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Bathroom Vanity Project Design and Plan by Built By Stevie

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Materials List

MAPLE PAINTED VANITY 34”T BY 51”W BY 21”D

1- 3/4” by 4' by 8' sheet paint grade Maple ply1- 1/4” by 4' by 8' sheet paint grade Maple ply1- 5/8” by 4' by 8' Baltic Birch ply12 BF of 1” thick S4S (pre-milled) Maple (or whatever hardwood you choose)side note: this will most likely be 13/16” thickness when bought and planshave been made taking that into mind3 sets of 18” under mount drawer glides4 soft close inset door hinges

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Tools Needed

Table Saw or Track SawMiter SawDomino or Doweling JigDrill and DriverPocket Hole Jig


Exploded View

Band SawRouter TableOrbital SanderPaint Sprayer (optional)

2- 51” by 2” by 1”4- 34” by 2” by 1”2- 47” by 2” by 1”2- 26” by 2” by 1”2- 11” by 2” by 1”

Cut List


Front Face Frame

Back Frame with Nailers

Maple Face Frame and Back Frame

4-22” by 4” by 3/4” ply (nailers strips)4- 4” by 2” by 1” (leg spacers)1- 3” by 2” by 1” (interior upper door stop)

Tip From StevieYou will cut the tapered

legs during this step.Gather the 4 side pieces

(34" by 2" by 1")To measure the taper

first measure and marka line across the widthat 4" from the bottom.Then at the end of theleg measure in 1 1/4"

and make a mark.Connect the marks by

drawing a diagonal line.Using the band saw cutaway the excess wood

to create the taper.Clean up with orbital

sander.

Cut List


4 stiles: 30” by 2” by 1” (Maple)4 rails: 16 3/16” by 2” by 1” (Maple)2 panels: 16 1/16” by 26 3/4” (1/4” Maple ply)

Side Panels

Finished Door Size30" by 19 3/8" Rails and Stiles

Tip From Stevie*I used the rail and stile calculation to get my rail dimensions.

The length of your rails is equal to the width of your door minus the width of the two stiles, plusthe length of the two tenons.

In this instance: 19 3/8" - 4” + 13/16” = 16 3/16")

Cut List


Tip From Stevie*1/4” ply door panels (Length: The length of your panel is the height of your door minus the width

of both rails, plus 13/16" for top and bottom rail groove depths minus 1/16" *for expansion. This example: 25 3/4“ - 4" + 13/16" - 1/16"* = 22 1/2“

Width: The width of your panel is the width of your door minus the width of both stiles, plus 13/16"for left and right stile groove depths, minus 1/8"* for expansion.

This example: 16 3/16” - 4” + 13/16” -1/8*” = 13 1/2”) 2- 13 1/2” by 22 1/2”

Doors and Drawer Fronts4- 25 3/4” by 2” by 1”4- 13 5/8” by 2” by 1”2- 13 1/2” by 22 1/2” (1/4" ply panels)3- 10 3/4" by 7 1/8" by 1" (drawer fronts)

Cut List


Bottom Panel and Supports1- 19 3/8” by 49 3/8” by ¾” (Maple ply for bottom of vanity)1- 19 3/8” by 27 1/2" by ¾” (Maple ply for interior divider)2- 2 1/2” by 49 3/8” by ¾” (Maple ply for top vanity runners to hold counter)4- 4” by 22 ½” by ¾” (Maple ply for back nailers)

Drawer Parts6- 10 5/8” by 6” by 5/8" Baltic Birch6- 18” by 6” by 5/8" Baltic Birch3- 10” by 17 3/8” by 1/4" (Maple ply for bottom of drawer)

Tip From Stevie*I use under mounts thatcall for a 3/8” gap smaller

than the width of theopening. Our opening is

11”W by 7 3/8”T. Go 1-1 1/2” smaller for yourheight o the drawer to take

into account the undermount drawer glide.

AssemblyInstructions


Step 1: I build the face frame and back frame first. I usedominoes for this process, but you can also do pocket holesor dowels.

After cutting your materials its ready to start building!


Step 2: Run the rails and stiles for the doors and side panelsthrough your router table. (router bit #92145 from Rockler)

Assembly Instructions

Step 3: Assemble doors and side panels


Step 4: Attach bottom to face frame using dominoes or pocket screws.Step 5: Attach side panels to face frame and bottom using dominoes or pocket screws Step 6: Attach bottom to back frame and side panels using dominoes or pocket screwsStep 7: Attach top runners using pocket screws. One in the front and one along the back.


Front Back


Step 8: Sanding time! Start with your lower grit of 100 andwork your way up. If I am painting I sand to 220. If I am staining, I sand no higher than 150 grit.


Step 9: Run drawer pieces through dado blades at 1/2” from the bottom and 5/16” deep for bottoms.


Step 10: Assemble drawers. Over all drawers are 10 5/8”W by 18”L using 18” under-mount drawer glides.


Step 11: Use the RocklerJIG IT Undermount DrawerSlide Jig and UndermountDrilling Guide


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Step 13: Install the drawer fronts and cabinet doors.

Drawer Front Installation: I predrill holes in the drawer faces for

the drawer handles, then align thedrawer face in the opening using

spacers. Once centered, I use screws inthe handle holes to temporarily attachthe door to the drawer from the front.

Then open the drawer and attached thedrawer face permanently with screwsfrom the back. Then proceed to install

your handles.

Cabinet Door Installation:Using Rockler's JIG IT hinge plate jig I

mark the inside of the cabinets for theEuro Hinge holes. Then I install the baseplate of the Euro Hinge to the cabinet. Then, I transfer the exact location ontomy doors and drill for my Euro Hinge.Screw the Euro Hinge to the door and

the hinge should click right into thebase plate. Use adjustment screws on

hinges to set the perfect reveals.

Step 12: Time for paint. I suggest a paint gun to get that smooth finish. A roller and brush will also get the job done.


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