beverage journal · already on their resume. canteen’s prime distinction is a pure vodka base (as...

VOLUME82NUMBER05 May 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1

Maryland l Washington, DC

F E AT U R E S

10 RETAIL IN THE CORONAVIRUS ERA After early sales spikes, merchants deal with shift-ing consumer behavior and regulations

14 RESTAURANTS REELING Slammed by shutdowns, the industry braces for a hard-to-predict future

18 THE ON-PREMISE PIVOT Fine dining turns to takeout to save (some) jobs during the coronavirus pandemic

22 AGAVE'S WIDER WORLD From raicilla to bacanora & beyond, understanding the spectrum of agave spirits

26 TEQUILA TODAY: LOOKING BUENO Coming off a roaring 2019, tequila is still tracking positive

34 CORONAVIRUS AND THE LOCAL MARKET Maryland's beer, wine and spirits trade is adapting, mobilizing and enduring in this crisis

D E PA R T M E N T S

02 PUB PAGE Unchartered Waters

04 NEW PRODUCTS & PROMOTIONS

08 MARKET SHOTS Promotions, Happenings & News From the Local Markets

32 BAR TALK

42 FISHPAWS MARKETPLACE: Kim Lawson and Experiential Retail

MAY 2020

ON THE COVER: Photograph courtesy of

Selim Aksan/iStock

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BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC.

President / Publisher Stephen [email protected]

Board of Directors Lee W. MurrayThomas W. Murray

Information Technology Director

Peter [email protected]

EDITORIAL

Senior Editor Kristen [email protected]

Managing Editor W. R. [email protected]

Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, Keven Danow, Edward Durgin David Lincoln Ross, Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello

ART & DESIGN

Creative Director Larry Lee [email protected]

Senior Designer Jeff [email protected]

TECHNOLOGY & WEB

eCommerce Director Ian [email protected]

eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube

Online Web Programming Vali Balescu

PRINT & PRODUCTION

Print Services Manager Lee Stringham [email protected] 410.519.7034

ADVERTISING & MARKETING

MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten [email protected] 410.796.5455

National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik [email protected] 212.571.3232

UNCHARTERED WATERS

We find ourselves living in an unprec-edented time. One month ago (today is April 13th as I type this) the beverage alcohol industry was chugging along enjoying the beginnings of an economic resurgence and a potential up year for both on-premise and off-premise estab-lishments alike. Then, suddenly, what was an occasional update on the nightly news became, "Out-of-State travel for state employees cancelled ... one, three, five cases of coronavirus confirmed in xyz county ... Easier access to health care goal of emergency legislation ... Universities to hold classes remotely ... Public schools announce 2 week closure ... Maryland's legislative session adjourns early ... and then, Executive order closes public places." It took less than two weeks to bring the economic power-house, heavy weight champion of all time, known as the United States econo-my, to an abrupt and virtual standstill.

People and businesses are hurting and those same people and businesses are helping. Problems (and solutions) are like the tide, they are guaranteed to hap-pen multiple times per day. Throughout this issue of your Beverage Journal our team has compiled information to help both the on-premise and the off-premise retailer navigate the current situation. The problems being faced by the on-premise side of the industry is in stark contrast to the problems being faced by the off-premise side and we have com-prehensive information for both. We've included information about resources that you can tap into for assistance ... all from both national and local points of view.

You'll find examples of the industry you can be very proud of ... the strong efforts by producers to help boost the supply of hand sanitizers ... associations are helping put pressure on governments

looking for temporary regulatory relief to permit carry out or delivery of drinks, with many local variations. Both the supplier and distributor tiers of the industry have initiated virtual (online) fundraising efforts. And, the stories of customer’s and fellow industry members doing whatever they can to assist their local establishments are heart-warming.

You'll find all this and more in this month's Beverage Journal. I invite you find some time and get a national per-spective with Courtney Schiessl's "Retail in the Coronavirus Era" on page 10 and "The On-Premise Pivot" by Kathleen Wil-cox on page 14. "Restaurants Reeling" on page 18 looks at how Restaurants are bracing for a hard to predict future and on page 34 Teddy Durgin takes an in-depth look at what's going on here locally in "Coronavirus and the Local Market."

It just so happens that this month marks 27 years since I was hired by Lee W. Murray to assist with advertising sales here at the Beverage Journal. Dur-ing those many years I have found the beverage alcohol industry to be full of hard-working and caring people. I have been awestruck by the work-ethic and positivity of those in this industry. Even in these uncertain times, I am fascinated by and impressed with the members of this industry on all levels. I am certain in future issues I will be touting the exem-plary efforts and victories both companies and individuals pursued to assist in the success of the beverage alcohol trade as a whole during this crises.

Stay healthy, stay sane! n

Over 80 Years of Continuous Publication

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NEW PRODUCTS

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NEW PRODUCTS

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1. ABSOLUT JUICE PEAR & ELDERFLOWERAnticipating a reprise of last summer’s success when Lizzo introduced Absolut Juice Apple and Strawberry, the brand is rolling out a Pear & Elderflower expression. The new sip-with-a-spritz blend is made with a balance of Absolut Vodka and 5 percent real fruit juice, o� ering a juicy combo of ripe pear and sunny elderflower. At 99 calories per serving, it aims to capture the RTD crowd as a go-to drink for virtual happy hours and, eventually, summer fun. 70 proof.

2. AVELEDA ‘12 KNIGHTS’ RED BLENDAveleda’s new red blend, 12 Knights, taps into the tale of 12 brave men who fought to secure territory and create what is now Portugal. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Alicante Bouschet, its origin is Lisboa (IG - Vinho Regional), but 12 Knights aims to represent the country as a whole. The ruby wine shows ripe red fruits and spicy aromas, with six months in barrel adding structure.

3. BLOOD OATH ‘PACT 6’ BOURBONNow in its sixth year, the Blood Oath ultra-premium bourbon series—a creation of Lux Row Distillers’ master blender John Rempe—combines three selected bourbons. For Pact No. 6, Rempe chose three high-rye bourbons: a 14-year-old, an 8-year-old, and a 7-year-old rested in Cognac casks. The combination brings caramel notes and hints of spice, along with extra flavor from the barrels. As with previous expressions, Pact No. 6 is a limited edition..

SRP: $25 SRP: $12.99 SRP: $99.99 absolut.com aveleda.com luxrowdistillers.com

4. VIETTI 2018 TIMORASSO In northern Piedmont, Timorasso has long been thought to be a white variety with exceptional aging and evolutionary potential. After several years of experimentation and collaboration with local winemakers in the Derthona area of Colli Tortonesi, Luca and Elena Currado have released their first vintage of Derthona Timorasso with the 2018 vintage. Luca’s father, Alfredo Currado, was the first to bottle a single-variety white wine when he released Vietti Roero Arneis in 1967.

5. BOUSQUET ‘VIRGEN’ ORGANIC WINES Just a year after the successful U.S. debut of Virgen Organic Red Blend 2018—Domaine Bousquet’s first-ever USDA-certified, no-sulfites-added, vegan, organic wine—Argentina’s largest exporter of organically grown wines is adding a 2019 Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon to the line. The wines are unoaked, highlighting the 100% varietal fruit; bottled under a green cap, with the USDA organic certification prominently displayed.

6. CANTEEN VODKA SODAFresh out of Austin, Texas, comes a new canned “vodka soda” founded by industry veterans with vodka, whiskey and gin already on their resume. Canteen’s prime distinction is a pure vodka base (as opposed to brewed malt or fermented sugar); plus the usual 0 carbs, 0 sugar, 0 sodium, gluten free; 5 percent ABV. The kicker: 99 calories. Canteen’s line-up of all-natural flavors includes Watermelon, Lime, Black Cherry, Grapefruit, and Cucumber Mint.

SRP: $32 SRP: $13 SRP: $12.99/six-pack dallaterra.com domainebousquet.com drinkcanteen.com

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NEW PRODUCTSNEW PRODUCTS

7. CHATEAU TANUNDA ‘GRAND BAROSSA’ RANGEBarossa Valley-based Château Tanunda is marking its 130th year with a total revamp. The leaner portfolio, focused on higher-end wines, features new packaging and two debuts; and Sonoma-based Vintage Point will bring the wines to market. Two lines are available: the Grand Barossa range of five estate wines, line-priced at $16, including the brand new 2019 Eden Valley Chardonnay and 2017 Red Blend; plus two Old Vines varietals, a Cabernet and Shiraz. For the Grand Barossa line , accounts can choose cork or screwcap.

8. BOTROMAGNO ‘BOTRÓ’ Botró is a 50/50 bend of Greco and Fiano from the Gravina area of Puglia. With no malolactic fermentation and rested in stainless steel rather than oak, the deep straw-yellow wine is especially fresh, fruity, bright, and aromatic. Botromagno is a privately owned winery partnered with more than 100 local grape growers. Perched on a steep crag, Gravina has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era—as well as featured in the next James Bond movie.

9. CHICKEN COCK RYE WHISKEYGrain & Barrel Spirits has released Chicken Cock Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey in nine states; it is the revived brand’s first rye in more than 70 years. Non-chill filtered and featuring 95% rye in the mash bill, the whiskey reveals complex spice on the nose and vanilla and butterscotch on the creamy palate. Like the Chicken Cock Bourbon released in 2019, the rye comes in a Prohibition-era, apothecary-style bottle. 90 proof.

SRP: Grand Barossa $16 | Old Vines $75/$125 SRP: $16.99 SRP: $69.99 chateautanunda.com winebow.com chickencockwhiskey.com

10. DISARONNO SOUR READY-TO-DRINK COCKTAIL IN CANSThe Disaronno Sour RTD is a bar-quality cocktail expertly mixed to deliver the world-famous Disaronno Sour in a format in a convenient package that can go practically anywhere. The pool, the beach, outdoor events, concerts, and festivals can now be experienced with this classic cocktail. The ready-to-drink Disaronno Sour is 5.9% ABV and is packaged in slim 200ml cans.

11. BROKEN SHED VODKA 1.75LBroken Shed, a super-premium vodka from New Zealand, has launched a 1.75L bottle. Using a blend of two of New Zealand’s finest waters, Broken Shed is distilled three times from New Zealand grass-fed whey—the natural protein and milk sugar rich liquid from dairy production—yielding a clean, crisp taste and luxurious mouthfeel. It is naturally gluten-free, free from additives and added sugars, and has no GMO. The new 1.75L bottle will also be available as a Party Pack of three. 80 proof.

12. SEA PEARL NEW ZEALANDSAUVIGNON BLANC IN CANSWinesellers Ltd. is introducing Sea Pearl Sauvignon Blanc in 250ml cans. Sea Pearl is one of the fastest growing brands in the Winesellers portfolio, sourced from Marlborough, New Zealand within the Awatere Valley. Canned wine isn’t the producer’s first foray into alternative and sustainable formats; Sea Pearl is also available in 19.5L stainless steel kegs for on-premise wine on tap. Available nationally.

SRP: $9.99/four-pack SRP: $45.99/1.75L SRP: $10.99/two-pack disaronno.com brokenshed.com winesellersltd.com


M A R K E T S H O T S

A MESSAGE FROM THE BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE TEAMOur hearts go out to all those affected by the COVID-19 outbreak, and we are holding the safety and well-being of our associates, supplier and customer partners at the center of our decisions. Breakthru Beverage is moving with pace and agility, responding in real-time to decisions made by health and governmental authorities. We are actively collaborating with suppliers and our customer teams; sharing ideas and best practices to better serve our customers and our communities. We extend our wishes for good health to you, your team members and your families. Together, we will get through this and emerge stronger and more resilient. Stay safe!

People globally are feeling the effects of the Coronavirus outbreak. The bar and restaurant community has been particularly hard hit by the current situation, with many facing extreme financial and personal uncertainty in the coming weeks and months. This is a group that has always been at the heart of Diageo’s business. To play its part in supporting them in their time of need, the company’s North America business has pledged more than $2 million of support to the bar and restaurant community.

Specifically, Diageo North America has pledged $1 million to the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG) Bartender Emergency Assistance Fund, which is being used to support those who will go without work during this challenging time. The USBG is a non-profit professional society of bartenders and other hospitality professionals uniting the hospitality community to advance professional bartending. Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars of this $1 million will come directly from GUINNESS US.

Other brands in the Diageo North America portfolio are also joining the fight with commitments that include:

GUINNESS US also announced before Saint Patrick’s Day a commitment of $500,000 to support organizations where “we live, work and celebrate.” The brand has now increased that initial commitment to $1 million. In addition to the $250,000 mentioned above which will go to the USBG Bartender Emergency Assistance Fund, the brand has committed $750,000 to the Guinness Gives Back Fund.

CROWN ROYAL has committed to donate $1 to the USBG Bartender Emergency Assistance Fund – up to $200,000 – for anyone who virtually raises a glass (no matter what they are drinking) and tags #generosityhour.

DON JULIO is supporting the Restaurant Workers’ Community Foundation with an initial $50,000 pledge, and a “42-Day Live Instagram benefit concert” on April 2nd which presented a line up of DJ’s, and a commitment to donate an additional $1 for every viewer who tuned in.

BULLEIT kicked off #TipsFromHome, a make-it-yourself portfolio-wide mixology series, in which $1 will be donated to the USBG Bartender Emergency Assistance Fund every time someone shares a cocktail using the #TipsFromHome hashtag, and tags the brand.

JOHNNIE WALKER, along with CROWN ROYAL and BULLEIT donated $100,000 to Southern Smoke Emergency Relief Fund, a Texas-based organization supporting local food and beverage industry professionals in crisis.

DIAGEO NORTH AMERICA PLEDGES MORE THAN $2 MILLION TO THE BAR AND RESTAURANT COMMUNITY

INDUSTRY REPORT

he industry’s one bright spot during the devastating coronavirus pandemic has been

the recent weeks’ surges in wine, beer, and spirits off-premise sales across the country. Even as the on-premise sector shuttered and Americans were confined to their homes, consumers were very much drinking. For many alcohol retailers (deemed essential businesses in most states), business boomed as consumers stocked up on alcohol, alongside toilet paper and household disinfectants.

According to Nielsen, U.S. sales of alcoholic beverages increased 55 percent in the week ending March 21—the same week that California became the first of many to enact a statewide order for resi-dents to stay at home. The alcohol de-livery service Drizly, which is releasing sales data twice weekly, saw sales growth

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LEFT: Vine Wine in Brooklyn was among many retailers setting up new store protocol. // Schneider’s of Capitol Hill lowered the minimum for free delivery and began offering curbside pick-up.

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CORONAVIRUS ERAAFTER SEEING EARLY SALES SPIKES, MERCHANTS DEAL WITH SHIFTING CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND REGULATIONS

BY COURTNEY SCHIESSL

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slow slightly before spiking once again to 488 percent over baseline during the week of March 30. Large grocery chains, in mar-kets where they are permitted to sell al-cohol, are posting very high double-digit growth in beverage alcohol.

For independent wine retailers, the impact on sales has been variable. Some, like Le Dû’s Wines in New York City and Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in Washing-ton, D.C., have seen sales normalize after an initial spike in purchasing. For others, like The Wine House in Los Angeles, they continue to soar. “We have not seen a dip in consumer purchasing, and we are very fortunate for that,” says part-owner and wine buyer Jim Knight.

But with the rapidly changing reali-ties of daily life in the U.S., the precarious economic climate, and new health regula-tions and concerns, it’s far from business as usual.

UNDERSTANDING NEW PURCHASING BEHAVIORThe retail sector is the undeniable ben-eficiary of the on-premise fallout. “It’s a great time to shop at a wine shop,” says Talitha Whidbee, the owner of Vine Wine in Brooklyn, New York. “We’re picking up all the allocations from restaurants.” Faced with the loss of purchases from on-prem-ise accounts, many importers and dis-tributors are slashing prices dramatically to offload inventory, allowing retailers to offer excellent value on wines as well.

While some retailers initially saw con-sumers splurge on more expensive bottles,

for the most part, the average per-bottle price point is skewing lower than usual. “The average wine bottle price since the uptick has been $17.99,” says Gary Fisch, the founder and CEO of Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, “which is roughly 32 per-cent lower than the average bottle price in the past year, which was $25.” The Wine House’s average bottle price has been about $20, according to Knight, which is also slightly lower than normal.

That lower per-bottle average is typi-cally offset by greater quantity, however. Drizly reports that quantity per order is up as well—about 40 to 50 percent more than usual.

However, the drop in average price point has been difficult for some retail-ers. “Many [independent, fine wine] stores are reporting lower sales,” says Tom Wark, the executive director of the National As-sociation of Wine Retailers (NAWR), “in large part because the vast majority of re-tailers are also seeing their average price per bottle sold significantly reduced since March 1.” He adds that between 30 and 40 percent of fine wine retailers have laid-off or furloughed employees.

MANAGING NEW PROTOCOLAs Americans comply with stay-at-home orders, retail operations that once re-lied on foot traffic have had to adjust to

decreased or nonexistent walk-in busi-ness. To adapt, Wark notes that many retailers are increasing delivery efforts, adding curbside pickup options, and widening digital outreach. Though 40 percent of The Wine House’s initial sales bump was walk-ins, once the state put a stay-at-home order in place on March 19, Knight was “slammed” with curbside pickup and delivery orders. The situa-tion led him to cease walk-in business entirely on March 23.

But for shops that do not offer deliv-ery, walk-in traffic remains crucial even under stay-at-home orders. Restrictions on delivery in Michigan, a control state, make it complicated and expensive to de-liver. Red Wagon Wine Shoppe, being in Rochester Hills, Michigan, does not offer delivery, though it does have an e-com-merce site offering shipping. “Our model, which is so heavily dependent on in-store traffic, would just about come to a halt,” says wine director Michael Descamps.

To mitigate the risk, Descamps has reduced hours and is working with a very small team (many staff members have opt-ed not to work). Other protocols enacted by wine shops that continue to offer walk-in business include canceling in-store tastings, staggering staffing, limiting the number of shoppers allowed at once, sani-tizing surfaces regularly, and requiring employees to wash hands and wear gloves.

INVESTING IN THE DELIVERY MODEL AND E-COMMERCEEven if shelter-in-place orders allow con-

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ABOVE, from left: Jim Knight of The Wine House in Los Angeles // Gary’s Wine & Marketplace in Wayne, New Jersey // Le Dû’s Wines in New York City

sumers to shop in-store, many are opting for web or phone sales to minimize con-tact with others. According to Nielsen, online sales of alcoholic beverages rose by 243 percent during the week end-ing March 21. It’s been a boon for alcohol delivery services like Drizly and Minibar and large online marketplaces. During the week ending March 29, wine app Vi-vino experienced a 209 percent increase in year-over-year gross merchandise val-ue for their online marketplace—much of that from new customers.

“People who previously used Vivino for scanning, rating, and reviewing wines are now buying online because they are at home, online, and looking for delivery to their door,” says founder Heini Zacharias-sen. “Our numbers indicate that [e-com-merce and delivery are] essential.”

Independent retailers are seeing re-sults from this shift, too. “Almost all our members report moderate to significant increase in traffic to their websites,” says NAWR’s Wark. For businesses that have delivery or shipping systems in place, this shift away from walk-in traffic is smoother.

Particularly for small shops, delivery may indeed be the only way to remain op-erational and profitable. “I strongly rec-ommend that small mom-and-pop stores invest heavily in their delivery and pickup capabilities,” says Fisch. He suggests retailers look into all e-commerce options, such as hiring a third-

party delivery service or back-end tech-nology provider. Whidbee also recom-mends having all inventory online and linked to the store’s POS system to reflect real-time availability.

Managing pickup and delivery opera-tions and coronavirus health protocols is also essential. To keep business manage-able with just a few staff members, Vine Wine conducts local delivery on Mondays, ships packages on Tuesdays and Wednes-days, and offers pickup for four hours each day from Tuesday to Saturday.

Zero-contact is increasingly impor-tant. Some retailers place a card table outside the front door of the shop so that consumers cannot get too close, or staff members wear gloves to place orders in car trunks. For delivery, the team at The Wine House asks the customer to show his or her ID through the window and leaves the order on their doorstep.

It’s critical for retailers to communi-cate directly with customers through so-cial media and emails about their delivery services—particularly for shops without robust e-commerce platforms.

“There’s a lot of uncertainty as to whether shops are even open, so just sending out an email or posting that you’re open is very advantageous,” says JT Robertson, general manager of Le Dû’s

Wines. “More often than not, peo-ple will choose to support their

small businesses.” He has also been using sponsored Ins-tagram and Facebook posts highlighting the shop’s deliv-ery radius to target the local

community, noting that even if couriers are no longer allowed

to operate, he can personally deliver bottles a few blocks away.

PLANNING FOR AN UNPREDICTABLE FUTURESeveral wine and spirits distributors pre-dict the boom will continue to slow for

independent retailers, particularly in states where grocery stores are permit-ted to sell alcohol and consumers in-creasingly opt for one-stop shopping. “I anticipate that with the stay home order, we will continue to see some slowdown,” agrees Elyse Genderson, the vice presi-dent at Schneider’s in D.C.

In the face of this uncertainty, many are practicing caution. “Every indication is that the initial stocking up will end at some point,” says Wark, “and the impact of the U.S. entering a ‘depression economy’ for some time will hit sales very hard.”

Some are anticipating unexpected dis-ruptions in other parts of the industry, such as the winery supply chain. “I still feel like we have to overbuy,” says Whid-bee. “I’m worried that there’s going to be a travel ban or they’ll close down the ports for two weeks.”

Flexibility will be key to both short- and long-term success. “I think we’re looking at a drastically different wine landscape in the future,” says Robertson. ■

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INDUSTRY REPORT

#STAYHOMEAlcohol delivery services

like Drizly have seen huge increases in

orders.

At Vine Wine in Brooklyn, proprietor Talitha Whidbee estimates that 90 percent of sales are for pickup, despite the fact that the store offers free local delivery and in-state shipping. “People still want to go out and take a stroll since they’re inside all day,” she says.

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INDUSTRY REPORT

Canlis in Seattle was an early adopter, making the switch on March 12 from a $140 prix-fixe menu to $12 burg-ers-to-go in order to retain their entire 115-person staff. The menu has since evolved to more elaborate fare, and word has quickly spread that the restaurant is now offering elevated family meals for curbside pickup and “no-contact” delivery along with sommelier-paired bottles of wine.

“We already have a waitlist 1,000-1,700 people long for every night next week,” shared co-owner Brian Canlis. “The enchilada night is the most popular. Clearly people need comfort, but they also need for it to be special. We’ve been getting pictures from guests who dress up, open our box and then open up our livestream, where we have our in-house piano players performing. They’re recreating Canlis at home and bringing just a moment of joy during this terrible time of uncertainty and stress.”

UNDERSTANDING THE COST OF DELIVERY APPSThird-party delivery services, such as ChowNow, Seam-less, Instacart, GrubHub, Caviar, DoorDash, and UberEats, charge as much as 35 percent per order. (Under pressure from mayors in major cities, many providers dropped the steep fees for non-chain restaurants during the pandem-ic.) “We experimented with UberEats and a few others, but the 33 percent cut they want is insane,” says Matt Stamp, Master Sommelier and co-owner of Compline Wine Bar in Napa. “It shows a complete lack of understanding about a restaurant’s revenue structure. I’d rather just handle

orced into survival mode by the coronavirus pandemic, many restaurants and bars shuttered. Those that stayed open have had to drastically rework their businesses, many pivoting to takeout and delivery for the first time. Menus

were scaled down and revamped, pricing was adjusted, and beverage service was completely reimagined.

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Powered by to-go packaging, new signage, and a dose of social media, restaurants like Route 66

in Manhattan shifted gears to stay open after the dine-

in shutdown.

THE ON-PREMISE

PIVOT

FINE DINING TURNS TO TAKEOUT TO SAVE (SOME) JOBS DURING THE CORONAVIRUS SHUTDOWN

BY KATHLEEN WILLCOX

Untitled-9 1 1/7/20 12:24 PM

the deliveries myself, even if that means a lower volume.”

Besides, keeping deliveries in-house can mean retaining jobs. By shifting front-of-house staff to drivers, Colorado’s I.E. Hospitality Group, with Dry Storage, Basta, Bruto, and The Wolf’s Tailor, was able to keep most staff employed. Other operators use some delivery services, while encour-aging customers to order directly as much as possible. Stacey Sosa, who has owned Argentinian Estancia 460 since 1995 in New York City, listed with Seamless years ago, in order to retain one of her biggest clients, CitiGroup. But she incentivizes customers to order directly: “We offer customers a 25

percent discount on orders over $40 if they order through us, and for orders over $75 we include a free bottle of wine.”

RESTRUCTURING MENUS & PRICESNew emergency rules in some states have made temporary exceptions that allow restaurants to deliver alcohol during the shutdown period, providing a window of opportunity to increase profitability, and get creative. Sosa reported offering cock-tails in coffee cups at happy hour prices from 12 to 7pm has led to an impressive “uptick in orders.” Some restaurants are offering bottled cocktails.

In general, at restaurants that already leaned toward upscale comfort, like Com-pline and Estancia, the menu shifts have been subtle: replacing fish entrées with sturdier proteins and pastas which hold up better while traveling.

In Los Angeles, the Michelin Star-winning chef Anthony Alaimo’s 101 North Eatery & Bar is also offering a slightly con-densed and discounted version of its regu-

lar menu. “We want to accommodate the masses and ensure our food is accessible to all during these times,” Alaimo says. The menu is diverse, with $12 short rib sliders and an array of salads and pizzas for $14 to $22, and cumin-rubbed rack of lamb for $31. When Alaimo and his team added beer, wine and cocktail kits to their menu, he says, “business and revenue picked up.”

GETTING THE WORD OUT Forgoing delivery apps puts the marketing burden on restaurants, but many restau-rants are finding that their customers are eager to help spread the word.

In Colorado, Dry Storage is relying on social media as an informal advertising vehicle. “We’ve been using social media to promote our takeout and delivery, and our community has been very helpful in spread-ing the word on social media themselves,” says Colton Steiner, head miller. “This has been a huge learning experience for us, and it has made me realize how much we rely on each other, and our community.”

While no one can predict when the shutdown will end, or what the restaurant landscape will look like when it does, one thing is certain: The key ingredient for survival now is flexibility. ■

“We want to accommodate the

masses and ensure our food is accessible to all

during these times.”– Chef Anthony Alaimo, 101 North Eatery & Bar

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Canlis started with burgers, then expanded to a family-meal concept—with selected wines for sale as well. // 101 North in Los Angeles went to a shortened and discounted menu. // Brooklyn's Concord Hill created Aperol Spritz cocktail kits to go, and offered wines at a discount off the list.

BEST PRACTICES FOR DELIVERY/TAKEOUT AMID CORONAVIRUS

Safe food handling is paramount; a free video primer can be found at servsafe.com.

Be prepared to accept electronic payment for all orders, over the phone or online if possible; and have protective gloves and masks for all employees.

Set-up clear procedures for contact-free curbside pickup, including signage and tape or pylons to mark safe social distance.

Make sure your social media and website are up-to-date and clear about your menu, hours, policies, and ways to be contacted.

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INDUSTRY REPORT

positively for some operations. On the other hand, a statement by the Independent Restaurant Coalition (saverestaurants.com) called the short-term relief “insufficient to ensure independent restaurants can stay open and continue to employ over 11 mil-lion workers.” Jobs were the point, the Coalition had argued when lobbying Congress. As Bobby Stuckey, Master Sommelier and owner of Frasca and four other restaurants in Colorado, put it: “Saving the restaurant industry [would] save more jobs than any other industry asking for money.”

At the same time, with people continuing to hunker down and reinvent daily living, who knows how everyone will behave once the virus has passed? “Just how busy are restaurants going to be when we reopen?” asks Naomi Pomeroy, chef/owner of Beast PDX, a 26-seat fine dining restaurant in Portland, Oregon, where the entire staff was laid off in March and applied for unemployment—including herself. “Will people want to sit in a crowded dining room when we still don’t have a vaccine for COVID-19? Plus, the financial beat down we have all taken and the possibility of a major recession do not bode well for restaurants. We have no idea what we are look-ing at on the backside of this.”

GRIM NUMBERS, MANY UNKNOWNSBased on a survey of 4,000 of its members, the Na-tional Restaurant Association estimates that dur-

he two-week stretch from St. Patrick’s Day, 2020, to the end of the month, will surely be recorded as the biggest shock in restaurant history. Mandatory dine-in shut-downs in every state left millions of servers,

dishwashers, line cooks, and bartenders suddenly jobless.

But if the second half of March represented the new Dark Age of restau-rants and bars, April was shaping up as a gray area at best. The pandemic only began in the U.S. in March; the impact is bound to be layered and progressive. The consequences are unpredictable, not only because of the complexity of the economy, but more so because the situation keeps changing.

Witness the flurry of relief funds, the pivot to takeout and delivery, and the fast response of Congress, passing the CARES Act; these efforts could play out

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LEFT: Beast PDX was among many that had hoped to open for take-out, but after weighing costs and benefits, chose to temporarily close. // ABOVE: Frasca Hospitality Group in Colorado closed all of its restaurants; 10 percent of the state's workforce—285,000 people—is employed by the restaurant industry.

SLAMMED BY UNPRECEDENTED SHUTDOWNS, THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY BRACES FOR A HARD-TO-PREDICT FUTURE

BY BEVERAGE MEDIA EDITORS

RESTAURANTS REELING

ing the first 22 days of March, the restau-rant industry lost $25 billion in sales and more than 3 million jobs.

44% of operators temporarily closed their restaurants; 54% of operators switched to all off-premises service;

Seven in 10 restaurants laid-off employees and reduced hours (roughly half of them anticipated more layoffs and hourly reductions over the next 30 days)

3% of operators had permanently closed their restaurants and 11% anticipated permanently closing within the next 30 days

Moreover, as we learn more about the virus and how society reacts, many unknowns are bound to surface—and bring more change—in coming weeks. Among them:

How fast can financial help arrive, and how far will it go? The CARES Act, passed March 27, promised loan deferrals, grants, and hiring incentives. But many fear that most of the aid is going to be steered to-ward chains, leaving independents still struggling. Meanwhile, the Restaurant Employee Relief Fund began accepting ap-plications on April 2 from industry work-ers who were adversely impacted by CO-VID-19 financially; one-time $500 grants are certainly welcome, but not sustaining.

Business insurance is shaping up to be a legal wild card. The law firm that sued in-surers on behalf of the Thomas Keller Res-taurant Group in California and Cajun Con-ti in Louisiana formed a coalition to take on the insurance industry. The Business Inter-ruption Group (BIG), with celebrity chefs and restaurant industry groups on board, is demanding payment for restaurants that have business interruption insurance and don’t have exclusions for viruses. It may take months, but this could be a game changer, positioning more than half of im-pacted restaurants to file successful claims.

This is an election year. The hospi-tality industry could become a political

football, just like imported wines got run through the news wringer at the end of 2019 and beginning of 2020. At the same time, localities are not going to sit back idly; expect efforts in local communities to take aim at sustaining or restoring lo-cal food providers. And while much of the political near-term is unsettled, it stands to reason that industry associa-tions representing the industry in state capitals are going to be critically important.

Restaurants are already taking steps to liquidate their inventory, promoting specif-ic wines with menu options and some even offering bottles from their en-tire lists. In New York City, for example, wine-centric Marea began offering 25% discounts on full bottles off the Reserve List. And Mister Paradise, a bar in the East Village, began selling house-bottled cock-tails that serve two or three as well as full-blown cocktail kits with a bottle of liquor plus mixers and trimmings.

FUTURE WITHOUT FOCUSHow will restaurants be able to regroup? The pandemic caused ripples of hardship; issues of transportation, schooling and child care are going to continue to ham-per a return to “business as usual.” Res-taurants may have to rebuild their staffs when they reopen. And with many in the workforce not even going back to their old offices anytime soon, the entire nature of food service may be changing.

The future is still fuzzy in terms of what the restaurant landscape will look like and function like eventually; the sheer length of the shutdown will be a factor. In a recent New York Times interview, res-taurateur and author David Chang, said he felt the industry was already moving toward a delivery-driven model, and the pandemic may push us there faster.

Indeed, people have to eat, but who says they need to eat in restaurants and be served by waiters? Catering may un-

dergo a resurgence, or perhaps private chefs. Or maybe food co-

ops will swing back into the main-stream. New delivery options may develop as well. The future of food and beverage in America has never been less clear.

“I believe this is going to reshape the industry as we know it,” says Joel Gott, founder of Gott’s Roadside, a Napa-based restaurant chain, who is desperately try-ing to weather the pandemic. Five of of seven Gott’s locations remained open through March and into April for deliv-ery and take-out business, which has been brisk. Yet it’s far from sustainable: “Our daily payroll is larger than our revenue,” he reports. In spite of this, he is donating all sales to his employee relief fund to of-fer support to the workers that have been most affected by the crisis.

Some predict one-third of restaurants will not be able to reopen, because the cost of reopening is extremely high, even for small establishments. Chall Gray, co-owner of Slings & Arrows Consulting and Little Jumbo bars in Asheville, North Caro-lina, laid off all nine of his employees, yet he still feels luckier than most, as he was able to secure a three month deferral on his bars’ mortgages and has a small emer-gency fund. “I’m hearing numerous stories of other bar operators and restaurateurs already saying they simply won’t have the money to reopen,” Gray says. “It’s so much more expensive than simply turning the lights back on.” ■

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HELPING OUT

Signage at Gott's Roadside was representative of efforts to support employees who

lost jobs or hours.

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KNOB CREEK® KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY AND STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY, 50% ALC./VOL. ©2020 KNOB CREEK DISTILLING COMPANY, CLERMONT, KY.

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AGAVE ’SFROM RAICILLA TO BACANORA & BEYOND,

UNDERSTANDING THE SPECTRUM OF ANCIENT AGAVE SPIRITS

BY TESS ROSE LAMPERT

T he agave spirits section at Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City runs floor to ceiling with more than 300 brands. Yet, around a

quarter fall outside the tequila or mez-cal denominations. “I’ve never seen a time when a greater variety of agave spirits were available. Perhaps most importantly, the level of quality that is available remains ex-tremely high on average,” says Nima Ansari, spirits buyer at Astor.

Led by the simultaneous tequila and mezcal booms, the combined category grew faster than any other spirit category in the U.S. according to the Distilled Spirits Coun-cil (DISCUS). Moreover, mezcal hit 500,000 cases—a fivefold increase in five years—

which has helped open the floodgates for more esoteric sister spirits like raicilla, ba-canora, and sotol that have been made for centuries but until now were mostly un-known outside of their local regions.

Growing interest in small batch and craft tequila has undoubtedly fueled this more diverse agave spirits fever. Justin Lane Briggs, spirits specialist at NYC-based distributor Skurnik Wines & Spirits, notes, “Consumers are becoming more broadly in-formed, without a doubt. I see more famil-iarity with, and curiosity about, different [agave spirits].”

The connection between terroir and agave flavor profile is becoming more wide-ly appreciated. Even tequila giant Patrón is

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Agave spirits are often made with unconventional equipment, like this raicilla still at Las Perlas, made out of a tree trunk. // While tequila is made only from one variety of agave, mezcal and other agave spirits can be made from many; seen top, right, is Maximiliana agave in the Sierra region of Jalisco. // ABOVE: Ground oven for cooking agave to make raicilla.

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producing single-estate tequilas and has begun talking about the impact of eleva-tion on flavor profile.

This cultish geekiness around agave has allowed importers to feature produc-ers using traditional methods and re-claiming ancestral techniques. Here, we take a look at the growing subcategories of agave spirits and how they fit into the larger league.

RAICILLA: JALISCO’S OTHER AGAVE SPIRITRaicilla is a traditional agave spirit from Jalisco whose production is in line with ar-tisanal mezcal, but is not encompassed by the official denomination of origin. Raicil-la has gained momentum in the U.S. with more brands like Estancia and Mezonte now widely available.

Raicilla has been around for centu-ries, but was eclipsed by its more popu-lar neighbor, tequila. There are two main raicilla regions within the state of Jalisco, one in the mountains (sierra) and one on the coast (costa), each one with regional variations on agave varieties, fermenta-tion style, still materials and other pro-duction characteristics.

Flavor profile is highly dependent on region, variety, and production methods. Clayton Szczech, Mexico-based operator of Experience Agave , involved in the agave spirits culture of Jalisco for over a decade, notes, “While I’m reluctant to generalize, I would say that raicillas from the sierra tend to be more lactic and less smoky, and those of the coast tend to be more citric, tropical, and somewhat earthy.”

Production can differ significantly by region. Coastal raicillas are often made by cooking agaves using in-ground pits, while the mountain regions typically use above-ground clay ovens. Wild yeast fer-mentation is the rule in both regions, while distillation on the coast is usually done with a still that incorporates wood or clay, while steel is more common in the mountain regions.

In June 2019 an official denomination of origin (D.O.) went into effect for raicilla; before then it was self-governed by a con-glomerate of producers. Some brands are considering not participating in the D.O. because it deviates from the traditions of this centuries-old spirit. Brands like Las Perlas, believe that the D.O. legitimizes the category; co-owner Nikhil Bahadur admits that there are flaws but is hoping to iron out the kinks from within the system.

THE ONCE CLANDESTINE HERITAGE OF SONORA'S BACANORABacanara has a heritage of at least three centuries, but was illegal to make until 1992. This agave spirit finally got a denom-ination of origin in 2000, taking its name from the town of Bacanora, although it is made throughout the state of Sonora. Pro-duction is similar to artisanal mezcal, but with an enterprising spirit that often in-volves unconventional materials.

Like tequila, bacanora can only be pro-duced with one agave variety: pacifica, also known as yaquiana. This particularly hearty agave ripens in as little as six years in the hot and arid climate of Sonora. The production is similar to other agave spirits, with in-ground cooking, varied crushing methods including by hand and machine, and wild yeast fermentation. Because of the clandestine history of pro-duction, alternate and sometimes down-right strange materials can be found in

production, including plastic fermenta-tion tanks. Similarly, stills are often craft-ed out of unconventional materials. Bry-ant Joel Orozco, a Los Angeles bartender whose family has produced bacanora for generations, explains: “They had to use whatever they could get their hands on, so car radiators would be repurposed into a condenser, and what we would know as pot stills would really be oil drums.”

Because the production relies on just one agave variety, bacanora lends itself to general flavor descriptors better than most other agave spirit categories. Ivan Vasquez, owner of Los Angeles’s Madre

The cultish geekiness around agave has allowed importers to feature producers reclaiming ancestral techniques.

AGAVE SPECTRUM

New York City’s agave-focused The Cabinet has roughly 80 agave spirits available as straight pours, served in veladoras —traditional votive candle holders repurposed as mezcal glasses.

Las Perlas is among those hoping the new Raicilla D.O., created just last year after centuries of self-governing, will bring more attention to the category.

AGAVE SPECTRUM

Mezcaleria, weighs in: “Bacanora has al-luring flavors: dry, complex, and peppery with an earthy and low mineral flavor fin-ish.” With slow but steadily growing inter-est, there are only a few bottles in the U.S.; Rancho Tepua is one with consistent avail-ability, as well as Yoowe, Santo Cuviso, and Sunora Bacanora on the West Coast.

SOTOL: THE DESERT SPOONSotol is made like other traditional agave spirits, but the source material itself is the dasylirion plant family. Similar to agave, dasylirion is a close cousin with key differ-ences including a 10- to 15-year maturity time. It’s common in some areas to make a spirit from both agave and sotol plants in one batch.

Until recently, the spirits industry did not differentiate between sotol varieties, though like agaves, there are varietal dif-ferences. It’s becoming more and more common to see the breakdown of dasyl-irion varieties (like wheeleri, leiophyl-lum, and cedrosanum) included on bottle labels. Shad Kvetko, co-owner of Las Al-mas Rotas Mezcaleria in Dallas, muses about the flavor profiles of sotol: “From the green piney notes in a wheeleri to the earthy petrichor and leather of a leiophyl-lum, the earth, the climate, and the hand

of the maker all play an important part in the final flavor profile.”

Sotol production is limited to Duran-go, Chihuahua, and Coahuila. Sotol has its own D.O., but it isn’t recognized officially by the United States, opening the door for gray areas, like one producer of “Texas So-tol.” Demand and supply of sotol has been healthy over the past five years, with more than a handful of brands, such as Flor del Desierto, Clande, Fabriquero, and Sotol Por Siempre, available.

DESTILADO DE AGAVE There are dozens of other subcategories of agave spirits with unofficial designations, prohibited from using the term mezcal for political reasons, although their traditions may date back many generations. Often these fall under the generic umbrella of Destilado de Agave.

Chacolo, the newest offering from Heavy Métl Premium Imports, is an exam-ple of a spirit lawfully prohibited from be-ing called tequila or mezcal, even though it’s a traditional product from Jalisco. “The growing availability of Destilados de Aga-ve makes accessing more unusual distilla-tion traditions possible,” says Briggs.

Some brands—such as Cinco Sentidos, Rezpiral, and Mal Bien, that are within their legal rights to use the term “mez-cal”—are eschewing it to shed the addi-tional restrictions and costs that come along with certification.

Within the state of Jalisco alone there are category-defying offer-ings like Siembra Valles Tequila An-cestral, a tequila produced like a traditional mezcal; and Balancan Tuxca, which comes from the border of Jalisco and Colima, considered to be the birthplace of agave spirits.

Comiteco is an-other niche agave spirit from the southern state of Chiapas, though not at all like a mezcal. Comiteco is made by distilling pulque, the naturally fermented sap of the agave that dates far back into prehispanic culture. Currently available comitecos available in the U.S. are 9 Guardianes and D’Antano.

“I believe the only way we can keep the traditional mezcales alive is for us to educate the public about them and continue to educate ourselves,” shares Vasquez.

With myriad variations in regional styles, unique production quirks, and heritage shrouded in mystery, the aga-ve spirits category is alluring, as Briggs notes: “It’s encouraging to see beautiful and once-ignored agave spirits demand the same kind of respect as rare bottles of aged grain alcohol from Kentucky or Indiana.” n

Both Madre Mezcaleria (above, left) in Los Angeles and Las Almas Rotas Mezcaleria in Dallas offer many agave spirits beyond tequila and mezcal.

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CATEGORY FOCUS

AMERICA IS NUMERO UNO Tequila is growing internationally, and the U.S. stands out as the primary market--we drink more tequila even than Mexico. Globally, the tequila market has increased by 22 percent since 2014; over the same period U.S. sales volume grew 30 percent.

TEQUILA’S STAR TURNNew tequila brands entered the U.S. mar-ket in 2019 at the rate of 15 per month, and this activity has been highlighted by notable star power. More bands of amigos are aiming to follow in the footsteps of Rande Gerber and George Clooney’s Casa-migos brand: There is Nick Jonas and John Varvatos with Villa One; Michael Jordan and four basketball compadres with Cin-coro; and now Teremana, from Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. More entries from Hollywood & Agave, so to speak: Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo and Santo Fino; Rita Ora’s Prospero; and AC/DC’s Thunder-struck. The star power has also spilled into mezcal, where Breaking Bad guys Bryan Cranston and Aaron Paul have launched Dos Hombres. (No meth, no problem.)

BACK TO THE STONE AGETequilas made using a tahona (a large stone wheel) to crush agaves, and a brick oven to cook them, rather than an autoclave, are arguably a cut above. These artisanal methods, in tandem with the now broad reliance on high-quality blue Weber agave, give tequila a solid foundation for quality, not to mention authentic selling points. Brands using tahona stones include Roca

s the entire beverage market proceeds to reset, tequila stands out as a sector that is positive, growing in sales and popularity. Here are some of the leading category trends:

Blanco tequila, like Tanteo’s, remains the driver in most tequila cocktails. Margaritas still abound, but grapefruit-y Palomas like this one at St. Louis’s Yellowbelly are winning fans.

TEQUILA TODAY: LOOKING BUENOBY W. R. TISH

Michael Jordan and his NBA-related partners first conceived of Cincoro in 2016, aiming for a “better” tequila with a long finish like a fine whiskey. Launched in 2019 in select markets, Cincoro is now in 20 states.

A tahona stone crushes cooked agave at Patrón.

Patrón, Cascahuín, El Tesoro, Fortaleza, Suerte, and Tapatio. More signs that the pendulum is swinging back to-ward artisanal methods: Tres Agaves is building a new distillery with a tahona stone; and at Arette, an autoclave was replaced with a brick oven last summer. TEQUILA'S GROWING SPECTRUMNew flavor expressions are coming from brands big (Patrón XO Cafe, Citrónge, et al; 1800 Coconut) and small (21 Seeds, YaVe). Dulce Vida now has lime and grapefruit flavors. Peppery variants from Tanteo, Ghost and Agave Loco are tailor-made for spicy margaritas.

The next significant area for expan-sion could be the “cristalino” tequila phe-nomenon, where barrel-aged tequila is fil-tered clear and gains smoothness. Leading examples include 1800 Cristalino, Don Ju-lio 70, and Maestro Dobel Diamante. Also vying for shelf space are cristalinos from Cazadores, El Jimador, Herradura, Penta, Volcán De Mi Tierra, Horni-tos, and Cenote.

WHICH WAY NEXT?Premiumization is one trend likely to continue. IWSR reports that while the overall tequila market has increased by 22% since 2014, “pre-mium and above” price segments (defined as $22.50+ retail) captured by the research group showed a vol-ume sales increase of 64%. Jose Luis Hermoso, IWSR research director

for South America, credits the emergence of a cocktail culture in and out of the home. He adds that the rapid pace of tequila premiumization is spelling an opportunity to fill gaps at the higher end of the market.

With cocktails replacing shots, and lower-quality “mixto” tequilas

being pushed aside by more premium blue agave products, blanco (aka silver) tequila is becoming the flag bearer for the spirit. Tim Wiggins, co-owner and bever-age manager of three cocktail-centric St. Louis-area restaurants—Retreat Gastro-pub, Yellowbelly, and most recently Lazy Tiger—estimates that 90% of the tequila his bars pour is blanco.

Wiggins believes tequila drinkers are not especially brand loyal (Patrón and Es-polòn being exceptions), and when exper-imenting, they may not trade up. “I find that when tequila drinkers like to get ad-venturous they are usually very interested

in mezcal,” notes Wiggins. “They start wanting more of an intensified agave pro-file. I definitely see some guests sipping on aged tequilas, but more often than that they are wanting something smoky or sa-vory in a cocktail.”

If blanco rules in tequila cocktails, aged expressions are getting more at-tention at higher-end Mexican bars and restaurants like Garces Group’s Distrito, in Philadelphia. Chef-owner Jose Garces’s two must-haves for sipping are Clase Azul and Corralejo. (For margaritas he likes Don Julio Reposado and Herradura.) “Tequila has been a fast-growing category just in the past few years. Personally, despite having a very comprehensive whiskey bar [Village Whiskey], tequila has become my spirit of choice,” says Garces. “My go-to

is a reposado, on the rocks with a little bit of fresh lime.”

According to Dave Singh, se-nior brand manager for Palm Bay International, importer of Chamu-cos and Bribón, “Tequila and whis-key consumers know what they like, and tend to gravitate to what they know.” That said, he points to the crossover potential of extra añejo: “The quality of tequila, com-bined with better wood manage-ment, makes this an easy gateway for brown spirit lovers.” n

LEFT: Actor and former pro wrestler Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson joins his crew in Jalisco, at Destileria Teremana. // RIGHT: Jose Garces, chef-owner of Distrito in Philadelphia.

Clear difference? Cristalino and blanco tequila both appear clear, but the cristalino style is made when aged, amber tequila is filtered for both clarity and smoothness.

WHEN GINT H I N K S P I N K

GIN’S PINK-TINGED MOVEMENT IS NOT A SIMPLE CASE OF ROSÉ IMITATION

BY JACK ROBERTIELLO

E ven the booming cocktail renaissance couldn’t bring back Pink Gin—until now, that is.

A 19th-century favorite of the Brit-ish navy, the original Pink Gin cocktail offered stern stuff, the tangy botanical zip intensified with a generous dose of biting bitters. That was it—no sweet-ener, modifier or other barrier between the drinker and the potent concoction. It had plenty of fans in the golden era of cocktails in the 1920s, but proved a little too oomphy and too easy to make to suit modern mixologists.

Now more current-day gin makers have started to create pink gins, but theirs have unleashed a multi-headed beast. While some are 80+ proof gins made with bitters already included in homage to the original Pink Gin cocktail, others, equally rosy in hue, are fruit-forward, even sweet, and owing as much to chi-chi rosé wine as to an ancient cocktail.

This dynamic sets the stage for philo-sophical friction among the pink prod-ucts—and producers. “We live in a photo-genic world where appearance has become the priority and taste and product quality

is secondary,” says Geoff Curley, founder and CEO of London-based Gin Lane 1751, which sits in the throwback camp. “We saw what happened with the millennial pink color in fashion and that has crossed over to other lifestyle sectors and con-sumer goods.”

Another traditionalist, Stephan Berg, co-founder of Munich, Germany-based

Some pink gins, like Beefeater Pink and Puerto de Indias, are unabashedly fruity in their flavor profile; others, like The Bitter Truth, pay homage to a bold ancient cocktail called Pink Gin.

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PINK GIN COMEBACK

The Bitter Truth, likes to refer to the recent crop of pink gins as “just a tradi-tional gin with a fake tan.” His 40 percent ABV version is made with in-house bit-ters. “The majority of the newly intro-duced pink gins play with fruit flavor and lower ABV, trying to attract the younger crowd with a catchy color and sweet-ness,” says Berg.

Gil Spaier, owner of All Points West Distillery in Newark, New Jersey, does not try to draw upon history, but he does draw the line at flavor. “I don’t think berry-flavored gins are proper to the gin cat-egory at all,” says Spaier. “When thinking of ‘pink gins,’ I always think of the Plym-outh Gin and Angostura cocktail where spices are perfectly enhanced to the gin’s botanicals not dulling.” Nonetheless, he makes two gins, one getting both its hue and character from Brazilian pink pepper and hibiscus.

UNDER THE BIG PINK TENTBut so what if modern pink gins go out of the normal gin flavor bounds? People are not hesitating. On the contrary, flavored gin has already taken off internationally: according to IWSR Drinks Market Analy-sis in 2018 sales increased 78.3 percent globally with about a 20 percent market share in the UK. Pink spirits in the U.S. hit more than $20 million in retail sales in 2019, according to Nielsen.

Big producers Boodles and Beefeater offer varieties here, made with strawberry and rhubarb, and strawberry, respective-ly. “The U.S. is the biggest market in the world for flavored spirits and therefore, we see a huge opportunity for flavored gin to increase share,” says Louise Ryan, Marketing Director of the Gin Hub at Per-nod Ricard UK. Beefeater Pink, aimed at recruiting younger LDA gin drinkers, has already scored in California and Florida, accounting for 37 percent of volume na-tionwide. The company’s Italian gin brand Malfy (with a Rosa expression made with pink grapefruit and rhubarb) is one of the fastest growing super-premium gin brands, she says.

Flavor and color are both key variables for the fast-rising, pink-hued Puerto de Indias Strawberry Gin. Jose Sedano, in-ternational development director for the

brand, reports that the main reaction is surprise. “In the mind of the trade and consumer alike the flavor of gin is fairly well established,” he says. “Most don't rec-ognize it as gin but that's helping us to break into new ground.”

Ireland’s Glendalough, for its pink version, redistills its Wild Botanical Gin recipe with extra fruit, spices, and three varieties of fresh rose petals, rendering a naturally pink and quite floral gin.

In making a pink variation of Dorothy Parker Gin, Allen Katz, co-owner and dis-tiller of New York Distilling Co. in Brook-lyn, started by macerating rose petals in the gin, with elderberries (already part of the Parker botanical mix) added to fix the color. Stronger (88 proof) and unsweet-ened, unlike many of the new fangled pinks, Katz recommends his Dorothy Parker Rose Flavored Gin in G&Ts, Marti-nis, and other classic gin cocktails.

As for the old-timey Pink Gin cock-tail, he’ll be sticking to the recipe used for the last eight years at The Shanty, the bar adjoining the distillery—Dorothy Parker, Campari and Angostura bitters. Some things can’t be tinkered with. n

Flavored gin has already taken off globally, and in the UK—gin’s spiritual homeland — it has reached a 20% market share.

Debates on tradition aside, the lion's share of pink gins will wind up in cocktails rather than sipped, and most hold up quite well in a classic G&T. This one is made with The Bitter Truth Pink Gin.

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Flowing from 3000 years old traditions, the day of the dead celebration reflects memories and reminds us all to embrace life now. As the flavors and sensations of la catrina engulf you, let your

past and future merge to toast this moment.

s director of operations and partner at Gravitas, chef Matt Baker’s airy tasting-menu res-taurant in Washington, D.C.’s

on-the-rise Ivy City neighborhood, David Kurka leads the beverage program. Like many restaurants around the country, Gravitas, in the wake of COVID-19, has abruptly transitioned to an improvised delivery- and take-out-only model to temporarily stay afloat.

ALIA AKKAM: You are working on what is clearly a different scale than what is the norm for Gravitas, a relaxed fine dining restaurant. Why did you decide to stay open?

DAVID KURKA: To offer a service to the neighborhood and community-at-large—we are also providing pantry and fridge items like eggs, milk, butter, and butchered, uncooked chickens—and employment and some sort of facade of normalcy for our staff.

AA: How hard was it to adapt?

DK: At Gravitas we have the benefit of be-ing small and thus can pivot or make ad-justments on the fly, which definitely was crucial when we decided to go with take-out and delivery. There was not really any question as to whether we were going to try to do it. The question was how. We wanted to offer delivery in-house using our own staff, so dealing with the logistics of scheduling deliveries was certainly a bit of a learning curve. We decided to use our own staff so that we can give some hours to employees who would otherwise be unem-ployed and also so that we can make sure our standards are being met to the point where the order is handed to the guest.

AA: You are currently offering a Margarita, Vieux Carré, Spanish Bijou, and the signature Gravitas in large-format pints and quarts to go. How did you choose these drinks?

DK: We already had several cocktails that we were batching due to their popular-ity, so it was easy for us. For me the best batched cocktails are booze-forward and do not contain juice. The juice will drasti-cally shorten the shelf life.

AA: What has customer response been like so far?

DK: Our guests are the best. They really are like friends and family to us. They have been supportive and appreciative during this time and are not just ordering cocktails but an untold number of bottles of wine, beer, sake, and spirits. ■

DRINKS ON THE (TO-)GODAVID KURKA, GRAVITAS, WASHINGTON, D.C.

BY ALIA AKKAM

BAR TALK

Mantra getting him through the crisis: “Relax!”

DIY to-go drink packaging: Plastic deli cups

Bottle Service: Gin & Tonic (including a Rum & Tonic variation), Negroni, and Aperol Spritz packages also grace the new menu.

What He Loves Most About the Hospitality Industry: “The hospitality industry, at least here in D.C., is a family. It’s a dysfunctional family, but a family nonetheless. There is definitely a feeling of being in this together.”

• THE GRAVITAS COCKTAIL

When a restaurant is known for its constantly evolving menu, having an eponymous house cocktail means the drink is one the staff can stay excited about from season to season.

The Gravitas cocktail, available for takeout during the coronoavirus shutdown, is strong and complex.

Ingredients:3/4 oz WhistlePig “PiggyBack” Rye3/4 oz Maurin Quina aperitif3/4 oz Barolo Chinato

Dash orange bittersAbsinthe (for wash)Orange Peel garnish

Method: Build ingredients over ice and stir. Strain into a glass washed with absinthe. Garnish with orange peel and serve.

Turning inventory. And heads.

That’s Proof.

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ProofTM

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ome are getting by with a little help from their friends. Or, in the case of Jimmy Spiropoulos, op-erator of Town Center Market in Riverdale Park, a few special cus-

tomers. "We're now working behind sheets of Plexiglas that we have installed," he said. "They're hanging from the ceiling at each one of our five checkout counters. Basically, I went and bought five large sheets, and I had one of my local handymen -- who's actually a customer of mine -- install them. Custom-ers seem to really appreciate the steps we've taken to try and protect everyone."

He continued, "There is another custom-er of ours named Mike. He's an IT guy along with his wife, and they've basically set up our website to have an online ordering form for curbside pickup or delivery. Those orders are keeping us very busy. The challenge is the time it takes to put each one together is probably five or six times the normal transac-tion."

Kevin Atticks, founder of Grow & Fortify whose clients include the Maryland Wineries

INDUSTRY REPORT

S

ABOBE LEFT: Boordy Vineyards is taking orders and payments over the phone and will bring your wine to your car. // ABOVE RIGHT: Unused seating at Town Center Market's new $250,000 patio in Riverdale Park.CORONAVIRUS

AND THE LOCAL

MARKETMARYLAND'S BEER, WINE, AND SPIRITS TRADE IS ADAPTING, MOBILIZING, AND ENDURING IN THIS CRISIS

By TEDDY DURGIN

www.BeverageJournalInc.com May 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 35

Association and the Brewers Association of Maryland, singled out Brendan and Bailey O'Leary , owners of True Respite Brewery in Derwood. They have created an app called "Miermi," which organizes and automates the ordering/delivery pro-cess. One of their partner/investors cre-ated it within a day of the initial shutdown and has offered it for free use by the brewing community.

Others are surviving these tough times by putting even greater reliance on their employees. Ben Golueke of Mt. Airy Liquors in Carroll County said he and his staff have been busier than ever. "March ended up like a December," he stated, "which is our busiest month of the year. Other changes have been the amount of cleaning we are doing. It really has become after every single customer. Not to mention the constant wipe downs of carts, hand-trucks, beer box handles, door knobs, phones, etc."

Just the opposite, Marshele Burgess, proprietor of Rip's Country Inn in Bowie, has had to deal with losing a large chunk of her business. She lamented, "The big-gest change for us is the restaurant is closed to dine in and I have 104 employ-ees that count on Rip's for a living. We have gone to carry-out only. Daily, we are trying to be more creative with that. Res-taurant sales are down 90 percent. We're keeping restaurant staff employed with jobs at the liquor store and maintenance projects in the restaurant -- painting ev-erything, deep cleaning refrigeration, etc. We are also taking the time to work on retraining staff. They are taking online courses with ServSafe to have all up-to-date information."

And still for others, it's been the op-erational changes that have been among the most challenging to get used to. Just ask Mike Scheuerman of Friendship Wine & Liquor in Harford County. In addition to implementing curbside pickup for the first time, which may become a perma-nent part of the store's business model after the pandemic is over, he and his staff have reduced store hours. "Specifi-cally closing time, which we have scaled-back by two hours both weeknights and weekend nights," he said. "Also, we have substantially reduced our 'floor service,' but have added a position specifically for replying to e-mails and answering phone calls. We also ceased hosting in-store tastings immediately back when this all

began."E. Randolph Mar-

riner, chairman and founder of the Victoria Restaurant Group and Manor Hill Brew-ing, chimed in, "As a brewery that self-distributes in Montgomery County, we've added more delivery days to our weekly calendar. This has two purposes. One, it allows our retail partners in the county to be more flexible and re-stock more quickly. And, two, it allows our driver to take the time to ensure he's being safe on the road and in stores. Fewer deliveries per day means less rushing and making sure all the safety steps of sanitizing and cleaning are being followed."

Of course, more than just packaged goods stores and eating and drinking establishments are having to change in this time of pandemic. Maryland's winer-ies are scrambling also. Boordy Vineyards has remained open for carryout bottle sales, but has had to close its Tast-ing Room and postpone all on-site events, private tours, winery rentals, and casual visi-tation.

Boordy President Rob Deford commented, "The im-mediate impact is huge, and its ultimate severity will depend upon the duration of the shutdown. As a result, we've put an indefinite hold on all discretionary expenses and capital projects and have idled all part-time staff who work our events. There does appear to be a mitigating factor, which is that our sales in stores have increased since March 14 when the first restrictions on social interaction were imposed. Also on the positive side, our Internet sales have increased dramatically -- a by-product of folks being confined to their homes."

LOCAL HELP FROM NATIONAL RESOURCES

Another positive is the stepped-up help many of the beverage industry's national trade associations are offering. The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) sprang into action on Capitol Hill. Lisa Hawkins, Senior Vice President of Public Affairs, pointed out, "We were successful in getting a provi-sion in the recently passed CARES Act to ease tax regulations so that distillers producing hand sanitizer would not have

to pay federal excise taxes on the alcohol used."

She added, "There were other impor-tant provisions DISCUS lobbied for in the CARES Act to help craft distillers, includ-ing Small Business Administration loans and emergency grants. . . . As Congress works to provide additional economic re-lief to affected businesses, we are reach-ing out to legislators to underscore the important role of distilleries in boosting their local economies, and their connec-tion to the hospitality, restaurant, and tourism industries. The closures of craft distilleries in Maryland would be an in-credible loss to the state's economy. We are asking Congress for additional stimu-lus measures including federal excise tax relief; suspension of tariffs on distilled

spirits; robust no- and low-interest loan assistance; and the creation

of an industry stabilization fund."

The National Beer Whole-salers Association (NBWA) has also tried to stay out in front

of the crisis for its member-ship. President and CEO Craig

Purser stated, "NBWA has been in constant communication, sharing best

practices from across the country with our members. We're getting them the tools they need to be successful during this un-certainty, from the cleaning products to have on hand to the best ways to struc-ture their operations for social distancing. We're also sharing best practices they can tap into to help the community, like do-nating refrigerated trucks to food drives or giving water and other non-alcoholic drinks to first responders."

CARES Act

Easing the tax burden on distillers, allowing them

to produce hand sanitizer.

(continued on page 36)


MARYLAND STATE LICENSED BEVERAGE ASSOCIATION

On the state level, the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA) has been doing its part. Steve Wise, MSL-BA's legal counsel, said the first and most important thing the association is provid-ing its members is "accurate and timely communication. Governor Hogan has is-sued numerous Executive Orders affect-ing bars, restaurants, and package stores. Members have called literally while the Governor is still speaking at press confer-ences, asking, 'What does this mean for us?!' We're helping members by reading the Orders carefully, verifying our under-standing of them with state officials, and then getting concise information out to members quickly."

Wise further noted that the MSLBA is trying to provide as much information on small business loans and grants as it can. It's also sharing recommendations provided by health officials for protecting employees, customers, and the commu-nity.

Still, there is no doubt the ongoing pandemic represents the biggest crisis all concerned have ever faced from a busi-ness and just a sheer survival standpoint. Everyone interviewed for this article feel they are being tested like never before. Town Center Market, for instance, had just completed a new, $250,000 outdoor patio that was barely open before having to be shut down. "We were also a big lot-tery retailer, and those commissions have essentially gone to zero," Spiropoulos la-

mented.Marriner added, "In an industry that

relies on scheduling and planning months down the road, the uncertainty is a big test. But it's compounded by how quickly things are changing, as well. We have an incredible team of hardworking individu-als who look to us for answers during this time. And there aren't a lot of answers we can provide. Or, the answers we give are subject to change on a daily basis."

Burgess, meanwhile, was not afraid to admit that the biggest test of her lead-ership has been "trying to keep the em-ployees calm, positive, and not see the stress that ownership is under! The big-gest test is to hold the business together for everyone until this passes."

Association executives are dealing

with the pressures in their own way. Ever the proactive organization, DISCUS re-cently held a virtual #SpiritsUnitedToast to bring industry folks together. More than 400 people joined the toast. Hawkins said, "As part of the virtual event, Justin Cara-Donna, one of D.C.’s top bartend-ers at the Columbia Room, led a cocktail demonstration featuring tips on how to create the perfect at-home cocktail. Dur-ing the virtual toast, we raised an addi-tional $10,000 for [the United States Bar-tenders Guild's] COVID-19 relief fund."

MSLBA President Aashish Parikh's thoughts turned more inward. He said, "We have duties as officers of the Asso-ciation, so we have to remain calm and think ahead about how we can respond to not only the immediate needs of our members, but also what will be needed in the months ahead when hopefully we start to recover from this. We have al-ready started thinking of ways to help get on-premise businesses back on their feet as quickly as possible."

And, yes, for many of the industry professionals interviewed, they do see light at the end of the tunnel. Some of them are planning for when people will once again be crowding bars, stores, res-taurants, wine festivals, and other gather-ings where social distancing will be just a

ABOBE: The new Plexiglas now installed at Friendship Wine & Liquors' in Abingdon.

In reference to Governor Hogan's Executive Orders affecting bars,

restaurants, and package stores ...

"We're helping members by reading the Orders carefully, verifying our understanding of them with state officials, and then getting concise information out to members quickly."

Steve Wise, MSLBA Legal Counsel

INDUSTRY REPORT


memory.NBWA's Purser commented, "Of

course, we're looking ahead. In addition to distributors' work helping others, they are also making sure the beer will be fresh and well-stocked when it's finally time to grab a pint together. As the backbone of the beer industry, distributors will be ready to help the entire industry bounce back when this is behind us."

Deford of Boordy Vineyards added, "Our recovery will depend upon the man-ner in which the restrictions to social in-teraction are lifted. Will it be incremental, or simply a green light to resume normal life? We can modify our activities accord-ingly, but at this point there's no reason to speculate. We are maintaining a nimble approach, and are working with our ven-dors and other contractual partners to be flexible as well."

Most of the interviewees were like Mt. Airy Liquors' Ben Golueke in their out-looks. He concluded, "I have not thought too far ahead as of now, but I do plan on paying my employees as long as possible if they are still physically working or are staying home. Hopefully this will make for a seamless return to work when all of this is over and we return to our new normal. We as a business are also supporting our local restaurants and bars daily. I order food for our entire staff from a different local place every day. I hope this helps in the long run so our local restaurants will still be here when this is all over." n

INDUSTRY REPORT

ABOVE: Mount Airy Liquors in Mount Airy is offering curbside pick-up and is ensuring all carts are continually cleaned for their customers. // BELOW: Manor Hill Brewing in Ellicott City is accepting curbside orders.


INDUSTRY REPORT

Among the earliest to make the swi-tchover was Baltimore Spirits Company. Co-founder and CEO Max Lents re-marked, "I have a list [of customers] right now that is long enough that we'll prob-ably never make enough hand sanitizer to satisfy demand. So, there are a lot of

decisions that need to be made in terms of where the next batch is going and whether you give a full volume to one super-important account like Johns Hop-kins or whether you divvy it up to numer-ous other essential businesses that are at risk because they have to stay open and interact with various people like postal of-fices, UPS drivers, and the like. You want to help them, as well, and some are ask-ing for a lot smaller orders."

Brad Blackwell, owner and founder of Lost Ark Distilling in Columbia, has been making similar decisions. "The requests are so big right now," he marveled. "I'm also Vice President of the Maryland

State Distillers Guild. The last message I got from them just a few days ago [this interview was conducted in early April] was they've collected a backlog of re-quests that totals about 15,000 gallons of hand sanitizer! We have gotten requests from local businesses like a small home pest company to calls from Amazon and BG&E."

Of course, these are good problems to have in such a time of crisis and fur-ther proof of how vital the state's bever-age business is. No one is complaining Meg (MacWhirter) McNeill of MISCella-neous Distillery in Mt. Airy commented, "As soon as we closed our tasting room, we made the decision to pivot our focus to hand sanitizer. It took a few days to source the additional inputs needed and begin to create the first batch for dona-tion to non-profit partners. Our primary donations have gone to Meals on Wheels of Central Maryland . . . though we have been able to help with other requests from local non-profits, as well."

Blackwell said it wasn't a huge changeover in terms of equipment. The biggest change has been the packaging and Lost Ark's supply chain. "That's been a huge challenge, transitioning and figur-ing out where to buy the specific bottles and caps and have the labels designed in order to be printed," he said.

Lents concurred, adding, "Everybody has a different set-up in the way their distillery works. For us, we don't have an automated bottling line. Even the bot-tler that we have isn't really equipped to handle the style of bottles we're putting hand sanitizer in. So, we're bottling by hand. We essentially have a spigot on the bottom of a big tank. Once we blend up a new batch of sanitizer, we stick one bottle at a time under there, fill it, cap it, then label it."

Other area distilleries that have fol-lowed suit include: Twin Valley Distillers in Rockville, which is using a recipe of etha-nol, glycerol, lemongrass oil, Vitamin E oil, and aloe vera gel; McClintock Distill-ing in Frederick, which is combining the alcohol they normally make with glycerin, and hydrogen peroxide; and Cotton & Reed distillery in Washington, D.C., which has been giving away hand sanitizer with every purchase of rum in addition to giv-ing away sanitizer to local service industry workers.

Lents concluded, "We can all come together and fill the need. We're part of a direct response to a need created by this crisis. We're happy to be part of the Re-sistance!" n

he need for hand sanitizer became evi-dent as the COVID-19 outbreak resulted in

severe shortages of the product locally and nationally.

T

DISTILLERIES THROUGHOUT MARYLAND AND

ELSEWHERE HAVE BEEN MAKING A PRODUCT

THAT'S BECOME MORE VALUABLE THAN LIQUOR

By TEDDY DURGIN

LOCAL DISTILLERIESSHIFT FROM LIQUOR TO

HAND SANITIZER

What You Can do if You are at Higher Risk of Severe Illness from COVID-19

Based on what we know now, those at high-risk for severe illness from COVID-19 are: • People aged 65 years and older

• People who live in a nursing home or long-term care facility

People of all ages with underlying medical conditions, particularly if not well controlled, including: • People with chronic lung disease or moderate to severe asthma

• People who have serious heart conditions

• People who are immunocompromised - Many conditions can cause a person to be immunocompromised, including cancer treatment, smoking, bone marrow or organ transplantation, immune deficiencies, poorly controlled HIV or AIDS, and prolonged use of corticosteroids and other immune weakening medications.

• People with severe obesity (body mass index [BMI] of 40 or higher)

• People with diabetes

• People with chronic kidney disease undergoing dialysis

• People with liver disease

Are You at Higher Risk for Severe Illness?

Stay home if possible.

Wash your hands often.

Avoid close contact(6 feet, which is about two arm lengths) with people who are sick.

Clean and disinfect frequently touched surfaces.

Avoid all cruise travel and non-essential air travel.

316216A April 3, 2020 10:14 AM

cdc.gov/coronavirus

Call your healthcare professional if you are sick.

For more information on steps you can take to protect yourself, see CDC’s How to Protect Yourself.

Here’s What You Can do to Help Protect Yourself


Kim Lawson is the proprietor. And she is a firm believer that experiential retail is the way to stand out in today's crowded and intensely competitive market. Tout-ing her store's features, she said, "We have a 12-tap draft system to accommo-date crowler and growler fills. We have a Napa Technology Wine Station -- we call it the Wine ATM -- which allows custom-ers to sample one-, two-, and four-ounce pours at any time. And we employ a cer-tified cheese specialist, who will assist you in pairing your cheese or charcuterie course with your beverage of choice."

Fishpaws also offers in-store tastings from all departments. In addition, Lawson and her staff offer special wine, beer, and spirit dinners and classes. "We pick one-

of-a-kind single barrel bourbons, whis-keys, and tequilas which our team per-sonally select at distilleries," she added. "We then collaborate with breweries to age private-barrel, aged beers to offer on the growler station. And we participate in many off-site charity events, providing our unique products to offer fundraising opportunities."

But a lot of the fun has been sidelined due to the coronavirus pandemic. So far, Lawson and her staff have been up to the challenge. But there have definitely been changes and compromises.

"Our policies are changing daily as new guidelines are put in place by our governor," she stated. "We are social distancing with six-foot tape put down

BY TEDDY DURGIN

F ishpaws Marketplace in Arnold, Md., features a unique tag line both in store and on its website: "It's not a shopping trip … it's an experience!" And that is truth in advertising. This indepen-dently owned business has operated at the same location since before Prohibition. Today, it offers an extensive selection of imported and domestic wines; an assortment of craft, microbrew,

imported, and domestic beers; and a broad array of liquors and gourmet cheeses and foods.

FISHPAWS MARKETPLACE IN ARNOLD IS OFF THE HOOK

throughout our store. We have limited our hours to let our team deep clean and stock nightly. We have new barri-ers around our registers to protect our cashiers. We have gloves, wipes, and hand sanitizer at every register, phone, computer, and work area. We also have a table at our entry for customers, offering gloves and a sanitizer liquid for their use." Fishpaws offers delivery service, too.

Lawson says her biggest challenge since the crisis began has been making decisions for the safety of her employ-ees and just staying open to keep her staff employed and Fishpaws customers served. "We are so looking forward to returning to business as usual!" she said. "This has been extremely stressful, espe-cially for my managers. I plan on doing something special for them … not sure what yet. I'm definitely going to take them out for a relaxing dinner and prob-ably give them some extra time off. We all just want to get back to normal soon."

It helps that she has been active for many years with the Anne Arundel County Licensed Beverage Association, and she is also a member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA). Lawson remarked, "MSLBA is a great or-ganization. I have learned so much from the other retailers that you interact with

from all over the state. That knowl-edge and idea exchange has been very important for my success. I believe being informed about the industry and the legislative pro-cess is important. Our industry is so dependent on the legislative process that we all really need to participate to protect our industry and businesses. I've developed such great personal and profes-sional relationships through my involvement in the MSLBA."

In turn, Lawson is one of the association's most decorated members. She has twice been named Retailer of The Year by the National Association of Beverage Retailers in 1996 and 2016. And in 2014, Lawson with Fishpaws Marketplace was selected as the Small Business Administration’s Family Owned Small Business for Maryland.

In times of both success and hardship, she remembers the words of wisdom her parents, Brad and Chris Lawson, imparted on her. They were entrepreneurs also, owning gift stores and oth-er retail outlets. She concluded, "They taught me I could accomplish anything if

you worked hard and were fair. They also taught me the need to know how to do every job that you ask your staff to do." n

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Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950

MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.

Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected] Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ___________________________ Your Name: ____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: __________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: _________________________________________________________________

Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 One of Many Achievements - "MSLBA has kept the playing field even" for independent alcohol beverage retailers by repeatedly defeating chain store legislation

MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.

Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected]

Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ____________________________ Your Name: _____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: ___________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: __________________________________________________________________

Message from Kim Lawson of Fishpaws Marketplace:

"Our industry is so dependent on the legislative process that we all really need to participate to protect our industry and businesses. I've developed such great personal

and professional relationships through my involvement in the MSLBA."


Brewers Association of Maryland

The state's beer industry is experiencing event cancelations and reduced consum-er traffic due to the COVID-19 crises. The Maryland Craft Beer Festival, which was scheduled for May in Frederick, has been canceled. While the Brewers Association of Maryland hopes to schedule a 2020 postponement date, no date has been announced.

Maryland beer is available directly from breweries via retail carryout and delivery. When visiting their favorite local retail-ers, consumers are asked to support the Maryland beer industry by requesting Maryland-brewed beer.

Visit the Brewers Association of Maryland for information about the state's brewing industry and the organization's members. More information about the retail op-tions for Maryland beer can be found by visiting https://marylandbeer.org/retail-covid-19/.

Maryland Distillers Guild

Nearly 80% of members of the Maryland Distillers Guild have converted their pro-duction from spirits to hand sanitizer in an effort to respond to needs throughout Maryland communities. Despite having produced tens of thousands of gallons of hand sanitizer, the demand from medical facilities, first responders, and commu-nity organizations is unceasing. Access to key ingredients for the production of hand sanitizer is limited and Maryland's distilleries are working together to satisfy as many requests as possible.

Maryland distilleries are offering carryout and delivery sales of spirits from their dis-tilleries. Many local retailers carry a wide selection of Maryland spirits. Please ask for spirits produced in Maryland.

For updates about the Maryland Distill-ers Guild and its members visit http://marylandspirits.org. Updates about retail options can be found at https://mary landspirits.org/covid-19-retail-updates/.

Maryland Wineries Association

The 2020 Maryland Wine Month celebra-tions in March were cut short by orders of social distancing and closure of gather-ing spaces, like winery tasting rooms, throughout the state. Maryland wineries responded by focusing on carryout and curbside pickup options for consum-ers coming to the winery, several have reinvigorated their direct-to-consumer shipping programs, and many have introduced delivery options to customers within the wineries' local area. Maryland's wineries are thankful for the support they're receiving from retailers and con-sumers, alike.

Maryland's wine events are also being impacted by the response to COVID-19. A Maryland Wine Experience, an inaugu-ral Maryland Wineries Association event scheduled for late-April, was canceled and Howard County Recreation & Parks announced the cancellation of Wine in the Woods, scheduled for May.

To learn more about the Maryland wine industry, winery members of the Mary-land Wineries Association, and retail options available during this time of uncertainty, please visit https://maryland wine.com/covid-19-retail-options/.

NEWS AND HAPPENINGS IN AND AROUND MARYLAND'S BREWERIES, DISTILLERIES AND WINERIES

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