemporary plays, and regularly travels abroad, giving famed directors like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and Katie Mitchell and actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina Hoss the chance to shine abroad. Every month, several shows have English and/or French surtitles. There’s a good theatre café with drinks and simple meals too.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 153, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 23, www.schaubuehne.de. Tickets €7-47.


Culture & EventsCulture & Events8 Nov, 19:00Berliner Philharmoniker, Ivo Kahánek (piano)Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Martinu and BeethovenPH

10 Nov, 20:00Russisches Nationalorchester, Mischa Maisky (cello)Conductor: Mikhail Pletnev; Works by Shostakovitch and TchaikovskyPH

12 Nov, 20:00Lang Lang (piano)Works by Mozart and ChopinPH

13 Nov, 20:00Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Paul Lewis (piano)Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven and HartmannPH

14 Nov, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Janine Jansen (violin)Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Debussy, Chausson, Ravel and Prokofi evPH

17 Nov, 20:00Staatskapelle Berlin, Maria João Pires (piano)Conductor: Paavo Järvi; Works by Messiaen, Mozart and SchumannPH

19 Nov, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester BerlinConductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Dukas, Mozart and StravinskyPH

26 Nov, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester BerlinConductor: Joshua Weilerstein; Works by Shostakovitch, Schumann and TchaikovskyPH

27-29 Nov, 20:00Berliner Philharmoniker, Martha Argerich (piano)Conductor: Riccardo Chailly; Works by Mendelssohn Bartholdy, Schumann and RachmaninovPH

13 & 14 Oct, 20:00Staatskapelle BerlinConductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart and WidmannPH

14 Oct, 20:00Freiburger Barockorchester, Petra Müllejans (violin)Conductor: Gottfried von der Goltz; Works by Händel, Vivaldi and SchmidtPH

16-18 Oct, 20:00Berliner Philharmoniker, Emanuel Ax (piano)Conductor: Andris Nelsons; Works by Mozart and StraussPH

21 Oct, 20:00Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Alice Sara Ott (piano)Conductor: Karel Mark Chichon; Works by Dvorák and GriegPH

23-25 Oct, 20:00Berliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Daniele Gatti; Works by Wagner, Brahms, Haydn and BergPH

26 Oct, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Alban Gerhardt (cello)Conductor: Matthias Pintscher; Works by Wagner, Bartók and PintscherPH

29-31 Oct, 20:00Berliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Emmanuelle Haïm; Works by HändelPH

2 Nov, 20:00Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester BerlinConductor: Kent Nagano; Works by Berg and BrucknerPH

5 Nov, 20:00Mitsuko Uchida (piano)Works by Franz and BeethovenPH

7 Nov, 20:00Berliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kurtág, Lachenmann and BeethovenPH

MARIANNE FAITHFULL & URBAN DANCE

On 25 November, legend-ary singer-songwriter and actress Marianne Faith-full visits Berlin for her “50th Anniversary Tour” concert at the Tempodrom. She recounts half a century of her successes with her characteristic voice, play-

ing hits like Broken English, Vagabond Ways and As Tears Go By.

Urban Dance fans can look forward to mesmerising performances of Popping, Hip Hop, House, Locking, BBoying and Voguing styles during the Snipes Funkin’ Stylez international Urban Dance Battle, from 20-22

November. The preselec-tion, followed by parties, take place at the Ritter Butzke club in Kreuzberg, while the World Team Bat-tle is at Tempodrom. For more details and tickets see www.semmel.de.

TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

25.11.2014 Tempodrom 20:00 Uhr

www.prknet.dewww.mariannefaithfull.org.uk

09.10.2014Tempodrom (Kl. Arena)

20:00 Uhr

20.11.2014 Tempodrom

20:00 Uhr

15.10.2014 Columbiahalle

20:00 Uhr

Potsdamer Straße 96, D -10785 Berlin TiergartenTicket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de

S U I T A B L E F O R I N T E R N A T I O N A L V I S I T O R S

bit.ly/wigaweb #wigamagic

NEW MAGICIANS NEW ILLUSIONS

15 October 2014 – 15 February 2015Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00 Mo + Tue no performances

(in November and December additorial performances)

Tickets from € 32*

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THE SHOW OF ILLUSIONS

*Prices plus advance booking fee and € 2 system fee/ ticket

In cooperation with CABUWAZI and the Berliner Märchentage

23, 30 Nov., 7, 14, 21, 22, 23, 28 + 29 Dec. 2014Tickets from € 12*

Our annual classic for the Festive Season

The Variet y Show by children for the whole family

p r e s e n t e d b y


Culture & EventsCulture & Events

CONCERTS9 Oct, 20:00Elvis Costello (singer/songwriter)AD

9 Oct, 20:00Jan Delay & Disko No. 1 (Funk)MS

9 Oct, 19:30Lady Gaga (Pop)O2

15 Oct, 20:00Lindsey Stirling (Classical/Pop)CH

27 Oct, 19:30Kylie Minogue (Pop)O2

5 Nov, 20:00Lykke Li (Pop)AD

5 Nov, 20:00Lenny Kravitz (Rock/Soul)O2

WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS

KILKENNY IRISH PUBFun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand in hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish Pub is where you fi nd it. Watch all major sport events, Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc. on large screens, together with locals and tourists from all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

THE HARPJust one minute off Kurfürstendamm, The Harp is a haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full of excitement and entertainment while following international football, rugby and other sports, or playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. EBW

KNUTSCHFLECKBerlin Burlesque and more. Opening in October. See p. 24 for more information.

Until 30 Nov1914–1918: The First World WarNine million soldiers and almost six million civilians died in the First World War, the fi rst industrialised, total war in history. It changed not only subsequent armed confl icts, but also infl uenced political thought and action for many years to come. This special exhibition off ers a multifaceted overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and consequences, and approaches this previously unknown escalation of violence from a broad perspective.DH

Until 31 DecMoshe Gershuni – No Father No MotherMoshe Gershuni (Tel Aviv, 1936) is one of the most important Israeli artists. His existential work - an ongoing project over more than forty years - is uncompromising, and his paintings, drawings and sculptures leave plenty of room for associations. Gershuni works horizontally. He covers the fl oor with paper and crawls across with his hands soaked in paint.NA

Until 4 January 2015Die Welt der Wikinger – The World of the VikingsThe new exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau uses spectacular archaeological fi nds, including a huge ship, to illustrate the history of the Vikings in northern Europe and beyond.MG

VENUE LIST BERLIN

AD – ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstraße 101-102, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.

CH – COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21, tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.

DH – DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, Unter den Linden 2, tel. +49 30 20 30 44 44, www.dhm.de.

MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.

MS – MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz, tel. +49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.

NA – NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer Straße 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51, www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.

O2 – O2 WORLD, O2-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, www.o2world-berlin.de.

PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

RS – RADIALSYSTEM V, Holzmarktstraße 33, tel. +49 30 28 87 88 50

19 Nov, 20:00Linkin Park (Rock)O2

EXHIBITIONS16 Oct - 16 NovMonth of Photography BerlinWith 125 exhibitions across the city, Berlin’s biannual Month of Photography is dedicated to ‘Upheavals and utopia: the other Europe’, with themes like borders, immigration and refugees taking centre stage. Young and old, classic and experimental photography can all be admired at the participating venues; the main exhibition in the Martin-Gropius-Bau (until 14 Dec, admission free) shows the contemporary photography exhibition “MemoryLab: The Sentimental Turn”. For more details see www.mdf-berlin.de.MG & other venues

1 & 2 NovemberMuseumsfest Deutsches Historisches MuseumThis year’s museum festival at the German Historical Museum is all about the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall; visitors can learn more about the event, note down their personal memories and watch fi lms; admission to the exhibitions is free.DH

WEST:BERLIN EXHIBITION

To anyone who realises how crazy Berlin’s history is, it’s not surprising at all that the new West:Berlin exhibition is located in an elegant palace in the former East Berlin that itself was dismantled and stored in West Berlin for many years. For half a century, West Berlin was a heavily politicised and highly subsidised ‘Island of Freedom’ marooned inside the GDR, and 500 exhibits show the development of this half of the city, from post-war ruins via its function as a showcase of the western Allies, and from the years of decline after the fall of the Wall in 1989 to its current revival. Photographs, art, objects, cars and an audio-salon with the sounds of the half-city demonstrate why West for many is still best.

WEST:BERLIN, 14 Nov - 28 June. Open Tue-Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Ephraim-Palais, G-3, Poststr. 16, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.west.berlin. Admission €7, fi rst Wednesday of the month free.


MitteMitte

GERMAN ALPENSTUECKWiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF-2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS

JOSEPH ROTH DIELEA wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolifi c Jewish writer whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of Berlin’s nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious Flammkuchen pies are served, and it’s a great place for a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, opposite.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. TENGBSW

MUTTER HOPPEHead down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll fi nd the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen off ers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€. TEGB

RESTAURATION 1840Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840 creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage. There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can shake up a great cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, [email protected], www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00. EGBW

SCHWARZWALDSTUBENBambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional

treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNBS

ZILLE-STUBEThe name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-stuff ed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. E

ASIAN KAMALARespectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB

MONSIEUR VUONGHanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese restaurant in Mitte. There are only fi ve dishes and two daily specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fi ght the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take reservations.QG-2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S

FINE DINING AIGNEROne of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF-3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. TUGBSW

BORCHARDTBorchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good fi rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile fl oors whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a diff erent menu each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,

Restaurants & Cafés

Since reunifi cation, the old city centre district Mitte (meaning ‘middle’) has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café. Only traces are left of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th century, welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.

Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s. Traffi c passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule victory column. The Straße des 17. Juni leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz district with its soaring corporate buildings.

Getting thereArrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof station, central for the city but not really close to anything. S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.

Pocket WalkStart off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstraße for the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north along Friedrichstraße and turn right at Mohrenstraße for Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Straße, and pass through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche Höfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Straße for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here back to Brandenburger Tor.

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Mitte Mitte

SOPHIENECKA favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted trendifi cation, staying true to its warm mishmash decor of art nouveau and poster art. The menu off ers delicious Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine list.QG-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife

BARS AUFSTURZThe great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, [email protected], www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB

ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMPAn island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffi tied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, aff ordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign fi lms in original version.QG-3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, [email protected], www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW

the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. GB

FACILAt the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h

FISCHERS FRITZThe restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and the light, fi sh-focused menu is for a very refi ned palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef fi rst trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a fi replace.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fi schersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00. €€€€. PAG hh

PARIS-MOSKAUMany train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station - on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly positioned between new government offi ces and hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. A

INDIAN AAPKALocated on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, Aapka off ers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B

INTERNATIONAL NOLA’S AM WEINBERGThis hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order meals until midnight.QG-2, Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS

REINHARD’SReinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coff ee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3, Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€. TGBS

TRAUBEIn an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff , ‘The Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross-over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. TGB

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELIBarcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coff ee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaff eerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coff ee.QF-5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, [email protected], www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS

DIGITAL EATERYJust a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very fi rst café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices or use the free wifi . Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games. To celebrate the first anniversary of Microsoft Berlin, the Digital Eatery offers a 20% discount on the lunch menu in November; simply mention “Berlin In Your Pocket discount”.QF-3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

SANKT OBERHOLZA large two-fl oor café overlooking the busy street crossing. Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, it’s the ideal place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using the free wifi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the coff ee, bagels, muffi ns and New York cheesecake.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. GW

BACK TO SCHOOL

The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.

DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.

GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de.

Digital Eatery

Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAUAlt-Moabit 141tel. 394 20 [email protected]

Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00Mon-Sun from 18:00


Mitte Mitte

NEW KNUTSCHFLECKOpening in October, the ‘hickey’ is Berlin’s newest Burlesque-style bar, located on Alexanderplatz opposite the Park Inn hotel. Run by a group of local ladies, this is a café, Biergarten, restaurant, cocktail bar and show theatre in one. Expect a programme of events held on the stage, including performances inspired by Coyote Ugly, Rocky Horror Picture Show, Pulp Fiction, Moulin Rouge and more. There’s also Berlinerisch food, beer and cakes, and a selection of 150 cocktails that fl uctuate in price as demand changes.QG-3, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.knutschfl eck-berlin.com.

MEIN HAUS AM SEEIt’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks, exotic coff ee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG-2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, [email protected], www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW

REINGOLDA lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn off spring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF-2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, [email protected], www.reingold.de. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB

CLUBS KAFFEE BURGERThe patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaff eeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E

WEEK-END CLUBA club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th fl oor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.

PUBS KILKENNY IRISH PUBThe three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station off er more than enough space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages fl ow freely.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS BRANDENBURGER TORBerlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.

GENDARMENMARKTTwin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early 1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans) and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstraße, Mitte, MU Französische Straße.

NEUE SYNAGOGEThe gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, fi rst

on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but eff ective sound installation adds to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3.

NIKOLAIVIERTELBerlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fi shermen’s settlement fi rst began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could aff ord. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fi ll the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that fl aunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.Kilkenny Irish Pub

Soda Club House - R´n´B - SoulDanceclassics - electro

KulturBrauerei

Soda Club

CASINO

SPIELBANK BERLINThe casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette, American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book a tour including game instructions.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.


Mitte Mitte

POTSDAMER PLATZOnce a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suff ered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and offi ce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

REICHSTAGThe name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fi re just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

CHURCHES BERLINER DOMThe fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4.

DEUTSCHER DOMThe baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fi re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top fl oor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FRANZÖSISCHER DOMThe northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKEROne lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF-3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPEThis bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a fi eld of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fi lls two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, [email protected], www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUMS BLACK BOX COLD WARThe exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF-4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, [email protected], www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WARCheckpoint CharlieFriedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Visitors’ service [email protected] More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE

Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte(Nähe Checkpoint Charlie)www.currywurstmuseum.com

Anfahrt | DirectionsU6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.

TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.

ONE YEAR MICROSOFT BERLIN

The first publicly accessible Microsoft Center in the world opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden boulevard a year ago, on 7 November 2013. The historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building with its great architectural details (try to spot the cats and mice around the side door) is the most plugged-in building in the street. The Digital Eatery café on the ground floor (see the review elsewhere in this guide) has more than just good food and drinks – visitors can use the free wifi, recharge their devices and try out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware and software, with staff at hand to answer questions. The atrium behind the café is used for meetings, performances and parties, while upstairs corporate clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360° video walls. Microsoft Berlin also has offices and a ‘Microsoft Ventures Accelerator’ for start-ups in the building.

To celebrate their birthday, In Your Pocket readers get a 20% discount on the price of lunch at the Digital Eatery café in the month of November, simply by mentioning “Berlin In Your Pocket discount” at the cash desk. There’s a fresh selection of pasta and meat dishes prepared daily; see www.digitaleatery.de for the menu of the day.

MICROSOFT BERLINQUnter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.microsoft-berlin.de. Café open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

www.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Mitte DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUMAccording to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that fi rst became popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be found at train stations and street corners across the city. This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories and you can taste currywurst too.QF-4, Schützenstraße 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/8,50, Mon 20% less.

DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLINInside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler company’s art collection is presented in four well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets around the museum.QE-4, Alte Potsdamer Straße 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung.daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZThe Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dalí, left a rich heritage of amazing artworks when he went to molten-watch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches, books, fi lms, objects, and documents that are on show here. English-language tours can be booked in advance.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/9, tours €6.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMThe former imperial arsenal - a pretty, pink, early 18th century building by the Spree - houses the impressive German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main building give excellent insight into what makes Germany tick, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF-3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free.

GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER (BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL)The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic fi lm footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Straße

111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free.

GEMÄLDEGALERIEBerlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection.QE-4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, [email protected], www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4.

HAMBURGER BAHNHOFBerlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fi xated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE-2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, [email protected], www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN (FILM AND TV MUSEUM)Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong fi lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda fi lms will impress ‘seen-that’ fi lm buff s. The museum ends with special eff ects and science fi ction.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.

MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE (NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM)All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, [email protected], www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

MUSEUMSINSEL

The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree off ers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity.

ALTE NATIONALGALERIECézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

ALTES MUSEUMThis neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

NEUES MUSEUMBuilt in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular fi nds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has fi nds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

PERGAMON MUSEUMThe Pergamon museum is undergoing major renovations, with the north wing and the hall with the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

International museum

open daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz

entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin) Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot be combinded with other offers. Valid until January, 31st 2015.H

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Mitte Mitte

Shopping

DEPARTMENT STORES ALEXA CENTREA mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with fi ve fl oors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.

MALL OF BERLINOpened in late September, this huge shopping mall sits on the spot where the famous Wertheim department store dazzled Berliners 100 years ago. The huge billion-euro mall has all the usual fashion and electronics retailers, a food court and supermarkets in the basement. Centrepiece is a spectacular 23-metre high covered piazza.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 12, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, www.mallofberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

MARKETS KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKTLining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green Ampelmännchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Hotels

OVER €200 ADLON KEMPINSKIThe reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, [email protected], www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 - 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100). PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh

HILTONMaybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstraße 30, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@

hilton.com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles €145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh

HOTEL DE ROMEOverlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a magnifi cent former bank building from 1889. Wooden panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, [email protected], www.hotelderome.com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles €395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100).

MARRIOTTTen fl oors of superb rooms and conference facilities overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning 3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlin’s fi nest hotels.QE-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh

RITZ-CARLTONA gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 fi ne fruit brandies.QE/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 33 77 77, [email protected], www.ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles €280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast extra. PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

WESTIN GRANDEnviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the

Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, [email protected], www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

€150-200 MANDALAExcellent rooms and apartments for both short and long-term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185-190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00, [email protected], www.themandala.de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra. PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

€75-150 HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELSTwo meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded fl oors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfi sh pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, [email protected], www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG

PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZTowering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all renovated and stocked with a coff eemaker and ironing board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, [email protected], www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles €89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh

PANORAMAPUNKT

PANORAMAPUNKTIt takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th fl oor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff ’s magnifi cent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top fl oors there’s a short fi lm and an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The café and rooftop terrace off er great close-up views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.

© Landesarchiv Berlin

NEUE NATIONALGALERIEYou’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all underground. The marvellous collection includes Otto Dix, George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and Leger and many more modern artists.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.

VIEWPOINTS FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops certainly brings a level of humour to Berlin’s skyline. The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, 70m higher than the Eiff el tower and the tallest building in Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant with a rotating fl oor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Admission €12/8.


Charlottenburg & the WestCharlottenburg & the West

GERMAN APRILThis bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS

BAVARIUMA Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the Europa-Center mall by the Gedächtniskirche. Where buxom waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUG

KNESEAlt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on off er at rustic Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB

RENGER-PATZSCHUpscale German dining with a diff erence. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian fl ammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNECome back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree,

sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD-5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, [email protected], www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

ZILLEMARKTIt’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuff ed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, [email protected], www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB

If ‘downtown’ to you means wide, traffi c-fi lled streets, crowds of shoppers, fi ve-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fi tting the bill in Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche church, left as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and offi ces.

Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafés branching off Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy Wilmersdorf and Schöneberg, the centre of gay Berlin since the days of Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories. We’ve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten (offi cially part of Mitte) here.

Getting thereCharlottenburg’s nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof station, along the main west-east raised city railway and easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From here’s it’s a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstraße or west down Kurfürstendamm.

Pocket Walk: CharlottenburgExplore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station. Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstraße for the KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or head west along Kantstraße to leafy Savignyplatz for calm cafés and refi ned dining, or southwest down grand old Kurfürstendamm for more shopping.


Renger-Patzsch

Wartburgstraße 54Berlin - Schöneberg

Open daily from 18:00Tel. 784 20 59

www.renger-patzsch.com

Local cuisine

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ASIAN SUKSANA short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, [email protected], www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN OTTENTHALThe pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC-4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB

SCHNITZELEINearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in diff erent variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

FINE DINING FIRST FLOORA Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h

HUGOSThe InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant on the 14th fl oor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fi ne fl avours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h

INTERNATIONAL DIEKMANNHerr Diekmann was one of the fi rst to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French fi nesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU

Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB

DRESSLERA good place to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden 39.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB

DUKECreative international crossover meals are served in the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary treats.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.

EINHORNA fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely diff erent menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

ITALIAN FRANCUCCI’SFrancucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home-made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black truffl es.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW

LA FORCHETTAAn upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Königsallee 5b, Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, [email protected], www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. B

LOCANDAA tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fi sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS

SUKSANSUKSANSawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip

to the land of smiles.

Ansbacherstrasse 4(corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)

tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.

ORIGINALTHAIFOOD

Ansbacher Strasse 4corner Kurfürstenstrasse

U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz

Telefon 030.21 01 86 73Telefax 030.21 01 86 88

www.suksan.de

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin

TRAVEL FAR.EAT AT HOME.

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00

Tel. 030-881 70 40Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg

www.zillemarkt.de

Traditional German cuisine

Over 100 years ofcomfort and quality

ZillemarktCaféhaus • Restaurant

J J

Suksan


Charlottenburg & the WestCharlottenburg & the West ZWÖLF APOSTELThe alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options off er good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. TNGBS

JAPANESE SACHIKO SUSHIAn innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC-3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS

SPANISH EL DORADODark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEEThe perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB

CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUSSome guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fl uff ed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,

Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 2860, [email protected], www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB

CAFE KALWILA cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coff ee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.QD-4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. ABW

GRENANDER MORNING GLORYPastries, muffi ns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS

Nightlife

BARS GREEN DOORThis dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.

HEFNERThe most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

ZWIEBELFISCHThe name Zwiebelfi sch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coff ee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfi sch-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW

JAZZ CLUBS A-TRANEConcerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, [email protected], www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. E

Café im Literaturhaus

MAROOUSHRefi ned Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and tasteful décor enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff on a shisha as you await your meal or come on Friday or Saturday for ‘dinner and dance’, with belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E

More reviews online:

berlin.inyourpocket.com



PUBS THE HARPA well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. €-€€. EBW

UNION JACKA corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s fi rst true pubs and continues to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Solid food is available too – home made snacks and and Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUMThe Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly fl oating roof whose translucent skin off ers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, [email protected], www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. Admission €7/5.

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s fi rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its fi nal form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,

Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.

CHURCHES GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHEThe ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark re-minder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowl-edgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gild-ed mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.

MUSEUMS ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free.

C/O BERLINOn 30 October, the famed C/O photo gallery reopens in the iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There’s space for multiple exhibitions, and the gallery kicks off with Will McBride’s series “I Fell in Love With the City” showing how post-war Berlin awakened in the 1950s. Check the site for opening hours and prices.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org.

MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNSTAlongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

PARKS AND GARDENS TIERGARTENThis 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s still a fi ne place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.QC/D/E-3/4.

Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

German, Irish and international cuisine

Thursdays fun-quiz in German & English

Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00

Live sports events on big screens!See our website for the event calendar

Open Monday – Friday from 1 pmSaturday & Sunday from 10 am

Giesebrechtstraße 15 // [email protected] • www.harp-pub.de

Irish Harp

Union Jack

COLD WAR BERLIN

The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and the development of two completely separated cities on both sides of the Wall that ran between them, has led to huge diff erences that cannot be erased in a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era are the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition, and the Tränenpalast, the former border crossing beside Friedrichstraße station. Get insights into daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.


Charlottenburg & the WestCharlottenburg & the West KEMPINSKI BRISTOLThe elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on a swank corner of Ku’damm.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 43 40, [email protected], www.kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

PALACENear the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are large.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, [email protected], www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

SAVOY BERLINUtterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar.QC-4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, [email protected], www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD hhhh

SOFITEL BERLIN KURFÜRSTENDAMMThe 11-story, French-style Sofi tel impresses with sleekly designed rooms with fi ne woods, contemporary art and fantastic views from the upper fl oors. The curved corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@sofi tel.com, www.sofi tel.com. 311 rooms (singles €230 - 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast extra.

SWISSÔTEL BERLINEvery room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. You’ll never want to go home.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, [email protected], www.swissotel-berlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 - 410). Breakfast €21. PHARFLGD hhhhh

ShoppingSHOPPING CENTRES BIKINI BERLINThe new Bikini Berlin ‘concept mall’ is Berlin’s shopping sensation of the year. Inside the renovated landmark 1950s building is a set of boutiques selling everything from fashion, beauty and electronics to art, plus a supermarket, restaurants and cafes. On the lower level there are a dozen cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best of all is the huge terrace with great views across the zoo.QD-4, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun Terrace open 24hrs.

KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (KADEWE)Europe’s largest department store, Berlin’s answer to Harrod’s has 64 escalators linking seven huge fl oors, with two fl oors devoted completely to gourmet food. Have oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 21-24, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Hotels

OVER €200 DAS STUEThe luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found in the spa area, and there’s the fi rst-class Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740). PHUFGKDCW

INTERCONTINENTALNear transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park, the InterContinental off ers quiet nights in modern and spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation options can be found in the large spa complex, with several saunas and fi tness facilities.QD-4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, [email protected], www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 - 350, 498 doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhhh

WALDORF ASTORIABerlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style, with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library on the 15th fl oor with its concierge and great views is a comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run by star chef Pierre Gagnaire off ers fi ne dining and 650 wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from €250). PHAUFLGKDCwW

€150-200 BLEIBTREUIt’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that share the deli and café fronting the boutique-lined street. The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 31, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, [email protected], www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles €115 - 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK

GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADEOverlooking the Bauhaus museum between Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fi tness centre.QD-4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139). PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh

€75-150 BERLIN, BERLINMostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958 hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles. There’s live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Lützowplatz 17, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, [email protected], www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD hhhh

BERLIN PLAZAThe Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-fi . The in-house Knese restaurant has solid traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU

Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, [email protected], www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW

BEST WESTERN PRESIDENTHuge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an old-time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, there’s also a fi tness centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der Urania 16-18, Schöneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 90 30, [email protected], www.president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153 doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305). Breakfast extra. PHARFGKD hhhh

ELLINGTON HOTELSet in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower Suites off ering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31 50, [email protected], www.ellington-hotel.com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, suites €168 - 428). PJHARUFLK

SYLTER HOFSylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.QD-3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, [email protected], www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80 singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129 - 210). HAG hhh

WEST BERLIN REVIVAL

After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which included the entire city centre district. After the fall of the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east to the original city centre. Now however, the West is undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly renovated Gedächtniskirche stands the gleaming new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin. Just across the tracks, the C/O Berlin photo gallery opens this autumn. If that’s not enough reason to look west, the intriguing West:Berlin exhibition opens in mid-November. Find information about all these Western attractions elsewhere in this guide.


Prenzlauer BergPrenzlauer BergOn a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989, the cool brigade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The number of wine shops and young parents pushing

pricey prams indicates the level of gentrifi cation here. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

Getting thereThe U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefel-derplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions. From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most conven-ient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.

Pocket Walk: Prenzlauer BergStart walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße with its excellent Wall Memorial.

HOTEL

PRECISE MYER’SEntered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms overlooking the garden. On the ground fl oor, a tearoom has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Straße 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40, [email protected], www.myershotel.de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85 - 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, 10 Premium €115 - 265). HARG

GERMAN DIE SCHULEModern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die-schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW

RESTAURATION 1900Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at the weekly market, and on Sundays to fi ll up at the all-you-can-eat breakfast buff et.QH-2, Husemannstraße 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €-€€. TBSW

ZANDERThis award-winning restaurant is a fi ne blend of tradition, innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstraße 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISSThe Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG-1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL FLEISCHLUSTA spot for those with healthy lust for fl esh can grill ‘n chill. Staff in 1930s outfi ts serve excellent steaks, cooked anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14, www.fl eischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.

GUGELHOFDuring the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrifi cation, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try fl ammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH-2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, [email protected], www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A


Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1

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ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNIAtypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURMDiscounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this fi ve-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak English.QH-2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

CAFÉS ANNA BLUMENamed after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha fl ower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coff ee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells fl owers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coff ee and fresh fl owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

SCHALL UND RAUCH‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buff et on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and aff ordable double rooms.QG-1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife

BARS AUGUST FENGLERA neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.

SANTIAGOThis cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub – but manages to get the punters in with a range of attractively priced off ers like cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at weekends.QH-2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open 16:00 - 03:00.

WEINSTEINAn older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH-1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, [email protected], www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

WOHNZIMMERIf the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS GEBURTSTAGSKLUBTwenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION

PRENZLAUER BERG TOURIST INFORMATION CENTREPrenzlauer Berg’s district tourist information centre is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Staff advise about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG-1/2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

SODA CLUBIn the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, [email protected], www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREIFollow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually fi nd an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is fi lled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t fi nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUSGentrifi cation has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment in its original state, with extensive information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARKThe immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a fl ea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info.

Shopping

BOOKS SHAKESPEARE & SONSAn excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language books as well as coff ee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1, Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN

Bags with exchangeable fl aps in over 100 diff erent designs. Two fl aps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion.QH-1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, [email protected], www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARKVegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark fl ea market. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770, tausche.de


FriedrichshainFriedrichshainFriedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, graffi ti and leftist students moaning about Touri’s encroaching on their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße is full of cafés and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the popular Sunday fl eamarket. In the former border zone along the river, the ‘MediaSpree’ development plans for offi ces, apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many vocal locals who fear they’ll lose public access to the river. This chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.

Getting thereFrom Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer Straße, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram, known as the party tram at night.

Pocket Walk: FriedrichshainGet off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the city panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on Simon-Dach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy stretch of bars and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße takes you to Boxi, Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday fl ea market. Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstraße for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.


GERMAN KEULEKeule, pronounced ‘coy-ler’ and berlinerisch for ‘bro’, is an authentic corner in an increasingly international district. It serves regional cuisine classics such as soljanka soup, a hefty farmer’s breakfast, traditional pork knuckle, cured smoked pork and berry compote dessert. Later on, there’s cocktails and sports on the large screen.QSimon-Dach-Straße 22, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from 12:00. €€. AUB

Keule

SCHNEEWEISSSchneeweiß is extremely stylish, very popular, and very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‘new German cuisine’ on the menu here is easily a match for the chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic design. This is the place to go if you’re looking for a full-on dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstraße 16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TGBS

ASIAN GLORY DUCKExcellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW

INTERNATIONAL SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSEGreat steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBS

CUPCAKE BERLINThe very first thing that we learnt to bake together with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet ‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations. There’s a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup

Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. TUVNGBSW

CAFÉS KAUFBARAt this homey café you can wash down your chocolate croissant with either a coff ee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board games.QJ-4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW

MACONDOMacondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good coff ee and original South American mate tea, sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI-4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, [email protected], www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW

THE NEW DUCK IN TOWNSONNTAGSTR. 31 // BERLIN-FRIEDRICHSHAIN

030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de

MON-FRI 12-24 / SAT+SUN 14-24

Glory Duck

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KreuzbergKreuzbergThanks to a large Turk-ish community and more hippies, anarchists and al-ternative folks than you can shake a bong at, Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, literally cor-nered up against the death strip and left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the pro-testing students of 1968 have grown grey alongside

the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Ora-nienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags.This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.

Getting thereThe Bergmannstraße area is best reached from Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm, or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.

Pocket Walk: KreuzbergKreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park.Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

GERMAN ALTES ZOLLHAUSA bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW

ASIAN CHANA sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, clean-cut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chan-berlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€. UNGBSW

KIMCHI PRINCESSThough this is not Berlin’s fi rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the fi rst one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be diffi cult to fi nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Straße 36, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBSW

Restaurants & Cafés PAGODESimply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait

till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are fl own in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS

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KreuzbergKreuzberg

SAROD’SKreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW

AUSTRIAN AUSTRIAHave your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS

JOLESCHExcellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4, Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB

RIEHMERSThe elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian offi cers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. TGBSW

FAST FOOD

CURRY 36If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus

Thai restaurant

traditional healthy Thai cuisinefresh and dainty

Open daily 12:00-24:00Sundays from 14:00

Friesenstraße 22tel. 69 50 73 33www.sarods.de

Thai restaurant

Sarod’s

Jolesch

who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S

INTERNATIONAL HOPPETOSSEAn elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and international meals to go with good sunset views towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €-€€. NGBSW

SAGE RESTAURANTIf there’s such a thing as industrial charm, this is where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant with starkly modern and white furnishings contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy; in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.QH-4, Köpenicker Straße 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TUEGBW

ITALIAN CICCIOLINADedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo fl ammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW

GORGONZOLA CLUBAn In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH-4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B

BERGMANN CURRYA friendly fast food joint with qual-ity organic Currywurst, fries, meat balls and more. The menus include the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish (served on porcelain, with a glass of champagne), and there’s vegan wurst and burgers, and sweet

potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBerg-mannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

BergmannstrBerlin-Kreuzbwww.bergma

raße 88bergnn-currry.com

ily Open daily 1222:00-24:2:0 00Sunday 12:000-21:00

Fantastic Berliner Currywurst,ner Currywequality organic and vegan snacks,quality organic and vegac ag g ,gnd a rangand ge of hot chili sauces.e of hot chili sof sauceso c s

More reviews online:berlin.inyourpocket.com


KreuzbergKreuzberg

Park, Columbiadamm entrance, tel. +49 152 22 55 91 75, www.luftgarten-berlin.de. Open from 12:00 until around sunset. €. UENGBS

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKENOpposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once fi lled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they off er a choice of cocktails.QH-4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBSW

KUCHENKAISERA melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866, the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s. The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities and international dishes. There’s a great choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B

OSTERIA N°1Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fi xture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from diff erent parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six diff erent lunch menus from €7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

VICOLO BERGMANNTasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas or the meat and fi sh dishes, and there’s home-made bread too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88, [email protected], www.vicolo-bergmann.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

BEER GARDENS LUFTGARTENThe large Biergarten around the former US offi cer’s casino in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun. Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers and other international food.QTempelhofer Freiheit Osteria N°1

SALON SCHMÜCKA crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and fantastic home-made juice – just make your own selection of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room concert.QI-4, Skalitzer Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. €. TNGBSW

WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLEWithin a historic market hall building, the rustic Markthalle restaurant is long and tall, with wainscoting, simple wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes

on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.QH-4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. B

Vicolo Bergmann


KreuzbergKreuzberg

BARS GALANDERA wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E

MILCHBARIt is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when football games are screened. The murals and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuff elstraße 41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. NBW

WÜRGEENGELPronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s fi lm El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off , there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B

CLUBS SO36Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly door staff .QH-4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de. Check their website for opening times. UENG

WILD AT HEARTRock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

MUSEUMS DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUMOne of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main building. The huge complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5.

HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIEA homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest to necessity and desire being the mother of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division of the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements.QF-4, Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €12,50/9,50.

JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLINThe famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF-4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAUDusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David Bowie.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORSBeside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Offi ce. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that

were headquartered in this area, and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS TEMPELHOFER FREIHEITWhere else can you run for fi ve minutes with your eyes closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders; the fi elds around them are used by rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-fl yers, gardeners and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.

VIKTORIAPARKBefore heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.

MARKETS MARHEINEKEHALLEThe old Markthalle XI from 1892 is now an upmarket and slightly sterile venue for the organic market with about 50 stalls selling everything from bread to cheese and fruit, much of it from the region.QF-5, Marheinekeplatz, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, www.meine-markthalle.de. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKTHALLE IXEverything you need for a picnic in Görlitzer Park. A historical market hall from 1891 has been revived with a weekly market (Fri, Sat), selling organic fruit and vegetables, cheese, bread, meat and smoked fi sh. There are snack stands with picnic tables, a children’s corner and a restaurant that serves a delicious organic lunch menu every day. The busy Streetfood Thursday has hipsters showing up in droves, and there’s breakfast on Sunday and occasional crafts and deli market days too.QH-4, Eisenbahnstraße 42, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577 09 46 61, www.markthalle9.de. Open Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission free.

SOUVENIRS & GIFTS HERRLICHSet the ladies loose in the mall; men will fi nd what they really need at Herrlich, a quirky men’s gift shop stocking body care products, clothing accessories, barbecue gear and essential gadgets.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 2, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 784 53 95, www.herrlich-online.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Nightlife Sightseeing

Shopping

BERLIN IN BOOKS

The young, snap-happy American student and artist Will McBride (1931) arrived in West Berlin in 1955, and set about capturing the post-war awakening of the city in black and white photos. Until the construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961, the sky seemed the

limit for the city, and McBride crossed from West to East observing the progress of the Wiederaufbau (rebuilding), as well as the building of the Wall. Now, 120 of his photos taken between 1956 and 1963 have been collected in Berlin im Aufbruch (‘Berlin’s Renaissance’). What makes this book so special is that rather than documenting the city from a safe distance, McBride is ‘present’ in the photos, as a participant in the depicted events, getting close to workers constructing a road, women chipping mortar off bricks from bombed buildings, playing children, rock ‘n roll dancers and fellow students riding a horse cart. In one photo McBride is literally present when he catches himself in the refl ection of a mirror in a café, while focussing his Leica on an animated group of women. It’s remarkable how timeless the themes and people are; the party in the back yard, the people at the beach and the students on the boat trip – they are us, this is now, 50 years ago.

‘Berlin im Aufbruch; Fotografi en 1956-1963’ (Lehmstedt Verlag 2013, ISBN 9783942473675) by Will McBride is for sale at Dussmann for €29.90, and can be ordered at any other bookshop.

An exhibition dedicated to Will McBride’s Berlin years opens in C/O Gallery on 30 October; see p. 39.


City toursCity tours

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also off ered in several other complexes that are usually not accessible to the public. With prior notifi cation, tours can be arranged for groups of minimum 20 people at other times.The following tours are held in English; they also take place in German and Spanish at other times, and various tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.

Tour 1: Dark Worlds – A bunker from the Nazi era. Mar-Nov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris. Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War – a political his-tory of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.Tour M – Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.

For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Tickets €10/8, Tour M €13/10 (no reservation required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstraße 105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.

BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker toursDifferent tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105

There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-fl ung, so plan your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public transportation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS BERLIN CITY TOUROpen-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.

CITY CIRCLE BUSESSeveral tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURSAfter the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, €12) you’ll know all about Berlin’s subcultures, the graffi ti and

stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlin’s dark, fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and an ‘anti-pubcrawl’.QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets €10-20.

ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKSThe walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora off er a wide choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter Benjamin themed tours, walks around the Pankow district, to the Wall’s course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district. Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49 176 68 60 16 63, [email protected], www.anita-sikora.com. Tours €9.

BERLIN LOCALSTailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, [email protected], www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per hour, €250 per day.

BREWER’S BERLINThe 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express (13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). The meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice cream shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings are required.QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets €15/12.

CITY SEGWAY TOURSHop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after a short driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the four-hour general tours (10:00 and 15:00, €67), or the shorter afternoon tour (15:00, €43). Drivers license required.QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, [email protected], www.citysegwaytours.com.

FAT TIRE BIKE TOURSGrab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin through town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour (11:00, from May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, Sat at 10:30), the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at 10:30) and the Raw tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun at 10:30); these tours cost €24/22 and no booking is required. Call or email ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a (Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, www.fattirebiketoursberlin.com.

INBERLIN TOURSSpecialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fi xed times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, [email protected], www.inberlin.de. Tickets €10-16.

INSIDER TOURSInsider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT Coff ee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam, Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.

ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOURIn the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’ with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD-4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, [email protected], www.cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets €12.

NEW BERLIN TOURSFree 3,5-hour city centre tours, popular with young visitors who are just as interested in each other as in the sights along the route (daily 11:00 and 13:00 from the Brandenburger Tor Starbucks). They additionally off er various themed tours and pub crawls.QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 51 05 00 30, www.newberlintours.com. Tickets free/€12.

ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKSThe daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30 and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10.

SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURSThe Berlin blog dedicated to ‘slow travel’ off ers quirky cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlin’s most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzberg’s wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelm’s Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/tours. Tickets €15.

More reviews online:



DirectoryPotsdam

ACCOUNTANTSERNST & YOUNG QFriedrichstraße 140, Mitte, MS+U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 25 47 10, www.ey.com.

KPMG QKlingelhöferstraße 18, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 206 80, www.kpmg.de.

NÖRR STIEFENHOFER LUTZ QCharlottenstraße 57, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 20 94 20 00, www.noerr.de.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS QLeise-Meitner-Straße 1, Charlottenburg, MU Mierendorff platz, tel. +49 30 263 60, www.pwc.com.

BUSINESS CONNECTIONSAMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QCharlottenstraße 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de.

DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER (CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Straße 29, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80, www.dihk.de.

DENTISTSDR. SUSANNE MÜNCHBERG QFasanen Straße 72, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 63 85.

DR. WOLF-ULRICH KLOTZ QBayreuther Straße 8, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 213 10 10.

DOCTORSDR. ALEXANDRA HEISER QKurfürstendamm 139, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00 91 01.

DR. KARIN WROBEL QSchönhauser Allee 126 A, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 448 57 67.

DR. MICHAEL OPPEL QDerffl ingerstraße 14, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 44 72 81 28, www.integrative-medizin.com.

EMBASSIESAUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-embassy.de.

FRANCE QF-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www.botschaft-frankreich.de.

IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.embassyofi reland.de.

NEW ZEALAND QF-3, Friedrichstraße 60, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 206 210, www.nzembassy.com.

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de.

HOSPITALSBENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.

CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLSBERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstraße 95, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.

GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.gls-german-courses.de.

MOVING TO BERLINThe following companies can help with every aspect of relocation, including moving, permits, accommodation, language courses and getting to know the local community.

ANKE FREUDE RELOCATION SERVICES QMesselstraße 23, MU Podbielskiallee, tel. +49 30 39 79 38 16, [email protected], www.fi rst-relocating.de.

ARRIVA RELOCATION QLeibnizstraße 60, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 32 77 43 11, [email protected], www.arriva-relocation.de.

FIRST RELOCATING QKissinger Str. 67, MS Hohenzollerndamm, tel. +49 30 826 14 51, info@fi rst-relocating.de, www.fi rst-relocating.de/.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Emergencies, ambulance, fi re tel. +49 30 112; Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; Police tel. +49 30 110; Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

Part of Berlin’s charm is its proud grittiness, but don’t chide yourself for being bourgeois if it gets to you - it got on the nerves of Frederick II the Great too. The ruler of Berlin and all Prussia from 1740 to 1786 built his favorite abode Sanssouci, outside Berlin in the town of Potsdam. ‘Without a worry’ was the French name of his palace, though thanks to considerable care taken by its architect Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff , craftsmen, and artisans, it is hailed as the Versailles of Germany. Sanssouci was intended as a summer residence, and though Friedrich stretched out the seasons he spent here, tourists don’t have the same privilege: many buildings close between mid-October and April. The best attractions are open through winter - Park Sanssouci’s Schloss Sanssouci and Neues Palais; and the Neuer Garten’s Marmorpalais and Schloss Cecilienhof. Besides the palaces and parks, the compact town’s centre, half faded and half restored, makes for a pleasant stroll. The Kolonie Alexandrowka is in a park along Puschkinallee, south of the rise to the Belevedere. Quaintly enough, the log cabins here were built in 1826 for a 12-member Russian choir who had helped the Prussians fi ght Napoleon. Most of the boys got homesick and eventually left. The redbrick Holländisches Viertel (Dutch quarter) is another failed settlement, but a great place to get a meal and browse in some shops. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the small district in the 1730s to attract Dutch craftsmen.

Potsdam basicsPotsdam is a short ride on the S-Bahn from central Berlin. More information: Postdam Tourist Information, Am Alten Markt 5, tel. +49 331 275 58 20, www.potsdam.de.

POTSDAM SIGHTS FILMMUSEUM POTSDAMFeaturing the history of the nearby Babelsberg fi lm studios and with changing exhibitions on the world of fi lm, possibly the best thing about this museum are the evening screenings of modern and classic international fi lms. Silent fi lms are accompanied live by an antique cinema organ. The Film Café serves drinks and food.QMarstall am Lustgarten/ Breite Straße 1a, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 27 18 12, www.fi lmmuseum-potsdam.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4,50/3,50.

FILMPARK BABELSBERGOver 3,000 fi lms have been shot at the famous Babelsberg UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). The themepark surrounding the studios is great for children and adults. Though the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners, there’s enough action to keep you amused, including stunt, animal and pirate shows, studio tours and ‘behind the scenes’ insights into special eff ects through the years. There’s an English-language audioguide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take bus N°601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt Babelsberg station and walk.QGroßbeerenstraße, Potsdam, MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.fi lmpark.de. Open 10:00-18:00. Sept closed Mon. Nov-Mar closed. Admission €21/17, children €14.

SCHLOSS CECILIENHOFTwentieth-century history was made here in August 1945 when Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar Germany. This half-timber mansion between two lakes in the Neuer Garten was fi nished in 1917. In the same park is the Marmorpalais. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station take tram N°92 or 96 to Reiterweg/Alleestraße, then bus N°603 to Schloß Cecilienhof.QIm Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam, tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Nov-Mar open until 17:00. Admission €6/5.

SCHLOSS SANSSOUCIThe 18th century rococo-style Schloss Sanssouci (‘without worries’) has a gorgeous approach up a fl ight of vineyard terraces. Frederick the Great loved his little ‘Prussian Arcadia’ and was buried on here at his own request. The original palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens, Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290 hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues Palais, and Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss Charlottenhof, whose interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkel’s work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pfi ngstberg is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. On busy days arrive early to secure tour tickets, or join the tourism offi ce’s Sanssouci tour which includes the palace even when day tickets are sold out. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station take bus N°612, 614 or 695.QMaulbeerallee, Potsdam, tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open Apr-Oct 10:00-18:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; park open 06:00-dusk. Admission €12/8, park free or voluntary donation.

SPIELBANK POTSDAMTogether with many other imposing buildings in the area, the building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Joker’s Garden casino since 2002 was designed by Frederick the Great’s master builder Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff in the 1750s. Restored to its former glory, the elegant building now is the venue for card games, roulette and playing machines. Minimum age 18. Dress code: smart, jacket required (rental available).QSchloßstraße 14, Potsdam, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 290 93 00, www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open 17:30 - 03:00. Access to slot machines from 11:00. Admission €5.

60 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com

Street RegisterAckerstraße F/G-2Adalbertstraße H-4Admiralstraße G/H-5Albrechtstraße F-3Alexanderplatz G-3Alexanderstraße G-3Alexanderufer F-2/3Alexandrinenstraße F-4Alt-Moabit C-3/E-3Alte Jakobstraße F-4Alte Schönhauser Straße G-2Altonaer Straße D-3Am Friedrichshain H-2Am Karlsbad F-4Am Kupfergraben F-3Am Ostbahnhof H-4Anhalter Straße F-4Arndtstraße F-5Augsburger Straße C/D-4Auguststraße F/G-2Axel-Springer-Straße F-4Barnimstraße H-2/3Baruther Straße F-5Bayerischer Platz D-5Bebelplatz F-3Behrenstraße F-3Belforter Straße G/H-2Bergmannstraße F/G-5Bernauer Straße F/G-1/2Bethaniendamm H-4Beusselstraße C-2Bismarckstraße B/C-3/4Bleibtreustraße C-4Blücherstraße F/G-5Bodestraße F-3Bötzowstraße H/I-2Brandenburger Tor F-3Breitscheidplatz C-4Brückenstraße H-3/4Brunnenstraße F/G-1/2Bülowstraße E-4/5Bundesallee C-4/6Charlottenstraße F-3/4Chausseestraße F-2Choriner Straße G-2Christinenstraße G-2Danziger Straße G-1/I-2

Dorotheenstraße F-3Dresdener Straße G-4Dunckerstraße H-1Ebertstraße F-3Engeldamm H-4Erkelenzdamm F-4Ernst-Reuter-Platz C-3Fasanenstraße C-4/5Fehrbelliner Straße G-2Fischerinsel G-3Französische Straße F-3Friedensstraße H-2/3Friedrichstraße F-3/4Gartenstraße F-1/2Gendarmenmarkt F-3Georgenkirchstraße H-2/3Georgenstraße F-3Gertraudenstraße G-3Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F-3Gipsstraße G-2Gitschiner Straße F-4Glinkastraße F-3Gneisenaustraße F/G-5Görlitzer Straße H/I-4/5Görlitzer Ufer I-5Gormannstraße G-2Greifswalder Straße H/I-1/2Grolmannstraße C-4Großbeerenstraße F-5Große Hamburger Straße G-2/3Gruner Straße G-3Hallesches Ufer F-4Hardenbergplatz C-4Heidestraße E-2Heinrich-Heine-Straße F-4Heinrichplatz H-4Hohenstaufenstraße D-5Immanuelkirchstraße H-2Invalidenstraße E-3/G-2Johannisstraße F-3John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E-3Kaiserdamm A/B-4Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C-2Kantstraße B/C-4Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G-3Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I-3Kastanienallee G-2

Kl. Hamburger Straße F-2Kleiststraße D/E-4Knaackstraße H-2Knesebeckstraße C-4Kochstraße F-4Kollwitzplatz H-2Kollwitzstraße G/H-2Konstanzer Straße B-4/5Köpenicker Straße H/I-4Kottbusser Damm H-5Kottbusser Straße H-5Krausnickstraße G-3Kreuzbergstraße F-5Kurfürstendamm A-5/C-4Kurfürstenstraße D/E-4Landsberger Allee H/I-2Lausitzer Straße H-4/5Legiendamm H-4Leipziger Platz F-4Leipziger Straße F/G-4Leuschnerdamm H-4Lindenstraße F/G-4Linienstraße F/G-2Lobeckstraße F-4Luisenstraße F-2/3Lützowufer D/E-4Manteuff elstraße H-4/5Marburger Straße D-4Mariannenplatz H-4Marienstraße F-3Markgrafenstraße F-3/4Martin-Luther-Straße D-4/6Matthäikirchstraße E-4Mauerstraße F-3/4Maybachufer H-5Mehringdamm F-5Mehringplatz F-4Meinekestraße C-4Melchiorstraße H-4Metzer Straße G/H-2Mittelstraße F-3Möckernstraße F-4/5Mohrenstraße F-3Molkenmarkt G-3Mollstraße H-2/3Mommsenstraße B/C-4Monbijoustraße F-3

Motzstraße C/D-4/5Mühlendamm G-3Mühlenstraße H/I-4Mulackstraße G-2Museumsinsel F-3Muskauer Straße H-4Niederkirchnerstraße F-4Niederwallstraße F-3Nollendorfstraße D/E-5Oberbaumstraße I-4Olivaer Platz B-4Oranienburger Straße F/G-2/3Oranienplatz F-4Oranienstraße F/G-4Otto-Braun-Straße G/H-3Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C-3Pappelallee G/H-1Pariser Platz F-3Paul-Lincke-Ufer H-5Perleberger Straße D/E-2Platz der Vereinten Nationen H-3Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F-2Potsdamer Platz E-4Potsdamer Straße E-4/5Prenzlauer Allee H-1/2Prinzenstraße F-4Pücklerstraße H-4Puschkinallee I-5Quedlinburger Straße B-3Rathausstraße G-3Reichenberger Straße G-4/I-5Reichpietschufer E-4Reichstagufer F-3Reinhardtstraße F-3Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G-2Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G-2/3Rosenthaler Straße G-2/3Rykestraße H-2Saarbrücker Straße G-2Savignyplatz C-4Schiff bauerdamm F-3Schloßplatz F-3Schloßstraße B-3Schlüterstraße C-4Schöneberger Straße F-4Schöneberger Ufer E-4Schönhauser Allee G-1/2

Schönleinstraße H-5Schumannstraße F-3Seydelstraße F-4Simon-Dach-Straße I-4Skalitzer Straße G-4/I-4Sophienstraße G-2/3Spandauer Damm A/B-3Spandauer Straße G-3Sredzkistraße H-2Stralauer Allee I-4Stralauer Platz H-4Stralauer Straße G-3Straßburger Straße G-2Straße der Pariser Kommune I-3/4Straße des-17. Juni C/E-3Stresemannstraße F-4Südstern G-5Tauentzienstraße D-4Tieckstraße F-2Tiergartenstraße D/E-4Torstraße F/G-2Tucholsky-Straße F-3Turmstraße C/D-2Uhlandstraße C-4/5Unter den Linden F-3Urbanstraße G/H-5Veteranenstraße G-2Voßstraße F-4Wadzeckstraße G/H-3Waldemarstraße H-4Wallstraße F/G-4Warschauer Platz I-4Warschauer Straße I-3/4Wassertorplatz F-4Weinbergsweg G-2Weinstraße H-2/3Werderstraße F-3Wiener Straße H/I-4/5Wilhelmstraße F-3/4Winterfeldtplatz D-5Winterfeldtstraße D/E-5Wörther Straße G/H-2Yorckstraße E/F-5Zimmerstraße F-4Zinnowitzer Straße F-2Zionskirchstraße G-2Zossener Straße F-5

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66 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com

IndexAapka 22Adlon Kempinski 30Admiralspalast 11Adria 15Aigner 21Alexa Centre 30Alliiertenmuseum 39Alpenstueck 21Alte Nationalgalerie 28Alternative Berlin Tours 56Altes Museum 28Altes Zollhaus 49Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 57Anna Blume 44April 33A-Trane 37Aufsturz 23August Fengler 44Austria 50Babylon Mitte 15Barcomi's Deli 23Bavarium 33Bergmann Curry 50Berlin, Berlin 41Berlin City Tour 56Berliner Dom 26Berliner Residenz Konzerte 11Berlinische Galerie 54Berlin Locals 57Berlin Plaza 41Best Western President 41Bikini Berlin 40Black Box Cold War 27Bleibtreu 41Blue Man Group 11Borchardt 21Brandenburger Tor 25Brewer's Berlin 57Café am Engelbecken 53Café am Neuen See 36Café im Literaturhaus 36Cafe Kalwil 37Central Kino 15Chan 49Cicciolina 51CineStar IMAX & Original 15City Circle Buses 56City Segway Tours 57C/O Berlin 39Cupcake Berlin 47Curry 36 50Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz 28Das Stue 40Deutsche Oper Berlin 10, 14Deutscher Dom 26Deutsches Currywurst Museum 28Deutsches Historisches Museum 12, 28Deutsches Technikmuseum 54Diekmann 34Die Schule 43Digital Eatery 23

Dressler 35Duke 35Einhorn 35El Dorado 36Ellington Hotel 41English Theatre Berlin 13Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 23Eventim 12Facil 22Fat Tire Bike Tours 57Fernsehturm 30Filmmuseum Potsdam 58Filmpark Babelsberg 58First Floor 34Fischers Fritz 22Fleischlust 43Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45Francucci's 35Französischer Dom 26Friedrichstadt-Palast 11Führerbunker 27Galander 54Geburtstagsklub 44Gedächtniskirche 39Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 28Gemäldegalerie 29Gendarmenmarkt 25Glory Duck 47Gorgonzola Club 51Grand Hotel Esplanade 41Green Door 37Grenander Morning Glory 37Gugelhof 43Hackesche Höfe 15Halle Tanzbühne 14Hamburger Bahnhof 29Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 54Hebbel am Ufer 14Hefner 37Hekticket 12Herrlich 55Hilton 30Hinterm Horizont 12Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31Hoppetosse 51Hotel de Rome 31Hugos 34InBerlin Tours 57Insider Tours 57InterContinental 40Isherwood's Neighbourhood Tour 57Jolesch 50Jolly 21Joseph Roth Diele 21Jüdisches Museum Berlin 54Kaffee Burger 24Kamala 21Kaufbar 47Kaufhaus des Westens 40Kempinski Bristol 40Keule 46

Kilkenny Irish Pub 19, 24Kimchi Princess 49Knese 33Knutschfleck 24Koka 36 12Komische Oper 10Konnopke's Imbiß 43Konzerthaus Berlin 10Kookaburra Comedy Club 14Kuchenkaiser 53Kulturbrauerei 45Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 30La Forchetta 35Locanda 35Luftgarten 52Macondo 47Mall of Berlin 30Mandala 31Marheinekehalle 55Markthalle IX 55Marooush 36Marriott 31Martin-Gropius-Bau 54Mauerpark 45Mein Haus am See 24Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 27Microsoft Berlin 27Milchbar 54Monsieur Vuong 21Museum für Asiatische Kunst 39Museum für Film und Fernsehen 29Museum für Naturkunde 29Mutter Hoppe 21Neue Nationalgalerie 30Neues Museum 28Neue Synagoge 25New Berlin Tours 57Nikolaiviertel 25Nola’s am Weinberg 22Olympic Stadium 38Original Berlin Walks 57Osteria N°1 52Ottenthal 34Pagode 49Palace 40Panoramapunkt 30Papagena 12Paris-Moskau 22Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31Pergamon Museum 28Pizzeria i Due Forni 44Potsdamer Platz 26Precise Myer's 42Prenzlauer Berg Tourist Information Centre 44Quatsch Comedy Club 14Radialsystem V 14Reichstag 26Reingold 24Reinhard's 22Renger-Patzsch 33Restauration 1840 21

Restauration 1900 43Riehmers 50Ritz-Carlton 31Sachiko Sushi 36Sage Restaurant 51Salon Schmück 53San Diego Steakhouse 47Sankt Oberholz 23Santiago 44Sarod's 50Savoy Berlin 40Schall und Rauch 44Schaubühne 14Schloss Cecilienhof 58Schloss Charlottenburg 38Schloss Sanssouci 58Schneeweiß 47Schnitzelei 34Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33Schwarzwaldstuben 21Shakespeare & Sons 45Slow Travel Berlin Tours 57SO36 54Soda Club 45Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm 40Sophieneck 23Spielbank Berlin 24Spielbank Potsdam 58Sputnik 15Staatsoper im Schillertheater 11Suksan 34Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 44Swissôtel Berlin 40Sylter Hof 41tausche Taschen 45Tempelhofer Freiheit 55The Harp 19, 38Tiergarten 39Tipi am Kanzleramt 12Topographie des Terrors 54Traube 22Union Jack 38Vicolo Bergmann 52Viktoriapark 55Waldorf Astoria 41Week-End Club 24Weinstein 44Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53Westin Grand 31Wild at Heart 54Wintergarten Variété 12Wohnzimmer 44Würgeengel 54Zander 43Zillemarkt 33Zille-Stube 21Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus 45Zwiebelfisch 37Zwölf Apostel 36

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