chap 14 -bustle & 90s

c. 1870 - 1900

THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND THE NINETIES

C H A P T E R F O U R T E E N

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THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND THE NINETIESc. 1870 - 1900

From 1870 to 1890 was named after the bustle, the

predominant feature of women’s dresses.

The Bustle Period


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The way clothing was produced and sold began to change. Contributory to these changes were:

• Wide use of sewing machines• Development of sized paper

patterns• Technology allowing the

cutting of many garment pieces at the same time.

“Circular knife (Wolf type A) was patented in 1888 and cut

one thickness of cloth.”1

“Wolf Model 2279 used a thin vertical blade action to cut

three thicknesses of cloth.”2


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At the same time, the influx of immigrants provided workers and consumers for the clothing industry.


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Department stores and mail order catalogs provided new ways of selling clothing.


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The undergarments worn to support the new silhouette of the 1870’s continued to include many of the same elements as in

previous periods:• Underdrawers• Chemise• Corset• Corset Cover

Click to toggle image.


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An alternative for underwear became available, the combination, which combined drawers and chemise into one

garment.


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The new element was the bustle, a structure to support a skirt with a full back.

1869 -1875

1873 1876 1886

Visit Farthingales for a discussion on bustle shape

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/bustle_comparison.htm

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/bustle_comparison.htm


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In the twenty years that bustles were in fashion, three different shapes of bustles were worn.


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The earliest bustles, c. 1870-1878, created by manipulating the full skirt in a waterfall-like effect, often with a train.


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Called a sheath or cuirass bodice, the second bustle type, c. 1878-1883, dropped fullness to below the back of the knees.


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The final bustle type, c. 1883 – 1890, was rigid and shelf-like and rarely had a train.

Click image to Enlarge

X


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With the fullness concentrated at the back, outdoor garments had to be cut to accommodate the skirt.


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About 1990 the bustle lost its prominence, the only reminder was a small group of pleats at the back of the skirt.

The Nineties


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As back fullness diminished sleeves grew larger, skirts more circular and an hour-glass shape silhouette came into fashion.

Click image to rotate 360°


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Even two piece “tailor-made” suits for women had the popular leg-of-mutton

sleeves.


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Now the outdoor garments had to accommodate the large sleeves.


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Women began working in factories and offices in ever larger numbers.


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The availability of ready-made blouses called shirtwaists made a shirtwaist and skirt the ideal dress for work.


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Throughout the 19th Century women had begun to take part in

more sports. A craze for bicycling in the 1890’s

contributed to the return of bloomers for women.


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The Aesthetic Movement in the arts encouraged a

rejection of the current bustle fashions in favor of what its

proponents called a “Medieval” look.


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Art Nouveau design motifs appeared in jewelry, as patterns in textiles, and were reflected in the s-shape curves of garments at

the turn of the Century…


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Hair and Headdress

c. 1880’s c. 1890’s c. 1880’s c. 1870’s

c. 1899 - 1900 French Floral Toque c.1890 Gray Velvet Toque 1880's Black Straw Bonnet


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Footwear


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Additional Accessories

Gloves Capelet

Mourning BroochParasol Watch Glasses

Fan


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While the rapid changes in women’s clothing styles were readily

apparent, changes in men’s clothing from 1870

to 1900 were more subtle.


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Men, too could wear combinations or union suits.


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Men could choose from more types of jackets. Generally the type of jacket worn was related

to the formality of the occasion.


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An innovation in evening wear was the tuxedo, made with a sack jacket and first worn in the 1880’s.


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For golf and other sports activities, knickers were worn.


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The basic styles, such as the Chesterfield and frock coats, changed little, but lengths varied. More exotic styles included

the Inverness and the Ulster.


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Hair and Headdress

Derby Top Hats Fedora Straw Boater


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Footwear

Oxfords Tennis Shoes

Balmorals

Congress Boot Bicycle balmorals


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Additional Accessories

Collars

Ties and Ascots Gloves

Pince Nez

Walking Sticks


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Bustles appeared in the dresses of young girls as

well as adult women.


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Little boys still wore skirts, then graduated to any of several types of suits.


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The popularity of a children’s book, Little Lord Fauntleroy, led mothers to dress their sons in costumes similar to those of the

book’s hero.


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Throughout Victoria’s reign emphasis on

propriety and custom was strong. Emphasis

on a strict code for mourning dress was one example. As the century ended, Victoria’s reign was coming to end, and

so were the strict customs that regulated the mourning dress that would be put on at her

death.


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For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of

images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org

/collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute

www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC

http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http://

char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

19th Century Shoeshttp://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm

http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm

http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html

http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/

http://www.camrax.com/

http://www.camrax.com/

http://www.mcny.org/collections

http://www.mcny.org/collections

http://www.philamuseum.org/

http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp

http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm

http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html

http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html

http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm

http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm


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For Further Study

Veblen’s Theory Of The Leisure Classeshttp://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/pembfun/vebleis7.html

Bustleshttp://www.fashion-era.com/bustles.htm#Bustles

Art Nouveauhttp://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/artnouveau.html http://www.artelino.com/articles/art_nouveau.asp

Aesthetic Dresshttp://www.gbacg.org/aesthetic_dress_inspirations.htm http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/object5_1.html

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New

York: Drama Book Specialists.Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts

Books.Waugh, N. 1994. The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930. New York: Theater

Arts Books.

http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/pembfun/vebleis7.html

http://www.fashion-era.com/bustles.htm#Bustles

http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/artnouveau.html

http://www.artelino.com/articles/art_nouveau.asp

http://www.gbacg.org/aesthetic_dress_inspirations.htm

http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/object5_1.html

http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/object5_1.html


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Image Credits

Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ].Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ].Various images, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].Various dress images, courtesy of [ www.antique-fashion.com ].Image of 1890's Butterick Pattern. Ladies' nine gored flare skirt, in round, clearing or shorter length, courtesy of, [http://www.vintagemartini.com].Various Hat Images, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ].Image of Wolf Cutting Equipment, courtesy of [http://www.moah.org/exhibits/archives/stitches/tech.html].Image of Woman with bustle, by Hall, [http://mywebpages.comcast.net/saretzky].Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ].Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;

http://www.vintagemartini.com/patterns/victorian/pages/1247.html

http://www.vintagemartini.com/patterns/victorian/pages/1247.html

chap 14 -bustle & 90s

Lifestyle