Build Your Own Hookah And Save Plus

Shallow Water Diving Apparatus, Helmets And Much More By Carlos Silva

http://underwaterprojects.741.com. Buyer is granted full re-sale rights

Imagine the freedom of floating underwater, weightless. Not worrying about running out of air. Unencumbered by heavy equipment. Restricted only by the radius of your hose.

Disclaimer

This book is written as a source of information. by purchasing this book you agree to assume responsibility for your own safety. You must be a certified PADI or equivalent open water diver or higher, in order to dive using any type of compressed air. Please read this manual in it’s entirety before attempting to build one of these rigs. The author is not a Diving instructor, and this book is not an intended diving manual . Safety and training is beyond the scope of this book, and can only be obtained by professional instruction, and personal experience. The same rules learned in your PADI certification course apply to hookah diving, as well as shallow water diving. There are other concern involved with this type of sport. PADI offers some courses involving hookah. Refresher courses are quite affordable, and fun. Don't gamble with your life! Get the training! Shallow water diving is an unregulated sport. Let's keep it that way. Bad publicity will result in restrictive regulations.

REMEMBER Never Dive alone. Always keep a monitor on the surface. Have a backup emergency air supply in case the compressor fails. Although there are cheap substitutes for surface supplied air equipment, there is no cheap substitute for training. Note on the pictures: These pictures came from different sources and the quality varies. I recently had a computer crash, and was unable to recover all my original work. Luckily I had some of these on a gif and jpeg, but they lacked the resolution of the originals pdd format. I apologize for my lack of thoroughness, future editions will have better quality graphics. I will maintain a database of my customers and will send you any updates as a courtesy. Notes on generalization: Unfortunately I’m not familiar with metric system. I’ll try and give both Imperial and metric where applicable, some instances I’ve not been able to give the metric measure. I’ll try and correct that in future editions. I stayed away from mentioning specific part numbers, and brands, reason, buyers in foreign lands have no use for American SKU numbers, and providing them with details about any product might raise questions about compatibility. Anyone brave smart to build their own diving gear should be sufficiently resourceful to procure the parts. By the way getting the parts is the hardest part of building your own gear. And last reason liability. Notes regarding the math section: This section is there for the benefit of the reader. . I will not re-write or answer questions on, or about it. Math was never my cup of tea.

Introduction Anyone starting out as a scuba diver can easily spend $1250 in equipment. By the time you end up buying a BCD, weight belt, first second stage plus alternate regulator, and tanks. A hookah rig can replace all the above stated equipment, you’ll still need a weight belt but not as many weights. By doing away with the mentioned gear, you’ll also be eliminating the yearly fees associated with mandatory, tank visual inspections, sport licenses, the periodic hydrostatic tests, and the maintenance associated with the equipment. By switching to a hookah rig you’ll do away with all the above mentioned expenses. Your maintenance costs will be the same as running a lawnmower. A simple oil and filter change costing less than $10 a year will keep your engine running smoothly for many years. As an added benefit your rig will weigh less than all that cumbersome scuba equipment. The back breaking work of carrying the gear to your dive site, sometimes having to make two trips, and then having to assemble and check the cumbersome scuba apparatus, and then trying to dawn the gear in waist deep surf, as this is usually too heavy to put on while on land... All this goes away with a hookah rig. Hookah rigs are lightweight compared

with the scuba gear needed, and it’s less awkward to carry, all the equipment is attached to the float including diver down flag. Boat mounted rigs also have the same advantages, the only drawback is you are limited in range by the length of your hose. Once you arrive at your dive site the only thing you have to do is start the gasoline motor, and put on your harness. you’ll still need fins, mask, and snorkel, pressure gauge. Your harness should have weights built in. Other equipment is optional, compass, flashlight etc. You’ll be in the water diving, while scuba divers are still retrieving their gear from their vehicles. Scuba diving is fast becoming a sport for the elite, and hookah diving is not far behind. This book will show you how you can beat the high prices. The goal of this manual is to help the reader: 1. Avoid spending thousands in scuba diving equipment 2. Avoid the high costs of tank refills 3. Avoid the yearly tank inspection fees 4. Avoid expensive hydro testing 5. Extend bottom time 6. Lessen the size and weight of your diving gear 7. And save hundreds of Dollars by building your own hookah rig 8. Explore other means of diving using surface supplied air 9. Eliminate un-needed or redundant components 10. Build you own gear Geek Stuff! Throughout this ebook there are sections colored in gray. This is filled with boring technical details. Most readers will find it easier to skip these sections.

Table Of Contents Section 1 Hookah Systems

COST COMPARISON BETWEEN TANKS AND, A HOOKAH SYSTEM FOR TWO DIVERS The Basics Of Hookah Diving Using Designated Hookah Equipment PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER Converting A SCUBA Regulator

Section 2 Building Your Own Hookah Gear

BUILD YOUR OWN FLOAT AND SAVE HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DIVE RIG

Section 3 Open End/ Continuous Flow Systems/ Shallow Water Diving THE BASICS

BUILDING YOUR OWN CONTINUOUS FLOW SYSTEM THE MATH BEHIND OPEN END SYSTEMS EXAMPLES OF HOMEBUILT APPARATUS AIR FILTERS WEIGHT BELT/ HARNESS DIVING HELMETS

POWER SNORKELS AND REGULATOR CONVERSIONS HOW TO INSTALL MOUTHPIECES VIETNAMESE DIVE MASKS FIREMAN’S MASK CONVERSION PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER EMERGENCY AIR SUPPLY

SECTION 4 SNUBA SECTION 5 Real Life Examples 12 Volt Systems

Section 6 International Suppliers (Australia, UK) Safe CO2 Levels (in helmet diving) Some Elementary Physics

Section 1 Commercial Hookah Systems COST COMPARISON BETWEEN TANKS AND A HOOKAH SYSTEM FOR TWO DIVERS Aluminum 80 tank $150 Aluminum 80 tank $150 BC Back Pack $200 BC Back Pack $200 Regulator $200 Regulator $200 Pressure Gauge $75 Pressure Gauge $75 Tank Boot $15 Tank Boot $15 Total per diver $640 for two divers $1280 A commercially available system costs $799 ( Model KET80GH Engine Driven Air Compressor, supplies only one diver ) It comes without the expensive costs associated with scuba gear. Some other commercially available compressors: TG-280 Oil free Direct drive from 5.5 Honda, Very compact unit,18 Liter stainless steel air receiver, 18 cubic foot free air delivery Light weight Small: $4150.00 Large: $4250.00 BROWNIES THIRD LUNG Explorer 280 Series $2,394.95 Where to Find Commercial Hookah Gear http://www.keeneengineering.com http://www.akmining.com Don’t let these figures scare you I’ll show you how to build Several systems under $700, using brand new parts. If you

are really handy you’ll be able to build rigs under $200, using off the shelf parts, but requiring some work and ingenuity.

The Basics Of Hookah Diving Using Designated Hookah Equipment

HydroAir is a new concept that incorporates a lightweight efficient 12-volt powered air supply diving system, constructed of a heavy duty Marlex plastic.

Specifications: Body Dimensions 23" x 18" Floatation Dimensions 13" x 32" Weight 29 lbs. . Running time is 2 to 4 hours depending on consumer requirements. One diver up to 75 feet in depth Two divers up to 25 feet in depth.

Hookah Technical Details A floating apparatus for providing pressurized air to a submerged swimmer. A floatation device supports a combination

of two containers above the surface of the water. The top container, in the form of an inverted box, holds one or more electrically powered compressors. The bottom container holds a battery for powering the compressors. Water ingestion by the compressor(s) is prevented by placing the air intake inside the upper box, which forms an air trap. The air intake and compressors are isolated from any possible contamination or explosion risk from the battery outgassing, which is safely vented to the outside air from the lower compartment. Battery life is extended by pressure switch controls on the air compressor(s), running them on demand instead of continuously. 1. A floating apparatus for providing pressurized air to a submerged swimmer comprising: a) flotation means for supporting the apparatus on the surface of the water; b) compressor housing means mounted on the floatation means, comprising an air trap in the form of an inverted chamber comprising a plurality of sides and a top seal ably attached to the sides, a plurality of air vents in the sides of the air trap, below the midline thereof, such that the air in the air trap is uncontaminated by waves or spray, and mounting means for mounting one or more compressors attached to the air trap; c) battery housing means mounted to the floatation means adjacent to, but not in gas communication with, the compressor housing means, comprising a compartment suitable for housing at least one battery, mounting means for mounting the battery inside the battery housing means, and vent means for venting battery gasses from the inside of the battery housing means to the open air, in a location removed from the air vents of the compressor housing means; d) at least one battery, mounted to the mounting means of the battery housing means; e) at least one electric compressor, mounted to the mounting means of the compressor housing means, electrically connected to a battery in the battery compartment means, having an air inlet in the air trap portion of the compressor housing means, such that the air compressed is not contaminated by water or spray, and an air outlet adapted to supplying air to a submerged diver. 2. The floating apparatus of claim 1, in which there is more than one compressor. 3. The floating apparatus of claim 2, in which the compressors may be added to the device in a modular fashion by connecting the air outlets together. 4. The floating apparatus of claim 1 further comprising at least one pressure switch having a pressure sensor input connected to the air outlet, and an electrical input and an electrical output operatively controlled by the pressure sensor such that the electrical input is connected to the electrical output when the air pressure at the pressure sensor input is below a first pre-selected value, and the electrical input is disconnected from the electrical output when the air pressure at the pressure sensor input is above a second pre-selected value, the electrical input being connected to the battery and the electrical output being connected to the compressor, whereby the compressor is controlled by the pressure at the air outlet. 5. The floating apparatus of claim 4 in which there are a plurality of pressure switches in parallel. 6. The floating apparatus of claim 5 in which there is one pressure switch for each compressor.

Using Designated Hookah Equipment There are two air supply systems that are used for underwater diving activities. One system, known as Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA), involves the use of high pressure metal tanks which are worn on the diver's back while diving. The equipment used in SCUBA diving is quite technical in nature, and SCUBA gear should not be used by persons who have not become a certified diver involving expensive, specialized instruction. Without a certification card indicating completion of such a course, you cannot purchase compressed air. Of course, the SCUBA air system has its advantages as well. A diver using SCUBA gear is literally "an entity unto himself," since he carries his life giving air supply on his back at all times. He can go anywhere he chooses, completely free of any ties with the world topside. There are many times when an underwater diver does not need the total freedom that is afforded by the SCUBA air system, particularly in cases in which the diver is submerged in a limited area for long periods of time.

For these applications, the "Hookah" (Surface Air Supply) was invented. The Hookah air system uses no high pressure air tanks of the type worn on a diver's back. Instead, it uses a small air compressor which is located at the surface. It is commonly powered by a portable gasoline engine or electric motor, and the air is delivered to the diver via a floating air hose. With the Hookah system, the diver has an unlimited and nearly "cost free" air supply which will only stop flowing when the engine or motor that powers the compressor ceases to operate. This makes for a truly economical air system, which will quickly pay for itself when compared to the cost of refilling a SCUBA tanks every hour or so.

A Typical Hookah Air Assembly The only operating cost for a Hookah system is fuel, since the vast majority of Hookah compressor units are gasoline powered. It is not uncommon to get two hours diving time on a single gallon of gas, which shows just how economical the Hookah air system can be. Most Hookah divers will have a partner working "topside" as a safety man, and he can refill the engine's gas tank as it starts getting low. This will enable the diver to stay submerged so long as he desires.

The Air Compressor: The Hookah air system begins at the diver's air compressor. Hookah compressors are small, lightweight, and of simple design. They are commonly constructed of an aluminum alloy, and utilize a rubber diaphragm as the means of air displacement. There are also compressors that use a "piston" arrangement to displace air and these types generally deliver more air at higher pressures than the diaphragm models. The moving parts inside a Hookah compressor are lubricated

with Teflon for the life of the unit, and need no additional lubrication; to do so may actually damage the compressor. T80 Air Compressor belt driven Small one man compressor The air that is delivered by this type of Hookah compressor is pure, oil free air. It is however recommended that at least a 40 micron filter be included to remove any solid particles that may occur. This type of Hookah compressors contains sealed bearings rather than oil for lubrication which can contaminate the air supply. Most compressors utilize an “oil bath lubrication system which will contaminate the air supply. Hookah compressors operate at a relatively low pressure. The maximum pressure available from the higher capacity models is about 125 pounds per square inch. The higher the operating pressure, the lower the air output. Consistently high operating pressures (unless the unit specifically designed for high pressure use) will shorten the life of the compressor by a noticeable degree. Conversely, the LOWER the operating pressure, the greater the air output, and the longer the compressor life. A compressor should not be operated at high pressures unless a diver intends to be submerged at greater depths. If a diver is working at depths of 33 feet or less, he will need only 30 to 40 pounds per square inch for optimum operation of his regulator. Most Hookah compressors have a built in "pressure relief valve" which prevents excessive pressure from building up in the compressor head when the diver is only making a small "demand" on the compressor. This valve is usually preset at the factory at approximately 50 p.s.i., which will give the average diver at shallow depths enough air to operate his regulator while leaving enough pressure left over to allow for increased exertion. If a diver is breathing at a normal rate (light exertion), the pressure relief valve will occasionally "pop off" and shoot out a burst of air. This is normal, as it prevents excess buildup of pressure in the compressor head. If a diver is breathing heavily and is under physical exertion, he will be demanding all of the volume and pressure that the compressor can deliver. In this case, the pressure relief valve will rarely, if ever discharge excess pressure or "pop off." The type of Hookah compressor that is required for a given diving operation is dependent upon the extent of underwater physical exertion, the depth, and the number of divers that are connected to the system. A single diver under light exertion at shallow depths will require a relatively small air output that is measured in "cubic feet per minute," or "CFM". The same diver under heavy exertion will require additional air at a slightly higher pressure and volume. If more than one diver is connected to an air system, or if diving at greater than normal depths, more air volume at higher pressures may be required.

The Air Reserve Tank: The next major component in the Hookah air system is the reserve tank. This very important piece of equipment performs four vital functions:

1. The reserve tank operates as an air "reservoir," that supplies a constant volume of air at all times. If you are diving under heavy exertion and demanding a greater amount of air, the large volume of air in the reserve tank will supply the reserve air required. If you were breathing directly from compressor itself, your rate of inhalation might actually surpass the air volume provided by the compressor, and you would not get a sufficient amount of air. 2. The reserve tank functions as a cooling and condensation vessel. Few divers realize it, but the air emerging from a Hookah compressor is quite hot, and can actually reach temperatures as high as 190 degrees. As the air enters the reserve tank, it will expand and cool. This expansion process will also condense most of the water contained in the compressed air. Hookah compressors, because of their small size, do not have the capability to remove the moisture from the air and hence, they deliver air with an appreciable moisture content. The expansion process in the reserve tank allows the water to condense, ensuring that the diver breaths less moisture in the air. 3. The reserve tank also suppresses surges from the compressor or any temporary decrease in running speed. Often a the compressor's engine will run uneven due to moisture in the gasoline. The reserve tank can compensate for this by delivering an even flow of air. 4. And finally, the most important function of all. The reserve tank will contain enough pressurized air to give the diver a couple of minutes breathing time, should his compressor, or engine failure run out of fuel. Equipment breakdown is not a pleasant thing to consider while working underwater, but is always a possibility. In the event of an engine failure without a reserve tank in the system, a diver could experience an immediate loss of air that could lead to desperation and panic. Any experienced diver will tell you, that panic is the leading cause of drowning incidents. The Air Hose: The next component in the Hookah air system is the air hose. Hookah air hose is made of a special vinyl plastic construction, is resistant to the effects of oil, gasoline and sunlight that exists in the environment. Conventional rubber hose should never be used for diving, because it will gradually deteriorate and become toxic. Hookah hose commonly has an inside diameter of 3/8ths. of an inch. It is constructed of an inner liner of food grade vinyl wrapped with a nylon webbing reinforcement and covered with a heavy duty PVC abrasion resistant wall. Hookah hose is designed to prevent kinking and collapsing that could prevent the flow of air being shut off A quality Hookah hose will be colored a bright yellow or orange, for a high degree of visibility. It will also float, so that any excess hose not actually being used will float on the surface, completely away from the diver, reducing the possibility of entanglements on the bottom. For example, if you are diving in ten feet of water but are using a thirty foot length of air hose, the excess twenty feet will float on the surface, completely away from you. A quality Hookah air will not impart any "flavoring" to the air, and should meet “FDA and OSHA” requirements.

The Regulator: The regulator is an oral respiration device that is worn in the divers mouth. The regulator regulates the amount of air that is received by the diver each time he inhales. Because the divers nose is covered by his face mask, air must be inhaled through the divers mouth. There are two types of diving regulators, those designed for SCUBA use and those designed for Hookah applications. A SCUBA regulator is designed for use with SCUBA an air tank, and delivers maximum efficiency when operated at a pressure exceeding 100 p.s.i. They require a "first stage" valve assembly, attached to the SCUBA tank. The function of the first stage is to reduce the extremely high pressure of the air in the SCUBA tank from approximately 2,250 p.s.i. to approximately 180 p.s.i. This pressure then goes to the "second stage," which is the part that is worn in the diver's mouth. The second stage of a SCUBA regulator has a spring loaded "downstream" valve which delivers the correct amount of air to the diver when driven by an air pressure ranging from 100 to 250 p.s.i. A prospective Hookah diver must realize that SCUBA regulators CANNOT be used for Hookah applications without special modifications. A typical Hookah compressor operates in an average pressure range of 30 to 50 p.s.i., which is not enough pressure to drive the spring loaded downstream valve of a SCUBA regulator. A diver who already owns a SCUBA regulator, but who wishes to use it for Hookah applications, must take his regulator to a competent dive shop or repair station and get the regulator converted over for low pressure use; he should not attempt to do it himself. The conversion can be made by installing a set of low tension springs which will give maximum efficiency when operated at low Hookah pressures. A dive shop or repair station will also have the necessary test gauges, etc., to make certain the adaptation has been effective. A Hookah regulator is entirely different from a SCUBA regulator. It consists of a "second stage" only, which is fed directly from the output of the reserve tank via the air hose. There are no valve assemblies of the type that are used with SCUBA tanks. Hookah regulators employ a "tilt," or "pin" valve, which delivers a full air flow to the diver at a pressure as low as 30 p.s.i. This type of regulator is specifically designed for use with low pressure Hookah compressors. Hookah regulators, as are all modern regulators, are of the single hose, "demand" type. A "demand" regulator works on a relatively low volume of air, since it only has to deliver air as the diver breathes, or "demands" it.

Converting A SCUBA Regulator Converting a Scuba Second Stage Regulator for Surface Supplied Air (SSA) or hookah might be easier than you think. All it may be required are some pipe fittings. Until recently hookah ports were quite common, you may even own a regulator which has one built in. You may not even know your regulator is hookah ready. A few older regulators can be converted to hookah use by hooking up a hose to it. The regulator below left is a The DA

AquaMaster was introduced in 1958 and featured yellow hoses and a yellow mouthpiece. This was the first US Divers regulator with a hookah port, that allowed for surface supplied diving. And those regulators which did not come with a hookah port built in can easily be adapted. Hookah ports can be bought online from www.vintagescubasupply.com . The picture below right shows their kit #AMHA - U.S. Divers DA and Royal Aquamaster Hookah Port Adapter. Chrome plated brass nut and 1/4 inch nipple. Adapts the regulator for hookah operation, and can also be used to add a low pressure hose for second stage regulator, BC, or air nozzle. Price $12.00.

The Harness:

A regulator should not be used for Hookah diving unless it is in conjunction with a "chest harness." The harness serves three principle functions: 1. It keeps the air hose from getting in the diver's way when he is working underwater. The harness has a "back plate" which is automatically positioned over the center of the diver's back when the harness is worn. The back plate holds a "check valve," which acts as a "junction point" for the air hose and the regulator. Since the air hose terminates at the

Top Left DA AquaMaster Top Right Hookah Port Adapter Left : Another easy hack Nemrod twin-hose regulator made in the 1980s. It has one low-pressure port, which feeds the left (inhalation) hose.

ScubaMax are Hookah ready, Just turn the knob on the right to fine tune the regulator.

ScubaMax- XR-2002 Diver Adjustable Octopus This octopus is the same second stage provided on the RG-1002/XR2002 and the RG-1008/XR-2002 primary regulator sets. It has the bright yellow purge cover for easy identification. The diver adjustable feature will allow you to detune your regulator to prevent free-flows. When you are ready to use the regulator, a simple turn of the adjustment knob allows you to fine-tune the octopus for easy breathing.

diver's back, it prevents potential entanglements around the diver's body. 2. The regulator intake hose that attaches to the check valve prevents any pulling motion from the regulator while working underwater. For example; if a diver were moving around underwater and inadvertently came to the end of the air hose, the harness would absorb the shock and the regulator and would not be jerked from the diver's mouth. 3. The check valve that is found on the back plate performs the third very vital function. It acts as a "safety gate" by shutting down the air system, allowing the air to travel in only in one direction. Should a burst or leak occur in the air line somewhere between the output of the compressor and the input of the check valve, it could prevent a vacuum occurring in the mouthpiece of the regulator or cause a diver to breath in a large amount of water that could cause panic. “ Never, ever, dive without a harness and check valve!" Incidental Accessories, Hoses, Hints & Precautions: One accessory hose item you will need is a short length of hose for routing the air output from the compressor to the input of the reserve tank. The type of hose that is needed depends upon the compressor you are using. Diaphragm models that operate in the 30 to 50 p.s.i. range use a simple hose connector that is made of hookah air hose. The high pressure, high volume piston compressors that are capable of delivering pressure of 100 p.s.i., require a connector made of special certified "heat resistant steam" hose, due to the fact that these models discharge air at higher temperatures. We highly recommend that all hookah systems be equipped with a particle filter. The particle filter should allow nothing larger that 40 micron to pass. This filter is best located at the discharge of the air reserve tank. When setting up a Hookah air system, you will frequently need an array of metal fittings. For use around water, you should use stainless steel or brass fittings only. This is especially important when diving in salt water. Fittings made of ferrous metal will rust or corrode when used in, or near a water environment. If your Hookah compressor is powered by a gasoline engine, make every effort to ensure that the engine exhaust (which contains deadly carbon monoxide gas), is always placed DOWNWIND from the compressor. This will help prevent exhaust from being accidentally pulled into the compressor's air inlet. Always use a “snorkel” extension on any compressor that can elevate the intake of the air supply away from engine exhaust contaminates. Never use a gasoline powered compressor in confined areas, such as underneath piers, in close, narrow grottos, etc. This will prevent the exhaust gases from dissipating into the atmosphere safely. Also, never dive in an area where there is little ventilation or air movement. Take special precautions when diving in areas where the air is extremely still, as dead air spaces, or poor ventilation can cause exhaust gases to linger in the immediate area of the engine and compressor unit. Always install a long extension on the intake of your compressor to avoid the possibility of contamination of Carbon Monoxide Gas from the engine exhaust system. The air intake of a compressor must tower over the engine exhaust at a sufficient height or distance to avoid intake of engine exhaust gas. If this gas is inhaled even in small quantities for short periods, it can cause severe headaches and possibly result in sickness. In larger quantities it can kill you, so please be careful! If you are using Hookah equipment around salt water, be sure to rinse off all your components with freshwater afterwards. This includes your regulator, diving mask, harness, metal fittings, and air hose (flush it out on the inside as well as outside). A salt water environment will quickly corrode aluminum parts such as: Hookah compressors and gasoline engines. It is advisable to keep all metal components freshly painted and cleaned to avoid excess corrosion.

If you are using a gasoline powered compressor always shut of the engine before attempting to refuel. Do not attempt to refill the engine's gas tank while the engine is still running, as this will increase the possibility of spilling gasoline onto a hot engine, which could result in a potential fire or cause an explosion. A diver should always surface and shut off the engine first prior to refueling and allow time for the engine to cool down. Always use a funnel for refilling the gas tank, or a special spill proof gas container to prevent spillage. Every Hookah diver should understand the basic rudiments of engine and compressor maintenance, and should always keep his equipment in top condition. If you take proper care of your equipment, it will give you many years of trouble free service. Knowing how to work on your own equipment will also come in handy, should you experience any mechanical failure on a diving trip. It is a good idea to carry along some spare parts for your air compressor, and the necessary tools to make repairs. All of the basic "rules of the deep" that apply to SCUBA diving also apply to Hookah diving as well. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU DIVE ALONE! Always Hookah dive with a partner who owns his own regulator, harness and air hose. Make sure that his or her equipment as well as yours is attached to the air system at all times. If you were to experience underwater problems, your "diving partner" should be available to come to your immediate assistance. Even though no formal instruction is required to use Hookah equipment, we strongly recommend that all divers should take a “CERTIFIED SCUBA” course at your local county or diving supply store. You should also read books on the subject of underwater diving safety and study them thoroughly. This will further familiarize you with the "rules of the deep." WARNING: CARBON MONOXIDE GAS If you're considering diving with a "Hookah Compressor" , It is most important that you become aware of Potential Danger associated with exhaust emissions. We place a caution label on the engine, warning of dangerous engine fumes and also illustrate further warning in " Introduction to Hookah Diving" and Safety in Gold Dredging that is issued with the purchase of all diving equipment. WHAT IS CARBON MONOXIDE GAS? Carbon Monoxide is an invisible odorless gas which gives no warning of its presence. It is the product of the incomplete burning of any material such as Oil, Gasoline, Wood, Coal, etc. that contains carbon. WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF CARBON MONOXIDE EXPOSURE? Carbon Monoxide deprives the blood of its ability to carry oxygen throughout; the body. When Carbon Monoxide is inhaled , it chemically combines with hemoglobin, the oxygen carrier in the blood. Even if there is plenty of oxygen in the air, hemoglobin combines much more readily with Carbon Monoxide than with oxygen. As the oxygen level of the blood is reduced, the heart must pump faster in an effort to supply sufficient amounts of oxygen to the brain and other parts of the body. When the brain does not receive enough oxygen, symptoms of headache, dizziness and mental confusion occur. Further exposure to the gas causes lack of coordination, weakness and nausea. The final effect of excessive exposure are convulsions, coma and death.

Needless to say, we cannot emphasize strongly enough that caution must be excersized. Never dive alone, never dive in an enclosed area, or in an area where good ventilation is not eminent such as under piers, narrow grottos, under heavily overgrown brush or trees or in any area where a good breeze does not occur. Always make an effort to position your air unit to allow the prevailing breeze to carry any exhaust emissions away from the air intake of the compressor. Remember, Carbon Monoxide is the product of incomplete burning of gasoline and oil, so it most important to keep your unit properly running and clean. Never allow gasoline to overfill or spill anywhere near engine and compressor. THE SAFETY AIR SNORKEL DOES NOT ELIMINATE CARBON MONOXIDE GAS! IT ONLY AIDS IN THE REDUCTION OF FUMES. ALL THE SAFETY CAUTIONS MUST BE OBSERVED!

Product Keene engineering catalog Price T80 compressor $245.00

T80G complete system less hose, regulator, and harness $640.00 w 3.5 hp gas engine 5hp models are $799 LP120 Complete harness, regulator, tank and hose $242.00 include 20 foot hose a sixty foot kit will cost $635 Gas engine 3.5 hp manual start including S&H online source not Keene $200 or less Building it yourself: Gas engine, T80 compressor, and hose, harness, tank and regulator kit $700 you can do better by buying the same compressor and hoses on eBay and save $100 or more. Don’t let these prices scare you, I’ll show you other ways of building a reliable system saving you even more. Tip: If you own a scuba regulator, you can convert it to hookah diving you’ll have to take it to a competent dive shop and install a smaller spring I tinkered with mine and was able to get it to function properly with my hookah rig. Don’t try this unless you are familiar with regulators.

Section 2 Building Your Own Gear

BUILD YOUR OWN FLOAT AND SAVE!!! If you want to attach your rig to a float, you’ll need a pan (see the picture above ) buying one from a dealer can be costly. I purchased the float (I used an inner tube) from a discount auto parts store. The pan I built it myself of fiberglass. First I inflated the tube then I cut a cardboard circle and inserted inside the tube. then I cut a strip of card stock, I think it was 1/2- 3/4 inch and taped both ends. Next I placed it on top of the tube and taped it to the tube. I also taped the cardboard circle from the bottom, the bottom is the side with the valve. Next I brushed on PVA mold release agent, and let that cure. The next step was to lay the fiberglass. I used epoxy resin but you can substitute it with polyester resin, two layers were sufficient, but you might have to do three if using polyester resin.

Once the resin cured I peeled the pan from the tube and ground off the edge along the cardboard strip. Next I installed four eye bolts on the bottom of the pan, and cut four slits on the lip of the pan. Next I got four bungee cords, the ones resembling tank bangers with the ball and loop. I looped the bungee around the eye hooks and inserted the tube in the pan, then stretched the cord pulling the ball over the slit. After I installed the compressor assembly on top of the pan I noticed some of the bungee cord would pop out, and decided to install four more. Total cost for this project was under $50, a comparable unit from a manufacturer ranges from 85 to 120 dollars.

How to make your own dive Rig Select an OILLESS compressor with a suitable pressure tank and automatic pressure switch. They are readily available from places like Walmart, Home Depot etc., for $100 to $200 depending on size. For diving, the compressor should be at least 1 horsepower with a minimum output of 2.5 cubic feet per minute at 100 psi. Get a 2HP one if you want to dive with a buddy. The one pictured is 2.6 SCFM @ 90 PSI and should handle two divers. Unless it is a big boat, you are only going to be able to run it on shore power or I run mine for short dives from a 2KW inverter. Make sure you get one with a pressure shut-off switch. Some cheaper ones just run all the time with a safety valve that vents the excess and you don't want to be wasting that energy if you are running from an inverter. You will need a water separator /air filter fitted to the output from the compressor if it doesn't come with one. They are about $20 to $30. Due to humidity on a boat, a water separator with an automatic drain is a good feature but not essential. For a more versatile and permanent installation, you can purchase a belt driven compressor to run off your engine. I ran permanently installed PVC schedule 40 pipe to an outlet in the cockpit to make connecting quick and easy. You will need a bunch of quick connect air couplings to make assembly and disassembly easy when diving. Always use the all brass couplings, the galvanized ones will only last about 7 minutes. Even the "all brass" female couplers use steel balls so rinse with fresh water and spray a little WD40 on them to keep them working. The compressor should be bolted down so it doesn't move around while underway so remove the manual valve from under the air tank and plumb it to a ball valve to make draining water much easier. If you can plumb the outlet from the ball valve so it vents overboard it will be easier as it is hard to catch the water when it comes out under pressure. (How do I know that?) You will need to purchase a "Hookah" type diving set (harness/ regulator) that lets you dive to about 40 feet (this is the limit allowed with a low pressure system such as this one, more on the physics of pressure later on) with a compressed air line tethered to the boat. You can convert a scuba regulator to handle these lower pressures, scuba and hookah regulators are built the same way, the difference is the air valves‘ springs. Check your local dive shop - the valve is not that expensive - it is made to work from the 80 to 100 lbs per square inch from the compressor, but otherwise it is just like a scuba valve, There are no tanks and it comes with a small harness that anchors the air line to your back. The dive shop may try to sell you a stainless pressure equalization tank that floats on the water surface to provide cooling and give

you a small reserve if the compressor shuts down. You don't need this. Always use a long hose (40 ft minimum) for diving to provide cooling and you can hear the compressor from under the water so if it doesn't come on periodically you can head for the surface before the tank on the compressor runs out. I used regular neoprene style air hoses although some have reported problems using commercial air hoses so use with care or use the ones sold for diving. The biggest problems with hoses is hygiene, fungus will grow inside and can affect your lungs. I purchase clear hoses to see what’s going on inside. If I can’t clean them, I toss them out, and purchase new ones. I made float with a "DIVER DOWN" flag on it and terminated a (multiple) 50 foot air line at the float that came from the outlet in the cockpit. This line has a Tee and two couplings so you can plug in one or two diver lines. That way you can work in a radius around the boat and only use the final length of line for the vertical part of the dive which keeps a control on depth. The float also makes a great storage area for tools, fishing gear, and weights, out of the water for safety from predators. A set like this will still cost you $425 or more depending if you buy a hose/harness/regulator from a commercial kit, and this is assuming you go with a 20’ hose. As I explained before the hose can be bought at hardware stores at a reasonable prices, and you can adapt a scuba regulator to hookah use. The reservoir tank can also be dispensed with, as long as you use a long hose. The harness can be dispensed with as well. A simple attachment to your weight belt is all you need (more on this later). Hookah Diving Gear Manufacturers And Suppliers http://hookahdivegear.com/ Mailing Address:1162 SW Babcock Ave Port St Lucie, Fl 34953 http://www.akmining.com/ Alaska Mining & Diving Supply, Inc. 3222 Commercial Drive Anchorage, AK 99501 907-277-1741 Fax 907-279-6398 http://www.keeneengineering.com/ Keene Engineering Inc. 20201 Bahama Street Chatsworth Ca. 91311 USA Telephone: 818-993-0411 Fax: 818-993-0447 International Suppliers Australia Hookah Dive - http://www.hookahdive.com.au/ Supplies hookah diving equipment and accessories for commercial and recreational divers. Air Dive Manufacturers of hookah and Scuba gear. PowerDive Made in Australia by ACRONAUTIC Ltd. Reach ACRONAUTIC Ltd in Monaco by calling +33 632 017 764 or mail@acronautic.com

http://www.acronautic.com/Products.html PowerDive units range from deck mounted and free-floating units and are available through http://www.powerdive.co.nz/about.htm Hookahs, for years now we have sold and serviced the 12 Volt hookah systems known as Powerdive. They are made in Australia. Aquasea carries the full range of models http://www.aquasea.com.au/ Aqua Sea 6/155 Taren Point Road TAREN POINT SYDNEY NSW 2229 AUSTRALIA Ph: 61 2 95404774 Fx: 61 2 95262906 http://www.airdive.com.au 22 Coora Road South Oakleigh 3167 Victoria Australia Tel 03 9544 4735 Fax 03 9544 5108 airdive@airdive.com.au Western Australia PERTH Hookah Dive Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment, Hoses, Fittings and Filtration Sales and Service, Hydrostatic Testing. Contact: Ron Walton Unit 1, 16 Dellamarta Road, Wangara, W.A. 6065 Ph. 08 9309 3038 Fax. 08 9309 3066 W.A. Regional BROOME Workline Dive and Tackle Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment, Oxygen Equipment, Scuba Regulators, Airlines and Fittings Sales and

Service. Contact: Michael Smith Short Street, Chinatown Broome, W.A. 6725 Ph. 08 9192 2233 Fax. 08 9193 5839 BUNBURY Coastal Water Dive Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment and Filtration Sales and Service. Contact: Darryn Rigg 3/87 Albert Road, Bunbury, W.A. 6230 Ph. 08 9721 7786 Fax. 08 9721 1095 GERALDTON Batavia Coast Diving Academy Specialising in: Airdive Diving Equipment Sales and Service., Hydrostatic Testing. Contact: Trevor Beaver 153 Marine Terrace, Geraldton, W.A. 6530 Ph. 08 9921 4229

Fax. 08 9964 2229 EXMOUTH Exmouth Diving Centre Specialising in: Airdive Scuba Regulator Service, Airdive Oxygen Equipment, Hydrostatic Testing. Contact: David Hall Payne Street, Exmouth, W.A. 6707 Ph. 08 9949 1201 Fax. 08 9949 1680 BUSSELTON The Dive Shed Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment and Fittings. Contact: Peter MacDonald 21A Queens Street, Busselton W.A. 6280 Ph. 08 9754 1615 Queensland BRISBANE Systag Specialising in; Sales and Service of Airdive H.P and L.P. Valves, Fittings and Accessories.

Contact: Mark Chiara 112 Winston Road, Sheldon, QLD 4157 Ph. 07 3206 0408 Fax. 07 3206 0684 Queensland Regional CAIRNS BCCS Pty Ltd Specialising in: Compressor Repairs, Filling Valve Parts and Service, Airdive Filling Adaptors and Fittings. Contact: Bruce Cock 9 Quondong Close, Cairns, QLD 4870 Ph./Fax 07 4045 3777 Mobile: 040 716 3052 Airsure Australia Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment, Fittings and Oxygen Equipment. Contact: Paul Goodall 2/156 Aumuller Street Cairns, QLD 4870 Ph. 07 4041 4004

Fax. 07 4041 4005 Cairns Scuba Air P/L Specialising in: Airdive Scuba Diving Regulators and Oxygen Equipment, Hydrostatic Testing. Contact: Brad and Rosa Croft. Unit 4&5, 110 Buchan Street, Cairns, QLD. 4870 Ph. 07 4035 5035 Fax. 07 4035 5911 TOWNSVILLE Queensland Breathing Systems Specialising in: Airdive Diving and Compressor Equipment and Fittings, Sales and Service. Contact: Colin Hudson 29 - 33 Morehead Street, Townsville, QLD. 4810 Ph. 07 4721 3522 Fax. 07 4772 3119 SOUTH KOLAN (VIA BUNDABERG) Hydrostatic Testing Services Specialising in: Airdive High Pressure Products including Filling Valves, Airlines, Adaptors and Fittings.

Contact: John Arnott 24 Katrina Crescent, South Kolan, QLD, 4670 Ph. 07 4157 7307 Fax 07 4157 7307 E-mail; johnarnott1@bigpond.com South Australia ADELAIDE Scuba Commercial and Wholesale P/L Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Equipment and Fittings. Contact: Steve Robinson Unit 12, 38-38 Tikalara Street, Regency Park, S.A. 5010 Ph. 08 8346 0911 Fax. 08 8346 7897 South Australia Regional PORT LINCOLN Port Lincoln Skindiving Centre Specialising in: Hookah Diving Equipment and Fittings. Contact: Paul Martin 1 King Street, Port Lincoln,

S.A. 5606 Ph. 08 8682 4428 Fax. 08 8682 6627 North Lakes Dive Shop Specialising in: Hookah Diving Equipment and Fittings. Contact: Paul Twinkler 2/29 Jubilee Drive, Port Lincoln, S.A. 5606 Ph. 08 8682 1656 Fax. 08 8682 4736 WHYALLA Whyalla Diving Specilaising in: Airdive Airlines, Fittings and Hookah Equipment. Contact: Tony Bramley Ph 08 8645 8050 New South Wales SYDNEY Pro Diving Services Specialising in: Airidve Airlines, Fittings, Regulators and Hookah Equipment Sales and Service. Contact: Rick Poole

5/15 Anderson Street, East Botany, NSW 2019 Ph 02 9316 4013 Fax. 02 9316 6230 Pacific Commercial Diving Supplies Specialising in: Airdive H.P. Fill Control Equipment, Fittings, Sales and Service. Contact: Unit 33C 1-3 Endevour Road, Caringbah, NSW 2229 Ph. 02 9524 0466 Fax. 02 9524 0483 RFD Technologies P/L Specialising in: Airdive Fill Control Equipment, Fittings and Accessories. Contact: Unit A, 75 St Hilliers Road, Auburn, NSW 2144 Ph. 02 9643 8000 Fax. 02 9749 4634 New South Wales Regional MERIMBULA

Merimbula Divers Lodge Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Demand Valves, Airlines, Parts and Service. Contact: 15 Park Street, Merimbula, NSW 2548 Ph. 02 6495 3611 Fax. 02 6495 3648 Victoria MELBOURNE AB Ocean Divers Specialising in: Airdive Demand Valves, Airlines, Parts and Service. Contact: Warrick McDonald 237 East Boundary Road, Bentleigh East, Victoria 3165 Ph. 03 9579 2600 Alpha Diving Products Specialising in: Airdive L.P. Airlines and Fittings. Contact: Rod Smith 65 Levanswell Road, Moorabbin, Victoria, 3189

Ph. 03 9555 5777 Dive and Dive Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulators, Parts and Service. Contact: Peter Kafrouni 878 Springvale Road (inside J V Marine), Breaside, Victoria, 3195 Ph. 03 9769 0145 Scuba Repair and Service Specialising in: Airdive Service and Parts, Fittings and Custom Manufacture. Contact: John McCormick 65 Levanswell Road, Moorabbin, Victoria, 3189 Ph. 03 9555 5777 RYE The Scuba Doctor Specialising in: Airdive Parts and Service. Contact: Peter Fear 1/49 Peninsula Avenue, Rye, Victoria 3941

Ph. 03 5985 1700 Victoria Regional INVERLOCH L.T. Divers Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulator Sales, Parts and Service. Contact; Lex Thorbeck P.O. Box 187, Inverloch, Victoria 3996 Ph. 03 5674 2382 PORTLAND Professional Diving Services Specialising in: Airdive Hookh Regulator Sales, Parts and Service. Contact: 14 Townsend Street, Portland, Victoria 3305 Ph. 03 523 6392 Fax. 03 5521 7255 GEELONG Bay City Scuba

Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulators, Sales, Parts and Service. Contact; Ray Hill 20 Boundary Road, East Geelong, Victoria 3219 Ph. 03 5248 1488 Northern Territory DARWIN Air and Gas Systems Pty Ltd Specialising in: Airdive Equipment Sales and Service, Regulators, Adaptors and Airline Fittings. Contact: Dean Harris Lot 108 Pruen Road, Berrimah, N.T. 0828 Ph. 08 8947 3855 Tasmania NORTH HOBART Aqua Scuba Diving Services Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulators, Sales, Parts and Service, Airlines, Fittings and Adaptors. Contact: Ian Cooksey 271 Elisabeth Street, North Hobart, Tasmania 7002 Ph. 03 6234 5658

Fax. 03 6231 9948 WYNYARD Scuba Centre Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulators, Sales, Parts and Service and Filter Chemicals. Contact: Karen Griffiths 62 Old Bass Highway, Wynyard, Tasmania 7325 Ph. 03 6442 2247 Fax. 03 6442 2623 HOBART Southern Tasmanian Divers Specialising in: Airdive Hookah Regulators, Sales, Parts and Service. Contact: Murray Conlan 212 Elizabeth Street, Hobart, Tasmania 7000 Ph. 03 6234 7243 Fax. 03 6234 7243 HOBART The Dive Shop

Specialising in; Airdive Hookah Regulators, Sales, Parts and Service. Compressor Consumables. Contact: Ian Godleman 67A Argyle Street Hobart, Tasmania 7000 Ph. 03 6234 3428 Fax. 03 6234 3428 South Korea Woojungsa Ltd, Specialising in: Barfell Diving Airline. Contact Mr M.C. Shin. 140-15, 3F Okeum-Dong Songpa-Gu Seoul, 138-859 South Korea Ph. 82 2430 0678

SECTION 3 OPEN END (CONTINUOUS FLOW, FREE FLOW) SYSTEMS AND SHALLOW WATER DIVING The Basics The previous section showed you how to build a simple and inexpensive system of surface supplied air known as the ‘hookah type‘. By doing away with many components, the open ended system of surface supplied air is simpler and less expensive, Hookah complicates the system by using a regulator. The regulator maintains high pressure (80 psi +), requiring high pressure rated hoses, and increasing the workload on the compressor, therefore requiring a larger compressor, and drive. By switching to an open ended system the only impediment the compressor needs to overcome is the static water pressure. No need for complicated valves, auto shut off switches, regulator, expensive hoses... The purpose of the regulator in scuba gear is to conserve air. To a scuba diver air is limited to the amount stored in his tank(s). Hookah divers have an unlimited supply of air, the regulator only makes gear more expensive, heavier, and costlier. More on this later. There are several types of open ended system out there we’ll discuss a few, including but not limited to: Helmet diving Regulator conversion Vietnamese dive mask Fireman’s mask conversion Power Snorkel Homemade apparatus The helmet diving is one of the most exciting diving experiences you’ll ever have. Since you can only use this when upright you are limited to the bottom at all times. You really don’t dive but climb down a rope or ladder. The air is fed through a hose replenishing the helmet with fresh breathable air, and exhaled air is expelled out the bottom. Helmets are usually weighed down to overcome buoyancy, but few designers have begun to strap helmets to divers. The gutted out regulator, involves obtaining an old regulator, and removing a valve. That simple! The purge valve keeps water from filling the mouthpiece when you inhale and still lets out exhaled gas. The Vietnamese mask starts out as an average diving mask where an orifice has been bored or punched, and a brass fitting has been added connected to the hose. When you inhale air rushes though the brass fitting supplied by the hose, and the exhaled air purges out the sides of the mask. That simple. You must train yourself to breathe solely through your nose. They are mostly used in third world countries where the natives don’t have money to purchase or build adequate equipment, and they learn to breathe underwater through their noses. Anyone whose been accustomed to regulators and snorkels, will never be comfortable with these masks. The fireman’s mask conversion is a great hack. Besides giving you the ability to breathe with your nasal passage or mouth, you are also able to talk under water. Imagine being able to talk to your diving partner, or the surface, when you are working under water. Home grown systems are variants of regulator hacks. Except these are built from scratch out of PVC or copper pipe

fittings and mouth pieces. Will review some of these later. Shallow water diving is restricted to 30 feet/ 10 meters or less, and dives which pose no decompression risk, even after long or multiple dives, from which the un-weighed diver can safely return to the surface by his own efforts. Consult your diving chart accurate dive limits. The rules that apply to scuba also apply to shallow water diving. BUILDING YOUR OWN CONTINUOUS FLOW SYSTEM First you’ll need an oiless compressor. Almost anything will do. There are several good compressors on the market, you may also use Gast vacuum pumps, or similar, use the exhaust side instead of the intake. If you plan on adapting one to shallow water diving (shallow water means under 30 feet) then all you need is a 1/2 hp gas motor(a gas trimmer will do). For a single diver the requirements are 40 psi at 120 cfm. Remember we are talking shallow water diving, do not use open end gear for deep dives. A larger compressor with more horsepower can supply more divers and be used with hookah equipment, for deep dives. When buying a Gast pump/ compressor for shallow water diving choose one that will deliver high amounts of air at low pressure. The rotary teflon vane type rated 45 psi are good to 35’. Remember shallow water diving is restricted to 30 feet/10 meters. Safety: Install a check valve as a precaution on your air hose, preferably near the compressor. In case of compressor malfunction will keep it from sucking the air out of hose. THE MATH BEHIND OPEN END SYSTEMS One way to measure the volume is how long it takes to empty an inverted container, corrected for a pressure of 15 psi, the pressure at 32 feet deep, above atmospheric pressure at the surface of the water. One foot of water is about 1/2 psi.(Actually, it's closer to 14.7/32=0.459 psi per foot of water depth) The absolute pressure(Pabs.) would be: Pabs=14.7(sea level) + 1/2d, where d=the depth of water to the discharge depth of the compressor hose. Using: (P1)(V1)(T1)=(P2)(V2)(T2) (gas law), where pis pressure, V is volume and T is temperature in degrees absolute. V2=(P1)(V1)/(P2) where T1=T2 and the pressures are absolute pressures. Let P2=pressure of water at the discharge depth, and let P1 = 14.7 P2= (14.7 + 0.459d), so the equation becomes: V=(14.7)(V1)/(14.7 + 0.459d) So, if your compressor produces 200 cuft/hr at the surface, at a depth of 20 feet,

it will produce: V(@20 ft)=(14.7)(200)/(14.7 + 0.459 x 20) =2940/(14-7 + 9.18) =2940/23.88 =120(approx) cuft. If there is any heating of the air, during compression and subsequent cooling of the air, in the diver's supply line, then temperature must be taken into consideration and the T2 = the discharge air temperature (measured) and T1=exit air from the compressor output port. I don't think that the difference is too significant to the calculation, pressures are the overriding factors, since on the absolute temperature scale (459 degrees Absolute, Rankine, = zero Fahrenheit, so (example) 60 degrees F =519 degrees R). The minimum needed at 32 feet is 100-120 cuft/hour, but 150-180 cufh would BE SAFER. EXAMPLES OF HOMEBUILT APPARATUS

AIR FILTERS Next item on your system should be two air filters. Your diving rig needs to comply with Type 1 group D Air standards (see CGA pamphlet G-7). A simple air filter screwed into the intake will remove most particles from the air, and your compressor will last longer. Filter such as the one pictured (black) on the right may satisfy the Federal guidelines, but I recommend you pick up something like the one on the right (yellow). This one can be used on the high pressure (exhaust) side of the compressor and meets or exceeds Federal guidelines. The filter itself is a roll of toilet paper. No more trips to the hardware store only to find out your particular model is sold out. This simple filter kit can be picked up at any automotive supply store. It’s a lifetime oil filter all you replace is the toilet roll when you change the oil. All you need do to it is add a couple of pipe fittings to the filter, shown on the top right side. This filter also suppresses the maddening sound put out by the compressor a must if you plan to use a helmet. The one shown above is made from a Frantz oil cleaner. They are sold on eBay, starting at $9.99. The hose should be at least 50 feet long. It should be rated higher psi than its intended use. I prefer water hose the type approved for drinking water, not the garden type, although people have used those with no health hazards. The hose

should be at least 1/4“ ID (inner diameter). A hose that size will probably rob your rig of 7-8 psi. To avoid this you can switch to a shorter hose say 40 feet and a slightly larger ID perhaps 5/8. The drawbacks to switching to the latter is restriction of mobility, and expense. Don’t forget, keep your hoses clean! Should you not be able to thoroughly clean them throw them away and buy new ones.

The Weight Belt/ Harness Next piece of equipment is the dive belt. This is where you place you weights and an important piece of equipment, the relief valve/ harness. To build it you need a thick sheet of aluminum 14 gauge will do. Cut a square at least 1/2” wider than the belt. Then cut two slits on opposite sides of the square. Next bend the side down, and put it aside for now. The relief valve is mounted on a tee, you can purchase a brass fitting or build one yourself out of a block of brass or aluminum. To build one take a rectangular piece size not that important, drill a hole straight through on the narrower side, and then drill the second hole from the top deep enough to meet the first hole. Next thread the holes. I happened to use 5/8’ fittings on the sides and 1/4’on the top, you can build it to suit your needs. All you have left to do is attach the block or tee to the aluminum part you built earlier. If you built out of a block of brass drill four holes thread them and secure it with four small bolts. Depending on the type of metal used you may weld the parts together. The weight belt acts as a strain relief for the air hose. This will prevent the helmet, mask, regulator... being tugged off. The valve controls the air flow into the breathing apparatus. Surplus air is vented out, thereby providing comfortable flow to the diver. Always point the exhaust vent down! This will expel any condensation along with surplus air. The picture shows one of my prototypes with the discharge valve horizontally mounted, this flaw was corrected in future models. Another inherent flaw with this design was the inability to quickly release the weight belt in an emergency. while testing this belt I found it would take some effort to slip it off the harness. I would often have to turn the harness perpendicular in order for the belt to fall off. Not good thing when you are 30 feet deep and something goes wrong with the compressor, or the motor. There’s an easier and safer way to build an harness using pipe fitting bought at any hardware store. You’ll need to buy one 5/8” brass tee, two hose barbs a small section of brass pipe threaded on both sides, and a valve. You’ll have to find barbs matching the inner diameter of your hoses. Also purchase aluminum strip 1/8” thick. To fabricate the aluminum harness measure the width of your belt. Next measure and inch from the end of the strip and draw a line across the strip using a square. Next add 1/4” to width of belt measure from the line you just drew and draw another line. Last measure one more inch and draw another line. You should have 3 lines as in the picture below. Now cut the piece off at the third line. round off all four corners, and smooth out all rough edges. Centering the tee on the flat bar, mark four dots with a felt pen. First two should be on the inside corners of the tee and do the same on the back side of the tee proportionately farter apart, than the first dots. Now drill four holes that will accommodate four 10/24 bolts, or larger. Cut a section the same size as the middle section, it can be slightly smaller this is not critical. Round off the corners and smooth down rough edges. Align this piece over the first part and clamp both together. Using the four holes as guides drill four more on the smaller part. Last install the bolts on the larger part securing them with four brass nuts. The next step anneal one of the lines, order is unimportant, and bend it over a metal rod. A large mail fastened to a vise will do. Bend the piece so that it’s parallel to the longer part, quickly dip the hot par in water so as to restore rigidity to

the metal. Repeat the process so that your part looks like a “C”, with the bolts sticking out of the left side. The next step is to finish the tee assembly, if you haven’t done so already. Use Teflon tape to prevent leaks, and thread the parts together. Place the tee inside the four bolts and cover it with the smaller section of aluminum letting the bolts project through the holes. Tighten this down with four nuts, and ground the bolts off flush with the nuts. To permanently secure the nuts and bolts, use loctite, or try soldering them.

The improved Design Supply hose is located in the back, so as not to interfere with the diver. Shown here attached to the tee. The bleed off points down, this way moisture runs off and the last part on the tee is the breathing apparatus connection, conveniently pointing up. The “C” Strap is easier to fabricate, and safer to dive with. This type of an harness should be mounted opposite of the buckle with no other equipment restricting it. The idea here is to let the belt slip off in case of an emergency. In such an event hold on to the harness with one hand unbuckle the belt and let it slide off the harness. Although buying off the shelf parts might seem like a time saver it is in reality more work. The part is also bulkier, more cumbersome. The best possible combination is to build a “C” type harness, with a machined block of metal, with the bleed off facing down

Diving helmets Above is a rudimentary helmet made from a water heater. The one on the right was manufactured in Wisconsin. Came with electric compressor 12v or 110v, manual air pump, and could be used to 35 feet, 11.5 meters. Helmet diving offers a few advantages over conventional diving. Helmet divers are protected against impact. This is a plus when working in confined places. The helmet also prevents water from coming into direct contact with the divers face, hygienic while diving in polluted or contaminated water, thermo efficient in colder weather. Shallow diving helmets are mere inverted vessels designed to hold an air bubble. The air bubble provides oxygen to the diver, which is continuously replenished by the compressor. Almost any type of vessel will do, such as the example above. This was built from a high pressure air tank cut in half, an acrylic window added, and a hose attached. Regardless of the material used helmets will have a tendency to float, to compensate this lead weights are added to the helmet. To figure out the amount of lead needed turn the helmet upside down and weigh it, then fill it with water subtract the first figure from the latter. The figure you end up with is the amount of water the helmet displaces. The amount of lead needed is higher than the figure otherwise the helmet will fly off your shoulders. A well designed helmet will have an exhaust port in the back. This keeps the helmet from bobbing up and down, and all air bubbles from interfering with the diving experience. The helmet should have the air supply line connect below the diver’s nasal passage, this way if there’s a compressor failure an air bubble will remain in the helmet. Another feature of a well designed helmet is the looping of the airline inside the helmet over and down on the window. This keeps the window from fogging up. One other feature incorporated into many helmets is a silencer. The sound of the compressor inside the helmet is quite annoying, silencers make helmet diving bearable. The silencers employed are porous brass plugs used to muffle compressed air tools. MSC and grainger carry silencers in both brass and nylon.

This is what you need to muzzle the roar.

If this seems overwhelming there are several types of sandblasting helmets easily made into shallow water diving. many of them come with hose connections. If you purchase a used one you might have to replace the visor and seal it against leaks. POWER SNORKELS AND REGULATOR CONVERSIONS

A power snorkel differs from a regulator by eliminating the complex mechanism that regulates and conserves the air supply. Internally a power snorkel is hollow, with no moving parts at all. The only mechanical part is the purge valve, and this is situated in the exterior. This valve is very easy to make. these breathing pieces can be built by almost anyone.

The power snorkel above, was made from a 1/2" copper plumbing tee, with a brass adapter in one end (side arm) made from a brass reducer, (which fit a 1/2" NPT hose barb), a turned brass valve plate in the other side arm, that was pierced with a radial pattern of holes and a tapped hole in the center (#8-32 threads) over which was placed a thin round rubber diaphragm, which acted like a discharge valve, when the diver exhaled. When he was not breathing, all the air exited this valve. The center arm of the "tee" had a short length of 1/2" copper pipe brazed into it (all the fittings were braced together) over which a replacement scuba regulator mouth piece was slipped on and clamped with a plastic tie-wrap. The picture above right shows a regulator converted into a power snorkel. First the diaphragm/ purge bottom assembly were removed, leaving two orifices. The two holes left were filled with 5 minute epoxy, after curing, the same process was repeated on the reverse side. The needle/ plug were next removed, making this an open system. The orifice was still too small and the high pressure air flow assembly was cut off near the hose, so as to leave a 1/4’ hole. The only part left untouched was the purge valve. When converting scuba regulators into power snorkels, always remove the diaphragm, as these are not designed to withstand internal high pressure. In an scuba or hookah regulator internal external pressure remains equal. Slight deviations caused by divers inhalation or exhalation and ambient (diving, surfacing) results in air influx from the tank, or purging and balance is restored. On the other hand a power snorkel operates at a higher pressure than the ambient, a potential hazard to a thin diaphragm.

HOW POWER SNORKEL WORKS

The first picture (top left) shows the operation of the power snorkel during inhalation. As the divers inhales pressure decreases inside the snorkel keeping the purge valve closed, pressure is equalized by the supply line. The second picture (top right) shows the subsequent exhalation. As the diver exhales the pressure in the mouthpiece becomes higher than the ambient, thereby opening the purge valve all spent air and some replenishing air vents out. The process is then repeated. The second set of pictures shows a similar type of power snorkel. Instead of the purge valve located in an exposed setting, this one is protected. Another important departure from the prior example instead of a rubber circle a flexible hose was used as a valve. This hose is clamped down by a wire tie near the tee, so the air bubbles shoot away from the diver. A power snorkel can be built of different materials, such as PVC:

The parts shown are not glued, the finished product is slightly shorter. You can substitute the 3/4" PVC parts for 1/2", without compromising comfort. Parts Needed Brass Hose Barb (not shown) Mouthpiece (not shown) 1/2X3/8" Male pipe to FIP bushing (brass optional) Nibco PVC-1 NSF 3/4X1/2" this part is threaded on the inside 3/4X3/4X1/2" Tee Small section of 3/4" PVC pipe 3/4" end cap Hose latex. Any flexible hose will do. First you'll need to cut a section of 3/4", 27mm PVC pipe. The size is not crucial. The one shown was 2 3/4", 7cm long. You should now drill four holes 3/4" away from one of the ends. This will allow enough clearance to glue the end cap. next peel off any labels, clean the parts and glue them in the order shown. insert the hose in the pipe prior to gluing the end cap. You may not be able to slip the hose over the end cap if you glue it first. Clamp the hose near the tee with a wire tie. Slip a mouthpiece over the unused (1/2") part of the tee, you may have to stick one of your fingers inside the mouthpiece to spread it out. Clamp this down also using a wire tie. Your last step is to thread the brass FIP bushing, and the hose barb, and your power snorkel is complete The order in which the parts are shown, from left to right: FIP bushing, NSF 3/4X1/2", 3/4X3/4X1/2" Tee, 3/4" PVC pipe, 3/4" end cap. remove all the labels clean the parts using recommended cleaner, and glue them. Insert hose in pipe prior to gluing end cap.

The finished product should look like the one in the middle. As tested the rubber hose used was a universal tire tube for a 26" bicycle tire. This item was bought at Walmart for less than $3 and is flexible enough to allow slipping over the end cap. Further testing revealed the need for streamlining, this really is a matter of aesthetics. By cutting the tube section shorter The holes can be drilled on the end cap, after gluing all the parts together, this will make the power snorkel much shorter, comparable to the copper piece pictured on top. The example on the bottom shows a refined design using a 3/4X3/4X3/4" Tee instead of 3/4X3/4X1/2" Tee, the mouthpiece fit better over the 3/4 pipe nipple instead of the somewhat wider 1/2" end of the Tee. Rubber hose was left intentionally out to show detail. Newly built power snorkels have to be broken in. The rubber membranes may not adhere to the snorkel and you may experience some water seeping in as you inhale. Short breaths will purge out any moisture, and prevent great amounts of water flooding your snorkel. As you dive deeper the water pressure eventually squeezes the membranes against the plastic parts sealing the exhaust holes. In case of the brass snorkel the newly installed purge valve would warp, removing and flipping the valve had no effect, installing a small washer over the valve fix the problem Unlike hookah power snorkels work without a demand valve. There's a drawback when first entering the water the diver may experience a decrease in the volume of air. This will go away when pressure inside the hose equalizes static water pressure.. FITTING MOUTHPIECES Mouth pieces are usually oblong, some old ones were round shaped but finding these is difficult. Luckily mouthpieces are made of very flexible latex rubber, and can easily mold to any shape.

Picture shows an simple free flow breathing apparatus about to be fitted with a modern mouthpiece. Notice how the pieces seem impossible to mate?

First take a section of hose 3/4 “ and inset it into your breathing apparatus. This may take some effort on your part, as this type of clear hose is hard to conform. Having done that proceed to insert the mouthpiece over the hose. Squeeze the sides of the mouthpiece and push it in.

The copper part happens to be 1/2 “ the same size as the power snorkel, on 3/4 inch parts it fits like a glove. The only step left is to strap a wire tie so the parts don’t come apart. If you want to spend a little more money and buy a clamp from a dive shop, or extract one from old octopus or BCD, and use it in place of a wire tie.

Vietnamese Dive Masks Vietnamese dive masks are one of the easiest and cheapest diving apparatus one can build. All Vietnamese dive masks start out as regular dive masks. The air supply has is then fed to it. The example above shows an old mask where a hole has been punched out. and a 1/4” hose and 3/8” washer has been inserted. Holding the Barb is a bent piece of aluminum that has been drilled on one side, and a 3/8” nut rethreaded to 1/8” NPT threads. This is connected to your weight belt using a 1/4” hose. The bent piece of aluminum keeps the lens clear of condensation, by diverting fresh air to the lens, at the same time deflecting air away from the face. This minimizes dry eyes, one side effect of using these masks. This type of breathing apparatus might be useful aboard small boats for underwater repairs. other uses of these masks include pool lining repair, aquaculture, spear fishing or any other type of diving involving short, and shallow dives.

Fireman’s Mask Mask on the right has been modified for diving Fireman’s masks make great diving masks. With these you can breathe and talk at the same time. They also allow you the comfort of breathing normally using both passages. The conversion of the fireman’s mask is simple. remove the hose from the mask. Using a circle cutter cut a plastic plug. Almost any type of plastic will do, but softer material is easier to work with. Next thread a 1/4’ hose barb though the hole, then insert this in the snout of the mask ( hole left by the removed hose), and secure it with a clamp. The last step is to secure the air hose to the barb with a clamp. Almost any type of a mask with a full face shield can be converted to diving use. Some industrial type respirators will

have two filters on both sides of the mask, use two plugs and clamps, and choose which side you’d prefer the hose installed. If a mask doesn’t have a purge valve one can be built out of a Sevylor inflatable valve repair kit. To do this extract the valve cap, so as to allow air to pass through, insert it in the hole left by one of the filters and clamp it. Unlike hookah Fireman mask conversions work without a demand valve. There's a drawback when first entering the water the diver may experience a decrease in the volume of air. This will go away when pressure inside the hose equalizes static water pressure.

This item was a free flowing mask used by the US Navy. It was a full face mask allowing the diver to breathe normally. The mask featured a purge valve, similar to the Fireman’s conversion mask. PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER A shallow water diving system dispenses with the compressed air tank by cooling the compressed air over a long hose, and purging out any condensation at the harness. By removing the regulator from the system, high volume low pressure compressors can be used. By operating at lower pressures almost any hose can be used, and anyone can build a working hookah like rig.

First item on the list is the compressor #2, your filters #1 should comply with Federal regulations, you don’t have to follow my example. Next item is a check valve #3, then the hose #4, which connects to the harness #5 and belt #6. Attached to your harness is a small hose leading to a power snorkel #7, or helmet, mask etc. You’ll also need one pressure gauge, to alert the monitor of any leaks or malfunctions. The item labeled #8 is your emergency air which will discuss in detail next. EMERGENCY AIR SUPPLY Emergency air comes in two types, manual pump and compressed air cylinder. The manual pump needs to put out enough volume to supply the diver. Suitable pumps include certain inflatable boat pumps. If you purchase a leaky air pump then install a check valve, so as to stop compressed air from reaching the pump. The same can be accomplished with a manual valve. The other type of emergency air is a bottle of compressed air. This can be a scuba tank, though it is a little bulky, a pony bottle is more desirable. Some shallow water divers even use tanks used by the beverage industry

for this purpose. The example above shows a manual system with a pony bottle. If the compressor fails the monitor open the valve of the pony bottle and releases a comfortable amount of air depending on the amount of divers, a flow meter is helpful to determine the amount but now necessary. For systems where surface monitors are impractical an automatic release is needed. Automatic systems are a bit more complicated, involving tying in a small compressed air tank with an adjustable regulator set to a slightly lower head pressure than the compressor is generating, if the line pressure drops the valve opens automatically releasing air into the system. An inexpensive system such as described can be built using a regulator from a propane grill. Gas regulators are those UFO shaped metal objects at the end of the hose. They keep the same pressure flowing no matter how much pressure is in the tank, if the pressure in the hose drops the regulator releases more gas. This is all we need to accomplish with our automatic life saving device. Only problem is the wide range of pressures involved in different systems. Preferably if your rig puts out on average 50 PSI you’ll want the regulator to release air when pressure drops at 40 PSI. Typical gas regulators operate between 5-10 PSI, adjustments are necessary to bring this up to our needs. The type to buy is one that is bolted together so it can be adjusted. If you are not acquainted with these please take it to someone who is competent. Typically gas regulators operate almost like a scuba regulator, to adjust them is a matter of trial and error, you’ll need a pressure gauge, to determine the right setting. With any luck you might not even have to tinker with it much. To operate a rig with an automatic emergency air system, first start the compressor and then open the air valve. The pressure in the line is higher than the set pressure of the regulator, no air is released from the tank. To shut off the system turn the tank valve off first otherwise the regulator will sense a drop in pressure and release air. I have bought two propane regulators, real beauties on eBay for $8 plus $4 S&H. they were brand new real gems. The seller was selling a lot of six. You’re not going to find anything like that at any discount retailer who have the nerve to charge $15 for cheap mass produced, metal stamped regulators. A small tank will do for one diver, there are a few suitable, but not intended for scuba diving tanks, however there’s an obstacle. Filling unconventional tanks can be a problem. Scuba shops will not handle them. They can be filled at home, this is a complex subject. To recommend a list of tanks and going into details about putting together a compressor is quite a task. Look for my upcoming ebook on filling your own scuba tanks, doing visual inspections and... Another concern is over pressurizing these tanks. Most propane regulators operate with the inlet pressure of about 240 PSI. This figure might be different in some countries. When filling your tanks do not surpass violate the manufacturer’s specifications. At 240 PSI a small tank will allow one diver to surface from a shallow dive without running out of air. Some builders even go as low as having a tank with only 100 PSI, which is within most mass produced oiless compressors range, and can be filled at home without having to build high pressure compressors, to refill emergency air tanks.

SECTION 4 SNUBA

SNUBA Technical Details An underwater diving system including a raft configured to support and carry a compressed air tank in such a manner that

the raft is extremely stable and is self-bailing and self-righting because of its configuration, a diving harness communicating with the on-board compressed air source so that the diver is tethered and tows the raft while diving underwater at nominal depths up to 20 feet, for example. The diving system described herein bridges the gap that exists between snorkeling and scuba diving. 1. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a light-weight raft, a source of compressed gas embodied as a scuba type tank of compressed gas normally carried on the back of a diver carried on said raft, a gas line from said source to an underwater diver, and harness means connecting an end of said line, remote from said gas source, to the diver, whereby while the diver explores underwater, said raft is towed along and forces associated with towing are dissipated by said harness. 2. The system of claim 1 wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said source of compressed gas is disposed, said compartment provided in depending relation from a deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas source lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting. 3. The system of claim 2 wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 4. The system of claim 3 wherein said compartment has a recessed configuration complimental to an external configuration of said source of said compressed gas, a cover seals access to said compartment, and said source of gas includes first and second lines extending there from under the raft and entering a nose portion of said raft through said deck thereby providing a diver occupant area unobstructed by hose lines. 5. The system of claim 4 wherein said nose portion includes an area for receiving a length of line communicating with said source of compressed air, a cover overlying said air line area including an accurate opening adjacent said nose of said raft allowing the line to pass there through and thence downwardly into the water, said nose portion further including a sight window to allow the diver a view of the underlying underwater terrain. 6. The system of claim 5 wherein said raft is formed from first and second pontoons having a rear portion of substantially elongate cylindrical dimension, a nose portion angled upwardly and inwardly to form a substantially "V" shaped nose, thereby defining a hydrodynamic shape for stable, in-line towing, and said deck includes a plurality of inflated passageways interrupted by a pattern of pressed seams thereby minimizing any formation of a central crown with respect to said deck, and a pillow interposed between said sight window and said seams for providing support of the diver when viewing through said sight window, said harness means including first and second loops adjacent a lower back area of the diver directing said air line over a shoulder of the diver and providing resistance to a tendency for removal of a regulator from a mouth of the diver at a terminal portion of said air line should said air line encounter a snag. 7. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a raft including a pair of outboard pontoons interconnected by a membrane defining a deck, compressed gas means depending from said deck whereby said deck is unobstructed to support a diver thereon, a gas line extending from said raft to a diver and coupled to said gas means, and harness means on the diver distributing forces generated from the diver towing the raft with said gas line. 8. The system of claim 7 wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said compressed gas means is disposed, said compartment provided in depending relation from said deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas means lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting. 9. The system of claim 8 wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft, providing a self-bailing raft and boarding ease for the diver. 10. The system of claim 9 wherein said compartment has a recessed configuration complimental to an external configuration of said compressed gas means, a cover seals access to said compartment, and said compressed gas means includes first and second lines extending there from under the raft and entering a nose portion of said raft through said deck thereby providing a diver occupant area

unobstructed by hose lines. 11. The system of claim 10 wherein said nose portion includes an area for receiving a length of line communicating with said compressed gas means, a cover overlying said air line area including an accurate opening adjacent the nose of said raft allowing the line to pass there through and thence downwardly into the water, said nose portion further including a sight window to allow the diver a view of the underlying underwater terrain. 12. The system of claim 11 wherein said raft is formed from first and second pontoons having a rear portion of substantially elongate cylindrical dimension, a nose portion angled upwardly and inwardly to form a substantially "V" shaped nose, and said deck includes a plurality of inflated passageways interrupted by a pattern of pressed seams thereby minimizing any formation of a central crown with respect to said deck, and a pillow interposed between said sight window and said seams for providing support of the diver when viewing through the sight window, said harness means including first and second loops adjacent a lower back area of the diver directing said air line over a shoulder of the diver and providing resistance to a tendency for removal of a regulator from a mouth of the diver at a terminal portion of said air line should said air line encounter a snag. 13. An underwater diving system comprising in combination: an inflated raft containing air making said raft buoyant and supporting a source of compressed gas, said gas source having a plural stage valve, a gas line extending from said source through said plural stage valve and to a diver, a mouthpiece regulator between the diver and said gas line, and harness means connected to said gas line and worn by the diver including a strap which directs said gas line from a lower back area and over a shoulder of the diver. 14. The system of claim 13 wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said source of compressed gas is disposed, said compartment provided in depending relation from a deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas source lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting. 15. The system of claim 14 wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 16. The system of claim 15 wherein said compartment has a recessed configuration complimental to an external configuration of said source of said compressed gas, a cover seals access to said compartment, and said source of gas includes first and second lines extending there from under the raft and entering a nose portion of said raft through said deck thereby providing a diver occupant area unobstructed by hose lines. 17. The system of claim 16 wherein said nose portion includes an area for receiving a length of line communicating with said source of compressed air, a cover overlying said air line area including an arcuate opening adjacent the nose of said raft allowing the line to pass there through and thence downwardly into the water, said nose portion further including a sight window to allow the diver a view of the underlying underwater terrain. 18. The system of claim 17 wherein said raft is formed from first and second pontoons having a rear portion of substantially elongate cylindrical dimension, a nose portion angled upwardly and inwardly to form a substantially "V" shaped nose, and said deck includes a plurality of inflated passageways interrupted by a pattern of pressed seams thereby minimizing any formation of a central crown with respect to said deck, and a pillow interposed between said sight window and said seams for providing support of the diver when viewing through said sight window, said harness means including first and second loops adjacent a lower back area of the diver directing said air line over a shoulder of the diver and providing resistance to a tendency for removal of a regulator from a mouth of the diver at a terminal portion of said air line should said air line encounter a snag. 19. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a light-weight raft, a source of compressed gas carried on said raft, a gas line from said source to an underwater diver, and harness means connecting an end of said line, remote from said source, to the diver, whereby while the diver explores underwater, said raft is towed along and forces associated with towing are dissipated by said harness, wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said source of compressed gas is disposed, said compartment provided in

depending relation from a deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas source lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 20. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a light-weight raft, a source of compressed gas carried on said raft, a gas line from said source to an underwater diver, and harness means connecting an end of said line, remote from said source, to the diver, whereby while the diver explores underwater, said raft is towed along and forces associated with towing are dissipated by said harness, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and a compartment containing said gas depends adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 21. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a raft including a pair of outboard pontoons interconnected by a membrane defining a deck, compressed gas means contained by said deck, a gas line extending from said raft to a diver and coupled to said gas means, and harness means on the diver distributing forces generated from the diver towing the raft with said gas line, wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said compressed gas means is disposed, said compartment provided in depending relation from said deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas means lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft, providing a self-bailing raft and boarding ease for the diver. 22. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a raft including a pair of outboard pontoons interconnected by a membrane defining a deck, compressed gas means contained by said deck, a gas line extending from said raft to a diver and coupled to said gas means, and harness means on the diver distributing forces generated from the diver towing the raft with said gas line, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and a compartment containing said gas means depends adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft and boarding ease for the diver. 23. An underwater diving system comprising in combination: a raft having a source of compressed gas, a gas line extending from said source to the diver, and harness means connected to said gas line and worn by the diver including a strap which directs said gas line from a lower back area and over a shoulder of the diver, wherein said raft includes a compartment within which said source of compressed gas is disposed, said compartment provided in depending relation from a deck area of said raft, whereby the weight of said compressed gas source lowers the center of gravity of said raft and enhances the raft's ability to resist capsizing and promulgates self-righting, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and said compartment is disposed adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 24. An underwater diving system comprising in combination: a raft having a source of compressed gas, a gas line extending from said source to the diver, and harness means connected to said gas line and worn by the diver including a strap which directs said gas line from a lower back area and over a shoulder of the diver, wherein a trailing portion of said raft is open ended and a compartment containing said gas depends adjacent thereto, thereby adjusting the trim of said raft and providing a self-bailing raft. 25. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a raft including a pair of outboard pontoons interconnected by a membrane defining a deck, compressed gas means contained by said deck which said deck has a sight window passing there through, a gas line extending from said raft to a diver and coupled to said gas means, said gas means embodied as a scuba type tank of compressed gas normally carried on the back of a diver, and harness means on the diver distributing forces generated from the diver towing the raft with said gas line. 26. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a light-weight raft, a source of compressed gas embodied as a tank of gas under pressure which has a plural stage valve, said tank carried on said raft, a gas line from said source to an underwater diver, and harness means connecting an end of said line, remote from said gas source, to the diver, said gas line end remote from said tank having a mouthpiece regulator, whereby while the diver explores underwater, said raft is towed along and forces associated with towing are

dissipated by said harness and the diver breathes through said mouthpiece regulator. 27. An underwater diving system, comprising in combination: a light-weight raft dimensioned to support a person, an independent source of compressed gas embodied as a scuba type tank of compressed gas normally carried on the back of a diver carried on said raft, a gas line from said source to an underwater diver, and harness means connecting an end of said line, remote from said source, to the diver, whereby while the diver explores underwater, said raft is towed along and forces associated with towing are dissipated by said harness.

What Is SNUBA? Snuba is a worldwide patented shallow water dive system that bridges the gap between snorkeling and scuba diving. Since the introduction of Snuba in 1988, over 3.5 million people around the world have participated in a Snuba diving adventure. A leading market research firm has estimated that the worldwide snorkeling market approaches 40 times that of the scuba market. To tap this extremely large customer base, Snuba has incorporated four key elements in its proven approach: * Maximum possible safety * Widest possible customer appeal * Greatest profitability * Ease of training and application to the snorkeling market Typical training (it’s more of an orientation) and dive takes less than an hour, and costs $40! One of the last great bargains on Earth. The Equipment The Snuba dive system has 2 major components: The flotation system and the air supply system. The flotation system consists of a custom inflatable raft with a recessed compartment in the raft keel, which houses a compressed air cylinder. The cylinder compartment is designed to allow easy operator access and rapid cylinder changes. The air cylinder location adds mass below the water line, providing added stability. The raft is inflated using a custom air inflator nozzle which is connected to the air cylinder. At the bow, the raft flies either the U.S. or international diver-down flag. The raft and diver-down flag clearly indicates the position of the raft and Snuba participants to anyone on the surface. This visibility is particularly useful to surface-support staff and is a significant safety feature in areas where boats or jet skis may be operating. The air supply system employs a standard scuba compressed air cylinder. The Sherwood "Brut" air regulation equipment is coupled to high quality, positively buoyant air lines, which limit the dive depth to a maximum of 20 feet (6+ meters). The participants are trained to use the air lines for hand-over-hand controlled ascents to the surface. The diver wears a lightweight, quick-release harness to dissipate the forces associated with towing the raft. The tow point is located positioned between the divers shoulder blades. The design of the harness also prevents accidental removal of the regulator from the diver's mouth. Each Snuba system is designed to accommodate up to three divers.

Raft

Air delivery system

A guide dragging two rafts ashore Unfortunately the equipment isn’t sold to the public. Snuba type setup can be built using all the equipment discussed earlier. Some sellers of diving equipment sell long hoses which anyone can hook up to their first stage and use it in the manner described above. These type of set ups are also referred to as hookahs. See example below.

Air Line Hookah Tank System costs $100 Find out more at: http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-152/031780/AIR-LINE-HOOKAH-TANK- "http://www.airlinebyjsink.com/scubagear.html" http://www.tarpoondivecenter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HOO-TAR There’s still those annoying scuba tanks you have to deal with, but everything else fits in with shallow water diving. Some shallow water divers use rigs like these to test their equipment in the winter time at local YMCA’s indoor swimming pools. These offer a safe alternative to hookah compressors, where their use pose a safety and health threat, such as in confined spaces, including, under piers, grottoes, quarries... Another advantage of snuba is that is relatively safe and easy requiring no certification. Making this type of sport available to those not PADI certified. This does not mean you should dive without training. Remember compressed air can be dangerous even at shallow depths. Snuba training including one dive is only $40, well worth every penny.

Section 5 Some Real Life Examples Of Homebuilt Equipment Building a 12 Volt System Master Flow model MF-1050 air compressor Industries MV50 Superflow MV50 Same compressor different names.

The Masterflow MF-1050 compressor is sold at your local Pep Boys, Checkers and several websites catering to backyard mechanics. The product is made by DV Industries and is sold under different brands. Industries MV50 and Superflow MV50. The price of the unit starts off at $50 at your nearest Pep Boys (this has gone up since this ebook was first written) to $69 at a few websites. Checkers sells Superflow MV50 for $45 (Checker's model CHK MV50). I also found one website which sells it for only $25 the url is: http://www.dv-innovations.com/products/hv_50.htm

The compressor can deliver up to 72 liters per minute. Maximum output 120 PSI. Continuous run time 40 minutes. A battery rated 30 Amp or higher is needed to run the compressor. The compressor is very well made. It comes with built in fuse protection, water proof switch and a fast hose connection. Also included is a canvas bag. The alligator clips must be removed in order to build a safe compressor. These kept arcing during tests knocking off the compressor. Instead of alligator clips battery terminals were soldered in their place. Next we tried installing a hose. First we attempted to remove the male hose connector on the compressor and tetatively replace it with a hose barb. After a few tries we decided to keep the fitting for fear of cracking the compressor. Our attention then focused on the female connector attached to the original hose. We next cut the hose close to the ferrule. Then peeled away the ferrule by holding the piece with vise grips and rolling off the metal jacket with a pair of needle nose pliers (wear gloves). Don't clamp the vise grips on the movable ring, this will likely ruin the part. The next step was to insert a 1/4 inch hose in the nipple and a hose clamp was tightened to secure the hose. After the compressor was broken in (new compressors need to be broken in to eliminate the risk of small micron particles), it was tested on a pool at first and then in a quarry up to a depth of 20 feet.

An inexpensive float can be built out of a PVC raft and scraps of wood. Start by inflating a small inflatable boat. Next make a template of the inside of the raft by tracing the seams on the bottom onto a sheet of cardboard or craft paper. Make sure your template is slightly smaller than the inside. Now transfer the outline to a 1/4 inch sheet of plywood, and cut it. Sand or file down any sharp edges. You'll need a plastic storage bin if you want to use this float in salt water, which will determine the dimensions of mounting bracket(see picture on the left). All you need really is two small lengths of wood spread out wide enough to fit the plastic container and the battery box. Now attach these two lengths of wood from the bottom side using wood screws. Countersink these so as not to puncture the raft. Waterproof with two coats of polyurethane, or enamel if you prefer color over natural look. Finish it by adding eye bolts to the wooden rail, these will hold the bungee cord used to strap down the battery and compressor.

Build a tray using 1/4 inch plywood to fit inside the lid of plastic container. The tray will be used to secure the compressor, and will extend the life of the container. Next drill a hole to fit the snorkel. Use the cheapest PVC type tube you can find, glue two elbows at each end. Add a small length of pipe to one end and insert it into the hole. Now secure the pipe to the container using plastic or copper straps, and some nuts and bolts. seal off the pipe using silicone chalk or similar compound. If you are wondering why a second elbow was used, this keeps out any rain or surf. Also drill a hole for the wires and seal this as well. Please disregard my arrangement of the wooden rails, the only way to fit battery and compressor was to install them perpendicular to each other. This sequence shows the power snorkel in action.

Here the diver (author) inhales and all the air goes into his lungs. The valve is closed and no air comes out.

The second picture shows the moment at which the diver's lungs are getting full, and some excess air is escaping from the valve.

Here the diver has stopped inhaling all together, and all the air from the compressor is venting out.

Now the diver is exhaling. The air escapes through the snorkel, and the purge valve on his mask.

The equipment is so easy to use my 12 year old nephew started diving with it after a few minutes of instruction. Unlike hookah power snorkels work without a demand valve. There's a drawback when first entering the water the diver may experience a decrease in the volume of air. This will go away when pressure inside the hose equalizes static water pressure.

International Suppliers of 12 Volt High Volume Compressors Australian Suppliers TYPHOON 150 PSI COMPRESSOR Check out picture below. [TYP150 $180.00AUD] http://www.injectacarb.com.au/

Compressor Type Specifications

Typhoon 150 /TYP150 150 PSI, 150 LPM, 12VDC, 45 Amp. Twin Pump.

Master Flow model MF-1050 Industries MV50 Superflow MV50

120 PSI, 72 LPM. Single Pump.

Specifications Input 12V DC Max Pressure 150PSI Max Flow Rate 150L/min Max Current 45Amp 600W permanent magnet motor Sealed Bearings Thermal cut out protection Heavy duty plastic storage case 6m coiled hose with gauge Easy to clean foam air filters Weight: 6.00 kilos STORM 150 PSI COMPRESSOR [STM072] $145.00AUD Specifications Input 12V DC Max Pressure 150PSI Max Flow Rate 72L/min Max Current 30Amp 400W permanent magnet motor Sealed Bearings Thermal cut out protection Heavy duty plastic storage case 6m coiled hose with guage Easy to clean foam air filter Weight: 4.50 kilos http://www.injectacarb.com.au/

Same as above http://www.injectacarb.com.au/ STM072 150PSI/30A 72 liter per minute Same as above http://www.injectacarb.com.au/ TYP150 150PSI/45A 150 liter per minute UK Suppliers http://www.firstfouroffroad.co.uk Access 30 Maximum Voltage: 13.8v Maximum Amperage Draw: 30A Maximum Restart Pressure: 200PSI Maximum Ambient Temp: 60degC Minimum Ambient Temp: -55degC Maximum Air Flow: 72 litres per min Maximum Working Pressure: 150PSI Maximum Duty Time Cycle: 40 mins at 40PSI at 24degC

The effects of Carbon Dioxide (in helmet diving) and some elementary physics. Compressed air supply to the helmet has two functions. Replenish the oxygen supply to the diver, and purge out CO2 build up. The second function is often ignored, but this is vitally important.

The maximum amount of CO2 allowed at any time should only be 5%. As the diver goes deeper the amount of air flowing into the helmet diminishes thereby flushing less stale air. Respiration supplies the body with one ingredient required to function, namely oxygen. A single breath draws in 1/9 cu ft of air which is 21% oxygen, the remaining 79% being mostly nitrogen. The body absorbs 5% of oxygen from the volume and expels out 16% oxygen. The volume remains the same as the body expels an equal amount of carbon dioxide or 5% in any volume.

Surface CO2 level 1-2% 3-5% 5-10% 10-25%

Symptoms No effect Deeper breathing Confusion Severe panting

Death

Finding a safe CO2 limit for helmet divers Equation: Surface percent CO in helmet= Cu Ft Min oxygen converted to CO2/ Cu Ft Min air entering helmet

Type of exertion Oxygen Consumption Cubic feet/minute

CO2 Produced Cubic feet/minute

Volume of Breath Cubic feet

CUFT Breathed a minute

Resting 1/100 1/150 1/50 1/4

Standing 1/70 1/100 1/40 5/14

Walking 2mph 1/35 1/40 1/22 5/7

Walking 3mph 1/28 1/28 1/8 25/28

Above is a plot diagram(chart) showing the decrease in a gas volume due to increase in depth as governed by Boyle's Law. Assuming the pump delivers 3 cu ft min at surface. Also our diver is doing average work and consuming 1/28 cu ft, we need to figure out the maximum depth where he can perform his duties without undue panting. Remember our safe limit for CO2 is 5%. Then we substitute into the equation above along with the 1/28 figure and get the minimum delivered air which is .72. Now using Boyles Law(fig 1) find the find the depth at which 3 cu ft at surface will give you .72 cu ft delivered. It turns out to be 135 ft which is the maximum safe limit given the type of work and the volume of air being put out by the equipment. The following table gives minimum air supplies at surface for gear used: Mask with no breathing bag/ power snorkel 2 cu ft/ min Mask with one way breathing bag(no CO2 in system) 1-1.5 Mask with breathing bag two way system 1 Helmet or mask with bag greater than lung capacity .75 1 foot of water increases ambient pressure by .445 PSI, or half a pound. Chest area of an adult male is approximately 1/2 square foot or 72 square inches. Breathing at a depth 1 foot of water a diver needs to overcome the force of 33 lbs. Boyle's Law can be expressed using following formula: Volume @(2)= Volume @(1)X{Pressure (absolute) (1)/ Pressure (absolute) (2)} Pressure at any depth can be easily calculated using the following formula: Pressure(psi) = .445 X Depth (feet of sea water) In fresh water replace .445 with .433 the equation returns values in 'gauge pressure'.

Pressure in atmospheres = .0304 X Depth in sea water +1 Pressure in atmospheres = .0295 X Depth in fresh water +1 Absolute And Gauge Pressure Absolute Pressure. See chart below. Depth feet meters Pressure sea level 14.7 PSI 1 BAR 33' 10m 29.4 2 66' 20m 44.1 3 99' 30m 58.8 4 The chart above may seem confusing to most divers. This chart indicates a system of measurement called absolute pressure divers are used to Gauge pressure. See chart below. Depth feet meters Pressure sea level 0 PSI 0 BAR 33' 10m 14.7 1 66' 20m 29.4 2 99' 30m 44.1 3 1 cubic foot of water weighs 62.4 lbs (1 liter weighs 1 Kg). This is true only for fresh water, salt water is slightly heavier at 64 lbs (1.025 Kg).

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