chapter 12 trim and component policies
TRANSCRIPT
Chapter 12
Trim and Component Policies (Apparel)
I. Trim and Component Policy ................................................................................................................ 2
II. Accessory, Trim and Component Guidelines .................................................................................... 2
III. Nominated Vendors Contact Details ................................................................................................ 10
a. Zippers - Plastic/Injection Moulded /Coil/Metal/Spiral/Nylon/Invisible/Jeans Zippers ..... 10 c. Metal Notions (Poppers, Eyelets, Snap Buttons, Rivets, Stud Buttons, etc.) ............................ 13 d. Pocketing ............................................................................................................................................ 13 e. Interlining............................................................................................................................................. 14 f. Shoulder Pads ..................................................................................................................................... 15
IV. Factory Trim and Component Inspection Process .......................................................................... 16
2
I. Trim and Component Policy
The trim and component policy ensures that the customers’ finished final product exceeds their
expectations, performs for the lifetime of the product, and eliminates any risk of
product failure.
The Restricted Substances List (RSL) applies to all Talbots’ products, including trims and
components. The RSL applies to tall materials, parts, chemicals and other goods supplied for use
in producing Talbots’ apparel, accessories and other products.
The RSL is an important part of Talbots’ product stewardship and environmental sustainability
programs. It must be shares with all suppliers of materials, parts, chemicals and other goods
supplied for use in producing Talbots’ apparel, accessories and other products.
As a supplier and vendor of Talbots’ products or raw materials for Talbots, you are required to
understand the RSL standards and deliver only compliant products.
II. Accessory, Trim and Component Guidelines
General
Accessories, Trims and Components must conform to Talbots Restricted Substances List Policy
and Procedure (RSL) in Chapter 8 of this guide
Each must pass attachment tests as per Talbots testing protocols
Each must be free from rough and sharp edges
All must be suitable for the aftercare instructions of the product i.e., washing, dry cleaning
and pressing
Nominated trims and components MUST ONLY be purchased from Talbots’ nominated trim
and component vendors unless preapproval has been authorized from Talbots
U.S. team
Nominated Trims that MUST be purchased from nominated vendors
Zippers Sewing Threads Interlinings
Metal Notions Pocketing Shoulder Pads
All other trims and components must be sourced from Talbots specified
vendors or locally, but all must conform to the requirements of this guide.
3
Each supplier and vendor is required to comply with the prohibitions, limitations and other
requirements described or referred to in the RSL. Talbots strongly encourages suppliers and
business partners to carefully review RSL information and remain updated on the latest
publications and legislation, i.e. California Proposition 65.
As a supplier and vendor of Talbots’ products or raw materials for Talbots, suppliers are required to
understand the RSL standards and deliver only compliant products.
The following list is comprehensive, but IS NOT DEFINITIVE and subject to change.
If you have queries or components that are not covered in this list, please contact Talbots or your local buying agent for guidance.
Product
Component
Trim
Requirement Method of Attachment Talbots Testing &Legislation
Compliance
Beads Must be free of sharp edges
Must not restrict stretch i.e. cuff, neck etc
Cast off a maximum of every 6 beads with
a maximum float length of ½ inch
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-003
Must conform to Talbots Restricted
Substances List Policy and
Procedure (RSL)
Belts Must be free from sharp edges
Eyelets on belts must be made of brass and clenched to a neat
smooth segmented rose finish. If rolled finish is required , then a
backing washer must be used
D Rings/ clasps must be free from rough edges
Belts must conform to Talbots RSL standards
Leather belts must conform to Talbots leather test and RSL
requirements
All edge paints and fillers must conform to Talbots RSL
Belt Loops – stapled belt loops are not allowed
Fabric belts must be cut in one piece
along the fabric grain
All stitching must be secured to prevent
run back
Stitching joins NOT allowed
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-006
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Buckles Must be free of sharp edges As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-002
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Buttons Must not be made from acrylic or polypropylene as these
materials do not withstand the pull test
Polyester and expoy are recommended as a substrates
Nylon may be used – providing no sharp injection points or
blemishes
“Metal “ effects can be used but must be tested for their
suitability to dry cleaning and washing
Real leather is allowed but must meet Talbots leather testing &
RSL requirements and be suitable to dry cleaning
All buttons must be suitable for the garment aftercare with
regard to washing, dry cleaning and pressing
Covered buttons, when using a metal back, the metal must be
non ferrous
All spare and non functional buttons are governed by the same
criteria
Real seashell buttons must be a minimum of 2mm thick
Machine lockstitch only with a minimum of
10 stitches. Chain stitch must NOT be used
Buttons must be attached to a even
foundation of either 2 piles of fabric or to 1
ply with reinforcement behind i.e.
interlining
All buttons used on woven bottoms,
outerwear and tailoring must be whipped
with ASCOLITE sewing thread and
appropriate ASCOLITE machine
A thread tension system must be in place
to ensure correct tension achieved after
bobbin change
All product that is factory washed must
have buttons attached after the washing
process
The first and last button from each spool
must be sewn onto spare fabric and
tested for pull strength
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-001
Must conform to Talbots RSL
5
Product
Component
Trim
Requirement Method of Attachment Talbots Testing &Legislation
Compliance
Drawcords
Must be secured at one point to prevent the draw cord being
removed from the garment
The ends of all cords must be secured to
prevent fraying in use for example by heat
sealing or stitching
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-007
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Embroideries,
Fusible Motifs,
Badges
Must be free from sharp edges
No float loops over ½ inch on the back of the embroidery
All embroidery backing must be fully removed
Any heavily embroidered/ appliqué or metallised yarn
embroidered products must used a fusible interlining as a
backing to prevent irritation to the wearers skin
All fusible motifs must be securely
attached using a fusing machine not by
hand iron
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Fillings and
Quilted Fillings
Manmade
Must be 100% polyester, produced using heat bonding methods
and low melt polyester
Resin treated filling is not acceptable
Use a heat bonded scrim on the outer edge of the filling to
prevent fibre migration
Natural
All loose “down and feather” filling must be bagged to prevent
fibre migration if the outer and/or lining fabric does not prevent
migration
All
Filling fibres, down and feather must not migrate through either
the lining or outer.
Seams must be adequate to ensure no
fibre migration
Seam allowance must be significant to
reduce seam failure and exposure of
fillings
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol – TBDF-001
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Hooks & Bar Must be free of sharp edges
Any hooks and bar set in a row of 2 or
more must use a mold that can attach all
simultaneously
Suitable backing must be used to ensure
the hooks and bars are firmly attached
and no impressioning is visible on right side
of garment
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-004
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Hooks & Eyes Must be free of sharp edges
Hand sewn or machine attached Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol - TBTR-004
Must conform to Talbots RSL
6
Product
Component
Trim
Requirement Method of Attachment Talbots Testing &Legislation
Compliance
Interlinings
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
All garment vendors are responsible for conducting ongoing
wash and pull tests throughout production
Signs of delamination, bubbling, strike-through and strike-back
should be noted and appropriate, corrective action taken
Must not be attached using a hand iron with
the exception of taping for tailoring
Must be applied per the interlining suppliers
guidelines
Follow Interlining SOP
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Eyelets
(Also See
Metal Notions)
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
Must be made from brass (steel cannot be used)
Must be free of rough edges
Roll setting eyelets must be used on all products (not split setting
eyelets)
Must be attached on an even foundation
and not on uncontrolled thickness (i.e. seam
turnings, stitching lines)
Must be attached using Talbots nominated
vendor machinery with compatible dies
Must comply to Talbots
Product Performance
Protocol - TBTR-004
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Leather Trims
Must conform to Talbots Leather testing protocols and Talbots
Restricted Substances List Policy and Procedure (RSL)
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Magnets A strong magnet can affect the performance of a pacemaker
or defibrillator, so strength must be determined as a minimum for
functionality
Must be non ferrous and nickel compliant
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Determine strength or
“Gauss” of the magnet and
ensure it is kept to a
minimum
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Metal
Components
(Clasps And
Snaffles, etc.)
Exposed edges must be smooth and free from irregularities
Must be free of sharp edges
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must comply to Talbots
Product Performance
Protocol - TBTR-004
Must conform to California
Proposition 65
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Metal Notions
(Snaps, Rivets,
Stud Buttons,
Snap Buttons
etc.)
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
Must be attached using nominated vendors moulds and
machinery
Garment factory engineers must receive training from
nominated vendor
All styles to have signed nominated vendor data sheets
All to have correct pinch settings and tested in house at hourly
intervals
For “Talbots” Branded Stud Buttons and rivets the nominated
vendor is Scovil
Machinery used must be automatic (never
use manual)
Must comply to Talbots
Product Performance
Protocol - TBTR-004
Must conform to Talbots RSL
7
Product
Component
Trim
Requirement Method of Attachment Talbots Testing &Legislation
Compliance
Ribbons,
braids etc
Must be secured at one point to prevent the ribbon, braid etc.
From being removed from the garment
The ends of all ribbons and braids must be
secured to prevent fraying in use (example:
heat sealing or double turned and stitched )
Must comply to Talbots
Product Performance
Protocol - TBTR-006
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Sequins Must be free of mould “flash” or rough edges
Must not restrict stretch i.e. cuff, neck etc
Hand Attached :
Thread – Staple Spun Polyester 27 Tex, Talbots
nominated source
Minimum of 4 stitches of double thread
If applied singly, double knot off after each
sequin
If applied in groups, knot off after every third
sequin with a maximum float length of ½ inch
Must comply to Talbots
Product Performance
Protocol - TBTR-003
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Sewing
Threads
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
See below thread type/size for use on different stitch types
SPI Requirements
o Internal seams 10-12 SPI(unless otherwise stated)
o Topstitch 8-10 SPI (unless otherwise stated)
Ascolite must be used for the shank wrapping of all woven
bottoms/jackets and outerwear, plus any other button types as
requested by the Talbots technologist
Nominated thread vendors and thread types as follows:
Thread Type Coats
brand
Amann
brand
Gunzetal
brand
Core
Spun Polyester (CSP) EPIC SABA
NUKOR
Staple Spun
Polyester (SSP) ASTRA
UNIVERSAL
/BELFIL
ZABRE
Blind
Stitch GRAL SERAFIL
MITON
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
8
Product
Component
Trim
Requirement Method of Attachment Talbots Testing &Legislation
Compliance
Shoulder Pads Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
Must be suitable for the garment aftercare with regard to
washing, dry cleaning and pressing
Must conform to Talbots Lather testing protocols and Talbots RSL
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Silicon Tapes Must be restricted phthalate free Where possible tape must be attached
so it does not come into contact with the
body (seam always turned back) or as
agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Toggles
All edges must be smooth and free from irregularities As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol TBTR-002
Pocketing
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol – TBFW-
011
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Velcro Velcro fastening used must have no sharp edges and all corners
must be trimmed
Avoid positioning of Velcro close to the face
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must conform to Talbots RSL
Zippers
Must be sourced from a Talbots nominated vendor
They must be free from rough and sharp edges
Only zipper supplier, made to length, zips must be used with pre-
attached slider, puller and top and bottom stops - we will not
accept zips made in the garment factory from continuous tape,
cut to length and the slider, puller and top and bottom stops
attached separately
Zippers must not be “cut down to length” all zipper manufactures
top and bottom stops must be fully intact.
Zippers without a Brand marking are not acceptable
Top and Bottom Stops
Claw top and bottom stop are not acceptable due to the
exposed sharp edges of claws
Only transparent “U’ type or plastic top stops must be used on
coil/nylon zippers
Only “D” type top stops must be used on metal zippers
Only “H” bottom stops must be used on metal closed end zippers
Open ended zippers must have a top stop to retain the slider
when the zipper is unfastened
As agreed with Talbots technical design
team
Must comply to Talbots Product
Performance Protocol – TBTR-
005
Must conform to Talbots RSL
9
Locking Mechanisms
Pin lock zippers are not acceptable. Semi auto and auto lock
zippers must be used as these have a locking pin built into slider.
Take care with coil zippers to ensure that surplus coil teeth do not
protrude above top stops, possibly causing personal injury
Element Restrictions
Aluminum zippers not permissible; have very weak teeth and do
not meet Talbots performance standards for reciprocation
Metal zippers must have a minimum 85% Copper content to aid
smoothness of fastening and strength
Plastic/Injection Moulded Zips
Open End
All open end zippers must have a “kob” type top stop to prevent
the zip slider from pulling off the top of zipper
Top stops and bottom stops must be plastic
Metal “D” type top stops are not acceptable
Metal claw type top stops are not acceptable
Closed End
All closed end zip must have plastic top and bottom stops
Coil/Spiral/Nylon Zips
Open End
All must have transparent “U” type top stops or plastic top stops
Metal “D” type or claw top stops are not acceptable
Bottom boxes may be either plastic or metal
Closed End
All must have a transparent “U” type top stop or plastic top stop
Metal “D” type or claw top stops are not acceptable
Bottom stops must be plastic
Metal Zips
Open End
All open end zippers must have a “D” type metal top stop
Claw top stops are not acceptable
Bottom boxes must be metal
Closed End
Jean Zippers – Closed End – Fly Area
All zippers for jeans fly area must be have “Y” shaped teeth
Top stops must be “D” type
Bottom stops must be “H” type
Claw top stops are not acceptable
Other Closed End
These can either to “Y” shaped or flat wire
Top stops must be “D” type
Bottom stops must be “H” type
III. Nominated Vendors Contact Details
a. Zippers - Plastic/Injection Moulded /Coil/Metal/Spiral/Nylon/Invisible/Jeans Zippers
b. Threads
COMPANY
Coats
CONTACT
Phyllis Freedman
PHONE
+1 (212) 561-6467
HEAD OFFICE
Coats
450, 7th Avenue Suite 1506
New York, NY 10023
USA
COMPANY
Ideal Fasteners Corporation
CONTACT
Jared Root
PHONE
+1 (212)-244-0262
HEAD OFFICE
Ideal Fasteners Corporation
42 West 38th Street, Suite 200
New York, NY 10018
USA
COMPANY
YKK (USA) Inc.
CONTACT
Lauren Simon/Kenny Park
PHONE
+1 (212) 768 9776
HEAD OFFICE
YKK (USA) Inc.
1411 Broadway Suite#2510
New York, NY 10018
USA
COMPANY
Coats
CONTACT
Phyllis Freedman
PHONE
+1 (212)-561-6467
HEAD OFFICE
Coats
450, 7th Avenue Suite 1506
New York, NY 10023 USA
COMPANY
Amann USA
CONTACT
John Giordano
PHONE
+1(888) 654 7522
John/[email protected]
HEAD OFFICE
Amann USA
452, Burbank Street
Broomfield, CO 80020 USA
COMPANY
Gunzetal
CONTACT
Fraser Marsden
PHONE
+852 2942 3493
HEAD OFFICE
Gunzetal Ltd.,
19-31 Ma Tau Pa Road,
Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong
11
FABRIC WEIGHT STITCH TYPE NEEDLE THREAD TEX SIZE BOTTOM THREAD TEX SIZE
UP TO 5 OZ
Lockstitch CSP TEX 18-24 CSP TEX 18-24
Chain Stitch CSP TEX 18-24 SSP TEX 21
Cover seam (Top Cover) CSP TEX 18-24 SSP TEX 21 3 and 4 Thread Overlock CSP TEX 18-24 SSP TEX 21 Top and Bottom Cover seam CSP TEX 18-24 SSP TEX 21 Flat Lock Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Blind Stitch Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Button Attach and Button Hole CSP TEX 18-24 CSP TEX 18-24
Button Shank Wrap Ascolite Ascolite
FABRIC WEIGHT STITCH TYPE NEEDLE THREAD TEX SIZE BOTTOM THREAD TEX SIZE
5.5 OZ TO 8.5 OZ
Lockstitch CSP TEX 30 CSP TEX 30
Chain Stitch CSP TEX 30 SSP TEX 27
Cover seam (Top Cover) CSP TEX 30 SSP TEX 27
3 and 4 Thread Overlock CSP TEX 30 SSP TEX 27
Top and Bottom Cover seam CSP TEX 30 SSP TEX 27
Flat Lock Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Blind Stitch Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Button Attach and Button Hole CSP TEX 30 CSP TEX 30
Button Shank Wrap Ascolite Ascolite
FABRIC WEIGHT STITCH TYPE NEEDLE THREAD TEX SIZE BOTTOM THREAD TEX SIZE
OVER 9 OZ
Lockstitch CSP TEX 40 CSP TEX 40
Chain Stitch CSP TEX 40 SSP TEX 40
Cover seam (Top Cover) CSP TEX 40 SSP TEX 40 3 and 4 Thread Overlock CSP TEX 40 SSP TEX 40 Top and Bottom Cover seam CSP TEX 40 SSP TEX 40 Flat Lock Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Blind Stitch Best Suited for Product Best Suited for Product Button Attach and Button Hole CSP TEX 40 CSP TEX 40
Button Shank Wrap Ascolite Ascolite
CSP = Core Spun Polyester SSP = Staple Spun Polyester
**PLEASE CONSULT YOUR LOCAL SEWING THREAD REPRESENTATIVE IF ANY OF THE ABOVE
THREAD QUALITIES DO NOT PERFORM PROPERLY FOR YOUR SPECIFIC PROCT NEEDS**
12
Ascolite - must be used for the shank wrapping of all bottoms/jackets and outerwear,
and on other button types as requested by the Talbots technologist
COMPANY
Ascolite Far East Ltd.
CONTACT
Tiffany Yam
PHONE
+852 2343 3262
HEAD OFFICE
Ascolite Far East Ltd.
Rm 2307 23/F Nanyang Plaza
57, Hung To Road,
Kwun Tong
Kowloon, Hong Kong
13
c. Metal Notions (Poppers, Eyelets, Snap Buttons, Rivets, Stud Buttons, etc.)
For “Talbots” Branded Stud Buttons and Rivets, our Nominated Vendor is Scovill
d. Pocketing
COMPANY
YKK Snap Fasteners America Inc.
CONTACT
Julie Kim
PHONE
+1 (212) 869-1491 ext. 102
HEAD OFFICE
YKK Snap Fasteners America Inc.
1411 Broadway Suite#2510
New York, NY 10018
USA
COMPANY
Copen USA Ltd.
CONTACT
Barry
PHONE
+1 (212) 819 0008
HEAD OFFICE
Copen Ltd
37 West 39th Street, Suite 603,
New York, NY 10018
USA
COMPANY
QST Industries Inc.
CONTACT
Mark Dudelson
PHONE
+1 (212) 764-2828
HEAD OFFICE
QST Industries Inc.
15 West 36th Street 2nd Floor
New York, NY 10018
USA
14
e. Interlining
COMPANY
Vilene
CONTACT
Susan C. Nickel
PHONE
1-212-947-2121 Ext. 245
Cell: 7-708-372-3594
HEAD OFFICE
1350 Broadway, Suite 904
New York, NY 10018
USA
COMPANY
Chargeurs Interlining
CONTACT
Rosemarie Gensoli
PHONE
+1 (215) 688 2328
HEAD OFFICE
Chargeurs Interlining
23, Saddle Lane
Easton, PA 18045
USA
15
f. Shoulder Pads
*New Trim and Component Nomination, Approval and Sign Off Process
If you wish to nominate a new trim or component supplier, please request in writing and submit to the
Talbots Quality Assurance Team. They will consider business case and current similar suppliers in their
determination.
COMPANY
Continental Collection Ltd
CONTACT
Douglas E. Michie
PHONE
+1 (212) 868 5770
HEAD OFFICE
Continental Collection Ltd
Suite 103,
Doylestown, PA 18901
USA
16
IV. Factory Trim and Component Inspection Process
All incoming trims and components must be inspected and managed.
They must remain in good condition and be warehoused in clean environments.
Requirements for Established Warehouses
Quarantine area for the holding of un-checked items
Quantity, quality, size and color checks, where applicable
o Drop test trims such as buttons, two-piece trims (buttons, decorative stones)
Approved samples available for each accessory, trim and label
Clear segregation on acceptable and non-conforming materials
Stock control system
Visual Inspection and Approval Process
There must be an approved visual standard established for each type and color of trim
Every delivery must be inspected against the standard
A sample from every box, roll, cone or bag must be inspected against the standard
o Applied inspection level: Sample Level II - AQL Critical 0, Major 2.5, Minor 4
All approved trims and accessories must be clearly identified as approved
If approval process was performed at a different location, copies of all the inspection and testing
documentation must be available with the material
Metal Detection of Trims & Accessories
100% of all ‘non-ferrous’ metal trims to be used in the manufacturing process must be passed
through the metal detector to ensure that they are totally metal free and will not activate the
metal detector during the metal detection of the finished product