WIRRABARA May 2012

Canberra Bonsai Society Incorporated PO Box 800, Woden, ACT 2606 ABN 19 826 976 490

ISSN 1035-3291 www.cbs.org.au The Canberra Bonsai Society meets on the FIRST Saturday of each month (except in October & January) Meeting time 9.00am to 1.00pm Location: Hughes Community Centre, Wisdom Street, Hughes.

Editor’s Message

Greetings fellow bonsai artists,

It seems that the cold is here to stay. A number of my trees have

lost their leaves and gone into dormancy.

This month our meeting’s topic is Autumn Colour, so I’ll be

expecting your deciduous trees, maple, elm, hornbeam, beech,

liquidambar, oak, and ash…but I believe there are some natives

that can also give us a bit of colour around this time of year,

melaleuca comes to mind...At the meeting we are also having a

discussion on designing and developing bonsai, so bring your

questions along, I’ve got a few that I’d like to get cleared up.

Over the last year I have been watching a very educational series

on YouTube created and produced by some young bonsai artists

– Bjorn Bjorholm, and Owen Reich -

http://www.youtube.com/user/bjorvalabonsai The best video

yet, refining deciduous bonsai, has been recently been uploaded

so take a look.

Both Bjorn and Owen have studied in Japan, and have had a

number articles published in the major international bonsai

magazines.

There are many bonsai events coming up, so check out the event

calendar, to see what you can fit into your schedule.

Until next time…

CBS Communications

Editor’s message

President’s Report

Articles

Making your own bonsai pot A note from the committee Workshops at meetings Wood preservation Zeolite, Soil mix & Diatomite From The NBPCA Workbench Myrtle Rust From the Workbench Member Information

‘Bring a Tree’ raffle CBS Badges Seasonal notes Executive Committee BSB and Account

Operations

Event Calendar 2012 Advertisements

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President’s report I have seen one member’s tree strapped, wired and bent following Grant’s excellent demonstration on bending techniques last month. It is amazing to see the transformation of a plain looking tree into one that has pleasing movement, even drama if one is strong and adventurous enough. As we have seen from his own trees, Grant uses this technique to great effect. Maybe we will have a Show and Tell themed ‘Trees that I have bent’ – something to think about over winter when all else is quiet on the bonsai front. I am looking forward to the convention in Melbourne this month, and being able to tell you all about plans for our convention in May 2013 at the June meeting. I also plan to get to The Tops weekend this year, the first time it has not clashed with other commitments in particular Floriade demonstrations. There is more information later in the newsletter- a wonderful opportunity to see Marc Noelanders in Australia. Next month Penny Davis from Mudlark Pottery will be at our meeting to help us make our own pots. We had a similar activity quite a few years ago and everyone who took part enjoyed it. This time I will try to make one that does not look like a yeti foot. You need to sign up for this on the Participation list so we know how much clay we need. There is more information in this newsletter. In addition to useful information about treating wounds and wiring, Mick Balzary provides some good advice on designing trees – how not to get hung up about things we often do get hung about at the expense of the tree’s overall design. It’s only about 9 months now until the National Bonsai and Penjing Collection of Australia opens in its new home on the hill. Driving along the Parkway, it’s exciting to watch the Visitor Information Centre taking shape and knowing that the NBPCA is taking shape alongside it. It will be a treat to spend time there – one of the benefits of being a volunteer. I am pleased to welcome John L to the committee as our show manager. He and Jennifer will make a great team, supported by two Exec members and probably also the invaluable, seemingly indefatigable Frank K. It’s time to start thinking about what soil mix ingredients we need for spring. Ziggy will bring samples and an order form to the May meeting. We are trying something different this meeting – a small panel of ‘experienced artists’ you can ask all those burning questions about designing and developing bonsai. My deciduous autumn colour will be fully ‘deciduated’ by the May meeting, but I have a stock plant, Leptospermum nitidum ‘Copper Sheen’, looking good – I hope it stays that way but I can always bring something altogether different. Ruth

Make your own bonsai pot – June meeting Penny Davis of Mudlark Pottery will run a pot-making workshop for a maximum of 15 people at our June meeting. As well as ending up with a pot, you will learn something about Penny’s distinct style of pot making. This activity is subsidised by the club but there will be a charge depending on the size of pot you wish to make. There will be more information at the May meeting and a list to express interest.

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From the Workbench The time is rapidly approaching when the sap run in the trees will slow down and one can commence heavy pruning and training. A few suggestions follow. Sealing a Wound At times it is necessary to remove a heavy branch during the styling or re styling of a tree. With coniferous material Ian Hearn [a member now residing in northern NSW] discussed with me the use of a wire tourniquet to seal off the cut. This works! It is efficient and stops the sap run immediately. I imagine it would also apply to deciduous material, but I believe it is usual with maples, etc to flush cut using knob cutters and apply a sealant. Take a few centimeters of appropriate gauge wire, place it about 50mm from the end of the cut branch, form a circle of wire and tie. Using a pair of bonsai pliers tighten the wire by twisting until it bites deeply into the bark and cambium. Neaten off the wire and “voila”, that’s it. You can apply a sealant if you wish but it is not necessary. When the sap run has ceased and the time comes to remove the tourniquet, you will notice that it has loosened and is no longer effective and can be removed. With my pine trees I usually wait a minimum of 12 months. Bonsai is a waiting game! I have shown this method by practical demonstration to several members and they in turn should be able to pass it on. Wiring Wire up, wire down? Remember, at least two to three turns at the anchor point is required for success. If the branch you are wiring is to be placed upwards then the first placement/turn of the wire is from below the branch. If the branch is to be wired downwards then the first placement/turn of the wire is from above the branch. Believe me, this helps in the correct and easy movement of the branch with the direction in which you want it to go. Want to slow the branch growth down? If one wants to slow the branch growth down then the wiring is continued to the branch tip and the tip is kept below the level that the branch leaves the trunk. Want the branch to continue to grow? If one wants the branch to continue to grow [or receive more food for want of better words] then the branch tip is wired up. If this is not clear then please get an experienced member to demonstrate. The apex A common question – where is the Top? - Where is the Apex? It almost seems to me that unless the future apex is chosen during the initial styling then all has failed. Just reflect, with some trees that have been in my possession for 30-35 years have had their apex changed maybe 5-10 times. The first selection is not the final selection, so please do not be too concerned about it. Most times the direction of the tree is clear and a “starting” apex can be chosen. However often it is best to style up, leaving the apex selection until last. Please consider. Trunk movement It is said the first movement of the trunk should move away from the viewer or to the either side. Not toward you, assuming you have located a viewing front of the tree. I think this is correct and produces something pleasing to the eye. But not always will the tree allow this. It is my practice just to style the tree, and then choose the front. Many times I have been asked “where is the front?” A good question, but I am unable to answer, except to say that I have decided on the most interesting feature of the tree and am styling to bring this out, rather than to have a front. That can follow later. Surface Roots Everyone goes poking about on the soil surface to locate, expose and examine the surface roots. Called in Japanese “nebari”. I am not Japanese and I prefer to use my given language, a poor but acceptable version of English. What takes preference? One has a wonderful developed tree with great prospects, until the surface roots are exposed and one by his/her rigid, unbending view decides to start again using the best of the surface rootage. Think again please. If my direction is chosen then I will make use of the best one can do with surface rootage. If the best surface roots are to the back then so be it. One can use a stone placement or some other substitute. If you are patient and have the determination you can graft roots in place. Please think outside the square. I hope my comments are helpful, and are not upsetting. If we do not try, experiment; accept other points of view then I imagine the human race would not yet have the wheel.

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In May I am traveling overseas, as well as going to the AABC convention in Melbourne. I am looking forward to Melbourne, my birthplace but wish the meet were held south of the Yarra where I am in comfortable territory. I especially want to see and meet Boon from the USA. Enjoy your Bonsai; make it look like a tree, not the tree look like a bonsai. Mick

A note from the committee It would be a great help if members paid their subs on receiving their first ‘Renewal Letter’ – We are all busy people but please remember that we are volunteers doing these jobs and would rather spend our spare time working on our trees. Our preference is for you to pay by ‘Direct Credit’, instructions are on the form, but please also hand in your completed form. Workshop time and assistance at meetings. We want to increase the workshop time and assistance with trees at meetings, while still providing a range

of activities for all members. Starting at the May meeting, we aim to start formalities at 9.15, and finish these

as efficiently as possible. We will have a special table for beginners who would like extra support to work on

their trees and nominated helpers for other members requiring assistance.

Wood hardening and preservation I have been experimenting with 'wood hardening and preservation' of Jins and other 'deadwoods'. The popular belief is that deciduous tree deadwood should be removed from Bonsai, the reason being that the wood will rot off in nature, as opposed to Pines that have a natural preservative to harden off. But what if you had a really nice piece of soft wood or trunk on your Bonsai and want to keep it? One option is/was to purchase a commercial 'wood hardener' and spray or paint the wood. One such product was Earl's Wood Hardener, a commercial product that costs around $25 for 250ml. Earl's has some restrictions, including the drilling of holes to penetrate the wood... not good for a prized Bonsai. I have a Wisteria that has a moist rotted trunk that I want to keep... I bought some Earl's Wood hardener and applied it to the wood. The end result was that just surface applications did not work, as the underlining 'rotted' wood was not dry enough to be penetrated. Well, I think I may have a cheaper solution. I purchased some Super Glue from a $2 shop (the liquid type… not the Gel) and applied that to the wood. To my delight the glue penetrated the soft and moist rotted wood and instantly hardened. The cost was $2 for 6 tubes of glue!! I am led to believe that the glue is 'cyanoacrylate based' and non-toxic to humans and I'm guessing also non-toxic to plants as well. I now have a hard wood trunk and can do some carving as well. Please remember that this is a dangerous product and if miss handled you may end up with your Bonsai stuck to your finger... Ziggy

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Zeolite, Soil mix and Diatomite Orders for the Diatomite, Zeolite and Soil mixes have not yet been finalised, and there is still time to place orders. At the May meeting we will be bringing in all the samples again for members to add to or amend the list. Both the April and May orders will be consolidated and placed on the 'Soil Participation' list and made available for a short period so that non-attending members have an opportunity to also place orders. The easiest way is to go to the CBS web site, log in and check the Participation lists. You can change the number of bags you want using the edit button..... in the 3rd box in your row of the table. If you haven't placed an order, you can add a row for yourself by scrolling to the bottom of the table and selecting - Insert Row. Pricing will also be made available for each of the soils on the web site in May. It is anticipated that orders will be placed and made available for collection at the June and July meeting.

From The NBPCA Workbench Atlantic Cedar make wonderful material for bonsai. The Cedrus atlantica ‘glauca’, blue foliage Atlantic cedar ,

created by the late Joe Micallef and donated by a consortium of his ‘friends’, was one of the first trees

donated to the NBPCA. The tree has evolved wonderfully over the last 7 years, since it was purchased by the

consortium. Here are a couple of early pictures.

This is Joe standing beside the tree at his house in

Narrabundah back in 2005. Joe was a carpenter, and enjoyed

working with wood. This was evident in the many carved

bonsai that he created.

This Atlantic cedar dates back to 1964 when Joe started the

tree with the intent of creating a bonsai from seed. We do not

have any earlier pictures of the tree other than the one above

with Joe standing beside it. If you are reading this article and

knew Joe, you may have some earlier pictures, if so; we would

love a copy of them. I personally love this tree; it was my

favourite of Joe’s collection. For a short while before he died I tried to drop in about once a week when I was

on his side of town. I remember studying the tree and its wonderful hollowed trunk and carved shari. It was

nice to sit with Joe and have a cuppa on a fine sunny day among his bonsai.

After the tree was purchased, it stayed at one of the consortium member’s for care and preparation for the

upcoming opening of the NBPCA. This person knows a lot about cedars and was able to bring the tree up to a

displayable standard. The tree required a bit of work, the following pictures show some of its progression.

Over the last couple of years, we have continued to refine the cedar. The long dropping branch on the right

was damaged before we took possession of the tree and we have been trying to regrow it. We have also been

working hard trying to build an apex to the tree that works well with the rest of the foliage. Here are some

more pictures.

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The tree is very popular among visitors to the Collection and invokes much enquiry. One of the big questions

is “how do you make the tree go white like that?” After the tree was carved, Joe would have allowed the

carved area to dry out, and then would have applied lime sulphur. Sometimes Joe was a little impatient, and

one day he applied lime sulphur to a tree in an enclosed area, he was overcome by the fumes and needed to

go to hospital. It is best to apply the lime sulphur in an outdoor area, reapplication is required yearly. This

will help to preserve the wood and also gives it the bleached white look.

Here are some pictures of our senior volunteer, Jim, working on the tree, and Ian showing the tree

pollinating.

Here is the tree as it is today. Cedar are slow to grow as bonsai, but over the last 7 years, I believe we have

made great progress.

Leigh T

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Some Information about Myrtle Rust In March I attended a presentation on Myrtle Rust (MR) by Johnathon Lidbetter. Johnathon works for the

NSW government and is researching and disseminating information about the effects of MR and some

control measures for it. The following is my summary of the presentation which gives a general idea of the

subject for bonsai artists – but is not to be considered an authoritative source on MR. I have also used

extracts and photos from the Nursery Industry Association MR Management Plan 2011 and the Australian

Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority.

Myrtle rust was first identified in eastern Australia in 2010. It is a parasitic fungus native to South America,

requiring a live host to develop and reproduce. Unfortunately, among the suitable live hosts for MR are

about 10% of our Australian native species.

The disease infects young, actively growing or emerging leaves, buds, flowers, fruit and shoots of plants

within the Myrtaceae family. In Australia to date the most severe infections of the disease have been

recorded on Agonis, Tristania, Syzygium, Jambos and Austromyrtus species.

While about 320 species of Australian plants have been confirmed as vulnerable to MR, it is expected that up

to 5000 species are at risk. Some of the species identified that we might commonly use in bonsai include: · Melaleuca/Callistemon

· Baekea/Babingtonia/Sannantha

· Leptospermum

· Syzygium

· Angophora

· Eucalyptus

Some species that are not affected by MR are: · Banksia

· Casuarina/Allocasuarina

MR may infect plants living in a wide range of environmental conditions; however infection rates may be heightened when the following conditions are present:

· Soft new growth/tissue · High humidity · Free water on plant surfaces for 6 hours or more · Night temperatures within 15 - 25⁰C · Low light conditions including darkness (minimum

of 8 hours) after spore contact can increase germination success

MR has the ability to complete its entire lifecycle on a single host plant in as short as 10 – 14 days. The general symptoms of MR are:

· Small purple flecks with a faint yellow halo on leaf surfaces

· Large purple lesions as a result of flecks coalescing · Purple lesions and bright yellow rust pustules (spores) · Bright yellow rust pustules (spores) on underside of the leaf (young infection) · Bright yellow rust pustules (spores) on both sides of the leaf (mature infection) · Small and large purple lesions and leaf distortion (twisting) · Older lesions can contain brown/grey rust pustules (older spores) on the lesions

MR spores are believed to remain viable (under optimal conditions) for between 3 – 6 months.

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MR damages the plant by destroying the effectiveness of the leaves in providing the plant with energy. The

younger leaves are the more vulnerable and as they are infected and die, their replacements become infected

and die – until the plant has no strength left to produce new leaves. Branches or indeed the whole tree may

eventually die. The spores are transmitted either by human/animal/insect movement or through the air by

the wind – making it a very mobile fungus.

Jonathon concluded his presentation by saying that, while Australia was likely to lose some native plant

species to this strain of fungus, that it was not all doom and gloom. Many species of Australian plants will be

able to cope with MR albeit not developing as well as they might without it. There are some preventative

measures – chemical – that can be used to eradicate the fungus from trees temporarily – e.g. in the garden,

nursery or small orchard – but it is likely to remain in nature and therefore a constant menace locally due to

its easy airborne distribution. Some orchards are at more risk as spraying chemicals to control MR is not

possible because of the build-up of undesirable chemicals in the trees which through their produce will be

passed on to humans – the tea tree oil industry is one such example.

The Australian Government has issued a permit (number PER12828) for general use of the following chemicals in the control of MR. It covers all states and territories and is summarised in the extract below.

RICHGRO COPPER FUNGICIDE & LEAF CURL SPRAY

PLUS OTHER REGISTERED PRODUCTS

Containing: 500 g/kg COPPER OXYCHLORIDE as their only active constituent.

SEARLES MANCOZEB FUNGICIDE

PLUS OTHER REGISTERED PRODUCTS

Containing: 750 g/kg MANCOZEB as their only active constituent.

SHARP SHOOTER TRIFORINE ROSE SPRAY CONCENTRATE

PLUS OTHER REGISTERED PRODUCTS

Containing: 19 or 20 g/L TRIFORINE as their only active constituent.

Plant Damage

Due to the wide range of susceptible species covered under this permit, these chemicals have not been exhaustively

tested for potential damage to plants following treatment. Treat a sample area and assess appropriately prior to

whole crop treatment to help minimise potential for phytotoxic damage. This action cannot guarantee crop safety

as application, environmental and crop conditions may vary from test treatment to whole of crop treatment. This

is particularly important for plants in flower.

Management strategy:

Triforine is slightly curative as well as a protectant. It can be applied when disease is noticeably affecting plants or

prior to this when warm, wet and humid conditions prevail. Both mancozeb and copper oxychloride are

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protectants and should be applied before disease is noticeably affecting plants when warm, wet and humid

conditions prevail.

Fungicide Activity Minimum re-treatment interval

between consecutive applications

TRIFORINE Systemic, slightly curative

and protectant

7 days

MANCOZEB Protectant 7 days

COPPER OXYCHLORIDE Protectant 7-14 days

We may be more fortunate here in Canberra than bonsai enthusiasts living in warmer and more humid

climates, in that our cooler and drier environment is likely to be a ‘natural protectant’ to some degree and

reduce the impact should a tree become infected – and enhance the probability of full recovery after

chemical treatment such as the above. However, people buying plants from the coast, should examine their

plants and others in the nursery to ensure that they cannot see any MR before they buy. This would reduce

the risk of bringing the disease into Canberra generally and their collection specifically.

If you wish to study this topic further, the following NSW Government website is a good starting place …

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/biosecurity/plant/myrtle-rust

Mike W

‘Bring a Tree’ raffle Every month the Secretary writes out a raffle ticket for each person who brings a tree to work on or for

Show and Tell – two tickets for our first Show and Tell. In December the raffle is drawn at the December

meeting and the winner receives a cheque for $100 made out to their nominated bonsai goods supplier.

CBS Badges

We recently place an order for more society badges, and they have arrived. Canberra

Bonsai Society badges (they look like the picture to the left) are available from the

treasurer at all meetings, for $7.50. For members that have not yet purchased a

badge, we encourage you to pick one up, and wear it at appropriate functions to

advertise our society.

Seasonal Notes http://cbs.org.au/wiki/index.php?title=From_the_Workbench_-_a_compilation

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Event Calendar 2012

CBS Events 5th May CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Autumn Colour

Discussion – designing and developing bonsai 2nd June CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Pines and other conifers

Carving, and Zeolite distribution 7th July CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Deciduous trees

Q and A – soil mixes, fertilising, pest and disease control, and soil distribution. 4th August CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Shohin and root over rock

Shohin bonsai presentation – Mario L Q and A – stock selection, and pot selection

August CBS Annual bus trip

1st September CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Multiple trunks Q and A – displaying trees at shows, and a t home etc

13th, and 14th

October

CBS Annual Show

3rd November CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Figs and Azaleas Tree development workshop

1st December CBS Monthly Meeting – Show and Tell: Christmas Trees Christmas quiz

Other Events 18-21 May 2012 • AABC Convention – ‘Be Inspired’ – Melbourne.

• Boon Manakitivipart, www.bonsaiboon.com • Don DeLucca, and Glen Bebb.

9 - 10 June 2012 • Bonsai Federation of Australia - Bonsai by the Harbour • Sydney Church of England Grammar School (Shore)

24 – 26 August 2012

• Illawarra ‘Tops Weekend’, - Marc Nöelanders, Tony Bebb • http://www.illawarrabonsaisociety.org/tops-weekend.html

30 September - 1 October

• Sydney AABC & BFA clubs Sydney Bonsai Spectacular • Merrylands RSL, 14 Military Road

Executive Committee

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President Ruth Phone: (02) 6255 2058 Secretary Mike W Phone (02) 6231 9688 Treasurer Allan R Phone (02) 6258 2281

Newsletter Editor Scott R Phone: 0411 983 901 wirrabara@cbs.org.au

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Project Officer Ziggy Z Phone: Librarian Lorraine V Phone: (02) 6281 2956 Publicity Officer Neville H Phone: 0414 354 957 Membership Officer Peter G Phone (02) 6288 0828 Newsletter Mailing John L Phone: Administrative Officer Fay B Phone (02) 6251 0771

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Bonsai Art Pty Ltd – Imperial Bonsai Nursery Specialist in Japanese Pots and Tools (Trade welcomed). Extensive range of bonsai, plants, accessories and books DVD (Introduction to Bonsai by Megumi Bennett) View the private collection of Megumi and Alex Bennett. Classes and Workshops for everyone, novice to advanced. Group and private lessons available all styles of bonsai taught

18 Myoora Rd Terrey Hills, NSW 2084 Tel: 02: 9450 2802 Fax: 02 9450 1903

Email: bonsai@wix.com.au

Web: http://www.megumibennettbonsai.com OPEN 7 DAYS 9am-5pm

BSB and Account It would be much appreciated if members paid for all club related items using direct deposit, the details are

as follows:

Acc. Name: Canberra Bonsai Society Incorporated;

BSB: 032 724;

Acc. Number: 176358; and

Include your initial and surname as a reference, and please email the treasurer (treasurer@cbs.org.au) with

a description of the payment. Remember to also pick up your receipt at the next meeting.

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