FEATURESC E N T R A L C OAS T M AG A Z I N E

40

52

O N T H E C O V E RUltimate Chef competitors play nice for a quick group shot at the Cass House in Cayucos. From left to right: Chef Budi Kazali of the Ballard Inn in Santa Ynez, Chef Doug MacMillan of Rosa’s Italian Restaurant in Pismo Beach, Chef Kelly Wangard of the Paso Robles Inn Steak-house, Chef Christophe Grosjean (seated) of L’ Auberge Carmel, and Jensen Lorenzen (top right) from Cass House in Cayucos.

Ultimate ChefTwenty local chefs vie for the title of Ultimate Chef Central Coast 2009 in CCM®’s annual culinary competition.

Th e Art of the BlendCentral Coast winemakers mix up one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

40

There is probably no better measure of a chef’s talent than to give

him or her free reign to create a dish, without restriction, from a

specific ingredient. With 10 days to contemplate the best, most

intriguing use of nuts, 20 chefs from around the region created four

dishes designed to wow the judges with their creativity and skill.

After the qualifying round, the two top finalists—Executive Chef Budi Kazali

from The Ballard Inn in the Santa Ynez Valley and Executive Chef Christophe

Grosjean from L’Auberge Carmel—met in a head to head cook-off at the

Idler’s Appliance showroom in Paso Robles. Seven chefs from the initial

competition served their high-scoring dishes to the audience; Adelaida

Cellars poured a selection of their award-winning wines; and 200 CCM®

readers, friends, and clients watched as these two top contenders prepared

their creations made with a new ingredient: the lowly but lovely almond.

C H A L L E N G E : N U T S

Budi Kazali

Creativity is not enough to win a competition like this. A chef must also be a master of technique, an expert of execution, have some good experience under his belt, and be cool under fi re in the kitchen. And it doesn’t hurt if everybody likes him. Budi Kazali is all that.

While his résumé may refl ect some big, well-known names in the restaurant world, he is long past the stage of having to site his former posts for recognition—as it is his name that inspires knowing nods from foodies far and wide. As chef and owner of The Ballard Inn, he draws locals and visitors to his 12-table dining room to indulge in world-class fare.

Known not only for his inspired French and Asian infl uenced wine country cuisine but also for his exquisite plating and artistic presentations, he is highly regarded by diners—but he’s also a favorite among his peers. There’s not a chef in the region who will be surprised that Budi Kazali has been named CCM®’s Ultimate Chef for 2009.

BUDIKAZALI

42

Serves 4

2 duck breasts, skin scored and trimmed1 bunch asparagus, trimmed½ tsp shallots, minced½ tsp garlic, minced3 Tbsp white wineSalt and pepperBamboo Rice (recipe on CCM® website)Crunchy Almond and Garlic Garnish Almond Massaman Curry SauceApple Salad

Preheat oven to 400°F. Season duck with salt and pepper then sear duck in sauté pan over medium heat, skin side down for about 6 minutes, until crispy. Turn over and place in oven for 2 – 3 minutes. Remove and allow duck to rest for 2 – 3 minutes before slicing. Reserve pan and rendered duck fat to sauté asparagus. Sauté asparagus in reserved duck fat for 1 minute. Add shallots and garlic, deglaze with wine and continue to cook until desired doneness.

Using an O ring mold, place ½ cup of bamboo rice on center of the plate, tamping down. Add 3 Tbsp of the almond garnish, tamping gently, then remove the ring. Drizzle curry sauce around the rice. Place asparagus on the rice, then slices of duck breast over the asparagus. Top with Fuji apple and raisin salad, and serve.

Crunchy Almond and Garlic Garnish½ c almonds, roughly choppedCanola oil3 Tbsp garlic, roughly chopped2 tsp chili flakes1 Tbsp parsley, chopped

Combine almonds and oil in a pot. Slowly bring to a boil and fry until almonds begin to turn golden brown. Add garlic and remove from heat. Strain when golden brown, then add chili flakes and parsley.

Almond Massaman Curry1 can coconut milk1 c almond milk2 Tbsp palm sugar4 Tbsp fish sauce2 Tbsp tamarind paste½ c almonds, toastedAlmond Curry Paste (recipe on CCM® website)

Sauté curry paste in pot. Add coconut milk and bring to simmer. Add sugar, fish sauce and tamarind to taste. Stir in toasted almonds and add almond milk until desired consistency is reached.

Apple Salad1 Fuji apple, julienned2 Tbsp raisins, finely chopped 1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar3 Tbsp almond oil2 Tbsp almonds, toasted and choppedSalt and pepper to taste

Combine raisins and vinegar. Add almond oil, salt, and pepper. Add in apple and almonds. Set aside for plating.

PAN SEARED DUCK BREAST WITH ALMOND MASSAMAN CURRY and Crispy Fried Almond Bamboo Rice

Ultimate Chef Budi Kazali keeps his cool

as things heat up in the kitchen. Brett Stephens

and Francisco Velasquez (below) round out the

team, working together to skillfully prepare the

plates of winning cuisine for our judges.

C H A L L E N G E : N U T SFirst CourseMacadamia Crusted Maine Lobster

with Candlenut NageSecond CourseDuck Two Ways:

Duck Breast with Toasted Walnut and Apple SaladFoie Soup with Walnut Foam and CrostiniThird CourseRack of Lamb Coated with Spicy Pistachio

Served with Asian Pistachio PestoFourth CourseAlmond and Brown Butter Financier

Almond Ice Cream and Amaretto Syrup

C H A L L E N G E : A L M O N D S

Kumamoto Oyster with Sparkling Almond Mignonette and Almond GranitaFirst Course

Almond Crusted Skate Wing with Arugula Salad and Valencia Almond Brown ButterSecond Course

Pan Seared Duck Breast with Crispy Fried Almond Bamboo Rice and Almond Massaman CurryThird Course

Almond Braised Veal Cheek with Almond Crusted Sweet-bread with Homemade Almond Fettuccini and Marcona

Almond GremolataFourth Course“Ode to Almond Joy”

Almond Milk Shake with Chocolate Ganache and Coconut Tuille

Almond Panna Cota with Chocolate Sauce and Toasted Coconut

Almond Toasted Marzipan Dipped in Chocolate with Coconut Syrup

Ballard Inn & Restaurant2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard(805) 688-7770www.ballardinn.comBUDIKAZALI

Last year we touted L’Auberge Carmel as one of our ultimate Gourmet Getaways, and we’re not the only press to bestow tiny Aubergine Restaurant with accolades. Frankly, even if the food was just good (rather than sublime), we’d still love the charming French chef at the helm. Christophe Grosjean learned to appreciate food as everyone should: from his grandmother.

Though his culinary background is impressive, this is another chef that doesn’t need validation based on where he’s been, since where he is happens to be one of the Central Coast’s true gems. At Aubergine, Chef Grosjean creates exquisite dishes that honor the best of our local bounty. The tasting menu is a celebration of flavor and form, as each beautiful offering represents the passion this delightful chef has for his craft. His entries for the competition were like works of art, and the judges all sat and stared for a few minutes before disturbing the mini-masterpieces, a smile of satisfaction on their faces. With his place as CCM®’s Ultimate Chef runner-up, we expect even more faces will be wearing that smile.

C H A L L E N G E : N U T SWalnutEndive, Beet, Argon Oil Powder,

Walnut Vinaigrette, Blue Cheese FoamAlmondGreen Garlic Risotto, Bergamot “au sel”,

Roasted Almond Milk, Red AbalonePine NutPine Nut Crusted Lamb Loin, Goat Cheese Jus, ZucchiniPistachio

Hazelnut “Dacquoise”, Meyer Lemon Curd, Bartlett Pear, Pecan Nougatine, Pistachio Ice Cream

C H A L L E N G E : A L M O N D SFirst CourseOrgeat “Martini”, Dragée Crumble Rim

served with Marcona Almond Emulsion, Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche, Bergamot “au sel”, AsparagusSecond Course

Almond Oil Poached White Sea Bass, Almond Butter and Spring Onion Purée, Mizuna, Pomme “Amandine”Third Course

Hickory Smoked Almond-Crusted Squab, Foie Gras, Patta Negra Ham, Brussels Sprout, Woodcock JusFourth Course

Carmel Almond Financier, d’Anjou Pear, Ginger Confit, Meyer Lemon, Jordan Almond Ice Cream

Pictured Right: Sous Chef Logan Jones and Chef Christophe Grosjean

work together to create the stunning presentation

of his Carmel Almond Financier. But the real

crowd pleaser of the night was his top-scoring first

course (pictured left). Visit centralcoastmag.com for

the exclusive recipe.

Aubergine at L’ Auberge CarmelMonte Verde at SeventhCarmel-by-the-Sea(831) 624-8578www.laubergecarmel.com

FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM

CHRISTOPHEGROSJEAN

44

CHEF KELLY WANGARDPaso Robles Inn Steakhouse

CHEF TORY MARTINDALE Bella Vista, Four Seasons Resort

the Biltmore Santa Barbara

Brazil Nut Crusted Sea Scallop with Local Abalone, Caulifl ower Panna Cotta, Hazelnut Essence

Paradise Blue Cheese and Cody Farms Waterloo Walnut Baklava with Chandler Walnut Pear Sap. Served with Salad of Jicama, Watermelon Radish and Sunfl ower Sprouts with Serrs Walnut Vinaigrette

NOTABLE DISHES

WildcardA savory interpretation of the usually sweet pastry, one judge simply called it “fl awless.” The chef used three different varieties of local walnuts in the various components of this exquisite dish, educating us in the process—a sure way to gain extra points.

PHOTO BY CORAL JOHNSON

Appetizer Appetizer This ultra fresh, super

sweet, and perfectly cooked scallop served

over the delicate panna cotta, was the ideal

foundation to showcase the burnt hazelnut purée.

As one judge said, “The dish was elevated by

the fl avor of the nut from delicious to impeccable.”

FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM

EntréeThe chef used the secret ingredient to full effect in this outstanding dish, and one judge acknowledged his effort by saying it was “unmistakable what he was going for.” The crusted lamb had unique texture due to the handling of the two different nuts. The exceptional bread pudding was savory and delicate. One judge called the combination “a delectable bite.”

DessertIt takes a master to create a dish this decadent yet have the result seem light. Chopped almonds were suspended in the steamed pudding for perfect texture, while a lightly sweetened whipped cream balanced the flavors. This entry garnered the coveted “oh my god” bonus point from all of the judges.

CHEF MARK AYERSPacific’s EdgeHighlands Inn, Carmel

CHEF SHAWN WASHBURNShawn’s on Main, Morro Bay

Chocolate Almond Sticky Toffee Pudding with Whipped Cream

Almond Purée and Crushed Pecan Crusted Lamb Loin with Gorgonzola and Candied Pecan Brioche Bread Pudding and Dried Cherry Demi

PHOTO BY KIM LEMAIRE

46

NUTSOnce we made the decision to use nuts as the secret ingredient for the qualifying round, we were left with a dilemma. Most things we think of as nuts are actually botanically considered seeds: walnuts, pecans, almonds, cashews, and pistachios, for example. A peanut is a legume and a seed. Hazelnuts and chestnuts are “true” nuts, as is an acorn. But in the culinary sense, these are all understood to be nuts, regardless of their botanical definition. So we asked the chefs to use their discretion and be prepared to explain their choices to the judges.

During the competition, we encountered every commonly known nut from A to Z (well, actually from acorns to walnuts), and experienced a diversity of clever preparations and unique interpretations—just a few of which are mentioned here. We also came across some entries that we felt simply pushed the qualifying ingredient a little far, such as pumpkin seeds, the lychee nut, and even Coca Cola (to denote the cola nut). Regardless, each dish represented the chef’s creative talent, as well as his or her competitive spirit.

Pan Seared Bluenose Sea Bass, Chestnut Gnocchi, Black Truffle, Celery,

Brown Butter Emulsion

CHEF WILL TORRESDeborah’s Room at JustInn, Paso Robles

AlmondsWe always looked for the nuts to be truly incorporated in the dish, and some chefs did this particularly well. At Stokes in Monterey, Chef Brian Christiansen prepared a rustic but delicious Almond Späetzle with local wild mushrooms topped with a shav-ing of Grana Parmesan, while Justin Gabbert at Novo in San Luis Obispo used ground almonds as the base for a spicy sauce that accompanied his Shrimp Lollipops. At Seagrass, Greg Murphy used the Marcona variety to make an almond crema for his Pan-Seared Sea Scallop. In a dish one judge called “totally surprising and exceptional,” Chef Tim Kilcoyne used almonds as the basis of this wonderful chilled soup (shown).

Chilled Almond Soup with Pickled Grapes and Smoked Trout

CHEF TIM KILCOYNEThe Sidecar Restaurant, Ventura

ChestnutsChef Deborah Scarborough at Black Cat Bistro combined this “true” nut with pear to make a delightful purée upon which she set apple and chestnut stuffed pheasant breast. Jensen Lorenzen of Cass House also made a chestnut purée but used the skin of the nut to create a wonderfully unique smoke component in his Pig’s Foot & Clove Consommé with Oxtail. Will Torres used chestnut as the basis for the gnoc-chi served with his entrée of bluenose sea bass (shown). All four judges were so impressed with the gnocchi, they said they would eat an entire plate of it —find the recipe on our website. This is one we know the judges will be downloading.

HazelnutsFrom hazelnut shells for smoking, to ground nuts for crusting, to Frangelico for flavoring, our chefs used lots of hazelnuts. While Brian Christiansen served a Frangelico Foie Gras Torchon and David Reardon from Miró in Santa Barbara prepared Hazelnut Dusted Bobwhite Quail, most hazelnut entries came in the dessert category. Mark Ayers from Pacific’s Edge offered a dessert Duo of Hazelnut, which included a Banana Hazel-nut Spring Roll, Frangelico Caramel, and a Bittersweet Chocolate Hazelnut Parfait with roasted hazelnut foam. But it was a trio from Chef Doug MacMillan (shown) that garnered special mention, called a “delicious celebra-tion of this nut,” by one judge.

Mixed Nuts While the chefs were required to use a differ-ent nut in each of their four dishes, nothing precluded them from using more than one nut in any given entry, and many combined types of nuts for unique results. Kirk Sowell’s North African Five-Nut Gite Gite included hazelnuts, cashews, pecans, almonds, and Brazil nuts. Chef Richard Wirz served handmade pistachio gelato in a pecan molasses cone, habanero Spanish peanut brittle served with a cashew, and Frangelico hot chocolate with pistachio and meyer lemon whipped cream. But it was David Miller of Level 4 who stunned us with his Four-Nut Pâté (shown). Though delicious on its own, when combined with the other flavors on the plate it incited one judge to not only give it full points, but to draw a little star followed by an exclamation point.

Macadamia Nuts With its light crispy texture and delicate, buttery taste, the Macadamia is a versatile nut that ideally complements a variety of dishes. Chef Tory Martindale utilized the tropical nut in his creative dessert that featured a Caramelized Banana and Macadamia Nut Monte Cristo. Chef Richard Wirz, on the other hand, incorporated the ingredient into a more savory dish by adding roasted macadamias to his silky acorn and pumpkin squash soup. But the judges gave top marks to Kelly Wangard’s Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Peppered Banana (shown) that she enhanced with the Nut French Toast, Can-died Macadamias and Apple Cider Reduction. The end result was an absolutely perfect bite that one judge called, “A real show of her talent as a professional chef.”

Pine NutsIn addition to the pine nuts we found in pestos, they were also used to crust sea-food (as with the Pine Nut Lemon Crusted Yellowtail from Andy Brooks), and lamb (Pine Nut Basil Dusted Lamb with Cilantro Pine Nut Emulsion from Shawn Washburn). But the most unusual and captivating pine nut dish we encountered was the Potato Pine Nut Fritter with California Osetra Caviar served with onion and egg garnish (shown) from David McWilliam at the Gardens of Avila. The perfect fritter was crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. “The wonderful taste of the pine nuts really came through, even with the strong flavors of the onion and caviar,” said one judge, while another called it “brilliant.”

Four-Nut Pâté with Seared Sonoma Foie Gras, Stone Fruit Chutney, Hush Harbor Baguette, and Moët Reduction

CHEF DAVID MILLER, Level 4, Paso Robles

Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Peppered Banana, Nut French Toast, Candied Macadamia, Apple Cider Reduction

CHEF KELLY WANGARD, Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse

Potato Pine Nut Fritter with California Osetra Caviar and Traditional Garnishes

CHEF DAVID MCWILLIAM, Gardens of Avila

Dessert Trio: Affogato al Caffè with Hazelnut Ice Cream, Chocolate Hazelnut Torte, and Wafer Basket with Zabaglione and Berries

CHEF DOUG MACMILLANRosa’s Italian Restaurant, Pismo Beach

FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM

48

Dusted & CrustedWe knew we’d see nuts used to coat a variety of ingredients, but in every case the interpretation and execution of this classic preparation resulted in maximum impact of the secret in-gredient. Tom Fundaro of Villa Creek crusted chile relleno with pistachios; Andy Brooks of Brooks in Ventura dusted Mexican shrimp with walnuts and cornmeal; and Shawn Washburn of Shawn’s on Main served a pine nut and basil dusted lamb. Without a doubt, one of the most uniquely crusted dishes—and certainly one of the most stunning presentations overall—came from David Reardon of Miró at the Bacara Resort in Santa Barbara with his black sea bass with marcona almond scales (shown).

SmokeThe most gratifying aspect of the competition is when a chef does something that would have never occurred to the rest of us, demonstrating just why they are chefs and we are not. Using the nuts as fuel to smoke meat is a perfect example. Deborah Scarborough from the Black Cat Bistro in Cambria smoked squab breast with hazelnut shells, which she served with an amazing foie gras hazelnut froth. Tim Kilcoyne of The Sidecar Restaurant in Ventura also used hazelnut shells to smoke his pork belly dish, which was then braised and served with corn, black Russian kale, jalapeño, and thyme. And Chef Gregg Wangard from Marisol at the Cliff’s Resort in Shell Beach used a “true” nut to give a distinctly smoky flavor to his Acorn Smoked

Ribeye (shown).

Molé Molé is the generic name for a variety of Mexican sauces made from chiles, but the version most of us are familiar with uses ground nuts or seeds as one of the key ingredients, providing texture as well as flavor. When we first encountered it, a nod of appreciation went around the judging table. “Of course, molé!” Served by Tom Fundaro, this first molé utilized almonds and pecans and was served with his excellent Rabbit Tamales with Calico Bean Hash and Fried Green Bananas (shown). Chef Andy Brooks served Cured Hudson Valley Duck Breast with Traditional Molé made with peanuts and almonds, while David McWilliam from Gardens of Avila prepared an outstanding Grilled Venison Loin Molé, which he accented with a cashew nut vinaigrette.

Black Sea Bass, Marcona Almonds, Spinach, Pine Nut,

Romesco Sauce

CHEF DAVID REARDONMiró, Bacara Resort, Santa Barbara

left Acorn Smoked Ribeye, Cliff’s Swiss

Chard, Pine Nuts, Raisins, Rouille

CHEF GREGG WANGARDMarisol at the Cliffs Resort, Shell Beach

right

Rabbit Molé Tamales with Calico Bean Hash and Fried Green Bananas

CHEF TOM FUNDAROVilla Creek, Paso Robles

TECHNIQUES&TRENDS

Modern CookingFrom the molecular gastronomy movement, a greater understanding of the science of cooking has emerged in many kitchens. This, along with the technological advances in equipment and the discovery of the impact of various natural gums and hydrocolloids, means that chefs are producing new results from traditional ingredients.

Chef Jensen Lorenzen made an extraordinary PB&J (shown) of Foie Gras with Peanut Brioche, Quince Jam, Bliss Maple Syrup, and Peanut Dust. And while the dish overall was a knockout, we mention it here because of the peanut dust: using maltodex-trin, he turned peanut butter into granular powder which then reconstituted instantly in the mouth.

Other stunning advances in food-science were experienced by Chef Will Torres’ one hour poached egg cooked sous-vide, and his whipped pistachio oil which required adding a little gelatin and xan-than gum. Likewise, Tory Martindale prepared his squab sous-vide to ensure perfect doneness, which he then seared before serving. He also treated us to toasted almonds transformed into powder with maltodextrin as an accompaniment to his dessert.

PestoMany cooks use nuts in pesto, and we looked forward to wonderful traditional pestos (like that served by Chef Nicola Allegretta of Mama’s Meatball in San Luis Obispo in his linguini with sautéed wild Mexican shrimp) as well as unique takes on this Italian standard. We saw pestos from cashews (with pork belly at Miró), chestnuts (with pappardelle and wild mushrooms at Villa Creek), and from Chef Greg Murphy at Seagrass in Santa Barbara, a pistachio pesto was just one of the ways that nut was incorporated throughout the Pan-Seared Pacific Halibut with Napa Cabbage Roulade. And proving that pesto is not always about basil, nor is it always vibrant green, Chef Richard Wirz served handmade tagliatelle with Dungeness crab and Ridgeback prawns with a parsley, almond, and pine nut pesto (shown).

DerivativesA good secret ingredient provides the opportunity to use altered forms of the original product, and with nuts, this included flours, oils and milks. Tim Kilcoyne’s duck confit was made with half walnut oil and half duck fat, which one judge called a “brilliant use and incorporation of walnut oil.”

Chef Kelly Wangard from the Paso Robles Inn Steakhouse used almond milk for her crème brûlée, which was served with one of the most amazing new ingredients from the competition: preserved rose petals. Kirk Sowell also used nut milk in his Crunchy Almond Dumplings in Almond Milk Green Curry (shown).

Handmade Tagliatelle, Local Dungeness Crab, Local Ridgeback Prawns, Sicilian Flat Leaf Parsley, Almond and Pine Nut Pesto

CHEF RICHARD WIRZPalazzo Giuseppe, San Luis Obispo

PB&J of Foie Gras, Peanut Brioche, Quince Jam, Bliss Maple Syrup, Peanut Dust

CHEF JENSEN LORENZENCass House, Cayucos

Crunchy Almond Dumplings in Almond Milk Green Curry

CHEF KIRK SOWELLFrankie and Lola’s Front Street Café

FOR OUR FAVORITE RECIPES FROM THE COMPETITION, GO TO CENTRALCOASTMAG.COM

50

PARTICIPATING CHEFS

NICOLA ALLEGRETTAMama’s Meatball570 Higuera St., SLOmamasmeatball.com

MARK AYERSPacific’s Edge Restaurant120 Highlands Dr., Carmelpacificsedge.com

ANDY BROOKSBrooks545 E. Thompson, Venturarestaurantbrooks.com

BRIAN CHRISTIANSENStokes Restaurant & Bar500 Hartnell St., Montereystokesrestaurant.com

TOM FUNDAROVilla Creek1144 Pine St., Paso Roblesvillacreek.com

JUSTIN GABBERTNovo Restaurant & Lounge726 Higuera St., SLOnovorestaurant.com

TIM KILCOYNEThe Sidecar Restaurant3029 E. Main St., Venturathesidecarrestaurant.com

JENSEN LORENZENCass House Restaurant222 N. Ocean Ave., Cayucoscasshouseinn.com

DOUG MACMILLANRosa’s Italian Restaurant491 Price St., Pismo Beachrosasrestaurant.com

TORY MARTINDALEBella Vista at Four Seasons The Biltmore Santa Barbara1260 Channel Dr., SBfourseasons.com/santabarbara

DAVID MCWILLIAMThe Gardens of Avila at Sycamore Mineral Springs1215 Avila Beach Dr., SLOsycamoresprings.com

DAVID MILLERLevel 4 Restaurant & Lounge1216 Park St., Paso Robleslevel4speakeasy.com

GREG MURPHYSeagrass Restaurant30 E. Ortega St., SBseagrassrestaurant.com

DAVID REARDONMiró at Bacara Resort & Spa8301 Hollister Ave., SBbacararesort.com

DEBORAH SCARBOROUGHBlack Cat Bistro1602 Main St., Cambriablackcatbistro.com

KIRK SOWELLFrankie & Lola’s Front St. Café1154 Front St., Morro Bay frankieandlolas.com

WILL TORRESDeborah’s Room at the JustInn11680 Chimney Rock Rd. Paso Roblesjustinwine.com

GREGG WANGARDMarisol at the Cliffs Resort2757 Shell Beach Rd. Pismo Beachcliffsresort.com

KELLY WANGARDPaso Robles Inn Steakhouse1103 Spring St., Paso Roblespasoroblesinn.com

SHAWN WASHBURNShawn’s on Main912 Main St., Morro Bayshawnsonmain.com

RICHARD WIRZPalazzo Giuseppe1010 Court St., SLOgiuseppesrestaurant.com

PHO

TO B

Y S

HEL

LY V

INS

ON

Want more delicious details? Visit centralcoastmag.com to peruse menus from each of our Ultimate Chef competitors, and find recipes of their top-scoring dishes.

ANNE VIDOR, Editorial Director, Central Coast Magazine

KRISTIN GILLESPIE, Managing Editor, Central Coast Magazine

EVAN TREADWELL, Executive Chef, Lido Restaurant at Dolphin Bay Resort and Spa, 2008 Ultimate Chef Central Coast

KATHY MARCKS HARDESTY, Freelance Food and Wine Writer,Central Coast Magazine, New Times

PHILLIP RICCOMINI, Culinary Arts Instructor, Cuesta College and Paso Robles High School

JEFF OLSSON, Chef/Owner, New West Catering

TONY BAKER, Chef/Partner, Montrio Bistro

RYAN SWARTHOUT, Executive Chef, Summerwood Inn and Winery

PAMELA TREADWELL, Food and Beverage Industry Professional/Hospitality Consultant

THE JUDGES

March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 1

getawaysKRISTIN GILLESPIE

G azing upon the sweeping, 120-

acre landscape of the Huntington

Botanical Gardens, located in the

exclusive Pasadena-adjacent town of San

Marino, it seems impossible that the towering

skyscrapers and honking horns of downtown

Los Angeles lie a mere 12 miles south. Yet, an

informed visitor will recognize that the dense

population and development that define

Southern California can be largely attributed to

the garden’s founder, 19th century railroad and

real estate magnate Henry E. Huntington.

Though he was without question a man of

vision, Henry Huntington could hardly have

imagined that the Huntington Library, Art

Collections, and Gardens—a 207-acre site

donated from his family’s 600-acre estate

in 1919—would one day attract half a million

visitors annually. But he might not have been

surprised to learn that the gardens he began

to develop in 1903 would continue to evolve

well into the next millennium, most recently

exemplified by the opening of the majestic

Garden of Flowing Fragrance in February.

Rooted in the fertile soil of the past, yet

continually growing toward the future, the

Huntington Botanical Gardens are as tranquil as

they are inspiring. A few-hours-drive is all that

separates Central Coast horticulture fanatics

from this international tourist destination. »

Botanical Gardens

China’s continuous tradition of garden design is the oldest in the world, artistically combining architecture, paintings and furniture, poetic and historical references, and symbolic choices of plants and their placement. Here, the Pavilion of the Three Friends is adorned with carvings referring to the traditional “three friends of

winter” in Chinese culture—bamboo, pine, and plum blossoms—and is situated near a grove

where those three symbolic companions grow.

Hand-painted scroll by Liu Fang Yuan bearing the name of the new Chinese Garden at the

Huntington: The Garden of Flowing Fragrance.

HUNTINGTONthe

PHOT

OS C

OURT

ESY

THE

HUNT

INGT

ON

March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 3

getaways

2 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE March 2008

La Rose Impériale: The Development of Modern Roses

February 9 – April 28, 2008

Presented in conjunction with the 100th anniversary of the Rose Garden, this exhibition explores the story of Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoléon Bonaparte, and her influence over the development of modern roses. The imperial allure and popularity attributed to her collections accelerated the development of new hybrids in the late 18th century as she relentlessly sought new varieties for the gardens of her estate, Château Malmaison. The Huntington’s collections of rare botanical books, including a first edition of Les Roses, the great three-volume work based on a series of paintings commissioned by Joséphine to immortalize her roses, and other beautifully illustrated works will be on display as part of the year-long centennial celebration.

Garden is the Huntington’s most ambitious effort

to recreate the physical features of a landscape,

as well as its more intangible atmospheric

qualities that inspire visitors to linger.

Admission to the Huntington includes access

to four art galleries that showcase magnificent

collections of paintings, sculptures, and decorative

art. The most famous pieces include two 18th

century British paintings: Thomas Gainsborough’s

The Blue Boy, and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie.

Visitors are also welcome to view exhibits of

rare books and manuscripts at the Huntington

Library, though use of these priceless materials

is restricted to qualified scholars. All visitors,

however, are welcome to enjoy a much-deserved

respite in the charming Rose Garden Tea Room,

where hot tea, fresh scones, and an inviting buffet

of finger sandwiches, salads, and desserts await

the weary, yet content, garden explorer.

The Rose Garden Tea Room is set amidst 3.5 acres of roses, in peak bloom from late April through early June.

The magical, thought-provoking surroundings in the Children’s Garden encourage intellectual and physical engagement with the garden at a scale and level just right for youngsters.

The Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino(626) 405-2100; www.huntington.org

Admission: $15 – $20 Hours: M/W/Th/F: 12 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.Sat/Sun: 10:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.Closed Tuesdays

Rosa indica cruenta, from Pierre-Joseph Redouté’s Les Roses, 1817 – 24.

Photo courtesy The Huntington Library

getaways

With over a dozen specialty

gardens, the Huntington transports

visitors through a broad array of

landscapes linked together via sprawling lawns

and meandering paths. Walking shoes, sun

protection, and a bottle of water will ensure a

comfortable and rewarding journey.

The Desert Garden is the Huntington’s

signature conservation collection, containing

one of the largest and oldest assemblages of

cacti and other succulents in the world, while

the Japanese Garden offers an awe-inspiring

yet calming retreat from the demands of daily

life. Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year,

the Rose Garden showcases the history of the

rose from the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and

Romans up through the present day. And with

five stone bridges, a canyon waterfall, and

a 1.5-acre lake, the newly opened Chinese

A Walk to RememberThe elegant, hand-carved Jade Ribbon Bridge leads to the Isle of Alighting Geese at the serene center of the lake. Intended for strolling, contemplation, and social gathering, this garden celebrates the Suzhou style which inspired it.

In the Desert Garden, staff and volunteers work to ensure the propagation, conservation, and distribution of holdings that are rare, endangered, or of significant historic, scientific, or economic value.

The four spectacular acres of the Lily Pond Garden are home to koi, turtles, and aquatic plants.

March 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 5

getaways

4 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE March 2008

Tuesday through Saturday. For breakfast, lunch, or a more casual dinner, the poolside restaurant The Terrace is a superb choice. Both of these restaurants offer creative menus, top-notch service, and extensive wine lists that will make you glad you decided to forgo a drive into town. After dinner, enjoy fireside cocktails and —on Friday and Saturday nights—live music in The Bar, where the plush seating and cozy wood-paneling will make unwinding a breeze.

When it’s time for bed, you will discover that the guestrooms at the Langham are as distinctively and beautifully appointed as the rest of the hotel. A spacious bathroom designed in full Italian marble, a heavenly bed layered in luxurious linens, and a breathtaking view of the property and the San Gabriel Mountains make for a truly peaceful and pampered stay. For the ultimate in indulgence, book a room on one of the hotel’s two Club Floors (7th and

8th) where guests are given keyed access to the private Club Lounge. The lounge offers personal concierge service and five amazing food and beverage presentations throughout the day, beginning at breakfast and concluding with chocolates and cordials in the evening.

http://pasadena.langhamhotels.com

Just two miles from the Huntington Botanical Gardens, perched on a knoll

along the San Gabriel Mountain foothills, sits a landmark hotel that is a masterpiece of Pasadena’s rich history as a tourist center and winter escape for the wealthy. This stylish resort has undergone extensive renovation during its 100-year history, including being virtually rebuilt for seismic stability in the 1990s. Today, in its most recent incarnation as the newest member of international

luxury boutique hotel collection, Langham, the Huntington Hotel & Spa retains the serene elegance that made this the premiere destination for celebrities and literati in Henry Huntington’s heyday.

For Central Coast travelers seeking a gardener’s getaway, there is no finer place to rest and recharge. Stroll along the paths lining the resort’s 23 gorgeously landscaped acres, enjoy afternoon tea in the warm atmosphere of The Lobby

Lounge, or soak up the luxurious amenities in the award-winning Huntington Spa; the Langham delights all of the senses, making it impossible to remember whatever traffic you may have encountered on your drive south.

Hungry hotel guests can keep the tranquility flowing by dining on the premises. Awarded a Michelin Star in November of 2007, The Dining Room at the Langham, overseen by celebrated Chef de Cuisine Craig Strong, serves dinner

A Room with a View: The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa

PHOT

OS C

OURT

ESY

THE

LANG

HAM

More to Explore In the picturesque town of San Marino, the charming Julienne is a local favorite for breakfast or lunch. If it’s a weekend or holiday you’re likely to wait, but that will just allow you a little time to explore the adjacent gourmet market. Once seated, if you like bread pudding, try the Baked Crème Brûlée French Toast with Fresh Strawberry Sauce and Crème Anglaise; for more savory fare, the Parmesan Crusted Potato Cake with Poached Eggs, Guacamole, and Pico de Gallo is sure to satisfy.

Closed Sundays.2651 Mission St., San Marinowww.juliennetogo.com

Pasadena is rich in architectural heritage, which can be explored on foot or by bicycle (rentals available at the Huntington Spa). The Convention and Visitors Bureau has assembled 10 Architectural Tours highlighting a diversity of landmarks dating from the late 1880s. An outstanding example of American Arts and Crafts style architecture, the Gamble House (of Proctor and Gamble) is celebrating its centennial. Open for public tours Thursday through Sunday.

www.pasadenacal.comwww.gamblehouse.org

A visit to this region would not be complete without an evening at the Pasadena Playhouse, where familiar faces from the small and big screen take the stage in a mix of traditional and cutting-edge productions. This season’s shows range from a musical version of the film Mask to John Steinbeck’s Of Mice and Men. Buy tickets in advance, as shows sell out.

www.pasadenaplayhouse.org

getaways

May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 1

FOOD & WINE

In each issue of CCM, we highlight a local farmer and a seasonal food with recipe suggestions to inspire new ways to

incorporate that food—be it beet or berry—into your diet. As part of this effort to encourage support for our farmers,

manufacturers, and independent and farmer’s markets, we annually bring you a piece devoted to lavishing love on our local

producers. This year, we decided to celebrate our homegrown, homemade delights in the best way we know how: we threw

a party! As you can see, whether you’re planning a casual summer gathering with croquet, chilled beers, and all the salty,

savory fi xin’s, or a fancy wine-themed fête with perfectly paired snacks—producers of the Central Coast will outfi t you with

all the ingredients for a get together made, here, in paradise.

LOCAL PARTY FLAVORS

So, go ahead, party like a locavore!»

2 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE May 2008 May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 3

Oils of Paicines: Extra Virgin Olive Oil

A small, family-run operation in San Benito County started by two physicians, Jerry Ginsberg and Barbara Rever, Oils of Paicines uses Certifi ed Organic Mission olives for their award-winning extra virgin oil. The delicious, buttery oil has hints of fruitiness, making it a fl avorful dip with bread or a versatile cooking companion. It can be found at independent markets like New Frontiers, Spencer’s, and Lassen’s, or online at www.oilsofpaicines.com.

Future Fine Foods Olive BreadSanta Barbara’s Future Fine Foods started as a line of specialty foods in 1990; now, the company bakes fresh, gourmet and ethnic breads and bagels with superior ingredients for retailers and restaurants from L.A. to San Luis Obispo. We found their handcrafted Future Olive Bread—an ancient Ottoman recipe, embedded with Italian olives and herbs—to be simply scrumptious. Look for it and other gourmet loaves in New Frontiers, Lazy Acres, and other fi ne markets. 2613 De La Vina St., Santa Barbara; (805) 569-9244; www.futurefi nefoods.com

Los Olivos Grocery: 12-year Italian Fig Balsamic VinegarIf you’ve been to Los Olivos Grocery, you know what a whirlwind of delectable delicacies you’ll encounter down each and every aisle; but, next time you’re in, don’t pass up their singular 12-year Italian Fig Balsamic Vinegar. In a tall bottle, labeled simply with the market’s logo, this luscious concoction (made exclusively for them by Vision Pack in Buellton) transforms mere bread into an elegant hors d’oeuvre. 2621 Hwy. 154, Santa Ynez; (805) 688-5115; www.losolivosgrocery.com

Allocco’s Italian Bakery: TaralliThe concept of Taralli is not an easy one for Americans to digest. Defi ned as gourmet Italian pretzels, the ring-shaped curiosities are really much more like crackers. Owner Phyllis Simeone says in Italy, people used to dunk the crunchy, savory crackers in wine. You might be more inclined to serve these snacks with tapenade, cheese, or all by themselves. Look for them in nine different fl avors at Crushed Grape, De Palo & Sons, at farmer’s markets, or, of course, at Allocco’s Italian Bakery. And don’t try to fi nd other brands—Phyllis claims they’re the only ones under the western U.S. sun! 1602 Main St., Cambria; (805) 927-1501; www.alloccos.com

Paso Robles K’ulinary Gourmet Spreads: Olive Antipasto

Chef Claude Chazalon and his wife Chrystel, formerly of Paris restaurant in Paso Robles, again offer their culinary genius to Central Coast foodies with a line of authentic French, premium tapenades. Soon to reintroduce their delicious ratatouille, they currently sell an Olive Antipasto and both Black Olive and Black & Green Olive Tapenade. These savory spreads are perfect for breads and crackers and also go well with salad, pasta, and meat. Find their products at We Olive, Pasolivo, Verena’s Go Gourmet, and many local wineries. (805) 227-4082 http://pasocatering.com

Dr. Tedone’s Fresh New York Style MozzarellaWe had to wait in line behind a strand of locals in Shell Beach who daily race to De Palo & Sons market for Dr. Tedone’s freshly made, mouthwatering mozzarella. Dr. Louis Tedone, father-in-law of the market’s owner, brought his craft from his childhood family grocery in New York and makes two to four fresh batches daily and up to 500 pounds per week for De Palo’s eager cheese fans. Delicious on its own, with oil and vinegar, or cooked up in pizza and lasagna, this mozzarella is best consumed within 24 hours—if you can wait that long! 2665 Shell Beach Rd., Shell Beach; (805) 773-1589; www.depaloandsons.com

food & wine

WIN

E P

AR

TY

INGREDIENTS FOR A SOPHISTICATED WINE PARTY: Local wine of your choice paired with snacks made to complement and enhance: bread, olive oil, vinegar, tapenade, cheese, and crackers.

4 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE May 2008 May 2008 CENTRAL COAST MAGAZINE 5

Firestone Walker Brewing Company: Union Jack IPA

Begun in 1996 by brothers-in-law Adam Firestone and David Walker, and led to brilliant success by Brewmaster Matt Brynildson—Paso Robles’ own Firestone Walker Brewing Company is recognized as one of the top breweries in the world. The newest addition to their House of Ales—which includes the well-established Double Barrel Ale and Pale 31—is the Union Jack. An India Pale Ale style beer with bright, citrus notes, the refreshing Union Jack certainly lives up to its elder ales and deftly quenched our palates after all the salty snacks we enjoyed with it. Try their ales at the brewery in Paso Robles, the Taproom in Buellton, or fi nd the cleverly packaged bottles at stores all over California. www.fi restonewalker.com

Ted’s Pistachios and AlmondsTed Stebbins’ nut company, based in Arroyo Grande with roasting facilities in the Central Valley, provides quality pistachios to many Central Coast markets including JJ’s, Albertsons, and OSH. These premium nuts would pair perfectly with either beer or wine depending on the type of nut you choose. We snagged his smoky, spicy, and superb chili lemon pistachios and his salted almonds to kick start our beer bash, and they certainly did the job. 2821 Northview Ave., Arroyo Grande; (805) 474-8617

Taco Works Tortilla ChipsTaco Works tortilla chips are a staple of many Central Coasters’ diets. Run by Therese and Ty Bayly since 1979, this “little tortilla chip factory” pumps out some fi nger-licking good seasoned chips in several spice varieties. Our favorite, though, is the “Montaña de Oro” variety—lightly crispy, not too salty, and a perfect party starter. Serve with Taco Works medium salsa, or try Red Hot Foods’ salsas to add a real kick. Available at De Palo & Sons, Spencer’s, Scolari’s, and most grocery stores in San Luis Obispo County.3424 Sacramento Dr., San Luis Obispo; (805) 541-1556

Red Hot Foods: El Scorcho SalsaEstablished in 1995 in Oxnard by Butch and Burma Baselice, Red Hot Foods now operates out of Santa Paula, producing over 80 spicy sauces and condiments for retail and wholesale. Find their fi ery retail recipes at farmer’s markets in Ojai and Camarillo, or look for their name at the Oxnard Salsa Festival. We found their Channel Islands chipotle and El Scorcho salsa to be particularly hot and tasty, while the milder artichoke sauce was savory and safe for more sensitive taste buds.(805) 258-3650

We Olive: Green Olive and Lemon Mustard Gary and DeeDee Brown began We Olive in Paso Robles in 2003 and now offer the fi nest local and imported artisan oils, dips, vinegars, and more from locations in Fresno, Riverside, and San Luis Obispo (with more soon to come across the nation). Their Green Olive and Lemon Mustard was an interesting and delightful alternative to your average honey or Dijon, and could have gone as well with Allocco’s Taralli as with Cattaneo Bros.’ sausages. www.weolive.com

Cattaneo Bros.: Portuguese Linguica Sausage

Now celebrating 60 years of savory beef jerky and European style sausages, Cattaneo Bros. in San Luis Obispo also offers nuts, dried fruit, beef sticks, candy, and more—making it the ideal source for essential party snacks. We found their sizzling Spicy Caballero and surprisingly sweet Portuguese Linguica sausage to pair perfectly with both Firestone and We Olive’s mustards; but, they also make a great addition to appetizer sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. Look for Cattaneo goods at their factory and at JJ’s, Scolari’s, Los Olivos Grocery, and many other markets. 769 Caudill St., San Luis Obispo; www.cattaneobros.com

food & wine

A BE

ER B

ASH

INGREDIENTS FOR A SUCCESSFUL BEER BASH: Quality local beer served with fi nger-lickin’-good snacks like chips and fi ery salsa, pistachios, and sausage with mustard.