cf68 bifold door installation guide - aluminium...
TRANSCRIPT
CF68 Bifold Door Installation Guide Recomended Tools Large Spirit level/ Laser Level
Tape measure
Cordless Drill
Selection of HSS & Masonry drill bits
Power/SDS Hammer Drill
5mm Allen Key
Nylon non marking hammer/mallet
Glazing paddle/wedge
Work Benches/Trestles
Contents -‐ Check That The Delivery Is Complete A standard Door will have some or all of the following list depending on your requirements:-‐
Outer Frame -‐ (1 per door -‐ sometimes these are unassembled/kit form)
Door/Vent Panels (number of doors depending on your requirements)
Glass Units -‐ (These are separate from the Door/Vent Frames)
Projecting Cill -‐ (1 per door depending on your requirements)
Projecting Cill End Caps (1 pair per cill)
Hinge Pins -‐ Large & small
Bogey Top Guide
Bogey Bottom Wheels
Panel Catch
Should any of these Items be missing or damaged please email us within 24 hours of delivery at:-‐-‐ [email protected]
Step 1 -‐ Outer Frame
Carefully unpack the outer frame taking special care not to make contact with the coated finish if using a knife or blade.
The Outer Frame will be delivered in pre-‐prepared "Kit Form" with coloured labels showing which pieces go together for simple assembly on site as below:-‐
NOTE -‐ The gasket pieces shown above require silicone seal to make frame watertight, failure to adequately seal could result in a frame that isn't watertight.
STEP 2 -‐ Aperture preparation/check
Once assembled, it is advisable to check the outer frame size and compare it to your aperture.
You should have a difference between frame size and aperture to allow for a suitable fitting tolerance of a minimum 5mm around all sides.
Checking the size of the aperture will also guide you as to what amount of packing may be required to get the outer frame square and plumb (vertically level)
If no projecting Cill has been ordered/supplied it is highly advisable to install a DPM or membrane tray to create a suitable barrier against ingress, below is a suggestive detail that can be discussed/approved with the architect or builder:-‐
If a Projecting Cill is supplied, silicone seal around perimeter edge and screw Cill end caps on each end with screws provided:-‐
STEP 3 -‐ Frame preparation
Next, attach the cill (if supplied) to the bottom of the outer frame
NOTE -‐ the bottom of the outer frame is easily identified by the 2 stainless steel track rails, and, if rebated threshold and doors open IN the large face of profile will be on outside, or, doors open OUT, large face of profile will be on inside.
To attach cill, drill clearance holes though underside of cill @ 200mm from each end and maximum 600mm centres to suit for your fixing screw (recommended 4.8 x 40mm cap head self cutting baypole type screw) making sure not to come up through the threshold profile:-‐
The simplest method of fixing the frame to the substrate is using the supplied 'twist fit' fixing straps as shown below (these can be cut down in length to suit but must have min 40mm in contact with substrate , it is recommended to attach straps at the height of each hinge and locking points:-‐
Used suitable centres as shown below:-‐
Next, place the outer frame/cill combination in the aperture and pack level at no more than 400mm centres to give the outer frame a solid level starting point:-‐
NOTE -‐ The bottom of the outer frame/cill must sit on, or be supportively packed directly under vertical jamb sections and at intervals no more than 400mm, on a suitable level and supportive substrate material (brick, block, stone, concrete, treated timber or steel) to avoid movement under the weight of the doors
'Wedges' could be used to temporarily hold the outer frame in position whilst setting plumb and level:-‐
STEP 4 -‐ Frame Checking/Fixing
Once your outer frame is packed/wedged to hold securely in the aperture prior to final fixing, it is advisable to check the dimensions of the frame, (if the dimensions are not consistent, rectification will be required)
Check the plumb and level of the outer frame using a laser line if available or suitable long spirit level, (if not level, rectification will be required)
Check the diagonals of the outer frame, (if the dimensions are not consistent, rectification will be required)
Once the outer frame is level, plumb and square, you can now fix it to the substrate by drilling pilot holes to suit your chosen fixings:-‐
STEP 5 -‐ Attaching door vents:-‐
Each door vent will have a coloured label attached that corresponds to a matching coloured label attached to the outer frame showing the position of each panel to be fitted:-‐
Start by sourcing the door vent that corresponds with the coloured label that denotes the end of frame that folding doors stack against:-‐
Note:-‐ the hinges have been factory attached to the door vent
Align the vent hinges with the pre-‐attached outer frame hinge plates and attach all hinges using the screws supplied:-‐
2 x M4 machine screws
2 x Self tappers
1 x Grub screw
TOP:-‐
MIDDLE (could be either way) so best to try top hole and then alternate fixing type:-‐
BOTTOM (opposite to top):-‐
Once hinges are suitably affixed, glue the pre-‐formed gasket hinge covers at the points shown below so they align with gasket above and
below:-‐
Repeat all of the above to attach 2nd vent to 1st vent:-‐
Next, slide the BOTTOM ROLLER along the bottom track towards 2nd vent and TOP ROLLER in through the top track cut outs and along the top track towards the 2nd vent:-‐
Proceed to add the next Doors/Vents in the sequence and repeat the hinge fixing steps with appropriate screws and gasket hinge covers.
STEP 6 -‐ GLAZING
To correctly glaze each door sash, the process of 'Toe & Healing' described below, basically transfers the weight or load of the glass unit back towards the hinge or roller bearing side nearest to the outer frame.
As you will see from guide, wherever the door stays nearest to frame, the packers will be at the bottom corner (Shown BLUE), wherever the door folds away from frame, the packers will be at the opposite top corner (Shown RED)
Remove beads by pushing towards glass, (mark beads left, Right, top, bottom for reference and re-‐positioning later) As standard, on CF68 doors, it is best to place 2 x Blue packers at each point shown on diagram above = 8 packers per door sash, 2 x sets of 2 at bottom corner, 2 x sets of 2 opposite top corner. Silicone the first packer in place then silicone another on top creating 10mm of packing on bottom, side, top & topside.
The next step is to place correct sized piece of glass into door sash and temporarily click in the top and bottom bead in the sides to hold unit in while leaving hands free to carry with glazing procedure (a packer between glass & bead helps).
Once you have the glass held in postion, using a Glazing Paddle (as shown) or similar wedge shaped implement, Insert wedge between glass and door vent, Insert 1x Blue glazing packer in the gap between glass unit and existing packer Repeat the process at top of door vent.
Measure diagonals of door as below, if the sash is now square the measurements should be within 2mm, if not, you may need to repeat above steps but with slimmer packer/s until diagonals are equal
Once you are happy that the sash IS square and level, it requires packing both opposite sides (as shown below) to stop the unit moving during operation
OR
Once the sash is finally packed, the bead marked 'TOP', can now be replaced and clicked in to the bead channel at the top by tipping towards glass then pulling forward, repeat this with bottom, left and right beads.
Once Beaded, the gasket needs to be put in gap between glass unit and bead, to do this take end of gasket as shown with coloured line (colour depends on glazing thickness) facing you and serrated edge facing gap to be filled, start at any corner, push glass towards outside of door to compress it against the external gasket (this can be done with a glazing shovel or wedge, and makes the space bigger between glass and bead to recieve the gasket)
Push the gasket flat against the glass -‐ it will compress making it flatter, then push the gasket into the gap making sure it goes tight up to adjacent bead. From here move down the gasket pushing into gap (a spray bottle of diluted washing up liqiud can help if difficult) Always push the gasket towards the starting point to avoid stretching (if stretched, the gasket will in time shrink back to original size, therefore making short and leaving gaps) Once you reach the opposite corner, add 1" extra and push last section of gasket into position and run back along gasket lentgh to make sure evenly flat, you should now have full length of gasket tight from bead to bead. Repeat this process for all 4 sides of door sash. Gaskets should end up with a nice tight finish in each corner.
STEP 7 -‐ Locking and set up
Now that the doors are correctly glazed, diagonally square, beaded and gasketed, shoot bolt recievers need attaching to the outer frame relevant to the shoot bolt position on the door vents.
Close the appropriate door, turn the handle to extend the shootbolt then pencil mark (for easy removal) the position of the top and bottom shootbolt:-‐
Now release the handle, open the door/s and attach the shootbolt recievers to align with your mark, using screws provided:-‐
It is now time to check the final door locking, close and lock each door, finishing with the traffic or pass door last.
If any door doesn't lock positively, it is advisable to check:-‐
1, The diagonals of each door and rectify.
2, The doors heights relative to outer frame
If the doors do not seem consistently level within the outer frame, it is beneficial to run a spirit level across the top of each door vent. If any door vents are not level, adjustment up or down of the bottom roller hinge/s may be required using a 5mm Allen key:-‐
Julian Hall� 23/12/14 10:22Deleted: again
If the last door seems to over reach or not reach the locking receivers, it may be that the span of all the doors needs increasing or decreasing, this can be done using the 6 x adjusters behind the expansion profile. The adjusters and expansion profile are pre-‐attached between the outer frame at the last of the stacking door vents:-‐
By inserting a 5mm Allen key and turnung clockwise/anti-‐clockwise, the expansion profile will move in or out increasing or decreasing the span of the door vents
Once adjusted and the doors are locking satisfactorily, long screws (supplied) need driving through pre-‐drilled holes to lock of all 6 x adjusters and stop future movement of the expansion profile:-‐
STEP 8 -‐ Door Vent Retaining Clips
These should be fitted to the Doors Vents to aid proper opening and closing of the Bifold Door set.
The male and female parts are fitted on opposing panels so that when the opposing Door/Vent panels are opened, the catch latches and holds them together preventing swinging of individual Door Panels and potential damage.
NOTE -‐ Panel Catches should always be fitted to:-‐
OUTSIDE of OPEN OUT Doors
INSIDE of OPEN IN Doors
Julian Hall� 23/12/14 11:26Deleted: OOR VENT CATCHES