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Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port / Donibane-GaraziMunicipal hostel (32, 8 breakfast included) Refuge Municipal/Accueil Plerin up rue de la Citadelle, near the top of the hill on the left. If it's not open ask in the Pilgrims Office. Website: www.aucoeurduchemin.org Private Hostel (18, 26 with evening meal and breakfast, April to September) Beilari (was L'Esprit du Chemin, under new ownership from early 2014) on rue de la Citadelle opposite the Pilgrims' Office. Communal evening meal, where pilgrims introduce themselves, and breakfast. They also do packed lunches. Website www.beilari.info or 05 59 37 24 68 Private hostel (24, 15, April to October) Auberge du Plerin at 25 rue de la Citadelle. Recently opened in a beautifully renovated building. Kitchen. They do a communal evening meal. You can reserve from their website www.aubergedupelerin.com or 05 59 49 10 86 Private Hostel (25, 10) Sur le Chemin - Au Chant du Coq on rue de la Citadelle, just down from the Pilgrims Office. Tel 06 74 31 02 83 Private Hostel (11, 15 with breakfast) Gte Ultreia at 8 rue de la Citadelle. Kitchen. Breakfast. Run by two ex-pilgrims. Reservations from their website: www.ultreia64.fr or 06 80 88 46 22 Private Hostel (20, 17 with breakfast) Auberge le Chemin vers l'Etoile on rue d'Espagne which is down the bottom of rue de la Citadelle. Laundry facilities, kitchen. They do evening meals and breakfast. Some negative reports. 05 59 37 20 71 Private Hostel (15, 15 with breakfast) Maison Kaserna also on rue d'Espagne. They also do an evening meal. Tel 05 59 37 65 17 Private Hostel (15, 15) Refuge Esponda on Place du Trinquet in the centre of town. Kitchen. Tel 06 79 07 52 52The town has all the facilities you're likely to need. There is a wide variety of accommodation ranging from pilgrim hostels to luxury hotels. Many hostels, hotels and guesthouses (Chambres d'Hte) are on rue de la Citadelle in the old town, and the parallel Place du Gnral de Gaulle. About a 10 minute walk from the railway station. There are also many restaurants in this area. The Pilgrims Office / Acceuil St Jacques is also on rue de la Citadelle near the top of the hill. They can give you a Credencial, information and advice on weatherconditions, and help finding accommodation, etc. Open until 22:00 in summer. If it's not open ask in the municipalhostel, which is next door. There's a Champion supermarket and a bank on Avenue du Ja Ala. On Place du Gnral de Gaullethere's a Tourist Information, a pharmacy and a bank. There are two routes between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles. The lower right route goes through Valcarlos, and the

higher left route goes through Orisson. In winter it's important to ask in Saint-Jean about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the left route is often impassable in winter. In mountainous areas such as these, weatherconditions can change very quickly.Leaving Saint-Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch of Porte d'Espagne and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating the two routes.

Right route 25km / 6 hrs via Valcarlos. The lower route. After turning right on to this route continue straight to the main road which you follow to the left. After about 500m there is a signposted turn to the right down a side road. Follow the signs for Valcarlos/Luzaide and Roncevaux (French forRoncesvalles).10km / 2 hrs to Arnguy, this village (almost like a Basque Berlin) is divided bythe Spanish/French border. Shops, restaurants and cafs.Entering Navarra and SpainBetween Arnguy and Valcarlos there are twooptions; walk on the road or a narrow path through the village of Ondarolle. The road is less strenuous but also less attractive.

13km / 3 hrs to Valcarlos / LuzaideMunicipal hostel (24, 10 with breakfast) on Plaza de Santiago on the ground floor of the school. Kitchen with microwave and coffee machine. If it's closed ask in the town hall or (the shop) Venta Ardandegia or the tourist office.Shop, cafs, pharmacy and a bank. Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow, in which case it's advisable to follow the main road.Ascending 800m to the Pass / Puerto de Ibaeta (altitude 1057m) and descending 100m to arrive in Roncesvalles after 12km /3 hrs from Valcarlos (allow extra time for the ascent).

Left route (Route Napoleon) 26km / 6 hrs Ascends 300m to...

4km / 1 hr to Honto / HonttoPrivate hostel (22, 14) Auberge Ferme Ithurburia to the left of the Camino. They do an evening meal and breakfast. It's advisable to reserve 05 59 37 11 17. Website: www.gites-de-france-64.com/ferme-ithurburiaAscends 250m to...

3km / hr to OrissonPrivate hostel (18, 31 with evening meal and breakfast) Refuge Orisson. On the Camino on the right in an isolated location. It's advisable to reserve in advance.

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They also do an evening meal. Telephone 05 59 49 13 03 or mobile 06 81 49 79 56 website: www.refuge-orisson.com Their caf does snacks during the day. Duringpeak times they rent spaces in tents.Caf.Ascends 650m to the pass at Col Lepoeder (altitude 1550m) before descending 500m to Roncesvalles.Entering Spain and NavarraThere are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the one to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the one to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along a gravel road,via the church at Puerto de Ibaeta.19km / 4 hrs to Roncesvalles from Orisson (allow lots of extra time for the ascent and decent).

Left and right route rejoin in... Roncesvalles / Roncevaux / OrreagaMonastery hostel (183, 10) Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles in a newly renovated part of the monastery. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Opens at 13:00, closes at 22:00. Stupendous, modern facilities. The old Albergue Itzandegia (which has perfectly adequate facilities) is still used as an overflow. In winter pilgrims are accommodatedin the main monastery building.Everything is grouped around the monastery. The Pilgrims' Office / Oficina de Informacin al Peregrino is through one of the doors to the right of the main entrance to the monastery. They can give you a Credencial. Tourist Information in the old mill, left of themain entrance to the monastery. There is a special blessing for pilgrims during the final mass which starts at 20:00 Monday to Friday and 18:00 at weekends.3km / hr to Burguete. Several cafs on and near the main street open for breakfast. One, a little after where the Camino turns right, is also a bakery. Guesthouses, a bank, a pharmacy and a shop - however, most businesses won't be open ifyou're passing through early in the morning.The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign.

6km / 1 hrs to Espinal / AurizberriPrivate hostel (25, 10, Easter to October) Albergue Irugoienea on Calle Oihanilun in Barrio Santiago which isleft at the main road. They do evening meals and breakfastand will pick you up from Roncesvalles and drop you back there in the morning. Reservations possible from their website www.irugoienea.com Phone 649 412 487 Newly opened in 2013. Private hostel (30, 12) Albergue Haizea on Calle Saroiberri, also left at the main road. Newly opened in 2013 as an addition to a guesthouse. They have a caf and restaurant. Reservations from their website www.hostalhaizea.com or on 948 760

379.Caf, bakery and shop on the main street.6km / 1 hrs to Viskarret, caf on main square, shop on your left when leaving the village. 2km / hr to Linzoain where there's a community caf which seems to only open in the evenings.9km / 2 hrs from Linzoain to Zubiri with a300m descent into the valley of the river Arre.The Camino continues straight along the riverbank and doesn't go through the village of Zubiri which is on the other side of the river.

16km / 4 hrs to ZubiriPrivate hostel (12, 15) Albergue Ro Arga Ibaia in the first building on the left after crossing the bridge. Kitchen.New in 2014. Private hostel (24, 10, March to October) Albergue Zaldiko, on the right after you cross the bridge to enter the village. Cramped dorms. Tel 609 736 420 Private Hostel (57, 15 with breakfast, March to October) El Palo de Avellano. From the bridge, continue straight to the church and turn right on to the main road, Avenida de Roncesvalles, the hostel is on the right. Laundry facilities. They do an evening meal. Tel 666 499 175 Municipal Hostel (44, 8, March to October) Albergue de Peregrinos de Zubiri. Continue alone Avenida de Roncesvalles and it's on your left after about 200m. Kitchen with coffee machine. Has seen better days. If locked call 628 324 186. Private hostel (22, 15) Albergue Suseia continue past theMunicipal Hostel, past the swimming pool about 200m and it's on a street of new houses on the left called Calle Murelu. Kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 948 304 353Shops, cafs and a bank. In summer you might be able to use the swimming pool in the sports centre. Pensin Goikoa has been recommended. Bar Baserri, on the square in front of the church does a good Pilgrim Menu as does the restaurant, Gau Txori. Toget to Gau Txori continue straight from the municipal hostel, away from the village, for about 400m until you reach a major road junction, it's opposite. The cafeteria inthe sports centre Polideportivo may also do a Pilgrim Menu. You'll pass it on the way from the municipal hostel to Gau Txori.The Camino by-passes Larrasoaa. If you want to visit the village you'll have to cross the river.

5km / 1 hrs to LarrasoaaMunicipal hostel (72, 6, February to December) Albergue de peregrinos del Concejo de Larrasoaa on Calle San Nicols. Near the church. Kitchen. Many, many, many negative reports about this hostel. Private hostel (6, 16 including breakfast) Bide

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Ederra turn left after crossing the bridge. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Opened in 2014. Tel 948 304 692The village caf may do meals and sells some groceries, irregular opening hours. If you follow the main road northfor about 1km / hr there's a good restaurant on the left.4km / 1 hr to ZuriainPrivate hostel (16, 9) Parada de Zuriain on the left just over the bridge. Laundry facilities. Opened in 2014. Tel 699 556 741Caf.4km / 1 hr to ZabaldikaParish hostel (18, Donative, May to September) Albergue Parroquial de Zabaldika, just beside the church of San Esteban (see below). Laundry facilities, kitchen. Positive reports.Huarte is about 2km / hr off the Camino following the river.Municipal hostel (60, 10, April to September) Albergue Municipal de Huarte on Plaza San Juan in Huarte which is about 1.500m off the Camino. After the picnic area, instead of climbing the hill continue following the river until you come to Huarte, from there it's signposted. Laundry facilities, kitchen. The town of Huarte has all facilities. Ask in the hostel for directions back to the Camino. Tel 948 333 4133km / hr to VillavaParish hostel (36, 8, March to November) Hermanos Maristas / Trinidad de Arre in the building on your right as you cross the bridge over the river Ultzama. Kitchen. The hostel is in a beautiful, old building and has a nice, enclosed garden. They encourage you to eat at a restaurantbeside the Municipal Hostel where the food is mediocre. Municipal Hostel (48, 9 with breakfast, February to November) in Villava on Calle Atarrabia, after the Parish Hostel continue along the Camino and it's to the left. Laundry facilities, microwaves. Tel 948 517 731On the Camino through Villava there are shops and several cafs, which open for breakfast, a bank, a pharmacy and a municipal swimming pool.It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. All services available. The Camino turns right shortly before a roundabout with a fountain in the middle and crosses a main road. Here arrows directyou to the right, however you can also go left then right (do not cross the bridge!) for a more pleasant walk along the banks ofthe river. When you see a 'zig-zag' footbridge, crossing this will bring you directly to Casa Paderborn. Otherwise continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.

4km / 1 hr to Pamplona / IruaPrivate hostel (26, 6, April to October) Casa Paderborn, run by German volunteers. Beside the river, cross the zig-zag bridge or turn left immediately after

Puente de la Magdalena. Garden. Phone 948 211 712 Private Hostel (20, 18 with breakfast, closed during San Fermn) Albergue Casa Ibarrola on Calle del Carmen, which is on the Camino just as it enters the old city. Positive reports. Laundry facilities and kitchen. Phone 692 208 463 Municipal Hostel (114, 8, closed during Christmas and San Fermn) Jess y Mara on Calle Compaa near the cathedral. Kitchen. Under the management of Aspace, an organisation which offers employment to people with special needs. Phone 948 222 644 Private hostel (24, 16) Hostel Ciudadela on Calle Ciudadela. Kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 616 786 479 Private Hostel (30, 16 including breakfast and towels) Hostel Hemingway on Calle Amaya 26 in the new city not far past the bullring. Walk south on Calle Estafeta and continue straight. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Tel 948 983 884 Private hostel (26, 15) Aloha Hostel on Calle Sangesa, in the new city. From the Post Office walk down Avenida San Ignacio to Plaza Principe de Viana, Calle Sangesa is opposite and a little left. Kitchen. Opened in 2014. Good reports. Tel 648 289 403 Private hostel (22, 16) Albergue Xarma on Calle Baja Navarra. The easiest way to get to it is from is to continue straight across the bridge at the roundabout with the fountain before entering the city where the Camino veers right. Kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 948 046 449 Pamplona, with a population of 197,000, is the biggest city on the Camino Francs. Tourist Information on Plaza Consistorial, next to the Ayuntamiento. Supermarket Carrefour on Calle Mayor which is on the Camino. Pilgrim shop Caminoteca open from 07:00 every day, has everything for pilgrims, run by pilgrims from Hungary, Calle de Curia. Caf / Bakery Grannier open from 07:00 on Calle Zapatera. Locutorio / Call Shop for SIM cards, internet, faxing, printing, on Calle Mayor. Free WiFi on Plaza del Castillo. If you need to forward excess luggage there's a Post Office / Correos on Paseo Sarasate, just south westof Plaza del Castillo, open Monday to Friday 08:30 to 20:30 and Saturday 09:30 to 14:00. Pamplona also has hotels to suit everyone's pockets. However, beware! Pamplona is popular for party / stag / hen weekends and much of the accommodation around thecentre caters principally to this clientle. Pensin Escaray on Calle Nuevo has singles from 20 and is recommended. The famous running of the bulls / encierro takes place here during the San Fermn festival from 7 to 14 July. During this time this otherwise pleasantand beautiful city becomes something resembling Backpacker Hell. It also becomes impossible to find accommodation, even for pilgrims.If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress at the corner of Avenida del Ejrcito and Avenida del Pio

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XII. The path through the park, with the fortress to your left, is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Follow it out of the park on to Calle de la Fuente del Hierro.

5km / 1 hrs to Cizur MenorOrder of Malta hostel (27, 4, May to September) Albergue Sanjuanista beside the church on your left as you enter the village. Kitchen. Private Hostel (52, 10, December to October) Albergue Roncal a little further up, turn right at the crossroads. Nice garden, kitchen, vending machines for coffee, drinks and snacks.The restaurant Asador El Tremendo at the mini-roundabout does a Pilgrim Menu. There's a small shop with limited stock on the Camino a little further on. Fiestas Exaltacin de la Santa Cruz 14 September, San Andrs Apstol 30 November.Ascends 350m and descends 250m over the next 12km.

6km / 1 hrs to Zariquiegui / ZarikiegiPrivate hostel (16, 11 with breakfast, Easter to September) La Posada de Ardogi on Calle San Andrs, left at the church. Laundry facilities, microwaves. Run by a friendly Spanish lady who provides TV-dinner type evening meals. Tel 948 353 353 Private hostel (8, 10) Albergue San Andrs on Calle Camino de Santiago, straight on past the church and it's onthe right. Kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 948 353 876Caf and shop.Descends 250m, on loose gravel which must be tackled with care, to...

6km / 1 hrs to UtergaPrivate hostel (16, 10, March to October) Camino del Perdn on the left. Caf and restaurant with Pilgrim Menudownstairs. Friendly hostel with good food. Tel 948 344 598Fresh drinking water from the village drinking font with its famous inscription, De Pamplona a Puente, en Uterga la mejor fuente / From Pamplona to Puente (la Reina), in Uterga the best fountain, (although sometimes dry in summer) and drinks from vending machines. Right route 4km / 1 hr straight to Obanos or... Left route 7km / 1 hrs to Obanos via Eunate 2km / hr to Muruzbal, caf / restaurant.Here you can go right to go straight 2km / hr to Obanos or left 2km / hr to visit Eunate.

4km / 1 hr to EunateReligious Hostel (12, donativo, January to November) Santa Mara de Eunate. Right beside the church. Also evening meal and breakfast. Pilgrim blessing in the church in the evening.The church at Eunate is closed on Mondays and during the month of December. Otherwise it's open: January,

February and November 10:30 to 14:30; March, April, May, June and October 10:30 to 13:30 and 16:00 to 19:00; July, August and September 10:30 to 13:30 and 17:00 to 20:00. Entry is free.3km / hr to Obanos

Right and left routes rejoin in... ObanosPrivate hostel (36, 8, April to October) Albergue Usda. Near the church, signposted from the Camino. Kitchen with microwaves and a courtyard with a fig tree. Tel 676 560 927Two restaurants with Pilgrim Menus, one opposite the hostel and another on a nearby street corner. Bakery and shop on the square in front of the church.There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Obanos there are steps down to the left which lead you on a slightly meandering path away from the road. If you choose to continue straight ahead you'll follow a path parallel to the road passing Albergue Jakue.

3km / hr to Puente la Reina / GaresPrivate hostel (92, 12, April to September) Albergue/Hotel Jakue on the side of the main road before the town. In the basement of a hotel with caf and restaurant. Newly renovated. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Excellent, eat-all-you-can buffet-style evening meal 11. Also breakfast. Tel 948 341 017 Religious Hostel (100, 5) Padres Reparadores, near the church as you enter the town. Kitchen, garden, laundry facilities. Private hostel (36, 12, April to October) Albergue Puente on the Camino on the right. Kitchen. New in 2014.Tel 661 705 642 Private hostel (6, 12 including breakfast, February to December) Albergue Estrella Gua on Paseo de Los Fueros which is left where the Camino crosses the main road. Laundry facilities, kitchen with microwaves. New in 2014. Tel 622 262 431 Private hostel (20, 10) Albergue Amalur on Calle Cerco Viejo, which is to the right where the Camino crosses the main road and then second left. Laundry facilities. Restaurant and breakfast from 06:00. New in 2014. Tel 948 341 090 Private hostel (100, 8) Santiago Apstol straight up the hill after you cross the bridge leaving town. Caf. Swimming pool in summer. Evening meal 8. Breakfast 4. Laundry facilities. Spacious dorms. Tel 948 340 220The Camino passes along Calle Mayor where you will find a caf / bakery on your left which is open for breakfast, several restaurants which do Pilgrim Menus and several shops. Restaurant La Plaza is good. The restaurant in Albergue Jakue is popular with the locals. There are banks and more cafs on the main road and a supermarket on Calle del Cerco Viejo. The town festival isthe last weekend in September and involves a certain

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amount of livestock-related mayhem.There's quite a steep climb before arrivingin...

5km / 1 hrs to MaeruPrivate Hostel (12, 10 including breakfast, April to September) Lurgorri on Calle de Esperanza. Kitchen. Breakfast from 07:00. Tel 649 021 705Caf and a shop.3km / hr to Cirauqui / ZiraukiPrivate hostel (28, 10, mid-January to mid-December) Maralotx behind the church. Kitchen, laundry facilities. They do dinner for 10. Excellent reports. Tel 678 635 208Bakery, bank and shop on Camino.6 km / 1 hrs to Lorca / LorkaPrivate hostel (14, 7, Easter to October) Albergue de Lorca on the right. Has a caf downstairs, laundry facilities, kitchen. They do a pilgrim menu. Private Hostel (36, 8, April to October) La Bodega del Camino on the left. Friendly caf and restaurant downstairs does a pilgrim menu. Laundry facilities. Tel 948 541 162Both hostels have cafs. Drinking fountain beside the playground on the left. Leaving the village on the left there are vending machines selling cold drinks and snacksmuch cheaper than in the cafs in the village.5km / 1 hrs to Villatuerta / BilatortaPrivate hostel (40, 12) Albergue de Peregrinos de Villatuerta or La Casa Mgica on Calle Rebote to the right of the Camino in a beautiful, renovated building. Kitchen laundry facilities. Massages also available. Welcoming, laid-back, make-yourself-at-home atmosphere. Tel 948 536 095The sports centre caf and Bar Rebote do food. There's a bakery, a bank and a small supermarket near the church. The town festival is the Fiesta a la Virgen on 15 August.3km / hr to Estella / LizarraMunicipal hostel (104, 6, closes mid-December to mid-January) Albergue de Peregrinos de Estella on your left as you enter the town. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Parish hostel (30, donativo, Easter to October) Albergue Parroquial San Miguel. Turn right over the bridge just before entering the town and follow the signs. Kitchen. Good reports. Private Hostel (30, 7 with breakfast, May to September) ANFAS run by a local association for persons with special needs. On Calle Cordeleros. Turn right over the bridge just before entering the town and follow the signs. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Good reports. Tel 948 534 551 Youth hostel (120, 14, April to November) Albergue Juvenil Oncineda continue straight from the Municipal until you come to a roundabout, the hostel is at the end of Calle del Mosaterio de Irache which is to your right.

Kitchen and laundry facilities. They may do dinner and breakfast. Tel 948 555 022Estella is a big town with all services available. There are several restaurants on the main square, Plaza de los Fueros. The library on Calle Julio Ruiz de Alda has Internet access and a caf / bakery on the same street opens for breakfast. There's a Tourist Information on Calle San Nicols, straight on from the municipal hostel. Fiestas Patronales 2 August, San Andrs 30 November.2km / hr to AyeguiMunicipal hostel (30, 8) Albergue San Cipriano. On Calle Polideportivo, in the sports centre. Tel 948 554 311Cafs, shops and bakery nearby. Fiestas San Cipriano 10 September.1km / hr to Irache where you can stock upon free wine.The Camino splits shortly after Irache. Distances are from Ayegui.

Right route 19km / 4 hrs 7km / 1 hrs to Villamayor de MonjardnPrivate hostel (20, 15 with breakfast, March to October) Albergue Villamayor de Monjardn, just to the right of the Camino. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Newly opened in 2013. Religious Hostel (20, 8, sometimes closed in winter) Hogar de Monjardn run by a very earnest Dutch evangelical Protestant group, up steps on your right as youpass the church. They do an evening meal 8 and breakfast 4. in 2011 the old Parish Hostel closed because its roof fell in.A caf which claims to open every day. There is also a post office.12km / 3 hrs to Los Arcos

Left Route 19km / 4 hrs This route bypasses Villamayor de Monjardnand passes instead through beautiful forested countryside and the village of Luqun (where there is a caf by the swimming pool with irregular opening times)before arriving in Los Arcos after 19km / 4 hrs.

Right and left routes rejoin in open countryside 10km before Los Arcos. Los ArcosPrivate hostel (44, 9, February to December) Casa de Austria or La Fuente on a street to the right of Calle Mayor entering the town. Kitchen, breakfast 3 (with black bread!). Tel 948 640 797 Private Hostel (32, 10, March to October) Casa de la Abuela on your right on Calle Mayor a little further down. Kitchen, laundry facilities. They don't allow you to hand wash clothes but for 1 they'll machine wash it for you. Breakfast with home-made cake. Tel 948 640 250 Municipal Hostel (70, 6, Easter to October) Isaac Santiago after crossing the bridge it's on the right. Run by Belgian volunteers. Garden, kitchen, free WiFi, massages.

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Private Hostel (20, 10) Casa Alberdi a little past the Municipal hostel on the right hand side. Laundry facilities,basic cooking facilities. The last resort! Tel 650 965 250Entering the town you come directly on to Calle Mayor. Tourist Information off Calle Mayor on the right near the Ayuntamiento. Continue straight on Calle Mayoruntil you come to the square on the main road, Plaza del Coso, where there are several restaurants and banks. Mesn de Garganta, which is opposite the main entranceto the church does a good Pilgrim Menu. Caf Abascal underneath Hotel Monaco, on Plaza del Coso, does decent food and is open for breakfast. A small shop opposite the main entrance to the church opens in the evening. Fiestas Los Arcos 16 May, Nuestra Seora de la Asuncin y San Roque 16 August.6km / 1 hrs to SansolPrivate hostel (26, 10, Easter to October) Albergue Sansol on Calle Barrio Neuvo just to the right of the Camino. New in 2014. Tel 609 203 206 Private hostel (10, 5, April to October) Albergue Arcadi y Nines on Calle Taconera to the right of the Camino. Kitchen. Tel 618 197 520On the main road, to the left of the Camino, is a caf and a restaurant which does a Pilgrim Menu.1km / hr to Torres del RoPrivate hostel (54, 10) Casa Mariela, to the right on the Camino. Laundry facilities. They have a restaurant which does a pilgrim menu and breakfast. Tel 948 648 251 Private Hostel (42, 10) La Plata de Oca. On the Caminoon the left. Recently reopened. They have a caf and a restaurant and open for breakfast. Laundry facilities. Negative reports. Tel 948 378 457 Private Hostel (26, 7) Albergue Casa Mari, up the hill from the main square on Calle Casas Nuevas (signposted).Kitchen, laundry facilities. Family atmosphere. Tel 948 648 409Caf on left as you enter the village, small shop to your right near Casa Mariela. Fiestas in honour of La Vera Cruz (The True Cross) second weekend in September.12km / 3 hrs to VianaPrivate hostel (15, 10) Albergue Izar on Calle del Cristo on the left as you arrive in town. Laundry facilities. Tel 660 071 349 Parish hostel (15, donativo, June to September) Albergue Parroquial de Viana, in the church building Iglesia Santa Maria, entrance from the square Plaza de los Fueros beside the church. Kitchen. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Prayer service in the church (participation is not optional). Municipal Hostel (54, 8) Alberguera Andrs Muoz down a street to the left near the end of the town. Kitchen. Cramped dorms and 3-level bunks. Coffee and snacks from machines. In winter you'll need to call 609 141 798 (or whatever number is on the door)There are shops, cafs and restaurants, and a bakery

(open early in the morning) on Calle Mayor (on the Camino), between the church and the municipal hostel. The restaurant of the hotel Palacio de Pujadas does an excellent Pilgrim Menu. A caf on Plaza de los Fueros (beside the church) is open early. Fiestas Santa Mara Magdalena 22 July with a full week of outdoor festivities. Fiestas de la Virgen de Nieva 8 September.Entering La Rioja

9km / 2 hrs to LogrooPrivate hostel (85, 10) Santiago Apstol on Calle Ruavieja just after crossing the bridge. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Also a backpackers hostel so possibly noise problems. Municipal hostel (98, 7, April to October) Albergue de Peregrinos de Logroo. Follow the Camino, it's shortly after crossing the bridge on Calle Rua Vieja. Patio, kitchenand laundry facilities. Recently renovated and under the management of the city council. Parish Hostel (30, donativo) Albergue Parroquial de Santiago. On Calle Barriocepo, continue straight on Calle Rua Vieja, veering right until you come to the church of Iglesia de Santiago el Real. Communal evening meal. Private Hostel (22, 12) Albergue de Peregrinos Albas onPlaza Martnez Flamarique, turn left after crossing the bridge into town and follow Calle de San Francisco and Calle de la Madre de Dios then turn right on to Calle del Doce Ligero de Artillera then first left on to Calle de la Manzanera, it's on the ground floor of a semi-circular apartment block on your right, beside restaurant El Alboro. Laundry facilities, microwaves. Tel 941 700 832 Private Hostel (30, 12, March to September) Albergue Check in Rioja on Calle Los Baos, after crossing the bridge walk straight up Calle del Puente and you'll come to it after about 200m. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Tel 941 272 329 Private Hostel (92, 10) Hostel Entresueos on Calle Portales, in the city centre and signposted from the Camino. Laundry facilities, kitchen with microwaves. Tel 941 271 334 Private hostel (48, 10) Albergue Logroo, on Calle General Gallarza, which intersects with Calle Portales. Kitchen with microwaves. Newly opened in 2013. Youth hostel (92, 10) Albergue Juvenil de Logroo on Calle Caballero de la Rosa, a bit out of the way. Logroo has a population of 153,000 and is the capital of La Rioja Autonomous Community. It is a prosperous and lively university city, unspoiled by mass tourism, and the third biggest city on the Camino Francs. The main Tourist Information office is on the Camino. Besides dispensing information they can also organise 'educational' visits to local vineyards. The public library (La Gota de Leche) is across the square from the Tourist Information office. They have free internet access (and possibly also printing). Supermarkets and fruit and veg market on the Camino on the way out of town. Each year on 11 June the city celebrates the festival of San

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Bernab, when, to commemorate the resistance of the cityagainst an invading French army in 1521, fried fish, wine and bread are distributed by the Cofrada del Pez / Brotherhood of the Fish, symbolising the food that the people ate during the siege. The week before 21 September is the festival of San Mateo or Fiestas de la Vendimia (Harvest Festival), to celebrate the grape harvest. The main events are the crushing of the grapes and the offering of the first must to the Virgin of Valvanera. Followed inevitably by the usual chasing, and being chased by, livestock. Every year on the last Saturday of April there is a nocturnal walk of 63km, called La Valvanerada, to the Monastery of Valvanera. It has been organised annually since 1976 by the local Blood Donors Association. 12km / 3 hrs to NavarretePrivate hostel (20, 8, April to October) La Casa del Peregrino. On Calle Las Huertas, to the right up steps shortly after entering the village. Kitchen. Tel 630 982 928 Riojan Friends of the Camino hostel (40, 7, March to October) Albergue de peregrinos de Navarrete follow the Camino through town and it's on your right under the arches. Kitchen. Private hostel (10, 9) Albergue Buen Camino on Calle laCruz, just past the Riojan Friends hostel on the left. New in 2014. Tel 681 252 222 Private hostel (16, 10) El Cntaro follow the Camino until you see it in a side street on your left, Calle Herreras. Kitchen with microwaves, laundry facilities. They also rent private rooms. Tel 941 441 180 Private hostel (38, 9) Albergue Pilgrim's on Calle Abada, on the main road after the municipal hostel. Laundry facilities. They have a restaurant. New in 2013. Private hostel (27, 15) A la Sombra del Laurel on the Camino about 400m after the town. Laundry facilities. Also private rooms. New in 2014. Tel 639 861 110Shops, bakery, banks on or near the Camino. Several restaurants do Pilgrim Menus. Sots is about 1km / hr off the Camino.Private hostel (8, 10, April to October) Albergue San Martn, on Calle San Miguel, in Sots. Kitchen. Phone to confirm they're open 650 962 625A sign-posted alternative route allows you to by-pass Ventosa.

8km / 2 hrs to VentosaPrivate hostel (40, 10) San Saturnino. Friendly, recently renovated, hostel with kitchen and laundry facilities. Reported very welcoming. They have a very well stocked shop and encourage pilgrims to cook and dine together. Tel 941 441 899Mesn San Antn does a Pilgrim Menu. There's also a caf, a shop and a bakery. Fiestas Virgen Blanca first weekend in July.

9km / 2 hrs to NjeraPrivate hostel (32, 10) Albergue Puerta de Njera on Calle Ribera del Najerilla, on the riverbank on the right after crossing the bridge. Laundry facilities, microwaves. Tel 941 362 317 Private Hostel (16, 8, Easter to November) Albergue Calle Mayor on Calle Dicarn, which is straight ahead after crossing the bridge, rather than left for Calle Mayor. Tel 941 360 407 Municipal Hostel (90, donativo) Albergue de Peregrinos de Njera on Plaza de Santiago. Cross either bridge and turn left until you see it on your right. Kitchen. 90 beds in one cramped dorm. Private Hostel (10, 8, Easter to October) Albergue de Peregrinos La Judera after the bridge turn left on to CalleMayor, continue on this until it becomes Calle San Marcial and it's on the right. The hostel has a caf and restaurant, a few minutes walk away, which does a pilgrimmenu and breakfast. Private Hostel (44, 8) Albergue Alberone on Calle San Marcial, after the bridge, down Calle Mayor and keep going straight. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Good reports. Tel 674 246 826 Private hostel (20, 10, April to September) Albergue Nido de Cigea on Calleja Cuarta San Miguel, a little hidden away in the old part of town. Signposted from the Camino. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Opened in 2014. Run by Russian pilgrims. Tel 640 072 753Njera is a big town with all facilities. A couple of big supermarkets on the Camino on the way down the hill intotown. Open-air market every Thursday. Fiestas San Juan y San Pedro 24-29 June, San Juan Mrtir y Santa Maria la Real 16-19 September with bulls and paella competitions.6km / 1 hrs to AzofraMunicipal hostel (60, 7) Albergue Municipal on a street to the right just past the square. Superb, purpose-designed building with kitchen, laundry facilities, two beds per room. From the point-of-view of sheer luxury this is one of the best hostels on the whole Camino. Less salubrious overflow accommodation around the corner, which is usedas the main hostel during off-peak times (November to around Easter). Parish Hostel (16, 3) Albergue Parroquial beside the church on Calle del Sol, which branches to the left as you're entering the village.There are two restaurants on the main street that do Pilgrim Menus. There are also two expensive shops. The village also boasts botanical gardens. Fiestas La Magdalena 22 July, St james 25 July with pilgrimage to Valvanera, The Virgin Mary 15 August, harvest thanksgiving first half of September.9km / 2 hrs to CirueaPrivate hostel (16, 10) Albergue Victoria on the left about 300m from the Camino, signposted. Laundry

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facilities. New in 2014. Tel 941 426 105 Private hostel (14, 7, April to September) La Virgen deGuadalupe signposted from the Camino. Mixed reports. Tel 638 924 069Golf club and caf in the new development. In the old village (500m after the golf club) is a caf which does nicesnacks, it's about 200m off the Camino to the left. Signposted.7km / 1 hrs to Santo Domingo de la CalzadaConvent hostel (33, 5, May to October) Albergue del Abada Cisterciense Nuestra Siora de la Anunciacin. Run by Cistercian nuns on your left on Calle Mayor. Kitchen with microwaves. They also do an evening meal and breakfast. Religious Hostel (160, 7) Casa del Santo on your right further up Calle Mayor. Two kitchens. Newly renovated in2009 with excellent facilities but slightly cramped dorms. When all hostels are full they allow pilgrims sleep in the old albergue.This is a big town with all basic services. Laundromat on Calle Mayor. Da supermarket on the left entering the town. Fiestas Patronales 12 May.Extreme care is necessary when crossing the main roads in Santo Domingo.7km / 1 hrs to GranParish hostel (40, donativo) Hospital de peregrinos San Juan Bautista. In a room adjoining the church. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Sleeping on exercise mats on the floor. Run by volunteers with help from pilgrims. A unique hostel with a great atmosphere in a historic annex adjoining the church. Church service before and after meal. Private Hostel (14, donativo) La Casa De Las Sonrisas on Calle Mayor, just past the church. A communal evening meal and breakfast. Bar Sindicato opposite the church does good-value meals and is a nice place to while away a hot (or cold) afternoon. Shop and bakery which opens early on Calle Mayor beside the church. The local cafs can stamp Credenciales. Fiestas, this is a village that likes to party! On 1 May there's a procession of the Virgin of Carrasquedo from her winter to her summer quarters accompanied by bagpipes and dancing. The following Sunday she gets another outing for the Blessing of the Fields. 24 and 25 June the feast of San Juan is celebrated with bonfires and a procession. During August there are various (demure) celebrations of the victory of Martn Garca against the neighbours (see below). The last week in August, during the Fiesta de Gracias, the Virgin retires to her winter quarters and Patatas a lo Gran, (a local dish with fried potatoes, vegetables, chilli, chorizo and wine) and Garlic soup, another local speciality, are eaten.There is also a theatrical re-enactment of important scenes from local history.

Entering Castilla y Len. Difficult-to-missinformation board marks the spot.

4km / 1 hr to Redecilla del CaminoMunicipal hostel (46, 5) San Lzaro. Opposite the church. Kitchen and laundry facilities and a caf.Tourist Information at the start of the village. Cafs, shop.2km / hr to Castildelgado, caf in the main road which does "artisan" chocolate. You can avoid the climb to Viloria de la Rioja by walking along the very busy main road.

4km / 1 hr to Viloria de la RiojaPrivate hostel (16, 5, February to December) AlbergueParada Viloria on the Camino. Laundry facilities, kitchen.New in 2014. Tel 639 451 660 Private hostel (12, 5, March to October) Acacio & Orietta on Calle Nueva. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Run by a very welcoming Brazilian couple. Tel 947 585 220 Drinking fountain (and possibly ice cream) in the main square.3km / hr to Vilamayor del RoPrivate hostel (28, 5, Easter to October) San Luis de Francia. 200m to the right of the Camino at the start of the village. Laundry facilities. Evening meals for 8 (prepared using home-grown vegetables) and breakfast. Good reports. Tel 947 580 5665km / 1 hrs to BeloradoPrivate hostel (100, 5, March to October) A Santiago. To the right of the Camino before entering the town. Restaurant, laundry facilities, swimming pool. Tel 947 562164 Municipal hostel (40, 8) El Corro. Just to the left of the Camino on Calle Mayor. Kitchen and laundry facilities. Under new management since 2014. Parish hostel (25, donativo) Refugio Parroquial de Belorado. Kitchen. Run by Swiss volunteers. In a converted theatre. Cool. Private hostel (62, 6, February to November) Cuatro Cantones. On Calle Hiplito Lpez Bernal on the Camino in the centre of town. Kitchen, laundry facilities, swimming pool, snoring room. They have a restaurant which specialises in barbecued chicken. Tel 947 580 591 Private hostel (22, 5, March to October) Caminante. On Calle Mayor. Kitchen and laundry facilities. Tel 947 580 231 Private hostel (6, 24 / 40 for two people) Casa Waslala on Calle Mayor. Private rooms. They also do evening meals and breakfast. Laundry facilities, free WiFi.They organise tours to the monasteries of San Milln de laCogolla and Santo Domingo de Silos. Tel: 647 102 254Restaurants with Pilgrim Menus, supermarket, Tourist Information, cafs and banks on Plaza Mayor in front of the church. Pharmacy. Caf Bulevar does good tapas. Fiestas San Vitores 26 August.

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5km / 1 hrs to TosantosParish hostel (30, donativo, April to October) Albergue del Camino de Santiago en Tosantos. Sleeping mats on thefloor. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Very welcoming. They organise a thoughtful ceremony for pilgrims in the evening where everybody reads a note left by an earlier pilgrim explaining why they were walking the Camino. Can be a real eye-opener.Behind the hostel on the other side of the main road there is a caf El Castao which does snacks and also sells basic groceries (closed Mondays).2 km / hr to VillambistiaPrivate hostel (14, 6) Albergue San Roque. On Plaza Mayor. Kitchen, laundry facilities. They have a caf / restaurant. Tel 649 497 143Caf. Fiestas San Roque 14-15 August.2km / hr to Espinosa del CaminoPrivate hostel (10, 12 with evening meal and breakfast, February to November) La Campana. Just to the left of the Camino. The owner has a reputation for being a bit grumpy. Private Hostel (9, 5, March to November) Camino de la Esperanza on Calle Barruelo. Kitchen. They also do breakfast. Opened in 2013.3km / hr to Villafranca Montes de OcaMunicipal hostel (38, 5) Albergue de Villafranca Montes de Oca. On the left on the treacherous main road. Kitchen. Private Hostel (18, 5, March to October) Albergue SanAnton Abad, new hostel on the Camino on the way out of the village, in the same building as a hotel. Microwaves. Caf / restaurant. Reported good. Tel 947 582 149Caf, shop (which in winter only opens for about an hour in the evenings), pharmacy and bakery. The restaurant of the caf El Pjaro, does an evening meal which is hit-and-miss (being polite here). El Pjaro is a favourite stop for the truck-driving confraternity, however, they seem to limittheir consumption to Cognac and coffee.The Montes de Oca consist of a series of small but steep ascents and descents.

12km / 3 hrs to San Juan de OrtegaMonestary hostel (58, 5) Albergue del Monasterio. On your right just after passing the church in part of the original monastery. Basic facilities and run-down.A caf beside the hostel does food from about midday. Besides the caf there are no other facilities. There's a blessing for pilgrims in the church in the evenings. Fiesta 2 June, when there are pilgrimages from the surrounding villages to the monastery accompanied by merrymaking.There are two routes from here to Burgos. The alternative one is waymarked but little-used and devoid of pilgrim accommodation. It passes through the following villages: Santovenia de Oca, Zalduendo, Ibeas de Juarros, Castrillo del

Val, San Medel, Castaares and then to Burgos. Parts of it are along the side of amain road.

4km / 1 hr to AgsPrivate hostel (16, 10) San Rafael on the left at the start of the village. Good reports. Tel 947 430 392 Private Hostel (38, 9, March to October) El Pajar de Ags. On Calle Paralelo Del Medio. Kitchen with microwaves and laundry facilities. Tel 699 273 856 Municipal Hostel (36, 8) On the same steet as El Pajar. It also has a caf and restaurant. Modern, comfortable, family run. Tel 947 400 697 Private Hostel (9, donativo) Casa Caracol. On Calle La Iglesia. Sleeping on mattresses. Breakfast. A very special hostel, one of the gems of the Camino. The caf and restaurant of the municipal hostel is open to everybody and does good food. It opens about 07:00. There's a small shop in the caf at the bottom of the main street. The tour bus to the archaeological digs also picks up in Ags (see under Atapuerca), ask in the caf of the Municipal Hostel for information.3km / hr to AtapuercaMunicipal hostel (36, 8, March to October) El Peregrino. On your right as you enter the village. Nice rooms with six beds. Kitchen. They also have double rooms. Private Hostel (24, 5) La Hutte. Up the road to the right directly after Municipal hostel. The restaurant in this hostel does a pilgrim menu.There is a caf and bakery on the main square which is usually open for breakfast and another caf and a bakery on the way out of the village.6km / 1 hrs to Cardeuela Ro PicoPrivate hostel (26, 8, March to October) Albergue Va Minera. To the right just before the village. Laundry facilities. Evening meal, breakfast. Municipal hostel (12, 5). On Calle Santa Eulalia. Basic hostel. If it's locked as in Bar La Parada. Private hostel (14, 10) Albergue Santa Fe on the Camino. Laundry facilities and a restaurant. New in 2013. Good reports.Two cafs which sometimes do food.2km / hr Orbaneja Riopico, friendly caf which does food on the right.There are several options when entering Burgos. About 1km / hr after Orbaneja andshortly after crossing over a motorway, youcan go right and enter an industrial zone in Villafra (cafs), from where you can follow the yellow arrows or get a bus into the city. This route passes through industrial zones for a couple of hours withlittle shade or refreshment. Alternatively,you can go left, walking past the airport to a village called Castaares (cafs) and a major road which you can cross at the pedestrian crossing to your left. Continue

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straight through a small park with a children's playground to your left and a basketball court on your right, straight along a small road which crosses a stream and swings right at the entrance to a factory. Continue until you cross a footbridge over a river. Now turn right andfollow the path between the river and a busy road turning left to pass under the road. Now you can follow the river for a pleasant, shady walk all the way to the city. This route passes through a little-frequented nature reserve and some people may feel uncomfortable on their own.You'll pass a beach where you can swim.

13km / 3 hrs to BurgosReligious hostel (16, 5, Easter to October) Casa de Peregrinos Emas. On Calle de San Pedro de Cardea. Depending which route you followed into Burgos either cross the bridge to the south bank of the river at Paseo del Rey or, if you're following the river, turn left on to Avenida de Castilla, then left on to Calle de San Pedro de Cardea. Evening meal and breakfast for a donation. Religious hostel (18, 5, March to November) Albergue de Santiago y Santa Catalina - Divina Pastora. On Calle Lan Calvo, left from the Camino shortly before the municipal hostel, on a small square very near Plaza Mayor. Laundry facilities. Municipal Hostel (130, 5) Albergue Municipal de Burgos on Calle Fernn Gonzlez, signposted from the official' Camino into town. Up the hill from the cathedral on the opposite (north) side to the main entrance. Kitchen with microwaves, laundry facilities. Large, impersonal, modern mega-hostel.There are numerous restaurants on and near the square opposite the cathedral, however, for cheaper (less touristy) options try the streets off Plaza Mayor. On Plaza Mayor itself is the Casino Restaurant which does good and cheap food (including salads). Tourist Information down a narrow alley to the right of the decorative Arcos de Santa Mara diagonally across the cathedral entrance. The main post office is on the south bank across Puente de San Pablo. Fiestas San Lesmes 25 January, Fiesta del Curpillos 10 June, San Pedro y San Pablo 29 June.Finding your way out of Burgos can be a bitcomplicated. from the municipal hostel turn right and continue straight along Calle Fernn de Gonzlez past the cathedral for about 800m until you come to the city wall. Pass through the arch and turn left down the steps and straight on to Calle Emperador, as far as Calle Villalon, where you turn left. This will bring you to the river which you will cross on the footbridge (Puente Malotos) straight in front of you. After the footbridge you'll see a statue of

Santo Domingo and the entrance to a park atthe corner of Paseo de los Comendadores. Veer right on to Avenida de Jos Maria Vilacin Rebollo and then straight on to Calle de Villadiego, veering right on to Calle de Benito Prez Galds (sign pointingto Los Guindales). From there follow the arrows.

9km / 2 hrs to TardajosPrivate hostel (32, 12) Albergue La Fbrica on the left at the start of the village. Laundry facilities. New in 2014. As its name suggests, in a renovated factory. Tel 646 000 908 Municipal hostel (18, donativo, April to October). To your left after the Camino turns left off the main road. It may open outside those times too, ask in the Ayuntamiento.Shop and bakery on the main square. The Pilgrim Menu Restaurant Pececitos is good, while Bar Ruiz, does good tapas (including the unforgettable 'Bikini'). 2km / hr to Rab de las CalzadasPrivate hostel (8, 8, April to September) Albergue Santa Marina new hostel on the left of the Camino beside the church. They do an evening meal. Mixed reports. Private Hostel (24, 8) Albergue Liberanos Domine. Laundry facilities. Newly renovated. Evening meal and breakfast. Good reports. Tel 695 116 901Two cafs which do food near the Camino. 8km / 2 hrs to Hornillos del CaminoPrivate hostel (20, 9, April to October) El Alfar de Hornillos on the left on the Camino. Laundry facilities. Tel 619 235 930 Private hostel (32, 8, March to October) Meeting Point on the right. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Breakfast 3. New in 2014. Tel 608 113 599 Municipal hostel (50, 5, March to January). To the right of the Camino near the church. Kitchen. Cramped dorms. Overflow accommodation in the townhall.The shop on your left as you enter the village does sandwiches and cold drinks. There's a caf a little further up opposite the church which does snacks and meals. The village church is nice.5km / 1 hrs to San BolMunicipal hostel (12, 5, April to September) Albergue de San Bol. To the left of the Camino in a beautiful and isolated valley in the Meseta. Recently renovated and nowequipped with electricity (sometimes from a generator), hot water, showers, toilet, etc. Evening meal provided. Previously run by volunteer hippies and renowned as a party hostel of ill-repute. You could bring your grandmother to the new San Bol without any fear of scandalising her.In 2014 San Bol has a caf which is open all day.5km / 1 hrs to HontanasPrivate hostel (60, 5, March to October) El Puntido.

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On the right opposite the church on Calle La Iglesia. They have a caf downstairs which does a pilgrim menu. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Tel 947 378 597 Municipal Hostel (55, 5) Albergue de Hontanas Further down on Calle Real, also on the right. Run by women from the village on a rota. Kitchen. In a nice, recently renovated building. They have more beds in another building when this is full. Private Hostel (14, 7, April to September) Albergue Santa Brgida, also on Calle Real. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Reported clean, beautiful and friendly. They do anevening meal which also receives excellent reports. Tel 609 164 697There are several cafs and at least one other restaurant which does a Pilgrim Menu. Fiestas 6 to 8 December and the night of 15 August for the Hoguera de San Roque / Bonfire of San Roque, when the young people of the village collect firewood and have a procession with songs and wine before having a big bonfire into which they throw sticks to ask the saint to protect their animals.For several kilometres after Hontanas the Camino runs parallel to a quite country road. In bad weather walking the road is byfar the better option.

6km / 1 hrs to San AntnReligious hostel (12, donativo, May to September) San Antn. In the ruins of an old monastery. Recently extensively renovated. Communal evening meal by candle-light.3km / hr to CastrojerizPrivate hostel (40, 6, April to October) Camino de Santiago. In the camping site to your left. Laundry facilities. They have a caf and restaurant which does a pilgrim menu. Private hostel (34, 9, April to October) Albergue Ultreia on the right on the Camino. In a nicely renovated old building. Laundry facilities. They do an evening meal. New in 2014. Tel 947 378 640Private Hostel (26, 5 with breakfast, February to November) Casa Nostra. On Calle Real de Oriente. On the Camino. Kitchen and laundry facilities. Basic. Tel 947 377 493 Municipal hostel (30, 5) San Esteban. Follow the Camino to the Plaza Mayor, the hostel is up steps to the right. Bright, airy, pleasant atmosphere. Donativo breakfast. Municipal hostel (28, donativo with breakfast, April to October) San Juan. On Calle del Cordn. Basic facilities. Cramped dorms.Shop, bakery and bank around Plaza Mayor. Fiestas Around the feast day of St John the Baptist 24 June with several days and nights of music, dancing, processions, etc. El Ajo during July weekends, festival themed around the garlic harvest. Early September El Sejo with more dancing, music, processions, etc. Note that no cafs open

early so maybe best to avail of the breakfast offered by your hostel.The village of Itero del Castillo is by-passed by the Camino about 15:00m to the right of the Camino.

10km / 2 hrs to Itero del CastilloReligious hostel (12, donativo, summer only) Ermita de San Nicols. In an isolated spot to the left of the Camino just before the bridge leading to Itero de la Vega. Run by volunteers from an Italian organisation who practise a ritual washing of feet for pilgrims. The building is a very old pilgrim hostel which has been restored. Evening meal (by candlelight because there's no electricity) and breakfast provided. Welcoming to all pilgrims regardless of their background.A caf in Itero del Castillo does food.Entering Province of Palencia

1km / hr to Itero de la VegaPrivate hostel (7, 6) Fitero. Guesthouse and restaurant atthe beginning of the village. Has limited dorm accommodation. They do a pilgrim menu. Tel 979 151 822 Private hostel (8, 12) Hogar del Peregrino on Calle Santa Mara, which is straight on where the Camino turns left. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Tel 979 151 866 Municipal hostel (12, 5) Albergue Municipal de Itero. On Plaza de la Iglesia, beside the church. Easy to miss, look for a door with a sign saying Refugio. Kitchen. Private Hostel (25, 6) La Mochila on Calle Santa Ana. Follow the sign to the left in the village. Laundry facilities. They also do meals. Tel 979 151 781There are several shops around the village and one well-stocked supermarket. Few pilgrims stop here but it's actually quite pleasant. During August Itero is the unlikelylocation of a music festival called IteroRock or Tachurock (iterorock.com) which brings together long-haired, motorcycle-riding, guitar-smashing degenerates from all over Spain for a day or two of drug-fuelled chaos. Profits from the festival go to children's charities in Angola and Chiapas.8km / 2 hrs to Boadilla del CaminoPrivate hostel (12, 8) Putzu. On your left just before entering the village. Caf, laundry facilities. The owner is in the habit of interrogating pilgrims before deciding if they can stay and even on occasion deciding by flipping a coin. Municipal hostel (8, 4) beside a caf to the left of the Camino. Basic facilities. Ask in the caf for the keys. Irregular opening. Private hostel (48, 7, March to October) En El Camino. Near the church. Nice garden, very small swimming pool, restaurant and laundry facilities. They do breakfast and an evening meal. Good. Tel 979 810 284 Private hostel (12, 10) Albergue Titas on Calle Major, on the Camino on the left. Modern facilities. Laundry

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facilities. They do evening meals and breakfast. Newly opened in 2013, however, some negative reports about the quality of the welcome. Tel 979 810 776Cafs.6km / 1 hrs to FrmistaPrivate hostel (40, 7 or 15 with evening meal and breakfast, April to October) Albergue Canal de Castilla,on Calle La Estacin. At the start of the town, beside the railway station. After passing under the railway tracks follow the signs. Laundry facilities. They also do an evening meal and breakfast. Tel 979 810 193 Municipal Hostel (56, 8, February to Christmas) Albergue de Frmista, near the church of San Martn. Laundry facilities. Basic and a bit run-down. Private hostel (34, 7, March to October) Estrella del Camino on Avenida del Ejrcito Espaol beside Hostal Camino de Santiago. Laundry facilities. Brand new hostel - good early reports. If it's closed ask in the hostal next door for the key. Tel 979 810 053 Private hostel (5, donativo, only open in winter when allother hostels are closed) Albergue Betania also on Avenida del Ejrcito Espaol. Tel 638 846 043There is a small supermarket on a street off the square beside the church of San Martn de Tours. There is also a bakery and a bank. There is a railway station with trains north to Santander and south Palancia, from where there are connections to Madrid and Len, etc.Just before Poblacin on the left is the Romanesque Ermita de San Miguel with a niceshady wooded area.

4km / 1 hr to Poblacin de CamposMunicipal hostel (22, 4). On your left as you enter the village. Kitchen. If it's not open ask for the key at the caf Los Cigeos at the other end of the village. This caf alsodoes a pilgrim menu.There are two cafs one of which is also a small shop. There is a new guesthouse with a restaurant beside the hostel, owners are reported to be friendly. Rooms for 20, free internet.After Poblacin, just before crossing a small bridge, the Camino divides to rejoin in Villalczar de Sirga.

Right route 10km / 2 hrs This route follows the ro Ucieza and is a quieter and more pleasant option than the left route. It passes through the village of Villovieco (where there's a caf). Then crosses the river and continues along its bank for a few kilometres until you come toa bridge and a large house where you turn left and follow the paved road to Villalczar.

Left route 10km / 2 hrs This route goes along the side of a road.

6km / 1 hrs to Villarmentero de CamposPrivate hostel (24, 6, March to October) Albergue

Amanecer. On the right at the start of the village. Caf which does meals. They also have teepees where you can sleep in a hammock. Tel 662 279 102Caf in the hostel. Fiestas 11 November San Martn de Tours.4km / 1 hr to Villalczar de Sirga

Right and left routes rejoin in Villalczar de SirgaMunicipal hostel (20, donativo, April to October) on Plaza del Peregrino. Between the main road and the church. Kitchen. 1 for a hot shower. Staffed by volunteers. Private Hostel (26, 7) Albergue Tasca Don Camino, on Calle Real, on the way out of the village. Kitchen, laundryfacilities. Tel 979 888 163There's a shop and a bakery. The restaurant Mesn de Villasirga does good food.6km / 1 hrs to Carrin de los CondesConvent hostel (32, 5, March to November) Convento de Santa Clara. In a magnificent old building on your left entering the town. Convent hostel (70, 5) Albergue Espritu Santo. On Calle San Juan. Turn left where the Camino crosses the main road. Nice patio. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Dorm described by one correspondent as "grandmotherly". Parish hostel (60, 5, March to October) Parroquia de Santa Mara. Turn right after the church and the hostel is down Calle del Clrigo Pastor in front of you. Run by a community of Benedictine nuns who go out of their way to welcome pilgrims. Kitchen, laundry facilities.The town has all basic facilities. There's an information stand where the Camino crosses the main road The caf opposite opens for breakfast. Cafetera Los Condes on Plaza Mayor does good, if a little expensive, platos combinados. In summer you can swim in the river.You should not leave Carrin without enoughfood and water for a long walk.

17km / 4 hrs to Calzadilla de la CuezaPrivate hostel (80, 7) Albergue de Peregrinos de Calzadilla/Camino Real. On your left entering the village. Laundry facilities, small swimming pool. Big, cramped dorms. The hospitaleros are very helpful, especially to young female pilgrims. Tel 979 883 187 Municipal hostel (32, 5) Albergue Municipal on Calle Mayor, on the Camino. Laundry facilities, kitchen. New in2014. The local caf does decent food (with vegetarian options) and opens for breakfast. Same proprietor as the hostel. A mobile shop visits during the afternoon.6km / 1 hrs to LdigosPrivate hostel (52, 6, February to November) El Palomar. On Calle Ronda de Abajo. Kitchen, laundry facilities, pool. They also have a caf and do meals. Tel 979 883 614Caf and small shop in hostel El Palomar.

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3km / hr to Terradillos de TemplariosPrivate hostel (52, 7, April to October) Los Templarios.On your left before the village. Laundry facilities. Snacks, evening meal. Tel 667 252 279 Private Hostel (55, 8, February to November) Jaques de Molay. On you right as you walk through the village. Swimming pool in summer, laundry facilities, restaurant that does evening meal and breakfast. Tel 979 883 679Caf and restaurant in hostel Jaques de Molay.An alternative route follows the main road straight to Sahagn.

4km / 1 hr to MoratinosPrivate hostel (18, 8, February to October) San Bruno.On the Camino as it passes through the village. Laundry facilities. Run by an Italian association of friend of the Camino. They have a caf which does traditional Italian food. Mixed reports. Tel 979 061 465Caf.2km / hr to San Nicols del Real CaminoPrivate hostel (22, 8, April to October) Alberguera Laganares. On your left as you walk through the village, just after the church. They do snacks and a Pilgrim Menu in their restaurant and (sometimes) breakfast. Laundry facilities. A warm welcome in a beautifully renovated building. The dorms are small and because few pilgrims stop here you'll often have a dorm to yourself. Tel 979 188142Entering the Province of Len

7km / 1 hrs to SahagnPrivate hostel (80, 6, March to October) Viatoris. Just before the railway bridge on Travesa del Arco (signposted). Microwaves, laundry facilities. In a grandly renovated building with good facilities, huge stone lions and other statues. Their restaurant is reputed to do good food. Tel 987 780 975 Municipal Hostel (60, 5) Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Cluny. On your right just after crossing the railway bridge in a converted church. Kitchen, laundry facilities. (An over-flow municipal hostel is also available with 20 beds and a kitchen. No heating.) Convent hostel (12, 8, April to October) Albergue de las Madres Benedictinas. Follow the Camino through the town and it's on the right.Several restaurants around town do Pilgrim Menus. Restaurante Medieval San Facundo is very good,it's part of Hostal Codorniz, which is across the street from the municipal hostel. There are shops and a bakery (pastelera) which opens at 06:00, on the Camino. Supermarket on Calle de la Alhndiga. An interpretive centre for the Camino called El Centro de Documentacin del Camino de Santiago opened in 2010 in the magnificently restored Iglesia de la Peregrina, with a library, exhibitions and art related to the history of the

Camino. It's on a hill a little outside the town.The Camino de Madrid joins the Camino Francs in Sahagn.4km / 1 hr after Sahagn, just before Calzada del Coto, the Camino divides and continues on two separate paths until Reliegos.

Right route 31km / 7 hrs 500m to...

5km / 1 hrs to Calzada del CotoMunicipal hostel (24, donativo) Albergue San Roque. Onthe right at the beginning of the village. Volunteer hospitaleros in summer, otherwise ask for the key in caf Xanadu. Basic but functional.There is a shop (limited opening times) on your right as you walk through the village and a couple of cafs.8km / 2 hrs to Calzadilla de los HermanillosPrivate hostel (20, 15, April to October) Albergue Va Trajana. Evening meal and breakfast. Laundry facilities. Tel 987 337 610 Municipal Hostel (22, donativo) Albergue De San Bartolom. On your left as you walk through the village. In summer it's run by volunteers, however in winter you'll need to ask around for the key. Kitchen.There is a shop in one of the side streets near the main square. There are two restaurants of which La Casa del Cura does a good evening meal.18km / 4 hrs to Reliegos or 24km / 6 hrs to Mansilla via an alternative route. Don'tset off without adequate supplies for a long day's walking. There is no possibilityto stock up on the way. The route runs entirely through open countryside parallel to the Len Madrid railway line. It is possible to cross over to the left route inseveral places. Do not cross the railway line unless you want to join the other route.

Left route 31km / 7 hrs Many parts of this route are gravel path along the side of a quiet road.

10km / 2 hrs to Bercianos del Real CaminoParochial hostel (45, donative, April to October) Albergue Parroquial de Bercianos. Leaving the village on the left. Kitchen. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Entertainment provided by the pilgrims (which you will either love or hate). Possibly also treatment for injuries. Excellent reports. Private Hostel (19, 10 with breakfast) Albergue Santa Clara on Calle la Iglesia. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Good reports, especially about the breakfast.Caf.

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8km / 2 hrs to El Burgo RaneroPrivate hostel (30, 10, Easter to October) El Nogal. Onyour left. Tel 627 229 331 Private hostel (28, donativo) Albergue Domenico Laffi. On your right a little after El Nogal. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Run by volunteers. Tel 987 317 801 Private Hostel (25, 8, March to November) La Laguna.To the right just after the other two hostels. Kitchen, laundry facilities, garden. Private Hostel (12, 10, April to September) Albergue Ebalo Tama. About 1km / hr north of El Burgo Ranero, also accessible from the right route, near a huge grain silo. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Good reports.Veer right for hostels, etc. There are two cafs / restaurants on the same street as the hostels which do Pilgrim Menus and open for breakfast. The restaurant of Piedras Blancas is good. There's also a small shop and a pharmacy.13km / 3 hrs to Reliegos.

Right and left routes rejoin in... ReliegosPrivate hostel (10, 9) Albergue Piedras Blancas II on the left a little before the village. An extension of Piedras Blancas I in El Burgo Ranero. Caf and restaurant. Tel 607163 982 Municipal hostel (100, 5). On Calle La Escuela. Good, modern facilities. Kitchen. Private Hostel (40, 7) Albergue La Parada also on Callela Escuela. Laundry facilities, kitchen with microwaves. Tel 987 317 880There are cafs on the main square. Bar Elvis does good food (despite its overblown advertising). Bar Gil does OK food but their Pilgrim Menu isn't great.6km / 1 hrs to Mansilla de las MulasPrivate hostel (32, 10, January to October) Albergue El Jardn del Camino. In a modern building, behind a wallon the right near the beginning of the town on the approach from Reliegos. Laundry facilities. Their caf does food. Tel 987 310 232 Municipal Hostel (70, 5, January to November). On your left as you walk down Calle del Puente in the centre. Laundry facilities, kitchen.Several restaurants on Calle del Puente do Pilgrim Menus. Restaurante Casa Marcelo, towards the bridge on the left, is simple but good. A caf/bakery, Confiteria Alonso, on Plaza del Pozo at the top of this street beside the Ayuntamiento opens for breakfast. Also around this square are banks and shops. Fiestas around 25 July, medieval festival with a market, jousting and witch burning. Second last Sunday in August, tomato festival, in honour of Mansilla's famous variety of tomato, with a cookery competition followed by the "Tomatina" when the young people of the town pelt each other (and any passingpilgrims) with tomatoes - although it is not quite on the scale of the more famous Tomatina in Valencia. Second

Sunday in September, Virgen de Gracia, with a Romeria / Pilgrimage. 11 November, festival of San Martn, this is the town's oldest festival and includes a livestock mart, a market, procession of agricultural machinery and local specialities in the restaurants.It's no longer necessary to cross the road bridge over the river Porma before Puente de Villarente, the long-awaited footbridge is now in operation.

6km / 1 hrs to Puente de VillarentePrivate hostel (24, 5, March to October) El Delfin Verde. Cross the bridge and it's on the right. Laundry facilities (their kitchen had an accident). They have a restaurant which does a pilgrim menu and breakfast. Tel 987 312 065 Private Hostel (64, 10, October to March) Albergue San Pelayo. On Calle El Romero, after crossing the bridgetake the second street on the right then the first left and walk about 100m. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Restaurant which does a pilgrim menu. Fairly new hostel, good early reports. Some pilgrims report they insist you can only stayif you eat in their restaurant. Tel 650 918 281Cafs.4km / 1 hr to ArcahuejaPrivate hostel (18, 8 or 18 with dinner, March to Christmas) La Torre. A little to the left of the Camino near the church. They have a caf downstairs which does good food with locally produced cider. Laundry facilities. Tel 987 205 896Caf.Some effort has been made recently to make the entry to Len safer so please follow the signs carefully.On the way into the city there's an information kiosk for pilgrims. They have handy city maps.

8km / 2 hrs to LenPrivate hostel (60, 8, February to November) Santo Toms de Canterbury on Avenida de la Lastra, which is left when descending the hill after the second bridge over the motorway. Laundry facilities, kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 987 392 626 Private hostel (160, 10, July to September) Albergue Ademar / San Francisco de Ass on Avenida Alcalde Miguel Castaos, which is just to the left of the Camino on the way into the city, past Plaza Santa Ana. In a students' halls of residence. Free laundry facilities. Midnight curfew. Tel 987 215 060 Convent hostel (180, 7 with breakfast) Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas. In the centre of the city on Plaza Santa Maria. Just to the right of the Camino. 21:00 curfew. The Benedictines, as always, put on a good show. Private hostel (80, 10, March to October) Albergue Muralla Leonesa on Calle Tarifa, from Las Benedictinas continue straight and turn right into Calle los Castaones.

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Laundry facilities, kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 987 177 873 Private hostel (20, 16) Como en Casa on Calle Legin VII, to the left of the Camino where it turns right on to Calle Ancha. Laundry facilities, kitchen. New in 2014. Tel 685 508 958 Private hostel (20, 12) Albergue Leon Hostel on Calle Ancha on the Camino just before the cathedral. Kitchen. Bew in 2014. Tel 987 079 907 Private hostel (80, 10, July to August) Albergue Unamuno on Calle San Pelayo. Students' halls of residence. Laundry facilities, meals. No curfew. Tel 987 233 010Once in the city centre the Camino is waymarked by metalshells set into the ground. There's a Tourist Information opposite the entrance to the cathedral. Internet on Avenida Ordoo II. Mercadona and Dia supermarkets on the Camino on the way into town. Caf Orly, across the street from Albergue Ademar, opens at 06:00 and has nice pastries. If you feel a need for bread that isn't white you might like to visit Los Alemanes German bakery on Plaza Puente Castillo down Calle de Pablo Flrez from the cathedral. Fiestas the patron saints of Len are San Juan and San Pedro whose festival takes places at the end of June with street theatre and the usual mayhem, La Palomera 16 July, San Froiln 4 October with a medieval street festival with costumes, music, food, donkeys, camels, owls, everything medieval basically.The official Camino winds its crooked way around the tourist attractions of Len. Don't worry if you end up lost! The easiestway to find your way out is to find the river and walk upstream until you come to the footbridge, Puente San Marcos, which isjust beside the magnificent Hostal de San Marcos. Cross the river here and it's straight all the way out of town.Several cafs do breakfast on the way out of the city. There are also several supermarkets and bakeries (unfortunately they don't open until around 09:00). There's also an information stand which is only open in summer.

7km / 1 hrs to La Virgen del CaminoPrivate Hostel (40, 5, April to September) Albergue Don Antonio y Doa Cinia. On Calle Camino de Villacedre to the left of the main road as you pass through the village. Signposted. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Positive reports. Tel 987 302 800Several cafs on the main road do food and drink, there are shops, etc. Public toilets under souvenir shop oppositechurch.Just after the village the Camino divides and continues on separate routes until Hospital de rbigo. Cross the main road at the church and turn right. 100m further on the Camino divides. The right route runs along the side of a busy main road. The left route passes through open countryside.

There is a lot of confusing signposting at this junction. The right route follows the Roman road and is considered the original Camino.

Right route 26km / 6 hrs 5km / 1 hrs to Valverde de la VirgenPrivate hostel (20, 8 with breakfast) La Casa del Camino, on Calle El Jano, first right as you enter the village. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Friendly welcome. Tel 659 178 087A caf nearby does food. Fiestas 22 January and San Froiln 5 October.2km / hr San Miguel del Camino, cafs, restaurants

9km / 2 hrs to Villadangos del PramoMunicipal hostel (80, 5) In the old school building to the right on a bend in the main road as you enter the village. Kitchen. In cold weather they have a great open wood fire in a barrel. Tel 664 410 385, or the number on the door.Cafs, a shop, a bank, a restaurant on the main road through the village.5km / 1 hrs to San Martn del CaminoPrivate hostel (60, 7, March to October) Albergue Vieira before the village. Laundry facilities. Their restaurant does local specialities and breakfast. Good reports. Tel 987 378 565 Private Hostel (80, 6) Albergue Santa Ana on the left of the Camino. Kitchen, laundry facilities, evening meal and breakfast. Tel 987 378 653 Municipal Hostel (60, 5) Albergue de San Martn del Camino also on the main road, a little further on, on the right. Kitchen, laundry facilities, large garden. Basic and run down.The hostels in this village appear to be waging propaganda war on each other. There is a caf, a shop and a bakery.7km / 1 hrs to Hospital de rbigo

Left route 28km / 7 hrs 2km / hr Fresno del Camino, caf. Then another 8km / 2 hrs to Chozas de Abajo where there is a caf about 400m off the Camino. Then 5km / 1 hr to...

15km / 3 hrs to Villar de MazarifePrivate hostel (70, 8) Albergue San Antonio de Pdua. To your right just before the village. A new purpose-built hostel with laundry facilities, evening meal, breakfast. Recent poor reports about the quality of the food. Tel 987 390 192 Private Hostel (50, 5) Albergue de Jess. To the left as you're entering the village. Kitchen, small swimming pool (complete with Viking ship!), caf which does meals. Mattresses on the balcony overlooking the courtyard provide extra places in summer. Their bar stays open quitelate so there might be noise, especially at weekends. Tel

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987 390 697 Private Hostel (26, 9, February to December) Albergue Tio Pepe. Near the church. Bar downstairs does evening meal and breakfast. Warm welcome. Tel 987 390 517There are 2 small supermarkets, 2 cafs and a bakery.It's more-or-less straight all the way, ignore the many, many arrows pointing to the right, they're just trying to trick youinto rejoining the other route or detour through the village of Villavante (presumably so you'll spend your money in the cafs there). Villavente can be bypassed by continuing straight on the road.

9km / 2 hrs to VillavantePrivate hostel (30, 8, April to October) Albergue SantaLuca on Calle Doctor Vlez. Laundry facilities. Tel 692 107 693Caf.4km / 1 hr to Hospital de rbigo.

Right and left routes rejoin in... Hospital de rbigoParish hostel (90, 5) Albergue Parroquial Karl Leisner. After crossing the bridge continue straight on the main street, it's on your right. Kitchen. Nice patio. Private hostel (40, 7, March to November) Albergue San Miguel. Also on the main street on the left. Kitchen, laundry facilities. They allow pilgrims to paint a picture, the best of which are put on display. Evening meal reported good. Tel 987 388 285 Private Hostel (22, 9) Albergue La Encina on Avenida Suero de Quiones, opposite the swimming pool, take a right off the bridge. Caf with pilgrim menu and which opens at 07:00. Tel 987 361 087 Private Hostel (26, 9, Easter to October) Albergue Verde. A little off the Camino to the left down Avenida de los Fueros de Len. Laundry facilities, nice garden, pets, hippie vibe. Friendly and welcoming. They do a communal meal using organic produce with Vegetarian options (delicious) and breakfast - all donativo - with a musical accompaniment! Also yoga classes. Tel 689 927 926Several restaurants near the bridge (on the Camino and down side streets to the left) do a good lunchtime menu and a Pilgrim Menu in the evening. Shop and banks on the Camino.Leaving the village the Camino divides. To the right it passes through the villages ofVillares de rbigo and Santibez de Valdeiglesias. The left route follows the main road. These two paths join again before San Justo de la Vega.

Right route 13km / 3 hrs 3km / hr to Villares de rbigoPrivate Hostel (36, 7, February to

November) Albergue Villares de rbigo just to the right of the Camino in the centre of the village. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Communal evening meal and breakfast. Tel 987 132 935Shop, a caf and a pharmacy.2km / hr to Santibez de ValdeiglesiasPrivate hostel (14, 7, March to October) Albergue Camino Francs. On the left on the Camino. Laundry facilities. Caf / restaurant. New in 2014. Tel 987 361 014 Parish hostel (60, 5, March to October) Albergue de Peregrinos de Santibaez. Up a street to the right before you pass the church, beside the village caf. Communal evening meal and breakfast -donativo. Basic.Caf Centro Social beside the hostel also serves as the (limited) village shop. It's a local tradition to construct a maize maze (Laberinto de Mas, maize in North American English is corn) every summer. It's said to be the biggest in the world! It opens on 1 August.5km / 1 hrs to David's refreshment stand in a disused farm building to the right of the Camino and then 3km / hr to San Justode la Vega.

Left route 11km / 2 hrs This route is slightly shorter however it follows a busy main road for most of its course.

Right and left routes rejoin just before... San Justo de la VegaPrivate hostel (15, donativo) Pilgrim House on the right on the Camino. Communal dinner (prepared by a professional chef!) and breakfast. Opened in 2013. Positive early reports.Cafs.3km / hr to AstorgaMunicipal hostel (145, 7) Albergue de Peregrinos Siervas de Mara. On the left on Plaza San Francisco just after you struggle up the hill through the town walls. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Excellent facilities. Tel 987 616 034 Private Hostel (110, 8, April to November) San Javier on Calle Portera, near the cathedral. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Wood burning stove when it's cold and ahearty breakfast available. The noise from the wooden floor in the dorm can make sleeping difficult. Tel 987 618 532Astorga is a large towns with all facilities. Tourist Information on the square beside the cathedral. There is asupermarket on Plaza de Santocildes which is on the Camino. Also on Plaza de Santocildes there's a good outdoor shop called Huracn run by a Swiss gentleman. Fiestas Astures y Romanos 25 July with lots of dressing upand fake battles, Santa Marta 25 August.Leaving town is a bit confusing so pay close attention to the waymarkings. Following the Camino through town, at the cathedral veer left down Calle Portena and

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then right at the end. Continue straight across a road junction on to Calle de San Pedro until you arrive at the main road called Avenida Madrid-Corua, which you cross and continue on Calle de los Mrtires. Follow this and it's straight allthe way out of town.

1km / hr to ValdeviejasMunicipal hostel (12, 5, March to October) Albergue de Peregrinos Ecce Homo. When you see the little church Ecce Homo on the left, turn right and you'll see it. Pleasant small hostel with a communal area in a neighbouring building. Tel 620 960 0604km / 1 hr to Murias de RechivaldoMunicipal hostel (20, 5, March to October) Albergue de Murias de Rechivaldo. To the right of the Camino in the old school building. Individual rooms. Laundry facilities. Tel 987 615 158 Private hostel (40, 9, April to October) Albergue las guedas. On your right as you leave the village. Laundry facilities. They do an evening meal and breakfast from 06:00. Tel 636 067 840Two restaurants and two cafs.Although just off the Camino, the village of Castrillo de los Polvazares is well worth a visit. It's rightly considered the jewel among Maragato villages. From Murias,walk through the village and follow the road rather than the Camino. It's to the right of the road across a bridge between Murias and Santa Catalina, at a place wherethere's a small carpark. It has several popular restaurants and is a good place to try Cocido Maragato and other local specialities - although the restaurants, not being pilgrim establishments, keep normal hours.Municipal hostel (7, 5, April to October) Albergue Municipal de Castrillo de los Polvazares. In a stone houseon Calle el Jardn. Contact details on the door.4km / 1 hr to Santa Catalina de SomozaPrivate hostel (20, 5) Albergue El Caminante. Just to theright of the church. Laundry facilities. Also a caf which does a Pilgrim Menu and opens for breakfast. Tel 987 691 098 Private Hostel (20, 5) Albergue San Blas. On the left on the main street. Laundry facilities. They have a caf whichdoes a Pilgrim Menu and opens for breakfast. Tel 987 691 411Cafs and restaurants of which the one belonging to Albergue El Caminante is quite pleasant.4km / 1 hr to El GansoPrivate hostel (30, 8, Easter to October) Albergue Gabino. New hostel on the main road near the church, in anicely renovated building. Kitchen, laundry facilities. Tel 660 912 823Caf Bar La Barraga does good home cooking and

regional specialities. It's on the main road through the village, parallel to and to the left of the Camino.The climb to Cruz de Ferro begins here. In the next 15km you'll ascend 500m, however, the ascent is gradual.

7km / 1 hrs to Rabanal del CaminoPrivate hostel (34, 5, April to October) Albergue La Senda. On your left as you enter the village. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Tel 696 819 060 Municipal Hostel (40, 4, April to October) To the left of the Camino on a square on the main road. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Laid-back vibe, nice garden. Tel 987 631 687 Private Hostel (74, 5) Albergue Nuestra Seora del Pilar. Beside the municipal hostel. Kitchen. They have a bar with a nice patio and do an evening meal and breakfast. The woman who runs the hostel is very friendly and helpful. Tel 987 631 621 Religious Hostel (66, donativo with breakfast, April to October) Albergue Gaucelmo. Opposite the entrance to the church in the centre of the village. Staffed by volunteers this hostel is run by the Confraternity of Saint James, a British organisation. Kitchen. Very welcoming. Tel 987 691 901There is a small shop. A couple of cafs on Calle Real do Pilgrim Menus and open for breakfast. The caf of Albergue Nuestra Seora del Pilar is nice and does good food. On some evenings there are Vespers with Gregorian chant in the village's small church.6km / 1 hrs to FoncebadnPrivate hostel (20, 7, February to November) Albergue Roger de Lauria. Caf which does meals. This is the old Albergue Convento under new management. Good reports. Tel 625 313 425 Private Hostel (35, 8) Albergue Monte Irago. Up the hillon the left. Kitchen. They do meals in their caf (with vegetarian options) using produce from their own garden and a good buffet breakfast which is also open to non-residents. They also have a small shop. Hippie vibe with alternative therapies and goats, cats, rabbits, etc. running around outside. Tel 695 452 950 Private Hostel (40, 7, March to November) Albergue La Cruz de Fierro. To the right of the Camino, down a narrow lane. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Parish Hostel (22, donativo, May to October) Albergue Parroquial Domus Dei. On the right at the end of the village in the renovated village church. Communal evening meal and pilgrim prayers (attendance voluntary, all welcome). Breakfast (basic). Run by volunteers. Friendly and welcoming. Private hostel (20, 7, March to October) La Posada del Druida to the right just before the Parish Hostel. Laundry facilities. New in 2014. Tel 696 820 136Albergue Monte Irago has a caf and sells food to take away. A little further up there's a shop on the left.

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2km / hr after Foncebadn you will come to the Cruz de Ferro. If there's snow it will be easier to walk on the road where there's less chance of falling or of getting lost. The road passes within a few metres of the cross so you're unlikely to miss it.

4km / 1 hr to ManjarnPrivate hostel (39, donativo) Just to the right of the Camino. Basic accommodation and an evening meal in this unique 'environmentally friendly' hostel where, apart from an occasional trip to the supermarket, little has changed since the 12th century. Pit toilet and a spring to wash in. No running water or heat. Toms the hospitalero, who dresses as a Templar, is something of a Camino legend.Entering El Bierzo. Fiestas Da Del Bierzo 8 September. You will descend 900m between here and Molinaseca (15km).

7 km / 1 hrs to El AceboMunicipal hostel (10, 5, summer only) Albergue Elisardo Panizo. On the right just at the start of the village. Basic facilities. Tel 988 695 074 Private Hostel (18, 7, March to November) Albergue Mesn El Acebo. On your left as you walk through the village. Laundry facilities. It has a caf / restaurant downstairs which does local specialities. The caf is open for breakfast. There's a separate dorm in another building which they open when this one is full. Tel 987 695 074 Parish Hostel (24, donativo, April to October) AlbergueParroquial Apstol Santiago. To the left of the Camino near the end of the village. Laundry facilities, kitchen. Evening meal and breakfast. Pilgrim discussion before meal. Welcoming. Private hostel (100, 10, closed Christmas and New Year) La Casa del Peregrino at the end of the village withmore flags than the UN. Laundry facilities, restaurant, caf, swimming pool, shop. New in 2014. Reported to be like a hotel! Tel 987 057 793Small shop on main street.4km / 1 hr to Riego de AmbrsMunicipal hostel (30, 5, April to October) Albergue de Peregrinos de Riego de Ambrs. On Calle Real on the left of the Camino. Kitchen, laundry facilities. If it's closed askin the nearby caf. Tel 696 482 873 A restaurant which does a Pilgrim Menu and a caf does snacks.There is a long, steep and difficult descent into Molinaseca. An easier alternative, if you don't like descents, orin poor weather, is to walk along the road.

4km / 1 hr to MolinasecaPrivate hostal (56, 7) Albergue Santa Marina. On the right after the old town. Laundry facilities. They have a bar and do breakfast. Modern and comfortable. Tel 987 453 077

Municipal Hostel (40, 5) Hospital de Peregrinos de Molinaseca. Just past the previous hostel on the left. Kitchen. In summer some of the places are outside under an awning. Tel 987 453 077There are many restaurants in the town and shops, etc. However, in winter many of them may be closed. In summer you can swim in the river by the bridge.There are two options when entering Ponferrada. Either follow the main road allthe way or follow the longer waymarked Camino to the left through a series of meanders to arrive at the municipal hostel from another direction.

8km / 2 hrs to PonferradaPrivate hostel (18, 10, March to October) Albergue Alea on Calle Teleno, which is just to the right of the right route into town shortly after it passes under a railway. Laundry facilities. They do a communal evening meal. New in 2014. Tel 660 416 251 Religious hostel (210, don

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