bfw nov-dec 2014

November-December 2014 | www.beautyfashionworld.in

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November-December 2014 | www.beautyfashionworld.in Government of India Registeration No. DELENG/47497

editorialGrowth of Indian Cosmetics Industry!India's cosmetics market is reportedly growing at 15-20 per cent annually, twice as fast as that of the US and European markets. Demand for skin whitening products by men as well as women, is driving the trend but other beauty products are not far behind.

Over the last five years, cosmetics products have seen a growth of 60 per cent. Skin care cosmetics have experienced a relatively slower growth and products such as anti-wrinkle creams, cleansers and toners are not as popular as facial creams, moisturisers and fairness creams in this genre. Companies like Pond's and Fair & Lovely top the list in this segment.

Due to the development of satellite television and a number of television channels as well as the Internet in the modern day, the Indian consumers are constantly being updated about new cosmetic products, translating into the desire to purchase them. Additionally, the flourishing Indian fashion/film industry is fueling growth into the Cosmetic industry in India by making Indians to realize the importance of having good looks and appearances. Today most of the cosmetics manufacturers in India cater to the domestic market but they are gradually establishing their footholds in overseas markets. In recent years, cosmetic manufactures in India have received orders from overseas markets; for example - Indian herbal cosmetic products have a tremendous demand in the international market.

According to a study titled "Prospects in the FMCG sector," recently made public by the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India, FMCG sector will witness more than 50 per cent growth in rural and semi-urban India by 2014.

Increased brand choices caused growth of many brands such as L’Oréal, Maybellene, Lakme, and others. People today ask for quality of products. This change is across the segments - all classes of towns and cities and mega cities - people have moved towards quality of products and self consciousness can be seen as important in rural towns as well.

The number of salons have also gone up. Its growth rate is 35 percent. Cosmetic treatments are also growing at the rate of 5 per cent. The hair and beauty industry is seeing a per capita annual spend of $1.2 which is expected to grow to $ 6.2 by 2015. The spa and body treatment segment is estimated to grow approximately $772 million over the next five to eight years.

Driven by growing consumption in rural and semi-urban areas, the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) market is set to double from $14.7 billion in 2008-09 to $30 billion in 2014 in order to become the fourth largest sector in the economy with a market size in excess of $14.7 billion

Cosmoprof 2015 offersambitious goals: the 48thedition will be held in

Bologna, March 19 to 23, 2015 and,once more, it will position itself asthe international event par excel-lence in the beauty world, gatheringall beauty trends and information onthe global world of cosmetics.

Great expectations for all the latestnews in the hair sector. In its sixthedition, On Hair confirms itself as themost eagerly awaited hair show andwill involve international cultdesigners, who will make spectacu-lar shows and propose "cuttingedge" cuts on avant-garde catwalks.There will also be the workshops forHair Forum: Italian excellence that hashad great success abroad with thedirect testimony of representativesof great depth in the hair.

Hair Ring, now in its fifth year, will beheld with the successful collabora-tion of the Italian Chamber ofHairdressing and will alternate youngtalents on stage. It will be a realspringboard for creative peoplewho can show to an internationalaudience of Cosmoprof their art andhighly charged proactive creativity.Among the initiatives for theaesthetics sector, a new projectdedicated to the "Spa Experience"

will be presented, in the increasedsquare footage exhibition areadedicated to this important sector,with the organization of a "SPAInternational Symposium" inpartnership with the major newspa-pers and associations. Linked to thismeeting a focus on Aesthetics inItaly will take place, almost a censusof schools with the most importantinsights held by exhibitors anddedicated beauticians andaestheticians apprentices.

Fashion and Cosmetics will meet forthe first time at Cosmoprof: TheExtraordinary Gallery, which containsthe most advanced internationaltrends, forms an alliance with a majorplayer in fashion: a forum with keyexecutives will tell the searchindustry, workshops and seminarwill analyze the relationship betweenFashion and Beauty.

Meanwhile, the Road ShowCosmoprof is taking place, thepresentations of the International Fair,which this year will touch SouthAfrica, Doha-Qatar, Germany,Morocco, the United States, Peru,Korea.

The International Buyer Programmewill also be enriched, involving 25areas of the world. The programme

COSMOPROF BOLOGNA 2015:WHAT’S NEW FOR THE NEXT EDITION

will provide the exhibitors a direct contact with the operators concerned tothe purchase of as many countries.

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the leading international B2B event forcompanies and professionals in the beauty industry.

The year 2014 recorded 207,238 visitors, including 59,319 from abroad,with over 250,000 products on display from 2,450 exhibitors from 69countries.

4 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

Cosmoprof Asia 2014, theindustry's leading B2B Beautyevent in Asia, returns for its

19th edition on 12-14 November2014 at the Hong Kong Conventionand Exhibition Centre. The event willhost more than 2,350 exhibitorsfrom 42 countries and regionsincluding 22 country and grouppavilions.

SPOT ON BEAUTY & BOUTIQUE

The 2014 edition debuts the launchpad “Spot On Beauty” for innovativeproducts in cosmetics, skincare,nail, hair and personal care. Locatedin the Convention Hall on the firstlevel of the Hong Kong Conventionand Exhibition Centre, Spot OnBeauty can be reached easily fromthe main entrance on Harbour Road.The new exhibition area will hostaround 150 international brands in3,700 square metres. Among thenew product offerings are theTahitian lava scrub by Natural HygyneCo Ltd (Thailand), Manuka Doctor(Hong Kong) Rejuvenating BeeVenom Face Mask, BLACK PAINT®skincare products by Myyuki Co Ltd(Japan) and green-based RaywellBio Nature Performer hair careproducts by Intercosmetics S.r.l.(Italy).

Spot On Beauty is complimented byBOUTIQUE, a luxury shop wherevisitors can review and buy travel-sized product samples by selectedexhibitors. For a donation ofHKD100, all attendees are invited tohand pick seven samples withadorable wrapping in a personalisedgift box sponsored by HCP, theworld-class contract manufacturer

for cosmetics. All proceedscollected from 12-14 November willbenefit the Hong Kong BreastCancer Foundation.

PRESTIGE AVENUE

Also new for Cosmoprof 2014 isthe Prestige Avenue, an openlounge area positioned within theCosmetics & Toiletries sector. Tenleading companies renown for highquality products and servicesservicing the luxury market throughtargeted distribution channels willexhibit in this area.

FULL CONFERENCE ANDEDUCATIONAL PROGRAMME

An impressive and comprehensiveeducational programme lines upCosmoprof Asia this year which willincludes nine presentations coveringspa and wellness, trends, market-specific analysis as well as ingredi-ents and formulations.

Cosmoprof Asia Spa Conferencetops the agenda with an unprec-edented line-up of 16 heavyweightspeakers from the spa industry. Thetheme for this 7th edition is “ExploreOpportunities, Enhance Skills". Thekeynote speaker, Andrew Gibson,Vice President, Spa and Wellness,Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resortswill address the topic “An overviewon trends: East meets West”. He willlook at the current spa trends andexamine what this means for thefuture of spas in Asia. Paneldiscussions will cover topicsincluding “How to best integrateproducts in your Spa to maximizerevenue?”, “The keys to open a

successful spa business in China”and “How to engage your customerby using social media?”

Focus on trends seminars will takeplace in two days. On 12 Novem-ber, research company Kline will givean update on at-home beautydevices and professional skincareproducts in Asia, with a specialfocus on Indonesia and Thailand atthe seminar “From Spa to YourHouse - Beauty Devices andProfessional Skin Care Markets inAsia”, while Information et Inspiration(France) will present the topic“Personal Care & Beauty Care, fromAsia to Europe, What’s in, What’shot?".

On 13 November, world-leadingdesign agency Centdegrés (France)will explain the consumption habitsin the world and the most innovativepractices that distinguish from eachother beauty, luxury and moreduring the seminar “ConsumerExperience”. The trend session willbe closed by Beautystreams at the“Autumn-Winter 2015/2016 SeasonalForecast” seminar exploring trends inmakeup, hair, skincare, fragrances,design, packaging and visualmerchandising.

China is inevitably the target marketfor the industry worldwide, thanksto the exponential economicgrowth of the country. At the forum“International Cosmetic Conference2014: Seize the distributionopportunities in the internet era”,industry veterans such as LiuYongming of Lizi Cosmetics Mall andWang Di of Zhuang Media willexplain with examples how foreign

Cosmoprof Asia 2014LEADING B2B BEAUTY EVENT:

COMMENCES NEXT MONTH

brands entering the China market,and foster cooperation between thebrands and the Chinese beautyindustry. Another market which isworth of attention is Japan. Thepresentation entitled “Organic &Natural Cosmetic Market in Japan"will look into how the Japanesecosmetics market, the second in theworld, still remains a huge opportu-nity for growth. In particular, MitsuruOgi of Mash Beauty Lab Co Ltd,Japan will analyze the growth ofnatural and organic products as amajor trend of the market in Japan.For the first time, the SCC CosmeticInnovation Summit 2014: "Technol-ogy Driven Innovation and Safety”will take place at Cosmoprof Asia.This summit will discuss the positiveimpact of new technologies on allaspects of a cosmetic product.Among the topics: the newingredients for anti-aging products,the impact of new technologies oncosmetic marketing strategies, andefficacy research confirming theeffectiveness of the products.Speakers invited include executivesfrom P&G Global and Shiseido CO.,LTD.

COSMOPROF ASIA GOESMOBILE!

Cosmoprof Asia launched theofficial mobile app for 2014 aimed atmaximising visitors’ experiences andkeeping them updated andinformed leading up to the event aswell as during the event. The app isdownloadable for free on eitherApple or Android devices.

For more information about theshow visit www.cosmoprof-asia.com


Changes in the look and feelof your skin during cold,winter months are not

abnormal, but you can counteractunpleasant irritation.

The telltale symptoms of dry skin areeasy to spot: Skin just generally feelsdrier and tighter. Other signs mayinclude roughness, itching, severeredness, flaking and scaling.Sometimes pores become lessvisible or skin may look dull. Insevere cases, skin may crack andbleed, especially on the hands andfingertips.

Why does it happen?

Sun exposure or cold, dry air cancause skin to become dehydrated.Dry skin is more common in thewinter because the air contains lesshumidity. It can also be genetic orhereditary, or a natural effect ofaging.

What are your options?

Over-the-counter lotions, such asEucerin and Curél, can relievedryness and flaking. Or try a bodycream that contains oil to help sealin moisture. Look for fragrance-freeproducts with alpha hydroxy acids,which gently exfoliate to allow more

water and moisture into the skin.Avoid antibacterial and deodorantsoaps, which can be harsh anddrying. Instead, use a gentlecleanser, such as Dove or Aveeno,or a mild shower gel with addedmoisturizers.Don't take extremely hot baths, orshower or soak in the tub for morethan 10 minutes. Doing so breaksdown your skin's natural protectiveoils, which keep it soft and smooth.Use a humidifier during the winter.Central heating and space heaterscan dry out the air in your home.Choose natural, breathable fabrics,such as cotton and silk, for yourbedding and innermost layer ofclothing.Drink plenty of water and otherliquids to keep skin hydrated fromthe inside out. Omega-3s (essentialfatty acids found in foods such assalmon, walnuts, flaxseed, soybeansand broccoli) can also help keepskin supple.

When should you worry?

See a dermatologist if dryness anditching keep you awake at night, ifOTC lotions aren't working, if youhave open sores or large areas ofscaling or peeling skin, or if youdevelop an infection from scratch-ing. You could have a more serious

Checkup: Winter SkinFrom Woman's Day

condition such as eczema, psoriasis or another skin disorder.

Did you know?

Although everyone's skin changes with age, a man's skin tends to stay moistlonger. That's because a woman's skin becomes much drier after meno-pause.

The best time to apply lotion is immediately after a shower or bath, whenskin is still damp.

Since dry skin is extra-sensitive, it's important protect it from the sun,especially if it's snowing (snow can reflect as much as 80 percent of thesun's rays). Apply SPF 15 or higher every day to your face, neck and ears.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014 |7

Impact Colors announces NatureXFol, an exciting new line ofCandelilla Beads Exfoliators

created specifically to replacepolyethylene microbeads.

Microbeads, tiny bits of plastic thatare practically invisible, have over thelast decade became ubiquitous inexfoliates, body washes, and soaps.Billions of these microbeads arepolluting both the environment andthe food chain—especially in thewaters of the Great Lakes.

"With this new line, Impact Colorshelps resolve a significant challengefor the personal care industry, forconsumers, and for the environ-ment," said Doug Thornley, ImpactColors CEO. "Our message is this:Chemists can stop usingmicrobeads now without compro-mising on function or value.Candelilla Beads are a cost-effective,all-natural, earth-friendly replace-ment."

The personal care industry has beenworking diligently to deal with theescalating challenge of microbeads.Industry leaders, such as Johnson &Johnson, Unilever, The Body Shop,L'Oreal, Colgate Palmolive and morehave committed to ridding their linesof plastic microbeads, targetingcomplete elimination by 2017 or

before. Regulatory bodies are alsobecoming more proactive. Illinois isthe first state to ban microbeadsentirely. There are plans afoot forsimilar action in California, New York,and other states.

"Since it became clear thatmicrobeads have such a negativeimpact on the environment andpotentially on consumer's health,manufacturers have been steppingup aggressively to eliminatepolyethylene microbeads across theboard," said Mr. Thornley.

"We've been working on a solutionfor some time. With this announce-ment, Impact Colors' CandelillaBeads line gives formulators' a clearpath to stop using microbeads."

Candelilla is completely natural,actually edible, entirely bio degrad-able, and very safe for the skin.Candelilla wax is obtained from theCandelilla plant, which grows wild inthe dessert in Northern Mexico andSouthern Texas.

"Our new Candelilla Beads linearrives at just the right time," said Mr.Thornley, "Until now, manufacturersreplacing microbeads had tocompromise. With Candelilla Beadschemists now have a full-function,cost-effective biodegradable

replacement that is also sustainablein its natural environment."

Candelillas grow in upright clumps.The plant's foliage exudes a grayishbrown powder that covers itssurface, protecting against adverseweather and retaining moisture. Thepowder is mostly comprised ofwax, which is harvested by boilingthe leaves and stems furtherprocessed. Processing Candelilla isearth friendly and sustainable.

The resulting Candelilla wax is 100percent natural, chemically stable,hard enough to exfoliate, and yeteasily moldable. The wax is a safenon-irritant for the skin and is eveningestible, which makes it an optionfor toothpaste, another commonapplication for microbeads.

"It isn't that manufacturers set out todamage the earth or endangerpeoples' health with microbeads,"said Mr.Thornley. "They were simplytrying to satisfy their customers,many of whom favor some nitty-gritty in their cleansers and scrubs.With Candelilla Beads, the applica-tion and marketing opportunities fornew, earth friendly lines of advancedexfoliates and scrubs are excitingand virtually limitless."

Impact Colors is known worldwide

Impact Colors Launches Nature XFol,a Range of Exfoliator Beads Derived from Candelilla

for expertise and originality in colorsand special effects pigments.

"Naturally we applied that know-how to creating the Nature XFolCandelilla Beads Exfoliators," Mr.Thornley said. "Our Candelilla beadsare available in white, yellow, red,blue, and green. Color can impartunique impact to virtually anypersonal care solution. Eliminatingplastic is impactful-- and ImpactColors did not want to miss theopportunity to use color to addsome sizzle and pop."

For ideas about trends in personalcare and cosmetic solutions, ImpactColors will be releasing Color Trends2016+ in September. The uniquetrends presentation, now in its fifthyear was developed by notedindustry trends expert, SunnyMateo.About Impact Colors, Inc.

Impact Colors, Inc., headquarteredin Conshohocken, PA withlaboratory facilities in Newark, DE,provides highest quality color effectpigments and products to thepersonal care marketplace world-wide. The company has aninternational distribution network ofthirty-two partners and is expert incolor trends. Impact Colors recentlycelebrated its sixth anniversary.


The original seekers of younger-looking skin used these naturalcompounds many centuries

ago, going back as far as the ancientEgyptians. In the United States, theirpopularity has skyrocketed in recentyears. First, dermatologists usedthem for in-office facial peels, thenthey found their way into many skincare products after their FDAapproval for over-the-counter use in1992. Today you can find AHAs inhundreds of items, ranging fromface and body creams to sun-screen, acne products, shampoos,cuticle softeners, and lighteningagents.

“Alpha hydroxy acids are greatexfoliators and increase blood flowto the skin, so they can help tominimize fine lines and wrinkles,”says Kenneth Beer, MD, a clinicalinstructor in dermatology at DukeUniversity in Durham, N.C., who is inprivate practice in Palm Beach, Fla.

Other potential skin care benefitsinclude lightening of dark spots anda reduction in the appearance ofblackheads and acne.

AHA Skin Care Products: Making theRight Choices

“There is no ‘best’ concentration,nor ‘best’ preparation,” says RobinAshinoff, MD, director of cosmetic

dermatology at HackensackUniversity Medical Center inHackensack, N.J. It all depends onyour skin type and the amount ofimprovement desired.

The main difference among alphahydroxy acid skin care products istheir concentration and pH. At over-the-counter levels, alpha hydroxyacids are generally safe for manypeople, though those with sensitiveskin, rosacea, or seborrheicdermatitis may be more likely to geta rash and need to halt treatment ortry a different brand. Typically, over-the-counter skin care products,such as moisturizers or lotions,contain less than 5-percent glycolicacid; medical-grade“cosmeceuticals” (products that area cross between cosmetics andpharmaceuticals, or drug-strengthmeds) have 8 to 14 percent. Theseproducts are designed for daily use,but it can take months to showimprovement.

“Quicker, better results can beobtained with 20- to 30-percent

glycolic acid peels, but results aretemporary and need to be repeatedfrequently,” says Dale Isaacson, MD,an associate clinical professor atGeorge Washington UniversityMedical Center who is in privatepractice in Washington, D.C. Thesepeels must be done by trainedcosmetologists.

The best and longest-lasting resultscome from peels done at 50- to 70-percent concentrations, but theyhave the most risk of side effectsand a doctor must apply them.

AHA Skin Care Products in aNutshell

The pros:

Subtle improvement gives skin afresher look.

With lighter peels, there’s fine-linereduction without any down time.

AHAs often lighten age spots andremove blackheads as part of theresults.

Add alpha hydroxy acid products to your skin care regimen for smoother, younger-looking skin. How to Give Yourself a Facial. Skin care fads come and go,

but alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been popular for some time. AHAs are a collection of compounds made from familiar food products. Among the

most widely known are glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (sour milk), malic acid (apples), citric acid (citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (wine grapes).

USE OF ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS)Drugstore brands are inexpensiveto try on your own.

The cons:

At-home products at lowconcentrations may take months toshow results.

The most effective peels must bedone in a doctor’s office and canbe expensive.

Deep peels have a longer healingtime; skin will look sunburned for acouple of days and then peel.New skin is more sensitive to sundamage; you’ll need to be vigilantabout sunscreen.

The next time you’re browsing forskin care products, look for thosecontaining one of the alpha hydroxyacids. And be sure to buy extrasunscreen — not just becauseAHAs expose new skin to sundamage, but because a goodsunscreen is also one of the bestways to prevent any further aging ofyour skin.


Successful in the Service ofBeauty: BEAUTY DÜSSELDORFin its 30th Year

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF has setstandards for cosmetics trade fairsand has been working successfullyin the service of beauty for 30 yearsnow. The Leading International TradeFair Cosmetics, Foot, Nail, Wellnessand Spa has stood for quality andprofessionalism for three decadesnow and has become the leadingcommunication meeting point forthe sector.

50,000 international trade visitors willcome here from 27 to 29 March

2015 to gather information on newproducts, treatments, trends,innovations and services. “We areproud of this success story. With its1,400 exhibitors and brands BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF is the largest beautyparlour in the world so to speak,and has therefore become anindispensable event for profession-als in the sector. In particular, thehigh-quality specialist programmewith over 100 events offers manyopportunities for further training aswell as inspiration for everydayworking routines,” explains DirectorHelmut Winkler. BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF is known for its clear

structure and appealing atmosphere.Its exhibition segments CosmeticsExclusive Ordering, CosmeticsDirect, Permanent Make-Up, Foot,Wellness and Spa as well as Nail andSalon Accessories all featured inHalls 9 to 12 of the exhibition centreoffer a comprehensive and idealoverview of the market. The setting,structure and specialist nature of therange along with a strict trade visitorregistration policy make BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF the discerning event itis today. This exclusive setting allowsprofessionals in the sector to meet,exchange ideas and go about theirbusiness.

Cosmetics – ComprehensiveKnow-how

Represented in the Cosmeticssegment are exhibitors and brandsoffering skincare, decorative andapparative cosmetics. Presentedhere are products for skincare andcleansing, natural cosmetics andmake-up trends as well as newtreatment methods and devices.

On all three days of BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF the central event forumfor the Cosmetics segment, theMeeting Point in Hall 10, will featureexhibitor presentations on innova-tions and trends. Special highlightsin the line-up at the Meeting Pointwill be the German and InternationalMake-Up Championships with thethemes “Special Event” and “Today’sBride” as well as the presentation ofthe “Golden Mask for Make-UpArtistry” and “A Life of Beauty”awards.

Nail – All Aspects of Nailcare

Exhibitors in the specialist Nailsegment present current trends,new treatment techniques andproducts as well as hand and nailcare concepts. The entire sectoralrange is on show here: geltreatments, airbrushing and nail art,care systems for natural nails, UVcuring lamps for artificial nails andmuch more.

The central focal point here isMeeting Point Nail with its informativespecialist programme. New in therange is the Nail Star Academywhere international stars in thesector will, in two-hour units,present new trends and profes-sional techniques and give tips foreveryday work in the nail salon.Visitors can become actively

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORFLEADING INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR COSMETICS, NAIL, FOOT,WELLNESS AND SPA FROM 27 – 29 MARCH 2015


involved at their own work stationsand watch their idols at work atclose hand.

Good for Feet: SpecialistInformation for Foot CareProfessionals

For both medical and cosmetic footcare professionals BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF is an importantcommunication and further trainingforum. Participating here areexhibitors with a comprehensiverange for podiatrist practice andcosmetic foot care with foot andnail care products, technicalequipment, salon furnishings andfittings as well as hygiene products.

The practice-oriented presentationsat Meeting Point Foot, organised incooperation with the CentralAssociation of German Podologistsand Podiatrists (Zentralverband derPodologen und FußpflegerDeutschlands – ZFD) as partners ofMesse Düsseldorf, are devoted tothe most important foot conditionsand other issues that podologistsand podiatrists face on a daily basis.

This includes the treatment of nail,pressure mark and skin problems,children’s and teenage feet, thepodo-taping concept or the legal

security of documentation.

Wellness – Current Trends

The stylishly designed Wellnesssegment offers a comprehensiveoverview of current trends, differenttreatments in the wellness and spasegment as well as therapy andtreatment cubicle technology. AtMeeting Point Wellness internationalspa and massage trends are alsopresented and vividly demonstrated.These include wellness ceremonies,detox programmes and salonfurnishings and fittings.

Spa – Innovations and Indi-vidual Consultation

One focus at the SPA BUSINESSLOUNGE at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF isthe efficiency of spa operations.Here the topic of successful spamanagement as well as the planningand designing of spas from a varietyof perspectives will be dealt with ininteresting specialist lectures andpanel discussions. For trade visitorsfrom the hotel trade, investment,facility operation and managementsectors the SPA BUSINESS LOUNGEoffers an exclusive and discerninglecture, consulting and communica-tion platform. A special highlight inthe programme is the voting of the

Spa Manager of the Year, awardedfor the fourth time now in 2015.

SPECIAL THEMES

Compact Know-How at theTrend Forum

One of the most important factorsfor staying on the market long term iscontinual information and furthertraining. In one-hour specialistlectures renowned speakers fromthe field of science and practice willbe conveying their compact know-how. The lectures at the Trend Forum(Hall 10) offer impulses andmotivation, selected themes fromhealth and beauty as well as ideasfor practical work and specialistknowledge first hand. Themesinclude “The Body in its Best Shape– How Metabolism Works",“Cosmetics – Trigger for, orProtection against, Allergies?" or“Cosmetics in Prevention – MaintainHealth and Beauty". The lectures canbe attended with no prior registra-tion or additional costs.

Live Production

With various cooperation partnersBEAUTY DÜSSELDORF will bepresenting the “TransparentWorkshop” in Hall 10. At this special

show visitors can experience closeup the development of variouscosmetic products from theirmanufacture and productionthrough to application and sales.The Live Production feature therebyprovides an interesting view behindthe scenes of the professionalcosmetics industry.

International Brand Café

The brand universe in the cosmeticssector is becoming ever morecomprehensive. Cosmetics, nail,foot, wellness and spa exhibitorscount numerous national andinternational brands. But whobelongs to whom and where dowe find what? At the InternationalBrand Café in Hall 10 visitors toBEAUTY DÜSSELDORF can find theright answers and information over arefreshing drink or aromatic coffee.

Future Spa Special ShowIn cooperation with the GermanWellness Association BEAUTYDÜSSELDORF has been realisinginnovative special shows for manyyears. A group of ambitiousarchitecture students at DüsseldorfPolytechnic under the guidance ofProfessor Harry Vetter will bepresenting different design andspace concepts for spas of the


future at the Future Spa area in Hall 9.

Wellness & Spa InnovationAwards and Innovation Gallery

For the third time now the GermanWellness Association will beawarding the Wellness & SpaInnovation Awards. The associationhonours innovations and forward-looking ideas in the wellness andspa sector in four categories and willbe presenting these awards for thefirst time at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF onSunday, 29 March, at 4 pm. Thenominated entries will also be onshow in the new Innovation Galleryin Hall 9.

Podology Training

Organised in cooperation with theCentral Association of GermanPodologists and Podiatrists(Zentralverband der Podologen undFußpfleger Deutschlands – ZFD) thespecial area “Podology Training”conveys comprehensive informationon the future of the podologist’sprofession as well as trainingmethods, professional focuses anddevelopment options. The furthertraining from podiatrist to podologistis centre stage here.

Gloria – German CosmeticsPrize

After its successful premiere lastyear, 2015 will also see thepresentation of the German GloriaCosmetics Prize. The publishing

house KOSMETIK internationalpresents awards to personalities andcompanies for their merits andservices in six categories. Thepresentation of the Gloria Prize willbe held as part of a gala on Fridayevening. The sectoral award issupported by renowned compa-nies in the sector, the associationVCP Verband Cosmetic Professionaland Messe Düsseldorf.

Medical SkinCare Congress

Held for the first time in parallel withBEAUTY will be the Medical SkinCareCongress Düsseldorf. On Friday, 27and Saturday, 28 March, topicalscientific trends in the field ofaesthetic dermatology andcosmetology will be discussed atthe Congress Centre CCD Ost. Infocus here will be solutions for salesimplementation and increasingturnover at beauty salons and inbricks and mortar retail. Specialistscientific lectures from the fields ofaesthetic dermatology andcosmetology will be centre stage atthe congress. The internationalspeakers and top-notch experts willtalk about topics such asdermatocosmetics, aesthetic surgeryand dermatology, apparativeprocedures in professionalcosmetics and managementconcepts in professional cosmeticsand the retail trade. The congress isaimed at entrepreneurs andspecialist personnel from cosmeticinstitutes, perfumeries, pharmacies,hotel spas and interested derma-

tologists. The participation fee (from€ 195) is a complete price incl.BEAUTY admission, a get together,snacks and drinks.

DKMS LIFE – "Look Good FeelBetter"

The cosmetics programme at thenon-profit company DKMS LIFE iscalled "look good feel better". Thecompany has set itself the task ofencouraging female patients toadopt a life-affirming attitude duringthe difficult time of cancer therapy.Throughout Germany DKMS LIFEorganises some 1,200 cosmeticseminars a year at more than 250institutions for female cancerpatients in therapy. Its appearance atBEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is aimed athelping to win over more cosmeti-cians to collaborate at patientseminars.

Service with a Capital “S”

The trade fair is restricted to tradevisitors who can register atwww.beauty.de beforehand. Afterregistration eTickets can bepurchased. 1-day tickets cost € 35(Online-Ticket € 30), 2-day tickets €50 (Online € 45). And what is evenbetter: ticket prices are “all-inclusive”. This is unique toDüsseldorf! Access to the trade fair,attendance of the technical lectureprogramme, cloakroom and luggagestorage, trade fair journal, childcarefacility and local public transport ingreater Düsseldorf: One ticket – one

price.

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF is open fromFriday to Sunday, 27 – 29 March2015, from 9.00 am – 6.00 pm. Forfurther up-to-date information go towww.beauty.de or contact theBEAUTY-Hotline on +49(0)2114560 7602. Here you will also findinformation on attractive hotel andtravel offers.

Would you please mention in yourreport that the BEAUTY DÜSSELDORFis intended for trade visitors onlyand that tickets are subject tosuitable credentials.

Three Trade Fairs running in Parallel on

the Last Weekend in March

The last weekend in March 2015

sees Düsseldorf very much in the

beauty mood when it hosts BEAUTY

DÜSSELDORF, the leading interna-

tional trade fair for cosmetics, nail,

foot, wellness and spa, from Friday,

27 to Sunday, 29 March 2015.

Overlapping with this on two days is

the parallel event TOP HAIR

INTERNATIONAL Trend & Fashion

Days, Germany’s leading hairdress-

ing trade fair, running on Saturday, 28

and Sunday, 29 March. Also held on

Saturday, 28 and Sunday, 29 March

is the sixth make-up artist design

show, Germany’s only trade fair for

make-up artists.


Lonza has recently launched anew Lonzest™ DC EmollientEster & Rômacil™ V multifunc-

tional cosmetic ingredient.Lonzest™ DC Emollient Ester offerssuperb spreadability on the skin andexcellent skin-conditioningproperties that will benefit personalcare formulators.

Rômacil™ V can be added as afragrance, and it also provides abeneficial secondary effect as abroad-spectrum antimicrobial.

Lonzest™ DC emollient ester

Representing the latest multi-functional ingredient from Lonza,Lonzest™ DC (dicaprylyl carbonate)is a light ester emollient thatconditions skin with superiorsolubility of UV sun filters. It hasexcellent pigment-wetting proper-ties and is a silicone-free alternative.

The product helps give a light, dry,powdery feel to the skin so that theskin doesn't feel oily or greasydespite the application of asunscreen or face lotion. Lonzest™DC can be used in sunscreens,color cosmetics, daily facial lotions,overnight serums and non-greasyaesthetic formulations.

"Lonzest™ DC emollient ester is abroadly functional ingredient informulation. One of the majorbenefits is its ability to providepigment wetting for color cosmet-

ics," said Lisa Bouldin, Head ofLonza Personal Care. "Study resultsalso confirmed it is capable ofhelping to solubilize many differentorganic UV filters, as well as toimprove the dispersion of inorganicUV filters."

Lonza has incorporated theLonzest™ DC technology into twoavailable formulations for cosmeticand personal care formulators:HydraTherapy™ Sleep Time Maskand Polyaldo™ Base Formulations.

Rômacil™ V MultifunctionalIngredient

"Our new multipurpose Rômacil™ Vingredient is a fragrance that also hasantimicrobial effects," says LauraSzymczak-Frye, Global MarketingManager, Lonza Personal Care.

"Formulators now have available adual-purpose ingredient that can beused at low-concentration levelsand that offers a variety of provenbenefits in multiple applications."

Drawing on its decades-longexperience in the cosmetic andpersonal care industries and on itsskills in analytical chemistry andtoxicology, Lonza Personal Caredeveloped the new Rômacil™ Vproduct to respond to formulators'desires for ingredients that offermultiple benefits, that simplify theformulation process and that offerconsumers key desired effects.

About Lonza Personal CareBased in South Plainfield, NJ (USA)and with customer-support facilitiesthroughout the world, LonzaPersonal Care is a comprehensivesolutions provider that offers globalcosmetic and personal carecustomers an extensive portfolio ofinnovative hair and skin careproducts and services.

It is one of the world's largestsuppliers of antidandruff actives andzinc pyrithione hair care solutions.Also it is amongst leading suppliersof traditional and natural preserva-tives, custom-developed fermenta-tion and biotechnological actives,and cosmeceutical andnutricosmetic products. Many of itsproducts are certified as natural ororganic under global regulatory andtrade systems. Lonza Personal Careis a part of the company's Con-sumer Care business.

About Lonza

Lonza is one of the world's leadingand most-trusted suppliers to thepharmaceutical, biotech andspecialty ingredients markets. Itharnesses science and technologyto create products that supportsafer and healthier living and thatenhance the overall quality of life.

Not only are it is a custom manufac-turer and developer, Lonza alsooffers services and products rangingfrom active pharmaceutical

Lonza Introduces Lonzest™ DC Emollient Ester &Rômacil™ V Multifunctional Ingredient

ingredients and stem-cell therapiesto drinking water sanitizers, from thevitamin B compounds and organicpersonal care ingredients toagricultural products, and fromindustrial preservatives to microbialcontrol solutions that combatdangerous viruses, bacteria andother pathogens.

Founded in 1897 in the Swiss Alps,Lonza today is a well-respectedglobal company with more than 40major manufacturing and R&Dfacilities and approximately 10,000employees worldwide.

The company generated sales of

about CHF 3.6 billion in 2013 and is

organized into two market-focused

segments: Pharma&Biotech and

Specialty Ingredients.


Croda, one of the globalspecialty chemical companies, launches its latest

products derived from superfoods;Hydroastivum™ P for powerfulmoisturization and anti-irritancyproperties for the hair and skin; andCrodasone™ P for protectionagainst cuticle cracking caused byheat and styling damage.

Cosmetic Proteins from Superfoods

Ingredients derived from 'superfood'sources have become increasinglypopular and the number of personalcare products with claims focusedon superfood connotations havemore than doubled in the last fewyears (Source: GNPD, March 2014).Croda have used their 40 years ofexperience in proteins to developtwo new biopolymers that not onlymeet the trend but providefunctional benefits to final products.

Hydroastivum P and Crodasone Pare both derived from thesuperfood Pisum sativum or 'pea'which is popular for its high proteincontent, unique assortment ofphyto-nutrients and antioxidantproperties.

In personal care applications, Pisumsativum provides a rich source ofamino acids. Hydrosativum P andCrodasone P both contain highlevels of glutamic acid, aspartic acid,argenine and lysine all of which havevital properties for hair and skin care.

Hydrolyzed proteins such as wheatand silk have been used to impartmoisture and conditioning proper-ties to the hair and skin for decades.Over 40 years ago, Croda was thefirst to bring cosmetic gradeproteins to the industry and hasbeen at the forefront of biopolymerinnovation ever since.

Proteins adsorb readily onto thesurface of skin and hair and aregenerally hygroscopic, meaning they

attract water molecules from the airto act as humectants.

Hydrosativum P

Obtain hydration harmony withHydrosativum P, a highly moistureretentive biopolymer that exhibitspowerful moisturization propertiesin hair and skin care formulations.

Hydrosativum P immerses the skinwith moisture to improve firmnessand elasticity which promotesyounger looking skin. As well asmoisturization benefits.

Hydrosativum P has additional anti-irritancy properties ideal for skin andscalp care. Hydrosativum P isnaturally substantive to a variety ofhair types from different ethnicitiesbinding to moisture and hydratinghair at a wide range of humidities,increasing hair plasticity to helpprevent breakage.

Crodasone P

Defend cuticles from heat andstyling damage with Crodasone P, anadvanced copolymer that offersproven protection against cuticlecracking caused by common hairstyling practices such as blow-drying, combing and styling. Due toits complex polymeric structure,Crodasone P cross-links on dryingto form a conditioning andprotective network that offersfunctional benefits to all types of haircare products.

Studies have shown that CrodasoneP can reduce thermal cracking by49% in an aqueous spritz and 38%in a conditioner system. CrodasoneP is ideally suited to leave-on stylingproducts or conditioners claimingheat defense but is also proven tobe effective in rinse-off applicationssuch as shampoos, conditionersand hair treatments to defend thecuticles from damage caused duringstyling. Superfood Formulations

Croda have developed a range offormulations packed full ofsuperfoods to meet the marketneed.

'Super Satin Cooling Lotion' is acooling skin moisturizer thatcontains Hydrosativum P andblueberry extract. 'Scoopable HairSouffle' is a nourishing hair mask witha novel texture that containsCrodasone P for cuticle protection,Hydrosativum P to lavish the hair andscalp with moisture and is packedfull of superfoods includingpomegranate, apple and blueberry.'Blow-Dry Defender Spritz' is athermally activated heat defensespray with extracts of pea and gojiberry.

Finally the 'DD Hair Rescue Shield'offers multifunctional claims to meetthe '10 in 1' concept including; anti-breakage, anti-aging, blow-drydefense, targeted repair, long-lastingconditioning, environmentalprotection, moisturization, gloss,smoothing and detangling.

About CrodaCroda is one of the world leading

Croda Unveils Pea-derived Hydroastivum™ P &Crodasone™ P Actives for Skin & Hair Hydration

suppliers of specialty chemicals forthe Personal Care, Home Care,Functional Specialties, Health Careand Manufacturing Industries.

It is part of a global network andoffers one of the widest ranges ofchemical specialties, surfactants andhigh purity lipids available to theindustries in which it operates.Croda also carries a full line ofnatural, botanical ingredients from itsCrodarom division and a full range ofskin care actives from the Sedermadivision.

About Croda Personal Care

Croda is one of the world's leadingglobal suppliers of specialty rawmaterials for the Personal Careindustry, working with theircustomers to meet variousconsumer needs.

Supported by proven efficacytesting, Croda's wide and diverseproduct range combines functional-ity with innovation to deliversophisticated ingredients andactives that meet the needs ofspecific consumer demands.


Symrise launches SymVital® AR,which is a 100% pure and naturalginger root extract. SymVital® AR isproven to significantly improve theskin texture and smoothness ofstressed skin, smoothing wrinklesand enhancing complexion regularityin three weeks. It also helps toreduce signs of sun damages in lessthan two weeks.

It is widely known that the sunaccelerates the appearance ofwrinkles and promotes sagging anddullness of skin. 78% of consumerswould like to prevent these signs.For many, uneven skin tone can be asource of shame. 58% of consum-ers feel bad with an uneven skintone. The demand for skin perfec-tion is rising in women of all ages. Intheir thirties, female consumers longfor luminous skin without imperfec-tions, irregularities and fine lines.Women aged 45-plus focus onluminous skin as well with theincreasing emphasis on wrinklereduction.

To address these concerns, Symrisehas developed SymVital® AR, a100% natural ingredient from gingerroot. The spice has a long history ofuse for food and pharmaceuticalapplication. More than 3,000 yearsago, the Chinese and Indians firstcultivated ginger. It is part of manytraditional remedies all over theworld for its multiple properties, e.g.

in TCM and Ayurveda. It has a widevariety of medicinal, pharmaceuticaland cosmetic effects including anti-inflammatory, sedative, antibiotic,antioxidative, antiseptic andstimulating.

Symrise uses an eco-friendlyprocess to extract the maincomponents of ginger withsoothing and antioxidant activity.Thanks to a multistep separationprocess the final extract is enrichedwith the two main compoundsresponsible for the benefits in skincare application.

The versatile skin beautifierSymVital® AR is suitable for allcomplexions and ages. It protectsand improves skin smoothness,complexion regularity and homoge-neity of the challenged and stressedskin. Antioxidant and soothingactivities provide skin protecting andcaring properties. SymVital® AR isproven to significantly smoothwrinkles and even the skin tone in21 days and also help to reducesigns of sun damages in less than 2weeks.

After 56 days of using a cream with0.2% SymVital® AR twice daily, theproduct significantly decreased theappearance of UV spots comparedto a placebo product. This wasconfirmed by 74% of the users.These results prove a protective

effect of the product against UVspots likely to appear over time byfading them before they becomevisible.

Dr Marielle Le Maire, Global ProductDirector Life Essentials at Symrise,describes the product: "We havedeveloped SymVital® AR to allowour customers to create productsthat significantly beautify skin toneand texture and therefore become areal ally for skin of all ages. Addition-ally, the pure natural ginger rootextract underlines our approach ofusing natural raw materials. We willcontinue to develop suitable skincare solutions to meet the consum-ers' wishes for effective & naturalcosmetics – today and in the future."

About Symrise

Symrise is one of the globalsuppliers of fragrances, flavorings,cosmetic active ingredients and rawmaterials as well as functionalingredients. Its clients includemanufacturers of perfumes,cosmetics, food and beverages, thepharmaceutical industry and

Symrise Launches SymVital® AR, a 100% NaturalGinger Root Extract to Get Healthy Radiance

producers of nutritional supple-ments.

Its sales of € 1.830 billion in 2013place Symrise among the top fourcompanies in the global flavors andfragrances market. Headquartered inHolzminden, Germany, the Group isrepresented in 35 countries inEurope, Africa, the Middle East,Asia, the United States and LatinAmerica.

Symrise works with its clients todevelop new ideas and market-ready concepts for products thatform an indispensable part ofeveryday life. Economic successand corporate responsibility areinextricably linked as part of thisprocess. Symrise thus takessustainability into account in everypart of its corporate strategy. DQScertified Symrise as "GreenCompany" in 2013.


Lipotec introducesNOCTURSHAPE™ blueingredient which, especially

active at night time, is directed atproviding a superior anti-cellulitebenefit with results in only 15 days.

Why at nighttime? NOCTURSHAPE™blue ingredient target the expressionof the circadian gene nocturnin inadipocytes, which peaks at earlynight. By reducing its levels, it doesthe lipid accumulation.

The stimulation of lipolysis has beensignificant in vitro at the testedconcentration in synchronized cellsduring the differentiation process.

Moreover, fat reduction has showedto be more effective withNOCTURSHAPE™ blue ingredientthan with caffeine.

This new active ingredient is anexopolysaccharide which has beenobtained through biotechnologyfrom a planktonic microorganism. Itsslimming profile is completed withits efficacy in reinforcing the dermalmatrix through type I collagen, whatcontributes to reducing visible fat

nodules that characterizes cellulite.Macroscopic Benefit

A complete in vivo test supportsthe efficacy of NOCTURSHAPE™blue ingredient in reducingcentimetres while improving theappearance and quality of the skin.The reduction in thighs was ofalmost -1 cm after only 15 days of anighttime active cream application(4%).

The improvement of celluliteappearance was also visible per theincrease of skin relief, as show thedigital photographs, and theunevenness of subcutaneous fatdeposits.

This trend was also evident at theend of a 30-day treatment as well aswhen measuring skin firmness,improved by 23%. A clinicalevaluation on the signs and intensityof cellulite complete the efficacystudy.

As per the results, NOCTURSHAPE™blue ingredient can be incorporatedinto body care formulations claimingglobal anti-cellulite, slimming and

Lipotec Launches NOCTURSHAPE™ Blue Ingredient,an Exopolysaccharide to Fight Cellulite

firming properties with specificnightime application. Withinchronobiology, circadian rhythmscan give us a clue of which is themost favourable time to apply aspecific cosmetic product. Withthis, more and more, efficient activeingredients can contribute to thesaving time concept, a key theme intoday’s cosmetic market, whilebenefits can be accommodated toa wider range of lifestyles of modernconsumers.

About Lipotec

Founded in 1987 and based inBarcelona, Lipotec researches,

develops and manufacturescosmetic active ingredients. SinceJuly 2012 is part of The LubrizolCorp. A thorough expansion of thecompany’s well known platformsMolecular Cosmetics and DeliverySystems, and a heavy investment inadvanced technologies allowLipotec to be an outstanding globalsupplier of cosmetic activeingredients.

Lipotec has a strong presencethrough a well-connected networkof distributors, subsidiaries andoffices worldwide.


Showa Denko K.K., a Japan-based manufacturer of rawmaterials and ingredients,

announces the official introductionof Ascomate-C™ for the Asia Pacificregion at the upcoming in-cosmetics Asia 2014.

The latest addition to the company'srange of chemical derivatives,Ascomate-C is a vitamin C derivativethat is developed specifically for usein personal care products, and thatexhibits superior stability in aqueoussolutions. Showa Denko's show-case is part of the Japan CountryFocused at the show, which washeld at Bangkok from 4 – 6November 2014.

According to a consumer surveyconducted by Datamonitor in 2013across 24 markets and with over25,000 consumers, 50% ofconsumers in Asia see skinlightening/brightening benefits as anessential feature of skincareproducts. On the other hand, onlyless than a quarter of consumers inWestern Europe and North Americashare the same sentiments.

"As a leading provider of specialtychemical derivatives, Showa Denko

is constantly innovating to developsolutions that address currentconcerns. Vitamin C has provenefficacies in skin whitening but itsinstability makes it difficult to deliverthe optimum dosage for maximumabsorption.

Thus, it is with this focus that wehave developed Ascomate-C, anew vitamin C derivative that exhibitshigh stability in aqueous solutions,"shared Atsushi Shibato, SalesManager, Personal Care MaterialsGroup, Showa Denko K.K. "This isour first official introduction ofAscomate-C to the APAC region,and we hope that it will gatherinterest among manufacturers ofAsian skincare products."

Resistant to heat and oxygen,Ascomate-C is stable in formula-tions, and remains inactive andchemically stable under atmosphericconditions until applied on the skin.Once applied, it can be easilyhydrolyzed by intradermal enzymesto form ascorbic acid for effectivetransdermal delivery.

Due to its high anti-oxidativeproperty, Ascomate-C also showsless decolorization when dissolved,

giving rise to a clearer solution thatmay improve the appearance ofend-product formulations.Ascomate-C has been shown to beeffective for skin brightening, anti-aging, acne care, and hair care, andis applicable to a variety of cosmet-ics products such as moisturizers,sunscreen and shampoos.

Functions of Asocmate-C include:

Whitening and depigmentation, bythe inhibition of melanin synthesisBoosting of collagen synthesis andinhibition of collagen degradationAnti-aging, due to deceleration ofcell aging. UV protection, andprotection of hair cuticles againstchlorine damage, due to its radicalscavenging ability.

In addition to Ascomate-C, ShowaDenko's showcase highlights twoother chemical derivatives – Hi-Carnitine (HLC) and Methyl Hesperi-din. Carnitine is known for its cell-activating properties but on its own,it has low skin permeability due to itshydrophilic nature.

HLC is a new carnitine derivative thatcan effectively penetrate throughskin, and that releases carnitine

Showa Denko at in-cosmetics Asia 2014:to Unveiled a Vitamin C Derivative for Cosmetics

enzymatically. This enhances theintracellular concentration ofcarnitine efficiently, and thusgenerates energy to activate skincells. HLC is particularly suited foranti-aging formulations, and hasbeen shown to combat commonsigns of aging skin, such as finelines, dullness, dryness, and loss ofelasticity.

Hesperidin, or vitamin P, is apolyphenol that is extracted fromthe peels of citrus fruits, and thatpresents anti-oxidative and anti-allergic properties, with improvedblood circulation. The low watersolubility of Hesperidin makes itdifficult to be incorporated intocosmetic formulations. MethylHesperidin, on the other hand, is ahesperidin derivative with high watersolubility properties.

When used in combination withvitamin C, Methyl Hesperidin is ableto enhance the whitening effects ofskin care products, while its anti-glycation effect prevents dullnessand loss of elasticity in skin.Additionally, Methyl Hesperidinpromotes micro-circulation, makingit suitable for use in massage creamsand eye care products.


Natural Sourcing hasannounced the addition ofpremium Organic Virgin

Coconut Oil (INCI: Cocos nucifera(Virgin Coconut) Oil) within itsgrowing line of specialty ingredientsfor use in innovative personal careproduct formulations.

Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is lightand penetrating with excellent shelflife and stability. The aroma is that offresh coconut milk.

It is solid at room temperature andperforms similarly to Kukui, Jojoba,Illipe and Shea Butter. It is creamierwhen stored in warmer tempera-tures and is firmer at coolertemperatures. In countries where it isproduced, it is a food source andhas been found to be the bestsource of monolaurin, a well-knownantiseptic substance found in breastmilk. Natural Sourcing's 100%Organic Virgin Coconut Oil is

obtained from freshly harvestedcoconut meat that has been gratedand then expeller pressed toproduce the coconut milk. This milkis then centrifuged to separate themilk into coconut solids, water andoil.

This separation is so thorough thatthe oil has no moisture left in it topromote rancidity, and the oil doesnot need to undergo any furtherheating to remove moisture.This method yields the finest,creamiest, most flavorful coconut oilpossible.

This unique cold process extractiontakes place within hours of openingthe coconuts, and it conserves all ofthe nutritive, functional componentsof coconuts such as squalene,tocopherols and sterol.

Natural Sourcing Organic VirginCoconut Oil is carefully stored and

packaged to maintain the purity,freshness and beneficial propertiesof this nutritive, virgin oil.

This creamy white to off-white incolored product offersmoisturization and protection. It is anoteworthy Source of Vitamin E andlends oxidative stability to productformulations. It also helps preventevaporation of volatile aromaticcomponents. Organic VirginCoconut Oil is Suitable for thevarious personal care applicationsincluding skin care, hair care, lipcare, massage, cold process soapmaking, aromatherapy, etc.

About Natural Sourcing

Natural Sourcing specializes in theprocurement and supply of over500 natural ingredients forcosmeceutical, spa, massage andaromatherapy applications.Ingredients are carefully selected for

Natural Sourcing Offers Organic Virgin Coconut Oilwith Moisturizing & Protecting Benefits

their quality and functionality in skincare, hair care and beauty treat-ments.Natural Sourcing's ingredient linesconsist of nutritive specialtyingredients including berry oils,organic beeswax, organic sheabutter, pomegranate oil andwatermelon seed oil.

Additionally, Natural Sourcing offersover 25 categories of naturalingredients.

Natural Sourcing is a member of theOrganic Trade Association and hasits organic certification throughCCOF.

Natural Sourcing is dedicatedtowards becoming an increasinglystrong presence in the growingawareness of the importance andbenefits of organic skin care. NaturalSourcing operates a 30,000 squarefoot facility in Oxford, Connecticut.


Smell and Emotion - the Reality and Technology behindFragrance Marketing. Emotion is key to the marketing of somany fragrances. We often hear references to lust, desire and

even envy associated with marketing of fragrances. "These words areliberally sprayed around the fragrance halls of department stores. Butdo people really understand just how critical the sense of smell is toour emotional make up and psychological wellbeing?" asks DuncanBoak, a speaker at the forthcoming IFRA UK Fragrance Forum to beheld on 16th October.

Mr Boak is Founder and Director of Fifth Sense, the first charity forsmell and taste disorder sufferers and himself affected by anosmiafollowing an injury. He and Fifth Sense's members understandperhaps better than anyone just how losing one's sense of smell canaffect life.

Duncan Boak draws on their experiences to illustrate that, as far as thesense of smell is concerned, you really don't know what you havegot until it is gone.

For those fortunate enough to retain their sense of smell, another ofthe speakers will explore the topic of ‘Scent and Technology',reviewing innovations and the fragrance experience.According to Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and PersonalCare Analyst at Mintel, "Over half of European mobile phone usersown a smartphone; however only 6% of consumers are interested inusing a mobile app to determine the right fragrance for them". MsMoeglin will explore just how manufacturers can bring technologyand scent experiences together to bridge the gap. She believes thattechnology devices, digital tools and innovations such as ‘fragrancefrom within' will in future enhance our sensory smell experiences andaffect our moods.

Do you smell what I smell?No-one else knows what your nose knows. According to Dr DarrenLogan, an expert in genetics and the effects of smell, there may bemuch greater diversity between humans than was previously thoughtto be. In fact, there is no ‘true’ smell for any given odour at all. Hesays: “We trust our senses to provide us with information about theworld around us, but is our perception an accurate representation ofour external environment? By studying the genetics and neurobiologyof olfaction, we and others, are discovering remarkable diversityexists in our sense of smell”. Dr Logan will be demonstrating thatgenetic variation in the olfactory system is unusually high when hespeaks at the IFRA UK Fragrance Forum on 16th October.

“This genetic variation contributes to inherent, fixed differences inwhat each individual can smell and can also predict how werespond to odours,” he says. In his talk, he will also present newresearch suggesting the diversity of neurons in our noses –the cellsthat detect odours– also varies significantly between individuals.

Dr Logan adds: “This suggests that we all have very different olfactorysensitivities. We have been charting the neuronal make-up of noses,investigating what controls the neuronal pattern and asking how wemight influence it, with a view to improving olfactory ability andtreating olfactory conditions. Taken together, I would argue that weare all olfactorily unique and that there is no ‘true’ perception of anygiven smell. However, I propose that the complexity of the olfactorysystem may buffer the effect of this variance. The majority of us aretherefore likely to experience a reasonably similar percept of mostfragrances, though notes may subtly differ. In the near future it may befeasible to incorporate genetic information from a target group intothe fragrance production process."

Smell andemotionsDo yousmell whatI smell?


In a difficult economic environment, makeup, which is supported by lowprices and a regular renewal of ranges, resists crisis and is increasinglyappealing to ready-to-wear brands looking for growth opportunities. Etam

is the latest brand to have a try.

Sales of prestige beauty products (brands sold in specialised beauty storesand in department stores) in France declined by 1.5% in value in 2013, aftera drop of 0.9% in 2012. However, while sales of skincare products andfragrances declined by 1.7%, makeup ended the year on steady sales.Furthermore, as sales of makeup products grew by 1% on the first eightmonths of 2014, said the NPD research firm. “In the long term, it is thecategory that progressed the most in the selective perfumery channel,growing by 15% between 2006 and 2013,” says Mathilde Lion, beautyexpert at NPD.

A strong market

According to NPD, sales of prestige makeup products in France areexpected to rise by about 1% in 2014. Make-up sales remain strong despitethe crisis. “The rise is moderate in value, due to the development of lowcost ranges by new players, but sales in volumes are boosted by numerousinnovations and new products," says NDP.

This is the case for mascara brushes or eyebrow gels. While nail polishesbenefited from a widening of ranges and colours driven by new fashiontrends that encouraged repeated purchases from consumers.

In addition, thanks to very low entry-level process, makeup productsbenefits from impulse purchases. “Makeup remains a little and reasonableindulgence that one’s still considers as accessible,” said Ms. Lion.

Finally, the last factor that helps these products resist crisis is that, thanks tomake-up “one’s can buy luxury brands at a reasonable price," she added.

A growth driver for ready-to-wear fashion?

Besides prestige brands, the French make-up market is captured by massmarket brands (L’Oréal Paris ...), and by beauty retailers’ (Sephora, Nocibé ...)and mass market private label brands (Carrefour’s Les Cosmétiques DesignParis, Intermarché’s Labell Paris ...) as well as by the more recent brandslaunched by textile brands such as H&M, Zara, Camaieu or, lately, Etam.

Impacted by consumption cuts made by French consumers, the ready-to-wear market recorded declining sales for six consecutive years, somebrands therefore perceive the makeup market as offering alternative growthopportunities.

Accessories (leather goods, jewellery and beauty) help read-to-wear brandsto recruit new customers, to increase the frequency of store visits and tostimulate additional sales, and therefore to rise the average purchase.

Eventually, “there is still room for new players in the makeup market, asillustrated the recent success of Italian brand Kiko. Clearly, there are marketshares to conquer in France,” in particular in the low cost segment, deemsYves Marin, consumption specialist at Kurt Salmon.

Makeup resists crisis and appeal toready-to-wear brands


Customization Helga Hertsig-Lavocah, Trend Manager atHint Creative Consultancy,

deciphered the agro-food industry,which abounds with concepts thatit seems could be adapted to thecosmetics industry. The democrati-zation of 3D printing offersunprecedented individualizationperspectives. Practises such asadding a dose of actives ortransforming a product through amixture are increasingly used in thetin and drink departments, withlaunches such as Shake Me byWilliam Saurin or Teavana® ShakenIced Teas.

Chrono-cosmetics and naturalharmony

Nature is more than ever animportant source of inspiration. “We

are getting beyond products stuffedwith natural ingredients to turntowards seasonal concepts that canadapt to the skin’s specific needs inspring, summer, autumn, or winter,as can be seen with Dong Fang JiDao or Arimino Mint Shampoo. Inaddition, recovering a healthy,depolluted skin by imitating whatNature does best in this fieldconstitutes a strong quest in Asia,but also in most large citiesthroughout the world. Specificingredients like garlic, detoxifyingmushrooms, or the lotus flower aregetting widely used for theirrenowned depolluting action,”explains Florence Bernardin, thefounder of Info & Inspiration.

Communities revolution

Today’s consumers, and in particular

Beauty & Cosmetics:Four trends to be followed

younger generations, are revolution-izing the buying act. “Womenconsumers look for disinterestedopinions and advice on the Internetbefore they buy. Blogs’ influence onpurchases is stronger than thewomen’s press: up to 23%compared to 7%. The democratiza-tion of the Do It Yourself alsoencourages women to watchtutorial videos and learn how to puton their makeup or do their hair.There are 14 million beauty videoson YouTube, and influential peoplesuch as Michelle Phan gather up to 7million followers, whereas brands,despite a strong presence on themarket, reach only 500,000, at best,”underlines Géraldine Cohen,founder of social shopping websiteThe Beautyst.

In the USA, the NYX makeup brand

reached a turnover of 100 milliondollars in ten years by investingneither in the media, nor inadvertising, nor in offers. It is anexample of success of a pure digitalcompany, and it has just beenbought out by L’Oréal.

Older consumersOn the other hand, womenconsumers are aging: “one womanout of two is now aged 50 ormore,” explains Stéphane Soudillat,of Little Less Conversation. And“86% of them claim they don’tunderstand ads and conclude theymust not be destined for them. Yet,the buying power of this age groupis of 87 euros per year for a facecare product: that’s 15 euros morethan women aged 40-59 and 47euros more than the 25-39 agegroup.”


How technologyis transforming

the cosmeticsindustry

>>>


The cosmetics industry isembracing new technologies,as it attempts to attract a new

wave of digital natives

The rise of online shopping hastransformed the way we buyeverything from groceries to clothes,but when it comes to cosmeticsonline shopping has hit the buffers.This is because consumers still wantthe same 'real-life' experience onlineas they do in-store – they want toknow what a product will look like,or smell like, in order to make adecision.

With 87 per cent of peopleexpected to be shopping onlineand 45 per cent via mobile phonesby 2020, cosmetics companiesneed to use the most advancedtechnology available to introduceproducts to digital consumers.Recent research from the FutureFoundation found that “in-storeexperience needs to work everharder to excite and ‘close the deal’while the customer is on site”.Now two L'Oréal brands havelaunched partnerships withtechnology companies to allowcustomers to use the latesttechnology to help the ‘trial’cosmetics before they buy. YSL haspartnered with Google to enablemake-up artists to show customershow to apply their make-up viadigital technology, while L'Oréal Parishas launched a ‘Make-up GeniusApp’ to allow customers to see

how make-up will look on their faceprior to them buying it.

Both of these initatives are designedto enhance the process of buyingcosmetics, allowing customers toexperience products in a way thatpreviously wasn't possible. Ratherthan attempting to replace theexperience of trying on make-up instore, it adds a new dimension forpeople who want to try a new look.

Developed by L'Oréal in the US,Makeup Genius is a beauty app thatuses facial mapping technology totransform your iPhone or iPad’sfront-facing camera into a virtualmirror where you can 'try on' L'OrealParis products – including eyelinerand lipstick – in real time.The app captures 64 data points onyour face, making it intuitive enoughto discern between the skin of thelips, eyes and other facial contours.This means the virtual makeupmoves with you as you turn yourhead, change your facial expressionand test out new looks at variousangles and lighting conditions.

L'Oréal worked with the team of datascientists from Image Metrics –whose advanced facial mappingtechnology was used in the film TheCurious Case of Benjamin Button –to incorporate a facial mappingalgorithm, which up until this pointhas only been used in Hollywoodand in the gaming industry.

The company's research team tested400 lighting conditions andcaptured 180,000 images ofmakeup application on an array ofphotography devices to make surethat ‘what you see is what you get’for women of all skin tones, and foraccuracy in both natural and artificiallight and at any angle.

"We tested the algorithm on fivedifferent ethnic groups that wechose very strategically to go fromvery light to very dark skin, and thathelped us adapt the algorithm notonly to the lighting conditions butalso to the tone of the skin of theperson that's using the phone," saidGuive Balooch, director of L'Oréal's'Connected Beauty' incubator inCalifornia and creator of the MakeupGenius app. Makeup Genius alsoallows consumers to scan a L’OréalParis product to detect a colourmatch, virtually try on individualproducts or test out curated looksfrom L'Oréal Paris expert makeupartists, and share with friends andfamily on social media.

The app is currently only available oniOS in the US and France, but L'Oréalhopes to roll it out internationallyover the coming months.

Another L’Oréal brand, YSL beaute,has recently launched a partnershipwith Google Glass to allow makeupartists to capture makeup sessionson video from a subjective point ofview and demonstrate application

techniques.

The idea is that YSL makeup artists indepartment stores will use GoogleGlass to film makeover sessions withcustomers. At the end of thesession, they can email the video tothe customer's personal account,along with 'before' and 'after' shots.

The customer can then replay thevideo at home and mimick themakeup artist's techniques torecreate the makeover look. Theycan also view a list of the productsthat the makeup artist used, andorder them online via YSL's onlinestore. "We used to say that luxury ismore than product, it's service. Butthis is even beyond that – it'spersonalised service. The video is agift for the customer. It's a veryconsumer-centric approach," saidStephan Bezy, international generalmanager for YSL beaute.

"Google Glass is such practical toolbecause it leaves the makeup artists'hands free. It's very comfortable andeasy to wear; it looks cool becausethe design is great; and for thecustomer at the end, the video has agreat quality too." YSL makeupartists will start using Google Glass indepartment stores around theworld, including Selfridges in the UK,from mid-October. The companysaid that, as well as enriching theexperience for existing customers,the personalised tutorials shouldhelp to attract a new generation ofyounger women to the brand.


How to Grow Your Hair and Say “Bye Bye” to Short Hairstyles for BlackWomen Using Ayurveda Hair Care

Fast Hair Growth and Natural Hair Care Tips: Use Ayurveda Hair Care toMaximize Hair Growth

It seems like everyone (including this natural hair sister right here) is lookingfor the next big thing that will help them maximize their hair growth. Growingyour mane doesn’t have to be hard, but adopting a hair regimen that variesfrom the typical may be worth a try. Ayurveda hair care might be the thingfor you if you’re seeking long, luscious locks. Many African Americanwomen end up exploring Ayurveda hair care at some point during theirnatural hair journey. And when one educates themselves about itsprinciples, it’s apparent that any one of my natural hair sisters can benefitfrom this. But before you jump on the Ayurveda train, take the first step andeducate yourself. To find out if this method of natural hair care is right foryour mane, you have to understand what it is and how it is meant to workwith you. Never fear, we can help you with that.

Natural Hair Care Tips: Herbal Hair Growth

It’s no secret that natural hair is the ultimate showcase of external beauty.When there is something wrong with your hair (i.e. hair loss, damage) itcreates a concern that seems to match no other. This probably explains whynaturalistas have adopted the term product junkie. Due to a shift in focus ofnatural hair care, beauty and hair health, we’ve gone through pages on theCurly Nikki Hair Care Blog, read hair magazines for black women andsearched the web for potions, concoctions and regimens. Now, is being aproduct junkie necessarily a bad thing? I venture to say not really. We justhave to find what works well with our natural hair types.Not Just Natural Hair Growth, But Growth of Mind and Spirit

You’ve heard of henna, indigo and neem right? These are just a few of theproducts that are used in Ayurveda hair care. The Ayurveda lifestyle issomething that many black women have tested and added to their regimento maximize natural hair growth. Its focus is also on using herbal mixtures andminimally processed oils to develop an all-around healthy appearance andfeel of the hair. But that is not all. Ayurveda is a concept that is over 5,000years old! It’s a system of preventative healthcare and was used in AncientIndia. The method seeks to create a balance between body, mind,

Want Fast Hair Growth? Natural Hair Care Tip:Use Ayurveda to Maximize Hair Growth

emotion, spirit and environment while placing emphasis on the ability of thehuman body to heal itself. Sound a bit voodoo-like huh? Well, when youlook at the overall message in terms of natural hair growth, healthier youequals healthier, longer, natural hair. Get it?

I myself have been dabbling in the Ayurveda hair care regimens (With a fewmodifications of my own). My recent discovery was of the oil Frankincensefrom YoungLiving. I use the essential oil on my scalp for natural hair growthand stimulation, but also understand that it has many benefits for the brain.Frankincense acts as somewhat of a brain foodaiding in clarity of mind andspirit. This is the Ayurveda principle, combining healthy practices that willbalance the body. And I have to say that I’m not disappointed. There areseveral other oils and methods to use.

Ayurveda hair care, and essentially, the lifestyle, is beneficial for thoselooking to maximize natural hair growth.

Ayurveda Bliss!


Not everyone chooses to startall over. I, for one, was notone of them. We’re not

knocking the brave hair sisters whocut it all off. Rock those TWA untilyou can’t no more! But this post ismainly for my natural hair sisters whoare a little bit hesitant when it comesto enduring a “big chop”. One thingis for sure, rocking two textures is abit hard, but transitioning can bemade easy if you know where tostart and what to do.Transitioning Hairstyle that InvolveHeat.

Although this is not my mostrecommended choice of styling, Iwould be lying through my teeth if Isaid I did not use these hairstyleswhen I first began transitioning. Thebest way to hide your line ofdemarcation (The place where thetwo textures meet) is to employ lowheat blow dried styles. I used rollerstyles and a salon grade blow dryer.I would even take a hot comb to myroots from time to time. Like allstraight styles however, it isimportant to ensure hair is protected

from heat and moisturized.

For my natural hair sisters who arestaying away from heat altogether,using roller sets and allowing themto air dry is also a great way tostretch the hair and blend the twodifferent textures. There’s obviouslygoing to be a thinner appearance toyour edges, but curly naturalhairstyles make a world of differ-ence.

Transitioning Hairstyles that are NoDifferent Than Natural Hairstyles

When in doubt, twist it out! Twistouts and other protective hairstylesare ideal. As you’re natural hairbegins to outshine you’re straight-ened tresses, try adopting twistouts, flat twists loose braids andbuns. Synthetic hair use is also afabulous way for my natural hairsisters to hide that transitioning line.

In addition to simply twisting andbraiding, twist outs and braid outsboth stretch the hair but also allowfor fabulous defined waves. When I

Natural Hairstyles for TransitioningWomen

first began transitioning I remember my mom used to do my hair in bantuknots. When they would dry, I would slap on this hideous headband,smoothing down the edges and rock my wavy tresses. Despite theheadband, I would say it was an amazing style, perfect for my transitioninghair.

Whether you choose to do the big chop, or transition like I did, the goal issimple, just do you! Whether you feel like hiding those two textures ormaking them your own, rock your own style how you want to.


The sun, free radicals,

smoking, irritants, and facial

expressions can cause skin

damage. Find out how to fight back.

Our skin is assaulted by everything

from the sun to irritating laundry

detergent and cigarette smoke.

And it can show. Wrinkles, redness,

and even skin cancer can result. But

before you resign yourself to the

aging effects of your environment,

consider the five most common

culprits of skin damage and learn

what you can do to avoid them.

SUN EXPOSURE

The sun is the biggest cause of skin

damage, says Faramarz Samie, MD,

PhD, a dermatologist at Jefferson

University Hospitals in Philadelphia.

The ultraviolet rays of the sun break

down collagen and elastin, which

help keep your skin looking plump

and smooth.

They also affect melanocytes, which

can lead to changes in your skin’s

pigmentation. The aging effects of

the sun eventually show on your

skin as wrinkles, age spots (patches

of brown spots), and possibly skin

cancer.

To avoid the skin damage that can

be caused by the sun, dermatolo-

gists advise staying out of the sun

during the middle of the day when

the sun’s rays are strongest, wearing

protective clothing such as a hat,

and using a broad-spectrum

sunscreen — one that protects

against both types of harmful

ultraviolet rays, UVA and UVB —

with a sun protection factor of 30 or

higher. Don't forget to reapply every

two hours for maximum protection.

Free Radicals

One of the ways the sun damages

your skin is through production of

harmful substances called free

radicals. Free radicals are unstable

oxygen molecules with a single

electron. In short, doctors think that

ultraviolet light from the sun can lead

to damaged DNA and skin damage,

Dr. Samie says. Free radicals may

even play a role in the development

of skin cancer. They are also the

result of exposure to tobacco

products or other factors in the

environment. Some skin care

products contain antioxidants such

as vitamins C and E that help to

lessen the aging effects that free

radicals have on your skin. Eating

plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables,

which contain antioxidants

(especially berries, broccoli, carrots,

and spinach), is also good for

healthy skin.

SMOKING CIGARETTES

Overall, the skin of a smoker isn’t as

healthy and doesn’t heal as well as a

nonsmoker’s skin. It also has a

tendency to wrinkle easily. That’s

because smoking cigarettes causes

all of your blood vessels to

constrict, or get more narrow,

including the vessels that feed the

outer layers of your skin, says J. Greg

Brady, DO, a dermatologist and skin

cancer surgeon at Advanced

Dermatology Associates in

Allentown, Pa.

When you smoke, your skin gets

less of the oxygen and nutrients it

needs to stay healthy, and that leads

to wrinkles. In addition, smoking

causes elastic fibers in the skin to

thicken, which means your skin

won’t snap back into shape as well

and you can experience sagging, Dr.

Brady says. “The more you smoke,

the more likely it is to happen,” he

explains. “If you smoke two packs a

day and you’ve done it for 20 years,

you have a 40-pack history.” The

bigger that number, the more skin

damage you’ll see.

Nicotine gum, inhalers, lozenges,

nasal spray, and patches can all help

you quit, along with prescription

medications such as Zyban

(bupropion), Chantix (varenicline),

Aventyl (nortriptyline), and Catapres

(clonidine). Talk to your doctor

about the best option for you.

IRRITANTS

Chemicals in cleaning products and

laundry detergent can cause red,

irritated skin and allergies in people

who are susceptible, Samie says.

Ammonia and bleaches have a

tendency to irritate skin.

These chemicals may cause contact

dermatitis, which is scaling and

irritation, and sometimes even a

chemical burn. People with more

sensitive skin will experience more

skin irritation than others. There are

also more than 3,000 substances in

our environment that can cause

allergies.

The easiest way to protect your skin

from irritants is to avoid contact,

either by wearing gloves when you

clean or do dishes or by switching

to less irritating products. Also,

moisturizing your skin can help.

Some people may need an

antihistamine or non-steroidal anti-

inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) for

treatment.

SMILES AND FROWNS

It’s a simple fact that as you age your

skin loses its elasticity and doesn’t

snap back into place after you make

facial expressions the way it did

when you were younger, Samie

says. As a result, your skin will show

wrinkles even when you’re not

frowning or laughing.

No one would say to stop living life

or showing expression on your

face, but you can try to combat

aging effects by preventing skin

damage from the sun with sun-

screen.

You might also consider using over-

the-counter or prescription wrinkle

creams or other topical medications

to smooth out the skin.

Also, a host of procedures are

available to reduce wrinkles,

including microdermabrasion,

chemical peels, laser resurfacing,

and injectable fillers such as

collagen.

The aging effects of the environment

can certainly show up in the mirror,

but there’s no reason you can’t fight

back with these strategies.


5 Common Culpritsin Skin Damage<<<


Certain skin conditions can betreated safely at home, whileothers require a specialist's

care. Learn how to tell the differ-ence.

A dermatologist is a doctor whospecializes in the health of your skin,hair, and nails. There may be manyreasons why you need to see adermatologist, but try to haverealistic expectations in making anappointment with one, advisesHeather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, of theUniversity of Miami Cosmetic Center.

After all, she says, not everyskin problem can be resolved.

"Conditions like stretch marks, largepores, and cellulite have treatmentsthat can make them slightly betterbut cannot eliminate them com-pletely," says Dr. Woolery-Lloyd. Shesays success "depends on patientexpectations."

What a Dermatologist DoesThere are many reasons to see adermatologist, including:

Acne. Woolery-Lloyd advises visitinga dermatologist for acne that is notresponding to an over-the-counterskin treatment. A dermatologist candetermine which kind of prescrip-tion skin treatment would be mosteffective for your acne and lifestyle.Skin cancer. A dermatologist canhelp screen you for skin cancer.Recent data suggest that mostpeople don't get their skin checkedannually. An annual body check isespecially important if you are in ahigh-risk group (fair-haired, light-eyed, with more than 40 moles onyour body).

"As dermatologists, we know thatthe early detection of skin cancer byroutine skin examinations is crucial insuccessfully treating [skin cancer],"says Robert S. Kirsner, MD, PhD, vicechairman of dermatology and

cutaneous surgery at the Universityof Miami's Miller School of Medicine.In addition to regular screenings,you should see a dermatologist ifyou notice a change in the shape,size, or coloring of any of yourmoles. A dermatologist can removesome or all of the suspicious tissue,then examine it under a microscopefor cancerous cells. Dermatologistsalso see people who are beingtreated for other cancers andexperience skin side effects due totheir medication.

Eczema. Many people haveeczema, a chronic conditioncharacterized by irritation, itchiness,and flaky patches of skin. Adermatologist can help find ways tomanage your eczema and, ifnecessary, will prescribe medica-tions.

Skin care education. If you areconcerned about minimizing skindamage or caring for aging skin, a

Should You See a Dermatologist?dermatologist can suggest productsor lifestyle changes that reduce yourexposure to damaging elements.Specialized care of skin, hair, andnails. You can talk to a dermatologistabout almost any condition thataffects your appearance. Forexample, warts and psoriasis won'tnecessarily affect long-term health,but they can affect your quality oflife. Both can be treated at thedermatologist's office. Skindiscolorations and stretch marks canalso be improved by a dermatolo-gist..

Treatment of scars. Dermatologistscan offer skin treatments to improvethe look of almost any scar,including acne scars and colloid(raised) scars. A dermatologist mayrefer you to a plastic surgeon forenhanced treatment of some scars,particularly those due to burns.

What to Expect at theDermatologist's Office

A dermatologist's office is much likeany other doctor's office. It helps tobe ready for your appointment.Getting prepared can include:

Checking with your health insuranceplan to find out what services arecovered and whether you need areferral from your primary-careprovider before making an appoint-ment..

Taking all necessary identificationand medical cards with you.

Writing a list of the medicationsand supplements you are taking.

Bringing a list of questions if youhave a concern to discuss.

If you want the doctor to examinethe skin on your face, skip heavycosmetics that day. And rememberthat while some procedures, suchas a full-body skin exam, can beperformed at your appointment,others will require a second or thirdappointment.


Get your beauty sleep! TheZZZs you catch every nightcan have a profound impact

on your skin health. Here's how.

A good night's sleep can meangood skin health because whenyou’re sleep-deprived, your bodymakes more of the stress hormonecortisol. Elevated levels of cortisolcan lead to increased stress andinflammation in the body, hurtingyour skin’s quality.

But the relationship between skinhealth and lack of quality sleep canbe a vicious cycle, especially withconditions like atopic dermatitis oreczema, which can lead toscratching even through the night,recent research published in thejournal Clinics in Dermatologyshowed.

"Poor sleep can lead to increasedstress hormones in the body thatincrease the severity of inflammatoryskin conditions such as acne orpsoriasis,” explains Jessica Krant,MD, MPH, assistant clinical professorof dermatology at SUNY DownstateMedical Center and founder of Artof Dermatology in New York. Thiscan result in increased itching, whichcan disrupt sleep. As the vicious

cycle continues, skin conditions andsleep quality can increasinglyworsen together. In contrast, skinconditions and sleep quality canalso improve together. Getting agood night's sleep will help to clearup skin, which allows sleep toimprove and, in turn, will improveskin health."

Need more convincing? Here are sixreasons why not getting enoughsleep detracts from skin health andyour health in general:

Not enough sleep worsens existingskin conditions. Increased inflamma-tory response shows up asincreased acne breakouts, increasedskin sensitivity, increased allergiccontact dermatitis reactions, andincreased irritant dermatitis — andmore severe conditions mean moretreatment and skin care.

Not enough sleep detracts fromyour skin's natural beauty. Increasedinflammatory cells in the body leadto an increase in the breakdown ofcollagen and hyaluronic acid, themolecules that give the skin its glow,bounce, and translucency.Not enough sleep makes immune-related skin problems worse.Increased inflammation in the body

throws off the body's ability toregulate the immune system, whichleads not only to getting sick moreoften, but also to flares of immune-related skin diseases such aspsoriasis and eczema. Psoriasis isnot just a skin disease; it's also anindicator of body inflammation."Many people with severe psoriasisactually have an increased risk forheart attacks, which is even morereason to keep stress low and getgood quality sleep," Dr. Krant says.Not enough sleep results in lessbeauty. While you're sleeping, thebody's hydration rebalances. Skin isable to recover moisture, whileexcess water in general in the bodyis processed for removal. Notgetting enough sleep results in poorwater balance, leading to puffy bagsunder your eyes and under-eyecircles, as well as dryness and morevisible wrinkles.

Not enough sleep accelerates theaging process. During deep sleep,the rise in growth hormones allowsdamaged cells to become repaired.Without the deeper phases ofsleep, this won't occur, allowingdaily small breakdowns to accumu-late instead of being reversedovernight. This results in morenoticeable signs of aging.

Amazing Reasons to Sleep forSkin Health6

Not enough sleep contributes toweight gain. Sleep also helps withweight management, which is goodfor your skin. Sleep makes you feelless hungry, Krant explains — recentstudies have linked sleep depriva-tion to excess snacking and calorieconsumption.

Getting a Good Night's RestHere are tips from Krant for gettinggood sleep and better skin health:Don't eat a big meal too late in theday.

Drink plenty of water throughoutthe day, but not late at night.

Sleep under a warm blanket in acool, dark, quiet room.

Keep electronics out of thebedroom.

Use breathable cotton sheets andwash them regularly, so they don'tcollect dust mites and bacteria.

Use laundry detergents that don'thave strong fragrances, which canbe irritating to skin.

Getting your beauty sleep isn’t anold cliché — it’s a must for havingskin that glows.


A Guideto NaturalSkin CareProducts

>>>48 |Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2014

While you may think youprefer natural skin care,some natural ingredients

may not work the best on your skin.What should drive your purchase ofskin care products is how well theywork on your skin type.

In today’s world of eco-consciousliving, being good to the environ-ment is a high priority, whetheryou’re buying light bulbs or a creamfor dry skin and wrinkles. Andcosmetics companies takeadvantage of that by offering naturalskin care products with ingredientsthat are touted as being better foryour skin and environmentallyfriendly. “Natural skin care is more ofa marketing term than a scientificone,” says Dee Anna Glaser, MD, adermatologist and professor ofdermatology at St. Louis Universityand president of the CosmeticSurgery Foundation.

Related: 10 Foods for Healthier Skin“Products that have botanicalingredients that come from plants ornature — think honey or beeswax— tend to be labeled as natural,”’says Dr. Glaser. They may or may nothave the same ingredients that otherproducts do. And you can findthem everywhere, from drugstoresto department store makeupcounters to boutiques and even atdermatologists’ and plasticsurgeons’ offices. In fact, so-callednatural skin care products are soubiquitous that it’s hard to tellwhether they’re any better for youthan other products.

“‘Natural’ really doesn’t tell youanything,” Glaser says. “It’s a way ofmarketing [a product] to make youfeel good about its use whenpeople are trying to be green andthink environmentally.”

In some cases, natural skin careproducts may be the way to go, butnot always. “Poison ivy is natural, butthat doesn’t mean you want to rub itagainst your skin,” Glaser says.

The Benefits of Natural Skin CareProducts

There are some ingredients in naturalproducts that are soothing andcalming to the skin, even if your skin

is sensitive. Glaser notes the benefitsof these ingredients:

Soy. Products that contain soy cansoothe the skin while fading darkdiscolorations.

Feverfew. This herb can calmirritated, dry skin that’s prone toeczema.

Antioxidants. Vitamins C and E havereal benefits for the skin. Theyscavenge for free radicals, whichdamage cell DNA, leading towrinkles and skin aging. Unfortu-nately, many over-the-counterproducts don’t have a high enoughconcentration of antioxidants forthem to be effective. But you canbuy products such as CE Ferulic(which contains vitamins C and E)and Revaléskin (made fromcoffeeBerry extract) from a derma-tologist or a plastic surgeon, Glazersays.

Natural Skin Care Concerns

Sometimes natural skin careproducts aren’t the best choicewhen you’re shopping for amoisturizer for dry skin or a cream totreat your wrinkles, Glaser says.Among the drawbacks are:

Sensitive skin irritation. Your skin typeshould dictate the type of productsyou can use, Glaser says. Someonewith rosacea or sensitive skin — andabout half of all women think theyhave sensitive skin — can be irritatedby alpha hydroxy acid and glycolicacid, which are natural ingredients.Allergic reaction. Allergens in naturalskin care products can causeproblems for some people.

Breakouts. Someone who’s acne-prone may not be able to toleratenatural lotions that contain oilsbecause they may clog pores andlead to breakouts.

High cost. You can find expensivetraditional and natural skin careproducts, but in general, natural skincare products tend to be a bit morecostly. An oil-free traditional facecleanser is about $5 for 5.5 ounces,while a natural cleanser that containsbark, chamomile, rosemary, andechinacea costs about $9 for 6

ounces at the drugstore.Related: Celebs With Skin IssuesWhat to Look For in Natural Skin CareProducts

The key to choosing natural skin careproducts is to choose wisely. Whenyou’re shopping for skin care andyou’re considering natural products,keep these things in mind:

The fewer ingredients, the better.When you’re buying any type of skincare product, including naturalproducts, look for one with fewingredients, Glaser says.

Natural skin care products tend tohave extra ingredients added tothem, but the more that’s in it, themore likely it is to cause irritation oran allergic reaction, she says.

Big brands tend to be better. Big

companies such as Neutrogena,Dove, Oil of Olay, Aveeno, Cetaphil,and others test their productsbefore putting them out on themarket, so they’re unlikely to causeskin problems, notes Glaser.Try retinol or retinoids. Retinol, soldover the counter in variousproducts, and retinoids, which areavailable by prescription as tretinoin(Vesanoid) and tazarotene (Avage,Tazorac), are derivatives of vitamin Athat help reduce wrinkles. They’renatural products that really work,Glaser says.

The bottom line is that you shouldchoose products that work for yourskin, gives you results, and have thefeel and fragrance that you enjoy.

It’s a matter of trial and error, saysGlaser “Part of the challenge is tofind ingredients that work for you.”


Acne, blackheads, and oilyskin top the list of teen skincomplaints, says Jessica Wu,

MD, a board-certified dermatologistin Los Angeles who specializes inmedical and cosmetic dermatology.But by following her skin advice, youcan keep your skin healthy andglowing.

The challenges of teen skin aresizable, says Dr. Wu. "Hormonalsurges lead to enlargement of the oilglands, making teen skin oily andcreating large pores and black-heads," she explains.

Even though you and your friendsare going through puberty together,chances are your skin is looking andfeeling a bit different from your BFF's.That means the skin tip that worksfor her might not work for you.Fortunately, you can easily find theright skin advice to choose from tokeep your skin clear.

Here are the top skin tips for teenskin care:

Cleanse carefully. If your skin is oily,you'll probably do well with afoaming or gel cleanser for daily skincare. Cleanse once a day, or twice ifyour skin gets very oily or dirtythroughout the day. "If a teen girlwears makeup, it's best to removeeye makeup first, then cleanse with

your fingertips and a gel or foamingcleanser," Wu says. If you play sportsor work hard in PE class, wash yourface (if you can) before youexercise. At the very least, she says,carry facial tissues to blot your skin.For teens who have dry rather thanoily skin, try a milky cleanser andmoisturizer.

Wash off makeup before bed. Evenif your best friend can sleep with hermakeup on and look great, it's not agreat idea. "If you're simply tooexhausted to tie your hair back, takeoff makeup, and wash your face, atleast use a pre-moistened cleansingwipe to take off makeup, dirt, andoil," Wu says.

If you make a regular habit ofsleeping in makeup, you can havean acne breakout or develop abumpy rash called perioral orperiocular dermatitis.

Control oil. You want to keep downthe shine without being harsh onyour skin. According to Wu, there'sa basic three-step process to oilcontrol: choose a salicylic acidcleanser, use an oil-free primer tocontrol shine, and blot oil during theday using specialized cloths ortissues.

Exfoliate. You need to exfoliate onlyonce or twice a week, using a

relatively gentle product. Don't scrub(it won't help with acne or black-heads) and don't over-exfoliate.Get the right acne products. If youhave breakouts, try this approach:Wash your skin, use a toner, andthen apply a medicated acne gel.Don't share makeup. "Do you wantto share your friend's germs?" Wuasks. "It's an especially bad idea toshare eye and lip products." So, astempting as it is to try your friend'sperfect new eye liner, get your owninstead.

Keep hands clean. One way to helpyour skin stay healthy is to protect itfrom dirt and too many germs. Washyour hands before you touch yourface or touch up your makeup andregularly clean other surfaces thattouch your skin, such as yourphone.

Choose spray hair products. If younotice that your acne breakoutscluster around your hairline or placeswhere your hair often brushes yourskin, consider that your hair productmight be to blame. Make a switch tospray products, which, Wu says,"are less likely to cause breakouts."Skip the toothpaste and other oldwives' tales.

You might hear about many oddremedies to control acne, likeputting toothpaste on your skin. In

Skin Care for Teen Skinfact, this could just make skin worseif you are allergic to the ingredients.There's a ton of great skin careproducts on the market that canhelp you look your best.

Wear sunscreen. You want your skinto look healthy now and fordecades to come. Using sunblockalso helps keep your acnebreakouts from turning dark, Wusays. Pick an oil-free product, andlook for cosmetics, like liquidfoundation, that contain sunscreen.Avoid tanning beds. Get a healthybronze glow with a self-tanner.

Tanning beds and sun tanning canset you up for early wrinkles andincreased skin cancer risk later on.

Talk to a doctor. Seeing a dermatolo-gist about acne can make a hugedifference, especially if you havered, pus-filled pimples or largelumps under the skin that are painfulor leaving scars. "Those can stay withyou for a lifetime," Wu says. Youmight benefit from prescriptioncleansers and acne medication thatcan clear skin faster and moreeffectively than over-the-counterproducts.

Being a teen should be fun. Takecharge of your skin care with thesetips, and soon a clear complexionwill put a smile back on your face.


The right anti-aging productsand treatments can turn backthe clock by erasing signs of

aging, fine lines and wrinkles, andother sun damage.

If you haven't been protecting yourskin, it can start to give away cluesabout your age. Fine lines andwrinkles begin to appear, along withbrown spots and rough skinpatches caused by sun exposure.Your skin might be producing lesscollagen, and dead skin cells don'tflake off imperceptibly anymore. Ifthis sounds like your skin, it's time toturn to anti-aging products andtreatments to slow down, reduce,or even reverse the signs of agingand regain younger-looking skin.

Any skin that's been regularlyexposed to the elements can beexpected to show its age andneeds special care to maintain itsyouthful look, says Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, CEO and medicaldirector of Elite MD, Inc. AdvancedDermatology, Laser, and PlasticSurgery Institute in Danville, Calif.

Your Anti-Aging Action Plan

At-home and doctor's officeprocedures can have a visibleimpact on your complexion, givingyou back younger-looking skin.

Protect your skin. The first rule of

thumb: Prevent the damage. "Thebest thing to do to protect your skinis prevention," Dr. Badreshia-Bansalsays. The sun is enemy number one,so you need to wear sunscreenwith a sun protection factor, or SPF,of 30 or higher whenever you'reoutside. You also should wear long-sleeved shirts and pants. Protectyour face and neck with wide-brimmed hats, your eyes withsunglasses with UV coating. Drynessis enemy number two, making linesseem more noticeable, so choose amoisturizer made for your skin typeand use it regularly to keep skinsupple.

Apply a vitamin A cream. Prescrip-tion-strength, vitamin A–basedtopical gels or creams known asretinoids can reduce wrinkles andproduce younger-looking skin. "Ithelps to build collagen, which canprevent the development of finelines and wrinkles, and to lightendark spots," Badreshia-Bansal says."We also use it to treat acne, and itcan help prevent precancerousgrowths." Prescription retinoidsinclude Retin-A and Renova(tretinoin), Differin (adapalene), andAvage (tazarotene).

Bleach your brown spots. You cantry lightening brown spots (alsocalled age spots) with a bleachingcream that contains hydroquinone."Hydroquinone helps inhibit an

important enzyme in pigmentsynthesis," Badreshia-Bansal explains.Pick up a pentapeptide anti-wrinklecream. These anti-aging creamsstimulate the skin's production ofcollagen and elastin and are found insome drugstore or beauty counterproducts. "You're helping to buildback the support structure that'sbeen lost through aging and sundamage," Badreshia-Bansal says.

Peel to reveal fresher skin. Derma-tologists use various methods toremove the top layer of skin andexpose new skin. These procedurescan help tighten the skin anddiminish fine lines and brown spots."By exfoliating that top layer, you'reallowing the moisturizers and otherproducts we use to penetratedeeper and work better," Badreshia-Bansal says.

Procedures include:

Chemical peel solutions toloosen and slough away thetop layer of skin.

Laser skin resurfacing tovaporize the surface skin.

Microdermabrasion thatsprays tiny particles tostrip away topmost skincells.

Plasma skin regenera-

Steps to Younger-Looking Skin6tion using a stream of ionizednitrogen gas to heat the skin andcause the top layer of cells to flakeaway.

Consider Botox. Injections ofbotulinum toxin have becometremendously popular as an anti-aging therapy. The injections relaxthe muscles under the skin and caneliminate deep lines and wrinklesaround the face. Botox treatmentsalso can help prevent new wrinklesfrom appearing.

You have many options available tocreate younger-looking skin. Factorsincluding cost and the recovery timeassociated with procedures likepeels will help you decide on yourbest course of action.


Protecting and caring for yourskin are the best anti-agingtreatments for a younger

looking complexion.

Are you tired of waging a waragainst wrinkles? Scott Gerrish, MD,of Gerrish and Associates, PC, anon-surgical skin care specialist withoffices in Virginia and Marylandstates, “Don’t give up yet. There aresteps you can take to lessen andeven reverse one of the biggestsigns of aging: wrinkles.”

Simple and Smart Skin Care Steps toReduce Wrinkles

Avoid sun exposure. Try to wearwhite or light colors, and wear a hatwhen you’re outdoors. Also, don’tuse tanning booths, which can beworse than the sun.

Wear sunscreen. For the best anti-aging protection, Dr. Gerrish stronglyrecommends, “Apply sunscreenwith at least an SPF 15 (sunprotection factor) thirty minutesbefore sun exposure to protect

your skin from harmful UVA and UVBrays. Look for one with zinc ortitanium oxide in the ingredient list.”

Avoid environmental pollutants.Ozone, smoke, and gasoline fumesare just a few of the pollutants thatcan age skin and cause prematurewrinkles. Start an anti-aging skin careprogram. June Breiner, MD, aninternist in Maryland suggests,“Consult with a non-surgical skincare doctor. There are manyproducts available that thicken yourskin and reduce wrinkles.”

Avoid smoking and second-handsmoke. Smoking takes away oxygenand nutrients, and it also increasesthe number of free radicals in yourbody’s cells, a main cause of skinaging. “The amount of cigaretteconsumption and the number ofyears you have smoked arecorrelated with an increase inpremature wrinkles,” states Dr.Breiner. Wear sunglasses. Other thanstaying indoors and away fromwindows, sunglasses are the bestway to protect the thin, sensitive

skin around your eyes from UVradiation.

Sleep on your back, if possible.Sleeping with your face pressedagainst the pillow can cause sleeplines, which can turn into wrinkles.Satin pillow cases can also help inthe anti-wrinkle fight.

Use moisturizer. A good moisturizerwill keep skin hydrated and softenwrinkles. Exercise regularly. “It getsyour cardiovascular system going,which is great for getting needednutrients and oxygen to your skin,”Breiner explains. “You should getcardiovascular exercise for yourheart and skin health, and weightstrengthening exercises for muscleunderlying your skin.”

Eat a nutritious, anti-aging diet. Drinkplenty of water and teas, and geteight to ten servings daily of fruitsand vegetables. Eat fresh caughtAtlantic salmon three times a weekor another fish high in omega 3 fattyacids, such as herring, mackerel,trout, or tuna. Foods have a

tremendous ability to fight the agingprocess as they are chock full ofantioxidants, vitamins, and mineralsthat your body needs to combatwrinkles, says Breiner.

Avoid processed and refined foodsand sugars. They contain chemicalsthat can cause your skin to ageprematurely. Try Retin-A or Renova.Gerrish recommends, “See yourdoctor for a prescription of Retin-A,a cream that has been proven toreduce fine lines and wrinkles, andthicken thinning skin, which is partof the aging process.”

If your skin is very dry, ask aboutRenova, a gentler formulation of theanti wrinkle cream.

Avoid stress. When you’re stressed

out, your body releases a powerful

aging hormone, cortisol, into your

blood stream. “If you have chronic

stress, take yoga, write in a journal

daily, sing, take a walk, meditate. Do

whatever works for you to reduce

stress,” suggests Gerrish.

Best anti-aging treatmentsfor a younger looking complexion.


bfw nov-dec 2014

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