V I C T O R I A

2

Explore the World Heritage Angkor Tem-ples and immerse yourself in the Khmer empire. The Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, inspired by 20th century colonial architec-ture and design, provides a sense of seren-ity with the nostalgic comfort and elegant refinement of the French Art de Vivre.

In total harmony with its natural sur-roundings, the resort is situated in the heart of Siem Reap, opposite the Roy-al Park. Located within close proximity to the Angkor Temples, the quaint old market town of Siem Reap. and 7 km (4 miles) from the International Airport. Transport yourself into the past in our vintage Citroen limousines for person-alized airport transfers, a trip around the town, or a visit to the Temples.

VICTORIA ANGKOR RESORT & SPACentral Park, P.O. Box 93145

Siem Reap Town,Kingdom of Cambodia

Tel : +855 63 760 428Fax : +855 63 760 428

resa.angkor@victoriahotels.asiawww.victoriahotels.asia

3

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 20144

As we look ahead to the new year, we’re encouraged that we’ve weathered the initial growing pains and can focus now even more on producing the leading publication about Cambodian life, business, culture, and especially responsible tourism.

What will future issues bring? We’ll continue to spotlight the growing numbers of visitors and investors from Russia, the important role of investment from China and Korea, relations with our neighbors Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos. And most of all we’ll continue to bring to our readers the wonders of the Land of Wonders, our adopted home.

As always, your readership, your advertising support, and you comments will help us make this the leading publication of its kind on the internet. We’re truly grateful.

Sincerely,

Charles R. Evans, Publisher H/P: 017.906.721Tel: +855 (0) 63.963.583 Charles@CorporateMarketingIntl.com

Dear Readers,

It’s hard to imagine anything that’s harder, more fun, and ultimately more satisfying, than

completing the first four year of a new venture still standing.

This issue of Cambodia Insight is our 20th quarterly publication. It’s been, as the Navy promises, not a job but an adventure.

Heartfelt thanks to our many readers. You’ve proven again and again that you’ll visit an online publication. We appreciate your attention, as well as your comments and suggestions. Every one of them was read, and many adopted. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, too, to our advertisers. We don’t charge our many readers, and your generous support has made this possible. We hope that your business has benefited from the attention your ads garnered both locally and internationally. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, as well, to our contributors. You’ve supplied us with interesting – indeed fascinating – insights into this Land of Wonder and its warm, welcoming people. The quality of your work shone brightly. We’re grateful.

Heartfelt thanks, finally, to our staff. You’ve worked tirelessly and without complaint under the pressures of deadlines. You’ve brought creativity to Cambodia Insight, along with a full measure of talent, hard work and good spirits. We’re grateful.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 5

06 An Island in Cambodia to Call Your Own

08 Biking in Cambodia: Extreme to Easy

10 Elvis of the Kingdom Gets New Star Role

14 Phnom Penh’s Fast-fading Architectural Treasures

16 Arnold Palmer Joins Cambodian Golf Boom

22 Bon Om Tuk Water Festival of Cambodia

26 36 Hours in Siem Reap, Cambodia

32 Cambodia: The Perfect Trip

38 Cambodia Uncovered

42 Tuk-Tuks, Temples, and Trauma in Cambodia

CONTENTS

Publisher and Managing DirectorEditor - in - ChiefSenior Creative DirectorCreative DirectorManager, Graphic Design &Print ProductionSales ManagerGraphic designGraphic designWebmaster & ProgrammerSales ExecutiveThailand Bureau Chief

Charles R. EvansDave Courtright

Don FinckKanyapat Evans

Savuth Sao

Chinda SovanAtchariya Priabnan

Sokum TimBunleab Hong

Eric LarbouillatPeter Richards

A Quarterly Magazine on Business, Economy, Tour-ism, Culture and Society in English for Cambodia. Founded in Siem Reap City in January, 2010 by Evans Marketing

Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd., 331 Tep Vont St., Tapul Village, Svay Dangkum Commune, Siem Reap - Angkor, 17000 Kingdom of Cambodia

Tel: +855 (0) 63.969.200/201 Advertising & SubscriptionsE-Mail: Advertising@CambodiaInsight.comE-Mail: Subscription@CambodiaInsight.com

@Copyright Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. The name Cambodia Insight.com, in either English or Khmer languages, its associated logos or devices and the contents of this publication and website may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without written permission of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd.

Cambodia Insight.com is a wholly owned publication and website of Evans Marketing Business Adviser Co., Ltd. Licensed by the Ministry of Information.

Although every care has been taken in the production of this magazine and website, no responsibility for errors or liability is assumed through the use of the information contained herein.

Cambodia Insight.com is an independent publication dedicated to providing our readers with informative content presented in a positive light helping to boost business investment, tourism, cultural awareness and the image of the country.

14

06

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Cambodia’s luxury real estate market is far less developed than neighboring Thailand’s, he add-ed, reselling villas here will probably be easier.

“As the country grows and tourism grows and becomes more developed, the value of those properties should only increase,” Mr. Hunter said.

All of the planned 27 villas are completed, and 20 have been purchased since sales began in De-cember 2009. The remaining seven — a mix of one and two bedroom villas — are on sale for $600,000 to $2 million. (Most investment con-tracts in Cambodia are written in U.S. dollars.)

By contrast, at Soneva Fushi, a villa resort in the Maldives, two-bedroom villas are selling for $4 million, said Edward Gibbons of Brocon Invest-ment, Mr. Hunter’s land-holding company, based in Phnom Penh.

Song Saa lies 29 kilometers, or 18 miles, from the mainland and consists of two islands, one of which is uninhabited. Together they cover a total area of just seven hectares, or 17 acres.

6

SONG SAA ISLAND, Cambodia — Approach-ing this modest outcropping of sand, rocks and tropical foliage off Cambodia’s coast, a local resi-dent might assume the thatched-roof huts on the shore belong to yet another remote fishing vil-lage. But the thatch is decorative, and the huts ac-tually are luxury villas owned by investors from a dozen countries.

Villa resorts on private islands are increasingly common across the Asia-Pacific region, especial-ly in the Maldives. But Song Saa, a $22 million project that opened in 2012, is Cambodia’s first.

Owners are entitled to spend 30 days per year in their villas. At all other times the property man-ager, Song Saa Hotels and Resorts, rents them for $1,336 to $5,153 per night. Some villas purchased before construction yield a guaranteed 10 per-cent return for the first three years, and the guar-anteed yield for the other properties is 8 percent for five years from the date of purchase.

Rory Hunter, the company’s chairman, said the villas are a promising investment partly because they are considerably less expensive than simi-lar-quality ones in the Maldives. And because

An island in Cambodia to call your own

A patio for one of the over-the-water luxury villas on Song Saa, a pair of islands in Cambodia. Photo Credit:Markus Gortz

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 7

Some guests arrive via a 35-minute ride in a private speedboat from Sihanoukville, a port city of about 235,000 that lies about 180 kilometers from the cap-ital, Phnom Penh. Others come by helicopter and land on nearby Koh Rong Island.

Mr. Hunter and his wife, Melita, spotted Song Saa seven years ago on a tour of the Koh Rong archipel-ago. And in 2007, he said, his investment company signed a 99-year lease for the island. (Cambodia’s 2001 land law allowed foreign investors to control land through leases and concessions.)

He said they initially approached international lux-ury brands, including Aman Resorts and Four Sea-sons Hotels and Resorts, about managing the villas, but later opted to create their own company.

The resort, which is powered by generators and has its own sewage system and water supply, lies on the fringe of a marine protected area in a pristine corner of the archipelago. One curving boardwalk connects the two islands, and another leads to an over-water bar and restaurant serving contempo-rary Cambodian cuisine.

The villas, which are sold furnished, include ele-gant nautical décor, like wall displays made from boat hulls, and the staff strives to create an experi-ence that offers luxury in an informal setting. Mr. Hunter said he and his wife, the island’s creative di-rector, aimed to make the atmosphere sophisticated but not ostentatious.

“People are interested because of the numbers, but what we’ve found is that by and large our investors then fall in love with the idea,” Mr. Hunter said.

Leases for the villas fall under Brocon Investment’s 99-year master lease.

Matthew Rendall, managing partner at the Phnom Penh law firm Sciaroni & Associates, said the ar-rangement was legally secure, and that it was high-ly unlikely the Cambodian government would ever breach Brocon’s master lease.

The central risk for investors, he said, is that Mr. Hunter’s hotel management company is not an es-tablished international brand.

Credit: Mike Ives

Villa at Song Saa Island

Villa at Song Saa Island

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 20148

We had just emerged from the jungle when my left crank fell off.

A cyclist really does not want this to happen, even in the best of times. The crank is the arm which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket of the bike. No crank means no go.

But this was not the best of times. We were in the middle of nowhere, Cambodia’s Srepok Wil-derness Area in Mondulkiri province, to be pre-cise. The wildlife ranger station was 40km back through the leopard-populated forest. And the nearest town was almost twice as far – up a hilly road – in the other direction. When things go wrong while mountain biking in Cambodia, help can really be a long way away. Moire O’Sullivan knows this feeling as well. Her recent four-day trip to the Cardamom Moun-tains turned into a litany of mishaps – from im-passable rivers and unrideable tracks to broken bikes and – ultimately – bodies. Her four-person guided tour survived trips over the handlebars, kinked chains and gear cables so clogged with mud they had to be replaced. They dangled themselves and their bikes from zip-wires to cross fast-flowing water and, with the rainy sea-son arriving early, battled the leeches to string up tarpaulins and hammocks between trees in the forest. The undulating, cratered terrain

proved too much for the suspension on one of the bikes, causing one rider to pull out. And another had to be evacuated after cutting his foot to the bone while crossing a waterfall.

But a hair-raising experience in the Carda-mom Mountains is a more extreme option for those who want to see Cambodia under their own steam. The country is mostly flat, so is ideal for novice and leisurely cyclists.

It is possible to ride fifteen minutes from the bustle of Phnom Penh and find yourself ped-alling through small villages, surrounded by shimmering rice paddies. Local children rush from their homes to shout hello at the passing riders, often adding “What is your name?” as they laugh and wave.

Meeting the recent demand in pedalling tourists, several companies now offer half- or full-day trips around Phnom Penh, often us-ing ferries or vans to spare riders doing battle with the traffic on the main roads.

“Cycle tours have grown up very quickly ......

Continue to page 17.....

Biking in Cambodia: extreme to easy

Approaching the South Gate of Angkor Thom

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 9

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201410

A documentary about the life of 1960s Cambodian singer Sinn Sisamouth will explore his glob-al legacy, Will Jackson reports.

It was in a rice field in rural Cambodia, a couple of hours drive south of Phnom Penh, that US filmmaker Chris Parkhurst began to truly understand the legacy of Sinn Sisamouth.

While shooting for their up-com-ing documentary Elvis of Cam-bodia last year, Parkhurst and his crew turned their cameras on a random eight-year-old boy and asked him if he had ever heard of the singer.

“[The boy] was like ‘yeah, yeah of course’ and started singing one of [Sisamouth’s] songs,” Parkhurst said.

“I don’t know anywhere in the States where you can just walk up to an eight-year-old kid and

ask them for instance, ‘hey, do you know who Elvis Presley is? Can you sing us a song?’

“Firstly, he may not even know who Elvis Presley is and, secondly, to be able to sing one of his songs is just remarkable.”

Parkhurst, who has previ-ously worked on documen-taries and advertisements in Cambodia, and his wife Stephanie Vincenti had been intending to make Elvis of Cambodia a straight-for-ward biopic of Sisamouth but after getting a sense of the remarkable impact that the singer continued to have on Cambodian society, they

decided to change the focus.

“When we first started to shoot we didn’t really realize the gen-uine love and affection for Sinn Sisamouth and his music,” said Vincenti via Skype from their home in Portland, Oregon.

“We knew he was popular, and we knew he had a lot of songs and was famous, but we didn’t know how much people loved him. The more we talked to peo-ple we realized we couldn’t just tell the story of his life, we had to show his impact and legacy and what he’s left behind.”

Born in Stung Treng in 1932, Si-samouth is regarded as one of the greatest singers of Cambo-dia’s cultural golden age having written and recorded scores of hit songs between the 1950s and 1975, from romantic ballads to rock and pop songs.

Parkhurst said while Sisamouth was a prolific songwriter – re-putedly penning as many as 1500 songs – he was best known for his voice.

“Certainly his voice, that’s the first thing that anybody points to, they truly believe that his voice is unparalleled and that nobody will ever have a voice as sweet as his,” he said.

Sisamouth was about 43 when he died in unclear circumstanc-es sometime during the Demo-cratic Kampuchea period. It’s presumed he was executed like many other singers and artists. He was survived by three chil-dren and his first wife.

Parkhurst said Cambodia’s “golden age” artists – like Sis-amouth and fellow singers Ros Sereysothea and Pen Ron who were also killed by the Khmer Rouge – still loomed large on the country’s cultural landscape.

“I’m fascinated with the idea that [the Khmer Rouge] could kill the singer but they couldn’t kill the music,” he said.

“And in many ways Sisamouth’s music and his pop stardom is bigger today and more import-ant to Khmers world-wide than it ever has been.

“So we’re sort of telling that sto-ry through a handful of people, both in Cambodia and Khmer Americans, who are really liv-ing their lives in a way that’s honoring the spirit of Sinn Sis-amouth.”

Elvis of the Kingdom gets new star role

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 11

Parkhurst said one of the cen-tral figures in the documentary would be Saron Khut, a Cam-bodian American who fund-raised $2,500. from the Cambo-dian diaspora and delivered it in person to Sinn Sisamouth’s widow Khav Thorng Nhot, who still lives in Stung Treng in north-eastern Cambodia.

One of the central characters in the documentary, Cambodian American Saron Khut.

“As a young Cambodian grow-ing up in America, Lok Sinn Sis-amouth music was my window to Cambodia,” Khut wrote in an email. “His music took me back to a country that I knew very lit-tle of.

“His songs painted all the beautiful pictures of Cambodia and its culture. I was educat-ed through his songs. I learned Khmer words and history from his lyrics.”

He said he felt it was import-ant to give the money to Sis-amouth’s family because it was the right thing to do.

“It is sad to see the surviving families of artists such as Ros Se-reysothea and Sinn Sisamouth

live a life of poverty while their music is being used and sold all around the world,” he said.

Since 1982 record companies have been selling bootleg cop-ies of “golden era” classics but the songwriters families haven’t received any royalties because of weak copyright laws and en-forcement in Cambodia and a lack of documentation proving who actually wrote the songs.

For the past 10 years, Sis-amouth’s son Sinn Chanchha-ya has been fighting on behalf of his family for control of the rights to his father’s songs.

However, Chanchhaya, who runs the Sinn Sisamouth Associ-

ation, said that money was not the family’s only concern.

He said the free-for-all on Sis-amouth’s songs meant that there was no quality control being maintained.

As record companies added new backing tracks and had new vocalists sing the songs, their meaning was being de-stroyed.

“Many of my father’s songs are romantic and gentle and now they change the songs and make them impolite,” he said.

“It’s like a cook has already made the food and added the spices and then they come along

Rous Sereysothea and Sin Sisamouth

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201412

and put more spices in and it’s not tasty any-more.”

He said his worst fear was that the younger gen-eration wouldn’t know who was responsible for the songs.

He added that if he was successful in establish-ing his family’s claim to Sisamouth’s songs it would pave the way for other families of dead singers to get royalties too.

Chanchhaya said a recent breakthrough may have brought the family a step closer to gaining control of Sisamouth’s legacy.

He said a drummer and Sisamouth fan had come forward with a huge cache of records he had managed to hide from the Khmer Rouge.

Chanchhaya last week submitted photographs of the records – which credited Sisamouth as songwriter – to the Ministry of Commerce as proof of the family’s claim to 180 songs.

“We have registered already and now wait for the government,” he said.

Minister of Commerce Sun Chanthol has prom-ised to examine and process the material with the aim of protecting Sisamouth’s work under the Kingdom’s intellectual property law.

In Cambodia copyright is valid for the creator’s lifetime plus 50 years which means Sisamouth’s

work should not pass into the public domain for another 20 years.

Parkhurst said there was still another nine months of principle photography to do on Elvis of Cambodia before editing could begin and the couple planned to shoot between three and six months of that while living in Phnom Penh later in 2013.

“As with any documentary, you start with an idea and that idea evolves along the way and you have to let that story tell itself so we’re still very much figuring out the story as we go along, who the major characters and players will be,” he said.

“We know Saron Khut is going to be a subject and of course Chanchhaya will be as well but we’ve got quite a few other people who have recently come down the pipeline.”

Asked what they wanted to achieve with the film, Parkhurst said he felt that Cambodians wanted to see some positive stories about Cam-bodia that didn’t just focus on the tragedy of the Khmer Rouge regime.

“I personally want to make this film because I know that Cambodians would be extremely happy to have this film told, a story of Sinn Si-samouth and how Khmers today are living in ways that honour his spirit and music,” he said.

CREDIT: Phnom Penh Post

12

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 13

Angkor Wat Temple

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201414

If the charm of a city is to be found in its archi-tecture, then Phnom Penh is less alluring than it used to be.

Its yellow-washed, green-shuttered, colonial-era buildings and angular, post-independence “new Khmer” architecture were both, rightly, renowned. They contributed to the low-rise ele-gance of the city, and even today’s travel guides and websites refer to Phnom Penh’s past as the “pearl of Asia”. But as land owners increasingly prize financial yield over urban heritage, the ar-chitecture is being lost.

Top Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann’s striking 1960s National Theatre was among the most notable casualties. Its triangular form re-sembled a ship, entirely fitting for its location near the banks of the River Bassac.

The theatre pre-dated the much larger, similar-ly-inspired, Sydney Opera House. But a fire in 1994 caused substantial damage, and despite a series of plans and promises it was never re-

paired. And when a well-connected proper-ty developer took control of the site, it demol-ished the theatre in 2008. Now all that remains is wasteland, surrounded by a blue, corrugated metal fence.

Another of Vann Molyvann’s constructions was the National Sports Complex popularly known as the Olympic Stadium. It is still standing, but obscured by newly-built shophouses and even a mall, which rob the design of the impact it made when open space surrounded it.

Colonial-era buildings are just as likely to suffer. There is a vacant lot where an elegant municipal tourism building once stood on the riverfront, and National Bank employees park their motor-bikes on the site of another demolished colonial classic.

Architect Yam Sokly reckoned a third of the buildings in central Phnom Penh have come down over the past decade and a half – mostly in the past five years. He said that without prop-

Phnom Penh’s fast-fading architectural treasures

The Gift of Napoleon III building, in front of the Royal Offices inside the Royal Palace Compound in Phnom Penh.

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 15

erly-enforced conservation laws, that trend is likely to continue.

“The main problem is basic knowledge, the un-derstanding and appreciation of urban heritage. Some of these buildings are not even 50 years old, which makes them too new for some people to accept them as heritage.”

Sokly is involved in an effort to change that. He leads groups as part of Khmer Architecture Tours. The company offers tourists – and resi-dents – a different perspective of Phnom Penh, one which may open their eyes to the treasures in their midst.

The original idea was beautiful in its simplicity – a downloadable map with buildings of interest marked on them. People were free to work out their own itinerary for walking, cycling or driv-ing around the architectural attractions.

But it soon became clear that there was a de-mand for more information. So Khmer Architec-ture Tours started to offer guided itineraries, led by qualified architect.

There are currently various options, from 1960s public housing projects to tours of the Olym-pic Stadium and university buildings. But for a uniquely Cambodian experience, the prize goes to the cyclo tours of the city centre.

Phnom Penh’s fast-fading architectural treasures

Just like Phnom Penh’s classic buildings, the cy-clo is an endangered species – a three-wheeled, pedal-powered beast with a comfortable seat for a passenger or two at the front, while the driver perches on high at the rear.

Once the main form of public transport in Phnom Penh, the cyclo is getting gradually pushed out by cars, motorbikes and tuk-tuks. Tourism offers the best hope to their drivers – typically mid-dle-aged farmers from the provinces coming in to the city to earn money between rice harvests.

Leaning back in the cyclo, moving at a stately pace, makes it easy to appreciate the aesthetic at-tractions of the city. On a typical tour, Sokly calls the convoy to a halt outside the most interesting buildings, so he can add some context.

There is the Post Office, a yellow-washed beauty surrounded by the finest collection of colonial-era buildings in Phnom Penh. Some are dilapidated but others have been spectacularly restored, in-cluding the former Bank of Indochina building, which now houses a fine-dining restaurant with an excellent view across the square.

Then there is Central Market (as it is known to tourists; its real name is Psar Thmey, or New Market) – also recently restored – an enormous, yellow, Art Deco UFO which has landed in the middle of the city.

By Guy De Launey

Royal University of Phnom Penh

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201416

Phnom Penh – Golfing great Arnold Palmer confirmed his company will build a 36-hole golf course in Cambodia, an official from Cambodia’s Sokha Hotels said recently.

Arnold Palmer Design Company had been retained to build the course at the new 1-bil-lion-dollar resort development by the Sokha group at the former French colonial Bokor Hill Station Resort, project manager Svay Vuthy said.

‘This was the company’s plan so we signed him. He is the best in the US and we want the best golf course in Cambodia,’ Vuthy said.

‘The plan is for the course to cover 200 hectares with 36 holes, but we will start by opening an 18-hole course so we can assess and observe the condi-tions. Construction is due to begin next year.’

Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen is perhaps the only world leader to list his golf scores on his per-sonal website, and the Cambodian elite, as in most of Asia, is golf crazy.

There is even a Korean-managed public putting range in the centre of the Cambodian Senate’s grounds.

Cambodia is also aggressively chasing the high-end tourist dollar, and golf courses have mush-roomed across the country in the past five years as

the country enjoys peace and economic stability.Palmer, 78, is among the great golfers of all time, winning seven major championships during his career, which began in the 1950s, and being in-ducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame in 1974.

His successful design company has designed 300 golf courses to date, according to his website, and prides itself on being in tune with the envi-ronment – an attractive trait for Bokor, which lies in a national park, around 200 kilometres from the capital.

Vuthy did not disclose the total cost of the course.

Credit: Golfincambodia.com

Arnold Palmer joins

Cambodian golf

boom

Cambodia Golf & Country Club

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 17

From page 8 : Biking in Cambodia..........

over the past two years,” said Prum Raksmey, the owner of Phnom Penh’s Offroad Cyclery, which offers bikes for sale and rent as well as organized tours.

Smey, as he is known, is something of a legend in the Cambodian cycling community. He has pioneered bicycle tourism in Cambodia for the best part of a decade and been heavily involved in organizing races and supporting Cambodian competitors in international events.

There is a twinkle in his eye as he describes the Cardamom Mountains as a “hard adventure”, but Smey said there are other options.

“You can do leisure rides, family trips, a soft adventure or up to 14 days’ cycling through Cambodia. You can combine it with journeys through Thailand and Vietnam. But for a short ride I like to go to Kirirom National Park – it’s a wonderful track, 960 metres elevation, with a pine tree jungle providing shade for the riders.”

December is perhaps the best month to vis-it Kirirom. The temperature is relatively cool,

and the annual Mountain Bike Challenge gives riders from across Southeast Asia the chance to test their skills on a track which has just the right mixture of technical challenges, taxing climbs and rapid descents in a picturesque setting.

Cooler winter months are also a good time to cycle around the ancient temples of Angkor, whether that means a leisurely exploration or entry in the annual December bike race for a more rapid “grand tour” of the monuments.

To meet locals, join one of the groups which set out from Phnom Penh every weekend. The pace of the rides ranges from leisurely to competitive, and increasing numbers of young Cambodians are taking part, attracted to the shiny new GT, Giant and Cannondale bikes which are now available in several shops around the city.

A machine like that would probably never have suffered a detached crank, like the vintage – and self-maintained – mountain bike which came to grief in Mondulkiri. But then we would have missed out on the fun of reattaching it armed with nothing more than the pliers on a Swiss Army knife.

Credit: Guy De Launey

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Ta Prohm Temple

18

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 19

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201420

The Angkor National Museum is the most important museum dedicated to the Angkor civilization in Cambodia and Asia. It is located in Siem Riep City, in the exclusive Charles de Gaulle Avenue, at the north of the National Road.

Its collection, exhibited in eight galleries (the Exclusive Gallery and the other ones identified from A to G), numbers several masterpieces of theAngkor temples and it is the most complete representation of the culture, history and archeology of the Golden Age of Cambodia.

The Charles de Gaulle Avenue is not far from the temples itself (about two kilometers from downtown). The facade keeps the harmony of the Angkorian unique architecture.

Comparable to any modern museum in the world, it has a fast ticketing service system (and it is possible to book online), a Guide Map and Audio Tour Set (personal translation device) with eight languages (Khmer, English, German, Korean, Japanese, French, Chinese and Thai.)

It is a highly recommended place to complete visits to the temples. The combination of modern technologies with its multimedia presentations is ready to introduce the visitor into the magic of the Angkor world.

The Museum is placed in 20 thousand square meters (65,616 sq. feet) surrounded with the Cambodian traditional gardens and the exclusivity of the northern area of Siem Riep City.

The Museum is the product of a joint effort of the Royal Ministry of Culture and Fine Art, the APSARA Authority and the Museum Co., Ltd. on a 30 year concession period. No doubt, it is a world class museum dedicated to the preservation of the Khmer artifacts, collections and restorations of the fascinating Angkor Civilization.

The Angkor National Museum is unique in Cambodia. It has its own style and its full inspiration in the ancient glorious time of the Khmer Empire, just at the doors of the temples.

by A. Rodas

Angkor National MuseumThe Legend Revealed

The Museum

Gallery 6 : Ancient Costume

LintelStyle: Banteay SreiDate : 10th CenturyDisplay in Gallery C

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201416 21

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201422

Bon Om Tuk (Cambodia’s Water Festival) is the country’s biggest cele-

bration and even regarded by some as the greatest festival in SE Asia. This three-day water festival, which takes place in the capital Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, is of great significance to Cambodians as it celebrates the end of the rainy season and the start of a new fishing season.

The festival takes place every October or November (depend-ing when the full moon arrives) and sees literally millions of people descend on the two cit-ies from all over Cambodia and beyond, with an estimated three million people often joining in the celebrations..

Both cities stage boat races, unique carnivals and festive ceremonies to mark the natural phenomenon of the Tonle Sap River reversing its flow from upstream to downstream. This extraordinary event takes plac-es due to the shift in current

as the rainy season draws to a close, with all the water which flowed upstream in the preced-ing months into a swelling Ton-le Sap Lake reversing direction and flowing back towards the mighty Mekong River.

Most of the year, the lake emp-ties into the Mekong. Yet when the rainy season begins in June, the river rises to reverse the flow towards the lake. With the rainy season coming to an end in No-vember, the Mekong begins to drop once again, allowing the reversal of the current and emp-tying Tonle Sap’s excess waters back into the Mekong.

The yearly flooding of the Me-kong provides fertility to the land, an abundance of fresh-water fish and livelihood for many people all over the coun-try. The water festival, therefore, is a thanksgiving celebration for both the life and sustenance which the river provides. The occasion is so significant that even Buddhist monks congre-

gate by the river to view the boat races.

The canoe-like-boats can be as long as 20 metres and represent different provinces and peoples from all over Cambodia. In fact, villages from throughout the country can spend almost all year preparing their boat for the occasion. They are elaborately and brightly decorated, with huge eyes on the prows so as to keep evil spirits at bay.

Upon the full moon’s arrival, thousands of people gather on the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers to enjoy the an-nual boat races. In Phnom Penh they race past the Royal Palace along a kilometre-long course. The government officials even sponsor the boats so as to create unity with the people.

Each boat is expertly steered by a team of between 30 and 40 skilled oarsmen and women. After all the races have finished and the sun has set, brightly

Bon Om Tuk Water Festival of Cambodia

Boat Racing

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 23

decorated boats with neon lights and banners drift down the riv-er in procession while fireworkslight up the night sky.

The boat racing tradition dates back to the era of ancient Khmer kingdoms. Carvings of Khmer naval forces heading out to bat-tle are on the Bayon temple’s walls. Due to the importance of the water in ancient battle, Bonn Om Tuk is also believed to com-memorate King Jayvarman Vll and his naval successes during the Twelth century.

Therefore, the racing and boat procession represents the an-cient methods of exercising the naval forces on the water so as to prepare them to defend their nation. Water festivities were also staged during the reign of King Jayvarman Vll to ensure the happiness of the river divin-ities and bring the land bounti-ful harvests.

Three other ceremonies also take place in addition to the boat

races. The first, Loy Pratip, is the evening fluvial parade which features i l l u m i n a t e d boats beautiful-ly lighting up the waterways. All of the boats participating in the parade are sponsored by government in-stitutions.

Next on the agenda is Sampeas Preah Khe, where locals salute the moon. It has long-since been a belief of the Cambodians that the full moon is a good sign for the up-coming harvest, which is why locals consider it important to thank it and pray that the har-vest ahead is bountiful.

Finally, at midnight, those still celebrating gather at temples throughout the city to eat am-bok, a flattened rice holiday dish consisting of rice fried in

husks, dished up with coconut and bananas. Although ambok is eaten at this specific event, it can also be bought throughout the three-day water festival period.

A special ceremo-ny staged within the temple’s grounds is the traditional light-ing of 24 candles, each of which represents a Cambodian prov-ince. As each candle burns, the melting wax drips onto the ba-nana leaves. Many be-lieve that the shapes

formed on the leaves by the wax will predict each province’s lev-el of rainfall and, thus, forecast-ing the success of the harvest in each city.

During the three days, Phnom Penh develops a carnival atmo-sphere. In addition to the river banks being lined with joyous spectators, there are live con-certs, food stands everywhere, fair rides, games of chance, night time fireworks and people dancing all around. The city is certainly the best to be for truly celebrating Bon Om Tuk.

The other option, Siem Reap, is not as lively but does offer an alternative. The city organiz-es its own boat races and has historical significance as it was the site of King Jayvarman Vll’s original boat races. It also offers the incredible backdrop of An-gkor Wat. The celebrations may not be on the same scale as the capital, but there are enough boat races, fireworks and cele-brations to keep people enter-tained.

Credit: 1stopcambodia.net

Racing at Siem Reap

Getting the boats to the river

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 20142422 24

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 2523 25

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 20142626

AS captivating as the temples of Angkor may be, Cambodia’s scorching sun, gritty air and pot-

holed roads inevitably take their toll on even the hardiest travelers. Perhaps it’s by necessity, then, that Siem Reap, the town that lodges and feeds Angkor’s million annual visitors, has evolved into a chic haven of rest and relaxation. An international group of chefs has set up the country’s finest tables there, and bartenders in the vibrant night life are versed in sophisticated cocktails. Contemporary art has also found itself a home, with a gallery scene intent on nurturing local artists. It’s as though Siem Reap is finally picking up where the Angkorian kings left off some 600 years ago, resurrecting itself as the center of Khmer taste and culture.

1. 5 p.m.FridayANGKOR ART

With Angkor Wat’s inspiring beauty just five miles away, it’s not hard to see why Siem Reap

is at the heart of Cambodia’s flourishing art scene. Galleries are popping up in renovated shop houses, and hotels now exhibit the work of young Khmers and regional expats. Art Venues, a free brochure available in upmarket hotels, maps out walking tours to the town’s best spots. McDermott Gallery (FCC Complex, Pokamor Avenue; 855-12-274-274; www.mcdermottgallery.com), known for its emo-tive, dreamlike photographs of Angkor, takes Asia’s cultural heritage as its curatorial focus. At the Arts Lounge inside the fashionable Hotel Park Hyatt (Sivatha Boulevard; 855-063 211 234; www.siemreap.park.hyatt.com), contemporary works fill

36 Hours in Siem Reap, Cambodia

The ruins of the ninth-century Phnom Bakheng temple in the Angkor Archaeolog-ical Park

Angkor WatAngkor Wat

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 2727

the minimalist space, where well-heeled guests sip designer cocktails like the Oolong Kiwi Sling, made with tea and vodka.

2. 7 p.m.SWINGING CURRIES

Cambodian cooking doesn’t get the attention it deserves, especially compared with the fare of its food-trendy neighbors, Thailand and Viet-nam. Though the basic ingredients are similar — lemongrass, garlic, ginger, fish sauce — Khmer

cooking is subtler and lighter, employing less chili, pungent herbs and coconut milk. For an innovative lesson on local flavors, sample the ex-tensive menu at The Dining Room, a dimly light-ed Art Deco-themed restaurant at the Park Hy-att. Dishes might include Mekong River prawn with garlic, thyme, and butter, and honey glazed baby pork ribs with a Kampot pepper sauce. To heighten the experience, dine on one of The Din-ing Room’s hanging cushioned daybeds, which swing alongside a flame-lighted pool.

3. 9 p.m.FLOWER BATH

Prolong the post-dinner buzz with a pre-slumber rubdown at Frangipani Spa (617/615 Hup Guan Street; 855-12-982-062; www.frangipanisiem-reap.com). With modern art on the walls and fresh orchids in vases, the spa feels like the plush digs of a fashionable friend’s home. Sink into the low sofa as you sip tamarind juice while your feet are bathed in a frangipani-filled tub, the prep to a glorious 60-minute massage (from $22).

4. 5 a.m.SaturdayVIEW FROM ON HIGH

It might be brutal, but it’s worth getting up this early to experience the famous Buddhist temples of Angkor Archaeological Park (admission, $20), the 155-square-mile area that counts Angkor Wat among its more than 100 temples. Less crowded at this hour is the ninth-century Phnom Bakheng, a five-tiered, rectangular temple built on a hill. The few lotus-shaped towers that remain are tes-tament to the 108 that once stood. You’ll have to work for the view: it’s a 15-minute hike up to the sandstone terrace, which overlooks an endless expanse of jungle and mist-shrouded hills. It’s a mesmerizing spot from which to watch the sun paint the sky in blues and oranges.

Bathing in Flowers

Bayon Temple

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201428

5. 11 a.m.MINING FOR HISTORY

It’s on an idyllic country road lined with stilt houses and lush, neon-green rice fields, but the Cambodia Landmine Museum (20 miles north-east of Siem Reap on the road to Banteay Srei; 855-12-598-951; www.cambodialandminemu-seum.org) is a jarring reminder of the country’s three decades of war. Established by a former Khmer Rouge child soldier named Aki Ra, the museum provides a detailed account of Cambo-dia’s political and social upheaval, including the Khmer Rouge insurgency, which ended only 10 years ago. Efforts to clear unexploded ordnance and millions of land mines have been made since the 1990s, yet it’s estimated that fewer than half have been cleared. Mr. Aki Ra has deactivated about 50,000 of them; many are on view.

6. 12:30 p.m.COLONIAL COOKING

Cambodia’s heat and intensity demand long, replenishing lunches. Only a Frenchman could dream up Chez Sophéa (across from Angkor Wat; 855-12-858-003), an open-air restaurant with wooden tables and white linens that serves rillettes de canard, charcoal-grilled steaks and crème de chocolat — all next door to the temples. The owner, Matthieu Ravaux, lives on the prem-ises, so you’re technically eating in his dining room. Set menu for $18.

7. 4 p.m.FAIR-TRADE SHOPPING

After a lunch-induced nap, it’s time to put your dollars to good use at some of Siem Reap’s com-munity-friendly shops. In the center of town, Senteurs d’Angkor (Pithnou Street; 855-63-964-

801; www.senteursdangkor.com) sells spices, coffee and bath products, wrapped in palm-leaf packages. For flirty frocks and custom-made quilts, try Samatoa (Pithnou Street; 855-63-96-53-10; www.samatoa.com), a fair-trade label that specializes in silk. The hand-painted cards and cute canvas bags at Rajana (Pub Street; 855-12-481-894; www.rajanacrafts.org) are pro-duced by Cambodians down on their luck.

8. 7 p.m.COMMUNIST KITCHEN

There’s no need to reserve a table at Restau-rant Pyongyang (4 Airport Road; 855-63-760-260) — it seats over 400. Besides, it would be anti-Communist. Every evening, between serv-ings of fantastic bulgogi ($8.70) and bibimbap ($6), pretty North Korean waitresses in short red dresses put on elaborate song and dance routines. Though the tile floors and faux-wood paneling aren’t exactly impressive, the cultural pageantry is. With a karaoke screen displaying waterfalls and snow-capped mountains, the girls perform peppy propaganda tunes.

9. 10 p.m.RED LANTERN DISTRICT

With a name like Pub Street, you won’t have any trouble finding Siem Reap’s prime night-life drag. But if beer girls, big-screen TVs and $3 pitchers aren’t your style, head a block north to Miss Wong (the Lane; 855-92-428-332) for a taste of vintage Shanghai. The cherry-red lan-tern that dangles from the doorway beckons passers-by. Slip into one of the intimate leather booths for an Indochine Martini, a mixture of vodka, ginger cognac and fresh pineapple juice ($4.50). For dance beats and late-night snacks, take the party two blocks to trendy Linga Bar (the Passage; 855-12-246-912; www.lingabar.com), a mixed lounge with killer mojitos.

10. 7:30 a.m.SundayBARGAIN BREAKFAST

Early morning is social hour for Khmers, with men filling outdoor cafes to sip iced coffee and women gathering at local markets to shop and

Landmine Museum

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 29

eat breakfast. At Psar Chaa, or Old Market, the butchers and produce sellers will be in full force, peddling dried fish, fruit stacked in neat pyramids, and freshly pounded kroeung (an herbal paste used in many dishes). Pull up a plastic stool at one of the food counters and or-der a bowl of bai sac chruuk — superthin piec-es of grilled pork served with white rice and a tangy cucumber and ginger salad (about $1).

11. 11 a.m.SLEEPING BEAUTY

Until a few years ago, tough road conditions meant that only the bravest travelers ventured to Beng Mealea (45 miles from Siem Reap on the road to Koh Ker), a sprawling sandstone tem-ple that has been nearly consumed by the jun-gle. But a new route replaced the single-plank bridges and motorbike-only track, cutting the travel time from a half-day to just under an hour by car. Built in the 12th century, this forgotten sanctuary is nearly as big as Angkor Wat but gets a fraction of the visitors. The destruction is breathtaking: towers reduced to tall mounds of rubble, thick webs of tree roots snaking through the walls, and faceless carvings, their heads cut out and sold. Still, the place has seen worse: un-til 2003, the surrounding grounds were littered with land mines. Now it’s ripe for a fresh start.

THE BASICS

Flights to Siem Reap from the United States require a plane change. A recent online search found an Asiana Airlines flight from Kenne-dy Airport to Siem Reap, via Seoul, starting at $1,200 for travel in January. From Siem Reap Airport, it’s a $5 taxi ride into town.

The Khmer-chic rooms at La Résidence d’An-gkor (River Road; 855-63-963-390; www.resi-dencedangkor.com) have hardwood floors, silk and bamboo accents and giant whirlpool tubs. Rooms start at $175.

With its minimalist aesthetic, neutral palette and saltwater pool, the seven-room Viroth’s Hotel (0658 Wat Bo Village; 855-63-761-720; www.viroth-hotel.com) provides a welcome re-spite from temple overload. Rooms from $80.

Credit: Naomi Lindt

Phsar Chas or Old Market

Beng Mealea Temple

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201430

Private TouringSmall Group ToursUnique Travel Experiences

Multi Day PackagesDifferent Destinations

Community Connections

H/P : +855 (0) 17.906.721Tel : +855 (0) 63.969.200

30

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 3131

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201432

The Royal Palace

Cambodia: The perfect trip

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 33

Marvel at the palaces, markets and bars of the capital, Phnom Penh, before heading north to Siem Reap for excursions to a floating village on Tonlé Sap Lake and the extravagant, inspirational temples of Angkor. From there, it is south to the untouched jungles of the Cardamom Mountains, finishing with a homestay on a rural family farm.

Phnom Penh: Best for culture

Phnom Penh is eerily quiet. A sole remork – the usually ubiquitous motorised rickshaw – rolls languorously past the Royal Palace to a deserted Tonlé Sap riverfront. Here, among the shut-tered-up shops facing the palm-lined promenade, food stalls sell noodle soup and beef skewers to infrequent customers.

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

The peace doesn’t last. As the Khmer festival that emptied the city ends, Phnom Penhois who’d been drawn to rural family gatherings in their tens of thousands flood back to the capital and the be-guiling chaos resumes. After a troubled history, which reached its nadir with the Khmer Rouge’s enforced eviction of the city in the ’70s, the ‘Pearl of Asia’ is thriving, with a flourishing café culture and a glut of world-class fusion restaurants.

Tonlé Sap: Best for lake lifeIn the village of Me Chrey, the streets are made of water and the wooden houses float. The village’s 500 families are among the thousands who have settled on the surface of the freshwater Tonlé Sap, Cambodia’s ‘Great Lake’, where, not surprisingly,

life revolves around the water. As dawn breaks, Me Chrey is already abuzz. Toddlers paddle small aluminium tubs down the main street, fruit and vegetable sellers in bright floral clothing and conical hats navigate boats between houses, and householders check for breaches in ‘fish banks’ – submerged reed baskets where fish are kept until market day. Shouted greetings and lively chatter are punctuated by the occasional snort of a pig from a floating pen. Further out on the water, a family retrieves traps and nets laid out in wide, intricate arrangements.

It’s an itinerant existence. The floating houses, which are tied to one another, are moved by the villagers four times a year to follow the migrat-ing fish stocks. The lake’s wildly fluctuating di-mensions also a play a part. In the rainy season, Tonlé Sap swells to more than 6,000 square miles, raising the floating houses by around eight me-tres. Dry season sees the potential spots to anchor reduced significantly.

34

Tonle Sap Lake

Phnom Penh

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Tourism on The rise

35

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Locally known as The ‘Palace’, this is the only interna-tional ve-star resort designed and built by a Cambodian architect; its décor and furnishings re ect the nest in Cambodian architecture, be tt ing dignitaries and guests

from all over the world. Nestled invitingly within a spacious 11-hectare estate, the lush resort evokes the serenity of a secluded retreat dott ed with lush tropical landscaping, waterfall and Cambodian sugar palm trees.

No. 555, Phum Kruos, Khum Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia Tel:(855) 63 760 511 Fax:(855) 63 760 590 / 63 966 335 info@angkorpalaceresort.com www.angkorpalaceresort.com

ASEAN Hotel Standard2010-2011

Cambodia’s Premier 5 Star Luxury Spa ResortAngkor Palace Resort & Spa

in Siem Reap-Angkor

36

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 37

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

The ‘new Vietnam’, the ‘must-see’ of Southeast Asia, Indochi-na’s ‘finest jewel’ – call it what you will, Cambodia is big news.

The ancient temples of Angkor near Siem Reap have always drawn big crowds, but now the rest of Cambodia, including its capital Phnom Penh, is making its mark.

SELL: A move up market

Healing from the dark days of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge regime during the 1970s, this land of temples, French-colonial towns, rice paddies and beautiful is-lands has everything going for it. Picture Khmer stilt houses, floating villages, orange-clad monks and white-sand beaches – this is Cambodia. Add to that friendly locals keen to share their country’s history and cul-ture and it’s hard to resist.

Born out of the Khmer Empire, which ruled much of the neigh-boring region 1,000 years ago, Cambodia has history and cul-ture by the bucket load. It’s not

Cambodia uncovered

surprising tourism is now its second-largest income source with 3.6 million international tourists in 2012, a 24% increase on 2011 and a figure that is re-flected in UK bookings. “We’ve had an excellent year in south-east Asia with bookings at an all-time high,” says Tim Green-ing, director at KE Adventure Travel. “Burma’s a big reason, but for the first time, Cambo-dia is selling well. We’ve always had people adding Angkor Wat from Thailand or Vietnam, but now Cambodia is becoming the prime destination.”

One of the biggest changes has been Cambodia’s move from a backpacking destination to one with wider appeal, according to Dragoman Travel. “There’s been significant growth in its offering of more luxurious accommo-dation, and a large expansion in the small-group adventures market,” says marketing man-ager Lorna Archibald.

With more flights connecting Cambodia within southeast Asia and several leading airlines

making UK connections easier, such as Qatar Airways’ new ser-vice to Phnom Penh, Cambodia is easy to visit on a multi-coun-try Indochina tour. Alterna-tively, there is a wide choice of escorted tours, self-guided tai-lor-made holidays or trips along the Mekong River.

Although a year-round des-tination, travelling between mid-November and Febru-ary when evenings are cooler is common. Off-peak between June and October’s rainy sea-son is rewarding too, with few-er tourists, greener scenery and Angkor’s temple moats filled with water.

SEE: Angkor, then what?

Siem Reap: The base for most visitors to the Khmer temples of Angkor is Siem Reap, which is a destination in itself – its night markets are second only to Phnom Penh’s, and it has ex-cellent restaurants and a grow-ing cafe culture. The temples of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Phrom and more are a few miles

38

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Pokambor Avenue, Mondul 1, Sangkat Svay DongkumSiem Reap, Angkor, Kingdom of Cambodia

Tel : (855) 63 380 117 / 760 087 , Fax: (855) 63 963 528Email: info@taprohmhotel.com Website : www.taprohmhotel.com

Ta Prohm Hotel

39

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

away. The best guides steer you to lesser-visited ones for uncrowded sunrise and sunset experiences. To avoid temple fatigue, a boat trip to Tonlé Sap lake’s floating villages is a pop-ular day trip.

Phnom Penh: One of SE Asia’s most underrated capitals, its markets, riverside restaurants, rooftop bars and Mekong Riv-er setting make it a must. His-toric sights such as the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and an excellent National Museum are worth visiting, while the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek (Killing Fields) are sobering, but important expe-riences to understand Cambo-dia’s recent history.

Battambang: This laid-back French-colonial town on the Sangkae River is perfect for a change of pace. Culturally rich, it has some of Cambodia’s best-preserved architecture, beautiful wats and is easy to ex-plore on foot or by bike. Expe-riences include the Battambang Circus and riding the bamboo train outside town.

Sihanoukville and the islands: Coastal town Sihanoukville is renowned for budget beach liv-

ing, but an increasing number of five-star resorts and four-star boutique hotels are open-ing, such as Sokha Beach Re-sort and Moha Mohori. But it’s the islands such as Koh Rong and Ream National Park’s Koh Thmei and Koh Seh that amaze. For off-the-scale luxury, private-ly-owned Song Saa Island offers everything from private pools to its own reef.

Kep and Kampot: Along Cam-bodia’s eastern coastline is a region of mountains, waterfalls and national parks, home to riverside town Kampot with its old French quarter, and revived colonial seaside resort Kep with

its boutique hotels and local speciality, crab. Koh Tonsay has beautiful beaches and the near-by national park has good trails.

Elsewhere: The Cardamom Mountains in western Cambo-dia offer walking trails, wildlife and waterfalls amid tropical for-est, as well as community-based ecotourism village Chi Pat. The NE Ratanakiri province is home to rare Irrawaddy dolphins.

STAY: Who to book with

First-timers, active travellers, foodies – it’s all covered. Intrep-id Travel’s Classic Cambodia (six days from £635 excluding

Chi Pat EcoTourism

Battambang Bamboo Train

40

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

flights) combines Angkorian temples with Phnom Penh’s his-torical spots, while Hayes & Jar-vis’s nine-night Cambodia Dis-covery (from £2,099) and Gold Medal’s seven-day Cambodia Discovery (from £630 land-on-ly), also cover main attractions.

Gold Medal also offers day tours such as Angkor Wat from £43. Travel Indochina’s exten-sive Cambodia itineraries in-clude a seven-day Highlights of Cambodia cultural tour (£785 excluding flights) with special sunrise access at Angkor Wat.

For food-lovers, Western & Oriental’s seven day Culinary Cambodia (starting at £2,089) includes a cooking class, lunch at a Phnom Penh restaurant that trains disadvantaged children and home cooked food with a Khmer family.

Going local is integral to G Ad-ventures’ 10 day/eight night Cambodia on a Shoestring Tour (£499 excluding flights and most of the meals,) which visits one of its proj-ects, the New Hope vocational restaurant in Siem Reap, which trains disadvantaged women.

For nature lovers, Mountain Kingdoms’ 16-day Cardamom Mountains Trek (from £1,325 excluding flights; £2,555 with) explores this wild-life haven in southwest Cam-bodia while Explore’s 13-day Heart of Cambodia tour (from £1,897) includes a cruise search-ing for Irrawaddy dolphins.

For cyclists, Cambodia’s terrain is ideal. KE Adventure Travel’s

best-selling 16-day Backroads of Cambodia (from £1,720) is an easy-graded trail from Angkor Wat to the Cardamom Moun-tains and the operator is intro-ducing a walking tour to Koh Rong in 2014. Biking through rural Cambodia is also offered on Exodus’ 16-day Cycle Indo-china and Angkor (from £2,049) and Explore’s new 15-day Cam-bodia by Bike (from £1,798).

For comprehensive coverage, consider Intrepid’s Best of Cam-bodia (14 days from £820 ex-cluding flights), Imaginative

Traveller’s new 14-day Best of Cambodia (from £660 excluding flights) and Wendy Wu Tours’ 16-day Around Cambodia (from £2,390) which includes Battam-bang, Kep and Kampot.

Cox & Kings’ Cambodia in Style, a 14-day private tour (from

£3,395) to Bangkok, Battambang, Phnom Penh and Kep, is ex-cellent for those who have already visited Angkor. Regent Hol-idays’ 14-day Cam-bodia in Depth also delves deeper.

For family and youth travel, The Adventure Company’s Indochi-

na Family Adventure (17 days from £2,192 per adult/£2,082 per child) uses internal flights to mi-nimise travel time and books ho-tels with pools. Explore’s Edge brand targets 18-30s with its 10-day Cambodia on a Shoestring (from £499 excluding flights).

Top multi-country itineraries include Intrepid Travel’s 18-day Best of Vietnam & Cambodia (from £1,295 excluding flights) and Dragoman’s 18-day Indo-china Explorer tour (from £925 plus kitty/flights) to Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. Intrep-id Travel also sells short-break add-ons, such as Secrets of An-gkor (three days from £210), which includes a Buddhist mon-astery visit.

For cruise travellers, AmaWa-terways’ seven-night Vietnam, Cambodia & the Riches of the Mekong sails from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap (from £1,124 cruise-only) and Western & Ori-ental’s eight-day The Lost Civ-ilization: Saigon to Siem Reap (from £1025) is on board bou-tique ship Jayavarman. Aqua Expeditions is also expanding into Indochina in 2014 with a luxury vessel sailing from Siem Reap to Vietnam via Phnom Penh.

Credit: Meera Dattani

Cardamom Mountain Waterfall

Irrawaddy Dolphins

41

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014

Cambodia is fast becoming an essential stop for backpackers

With picture-perfect beaches at Sihanoukville, backpacker-friendly prices in Phnom Penh and timeworn temples at Siem Reap there’s little won-der why.

3.5 million globetrotters flocked to Cambodia last year. That’s a whopping 24% rise on the year be-fore. They come from far and wide, increasingly to volunteer on community projects but always to marvel at its beautiful and ancient sights.

This is all quite new. Cambodia’s beauty was hid-den from tourists for decades after the notorious dictator Pol Pot expelled all foreigners in 1975, keeping away from the refugees and landmines until the 1990s. Now Cambodia is moving onwards and upwards, its doors wide open with welcoming smiles. My visit was a bizarre combination of geno-cide tourism, cultural quirks and many temples. Phnom Penh’s healing scars

Cambodia’s capital city echoes a trauma from when, quite suddenly in April 1975, its entire population was marched into the countryside to work as im-poverished peasants. When the survivors returned four years later, Phnom Penh was devastated.

Thirty years on it’s still poverty-stricken and one of the least popular cities in Southeast Asia. But the tourist industry is growing in leaps and bounds.

Riding around the city on tuk-tuks is a bound-less joy. Wind and dust in your hair, you’ll zoom past beautiful and distinct Khmer architecture, glittering temples and orange-clad monks with yellow umbrellas. The golden and uniquely Khmer Royal Palace, built in the 1860s, sits on the Tonle Sap and Mekong river junction and truly is architecture for kings. Don’t expect to be dazzled everywhere though. Limbless and child beggars are the tragically common consequence of Cambodia’s landmin-es, and abject poverty remains abundant.

Even some of Phnom Penh’s entertainment rose out of the Khmer Rouge years. At a shooting range on the city’s outskirts a few dollars can buy anyone target practice with an AK47 and, for a few more, an RPG.

Remains of the Khmer Rouge

The city’s quirky charms aside, the real remnants of the Khmer Rouge are impossible to miss. Its surviving leaders’ war crime trials are still going on, and a trip to Phnom Penh makes the slaugh-ter of a third of the country’s residents within those few short years seem incredibly recent.

The unambiguously named Killing Fields lie just outside the city at Choeung Ek, one of many sites containing the remains of the murdered mil-lions. The memorial stupaneeds little in the way of explanation, bearing shelves upon shelves of five thousand human skulls. A walk through the

Tuk-Tuks, Temples

and Trauma in Cambodia

42

Ta Prohm Temple

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 43

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201444

old orchard and I came across a set of human teeth etched into the dusty ground. Many whose final resting place is here came di-rectly from a torture centre named Tuol Sleng, a former high school in Phnom Penh where just twelve of 17,000 inmates survived. Now a geno-cide museum, tour guides frequently have their own horror story to tell. Mine recalled several lost family members, and will never know how or where they died. She works there to remem-ber them.

Khmer Glory at Siem Reap

Cambodia’s star attractions – definitely more cheerful – are the ancient temple ruins to the north of Phnom Penh, in the sparse rural area around Siem Reap.

From the alternate Wonder of the World at An-gkor Wat, enormous and with its square moat, to the vines and twisting trees at the ruins of Ta Prohm (think Angelia Jolie inTomb Raider), you’ll need a few days at least to fully explore the thousand or so ruins in the Siem Reap area. They’re the survivors of the Khmer Empire with its sprawling metropolis at Angkor, once home to around one million people, a figure London did not reach until the nineteenth century. The Khmers ruled for 500 years over what is now Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and the fringes of Vietnam and Myanmar between the ninth and thirteenth centuries – and their ancient capital is still unrivalled as containing the largest reli-gious moment in the world.

Watch out for the biting monkeys, though. Those guys won’t take no for an answer if there’s food around, and remember to watch your step for

the snakes slithering through the undergrowth. A viable option avoiding both is taking the hot-air balloon high above Siem Reap, and looking for miles across the ancient and rural landscape.

If you find the town too touristy, stay at a hotel further out for a bigger room at a better price. Tuk-tuks are (always) the best travel option so hire one for the whole day to take you around the temple areas.

Don’t miss…

The floating villages at Tonle Sap lake. Unusual and primitive, though many tourists complain about getting ripped off for boat trips. Tasty fried spiders. Actually I skipped these, and have never looked back. Buddhist temples, known as wats. Beautiful and golden inside and out. Bamboo Island, just off Sihanoukville, for beach huts and sandy paradise.

Credit: Gapyear.com

Fried Spiders

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 2014 45

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201446

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201445

47

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201446

WAT

DAMNAK

AREA

OldMarket

Area

WatBo

Area

OldFrenchQuarter

TaphulVillage

Area

Camb dia InsightDigital Magazine

PhsarKandal(CenterMarket)

RoyalResidence

N

SW

E

Siem Reap Map

WatKesararam Preah Ang Chek

Preah Ang ChormShrine

RoyalIndependence

Gardens

Wat PreahProm Rath

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

WatPo Lanka

WatDamnak

Wat Bo

National Road No 6

Airport Road

Sivath

a Blvd

.

Sivath

a Blvd

Samdech Tep Vong Street

Taphul R

oad

Street No. 2 Thnou

Stre

et N

o. 9

Alley

Wes

t-Pas

sage

wayAlley

Eas

t-The

Lan

e

Stre

et N

o. 7

Acha Mean Street

Hotel De La Paix

Pub

Stre

et (S

t.8)

ATM

Street No. 11Street No. 10

OLDMark

et

Oum Khun Street

De Silk

HProvincialHospital

Poka

mbo

r Av.

Route

to t

he

Tem

ple

of

Angkor

ShintaMani

GoldenOrange

AngkorPalaceResort

U-Care Pharmacy

Ta Phrom Hotel

Camb dia InsightDigital Magazine

48

OCT - DEC, 2014 OCT - DEC, 201447

WAT

DAMNAK

AREA

OldMarket

Area

WatBo

Area

OldFrenchQuarter

TaphulVillage

Area

Camb dia InsightDigital Magazine

PhsarKandal(CenterMarket)

RoyalResidence

N

SW

E

Siem Reap Map

WatKesararam Preah Ang Chek

Preah Ang ChormShrine

RoyalIndependence

Gardens

Wat PreahProm Rath

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

WatPo Lanka

WatDamnak

Wat Bo

National Road No 6

Airport Road

Sivath

a Blvd

.

Sivath

a Blvd

Samdech Tep Vong Street

Taphul R

oad

Street No. 2 Thnou

Stre

et N

o. 9

Alley

Wes

t-Pas

sage

wayAlley

Eas

t-The

Lan

e

Stre

et N

o. 7

Acha Mean Street

Hotel De La Paix

Pub

Stre

et (S

t.8)

ATM

Street No. 11Street No. 10

OLDMark

et

Oum Khun Street

De Silk

HProvincialHospital

Poka

mbo

r Av.

Route

to t

he

Tem

ple

of

Angkor

ShintaMani

GoldenOrange

AngkorPalaceResort

U-Care Pharmacy

Ta Phrom Hotel

Camb dia InsightDigital Magazine

WAT

DAMNAK

AREA

OldMarket

Area

WatBo

Area

OldFrenchQuarter

TaphulVillage

Area

OLD

MARKET

JasmineLodge

Angkor TKBou SavyGuesthouse

JasmineLodge

Ta SomGuesthouse

Khmer Inn Angkor

Green Garden Home

Tany KhmerFamily Kitchen

Lucky Mall(Lucky Supermarket

lucky Department,Store, Monument Toys...)

SBC

hello point

Nest

Mekong AngkorPalace

MekongBank

Kazna Hotel

Charming CambodiaTours

Central BoutiqueAngkor

King AngkorVilla

Naga Guesthouse

Baca VillaSala Bai

Good NahThe Villa Siem Reap

Zone One

Salina Hotel Hotel de la Paix

Phnom PenhSorya Transport

Tany Family Lodge

Brickhouse Bar Movie Mall

Garden VillageGuesthouse

Sawasdee Angkor Inn

Peace of Angkor

Palm Garden Lodge

Le Méridien

Borei Speak Neak InnJayavarman VII Hospital(Performances by Beatocello)

Sofitel Royal Angkor(Couleurs d’Asie Located Inside)

Hidden CambodiaAdventure Tours(office)

HiddenCambodiaAdventure(workshop)

Royal YogaMadamsachiko:

Angkor Cookies &Café Puka PukaNot to

scalesTara Angkor

Asia Craft Centre(ACC)OnlineD’mouj

The Museum Mall(Monument Books)

AngkorNationalMuseum

Raffles GrandHotel d’Angkor

La Villa Mona d’AngkorShining Angkor Boutique

Victoria Angkor

AngkorShopping

Center

Ya-TepShrine

National Route No 6Panida

CAB Bank

Obriot Gallery

Prince d’Angkor

Angkor MarketMaster SukiSoup

Curry Walla 1

ACLEDA

Helistar

UCB

Samdach Tep Vong Street

PhsarKandal(CenterMarket)

SBC

Canadia Hong Kong RestaurantHappy Herb Pizza

Fresh Fruit Stands

Intra Co.Happy Special Pizza

Vattanac BankDead Fish Tower

Tell Restaurant7 Girls Khmer Massage

Happy Angkor Pizza

CAB BankCurryWalla 2

Mekong Guilts

Molly Malone’sWanderlustEncore AngkorNeng Sinath

Tattoo MachineRed PianoGuesthouseGolden

TempleVilla

Sok SanKhmer Taste

India GateTerrasse des

Elephants

Artisans d’Angkor

Ancient Angkor Inn

Airport RoadCaltex

Taph

ul Ro

ad

Sivatha B

lvd

Street 02

Street 03

MC Dermott GalleryRed GalleryVisaya Spa

FCC Angkor

RoyalResidence

Casa Angkor

Royal DayInn AngkorResort

Camintel

Shinta Mani

Mandalay InnDivine Lotus Inn

Angkor Friendship InnAngkor Spirit Palace

TaneiQuesthouse

Angkor TrekTour

POSTOFFICE

L’Escale desArts et desSens

CambodianRed Cross/AngkorPanaorama

Angkor Hospitalfor Children

ANZ Royal BankAdidas

Asian TrailsPich ReamkerFrangipani Spa

Senhoa Nail Spa Terre CambodgeThe Emerald LotusBoutique Hotel

Common Grounds

IvyGuesthouse

PROVINCIALHOSPITAL

Relax Massage KhmerHome Cocktail

Blue 7 Massage Happy Angkor PizzaBodia Spa

U-CareBe VIPLittleIndia

Traditional Khmer MassageKokoon/Blue Pumpkin

Angkor CandlesIsland Massage Viva

Le GrandSenteursd’Angkor

NeakKrorhorm

MaharajahTourex Asia

Banana LeafTemple Club/Balcony

RajanaKhmer Family

Red PianoBBG

ChamkarChampey

AmokMcDermott GalleryAha Sao Mao

Cherry Blossom BoutiqueV & A

Europe-Asia Tours/Massage

AmaryTNT

Golden Banana

IKTTFive Star VillaSiem Reap Reverside (50 meters)Sayon’s House (300 meters)

GoldenBananaBoutiqueResort

Wats UpGreen VillagePalace

Angkor VillageResort

Not toScale

Dragon Royal7 Makara ECU(Office)

River Village ManorMorokat Mart & Coffee ShopThe Emerald Lotus Boutique

Suki BBQ

Angkoriana HotelTonle Chaktomuk andChaopraya Coffee

TourismDepartment

Mysteresd’Angkor

Not toScale

CathelicChurch

GoldenOrange

Angkor Wat in Miniature(Artist Dy Proeung)

Golden Mango Inn(150 meters)

Dara Reang Sey Hotel(350 meters)

Bus Station(800 meters)

Roluos Group(12km)

Phum Stoeng Trocheat(13km)

Phnom Penh(314km)

Phsar LeuThomThmey

AngkorDiscover Inn

Borann I’Aubergedes Temples

Angie’s Villa

Reaksmey Star Travel/CTV

PhsarSamaki

FreedomHotel

La Noria Hoteland Restaurant

Yaklom Lodge &Sawasdee Food Garden

Not to Scale

Mom’s Guesthouse

Home CocktailAngkor World TravelClaremontAngkor and East IndiaCurry

New ApsaraMarket

Peace ofAngkor Tours

EuropeanGuesthouse

MotherHome Guest House

Home Sweet Home GHTwo Dragons

Street 20

Street 21

La Résidenceof Angkor

Paris Saigon

Samdach Tep Vong StreetViroth’s Restaurant

Angkor Rivieara Hotel/Gingkgo Spa

Selantra

Le CaféStreet 22

Street 23

Street 24

Street 25

Street 26

Street 27

City River Hotel

Viroth’s HotelBopha Angkor

Soria MoriaMPA

Shadow of Angkor II

Butterflies Gardent

Singing TreeCafé

Apsara Theater

Angkor Village

SamVeasnaCenter

Les Orientalistes

Siem Reap HospitalAlliance CaféPassaggioBoutique Hotel

Road to the temp

le of Angkor

Po

kamb

or A

V

Angkor Trade Center(Pizza Co., Swensens)

Shadow of AngkorRehab Craft

Body Tune MassageKampuccino

Old MarketBridge

Wat B

o Ro

ad

Ach

ar Sva Street

Siem Reap

RiverPark an

d Pro

men

ade

Oum Khun Street

Street 05

Ou

m C

hh

ay Street

Street 14

2 thnou Street

Street 9

Street 8

Street 7

Street 11

Street 10

WatKesararam Preah Ang Chek

Preah Ang ChormShrine

RoyalIndependence

Gardens

Wat PreahProm Rath

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

WatPo Lanka

WatDamnak

Wat Bo

Wat PreahAn Kau Sai

Ta ProhmHotel

Evans

Marketing

Siem Reap City Map(Town Center)

Restaurant & Bar

Tour/Travel Agent

Hotel with restaurant

Other

Shopping / Boutique

Spa / Massage

Bank / ATM

Pagoda

0 50m 100m 150m 200m 250m

N

SW

E

National Route #6between town center and theSiem Reap International Airport

Airport Road

Airport

Phokeethra Country Club(5km Past Baray)National Silk Center(16km from town)Dragon Rayal City - PuokDragon Royal City - Kralanh

Ecole d’Hotellerie at deTourisme Paul Dubrule/Le Jardin des Délices

Pacific HotelRoyal Angkor Inn Hospital

Royal Angkor ResortEmpress Angkor

Angkor MiracleResort & Spa

Dragon Royal Hotel

GSO Travel

Senteur d’Angkor(workshop)

First TravelReasmey Tep Pranom

DiethelmApsara AngkorNew Market AngkorTotal

Angkor Oasis

Vietnam AirlinesCambodia Angkor Air

AbacusACLEDA

Angkor TKThe Kool Hotel

Khiri Travel

Angkor HomeBangkok Airways

The One MassageHealthy Hand Massage

Earthwalkers

Angkor PalaceResort & Spa

Reaksmey Crystal

The Sothea

CambodianCultural

Village

250 m. 500 m. 1 km.N

SW

E

Temp

leArea

Phnom Dei

Prasat Banteay Srey

To Phnom Kulen/Kbal Spean

Phnom Bok

Prasat Banteay Samrae

Prasat Touch Prei Prasat

Prasat Kamnap

Prasat Leak Neang

Ea

ste

rn B

ara

y(d

rie

d u

p)

Prasat Toep

Prasat Prey RoupEastern MebonPrasat Ta Som

Prasat Bat Chum

Prasat Kravan

Banteay Kdei

Prasat Ta Prum

Kroi koPrasat Prey Neakpean

Prasat Ta Ney

Prasat TakaeoThommanon

Prasat Banteay Prei

Prasat Prey KhanKraol Romeas

Chao Say Tepda

Angkor ThomBayon

Nokor Krau

Prasat Baksei Cham KrongPhimeanakas

Baphuon

Prasat Banteay ThumPrasat Prey

Angkor Wat

Ta Prohm Ke

Phnom Bakheng

Prasat Ta Noreay

Siem ReapAirport

Prasat Prel

Prasat Kaoh Ho

Pralay

To P

oip

et

Prasat Kouk Pou

Prasat Phnom Rung

Wat BakongPrasat Prei MontPrasat Preah KoLoley

Prasat Ou KoekT

o P

hn

om

Pe

nh

Kuk Talech

Tram Neak

Prasat Dounso

Preah Enteak Kosei

SIEM REAP

Prasat Reaob Kanda

Prasat Patri

To Tonle Sap Lake

Wat Chedei

Prasat Kraom

E

WN S

Western Mebon

Western Baray

Prasat Ak Yum

63

66A

66B

66A

67

6

6

Angkor Wat

AngkorNight

MarketCambodian

TraditonalKhmer

ViVa

H

M

CorporateMarketingIntegrated Marketing Strategies

49

PROMOTIONS,EVENTS TRAVEL,

TOURS ANDTICKETING

PUBLISHING

E - MARKETING

INTERACTIVEMULTIMEDIAMARKETING

STRATEGYCONSULTANTS

INCENTIVEMARKETING

PUBLICRELATIONS

H/P : +855 (0) 17.906.721Charles@CorporateMarketingIntl.com

CorporateMarketingIntl.com

om

@CorpCoC

4

/P : Charles@C

H/P l @

H/PF :

H/P

T

/

Multi - CulturalIntegratedSolutions

Camb dia BusinessInvestment50

51