Bhutan in Winter: 19 – 25 February 2015 Samtengang Mountain Trekking Expedition

The Himalayan Range

Only one word befits this three-day, two-night Samtengang Mountain trekking that I did

recently: BREATHTAKING! You can almost touch the freshness of the mountain

breeze and feel its morning shower mist on your face.

Accompanied by three friends, a qualified Bhutanese guide and an assistant helper, we

set off one early afternoon with uncertain expectations of what awaited us in the next

three days, especially when it has been ions since I did any form of camping.

“Life is a Journey, Not a Destination” – I reflected on this quote as I started the trek with

a light heart but loaded anticipation.

The party at the start of our trek – fresh and enthusiastic

Meandering river flowing through the mountains

Admittedly this trail is not for the meek or weak or the weary. Some parts of the paths

were narrow and some trails hugged the edge of a cliff or ravine – one bad mishap and

one could easily plunge into no-man’s land.

However, the splendor of the Himalayan mountain ranges has this soothing effect on

you. It sweeps away your worries and concerns and distracts you from the chore and

breathlessness as we trekked on an upward incline to first base camp, approximately

1,980m above sea level. The other upside is the winter weather – we were fortunate

that it was hovering around 18⁰ C so we needn’t worry about flies, leeches or any other

irritating creatures that could interfere with the enjoyment of the trek.

We were also privileged that our guide relieved us ladies off our backpacks so that our

trekking was made more enjoyable and manageable. We could therefore conserve and

focus our energy on the upward climb and the estimated five-hour journey to first base.

Being winter, the trail was filled with pile over pile of fallen dry leaves that camouflaged

the trail and made the going more slippery. But “when the going gets tough, the tough

gets going” – that was our uplifting motto.

The sun’s rays breaking through the clouds Young pine cones to admire along the trail

The majestic landscape was a prime motivator for us to continue with enthusiastic zest

He saw red! but fortunately he was a she.

We reached our first campsite at 1,980m above sea level, amidst a cloudless sky and

strong cold winds which made the evening close to freezing point. We were thrilled that

the handlers were speedy and efficient in setting up our sleeping tents as we were more

than ready to call it a night as soon as we were done with dinner. It may be our chef, it

may be that we were famished, but the dinner served in the dining tent was delicious –

simple fuss-free dishes yet flavourful.

All hands on deck! Do you think they were really helping?!!

Our potty – better than open and bare! Aaaah … comfort at last

Our sleeping accommodation comprised a mat, a sleeping bag and a fleece blanket to

keep us warm through the night. If not for the enjoyable but strenuous trek, we would

not have slept a wink. Fortunately no curious creatures came to check us out either.

This experience of roughing it out and sleeping out of the norm made me pause and

reflect about the comforts of life and the many good things life has to offer.

Divine breakfast outdoors with a bonfire

The following morning, we were pampered with another simple meal of cereal, toast and

scrambled eggs downed by a choice of refreshing hot coffee, tea or milk accompanied

by a bonfire made from dried woods and pine cones collected from the surrounding

area. Simple living quarters complemented with simple dining – we can’t ask for

anything more pleasurable and we were content.

Men-in-waiting against a clear blue sky morning

After the hearty breakfast, we were prepared for anything … or so we thought.

The second day’s trekking was the most memorable AND it was also the most

challenging. It was up, up and more ups with heavier foliage to overcome. We felt as if

a personal trainer with a commando background was putting us to the test. There were

frequent loud inhaling of breaths and controlled groans as we ascent this seemingly

unending mountain trail.

Heavy foliage provided shade but caused some spills along the way

Serene and misty morning over the valleys Making the best of a “muddy” situation

But we were treated to ah-ha moments of pine foliage, aging oak trees that seemed to

have a story to tell and a bountiful of bright red rhododendrons.

Rhododendrons in full splendour Our guide leapt high to pluck this beauty for us

After four hours of what seemed like a never-ending hike, we reached a nice plateau

for a much-deserved lunch break. Anybody who needed to surrender to nature’s call

had to contend with an off-the-beaten-path area to do it. Fortunately outside of some

mooing cows, there were not much wild creatures in sight to freak you out in the midst

of whatever you had to do.

Lunch was a spread of rice complemented with meat and vegetable dishes served out

of tiffins. These were carried on the backpack of our assistant guide. You can imagine

what a load off his shoulders it was by then! But he never complained, he was just

happy to chew on his betel nut quid - his choice of dessert, after this hearty meal.

Yam cha and tiffin-packed rice lunch!

We certainly would have loved a little siesta after such a scrumptious lunch. But we had

to make a move as we needed to accomplish our second campsite before dark.

A more gradual gradient toward Camp Site 2

On this day trekking was a myriad of trails with downward, upward, twisted, mud paths

and fallen logs, which called for alertness and forewarnings from individuals in front of

you. Thank goodness for a scrumptious breakfast and energy trail mix to start the day!

A flowing stream to soak your feet in if you dare – it was freaking cold!

Along the way, we chanced upon an archery game at play

A team doing a song and dance when their team mate hit the target, 400m away

Our second night at a lower altitude - 1,550m, within the vicinity of the holy Cyprus tree.

The holy Cyprus tree Our bedding for two

The following morning, after another satisfying breakfast, we continued our descent.

Although it was our third and final day of trekking, our lead guide, Pema effortlessly and

diligently continued to familiarize us with Bhutan’s natural habitat.

An amla fruit. Very tart when you bite it but turns sweet with water in your mouth.

A break to enjoy the majestic view of the meandering dirt path roads

Lemon Grass growing wild in abundance

A typical farmhouse. Rocks on the zinc roof to prevent it from flying off in strong winds.

Friendly farmhouse dogs that accompanied us since base camp overlooking the terrain

The finished line – V for VICTORY!

We ended the trek with mixed emotions - happy that we completed the 54km trek with

minor scraps but sad that it had come to an end

On a rating of 1 – 5, we would give it a 4.8 for the friendly and hospitable service; going

beyond the call of duty; and for the overall trekking experience.

I end this journal with this visual “quiz” – Can you spot the face of Buddha?

Kaadinchey la! (Thank You)