B GREWING UIDEFor Superior Beers, Wines & Spirits

Unit 17, 70 Roberts St. (between Main & Freeway)

Phone: (08) 9444 0468 Fax: (08) 9444 0560

Osborne Park 6017PO Box 148 Osborne Park WA 6917

www.westbrew.com.auEmail info@westbrew.com.au

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Copyright © West Brew Distributors Pty Ltd 2003

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted inany form of by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,

recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, withoutprior permission in writing from the publisher.

1. Make sure all equipment has been cleaned and sterilized. Rinse with fresh water.Please note: No requirement to rinse if using .

2. After removing the yeast sachet from the top of can, stand the can in hot water to softenthe contents (wort).

3. Add 1-2 litres of boiling water (4 litres in winter) to fermenter and add contents of can.Stir to dissolve and rinse out can with additional hot water.

4. Stir in BREWING SUGAR (dextrose or brew blends) until dissolved. Top fermenter up to22.5 litres with cold water.

5. Check the temperature of the liquid is between 23 - 27 C, sprinkle yeast and stir into the brew.

6. Wet the 'O' Ring and seal the fermenter by screwing the lid on firmly.

7. At this stage remember to take a hydrometer reading (original gravity) as thiswill allow the % of alcohol to be calculated. Note this reading in a log book.

8. Fill the airlock with water and carefully twist into the grommet in the lid. Place the redcap on the airlock.

will commence within 12 - 24 hours. The airlock will begin to bubble. In hotweather your brew may take 3 - 7 days. In cooler weather it will take longer. When bubblingthrough the airlock slows down, take a hydrometer reading (Ref. page 4). For winter brewing a

Brewcraft Electric Heater Pad is recommended. The ideal temperature for fermentation is 24 C.

SAFE hydrometer (specific gravity) readings for bottling are:

Beer & Cider 1006

Stout 1010

West Brew Brew Blends 1010 - 1014

Converter Kits 1010 - 1012

At these readings your brew is ready to bottle.

If the specific gravity remains higher for a number of days shakethe fermenter to help the fermentation. In the case of thehydrometer reading not dropping to the above levels reduce thebottling dextrose (or sugar) and this will enable the product to bebottled safely.

MSB No Rinse Sterilizer

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(Ref. page 4)

West Brew

FERMENTATION

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Brewing Quality Beer

BOTTLING

A

SERVING

ADDITIONAL HINTS

Clean and sterilize the bottles with Pink Sterilizer and rinse in cold water. Use a brewer'smeasuring spoon to add the priming sugar, carefully scoop the dextrose into the spoon and tapthe end to level the dextrose off.

... Revolutionary bottle primingadditive to ensure accurate speedy measurement.

Fill each bottle to the top using the Rapid Bottler. When removed thiswill leave the correct air space, (Approx. 4Omm). Cap with a crown sealand shake the bottle to dissolve the priming sugar.

Leave to mature a minimum of 3 weeks. Longer maturation willimprove results. We suggest 6 - 8 weeks for optimum flavour.

The storage and taste success of homebrew beer is based upon a smallamount of sediment in each bottle. This naturally carbonates the beerand preserves it. The best results for serving is to pour a chilled beer firstinto a chilled jug leaving the sediment in the bottle. If a jug isunavailable pour the whole bottle into more than one glass withouttipping the bottle back. This will avoid stirring up the sediment.

1. To produce a lower alcohol beer, use a half bag of dextrose for fermentation. The flavour isstill retained.

2. DON'T refrigerate your brew until it has matured and is ready for drinking.

3. Enjoy your homebrew in moderation.

4. Beware of lightweight beer bottles. Hammer cappersshould never be used on these bottles.

5. When cleaning equipment remove the 0'ring from the lidand tap from the bottom. Equipment should never besoaked in sterilizer for long periods.

6. To freshen your fermenter after brewing stouts, MagicMixers or Soft drinks, sprinkle the inside of the fermenterwith bicarbonate of soda and add water to make a paste.Use a soft cloth to wipe the paste around the inside of thefermenter.

Rinse with fresh water.

mounts to add Castor Sugar Dextrose

Carbonation Drops

330 ml / small scoop 1 x small scoop

375 ml 1 x small scoop ¾ x large scoop640 ml or 680 ml ¾ x large scoop 1 x large scoop750 ml 1 x large scoop 1½ x large scoop1250 ml P.E.T. 2 x large scoop 3 x large scoop

2

3

Bottle Tree

Super Auto Bench Capper

USE OF A HYDROMETER

To achieve consistent results with your beer, wine, liqueur or Magic Mixer, a hydrometer mustalways be used.

Run some of the product off into the test jar. The first amount will be full of sediment, discardthis sample, as it will give incorrect readings.

Take a sample of brew from the tap and fill the test jar to a level to allow the hydrometer tofloat freely and not touch the bottom. Place the hydrometer in the sample and spin it todislodge any bubbles. Make sure the hydrometer doesn't stick to the sides as this can affectthe reading.

The true reading is taken by drawing an imaginary line across the flat surfaces of the liquid asseen in Diagram 2.

SAFE hydrometer (specific gravity) readings for bottling are:

Beer & Cider 1006

Stout 1010

West Brew Brew Blends 1010 - 1014

West Brew Kit Converters 1010 - 1012

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

10

1-000

Read the scale across flat surfaces.The correct reading is 1.006

Spin the hydrometer toensure it floats freely

Note: To calibrate your hydrometer float in ordinary tap water (20 C). It will float at 1000.If it floats, for example, at 1002 the difference of 002 will be constant right up the scale.

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If bottling isn't your thing and you still want to enjoythe great taste of home brew, why not try keggingyour brew.

For a small investment you can still enjoy havinggreat beer 'on tap' for around half the cost of normalbeers.

You will need to have a fridge large enough to standyou kegs in and be able to pass a gas line throughthe wall of the fridge.

The standard procedure of preparing andfermenting your brew remains the same. Once yourbrew has fermented, transfer your brew into a cleankeg, place the keg into your fridge and allow to coolfor 2-3 days. During this time your beer will beconditioned and carbonated using CO .2

You are now ready to enjoy the full benefits of having yourown beer 'on tap'.

For more detailed instructions on how to enjoy this great ideawhy not ask the staff at your specialist home brew shop orrefer to 'The Basics of Kit Brewing' by Jeff Rodham.

Keg System(supplied with either afridge tap or beer gun)

Keg Systems

Making Fine Wine

1) Carefully syphon wine into aclean, sanitised carboy.Leave the sediment behind.This may leave a space atthe top of the carboy. Donot top up at this stage.

2) Attach airlock and bung tocarboy. Remember to fillairlock halfway with water.

3) Leave carboy infermentation area for further10 days. NO tests arerequired during this time.

Sanitise all of your equipment with a chlorinated detergent and rinse thoroughly with hot water.

1) Add two litres of warm water to the bottom of your sanitised primary fermenter. Stir thewater vigorously and slowly sprinkle the contents of package 1 (bentonite) onto the surface.Stir for 30 seconds to ensure even dispersal and to break up any clumps.

2) Carefully remove the cap from the large foil bag and empty the contents into the primaryfermenter with the bentonite solution. Add 4.5 litres of warm water to the bag to rinse outany remaining juice, and add it to the fermenter.

3) If your wine kit contains oak or elderflowers, add them to the primary fermenter now.

4) Top up fermenter to the 23 litre mark with cool water. Stir vigorously for 30 seconds.

5) Check specific gravity. It should read between 1.070 and 1.080.

6) Ensure that the temperature of the juice is between 18 - 24 C. Sprinkle the yeast onto thesurface and gently stir in.

7) Cover the primary fermenter and place in an area with a temperature of 18 - 24 C.Fermentation should start within 24 - 48 hours.

8) Take and record daily readings of specific gravity and temperature.

After 5 - 7 days the specific gravity will be 1.010 or less. You must rack the wine into a carboy at thistime. (Note: the lower your fermenting temperature, the longer it will take to reach this stage).

STAGE 1 - PRIMARY FERMENTATION

STAGE 2 - SECONDARY FERMENTATION

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STAGE 3 - STERILISING

STAGE 4 - CLARIFICATION & BOTTLING

After 10 days check your specific gravity. It should be 0.996 or less. Verify stable gravity bychecking again the next day. If the gravity has changed, leave the wine until the reading is stableon two consecutive days. If you do not verify this reading, your wine may not clear properly.

1 ) Dissolve contents of package 2 (metabisulphite) and package 3 (sorbate) in 125 ml (1/2 cup)of coo1 water. Add to carboy and stir very vigorously for 2 minutes to disperse the stabilisersand drive off CO2.

IF YOUR KIT CONTAINS A SMALLER FOIL BAG (F-PACK)

1. To ensure sufficient room in your carboy for the contents of the pack, remove 500 ml(two cups) of wine. Reserve this to top up carboy in Step 3.

11. Shake the foil bag, carefully remove the cap, and pour contents into the carboy. Stirvigorously for 60 seconds. Your gravity will now read between 0.998 and 1.007depending on the style of the kit.

2) Shake contents of package 4 (chitosan or isinglass). Carefully cut open the corner of thepouch and pour contents into carboy. Stir vigorously for 2 minutes to drive off CO .

(Note: your wine may not clear if this stirring is skipped).

3) Top up carboy to within 5 - 13 cm of the neck. Use cool water or reserved wine from theF-Pack addition, if available. Ensure airlock is filled halfway with water and re-attach bungand airlock. Allow your wine 8 days to clarify.

1) After 8 days, check your wine for clarity by drawing a small sample into a wineglass andexamining it in good light. if it is not completely clear, leave the carboy for another 7 days.Do not bottle cloudy wine - it will not clear in the bottle.

2) If you wish to filter your wine, please contact your local retailer for instructions.

Note. If you will be ageing your wine for more than 6 months, you will need to add extrametabisulphite to prevent oxidation. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of metabisulphite powder in125 ml (1/2 cup) cool water and stir into wine before bottling.

3) Syphon your wine into clean,sanitised bottles and sealwith a good quality cork.Leave bottles upright for threedays before lying them ontheir sides.

Your wine will benefit greatlyfrom 3 months bottle age.

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Light

Sunlight and ultraviolet light are as bad for wine as excessive heat, but the problems areusually much easier to overcome. Though most wines are protected by coloured glass bottles,place wines in areas away from light or cover them with a blanket.

Humidity

Movement

Some degree of humidity is beneficial to ensure that the exposed end of the cork does not dryout and allow in oxygen. Thus, beware air conditioners that suck moisture out of the air.Ideally, relative humidity should be between 60 - 75%.

Wine does not take well to constant movement and vibration, particularly if there is sedimentpresent, thus a secure storage space is necessary. Secure storage should also mean storingbottles horizontally, allowing constant contact of the wine with the cork and preventing it fromdrying out and letting air in.

A simple check of all environmental influences in or near your storage area is advised. Areassuch as garages or attics, which seem cool, may be subject to temperature fluctuations due tolack of insulation. A good option is to insulate a small room, large cupboard or area under thestairs, void of any heat sources like a water pipe or a boiler. Following up with preventativemaintenance is also useful, like keeping a resident thermometer on hand and checking itregularly.

Allowing for the ageing of your finished wine in an environment which helps to preserve itsfiner qualities will pay big dividends in ensuring that you will have the best wine possible toenjoy with friends and family.

STORAGE

Storage plays a big role in the ageing process andcan make or break a finished wine. Generally, whitewines, sweet wines and champagne above all, aremore frail than reds. Grape variety can also make adifference. For example, Cabernet Sauvignon winesare generally more resilient than Pinot Noirs.However, always minimise the risks involved in bottlestorage, heat, light, lack of humidity and constantmovement.

Temperature

The ideal cellar temperature is 7 - 13 C. Wines can bestored up to 20 C but note that wine matures muchmore rapidly at higher temperatures. At lowertemperatures, slower maturation allows morecomplexity to develop. Constant temperature is thekey - chronic fluctuations should be avoided.

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Distillation and Making Spirits(NZ Only)

Spirit and Liqueur making by distillation.

2nd Step - Distillation.

3rd Step - Filtration.

4th Step - Mixing the spirit to the right strength.

The following is a brief description of the process followed by full instructions for differentTurbo and Still combinations including Alcobase.

There are five steps to making your own spirits and liqueurs by distillation. We have listed thesteps in basic form first then expanded the descriptions. The distilling instructions below areavailable in the three most common forms. If you are unsure of a word used then please referto the glossary.

Here is a quick outline for making spirits and liqueurs by distillation.

Make the alcohol by mixing sugar and water and then adding a Still Spirits Turbo, which is amixture of yeast and yeast food (nutrients). The yeast will convert the sugar to alcohol by aprocess known as fermentation. There is a variety of Turbo yeasts to use that will suit yourclimate and conditions.

Add the fermented mixture to a still. These are sold in some countries as Water Purifiers.The alcohol is then boiled off and the first portion is separated and discarded before collectingthe potable (or drinkable) alcohol. We have separated out the instructions into threedifferent categories.

Filter the alcohol with the Still Spirits Z Filter unit. Thisinvolves running the spirit through a column of carbonmixture that removes any unwanted tastes and smellsand utilises a filter paper to prevent the carbon frompassing into the finished spirit.

Water the spirit down to the desired drinking strength bytesting with a Still Spirits Spirit hydrometer (alcometer).Also learn about several additions you can make toimprove or change your spirit.

Once you have made the base spirit you can make manydifferent drinks from the same batch of spirit. There is afull range of Still Spirits Spirit or Liqueur essences.

lst Step - Fermentation.

5th Step - Mixing the flavours.

Super Reflux Still

Glossary

Airlock

Body

Distilling

Fermentation

Fermenter

Head

Pot Still

Reflux Still

Sterilisation

Wash

Yeast

DISTILLATION

Some terms you should know before we start;

A device to allow air out of the fermenter but prevent bugs and oxygen.

The distillate or condensed steam collected from the still.

The process where the alcohol is boiled off from the wash and the steam iscollected and condensed back to liquid.

The process that takes place when the yeast uses the sugar to make thealcohol.

The container that you use to mix up the wash.

The first distillate or condensed steam from the still which can containundesirable elements.

A simple still where everything that boils is collected and condensed.

A more complex still with a chamber called the reflux condenser, where thesteam is filtered and some of the unwanted elements are returned to theboiling vessel. This results in purer, stronger alcohol.

The process of cleaning and sanitising equipment before use.

The mix of water, sugar, yeast and nutrients that you will ferment to make thealcoholic base for distilling.

An organism which converts the sugary wash to alcohol.

A still (short for distillation unit) is a device that separates a mixture of 2 or more differentliquids into their individual components. For example, it will take a mixture of oil and waterand separate the oil out of the water. Other common uses are the separation of petrol fromcrude oil and the separation of alcohol from a fermented liquor that contains alcohol andwater. We will use the alcohol/water mixture to explain this process below.

Distillation works when the mixed liquids will boil at different boiling temperatures. Waterboils at 100 C, ethanol (the alcohol we drink) boils at about 80 C.

If a mixture of water and ethanol is heated, it will start to boil at around 80 C. In fact, it is onlythe ethanol that is boiling, not the water. This means the steam that is rising is mainlyethanol. When this happens in a still, the ethanol steam is cooled so it turns back into liquidform and it is collected outside the still. While this is happening, most of the water staysbehind in the still which means that the ethanol has been separated from the water.

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BASIC COMPONENTS AND HOW THEY WORK

TYPES OF STILL

POT STILL

REFLUX STILL

Stills have two basic components. A boiler to make the steam and a condenser to cool thesteam and collect the alcohol. Condensers are cooled by cold tap water running through tubesand cooling jackets around the condenser steam chambers.

The boiler constantly boils the liquid mixture (which is called the 'wash') to provide steam orvapour for the condenser. The vapour that is boiled off actually contains a mix of alcohol andwater. This is due to the fact that some water evaporates while the alcohol is boiling. Theamount of water in the vapour changes as the distillation proceeds. In the early stages ofboiling a wash, the vapour is mainly alcohol with a little water. During the later stages of thedistillation, the water content increases. This means the alcohol collected early will bestronger than the alcohol collected towards the end of distillation.

The condenser then cools the vapour thus turning it back into liquid, which drips out a draintube to be collected. The boiler and the condenser need to be balanced so the rate of boilingmatches the cooling capacity of the condenser.

The temperature of the wash also changes during distillation. When there is plenty of alcoholin the wash, it will start boiling just below 80 C. As the process proceeds and the alcohol isremoved, the boiling temperature starts to go up. This increase in temperature will continueuntil the last bit of alcohol comes off at about 93 C. At this point there is no alcohol left in theboiler but it does contain most of the original water. The process is now finished and the stillturned off.

There are two basic types of condenser. Pot and Reflux. A pot condenser collects all the vapourand converts it to liquid. A reflux condenser is actually made up of two condensers, the firstone, the reflux condenser, removes impurities and water from the vapour before the vapourpasses through to the second condenser where it is cooled and collected.

This unit has a simple pot still fitted where all the vapour that is generated by the boilercollected and condensed back to liquid. It produces a low strength spirit which will containsome impurities that may influence the taste of the spirit. It needs to be stressed that theseimpurities are not dangerous if the wash has been produced using Still Spirits ingredients asdescribed in the distilling instructions. The spirit collected is suitable for all types liqueursand spirits where mixes are used.

This unit has a simple reflux condenser. Before the spirit is condensed by the main condenser,it passes through a small reflux condenser that is jacketed with cooling water. The vapour isforced to come in contact with the surfaces of this condenser, and some of the heavier vapoursincluding water vapour are condensed and returned to the boiler. Only the lighter vapours,with a higher boiling point make it through the reflux condenser to be condensed andcollected by the main condenser.

As a result, the spirit collected by this type of condenser ishigher in alcohol strength than a pot still, and contains lessby-products. The spirit collected is suitable for all types of spiritsand liqueurs.

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SUPER REFLUX STILL

This unit has a complex reflux condenser. This condenser contains ceramic saddles whichprovide the ideal surface for condensation. These are housed in a jacketed condenser withcooling water circulating around the condenser. This creates a controlled temperatureenvironment where the vapour comes into contact with the ceramic saddles and bounces fromone to the other as it makes its way through the condenser. As a result, the vapour comes intocontact with a huge surface area so that it is repeatedly treated before passing through to becondensed and collected by the main condenser. Consequently the spirit coated by this type ofcondenser is even higher in alcohol strength than either the pot still or our standard reflux stilland contains even fewer by-products. The spirit collected is ideal for all types of spirits andliqueurs and produces a spirit even more suitable for producing gin, vodka and other delicatespirits that are drunk neat or with little to mask the flavour of the spirit

Although 5 litre distillation units are available and legal for the purpose of water purifyingand essential oil manufacture, turning your alcobase/turbo yeast fermentations into spiritvia distillation is illegal under Australian law.

Australian Customs Notice No 97/98

Section 10/11/11a

• Amaretto• Apricot Brandy• Black Sambucca• Blue Curacao• Butterscotch Cream• Cafelua• Cappucino• Cherry Brandy• Chocolate Mint

• Coconut Rum• Coffee Maria• Creme De Cacao• Creme De Menthe• Dictine• Dry Vermouth• Hazelnut• Irish Cream• Italiano• Macadamia Nut• Mango Liqueur• Melon Liqueur• Orange Brandy• Parfait Amour• Red Sambuca

• Rum Liqueur• Skyebuie• Southern Smooth• Swiss Choc Almond• Triple Sec• White Sambuca• Apple Schnapps• Banana Schnapps• Blackberry Schnapps• Butterscotch Schnapps• Peach Schnapps• Pear Schnapps• Pineapple Schnapps• Strawberry Schnapps

Top Shelf LiqueursTM(makes 1.25 litres)

• Bourbon• Citrus Vodka• Dark Rum• Distillers Caramel• English Gin• French Brandy• Jamaican Dark Rum• Kentucky Bourbon

• Mellow Oak• Ouzo• Rye Whisky• Scotch Whisky• Smokey Malt• Tequila• Vodka• White Rum

Top Shelf SpiritsTM(makes 2.25 litres)

• Blended Whisky• Bourbon• Brandy• Dark Rum• Gin

• London Dry Gin• Whisky• White Rum

Still SpiritsTM(makes 5 litres)

• American Bourbon• Brandy• Calypso Rum• Cognac• Gin

• Jamaican Dark Rum• Navy Dark Rum• Qld Gold Rum• Tennessee Bourbon• Whisky

Top Shelf ClassicsTM(makes 2.25 litres)

Spirit and Liqueur Flavours

Beers, Spirits, Liqueurs and Wines are all easy to make.You can get everything you need to make your own

unique drinks at home from us.

You will be absolutely delighted with the drinks youmake with our ingredients, recommendations and advice

or we will cheerfully refund your money in full.

You also get our unbeatable guarantee:

And you will benefit from:

Free consultations to help you make your

favourite drinks taste as good as possible

Expert advice to solve any brewing problem

from West Brew accredited outlets

Recipes and information leaflets

Testing and appraisal service

R.R.P. $3.50