TEAPOT QUILT

BIRDHOUSE QUILT

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Vintage Teapot Quilt (teal version) This is the perfect quilt to have on display when friends drop by for a cup of tea. Three different teapot blocks in pretty prints sit on bunting-edged shelves. A fresh solid fabric is used for the background and this sky teal colour contrasts beautifully with the pictorial blocks. There’s also a pretty fern green version of this quilt. Materials • Fabric 1: ½yd (50cm) – Bonnie red (100143) • Fabric 2: ½yd (50cm) – Nancy red (100144) • Fabric 3: ½yd (50cm) – Billy Jo red (100142) • Fabric 4: ⅜yd (40cm) – Shirley teal (100151) • Fabric 5: ⅜yd (40cm) – Shirly dove white (100148) • Fabric 6: ⅜yd (40cm) – Medium Dots red (130027) • Fabric 7: ⅜yd (40cm) – Shirly red (100145) • Fabric 8: ⅜yd (40cm) – Nancy teal (100152) • Fabric 9: ⅛yd (15cm) – Pen Stripe light blue (130032) • Fabric 10: ¼yd (25cm) – Tiny Star light blue (130038) • Fabric 11: ⅜yd (40cm) – Crisscross light blue (130041) • Fabric 12: ¼yd (25cm) – Paint Dots light blue (130035) • Fabric 13: ¼yd (25cm) – Tiny Dots light blue (130047) • Fabric 14: ⅛yd (15cm) – Dotty Dots light blue (130044) • Fabric 15: 3⅜yd (3m) – Solid sky teal (120023) • Backing fabric 3½yd (3.2m) • Wadding (batting) 60in x 82in (152.5cm x 208.5cm) • Binding fabric ½yd (50cm) – Pearls yellow (130022) • Removable fabric marker • Piecing and quilting threads • Quilter’s ruler, rotary cutter and mat Fabric note: Where a long eighth or long quarter of a yard is given in the Materials list you could use fat eighths and fat quarters instead. A fat eighth is assumed to be approx. 10½in x 18in (26.7cm x 45.7cm) and a fat quarter approx. 21in x 18in (53.3cm x 45.7cm). Finished Size 52in x 74in (132cm x 188cm) Notes • Fabric quantities given are based on a usable width of 42in (107cm). • Measurements are in imperial inches with metric conversions in brackets – use only one

system throughout (preferably imperial). • Press all fabrics before use. • Use ¼in (6mm) seams unless otherwise instructed. • Read all the instructions through before you start.

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Preparation and Cutting Out 1 This quilt is made up of three different teapot blocks – Block 1 (in two different colourways), Block 2 (in four different colourways) and Block 3 (in two different colourways). The teapots are arranged in rows, separate by narrow sashing strips. Narrow rows of flying geese blocks are used like bunting between the teapot rows. The fabrics used are shown in Fig A and the quilt layout in Fig B. The different colourways for the teapot blocks are shown in Fig C. Fig A Fabric swatches (sky teal quilt)

Fig B Quilt layout

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Fig C Block colourways Numbers indicate fabrics (see Fig A) Make 3 of each block

2 For the print fabrics for the teapot blocks, follow the exact measurements for cutting out the pieces for each block in Fig D, Fig E and Fig F. Seam allowances are included in these measurements.

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3 All of the teapot blocks use the solid sky teal Fabric 15 as a background, so there are many pieces to cut. You could cut these now if desired, putting them in labelled piles. However, you might find it easier to cut the pieces as you make each block. Use the cut sizes given in Fig D, Fig E and Fig F. The shapes are squares and rectangles, so cut the fabric in strips across the width and then sub-cut into the sizes needed. 4 For the Fabric 15 vertical sashing strips cut thirty 1¼in x 10½in (3.2cm x 26.7cm). 5 For the flying geese blocks cut 182 squares 2½in (6.4cm) from Fabric 15. 6 For the flying geese blocks cut 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) rectangles (ninety-one in total) from the following print fabrics. • Fabric 1 – sixteen rectangles. • Fabric 2 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 3 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 4 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 5 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 6 – nine rectangles. • Fabric 7 – nine rectangles. • Fabric 8 – nine rectangles. 7 Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Sew together along the long side. Press the seam open and trim to a piece about 60in x 82in (152.5cm x 208.5cm). 8 From the binding fabric cut seven strips 2½in (6.4cm) x width of fabric. Sew together end to end and press seams open. Press in half along the length, wrong sides together. Fig D Layout and cutting for Block 1

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Fig E Layout and cutting for Block 2

Fig F Layout and cutting for Block 3

Making a Block 1 Teapot 9 Each Block 1 is made the same way, but in two different colourways (see Fig C). Block 1A is described in detail here. Fig D shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 10 Follow Fig G for sewing the spout. Create a triangle on a corner as follows. On the wrong side of a c square mark a diagonal line. Place the square right sides together with piece b, matching the top edges. Sew along the marked diagonal. Trim excess fabric ¼in (6mm) away from the sewn line and press the corner outwards. Repeat this process with piece d and two e squares.

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11 Now sew units b/c together with unit d/e/e. Take this pieced unit and add the two rectangle pieces a to the top and bottom, and press. Set aside for the moment. Fig G Sewing the Block 1 spout

12 Follow Fig H for sewing the lid. Sew pieces g, h and g together in a row and press. Add piece i to the bottom of the unit. Now sew piece f to the left-hand side of the unit and piece j to the right-hand side, and press. Set the unit aside for the moment. Fig H Sewing the Block 1 lid

13 Follow Fig I for sewing the teapot body and handle. Sew pieces k and l together and press (Fig I 1). Sew pieces n and o together and press (Fig I 2). Take unit k/l and on the wrong side use an erasable marker to mark the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance all round. On this unit, also mark a diagonal line that goes from corner to corner of the seam allowance (not the outer corners of the shape). On the right side of piece m mark the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance. On piece m, mark a dot 2¼in (5.7cm) away from the top right-hand edge of the fabric, as shown on Fig I 3. Mark another dot at the bottom right-hand side, on the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance corner. 14 Place unit k/l right sides together with piece m, angling the narrow unit as shown in the diagram, so the dots match up at the top and bottom. Pin in place and then sew along the marked diagonal line (you can sew to the edges of the fabric). Trim excess fabric ¼in (6mm) away from the sewn line and then press the triangle outwards. To complete the body and handle, sew unit n/o to the right-hand side. Fig I Sewing the Block 1 body and handle

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15 To assemble the block follow Fig J. Sew the lid section to the body section and press. Now add the spout section and press. The block should be 10in x 10½in (25.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage. 16 Make three of Block 1A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 1B – see Fig C for the fabrics used. Fig J Assembling Block 1

Making a Block 2 Teapot 17 Each Block 2 is made the same way, but in four different colourways (see Fig C). Block 2A is described in detail here. Fig E shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 18 For the spout, use pieces b, c, d, e and f, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Steps 10–11).

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19 For the lid, use pieces g, h, i and j, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Step 12). 20 For the teapot body following Fig K. Take piece k and four l squares and create triangle corners on the larger piece, using the same technique described for Block 1 (Step 10). For the base of the body, sew two m pieces to the sides of an n piece. Press and then sew this to the bottom of the body. Fig K Sewing a Block 2 body

21 To make the handle follow the sequence shown in Fig L. Start by sewing the two q pieces to the top and bottom of the p piece. Press and then add piece r to the right-hand side of the unit (Fig L 1). The corners s and then t are created using the same technique described for Block 1 (Step 10) – follow Fig L 2 and Fig L 3. Finally, add piece o to the top of the handle and piece u to the bottom and press (Fig L 4). Fig L Sewing a Block 2 handle

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22 To assemble the block follow Fig M. Sew the spout section and the handle section to the body section and press. Add the long strip of piece a to the top of the block. The block should be 14in x 10½in (35.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage. 23 Make three of Block 2A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 2B, 2C and 2D – see Fig C for the fabrics used. Fig M Assembling Block 2

Making a Block 3 Teapot 24 Each Block 3 is made the same way, but in two different colourways (see Fig C). Block 3A is described in detail here. Fig F shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 25 For the spout, use pieces a, b, c, d, e and f, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Steps 10–11). 26 For the lid, use pieces g, h, i and j, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Step 12). 27 For the teapot body and base use pieces k, l, m and n, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 2 teapot (Step 20). 28 For the handle, use pieces o, p, q, r, s, t and u, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 2 teapot (Step 21). 29 To assemble the block follow Fig N. Sew the lid section to the body section and press. Now add the spout section and the handle section and press. The block should be 12in x 10½in (30.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage.

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30 Make three of Block 3A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 3B – see Fig C for the fabrics used.

Fig N Assembling Block 3

Making the Flying Geese Rows 31 There are seven rows of flying geese units in the quilt – Row 1 is repeated four times and Row 2 repeated three times. Use print fabrics 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8. Each of the flying geese units is made the same way, using the same technique that you used in Block 1 to create the corner triangles. For each unit, use one 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) rectangle of print fabric and two 2½in (6.4cm) squares of solid Fabric 15. Follow Fig O for the stages of sewing. Each unit needs to be 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) unfinished. Make a total of ninety-one units, in the following fabric combinations: • Fabrics 1 and 15 – make sixteen units.• Fabrics 2 and 15 – make twelve units.• Fabrics 3 and 15 – make twelve units.• Fabrics 4 and 15 – make twelve units.• Fabrics 5 and 15 – make twelve units.• Fabrics 6 and 15 – make nine units.• Fabrics 7 and 15 – make nine units.• Fabrics 8 and 15 – make nine units.

Fig O Making a flying geese unit

32 Lay out the flying geese in the order shown in Fig P. Note that there are four different units – Unit 1A and 1B, and Unit 2A and 2B. Sew the units together as in the diagram. Repeat the process to make the number of units stated.

Fig P Sewing the bunting units Numbers indicate fabrics used

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33 Now sew the units together into Row 1 and Row 2, as shown in Fig Q. Repeat, so you have four of Row 1 and three of Row 2.

Fig Q Sewing the bunting rows together

Assembling the Quilt 34 Lay out the first row of teapot blocks as in Fig R. Arrange the 1¼in x 10½in (3.2cm x 26.7cm) vertical sashing pieces in between the blocks and at the ends of the row. Sew the row together. Now follow Fig B carefully to sew the rest of the rows, changing the positions of the teapot blocks as shown.

35 When all of the teapot rows are sewn, sew the flying geese rows between each teapot row, and at the top and bottom of the quilt. Ease the rows to fit together neatly, pinning well. Start with flying geese Row 1 at the top, then Row 2 and alternate as shown in Fig B. Press to finish.

Fig R Sewing a teapot row together

Quilting and Finishing 36 If you are quilting the quilt yourself you now need to make a quilt sandwich – you can do this in various ways, as follows.

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• Use large stitches to tack a grid through the layers of the quilt in both directions, withlines about 4in (10cm) apart.

• Use pins or safety pins to fix the layers together.• Use fabric glue, sprayed onto the wadding to fix the layers together.If you are sending the quilt off to be commercially long-arm quilted you won’t need to makea sandwich, as this is done when the quilt is mounted on the machine. When the layers of thequilt are secured you can quilt as desired.

37 Use the prepared double-fold binding strip to bind your quilt. Sew the binding to the quilt by pinning the raw edge of the folded binding against the raw edge of the quilt. Don’t start at a corner. Using a ¼in (6mm) seam, sew the binding in place, starting at least 6in (15.2cm) away from the end of the binding. Sew to within a ¼in (6mm) of a corner and stop. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding upwards, creating a mitred corner. Hold this in place, fold the binding back down and pin it in place. Begin sewing the ¼in (6mm) seam again from the top of the folded binding to within ¼in (6mm) of the next corner and then repeat the folding process. Do this on all corners. Leave a 6in (15.2cm) ‘tail’ of unsewn binding at the end.

38 To join the two ends of the binding, open up the beginning and end of the binding tails, lay them flat and fold the ends back so the two ends touch. Mark these folds by creasing or with pins – this is where your seam needs to be. Open out the binding and sew the pieces together at these creases. Trim off excess fabric and press the seam. Re-fold the binding and finish stitching it in place on the front of the quilt.

39 With the quilt right side up, use a medium-hot iron to press the binding outwards all round. Now begin to turn the binding over to the back of the quilt, pinning it in place. Use matching sewing thread and tiny stitches to slipstitch the binding in place all round, creating neat mitres at each corner. Press the binding and your beautiful quilt is finished.

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Vintage Teapot Quilt (green version) Celebrate teatime in style with this charming quilt that you will never get tired of. Three different teapot blocks in pretty prints sit on bunting-edged shelves. A lovely fern green solid background fabric allows the blocks to take centre stage blocks. There’s also a fresh teal version of this quilt. Materials • Fabric 1: ½yd (50cm) – Bonnie red (100143) • Fabric 2: ½yd (50cm) – Billy Jo blue (100158) • Fabric 3: ½yd (50cm) – Billy Jo red (100142) • Fabric 4: ⅜yd (40cm) – Shirley teal (100151) • Fabric 5: ⅜yd (40cm) – Shirly dove white (100148) • Fabric 6: ⅜yd (40cm) – Bonnie mustard (100149) • Fabric 7: ⅜yd (40cm) – Sue dove white (100154) • Fabric 8: ⅜yd (40cm) – Nancy teal (100152) • Fabric 9: ⅛yd (15cm) – Pen Stripe light blue (130032) • Fabric 10: ¼yd (25cm) – Tiny Star light blue (130038) • Fabric 11: ⅜yd (40cm) – Crisscross light blue (130041) • Fabric 12: ¼yd (25cm) – Paint Dots light blue (130035) • Fabric 13: ¼yd (25cm) – Tiny Dots light blue (130047) • Fabric 14: ⅛yd (15cm) – Dotty Dots light blue (130044) • Fabric 15: 3⅜yd (3m) – Solid fern green (120025) • Backing fabric 3½yd (3.2m) • Wadding (batting) 60in x 82in (152.5cm x 208.5cm) • Binding fabric ½yd (50cm) – Pearls yellow (130022) • Removable fabric marker • Piecing and quilting threads • Quilter’s ruler, rotary cutter and mat Fabric note: Where a long eighth or long quarter of a yard is given in the Materials list you could use fat eighths and fat quarters instead. A fat eighth is assumed to be approx. 10½in x 18in (26.7cm x 45.7cm) and a fat quarter approx. 21in x 18in (53.3cm x 45.7cm). Finished Size 52in x 74in (132cm x 188cm) Notes • Fabric quantities given are based on a usable width of 42in (107cm). • Measurements are in imperial inches with metric conversions in brackets – use only one

system throughout (preferably imperial). • Press all fabrics before use. • Use ¼in (6mm) seams unless otherwise instructed. • Read all the instructions through before you start.

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Preparation and Cutting Out 1 This quilt is made up of three different teapot blocks – Block 1 (in two different colourways), Block 2 (in four different colourways) and Block 3 (in two different colourways). The teapots are arranged in rows, separate by narrow sashing strips. Narrow rows of flying geese blocks are used like bunting between the teapot rows. The fabrics used are shown in Fig A and the quilt layout in Fig B. The different colourways for the teapot blocks are shown in Fig C. Fig A Fabric swatches (fern green quilt)

Fig B Quilt layout

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Fig C Block colourways Numbers indicate fabrics (see Fig A) Make 3 of each block

2 For the print fabrics for the teapot blocks, follow the exact measurements for cutting out the pieces for each block in Fig D, Fig E and Fig F. Seam allowances are included in these measurements.

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3 All of the teapot blocks use the solid fern green Fabric 15 as a background, so there are many pieces to cut. You could cut these now if desired, putting them in labelled piles. However, you might find it easier to cut the pieces as you make each block. Use the cut sizes given in Fig D, Fig E and Fig F. The shapes are squares and rectangles, so cut the fabric in strips across the width and then sub-cut into the sizes needed. 4 For the Fabric 15 vertical sashing strips cut thirty 1¼in x 10½in (3.2cm x 26.7cm). 5 For the flying geese blocks cut 182 squares 2½in (6.4cm) from Fabric 15. 6 For the flying geese blocks cut 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) rectangles (ninety-one in total) from the following print fabrics. • Fabric 1 – sixteen rectangles. • Fabric 2 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 3 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 4 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 5 – twelve rectangles. • Fabric 6 – nine rectangles. • Fabric 7 – nine rectangles. • Fabric 8 – nine rectangles. 7 Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Sew together along the long side. Press the seam open and trim to a piece about 60in x 82in (152.5cm x 208.5cm). 8 From the binding fabric cut seven strips 2½in (6.4cm) x width of fabric. Sew together end to end and press seams open. Press in half along the length, wrong sides together. Fig D Layout and cutting for Block 1

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Fig E Layout and cutting for Block 2

Fig F Layout and cutting for Block 3

Making a Block 1 Teapot 9 Each Block 1 is made the same way, but in two different colourways (see Fig C). Block 1A is described in detail here. Fig D shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 10 Follow Fig G for sewing the spout. Create a triangle on a corner as follows. On the wrong side of a c square mark a diagonal line. Place the square right sides together with piece b, matching the top edges. Sew along the marked diagonal. Trim excess fabric ¼in (6mm) away from the sewn line and press the corner outwards. Repeat this process with piece d and two e squares.

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11 Now sew units b/c together with unit d/e/e. Take this pieced unit and add the two rectangle pieces a to the top and bottom, and press. Set aside for the moment. Fig G Sewing the Block 1 spout

12 Follow Fig H for sewing the lid. Sew pieces g, h and g together in a row and press. Add piece i to the bottom of the unit. Now sew piece f to the left-hand side of the unit and piece j to the right-hand side, and press. Set the unit aside for the moment. Fig H Sewing the Block 1 lid

13 Follow Fig I for sewing the teapot body and handle. Sew pieces k and l together and press (Fig I 1). Sew pieces n and o together and press (Fig I 2). Take unit k/l and on the wrong side use an erasable marker to mark the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance all round. On this unit, also mark a diagonal line that goes from corner to corner of the seam allowance (not the outer corners of the shape). On the right side of piece m mark the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance. On piece m, mark a dot 2¼in (5.7cm) away from the top right-hand edge of the fabric, as shown on Fig I 3. Mark another dot at the bottom right-hand side, on the ¼in (6mm) seam allowance corner. 14 Place unit k/l right sides together with piece m, angling the narrow unit as shown in the diagram, so the dots match up at the top and bottom. Pin in place and then sew along the marked diagonal line (you can sew to the edges of the fabric). Trim excess fabric ¼in (6mm) away from the sewn line and then press the triangle outwards. To complete the body and handle, sew unit n/o to the right-hand side. Fig I Sewing the Block 1 body and handle

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15 To assemble the block follow Fig J. Sew the lid section to the body section and press. Now add the spout section and press. The block should be 10in x 10½in (25.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage. 16 Make three of Block 1A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 1B – see Fig C for the fabrics used. Fig J Assembling Block 1

Making a Block 2 Teapot 17 Each Block 2 is made the same way, but in four different colourways (see Fig C). Block 2A is described in detail here. Fig E shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating

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the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 18 For the spout, use pieces b, c, d, e and f, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Steps 10–11). 19 For the lid, use pieces g, h, i and j, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Step 12). 20 For the teapot body following Fig K. Take piece k and four l squares and create triangle corners on the larger piece, using the same technique described for Block 1 (Step 10). For the base of the body, sew two m pieces to the sides of an n piece. Press and then sew this to the bottom of the body. Fig K Sewing a Block 2 body

21 To make the handle follow the sequence shown in Fig L. Start by sewing the two q pieces to the top and bottom of the p piece. Press and then add piece r to the right-hand side of the unit (Fig L 1). The corners s and then t are created using the same technique described for Block 1 (Step 10) – follow Fig L 2 and Fig L 3. Finally, add piece o to the top of the handle and piece u to the bottom and press (Fig L 4). Fig L Sewing a Block 2 handle

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22 To assemble the block follow Fig M. Sew the spout section and the handle section to the body section and press. Add the long strip of piece a to the top of the block. The block should be 14in x 10½in (35.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage. 23 Make three of Block 2A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 2B, 2C and 2D – see Fig C for the fabrics used. Fig M Assembling Block 2

Making a Block 3 Teapot 24 Each Block 3 is made the same way, but in two different colourways (see Fig C). Block 3A is described in detail here. Fig F shows the layout of the block, with the letters indicating the cut sizes of the fabric pieces. When you have cut all the pieces for one block, lay them out in the different sections of the block as best you can. 25 For the spout, use pieces a, b, c, d, e and f, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Steps 10–11). 26 For the lid, use pieces g, h, i and j, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 1 teapot (Step 12). 27 For the teapot body and base use pieces k, l, m and n, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 2 teapot (Step 20). 28 For the handle, use pieces o, p, q, r, s, t and u, and follow the same basic process as described in the Block 2 teapot (Step 21). 29 To assemble the block follow Fig N. Sew the lid section to the body section and press. Now add the spout section and the handle section and press. The block should be 12in x 10½in (30.5cm x 26.7cm) at this stage. 30 Make three of Block 3A like this in total. Repeat the process and change fabrics to sew three of Block 3B – see Fig C for the fabrics used. Fig N Assembling Block 3

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Making the Flying Geese Rows 31 There are seven rows of flying geese units in the quilt – Row 1 is repeated four times and Row 2 repeated three times. Use print fabrics 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8. Each of the flying geese units is made the same way, using the same technique that you used in Block 1 to create the corner triangles. For each unit, use one 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) rectangle of print fabric and two 2½in (6.4cm) squares of solid Fabric 15. Follow Fig O for the stages of sewing. Each unit needs to be 4½in x 2½in (11.4cm x 6.4cm) unfinished. Make a total of ninety-one units, in the following fabric combinations: • Fabrics 1 and 15 – make sixteen units. • Fabrics 2 and 15 – make twelve units. • Fabrics 3 and 15 – make twelve units. • Fabrics 4 and 15 – make twelve units. • Fabrics 5 and 15 – make twelve units. • Fabrics 6 and 15 – make nine units. • Fabrics 7 and 15 – make nine units. • Fabrics 8 and 15 – make nine units. Fig O Making a flying geese unit

32 Lay out the flying geese in the order shown in Fig P. Note that there are four different units – Unit 1A and 1B, and Unit 2A and 2B. Sew the units together as in the diagram. Repeat the process to make the number of units stated. Fig P Sewing the bunting units Numbers indicate fabrics used

33 Now sew the units together into Row 1 and Row 2, as shown in Fig Q. Repeat, so you have four of Row 1 and three of Row 2.

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Fig Q Sewing the bunting rows together

Assembling the Quilt 34 Lay out the first row of teapot blocks as in Fig R. Arrange the 1¼in x 10½in (3.2cm x 37.6cm) vertical sashing pieces in between the blocks and at the ends of the row. Sew the row together. Now follow Fig B carefully to sew the rest of the rows, changing the positions of the teapot blocks as shown. 35 When all of the teacup rows are sewn, sew the flying geese rows between each teacup row, and at the top and bottom of the quilt. Ease the rows to fit together neatly, pinning well. Start with flying geese Row 1 at the top, then Row 2 and alternate as shown in Fig B. Press to finish. Fig R Sewing a teapot row together

Quilting and Finishing 36 If you are quilting the quilt yourself you now need to make a quilt sandwich – you can do this in various ways, as follows. • Use large stitches to tack a grid through the layers of the quilt in both directions, with

lines about 4in (10cm) apart. • Use pins or safety pins to fix the layers together. • Use fabric glue, sprayed onto the wadding to fix the layers together. If you are sending the quilt off to be commercially long-arm quilted you won’t need to make a sandwich, as this is done when the quilt is mounted on the machine. When the layers of the quilt are secured you can quilt as desired. 37 Use the prepared double-fold binding strip to bind your quilt. Sew the binding to the quilt by pinning the raw edge of the folded binding against the raw edge of the quilt. Don’t start at a corner. Using a ¼in (6mm) seam, sew the binding in place, starting at least 6in (15.2cm) away from the end of the binding. Sew to within a ¼in (6mm) of a corner and stop. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding upwards, creating a mitred corner. Hold this in place, fold the binding back down and pin it in place. Begin sewing the ¼in (6mm) seam again from the top of the folded binding to within ¼in (6mm) of the next corner and then repeat the folding process. Do this on all corners. Leave a 6in (15.2cm) ‘tail’ of unsewn binding at the end. 38 To join the two ends of the binding, open up the beginning and end of the binding tails, lay them flat and fold the ends back so the two ends touch. Mark these folds by creasing or

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with pins – this is where your seam needs to be. Open out the binding and sew the pieces together at these creases. Trim off excess fabric and press the seam. Re-fold the binding and finish stitching it in place on the front of the quilt. 39 With the quilt right side up, use a medium-hot iron to press the binding outwards all round. Now begin to turn the binding over to the back of the quilt, pinning it in place. Use matching sewing thread and tiny stitches to slipstitch the binding in place all round, creating neat mitres at each corner. Press the binding and your beautiful quilt is finished.