Key Items Fashion: Men's Cut & Sew S/S 23 As fits follow a slow and steady evolution, low-impact sourcing strategies and the desire for smart-casual comfort influence jersey items
Olivia Barnes 11.04.21 · 4 minutes
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The striped tank
Why is it key? Trending in knitwear and jersey categories, the tank is an important layering piece and standalone garment for spring. Record-breaking temperatures call for lightweight, sleeveless pieces that can be worn as a part of a casual work or daywear outfit.
Des ign details : the #gentleretro stripe recalls the knits of the 1960s and 1970s, with the simple mariner's stripe noted too. Necklines are scooped and have a deeper front neck drop for a fresh, cooling fit. Use self-striped trims at the neck and armhole for a true retro touch. Prioritise low-impact bast fibre blends and GOTS-certified or GRS recycled cotton.
RetropyRetropy @bluemarbleparis@bluemarbleparis
Monticolor X Feel the YarnMonticolor X Feel the Yarn Federico CinaFederico Cina WGSN Original CADs/FlatsWGSN Original CADs/Flats
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The multi-panel tee  
Why is it key? # Panelling gains traction across jersey and knitwear as a look and a construction technique, as waste utilisation plays an important role in brands' circular strategies.
Des ign details : zero-waste techniques are the most important factor. Use this core shape to incorporate leover material and trims that would otherwise be considered waste. Explore ways to use leover stock, such as upcycling or reconfiguring them into a new garment. Look to classic body shapes for this casual summer tee, with a straight, elongated fit through the body.
@astridandersens@astridandersens CosCos
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The smart rugby
Why is it key: as offices begin to open up, consumers will seek smart items that retain the comfort of more casual home working wardrobes. This refined rugby shirt offers a casual, youth-driven alternative to the button- through shirt, in line with evolving # newprep styles.
Des ign details : the slick placket is the key detail, which can be a hidden button or zip placket. Design simple and oversized stripes in tonal colour pairings for a fresh take on # preppystripes. Keep ribbed cuff trims the same colour as the adjacent knit.
Source elevated smooth-handle jerseys in certified organic cotton, GRS recycled cotton or responsibly sourced merino blends.
The Hip StoreThe Hip Store @massimodutti@massimodutti
Aimé Leon DoreAimé Leon Dore CarnanCarnan WGSN Original CADs/FlatsWGSN Original CADs/Flats
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The short-sleeved cardigan
Why is it key? Jersey # cardigans have been percolating for some time and spring is the perfect moment to evolve this easy layering piece. Keeping the sleeves to just above the elbow references the classic baseball shirt and developing # clubhouse themes.
Des ign details : look to medium-weight fleece or heavy cotton interlock for a substantial drape. Create a placket that is double-layered to tap into tailoring. Keep the fit comfortable but not oversized, suitable for styling open over a T-shirt or buttoned up. In addition to baseball jerseys, look to vintage buttoned-up bowling shirts for further collar and cuff inspiration.
Margaret HowellMargaret Howell White MountaineeringWhite Mountaineering
@loopwheelersendagaya@loopwheelersendagaya @sefr___@sefr___ WGSN Original CADs/FlatsWGSN Original CADs/Flats
The craft detail hoodie
Why is it key? This hoodie features a high-top hood detail, evolving from the # protectivedesign directions prominent for A/W 22/23. Pay attention to craed details and elevated low-impact fibres that translate the pullover hoodie into a premium item with longevity.
Des ign details : play with the proportions of drawstring and tie details, introducing handcraed techniques via intricate cords, woven tapes and fringing details. Create a rustic feel with certified organic cotton, linen or hemp cords in marled or irregularly twisted yarns. Additional embroidery and artisanal placement prints show how considered cra details can be incorporated into everyday items. Work respectfully with specific regional techniques and patterns, collaborating with organisations such as Roots Studio to source designs through equitable partnerships.
QasimiQasimi ReservedReserved
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Striped tank Multi-panel tee Smart rugby Short-sleeved cardigan Craft detail hoodie
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1 2 3 4 Action points
Shiing work wardrobes and pandemic- related uncertainty create the need for clothing that balances smart details and casual comfort. Utilise elevated fabric qualities and trims along with concealed placket details. Refine integral design elements and remember less is oen more
Start implementing zero-waste principles across production and sampling processes. Use panelling and patchwork as key techniques for limited-edition collections. For higher- volume items, utilise # deadstock and leover fabrics
Move away from all-over printed and tie-dye garments, focusing on placement prints and embroideries that have more longevity. Make new proportions for drawstring and tie details, introducing handcraed techniques via intricate cords, woven tapes and fringing details
Seek lightweight, breathable fibres that are comfortable in warm weather. Pick up on the rise of natural fibre usage with low-impact bast fibre blends and GOTS-certified or GRS recycled cotton. Explore jerseys with UV protection, IR reflection and antibacterial qualities for enhanced comfort
Balance smart-casual style to answer shifting consumer needs
Let zero-waste techniques guide the design process
Prioritise placements for crafted details
Make smart material choices to provide comfort in changing climates
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