blackgobbo6-10

8/13/2019 BlackGobbo6-10

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Making a Forest for Wargaming

By Jeremy Vetock

Sometimes the older and more experienced a wargamer you are, the more you take some of the most basic elements for granted. Thehumble wargames forest is just such a thing. e longbeards of gaming talk of large, liftoff canopies and hand!built, wire!frame trees forwhich it can take weeks to perfect a single trunk, but we spend precious little time discussing some of the most common features. "tabletop forest is just one such oft!neglected item. This short!but!informati#e article is all about some simple, fast ways to get a forest orwooded glade onto your tabletop.

A Few Lone Trees Does Not a Forest Make"ren$t all those trees the same% &ot in wargaming. 'one trees, or those placed with other terrain pieces, like alongside a building or atop a hill, offer co#er for snipers or single models, andmay slightly alter how a s(uad or unit might maneu#er. )owe#er, they are really &*T much of an addition to a wargame. These single trees won$t slow mo#ement, can$t hide or co#ermany troops and are more about the #isually pleasing side of gaming, or the aesthetics of it all. e think playing on great looking tables is what most gamers want, and a (uick!but!nicelooking +and realistic forest would be common in all the main -ames orkshop games arhammer, arhammer /0,000, and The 'ord of The 1ings.

The Green DepthsThe forest or small glade is no more than a grouping of trees. 2or you aesthetic types yes, it will make your gaming area look cooler, but more importantly, the forest can add #ast tacticalchallenges to your game. 3t can be the perfect spot from which to launch ambushes, hide from superior foes, take co#er from withering enemy fire, or secure or anchor a flank +after all,most troops will slow down when forced to mo#e through a forest.

3n arhammer /0,000, troops cannot see or shoot through more than 45 of woodland. 3n arhammer, it is 65, and in The 'ord of The 1ings, the woods will likewise ser#e as excellentco#er. 7#en semi!exposed models will benefit from the In the Wayrule. &o matter the game, there is something mar#elous about #isuali8ing a model shooting and then ducking back intothe gloom of the woods. &o wargaming terrain collection is complete without some great looking woods to use for a game, whether it is an 7ldar raid on some prime#al world or arampaging band of Beastmen storming out to o#erwhelm soldiers of the 7mpire.

So why do so few e#er get around to making a wood, or use really crummy alternati#es% 9aybe you$re more interested in gaming than other hobby aspects, but for t he lo#e of Sigmar, youcan do better than a pile of twigs and a green sponge. )ere are some (uick and easy suggestions on making a forest that will actually aid any type of wargaming you might try.

Making a Base for Your ForestThe easiest way to make a forest is to simply gather up all your trees into a group and agree with your opponent that this area is a glade or forest. "ll well and good, but problemsin#ariably arise. "t which point do troops begin to take a mo#ement penalty% )ow many inches into the forest is a matter of great concern to arhammer and arhammer /0,000 players,because it will determine whether line of sight can be drawn and if models may fire in or out. This becomes all too difficult to determine without some line of demarcation. "fter all, trees canbe mo#ed, small outlines of sand or lichen will be bumped as s(uads and units race into positions. " forest with a base is a good looking, well organi8ed, and wargame!friendly answer.

Some players will glue their trees onto the basic base to make a forest, and this looks great. )owe#er, such a terrain piece can become #ery fiddly when itcomes to a wargame. 3t is hard to maneu#er models where they ought to go under the confines of t he boughs. *ur suggestion is to NOTglue the trees tothe base, but rather just group them on top of the base. The forest, including the edges, is clearly defined for wargaming purposes and the indi#idual treesmay be mo#ed to accommodate large units or e#en close combat should it arise. "nd besides all that, a base with loose trees can make the table lookbetter, too.

Step ne Step Two Step Three Fight!

:o#er hardboard +9asonite in sand and prime it black+much like a large miniature base.

;rybrush with :itadel paints and flock the base withstatic grass.

*nce the base is finished, you can place your treeson it as you see fit.

" unit of Skinks uses the foliage to its ad#antage whenfaced with -oblin deathsing a pencil, push the point into the bottom of a 5cliff5 and then pull the point up through the putty at a /L degree angle. ?ou won$t need a lotof pressure. 'et the point of the pencil do all the work.

Step -3nsert plastic tubes into the center of each stalagmite base. These tubes will ser#e as armatures for later applications of putty to stick to. 3f they are not used, high stalagmites may collapse orbend as they dry.

3 used Flastruct, 4./mm styrene tubing +at @.KL a bag. &ow, let the putty set for 6/ hours.

Step .&ow that the putty base has hardened, the actual stalagmite can be sculpted. >sing more putty, push the compound around each post and work it into shape with your fingertips. 2irst, roll theputty into a rough ball. Then, position it o#er the top of the plastic tube and, using your fingers, pull the putty down around the plastic tube. The putty should only stand as high as the armatureto assure that it doesn$t sag while drying.

Step # ith wet fingers, smooth the putty and add details as described in Step Ab. *nce you$re satisfied, use the pencil to add more details
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Step : *nce e#erything is dry, flock the piece with sand in small patches. "llow areas of 9asonite to show through. 9ost ca#e floors ha#e some smooth spots due to water erosion or accumulatedlimestone. The sand is supposed to imitate gra#el and other sediment left by the passage of water.

Step ; Frime the entire piece with Skull hite Spray Frimer.

Ne


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hen the Stalagmite pieces are dry get some spackling and work up the edges where they meet the base. ?ou are aiming to make a smooth slope around the Stalagmites. 'et thespackling dry before proceeding.

*nce the built up base is dry, paint the Stalagmites with a textured paint. *nce the texture paint is dry, paint o#er the Stalagmites with watered down white glue to help seal thetexture onto the model. 2inally, flock the base of the Stalagmites with sand and make sure you lea#e the textured areas clear.

&ow paint the Stalagmites with 3ce Blue and then lea#e it to dry. ;rybrush a basecoat of Skull hite o#er this. 3t should gi#e you the two!tone effect that you see on Stalagmites inca#es. *f course, you can change the basecoat to any color you see f it for any range of effects.

2rom start to finish this project took about an hour to build. 1emember you can change the basecoat to any color you wish for extra effects ! yellows, blues and green will all workwell.
http://us.games-workshop.com/games/warhammer/skirmish/terrain/stalagmite/images/sta5b.jpg


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By Ty 2inocchiaro

The onder :utter is among one of the most useful terrain modeling tools a#ailable to the -ames orkshop hobbyist. 3t allows you to create hills, rocks, and other cool scenery from pinkinsulation foam with ease. "ll by itself, the foam doesn$t look like much, but when you use the onder :utter on it, you transform the material into useful terrain for just about any gamesystem. This article is here to pro#ide you with a 5starter course5 on using this #aluable tool. "fter running through each project here, you$ll be a #eritable whi8 with the onder :utter, andyou can begin to try complex new designs. )owe#er, before you del#e into one of the projects listed in the na#igation at the bottom of the page, let$s ha#e look at the onder :utter itself.

9ow Do You Assem/*e It?The onder :utter is a relati#ely simple, battery powered de#ice. "ll you need are two ; batteries to supply the juice necessary for operation. There are fi#e parts to the cutter batteries,spring, cap, cutting wire, and main body. 2or your safety, make sure you don$t insert the batteries until the de#ice is assembled.

To assemble the de#ice, wrap and knot the cutting wire around the metal connecting loop in the main body, then pull the wire taut around the metal arm abo#e the loop. The metal arm hasa small niche for the cutting wire to rest in. >se this to your ad#antage as you pull the wire taut. *nce the cutting wire is tight +but not too tight, or it will snap, wrap the excess wire around

and around the metal arm to keep it taut. 2inally, twist the last bit of wire into a knot to secure it upon the metal arm. Slap two ; batteries in the main body, followed by the spring, and twiston the cap to complete the circuit. Switch the metal tab to 5*&5 when you are ready to cut some foam.

9ow Does It Work?This awesome hobby tool harnesses the power of two ; batteries that heat the wire through good old electrical resistance. *nce hot +which only takes seconds, the wire slices throughfoam 5like butta$.5 This de#ice allows you to cut with an ease and precision not possible with a hobby knife +which tends to shred the foam while cutting. 3t also creates interesting texturesand shapes that look complex, but are done with a simple use of the wire.

Is It 9ar' to 8se?The onder :utter is a snap to use. *nce you get the hang of it, you$ll be shocked by the amount of cool terrain +like the stuff pictured here you can pump out in minutes. Simply guidethe cutting wire along, and it smoothly cuts through the foam. There is really nothing to it. There are a few safety issues associated with this tool that should be addressed, so head on o#erto the5;o &ot$s5 of onder :uttingbefore starting.

Smooth, sloped hills re(uire a little more patience and a steady cut, but you can achie#e some great looking grassy knolls and hills in no time. ?ou$ll need some fine grade sandpaper inaddition to the onder :utter to smooth out any bumps or miscuts.

-rab one of those big, stinky markers and draw a path directly onto the surface of the foam. =eep in mind that this will represent only the top area of the hill with the slope extendingoutwards from there. So plan ahead< This outline will help you stay on track and keep you from making hideous mis!cuts that waste your precious supply of pink foam.

:ut into the foam at about a /L!degree angle but make sure to make a consistent and e#en slice. 9o#e the cutter slowly and steadily so as to create a smooth cut. )owe#er, you can mixup the slope by using both a steady and rough motion for some really interesting rocky outcroppings on the hill. Slow and e#en pressure is the key< Be patient and don$t fret about anymistakes you makeM it$ll all work out in the end. "fter you free your hill from the foam, you can always go back with the cutter and fix the shape if you$re not pleased with it.

&ext, get your sandpaper and breathing filter ready +sanding foam makes a lot of noxious dust. 3f you don$t ha#e a filter mask, you can impro#ise with a bandana or towel wrapped aroundyour face. Just try to a#oid breathing in the dust, as it is not #ery healthy for you.

>se the sandpaper to smooth the sides so they form a rounded hilltop you want to a#oid unnaturally sharp edges, but also keep in mind that you may also want to sand it so yourminiatures can stand on the hill. ?ou can also use this opportunity to get rid of any imperfections you may ha#e created by accident while initially cutting the foam. "fter applying a bit of theold elbow grease, your hill will ha#e nice, smooth sides.

There, your hill has gone from dream to reality. That wasn$t so tough, now was it% "ll you need to do is paint and flock it, which aren$t #ery hard as long as you make sure to paint the firstlayer by hand to seal the foam +unsealed foam will melt under spray paint. &ow, you should make a bunch more while you$re at it. "ny terrain collection table will benefit from a few more

hills.

*ne of the simplest types of hills to create is the 5rough5 #ariant. Since this #ersion doesn$t re(uire such a steady hand, you can go pretty cra8y with the onder :utter and still come outwith something that looks good. The resulting texture on the sides of the hill make for a perfect rock surface and can be drybrushed easily while the top of the hill can be flocked or simplypainted whate#er color you want.

"gain, grab a piece of pink insulation foam +we used a H/5 inch piece and draw the shape of your hill directly onto the surface. This outline will represent the top surface of your hill, withthe sides extending outwards towards the tabletop. Try to use a thick felt tip pen so you can see where you$re going while you$re busy cutting out the hill. )owe#er, don$t worry too muchabout any mess!ups, because sometimes they end up looking really cool.

2ire up the onder :utter and start hacking out your hill. 9ake sure you hold the cutter at an angle and use #arying amounts of pressure and undulating motions toget a ragged cut. The more rippled and choppy, the better the effect. ?ou will soon disco#er how this cool texture will make for dramatic painting when you highlightthe ridges.

*nce you car#e your creation free of the pink board$s grasp, you will be ama8ed at the effect the onder :utter has gi#en you. 7xperiment with this techni(ue untilyou are comfortable with an effect that you can consistently reproduce.
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"s a side note, see all those extra foam chunks hanging around% )ang onto these strange shaped bits you$#e cut away from your hill and try using them asscenic bits on their own. They could be the ripples on a hardened la#a field, sharp obsidian outcroppings, or crater edges. >se your imagination and see whatyou can come up with.

" rock is a bree8e to produce with the onder :utter. ?ou can create many interesting si8es and shapes by following these few simple steps and adding #ariation to them as you see fit.

2irst off, select the piece of foam you wish to use. 2or this particular rock, 3 chose a fist!si8ed piece from a 65 thick sheet of pink insulation foam. ;etermine a rough shape in your mind andstart cutting. *nce you$#e gotten a basic shape, it is time to begin adding the cool details and crags that make these terrain pieces come to life.

Begin sha#ing off pieces of the foam at an angle all around the foam shape. :ontinue this until you ha#e a cool shaped rock. 3f you$re ha#ing trouble, go and look at real rocks forinspiration. Some are rounded, while others ha#e sharp angles as if they ha#e been hewn. 3ncorporate these natural features into your design.

&ow, go back and add little crags by letting the cutting wire go into the foam and (uickly pulling it out at almost the same angle. This produces neat little 5nicks5 along the surface of theboulder. ;on$t go cra8y with these, as a few here and there should suffice. -uess what. That$s it< 3 bet the whole process probably takes about fi#e minutes, so make up a whole bunch ofthem for your collection.

Variations on this simple rock can be achie#ed by starting with larger pieces of foam and cutting hunks out of the boulder with the onder :utter. 3f you combine many smaller rocks onto abase, it can make for a #ery interesting terrain piece. There are a lot of different rocks out there, so try to make a wide range of rocks using #arious cuts and block si8es.

?ou can easily make monoliths and stone pillars with the onder :utter. 2ollow these simple steps and in no time you$ll ha#e a cool terrain piece or three.

Start with the selection of a suitable block of foam. 3 decided to use a long rectangle of pink foam for a monolith!like structure. 1emember that the thickness of the foam dictates the widthof the base, which in turn limits the height of t he object +see, all those years of geometry classes paid off. Flus, thicker foam is easier to work with.

The important thing to remember is that you really ha#e to watch your hands when you make a pillar like this. hen working on a narrow object like this, it$s #ery easy to slip and burnyourself +young$uns, ask your parents to help. So with that in mind, place the piece on a table, fire up your onder :utter, and make the first cut in a downward motion.

Begin at the top of the pillar and work your initial cuts towards the base, angling outwards to create a slight taper. Try wiggling the cutting wire as you cut for a cool t exture effect. :ontinueuntil you ha#e the rough shape established. "dd any fissures or splits at this time to gi#e the pillar some depth.

?ou should now ha#e a basic shape for your rock pillar all set. 2inish it off by adding details and texture. This can be accomplished by cutting weird angles, adding nicks, scrapes, andcrags. *nce this is complete, you can consider yourself done. "gain, while you$re at it, you might as well create a few pillars for your terrain collection.

)a#e some fun with these pieces by attempting to create new and interesting textures or cutting strange angles and shapes into the pillar. "fter a bit of practice, you will ha#e a fa#oritetechni(ue for making these terrain pieces. "dd flair to your piece with #arious skulls and such from your bit8 box. Beastmen and :haos players will delight in adding the trophies of fallenenemies to their herdstones and monoliths.

By combining some of the basic the techni(ues these examples ha#e co#ered, you can get great looking pieces of terrain. &ow it$s time to combine what you$#e learned to make a complexand realistic terrain piece. 'et$s gi#e it a go by trying to make a multi!layered, rocky hill.

-et a marker +any color but pink and trace out the shape of what will become the base of the hill. This bottom section, or the one in contact with the tabletop, should be large enough toaccommodate the next layer you will be adding next.

"fter you ha#e the basic hill bottom traced out and in your hands, you can fire up the onder :utter and begin to follow your predetermined outline. )ack off the edges of the foam in astraight!cutting manner without too much funny stuff. By this 3 mean cut it out as if it were a piece of a pu88le, not angled out like before. :heck out the diagram on the right to get an idea

of what you should be doing. See how it slides off when you pull downwards%

hen you$#e cut out the complete base, it is time to begin adding lo#ely texture. ?ou$re going to want to lea#e the underside flat so it will sit on the table. )owe#er, the rest of the layer isfair game. Shape the edges at #arious angles to simulate a rocky hill +see the picture to the left and abo#e.

&ow, using the shaped bottom piece as a guide, draw out the shape of the top sections that will be stacked upon it. ?ou can be imaginati#e here, but make sure to lea#eenough room for miniatures to climb and stand on the rock pile.

:ut out the shapes that you ha#e traced. *nce the shapes ha#e been separated from the foam board, get to work on adding texture to both the top and bottom of theseboulders. 7xperiment by wiggling the cutter in #arious ways, or gouging the foam with (uick, deep cuts.

*nce all your pieces are cut out and textured, you can begin to assemble your hill. Simply use good old wood glue or 'i(uid &ails to affix each layer. ;o not use superglue because it will eat a hole right through all you precious work< Be patient and let the glue do it$s job before painting.
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The pictures show you our example of a three!tiered hill, but feel free to make something wider and taller than this< &ow that you ha#e the hang of the onder :utter, you should get busyand try new and interesting things with the pink insulation foam. -i#e a go at making complicated stacks of rocks that encompass a huge area, or simply crank out an entire battlefield oftwisted and craggy rock outcroppings. 3t doesn$t take that much time and is well worth the effort.

Since we are dealing with a tool that reaches high temperatures and foam that can produce fumes, there are a few precautions to take before a session of wondercutting.

2irst of all, the wire is )*T< ;o not touch it with your fingers or attempt to lick it while it is in operation. This will cause nasty burns and make food taste funny for awhile. =eep in mind where you are placing the onder :utter, as it can burn through carpet, chairs, the family cat, or your buddy$s arm. ?ou will also need to resistthe urge to attack your enemies with such a de#astating 9elta weapon< Seriously, be careful with the cutter, it can and will burn you and your stuff.

Secondly, as the onder :utter burns through foam, it produces smoke and fumes. So please, please, please be sure to operate it in a we** 4enti*ate' area!)ey,if it is a nice day, go outside or out into the garage and do your cutting there. Frolonged exposure to these fumes in a closed room is B";< ;o not do thisnit Strength of 6, enough to ha#e some effect in a flank or rear attackif fielded in groups of three or more. 7xpensi#e, these models are likely to be fielded in small units that will ha#e to be protected from enemy missile fire, but their T/, 6 ounds, andimpressi#e armor sa#e means that it is rather difficult to bring these flying =nights down.

The -rail 1eli(uae and Battle Filgrims make up a unit that many opponents will underestimate. :omposed of scruffy!looking peasants and old relics, the Battle Filgrims can put up oneheck of a fight with their 9atre'and Stu//ornspecial rules. 3n addition, the Battle Filgrims can gain the B*essing of the La'y< :ombining the 'ady$s blessing with their armor, shields,and hand weapons, the Battle Filgrims can form a unit that most enemy formations will find hard to crack. Froperly used, Battle Filgrims can tie up an enemy unit turn after turn, allowingfaster!mo#ing units like =nights to get into position for a flank or rear charge.

9en!at!"rms, 9ounted ?eomen, and Feasant Bowmen +the non!=nightly forces of Bretonnia suffer from low 'eadership #alues, meaning that you should try to keep =nights nearby, orthese scruffy!looking fellows will head for the hills at the earliest opportunity. hen their spines are stiffened by the influence of a friendly =night +due to the "easants Dutyrule, howe#er,these units can ser#e you well as cheap, expendable troops that can slow down an enemy flank or pro#ide support for your =nights as they charge in.

9ounted ?eomen count as Fast 6a4a*ry, gaining (uite a few bonuses. 2or more information on the ad#antages and uses of Fast 6a4a*ry, see -eoff 'eong$s 51apid 1esponse5 article inWhite Dwarf E-=.

Feasant Bowmen are an extremely #ersatile unit. These archers are good for annoying enemy units with longbow fire, attacking ar 9achine crews, and taking on other small, scoutingunits such as 2ree :ompanies or 'i8ardmen Skinks. Feasant Bowmen can Skirmish, which is an excellent idea to get the maximum number of shots f rom their longbows. 3n addition,Feasant Bowmen can set up with defensi#e stakes that make charging their formation a dicey proposition. 3t is almost always worth it t o upgrade one Feasant Bowmen to a Villein in order

to take ad#antage of his higher Ballistic Skill. The longbow$s excellent 05 range gi#es Feasant Bowmen the ability to shoot across a great deal of the battlefield. 2inally, SkirmishingFeasant Bowmen make a good screening force to protect another unit +such as expensi#e -rail =nights or delicate;amsels from enemy shooting.

9en!at!"rms are similar to :lanrat Sla#es in that they are expendable troops. " unit of 9en!at!"rms with a Standard that isrun down and destroyed doesn$t grant any Victory Foints for capturing the Standard, which means they function well as asacrificial unit to lure enemy forces into position for a thundering charge with your =nights. "lso, should your =nights getgood and stuck in +which will almost always happen, a nearby unit of 9en!at!"rms can pile in for a flank attack to supportits noble countrymen and help outnumber the enemy in combat resolution. The addition of a )alberd can gi#e a 9en!at!"rms unit some bite +S/ attacks. 9uch like the Feasant Bowmen abo#e, 9en!at!"rms also do well to screen units youwant to temporarily keep out of sight.

Though the 2ield Trebuchet is slightly more expensi#e than other Stone Throwers, t he 2ield Trebuchet has the ad#antageof hitting harder at SL +A0 and reaching farther +up to 405. *ne interesting method to protect your Trebuchet is a fly!byfrom your Fegasus =nights +use only if it is con#enient and your Trebuchet is in real trouble


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The Lan)e Formation)ea#ily armored =nights thundering across the battlefield atop massi#e horses while carrying iron!tipped lances are a sight that can cause e#en the most jaded heartto (uail. The 'ance formation ensures that the majority of the =nights in any gi#en unit will get t o attack during a :harge. 2lank attacks can become an issue with the'ance formation due to its extended length and relati#ely small front, but that same front means that two or more =night units can usually get to charge the sameenemy regiment< 3n order to gain the maximum benefit of your unit champion, place him in the front rank where he can accept and issue challenges. ;amsels whoha#e joined a =nightly unit are protected by riding in the center of the formation, although doing so means that the ;amsel$s line!of!sight is se#erely reduced.-enerally, 3 ne#er place my ;amsel in such danger, preferring to keep her in the rear of my force where she can concentrate on disrupting my opponent$s 9agicFhase. )owe#er, depending on the spells you get for a battle, you may wish to go ahead and place her with the =nights to assist them with any spells that do notre(uire line!of!sight.

=eeping in mind that the 'ance formation is made up of ranks three =nights wide, the ideal si8e of a 'ance formation is a multiple of three. Six =nights in 'anceformation means that fi#e of those =nights can fight during the charge. )owe#er, to make sure that at least six =nights make it into combat, you will probably want alarger unit< *f course, each rank of three =nights adds a bonus to :ombat 1esolution, so units of A6 and e#en AL =nights are not unknown +although AL =nights are

a little difficult to maneu#er, much less fit into the ;eployment Qone


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Twilight Banner is an excellent way to maneu#er a large unit of =nights into a threatening position by ignoring anyinter#ening terrain, while the Braid can make sure your =nights fear no bodies of water. Battles against 'i8ardmen +wholikewise make good use of water features would be an excellent time to utili8e the Braid$s power to counter the enemy$sad#antages. The sudden appearance of a group of =nights on a flank can cause the enemy$s plans to fall apart #ery(uickly< Total cost K points +A6 =nights of the 1ealm with the Twilight Banner and full command.

The Fear*ess Defen'ers" unit of Puesting =nights with the Valorous Standard led by a Faladin Battle Standard Bearer is the next!best thing tounbreakable. Puesting =nights are normally able to reroll f ailed psychology tests, and the presence of the ValorousStandard gi#es them the best two dice of ;4 for any 'eadership roll. *f course, the Battle Standard Bearer then adds hisreroll for break tests. To make the unit slightly more balanced, 3 recommend gi#ing the Faladin the 7irtue of the I'ea*,which adds some additional close!combat ability to the unit while lowering the 'eadership tests by A. Total cost L04 points

+AA Puesting =nights with full command and the Valorous Standard led by a Faladin Battle Standard Bearer with mount, great weapon, uesting 7ow, and 7irtue of the I'ea*.

The Storm of Lan)es" unit of =nights of the 1ealm with the Banner of the 'ady led by a Faladin with the 7irtue of Duty can break far more numerous formations. The Banner, while expensi#e, is simplyama8ing enemy units will get no bonus for ranks. 3n addition, the Virtue adds a NA to combat resolution, which adds to the normal bonuses for ranks and so forth. "n alternati#ecombination in#ol#es the ar Banner and the 7irtue of Dis)ip*ine, which also denies the enemy a combat resolution bonus for outnumbering. Total cost /RI points +AA =nights of the1ealm led by a Faladin Battle Standard Bearer with the Banner of the 'ady, mount, lance, shield, and the 7irtue of Duty.

Dep*oyment an' Maneu4ering9e*pfu* Ta)ti)s 6omp*ete with Dep*oyment Maps

Dep*oyment)ere are some basic examples of a Bretonnian army$s deployment. *f course, as any player learns and grows to understand hisarmy in depth, his deployment will change depending on his playing style and the kind of enemy he is facing. 2or a beginner likemyself, these simple plans seem to work while gaining that experienceS Fromotions ;epartment has done a fantastic con#ersion of an 3ron )ands Terminator. Below,Stu explains some of his thinking behind his con#ersion and suggests a few materials and techni(ues that you can use for your own 3ron)ands models.

Stu The 3ron )ands don$t ha#e Terminators in s(uads, but 3ron )and players do ha#e the option to upgrade theirSergeants with Terminator armor. 3 thought it might be cool to co#ert a model for a Veteran Sergeant who has beengifted with a suit of Terminator armor along with bionics and other embellishments. 9y main goals with thiscon#ersion were to add details that made the model fit in with the o#erall look of the 3ron )ands :hapter and also tomake the figure physically larger to make him stand out among a group of Space 9arines.3 started work on the chest, because 3 felt that it would be the focal area of the miniature as it supports the head andis the center of the model. To differentiate the chest from that of other Terminators, 3 used a different head and chestplate. 3 cut the Space olf 3ron Friest head off of the original miniature. 3 chose this head, because it seems tocombine elements of the helmets of the 3ron )ands, Techmarines, and Terminators. 3 also used a 9k. I chest platefrom the Space 9arine :ommand "ccessories sprue. 3 liked the cool chest #ent and the way the neck armor comes

up to the bottom of the face to pro#ide more protection. ?ou could also use an 3ron )and torso in a similar way. 3used bits of plasticard to bulk out the torso to get the chest plate and original back piece to fit together. 3 also bulkedup the feet with plasticard to gi#e the model more height.

3 added the 7pic Space 9arine on the grea#e, as 3 intend to incorporate it into a sort of three!dimensional mural when 3 paint the figure. 3 also hollowed out the upper thigh of the oppositeleg and inserted #arious si8es of guitar wire and metal rod to gi#e the impression of bionics.3 used the shoulder pad from the 3ron Friest model. The figure was ruined after taking the head off anyway, and 3 liked the way the edging on the shoulder pad seemed to fit in with theiconography of the 3ron )ands. ?ou could use an 3ron )and shoulder pad just as easily. 3 bulked up the shoulder pad with plasticard to make it more Terminator!si8ed. 2inally, 3 added alefto#er ;readnought Fowerfist. The sheer si8e of this weapon fit in with what 3 wanted to accomplish with this Terminator.
http://us.games-workshop.com/download/popup.htm?/games/40k/spacemarines/painting/ironhands/images/stu3b.jpghttp://us.games-workshop.com/download/popup.htm?/games/40k/spacemarines/painting/ironhands/images/stu2b.jpghttp://us.games-workshop.com/download/popup.htm?/games/40k/spacemarines/painting/ironhands/images/stu1b.jpghttp://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/spacemarines/painting/ironhands/default.htmhttp://us.games-workshop.com/download/popup.htm?/games/40k/spacemarines/painting/ironhands/images/hastae_martiaeb.jpg


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By 1oss atson

Some of my first games of arhammer /0,000 in#ol#ed the jet!black 'and Speeders of the ;ark "ngels 1a#enwing. These agile #ehicles earned my respect in those early games andpro#ed capable as a Space 9arine gunship that could dart in and unleash a hail of firepower before swooping out once again. Today, there are more #ersions of the 'and Speedera#ailable to a Space 9arine player than e#er before. 3t doesn$t matter whether your :hapter is assault!oriented or speciali8es in long!range firepower the 'and Speeder S(uadron can bea #aluable addition to your forces and support nearly any kind of strategy.

'and Speeder Basics'and Speeders are 2ast #ehicles, meaning they can mo#e up to 6/5. This phenomenal speed makes the 'and

Speeder the fastest thing in the Space 9arine arsenal short of the Thunderhawk.

'and Speeders are also Skimmers, making them the only #ehicles of that type in the 3mperial arsenal. "ble to ignoreinter#ening terrain, Skimmers can na#igate e#en a crowded battlefield with ease, though they can$t fly o#er other

models. This capability only adds to the 'and Speeder$s already!potent maneu#erability.

This speed comes with a few limitations, howe#er. 3f they mo#e more than A65, 'and Speeders cannot fire a singleweapon. 3f 'and Speeders mo#e more than 45 but no more than A65, they can fire one main weapon +SK or higher

and all defensi#e weapons +S4 or below. 'astly, if 'and Speeders mo#e 45 or less, they can fire all their weapons atonce.

The 'and Speeder can only be e(uipped with one weapon that would be classified as a main weapon the 9ulti!9elta +ignore the Tempest #ariant for now. "ll other 'and Speeder weapons fall under the defensi#e weapon

category +including the Typhoon 9ultiple 9issile 'auncher. hat does that mean% 1egardless of the armament,'and Speeders can mo#e up to A65 and fire e#ery weapon on board.

The basic 'and Speeder in a S(uadron is armed with a )ea#y Bolter. This weapon may be replaced with a 9ulti!9elta at NAL points per #ehicle. The other #ariants of the 'and Speeder+see below can mount more weapons of differing #arieties.

"t a cost of only L0 points each, the basic 'and Speeder is an excellent buy. 3 normally like to field a 9ulti!9elta 'and Speeder to increase my force$s anti!armor capability. "s you will seein the Battlefield 1oles section, 'and Speeders armed with 9ulti!9eltas excel as tank!hunters.

'and Speeder VariantsThere are three main #ariants of the 'and Speeder a#ailable to the Space 9arines. 7ach #ariant possesses a particular ad#antage that the basic 'and Speeder lacks.

Lan' Spee'er Torna'o

The Tornado #ariant carries more weapons than the basic 'and Speeder. ?ou may upgrade a regular 'and Speeder with a )ea#y Bolter to a 'and Speeder Tornado by adding an"ssault :annon at N0 points +that combination makes for a potent anti!personnel choice. " 'and Speeder with a 9ulti!9elta can be upgraded to a 'and Speeder Tornado by adding a)ea#y 2lamer for NA0 points. Tornadoes make for a lot of )ea#y eapons that can all fire at once in one highly mobile unit.

Lan' Spee'er Typhoon

9y fa#orite #ariant, the 'and Speeder Typhoon, is extraordinary at antipersonnel actions on the battlefield. " regular 'and Speeder armed with a )ea#y Bolter or 9ulti!9elta can be f ittedwith the Typhoon 9ultiple 9issile 'auncher. The Typhoon 9issile inflicts a hard hit with the blast template at long range +up to /I5 and rarely misses since it is twin!linked. The Typhoon

#ariant$s only real drawback is its lack of #ersatility the Typhoon 9issile 'auncher is excellent at destroying infantry or light #ehicles, but nearly useless against e#en medium armorsuch as the 7ldar 2alcon or Tau ;e#ilfish.

Lan' Spee'er Tempest

Though rarely seen because it is a Forge Wor*'model +which re(uires your opponent$s permission to deploy, the 'and Speeder Tempest is another option worth mentioning. ;escribedin Imperia* Armor 7o*, -1 Spa)e Marines an' For)es of the In@uisition, the Tempest sports better armor, an "ssault :annon, and a twin!linked 9issile 'auncher +the =rak 9issilemakes the 9issile 'auncher the main weapon. Thus, the Tempest is among the most feared #ersions of the 'and Speeder. The Tempest fields a bit of a difficult combination of weapons the "ssault :annon has a 6/5 range while the 9issile 'auncher fires out to /I5. Better frontal armor means that the Tempest can usually get in close to troops without much worry.Flus, the Tempest is a #ery good tank hunter almost as a good as the 'and Speeder with the 9ulti!9elta. )owe#er, 3 normally do not field any Tempests, as they are not focusedenough for my purposes and cost more points than two basic 'and Speeders< hat$s more, as the Tempest rules are currently written, you can only field one per 2ast "ttack choice, not
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a S(uadron like the other 'and Speeders. Still, the twin!linked firepower of the Tempest$s 9issile 'auncher and its increased armor make the Tempest a force to be reckoned with.9aybe next time if 3 ha#e an open 2ast "ttack choice'7S T* 23T ?*>1 S:7&"13**nce you ha#e an idea for a Sea 9onster, it is important to think of some appropriate rules. This process is more about scenarios and how you want your monster to interact with the gamethan it is about hardcore game mechanics and balanced play. >se the statistics from existing Sea 9onsters to get a rough concept of about where you should be. Below are some commontheme!types for Scenarios and some rules suggestions.

1andom 7ncounter Scenarios. *ur most common use of Sea 9onsters was to ha#e battles take place o#er particularly dangerous regions. This could be shark!infested waters using therules straight out of The -eneral$s :ompendium or it could be5randomi8ed5 as per the Sea 9onsters in thehite ;warf 6R0Battle 1eport. " random!acting Sea 9onster adds lots of fun orperil to the game, depending on whose ship the beast is dismantling at the time. Below we ha#e a sample of a randomi8ed chart, to be rolled on at the start of each player turn

D; &o** Samp*e &an'omi0e' Sea Monster A)tion 6hart

+ The Sea 9onster attacks the nearest potential #ictim in the water.

- The Sea 9onster may be controlled by Flayer A.

. The Sea 9onster may be controlled by Flayer 6.

# The Sea 9onster mo#es 6;4 inches in a random direction +roll the Scatter die.

: The Sea 9onster lurks just below the water but does not mo#e this turn.

;The Sea 9onster sinks below the wa#es and does not resurface until a Flayer rolls a 4 +on a ;4 at t he start of his turn. 3f the monster does reappear, all player must dice off with the highestrolling player allowed to place the newly surfaced creature. 3n the turn the creature surfaces it may not mo#e.

7mpire troops are good with ketchup


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us that you ha#e three main options to explore.

A Build your own Sea 9onster models from scratch. This isn$t as hard as you might think it is but it may take you some time before you can reach the le#el of the >S )obby Team$s :had9ier8wa. 2or the Tentacled )orror and :a#ern!9outhed Behemoth, :had shaped a material called "poxie Sculpt o#er a frame of insulation foam and f loral wire. 7xtra details, like the

Behemoth$s teeth, were modeled out of dowel rods, while the suckers on the tentacles are no more than green stuff putty molded into the shape of suckers. e suggest you start smallbefore you tackle critters are formidable as this> Broa'si'e /att*esuits, These hea4y hitters formthe )ore of the Tau firing *ine, Their stan'ar' e@uipment of a Twin5Linke' &ai*gun an' a Smart Missi*e System is aperfe)t fit for their mission1 ki**ing 4ehi)*es an' *arge /easties, These targets ha4e a har' time hi'ing, 9i4e Tyrantsan' Lan' &ai'ers 'o not sneak up on opponents, If they 'o su))ee' in hi'ing3 then they wi** a*so su))ee' in*imiting their effe)ti4eness,

To prote)t these 4a*ua/*e /att*esuits3 I p*a)e a 9uman Au

blackgobbo6-10

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