分子料理─泡沫分子應用 ESPUMA

台灣白帽廚師協會研習活動 TTB Cooking Course

28th November 2014 By Chef Dirk Rieber

主辦單位 Organizer

社團法人台灣白帽廚師協會 Les Toques Blanches Taiwan

協辦單位 Co-organizer

溫德德式烘焙餐館 Wendel’s German Bakery & Bistro

認識” ESPUMA” What is “ESPUMA”

ESPUMA

西班牙文

意即泡沫

亦是泡沫、慕斯和組織結構類似產品的通稱

• Foam in Spanish

• Also can be used for mousse or products with similar structure.

Ferran Adria

1962 生 Born 1962

世界知名西班牙主廚 World famous Spanish Chef

有分子美食之父之稱 Founder of the molecular cuisine

發明”ESPUMA”料理 Creator of ”ESPUMA”

米其林餐廳 “el Bulli” Owner of Michelin restaurant “el Bulli

應用原理 How Does It Work

發泡氣體 Propellant

• 使用一氧化二氮氣體(N2O)，而非 NOx。

• 又稱「笑氣」無色無毒有甜味的氣體，有輕微麻醉作用。

• 在室溫下穩定， 但超過攝氏 187 度以上具強烈爆炸性。

• 它是將硝酸銨(亦是易爆物)小心加熱後而產出。

• N2O NOT NOx

• N2O, also called “laughing gas” is a colorless, non-toxic gas,

with a faint, sweet odour,

• harmless at room-temperature BUT highly explosive at 187 C and above

• It is produced by carefully heating certain fertilizers – ammonium nitrate (which is also an explosive!)

一氧化二氮的多種用途 N2O Is Used For

Rocket Motors Car Racing Medicine Recreational Use Greenhouse Gas

火箭發動引擎

賽車

醫學

娛樂性使用

溫室氣體

!!!!!請注意: 請不要試圖自己使用此氣體，否則可能導致傷害>凍傷>爆炸>肺凍結>甚至造成肺部爆裂等致命危險!

!!!!!!NOTE: Don’t try to use it by yourself as it will lead to >Frostbite >explosions >frozen lungs > lungs might even pop.

應用於餐飲烹飪 Culinary Use

N2O

• An food-safe “aerosol” – propellant

• approved food additive – E 942

• commonly used for whipped cream

• used for preservation in the snack industry>potato chips

Features

• Extremely soluble in FATTY compounds

• Migrating easily into the cream/fat and does not cause oxidation

• Creating four times the volume of the liquid, (2 times max for hand or machine )

• Bacteriostatic (to prevent but not to “kill” or eliminate bacteria)

• A properly charged dispenser can be kept for up to two weeks in the chiller

N2O 食品安全的“氣體式”的加壓劑 經過批准的食品添加劑 - E942 常用於打發鮮奶油、奶製品和甜點 零食業者用於保存產品，例如洋芋片

特色 極易溶於脂肪化合物

具脂溶性，在瓶中不會造成氧化 可將液體打發至4倍大的容量 (手動或機器攪打最大只有2倍容量)

可抑菌 （防止細菌生長 - 不是“殺”或消除）

易存放 正確加壓充填發泡好的情況下，可處存於冷藏室長達兩週

注意事項 ATTENTION

DON’T OVERHEAT, the bottle might pop or even explode if it is an aftermarket product.

ONLY use heat approved bottles for warm recipes.

DON’T FREEZE – the bottle might pop while defrosting.

DON’T spray too early, N2O treated foams are extremely instable and liquefy very fast without a stabilizer.

不要過度加熱 如果是一般市售產品，瓶子可能會膨脹，甚至發生氣爆。

做熱菜時，只使用合格的防熱瓶 不要冷凍 瓶子可能會在解凍時膨脹或爆開

不要太早加壓擠出泡沫/慕斯 若無添加穩定劑，擠出來的泡沫/慕斯會很快液化。

沒有合格的設備，千萬不要 直接打開發泡器氮氣專用氣瓶(N2O 氮氣氣彈 )。

NEVER open a cartridge without approved equipment!

實務操作 Practical Handling

in the Kitchen

Even if the result looks amazing again and again, making a delicious Espuma is really not rocket science.

First, one prepares a puree, a coulis, a juice, an extract or a cream.

This is passed through a fine sieve in order to be easily sprayed from the device. The gelatin is dissolved in a portion of the mass and everything is heated to about 60 ° C. Add the remaining product and cool down. In case, cream is used, always add last, never blend.

Espuma ：原理淺顯易懂的驚豔美味

首先，把打好的泥、醬汁、果汁等細細篩出溶液來。 取與產品適當比例份量的明膠，加熱溶解至約60℃ ，加入篩出的溶液均勻混和，待其降溫冷卻。 如需要使用鮮奶油，必須最後再加入，不要攪拌。

The cooled product, is filled into the iSi-bottle.

Than charged/pressurized with 2 cartridges for 1 l bottles and 1 cartridge for 0.5l bottles.

The bottles should rest for 4 hours in the fridge.

Espuma ：原理淺顯易懂的驚豔美味

冷卻後的產品裝入奶油槍發泡器內，將N2O氮氣氣彈裝入專用氣瓶。 半瓶發泡器使用一個氣彈，一瓶發泡器使用兩個氣彈。 發泡器充分搖勻後須放置在冷藏至少四個小時。

Prior to dosing, you have to shake out the ground with a powerful jolt to the valve. Then first a small amount is injected upside down in a higher vessel to check the consistency, and then served the Espuma immediately after garnishing - done!

Of course, Espuma is also ideal for the warm kitchen. So they open up completely new possibilities in the field of soups and sauces - and here the sky is virtually the limit.

Espuma ：原理淺顯易懂的驚豔美味

在擠發泡沫前，先用力搖勻發泡器，將瓶身倒過來，輕壓把手擠出來，檢查其一致性，然後擺盤之後立即上菜， Espuma - 完成！ 當然，Espuma也適合用於熱菜，例如湯品和調味醬汁，均能自由發揮，創意可以不斷超越，沒有極限。

食譜 Recipe

Salmon Mousse

Ingredients: - Smoked salmon 3 00 g

- Cream 300 ml

- Fish- or chicken stock 300 ml

- Pernod or white wine 40 ml

- Salt and pepper Direction: Put stock and the chopped smoked salmon into a blender; puree and strain through a fine sieve, then add the cream.

Season with Pernod or white wine and spices and fill into the Gourmet Whip (1 l).

Screw successively 2 cream chargers and shake vigorously. Cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve on tasting spoons.

Goes well with Keta caviar and parsley, for example

鮭魚慕斯

材料： - 燻鮭魚 300克 - 鮮奶油 300毫升 - 魚高湯 300毫升 - 保樂力加葡萄酒或白葡萄酒 40毫升 - 鹽和胡椒

作法： 將魚高湯和燻鮭魚放入攪拌機打成泥，用細篩過濾，再加入鮮奶油。 在發泡器槍（1升）內倒入保樂力加葡萄酒或白葡萄酒和香料。 連續旋轉充氣螺旋和用力搖動後，待其冷卻至少30分鐘。 盛於試菜匙，再佐以凱塔魚子醬和香菜。

Roquefort Sauce

Ingredients:

- Roquefort 200 g

- Cream 400 ml - Sour Cream 400 g

- Flour 20 g - Juice of one lime

Direction: Put all the ingredients into the pot, heat up slowly and bring to boil. strain through a fine sieve, shake well and keep warm.

Serve with spaghetti, potatoes or roasted beef.

羊乳乾酪醬

材料： - 羊乳 200克 - 鮮奶油 400ml - 酸奶油 400克 - 麵粉 20克 - 萊姆汁 一顆的量

作法： 將所有材料放入鍋內，慢慢加熱至沸騰 過濾後加入瓶內，搖勻後保溫。 搭配義大利麵或烤牛肉。

結語 Summary

The consistency of the Espuma is dependent on the composition of the ingredients - the same Espuma can thus, depending on the proportion of gelatin, fat, albumen or starch, and depending on the cooling period having a different consistency.

分子料理的一致性取決於組合物、明膠、脂肪、蛋白或澱粉的比例 不同的材料組合和冷卻時間會產生不同稠度的成品。

In the solid state, it has the character of a mousse, in a soft state the nature of a cream and in the liquid state the nature of a soup or a sauce.

固態狀態：慕絲

軟糊狀態：像奶油

液體狀態：像湯或調味汁

The method produces more portions.

The type of Espuma is determined by the flavor (sweet or savory), the temperature (cold or hot) and the basis used for the production. The variety is infinite and the imagination has truly no limits!

可量產

無限性 運用想像力 + 掌握三元素 • 味（甜味或鹹味） • 溫度（冷或熱） • 基礎材料

Espuma can be prepared from a variety of ingredients - actually almost all foods are suitable.

Particularly suitable are meat, foie gras, fish, caviar, eggs, cheese and milk, bread, flour, grain, vegetables, olives, cocoa, herbs, spices, flowers, fresh and dried fruits, jams, vinegar, juices, tea and coffee, alcoholic beverages and of course water.

可變性 • 各種配料食材 • 特別適合肉、鵝肝、魚、魚子醬、蛋、奶酪、

牛奶、麵包、麵粉、糧食、蔬菜、橄欖、可可、香草、香料、花卉、乾鮮水果、果醬、醋、果汁、茶、咖啡、酒精飲料和水。

The mutability of Espuma has meant that they can be used in a variety of preparations, including amuse gueule, appetizer, soup, sauce, side dish, finger food, entrée, dessert, garnish, Aperitifs and cocktails.

可變性 • 各種菜色 • 開胃菜、湯、醬、小菜、小吃、主菜、

甜點、盤飾、開胃酒和雞尾酒。

有關林漢德師傅 About Chef Dirk Rieber

http://

dirkrieberdelectable.wordpress.com/

謝謝 後續再會

Thank You. See You Next Time.