how to build CABALLEROLength: 19 ft. Beam: 6V2 ft. Displacement: 1,750 lb.

Speed: 27 mph with two 25-hp motors, 17 mph with one 25-hp motor.

By Charles M. Ungerbuehler

Naval Architect

/'

ABALLERO was designed for the amateur builder who desires aroomy, fast, and comfortable cruiser without the attendant high

building and upkeep costs usually associated with inboard craft. Sheis a direct development of an earlier design that has proved successfulin the hands of a large number of builders.

The cabin provides comfortable quarters for two. Besides the berths,it contains a galley stove, food locker, icebox, watercloset, andadequate storage space. There is not, of course, standing headroom.There is, however, ample sitting headroom. That is all you can expectin a boat of this size; so don

'

t be persuaded by some misguided amateuradviser to increase the headroom in hope of making a better boat ofher. You have the word of the designer that you will not.

Caballero,s rough-water ability will be excellent. The hull shows apronounced flare forward and the maximum allowable deadrise con-sistent with her speed requirements. Her afterbody is of the constant-section type, which will insure comfortable banking on the turns anda smooth, disturbance-free, level ride.

While the boat has been specifically designed to carry two of the

70

new 25-hp motors manufactured by John-son Motors, it is in no wise restricted inthis respect. It can be powered with anysingle 25-hp motor or single 33-hp motor,for the boat is large enough to have suffi-cient fore-and-aft stability so the slightdifferences in weight will have little effecton her trim. A single 25-hp motor, equippedwith the proper wheel, will produce about17 mph. Two of these motors, equippedwith higher-pitched wheels allowing themotors to turn up their rated revolutions,will give about 27 mph. A single 33-hpmotor will show about 21 mph. The boatwill not perform properly when poweredwith less than 25 hp.

The plans show a simple compensatingdevice that will effectively synchronizetwo motors to eliminate "wow-wow" andto hold the hull on a true course.

There are two things you can't do withCaballero. First, you can"t plank her withlarge sheets of plywood. Since she hascompound curves on both topsides andbottom, plywood sheets just won't go on.Second, you can't expect good performancewith four or five passengers in her cockpit.Some of your guests should not object toriding in the light and airy cabin in orderto hold the boat to her proper trim.

With prices varying as they do today,there is no way of knowing what she isgoing to cost you to build. However, hereis one thing you can bank on. Build andfinish her properly and you won"t have herin the water many days before someenvious boat lover offers you half as muchagain as she cost you-which probablywon

'

t be enough for you to let her go.Before beginning construction, lay down

the lines full size from the table of offsets.

Build the hull upside down over a rigidlybraced form that is cut to fit the top edgeof the keel batten and is notched at inter-vals to hold the frames rigidly in then-proper locations. Tie each pair of frameheads together at the sheer with a sturdyspreader and mark the center line on eachspreader. If these center lines are made toline up as the frames are positioned on theform, and if the full-size drawing has beenproperly done, the boat is bound to be fail-when finished.

Note that all frames stand at right anglesto the base and that the lapping of side andbottom frames reverses between framesNo. 3 and No. 4.

Specifications

Material. All lumber should be free fromknots, shakes, checks

, or warp, with theexception that tight knots not over Vfe in.

72

in diameter in the planking material arepermitted. All fir plywood should be edge-branded "EXT-DFPA." All mahogany ply-wood should be guaranteed bonded withwaterproof resorcinal adhesive. No mixingof ferrous and nonferrous fastenings shouldbe permitted. All butting or lapping ex-terior surfaces should be coated with non-hardening marine glue. All framework andplanking should be treated with woodpreserver before painting. All hardware,fittings, paints, varnishes, stains, fillers,etc., should be of the marine type. Wheremore than one material is specified, theyare listed in the order of their preference.All material sizes are net dressed. Anyminor part of the interior not actually di-mensioned can be either scaled or sized tosuit the builder.

Keel. White oak, 2 in. thick, shaped asshown.

Keel Batten. White oak, 1V4X4 in,,beveled to match the frames and receivethe planking. Secure to keel with 2./2-in.screws on 4-in. centers. Set the screw

heads in counterbores and plug them.Stem. White oak, 2 in. thick, made up

from three shaped pieces as shown. As-semble the pieces with six carriage bolts,setting the bolt heads in counterbores inthe stem face. Bevel the stem to a Vfc-in.face

, rabbet it for the planking, and secureit to the keel assembly with three carriagebolts.

Stopwaters. White-pine doweling, V4 in.in diameter, glued in holes through stemin positions shown.

Floor Timbers. White oak, % in. thick.21/z in. minimum depth above keel batten.and not less than 18 in. long in the afterframes (forward, the lengths will reducebecause of the angle of the bottom). Notcheach for the keel batten and secure with a

Wi-in. carriage bolt through the batten,counterboring for each bolt head andplugging.

Bottom Frames. White oak, 34x21£ in.Secure each to its floor timber with six./i-in. machine bolts, placing washersunder heads and nuts.

Side Frames. White oak, 3/a in. thick, 2 in.wide at heads, 3 in. wide at heels. Secureeach to its bottom frame with two V -in.machine screws, placing washers underheads and nuts. After positioning theframes on the building form, notch them toreceive the inner chines.

Chines. Each composed of two pieces.Inner piece is lx2J/fe-in. white oak andouter one is lx2-in. mahogany. Set innerpieces in notches in frames (includingtransom frame) and box them into thestem. Secure at each joint with two 2"/»-in,

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screws. Extend outer pieces to back faceof transom and secure at each joint witha No. 8 screw that's set in a counterbore

and plugged. The outer edge of each outerchine must be left sharp from frame No.

7

aft, or speed will be reduced.Battens. White oak

, V2XIV2 in., in singlelengths if possible. Set them in notchesin the side frames located to divide eachframe from lower sheer to chine into fourequal spaces. Divide the space from lowersheer to raised sheer into two equal spaces.Box the battens into the stem and notchthem into the transom frame

, but not intothe transom itself. Lay the bottom battensout to allow the garboard strakes to beslightly wider than their neighbors, withtheir outer edges as straight as possible.The remaining planks should be approxi-mately the same width at each frame.

Theforward ends of the bottom battens shouldbox into the inner chines. Secure eachbatten at each joint with a l -in. No.

10screw.

Limber Holes. Cut two through eachframe and floor timber next to the keelbatten. They should be of ample size toallow bilge water to flow freely to the lowpoint of the boat.

Transom. Mahogany, 1% in. thick, madeup of two pieces. Secure the pieces togetherwith a spline and Cascophen glue.

Fitframing, cleats, motor board, and knees asshown, securing them to the transom withnonhardening glue and the followingfastenings: IVz-in. No. 10 screws

, set incounterbores and plugged, through thetransom into the framing: and J/i-in.

car-

riage bolts, also set in counterbores andplugged, through transom and knees.

Bottom Planking. White cedar, V2 in.thick. Garboard strakes should be in singlelengths. Each of the remaining strakes canbe made from two pieces if a y2-in.

oakblock, 8 in. long, is fitted behind the buttightly between the battens.

There shouldbe at least two strakes between butt blocksfalling between the same pair of frames.

Secure planks to frames, keel batten, stem,

transom, and chines with 1 4-in. No. 8screws on 3-in. centers

, and to battens with%-in

. No. 8 screws on 3-in. centers.

Side Planking. White cedar, /> in. thick.The shutter strakes must be in singlelengths. The remainder can be butted in(he same manner as the bottom planking.

Plank the hull to the lower sheer and thenturn the boat right-side up, install theclamps, and add the four remaining topsideplanks. All fastenings are similar to thoseused in the bottom planking. Lightlycountersink them and fill with putty.

Clamps. Spruce, %x2 in. Each may be in

two lengths. Fasten them a sufficient dis-tance below the frame heads so the deckbeams can be set on them. Box them intothe stem and transom framing and fit fillersas shown. Secure at each joint with two2V4-in. No. 12 screws.

Breasthooks and Quarter Knees. Whiteoak, 1 in. thick, securely screw-fastenedwhere shown.

Deck Beams. White oak, %x2 in. Cut

each full beam to a radius that will give thespecified rise and each short beam to match-Secure each beam to each frame head withtwo l'/i-in. No. 10 screws. Cut the innerends of the short beams at angles to allowthe cabin sides to rake inboard as shown.

Cartings. White oak, %x2 in. Half-gainIhem into the short beams and secure ateach joint with a No. 10 screw drivenvertically. Note that the forward ends ofthe cal lings extend to the second full deckbeam.

Partners and Fillers. White oak, % in.

thick, screw-fastened where shown to pro-vide backings for deck hardware and deck-ing ends.

Decking. White cedar, V2 in. thick. Nailto deck beams, carlings, and sheer battens.Cover with 10-oz. canvas set in canvascement and secured along all edges withshort copper nails. Turn canvas up underfacing pieces after sills have been installed.

Putty all nail holes in the decking beforelaying the canvas. Finish the after decknatural if desired.

Sills. Mahogany, lxlV4 in., rabbeted toreceive the house sides and secured to thecarlings with No. 10 screws.

House Sides. Mahogany plywood, Vz in.thick. Secure to sills with screws

. Fit

rabbeted corner posts and spruce houseclamps, half-notching the latter to receivethe house beams. Cut and finish all open-ings before fastening sides in place. UseCascophen glue in addition to the fasten-ings in all joints.

Rooj Beams. Spruce, %xIV2 in. Space asshown and screw-fasten into house clamps.Note the hatch framing at the after end ofthe house.

Main Bulkhead. Plywood, V2 in. thick.Screw to after sides of side frames No. 4.Fit cleats to the bottom framing to securethis member.

Roofing. White cedar, % in. thick. Nailto roof beams and house clamps.

Cover

with 8-oz. canvas, setting it in canvascement and securing it with small coppernails under the moldings.

Facings. Mahogany, V2 in. thick. Fitagainst carlings and sills as shown andsecure with screws.

Flooring. Plywood, Vz in. thick. Install

74

the cockpit flooring on ledges that arefitted on the bottom frames to raise the

floor level to the specified height. Usecountersunk washers under all fasteningsand provide a removable section to allowaccess to the bilge. Fit cabin flooring in-board of berths and lockers only.

After Bulkhead. Plywood, V2 in. thick.Fit on the forward side of frame No. 1 andinstall doors as shown to allow access tothe stern compartment.

Berths and Lockers. Plywood, Vz in.thick for the tops and V4 in. thick for thesides. Sheath the insides of the berthlockers with J/4-in. plywood and make alow bulkhead and shelf of this same ma-terial at frame No. 9. Fit two strakes ofVi-in. ceiling above each berth to preventloose articles from rolling into the bilge.

Icebox. Plywood, Vfe in. thick for the topand V4 in. thick for the sides. Install agalvanized-iron liner, leaving at least IV2in. of space between liner and box.

Fill the

space with suitable insulating material.Equip the liner with a %-in. copper draintube, leading it overboard through the hullside above the water line.

Windshield. Mahogany, % in. thick.Neatly rabbet the cut-outs to take f',--in.Lucite and install the windshield on asill. Make the mast of similar material,bore it for the wiring, and secure it to thewindshield center post.

Grab Rail. Mahogany, %xl% in. Shapeas shown, cutting hand holes betweenbeams, and fasten to each beam with onelong screw. [Continued on page 140]

LARGE-SCALE PLANSwill greatly simplify construction.

Send

$3.50 to MECHANIX ILLUSTRATED PlansService, Fawcett Building,

Greenwich,

Conn. Please specify Plan No. B-208.

iepwim" ji Mi

BILL OF MATERIALS

(Approximate Quantities Required)

Specify that all materials are to be used for boatbuilding.

All plywood is to be exterior grade. All wood is to be air-

dried to a maximum of 15 per cent moisture content. All

hardwood is to consist of first, second, and select grades

only. All softwood is to consist of A and B grades only.

Fir Plywood

2 panels. V4" x 4'-0" x 8'-0"3 panels, "/2'* x 4'-0" x 8,-0"

Mahogany Plywood

House Sides: I panel, s 4'-0" x lO'-O"

White Cedar

Roofing: 40 sq. ft., S2S random widths and lengthsPlanking and Decking: 400 sq.

ft., S2S ,/j" (Four planks to be

20 ft. long and at least 10 in. wide; remainder can aver-age 15 ft. in length and 6 to 8 in. in width)

Mahogany

Deck Cleats: 12 lineal ft.. S4S %" x

Window Trim: 5 sq. ft., S2SFacing: 30 lineal ft., S2S ,/»", 6" wideWindshield: 15 sq.

ft., S2S

Sills: 34 lineal ft.. S4S I" x l./4"

Outer Chines: 2 pieces, S4S I" x 2", l9'-0" long

Monkey Rails, Etc.. 6 lineal ft., S2S I", 6" wideTransom: I piece, S2S I,/a", 14" wide, lO'-O" longMolding: 60 lineal ft., %" half-round

40 lineal ft., I" half-round

White Oak

Battens: 400 lineal ft., S4S «/2" x V/i"

Callings: 2 pieces, S4S %" x 2", l4'-0" longFraming: 40 sq. ft., S2S random widths and lengths

(no piece to measure less than 6" wide and 6'-0" long)Deck Beams: 20 sq. ft.. S2S random widths and lengths

(no piece to measure less than 8" wide and 6'-0" long)FJoor Timbers: 10 sq. ft., S2S %"Breasthooks

, Knees, Etc.; 5 sq. ft., S2S I"Chines: 2 pieces. S4S I" x 2/j". l9'-0" longGuard Rails: 6 lineal ft.

, S2S I", 6" wideKeel Batten: I piece, S4S l/4" * 4", l6'-0" longKeel: I piece. S4S 2" x 3", l6'-0" longStem: I piece, S4S 2" x 6"

, 7'-0" long

Clamps: 40 lineal ft.Roof Beams: 50 lineal

Spruce

S4S %" x 2"ft., S2S %", 6" wide

White Pine

Stopwater: I piece, /%" doweling, 12" long

Hull Fastenings(Bronze, brass, or hot-dipped galvanized iron)

100 machine bolts, ,/4" x 2", each with a nut and two washers

12 carriage bolts, ,/V x 5", with nuts and washers12 carriage bolts. //' x 6", with nuts and washers22 gross, ,/8" No. 8 flathead wood screws7 gross, l./(" No. 8 flathead wood screws

No. 10 flathead wood screwsNo. 10 flathead wood screwsNo. 12 flathead wood screws

4 gross,

I gross.

6 dozen

l"/4"

2"/4"

Miscellaneous

3 lb., 4-penny common nails40 ft.

, 14-gauge primary wireLucite: I piece, "/s" x 12" x 18"

I piece, Vt" x 18" x 25"I piece. "/." * 18" x 26"I piece. «/i" x 24" x 27"I piece, 3/16" x 18" x 30"

10 ft., %" stainless-steel felt-lined track

5 ft., rubber sealing. ,/4" x Vt"I "Seaclo" Junior Watercloset with one %" sea cock

and one Vfa" sea cock5 sq. yards, 8-oz. canvas6 sq. yards, 10-oz. canvasI lb.

, mahogany plugs, Vi" dia.3 dozen, mahogany plugs, %" dia.I pint, elastic seam filler, underwater typeI pint, putty, Duratite or equal2 quarts, preservative, Cuprinol or equalI quart, nonhardening marine glueI pint. Cascophen glue, with catalystI gallon, canvas cementI quart, spar varnish2 quarts, marine paint for topsides, color to suit2 quarts, marine paint for decks, color to suit2 quarts, marine paint for interior, color to suit2 quarts, marine paint for bottom, color to suitVa pint, boottopping paint, color to suitI quart, stain and filler, shade to suit

76

section at the head to take the tiller and screw6-in

. cheek pieces on the sides to form bracesfor the tiller hole.

Tiller. Owing to the relatively thin rudderblade, the tiller will have to be made of veryhard and strong material. It may best be madeof an ax or maul handle cut to about the

length shown.Seats. Brace with framing of oak or long-

leaf pine and arrange locker spaces below tosuit individual preference.

Flooring. Lay on top of the floor timbersand cut hatches to give access to the bilge,stuffing box, and other inspection points.

Deck Fittings. One 6-in. cleat forward andtwo 5-in. cleats aft, bolted in place with oakfillers under the deck; one forward flagpolesocket and one outboard-type socket aft; onecombination bow light powered by a dry bat-tery of the type used on outboard boats; andone stem light of the same style operatingfrom dry cells.

Spray Hood. Made up of 8-oz. duck withfasteners around the outside of the coaming.The after portion can be supported by a brassor galvanized iron hoop set into small socketson the inside of the coaming.

Painting. The entire inside of the hullshould have at least two coats of marine paintbefore the joiner work is put in place. Theworking parts of the cockpit should receiveat least three coats of paint or varnish, whiletopsides and decks will also require threecoats. Apply at least two coats of approvedantifouling paint below the boot-top line. .

Hour To Build Caballero

[Continued jrom page 76]Bow Block. Mahogany, 1 in. thick, shaped

as shown and mortised to receive the ends ofthe monkey rails.

Monkey Rails. Mahogany, 1x1% in. Neatlytaper and round them and secure to deckedges with screws sufficiently long to reachinto sheer battens.

Deck Cleats. Mahogany, %x% in., fastenedto deck edges as shown in way of the cabin.

Moldings. Mahogany, 1-in. half-round atthe sheer and %-in. half-round at the cabintop and lower sheer. Paint them on theirundersides before screwing in place.

Guard Rails. White oak, 1x1% in. Bevel andround them and screw-fasten them into the

lowest pair of topside battens.Control Box. Plywood, % in. thick for the

top and V4 in. thick for the sides. Provide asuitable door in the bottom to allow access

to a 6-volt hot-shot battery. Mount the steer-ing wheel and controls as shown.

Windows. Make from Lucite as shown in the

detail drawings. Fit the sliding windows with%-in

. stainless-steel felt-lined track and

support them with cleats as detailed. Installstrips of felt on the after ends of these windowsto prevent the entry of water when the win-dows are closed.

Watercloset. Install in accordance with themanufacturer's specifications and fit a hingedtop over it.

Wiring. Hook the various fixtures togetherwith parallel 14-ga. primary wire. Mountsuitable switches on the control box.

Berth Cushions. Make these from materialto suit. There should be a separate removablecushion on the hinged top over the water-closet.

Deck Hardware. One 6-in. cleat, two 4-in.

cleats, one pair of 5-in. bow chocks, one Class

1 combination bow light, and one stern lightwith fresnal globe.

Miscellaneous Hardware. One 15-in. steer-

ing wheel with four 2-in. sheaves, two 2-in.housed-fairlead sheaves

, and 18 ft. of -nr-in.bronze-center steering cable; one set ofthrottle controls for either single or dualmotors; one set of gear-shift controls forditto; one 18-in. length of brass piano hinge;ten 2-in. brass hinges; three wardrobe hooks;one piece of xlVi-in. brass flatbar, withsuitable bolts, to make drag link for connect-ing dual motors; and one brass cabin lamp.

Miscellaneous Equipment. One 17-lb. Dan-forth anchor, 75 ft. of %-in. manila for anchorline, 50 ft. of Vi-in. manila for warps, one fireextinguisher, one buoyant cushion for eachpassenger, one whistle, and one galley stove.

Paint. Apply two coats of paint to the in-terior, three coats of paint to the topsidesafter priming, three coats of hard antifoulingbottom paint, and three coats of spar varnishto all bright work after filling and staining.Strike in a boottopping of contrasting colorwith its lower edge IV4 in. above the waterline at the stern and 2% in. above the waterline at the bow.

Dual-Motor Installation. Locate the motorson the transom with their thrust lines parallelto the center line of the boat. Connect themwith a drag link fastened to the back edgesof the motor rests on their center lines. Fastenarms to the motors to take the ends of thesteering cable. Since the motors must turnas a unit, a little experimentation with the in-stallation may be necessary. The steeringcables must hold a constant tension through-out the turning radius. Once the installationhas been correctly made, the transom shouldbe fitted with four recessed clamp sockets soeach motor can thereafter be returned to itsproper position. .

140