bulleit world class seminar
TRANSCRIPT
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THE DNA OF FLAVORWORLD CLASS BARTENDER LAB
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Seminar agenda1. Welcome – Please Taste Responsibly
2. Formation of Flavora) Grainsb) Yeastc) Fermentationd) Distillatione) Maturation
3. Vertical Tasting – New Spirit Through Mature Spirita) Sensory Analysis b) E-Nose Data
4. The Science of Location – Rickhouse 101
5. Oak Species – American vs. European vs. Japanese
6. Q&A
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Glossary• E-NOSE. Mass spectrometry technology. Gives give fast, accurate data on aromas present in liquid / gas.• CONGENER. A chemical constituent that gives a distinctive character or aroma. Some are valued in
spirits whereas others are removed.
• SACCHAROMYCES CERIVISIAE. Distiller’s yeast, this strain is used in all types of whisk(e)y.• LACTOBACILLI. A bacteria that occurs in the fermentation process, which gives a creamy, fruity flavor
and is found in beers and whiskeys that employ long fermentations.
• ORTHONASAL OLFACTION. Inhaling aromas through the nose.• RETRONASAL OLFACTION. Inhaling aromas over the palate / nasal cavity and out through the nose.
• QUERCUS ALBA. American white oak.• QUERCUS ROBUR. European oak.• QUERCUS MONGOLICA. Japanese white oak.
• ADSORPTION. The adhesion of molecules to a surface (copper / charcoal).
• BETA DAMASCONE. Belongs to a family called ‘rose ketones.’ Gives a floral, apple flavor.• SYRINGOL (DIMETHOXYPHENOL). Produced by the thermal breakdown of lignin. Gives a smoky,
peppery flavor / aroma. • ISOBUTANOL (METHYL PROPONOL). Organic compound found in distilled spirits. Has a slight ‘damp’
aroma.• DMS (DIMETHYL SULPHIDE). An ‘organosulphur’ that occurs during the production process. Gives
unwanted flavors that are removed by copper and charcoal by adsorption. • LIGNIN. A complex organic polymer that makes up part of the structure of wood. When heat-treated, it
releases aromatic aldehydes like vanillin (vanilla flavor).• HEMICELLULOSE. Complex polysaccharides (wood sugars) that, when heat-treated, leach out sweetness
and form flavors like maltol (butterscotch).• PHENOLS. Aromatic organic compounds famous for giving Scotch its smoky flavor and aroma. Also found
in wood and will give a smoky note to un-peated whiskeys like bourbon. • HETEROCYCLIC NITROGEN COMPOUNDS. Give a roasted, nutty character.• VISCIMETRY. Visible physical reaction that occurs when liquids of different viscosity (e.g. ethanol, water)
collide.
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Your tasting mat
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The e-nose
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Quantitative-analytical progression• E-nose detected 8 chemical compounds of significance
Compound Sensory Descriptor
1-propanol Alcoholic, fruity, pungent
Ethyl acetate Butter, caramelized, fruity orange, pineapple, sweet
2-methyl-1-propanol Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey
n-Butanol Cheese / fermented, fruity, medicinal
3-methyl-1-butanol Balsamic / fermented, fruity, malty, ripe onion
Iso-amyl acetate Banana, fresh, pear, sweet
Ethyl-octanoate Anise, baked fruit, floral, green, waxy / sweet
Beta-damascenone Apple, apple rose, fruit, honey, sweet tobacco
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Mash billsGRAINS
• A mash bill is a pre-determined mixture of grains that are then ground and cooked to extract fermentable sugars prior to fermentation
• Backbone of bourbon and usually makes up the majority (70%+) of its mash bill.
• Gives a very high yield of alcohol and as a result is used extensively in both the American and Scotch whisk(e)y (for “grain whisky”).
• Lends a distinctive roundness / sweetness to the final spirit.
• Indigenous grain crop to N. America
CORN RYE• Another indigenous crop to N.
America that was used by the early settlers to make bread and distill.
• Maryland and Pennsylvania were the original heartland of rye.
• Requires more skill to produce and gives far less yield than corn or barley.
• Gives a spirit a distinctive spicy, peppery character.
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Mash billsGRAINS
• One of the first “domesticated” grains and has been used for making food, predominately bread, since the Neolithic period.
• Its use in bourbon was made famous by brands that were initially produced at Stitzel-Weller.
• Gives a sweetness and slight creamy flavor to the spirit creating a “softer” style of bourbon
• Used for two key reasons:• Firstly, it delivers a large amount of
the enzymes that convert starches to sugars, making it a very efficient catalyst to ensure a good yield and fermentation.
• Secondly, it adds depth of flavor giving a malty and cereal character to the spirit.
WHEAT BARLEY
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Bourbon whiskeyGRAINS
• Three main bourbon mash bills are used in the industry:
1. ‘HIGH CORN’ BOURBON. - The most common style available.- Will have at least 70% corn, but can be as high as 100%. - Sweeter on the palate.
2. ‘HIGH RYE’ BOURBON. - The higher amounts of rye will counter the sweetness of
the corn giving a more spicy, peppery character.
3. ‘WHEATED’ BOURBON. - Usually high in corn but with no or little rye, which will be
replaced with wheat - Sweet, soft and creamy flavor.
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Rye whiskeyGRAINS
• Rye whiskey was one of the first commercially distilled spirits in America. The heartlands of Rye were Pennsylvania and Maryland.
• Post-Prohibition, the US government flooded the market with cheap aged rye, effectively destroying the distillers who couldn’t compete on age or price.
• Rye is a difficult whiskey to produce for various reasons. It is very viscous and can burn onto stills if the distiller isn’t careful. It can also be affected by ferulic acid.
• Rye whiskey is known for its dry, spicy quality. The higher the rye (minimum 51% of mash bill for American) the drier and more spicy the spirit.
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Bulleit Frontier WhiskeyGRAINS
• What is the importance of a mash bill?
BULLEIT RYE95% Rye
5% Malted Barley
BULLEIT BOURBON68% Corn28% Rye
4% Malted Barley
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Yeast strainsYEAST
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae
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Yeast historyYEAST
• Yeast research started in the late 1600s shortly after the invention of the microscope
• It wasn’t until Louis Pasteur’s groundbreaking research in the late 1800s that it was fully understood that yeast ‘metabolizes’ sugars to produce alcohol.
• There are many types of yeast used for different industries (beer, bread, etc.), but the only one used in the distilling industry is SACCHAROMYCES CERIVISIAE.
• Many distillers used to use wild yeast strains that they cultured and continue to use today. They can have radically different effects on the final spirit. There are fruity yeasts, spicy, nutty, etc. – and they all lend flavor to the new spirit character and the final matured product.
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Yeast strainsYEAST
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Fermentation FERMENTATION
SHORT 20-30 HRS LONG 50+ HRS
NUTTY / SPICY CREAMY / FRUITY
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CopperDISTILL
ATION
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CopperDISTILL
ATION
Copper Pot StillPhoto Credit: Willet Distillery
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CopperDISTILL
ATION
George Dickel Beer StillPhoto Credit: Ewan Morgan
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Killer graph – distillery characterMATURATION
Tast
e
Maturation
Distillery Character
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New spirit tasting
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E-nose data for sample 1 – Bulleit Rye new make
BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
Ethyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
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E-nose data new make wheated Bourbon
22
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenoneEthyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
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Quantitative-analytical progression• E-nose detected 8 chemical compounds of significance
Compound Sensory Descriptor
1-propanol Alcoholic, fruity, pungent
Ethyl acetate Butter, caramelized, fruity orange, pineapple, sweet
2-methyl-1-propanol Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey
n-Butanol Cheese / fermented, fruity, medicinal
3-methyl-1-butanol Balsamic / fermented, fruity, malty, ripe onion
Iso-amyl acetate Banana, fresh, pear, sweet
Ethyl-octanoate Anise, baked fruit, floral, green, waxy / sweet
Beta-damascenone Apple, apple rose, fruit, honey, sweet tobacco
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Maturation scienceMATURATION
CASK MECHANISM OUTCOME EXAMPLE
SUBTRACTIVE Removes immature elements from new make
spirits
Sulphur compounds, immature off notes
ADDITIVE Adds wood-derived flavors from the cask
Vanillin, oak lactone
INTERACTIVE Converts spirit and extractive wood elements
to produce mature character
Acetal formation
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Oak species – American / EuropeanMATURATION
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Oak species – American / EuropeanMATURATION
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Oak species – American / JapaneseMATURATION
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Oak species – flavor notesMATURATION
MORE FLAVOR NOTES
QUERCUS ALBA (AMERICAN)
QUERCUS ROBUR(EUROPEAN)
QUERCUS MONGOLICA(JAPANESE)
• GROWS SLOWER• TIGHTER MEDULLARY
RAYS• HIGH LACTONE
(COCONUT NOTES) LEVELS
• VERY HARD• CHARRED INTERIOR
• SOFTER • MORE PORUS• TOASTED• VARIANCE IN
EXTRACTIVE LEVELS• EX-WINE, SHERRY
• MIZUNARA OAK• SOFT• VERY PORUS• VERY EXPENSIVE• CONTROLLED FELLING• VERY HIGH VANILLIN
LEVELS
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Killer graph – degradation of immaturityMATURATION
Tast
e
Maturation
Distillery Character
Immaturity
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Barrel charringMATURATION
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Char levelsMATURATION
1 2
43
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Killer graph – maturationMATURATION
Tast
e
Maturation
Distillery Character
ImmaturityCask
Maturation
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PyrolysisMATURATION
• Heat treatment plays a critical role in maturing distilled spirits.
• Two methods used:- Toasting (sherry or wine casks) is much milder and takes
longer- Charring (bourbon / rye) is more rapid and aggressive and
sets alight the interior of the barrels to create a carbonized layer of activated charcoal
• The objectives / outcomes are the same:- Degradation of wood polymers to yield flavor
compounds, such as lignin to produce aromatic aldehydes like vanillin
- Degradation of polysaccharides (cellulose / hemicellulose) which help form maltol which gives rich caramel notes
- Destruction of resinous / unpleasant aromas – pyrolysis removes trans-2-nonenal which gives a rancid flavor to the spirit
- Production of an active carbon layer – carbon works by a process called adsorption trapping larger sulphur compounds like DMS (Dimethyl Sulphide) that give off ‘vegetal’ notes to the spirit
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PyrolysisMATURATION
CARAMELIZATION OF POLLYSACCHARIDES
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Water and whiskeyMATURATION
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Taste samples 3-7
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BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
Ethyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
E-nose data for sample 3 – Bulleit Rye barreled April 2015, aged 4 months
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BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
Ethyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
E-nose data for sample 4 – Bulleit Rye barreled July 2013, aged 25 months
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BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
Ethyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
E-nose data for sample 5 – Bulleit Rye barreled July 2011, aged 55 months
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BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
2-methyl 1-propanol
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate 2-methyl 1-propanol
E-nose data for sample 6 – Bulleit Rye final bottled product
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E-nose data aged wheated Bourbon
41
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenoneEthyl octanoate
2-methyl 1-propanol
2-methyl 1-propanol
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Color and pH progression
Sample Color (WCU) pH
Unaged Bulleit Rye – 0 Months 0 4.81
2015 Bulleit Rye – 4 Months 98 4.73
2013 Bulleit Rye – 25 Months 167 4.63
2011 Bulleit Rye – 55 Months 251 4.50
2004 Bulleit Rye – 134 Months 241 4.40
Bulleit Rye – final bottled product 178 4.10
• Rapid color development occurs until ~4.5 years
• Continuous drop in pH during maturation generally yields softer, fuller, rounder flavor profiles
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E-nose – principal component analysis
Bulleit Rye 4 mos
Bulleit Rye new make
Bulleit Rye 25 months
Bulleit Rye 55 mos
Bulleit Rye final product
Wheated bourbon final product
Bulleit Rye 134 mos
Wheated bourbon new
make
Bulleit chemical ‘signature’ versus wheated bourbons
As whiskeys age, they takes on a different chemical / sensory profile or ‘signature’
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Impact of aging on flavor
0
200,000
400,000
600,000
800,000
1,000,000
1,200,000
1,400,000 Volatile Compounds in Bulleit Distillates
New make20132004Final Product
Area
Cou
nts
1 propanol ethyl acetate 2-methyl 1-propanol
beta damascenoneAlcoholic,
fruity, pungentButter,
caramelized, fruity orange,
pineapple, sweet
Alcoholic, leek, licorice, winey
Apple, apple rose, fruit,
honey, sweet tobacco
• Aging increases fruity, caramelized, sweet, wine / alcohol, honey and tobacco type flavor compounds
• Aging decreases fermented, ripe, pungent notes
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Science of location – rickhouse 101MATURATION
Floor 1 Stitzel-Weller Rickhouse
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Science of location – rickhouse 101MATURATION
7 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
6 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
5 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
4 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
3 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
2 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
1 OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
OOO
MORE OAK EXTRACTIVES / HIGHER PROOF
CENTER CUT / MORE BALANCED
LIGHTER, SWEETER / LOWER PROOF
HOT AND DRY = PROOF RAISES
COOLER AND MORE AMBIENT MOISTURE = PROOF LOWERS
HEAT
RIS
ES
ANGEL’S SHARE ANGEL’S SHARE
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Thank you – Bulleit Rye barreled 2004, aged 134 months
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BULLEIT RYE – O MBULLEIT RYE – 4 MBULLEIT RYE – 25 MBULLEIT RYE – 55 MBULLEIT RYE – 134 MBULLEIT RYE – FINAL
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl acetate
Ethyl octanoate
Beta-damascenone
Beta-damascenone
2-methyl 1-propanol
3-methyl-1-butanol3-methyl-1-butanol
Ethyl octanoate 2-methyl 1-propanol
E-nose data for sample 8 – Bulleit Rye barreled 2004, aged 134 months