bombay guidebook

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This is a guidebook i made while living and working in Bombay. Not all the copy is mine, hope to be of some use to anyone.

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bombay

indiaBamboozling. There’s simply no other word that convincingly captures the

enigma that is India. With its in-your-face diversity - from snow-dusted

mountains to sun-washed beaches, tranquil temples to feisty festivals, lantern-

lit villages to software-supremo cities - it’s hardly surpresing that this country

has been dubbed the world’s most multidimensional. Love it or loathe it - and

most visitors see-saw between the two - India promises to jostle your entire

being, and no matter where you go or what you do, it’s a place that you’ll

never forget.

So, what is it that’s drawing more and more people to India? While the rea-sons vary intimately from person to person, for many it’s the challenge of get-ting up close and personal with one of the planet’s most intriguing countries... and quite possiby unrevelling oneself along the way. But in all its chaotic glory, you’ll soon discover that India is an eternal work in progress. Indeed, for many visitors, this is precisely what makes her so deeply rewarding, so surprisingly addictive. Ultimately, it’s all about taking a leap of faith and sur-rendering to the unknown: this is the India that nothing can ever prepare you for because its very essence - its elusive soul - lies cradled in its mystery.

population 1.2 billion

area 3.287.590 sq km

capital Delhi

main languages Hindi, English

and 21 more national lenguages

Stretching from the unspoilt greens of the sleepy Konkan Coast, all the way

into the parched innards of India’s heartland, Maharasthra packs in enough

wonders to satisfy even the pickiest of travellers. Being India’s second most

populous state (and third largest by area), its gigantic canvas is painted with

a smattering of lazy beaches, lofty mountains, virgin forests and historical hot

spots, complemented by the famed sights, sounds, tastes and experiences of

this wonderful country.

Up north, there’s Nasik, where ritous colorus blend with timeless Hindu ritual. Down south, modern India comes of age in Pune, a city as famous for its sex guru as its food-and-beverage circuit. Further south still, in Kalhapur, cameras work overtime to capture overwhelming temples, extravagant palaces and grimy action in the wrestiling pits. And located in the midst of it all are the architec-tural and artistic wonders of the state, topped by the World Heritage-listed cave temples of Ellora and Ajanta. Witchever way you look at it, Maharasthra is truly one of the most vibrand and rewarding corners of India.

population 112.3 million

area 307.690 sq km

capital Mumbai (Bombay)

main languages Marathi, Hindi, English

maharashtra

Explore cave temples and gasp in wonder at Ellora and Ajanta

Lose yourself in a holy confluence of colors and faith in NasikRun away from Bombay madness to Konkan serene beaches

Learn how to make friend with snakes in Pune

highlights

Measure out: one part Hollywood; six parts traffic; a bunch of rich power-

moguls; stir in half a dozen colonial relics (use big ones); pour in six heaped

cups of poverty; add a smattering of swish bars and restaurants (don’t skimp

on quality here for best results); equal parts of mayhem and order; as

many ancient bazaars as you have lying around; a handful of Hinduism;

a dash of Islam; fold in your mixture with equal parts India; throw it all

in a blender on high (adding generous helpings of pollution to taste)

and presto: Mumbai.

An inebriating mix of all the above and more, this mass of humanity is a frantic melange of India’s extremes. It is the country’s financial powerhouse and its vogue centre of fashion, film and after-dark frolics. Glistening skyscrapers and malls mushroom amid slums and grinding poverty, and Mumbai slowly marches towards a brave new (air-conditioned) world. But not everyone made the guest list: more than half of the population lives in slums, and religious-based social unrest tugs at the skirt of Mumbai’s financial excess.

Once the initial shell shock of Mumbai’s chaos subsides, one can start

to appreciate the city’s allure: a wealth of Art Deco and grand colonial relics;

cacophonic temples; warrens of bazaars; and the odd spiritual tranquillity.

population 12.4 million

area 603 sq km

density 20.6 / sq km

districts Mumbai City (south)

Mumbai Suburban

bombaySUburban

south

bandra

khar

santa cruz

juhu

vile parle

andheri

s.v. road

m.v. road

w. hwy

linking road

bbh

SUBURBS w. suburb

The sort of place that dismiss introductions, Bandra is north Mumbai

asnwer to Colaba. The “Queen Of The Suburbs”, as it is known, is a hip

yet quaint spot. It is the home of many rich famous faces that reign over

Bollywood, including the King of Bolliwood; Sharukh Khan.

Like most Suburban in Mumbai Bandra is divided into the eastern and western parts. Bandra west is adjacent to the sea, one of the reasons for its huge popularity, while Bandra East has the more commercial areas.

Starry resdents and pretty bungalows aside, shopping and dining top the list of reasons to vistit Bandra. Whether you’re into laid back, easy on the pocket al fresco dining or a more refined, up market experience, you can be sure to delight your taste buds in Bandra. Oh, and don’t forget to come here at nightime, that’s when Bandra really comes alive.

Once occupied by the Portuguese, Bandra West still has the largest

Catholic population in Mumbai. It’s Catholic influences is a part of the

charm of Bandra, who houses in the largest number of Roman Catholic

churches anywhere in the world (that’s what they say!) - picturesque old

bungalows peppered trhough leaf by lanes, plenty of bakeries and delis,

and a rustic old village or two peeking out of corners and charmingly

reminiscent of Goa.

carter roadcarter road

chimbai rd

hill road

bandstand

ambedkar road

khar danda road

south avenue

north avenue

linking roadlinking road

s.v. road

s.v. road

s.v. roads.v. road

station road

bandra worli s

ea link

k.c. marg

western express hwy

pali mala roadperry cross rd

chuim village rd

danda road 3

road 4road 5

nargis dutt rd

pali hill

sherley rd

st andrews rd

chuim village

jogger’s park

gurushetra road

13th road

18th rd

15th rd

14th rd

16th rd16th rd

21th rd

14th rd

16th rd

19th rd20th rd

29th rd

28th rd

waterfield rd

30th rd

33th rd35th rd

13th rd

7th rd

n.l. rd

3rd rd st. martin rd

rk patkar marg

1st rd

khar west

7th rd

8th rd

main avenue

ahinsa marg

st. john baptist rd

peter dias rd

rebelion rd

chape

l rd

reclamation

n. dayabhai rd

mt. mary church

carmel church

st. peter church

st. andrews church

st. pauls rd st. dominic rd alameda park

st. leo rd

st. cyrill rd

taj land’s end

patwardhanpark

union park

madhu park

bandra

khar

santacruz

foodHere you can find it all, Bandra is well knonw for its restaurants e pubs that

go up untill late (1h 1h30am).

I’ve listed some of them but I suggest you go for a walk on Bandstand, Turner

rd, Pali Naka, Union Park and discover yourself your favorite spot!

Don’t forget to write down the adress, it can be tricky to get back.

GostanaA small little burguer place near Da Vinci coffee, amazing burgers and free

wi-fi. Not into meat? you can go for the veg burguer, is delicious.29th road, Pali Naka, Bandra (w)

Shree Krishna

Whant some really really good and cheap indian food? here’s the place

try some ice cream for desert.

1st Road, behind S.V. rd, Khar (w)

Steak HouseIf you’re not so much into vegetarian food and just miss a good old steak

you’ll be happy in here.Lourdes Heaven, Pali Naka, Bandra (w), next to Toto’s

Global Fusion

Te gusta sushi? Global Fusion is inside Link Square Mall, on the 3rd floor.

Linking Square Mall, Liking Road with 33rd road, Bandra (w)

Candies

A must go once you’re here.

Cheap food and a cool enviroment.Pali Hill, St. Andrews Road, Bandra (w), near Learners Academy

Eat around the Corner

A good and chilling atmosphere on this make-your-sandwich restaurant.

Pretty good salad and chicken also.

Junction of 14th & 30th Road, Opposite St Theresa School, Bandra (w)

Street food

That’s the real deal, don’t worry, you won’t die.

Paani Puri, boost, chai e coffee.

The Shwarma corner.Before Morosh, a hidden corner, it’s treasure. Go to Frankies.

Carter road, Bandra (w)

ice cream

Natural Ice Cream

Cheap and really good fruit ice cream, perhaps the best you can find.Hill rd, Bandra (w), next to Moccha Mojo

Yogurtbay

Whant some froozen yogurt? head to Carter road,

here you can also find a Baskin and Robbins and some really good donuts.

Baskin n’ Robbins

Old but gold, the closest one is on Linking road.Linking road, Bandra (w), after the McDonald’s and the KFC

coffee wi-fi

The Bagel Shop

A charming place with a LOT of bagel options. If it is available try the

lychee iced tea.

Pali Mala Road, Bandra (w)

Fellas Cafe Yumm and healthy, don’t forget to try the juices, it doesn’t matter wich one.

Ahimsa Marg, Khar (w)

Deliciae - The Dessert Cafe

Out of the world ferrerro roche cakes and cheesecakes.

great to just sit by yourself and sip a quite coffee with a nice slice of heaven.

Hotel Le Sutra, Union Park, Khar (w)

Bombay is one hot place, cool down with some cooold ice cream.

Working all the time at the agency can get pretty boring and non productive,

sometimes is good to go around just to clear up your mind.

Never forget that you are in India, this should be your Mantra.

shopping

Linking road for shoes and branded apparel. Turner road for precious

jewellery. Hill road for street-shopping ant ethnic wear. Waterfield road for

smaller, independent boutiques with imported goods. Khar Danda road for

linen and drapes

Bandra is the perfect place to go shopping, you can find anything you want here, you just need to look for it.

Admire old cottages while driving down Turner RoadSample yummy biscuits amd buns at the old bakeries on Hill RoadTake a walk on the Carter Road promenade, top it off with coconut waterVisit Mount Mary and St. Andrew;s churchesEnjoy a kingfisher, the king of indian beers, at one of the barsTry some spice Indian snacks (like pani puri) at Punjab Sweet HouseGo hunting for curious and funky clothes to the small shops at Khar and Waterfield road

Head to the end of Carter Road for a snacky bite

yoga

nightlife

must do

The Yoga House in Chimbai road (Bandstand) is a good and charming place owned by a french girl and her indian husband. They hold diferents Yoga modalities clases everyday,

(such as Ashtanga, Pranayam, Iyengar, Hatha and also Kundalini). A nice place to eat some healthy food and just chill out with free wi-fi.Sunday clases are free, so just drop by, usually they start at 16h30.

Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute

This is serious business, one of the most renowned Yoga institutes of the

world. A must-visit place for any serious yoga practitioner.

Give a call before droping by.

Elmac House, 126 Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel

(+91) 22 24948416

Bandra is reborn at night, go for a walk on the promenade, carter road or pali naka. Most of the cafe’s only closes after midnight, and if you’re up for some dancing a good idea is to check Blue Frog’s, they always bring good interna-cional djs and bands. Juhu also have some famous clubs.

Are you into Yoga? your body is your temple, only in a balanced body rests

a peaceful mind.

9am Start with breakfast at Salt Water Cafe if you’re looking for scrump-

tious Eggs Benedict or fabulous continental fare 11am Stop by at the famous

Mont Mary Church and St. Andrew’s Church to get a flavour of Bandra.

Drive through Chimbai Village to get a feel of old Bandra noon Head to

Linking road if you’re in the mood for shopping. For those who prefer read-

ing, Crossword at Turner road is a good option 1pm A long lunch at Out

of the Blue with a couple of martinis will recharge your batteries 3pm Up for

more shopping? then look smaller independent stores in the quiet suburban

lanes 5pm Catch a coffee at Cafe Coffee Day on Carter road, followed by a

leisurely walk down the Carter road promenade right before sunset 8pm Get

a glimpse of Bombay nightlife at Bonobo.

one day in Bandra

my indiaYou’re here to discover this fascinating country, take your time and also take some notes!

safety tips

Shout rikshaw when you see an empty one

When going around on a rikshaw or a cab first say the neighboorhood you

want to go (Santacruz, Khar, Bandra), and after that the name of the street

I suggest you always go with taximeter, don’t fix prices

Do not go to south Bombay on rush hour unless ir inevitable

When crossing the street do a calm down sign with your hand, cars will stop

for you

If you shake your hands sideways (as we do for more or less) people

will understand that you mean no. Try it out with

beggers. Avoid eye contact if you do not wish them

to be insistent

Always remember that children are only children

Smile at people that stare at you, most

probably they’ll smile back

Drink sugar cane, boost and chai

Try to go to Goa for a weekend, i suggest a

beach called Palolem

Let your free soul enjoy this magical place,

i hope you have a good time

By traveling around Asia for sometime, and also living in Bombay for 3 months, i came to gather some info that can help you around, hope they’re useful. Don’t forget to right down and to share your on tips.