chapter 13 - stairs & finish framing -...

Habitat for Humanity – MidOhio Construction Manual

April 2015 Stairs & Finish Framing 13-1

Chapter 13 - Stairs & Finish Framing

Contents Chapter 13 - Stairs & Finish Framing ............................................................................................. 13-1

Timing & Prerequisites ................................................................................................................ 13-2

Remove Bottom Plate in Doorways ......................................................................................... 13-3

Install Floor Truss Strong-Backs .............................................................................................. 13-3

Stairway Landings ....................................................................................................................... 13-4

Install Stairway Landings ......................................................................................................... 13-4

Stairs ............................................................................................................................................ 13-4

Planning the stair installation ................................................................................................... 13-4

Installing Fall Protection Anchors ............................................................................................ 13-4

Position the Stair Handlers ...................................................................................................... 13-4

Lowering the Stairs to the Basement ....................................................................................... 13-5

Rotate and Orient the Stairs .................................................................................................... 13-5

Installing the Stairs ................................................................................................................... 13-5

Additional Framing ....................................................................................................................... 13-6

Install Framing for Stairway Ceiling ......................................................................................... 13-8

Install Attic Access ................................................................................................................... 13-8

Blocking ..................................................................................................................................... 13-10

Install Blocking ....................................................................................................................... 13-10

Install Kitchen Cabinet Blocking ............................................................................................ 13-10

Install Bathroom Blocking ...................................................................................................... 13-10

Install Handrail Blocking......................................................................................................... 13-10

Build Basement Shelves ............................................................................................................ 13-11

Install Basement Safety Rails .................................................................................................... 13-13

Quality Assurance Checklist ...................................................................................................... 13-15

Summary ................................................................................................................................... 13-16



Things to Consider Most of the houses now have a 2 piece stairway. There will be 2

sections for the 2nd floor and 2 sections for the basement. Ensure the correct sections are installed.

Safety Issues Workers above the stairway opening must be wearing fall protection. The stairs are very heavy. Many hands are required to handle them.

Components Stairs Basement Shelving Blocking

Basement Safety Rails Attic Access

Timing & Prerequisites

Although this phase of the project cannot be completed until the framing is complete, some of the activities will be performed during the framing activities.

o The bottom plates which extend through doorways should be removed as soon as possible.

o The landing and stairs will be installed as soon as possible. o The attic access will be installed after the roof framing. o The floor truss strong-backs should be installed before rough mechanical

start.

The rough mechanicals cannot start until the stairs are installed.

The House/Project Lead will work with the Construction Superintendent to co-ordinate these volunteer activities.

Materials Needed Stairs Basement Shelving

Pre-built Staircase 3” Wood Screws 16d Sinker Nails Shims

2x4s 1/2” OSB 16d Sinker Nails 8d Sinker Nails

Stairway Landings Blocking

2x10s or 2x8s 2x4s ¾” OSB Joist Hangers N10 Hanger Nails 10d Hanger Nails 16d Sinker Nails 10d Sinker Nails 8d Sinker Nails Construction Glue

2x4s 2x8s 16d Sinker Nails



Stair Safety Railing Attic Access

2x4s Pressure Treated 2x4 10d Sinker Nails 16d Sinker Nails

2x4s ½” OSB 16d Sinker Nails 8d Sinker Nails

Remove Bottom Plate in Doorways

1. Toe-nail through the bottom plate between the king and jack studs on each side of the door into the flooring with a 16d sinker.

2. Use a reciprocating saw to cut the bottom plate which extends across the bottom of the doorways. Cut down through the plate on both sides of the doorway.

3. Use a hammer to tap the 2x4 out of the door.

Install Floor Truss Strong-Backs

The 2x6s should have been loaded into the floor trusses when the deck was built but not nailed to the floor trusses. The strong-backs must be nailed in place after all of the wall framing is completed and before the rough mechanicals. The procedure for completing the installation is listed above. (See “Install the Strong-Backs” in the Deck chapter).

Post LVLs and Girder Trusses

A set of jack studs must be installed under each end of a LVL or girder truss. The width of the set of jack studs must be equal to width of the LVL or girder truss above.

Add jacks studs to support any girders, beams or headers.

Nail together two (2) precut studs with 10d sinkers; 2 nails spaced approximately 12” apart; spread across the face of the studs. Sandwich on additional precut studs as needed to create the width needed.

Toe-nail the set of studs in place with 16d sinkers.



Stairway Landings

Install Stairway Landings

The size and shape to the landings will change based on the house design. Build the landing to the design in the prints.

Landing will be built with either 2x8 or 2x10 floor joists and rim joists. The sub-floor will be ¾” OSB. The prints will identify the proper building materials. Install the floor joists at 16” oc.

Ensure the joists and rim joists are supported with joist hangers and jack studs. Attach the framing with 16d sinkers. Attach joist hangers with N10 Simpson nails and 10d hanger nails.

Ensure the floor joists are supported with joist hangers.

Glue and nail the OSB sub-floor to the joists. Attach the sub-floor with 8d sinkers.

Stairs

Critical Issues

Set of stairs should be installed by raising it up from the lower level; not lowering into place from the upper level.

Safety Issues

Working over the stairway opening requires the use of fall protection.

Planning the stair installation

1. Install the sets of stairs from the bottom up. 2. Plan for access to upper and lower levels, including access to any landings. 3. Plan for placement of fall protection. 4. Plan for movement of the stairs to ensure the stairs ends up in the stair opening lying

flat, with the correct orientation and ready to raise. 5. Assign volunteers to:

a. Stair Moving Coordinator - 1 b. Lower level stair handlers – 4+ c. Upper level stair handlers – 3+ d. Stair nailers – (2 of the Lower level stair handlers).

Installing Fall Protection Anchors

Attach three (3) anchor plates (one for each upper level stair handle) to the top of studs in nearby exterior walls in the upper level; one plate per stud. Attach the carbineer of retractable life line to each anchor.

Position the Stair Handlers

1. Position the lower level volunteers, wearing gloves, on lower level. For all basement stairs, including two piece stairs, position all lower level volunteers in the basement. For second floor stairs, the lower level volunteers will be positioned on the basement stairs below.



2. Position the upper level volunteers, wearing gloves and harnesses attached the retractable life line, on the upper level.

3. For two piece stairs, two of the upper level volunteers must be positioned on the landing when the lower section of the stairs are being installed.

Lowering the Stairs to the Basement

Safety Issues

Clear the upper and lower areas before moving the stairs.

All movement of the stairs must be at the direction of the Stair Movement Coordinator.

Ensure the upper level volunteers hold tight to the stairs until the Stair Movement Coordinator gives the direction to let go.

Basement stairs need to be lowered to the basement before they can be installed. 1. Remove the guard railing. 2. Rotate the stairs onto its side; narrow side up. 3. Slide the bottom of the stairs into the opening. Keep sliding the stairs forward

until it begins to tip. Ensure the upper level volunteers hold tight to the top of the stairs.

4. The lower level volunteers will guide the bottom of the stairs to the basement floor while the upper level volunteers hold of the top of the stairs.

5. The lower level volunteers will grab hold of the stairs as high as they can reach and lower the top onto the basement floor.

Rotate and Orient the Stairs

Safety Issues

Avoid walking backwards

Before moving the stairs into the stairway openings, the stairs must be laid over on its back. In most house models, the stairs cannot be rotated in place due to the framing on each side.

For basement stairs, carry the stairs to a place in the basement where it can be rotated and returned with the correct orientation.

Installing the Stairs

Critical Issues

The top of the stairs should be installed ¼” above the sub-flooring for vinyl flooring and flush to the sub-flooring for carpeting.

Safety Issues

Lift the stairs with your legs, do not lift the stairs with your back.



Extreme care must be taken when lifting the upper stairs from the lower stairs. Slow movements are best.

1. The lower level volunteers will raise the top of the stairs up. Then the upper level volunteers will guide the stairs into place. The lower level volunteers must not let go until the stairs are nailed in place.

2. If the set of stairs will set on a landing, the upper level volunteers will raise the top of the stairs up above the floor while the lower level volunteers raise the bottom of the stairs onto the landing.

3. The upper level volunteers will center the stairs in the opening with the top of the stairs flush to the sub-floor for carpeting, or ¼” above the sub-floor for vinyl flooring. The lower level volunteers will slide the bottom of the stairs left, right, in or out at the command of the upper level volunteers to get the stairs level and at the correct height. Ensure at least two volunteers continue to support the top of the stairs.

4. The lower level volunteers will install shims between the stringers and the studs alongside of the stairs, then nail through the portion of the stringer below the stairs and shims into the studs with 16d sinkers; 1 nail in each stud on both sides.

5. Once the stairs are secured, add three (3) 3” wood screws through the top riser into the header.

Install the Temporary Handrail

Critical Issues

The top of the temporary handrail must be installed at 34”.

The temporary handrail should be installed on the right side of the stairway as you go up the stairs.

The temporary handrail must be attached with two 2x4 blocks at each connection point.

Safety Issues

A temporary handrail must be installed as soon as possible after the stairs have been installed.

The temporary handrail must be installed securely to the wall framing.

Once the stairs have been installed, install a 2x6 as a temporary handrail.

1. On the side wall above the first and the last tread of the stair attach two (2) 2x4

blocks.

Cut four (4) 2x4 blocks to fit across two wall studs; typically 21”.

Attach one block on the side wall above the bottom tread with 16d sinkers

through the block into the wall studs; 2 nails into each wall stud. The top of

the block should be 32” above the nose of the tread.



Attach one block on the side wall above the top tread with 16d sinkers

through the block into the wall studs; 2 nails into each wall stud. The top of

the block should be 32” above the nose of the tread.

Attach a second block over the two block install above with 16d sinkers

through second block into the first block.

2. If wall studs are not available, additional bracing will need to be added to provide

an anchor point for the temporary.

3. Attach the 2x6 temporary handrail to the 2x4 blocks.

Position the 2x6 over the 2x4 blocks with the top of the 2x6 at 34” above the

nose of the treads.

Attach the 2x6 with 16d sinkers; 2 nails into each set of blocks.



Additional Framing

Install Framing for Stairway Ceiling

If the house model calls for a stairway ceiling, the framing will be added after the stairs are installed. 1. The stairway ceiling will be framed with a 2x4 header to hold the top of the

stairway ceiling and 2x4 ceiling joists running from the 2x4 header at the top of stairs to a header at the bottom of the stairs. The headers must support the ceiling joists at a minimum height 6’ 9”.

2. Install the header at the top of the stairs.

Cut a 2x4 long enough to extend across the top of the stairway.

Position the 2x4 header on top of the double top plates of the walls on either side of the stairs. The 2x4 header should be placed even with the top of the stairs.

Nail the 2x4 header in with 16d sinkers.

3. If the house plans call for a header at the bottom of the stairs, build and install it as specified in the plan.

4. Install ceiling support rails.

Snap a chalk line on the studs along the side of the stairway, starting at the front edge of the header just installed; extend down to the bottom corner of the header at the bottom of the stairs.

Measure this line and cut three 2x4s to the length.

Cut one end of each 2x4 with an angle to fit under the 2x4 header just installed and the other end with an angle to fit at the bottom corner of the header at the bottom of the stairs. To determine the angles needed, hold one of the 2x4 flush to the bottom of the chalk line. Lay a scrap piece of 2x4 across the face of the 2x4 and flush to the top header. Draw a line on the cut 2x4 even with the bottom of the scrap 2x4. Repeat this procedure at the bottom header.

Nail 2 rails to the sides of the stair wall. Nail through the rails into the studs with 16d nails.

Nail the 3rd rail down the center of the stairway. Nail through the top into the 2x4 header and the bottom into the header.

Install Attic Access

1. Locate the position of the attic access on the prints and confirm the location with the Superintendent. The access must be installed between two roof trusses which are 24” o.c. and there will be 32” of clearance above the opening.

2. Mark the location on the horizontal members of the truss. The opening should be 22 ½” by 32”.



3. Cut 2x4 blocks to go between the horizontal members of the trusses. This will be 22 ½”.

4. Nail the blocks in place with 16d sinkers. Nail each corner in with 2 nails.

5. Cut pieces of 1/2” OSB to fit inside the access opening; 13” above the truss which means you will need 2 pieces 22 ½” by 18” and 2 pieces 31” by 16 ½”.

6. Nail these pieces into the opening flush with the bottom of the truss with 8d sinkers.



Blocking

Critical Issues

Blocking must be installed flush to the studs to prevent bumps in the drywall.

Install Blocking

Blocking is needed in various places to provide an anchor point for hanging things like cabinets and handrails. 1. The blocking is installed before the drywall and flush to the studs with the

wide side of the material facing into the room.

2. Blocking can be cut from 2x4s, 2x6s or 2x8, depending on how much an anchor is needed and how much room is available.

3. Blocks are cut from 2x material to go between the studs. Usually these will be 14 ½”.

4. Nail the blocks in place with 16d sinkers. Nail 2 nails through the studs into each end of the blocking if possible. Otherwise, toe-nail with 8d sinkers into each end.

Install Kitchen Cabinet Blocking

1. Locate the position of the kitchen cabinets on the prints and mark their location on the floor.

2. Measure up from the floor and make a mark at 84” on the studs in the wall where the cabinets will go.

3. Cut 2x4 blocks to fit between the studs.

4. Install a 2x4 block at each mark; positioned on edge (3 ½” side facing out); and with the center of the block aligned with the marks.

Install Bathroom Blocking

1. Install blocking for the grab bars.

a. Discuss the placement of ADA blocking needed with the Superintendent.

b. Cut 2x4 blocks needed.

c. Install 2x4 blocking where directed.

Install Handrail Blocking

1. Cut 2x8 blocks.

2. Install 2x8 blocks 34” to the top of the blocking above the tread nosing running parallel to the plane of the steps. (See figure 13.1)

3. Install blocks above the tread of the first, middle and last step.

4. Cut a 2x8 block.



5. Install the 2x8 block at the base of the staircase to provide an anchor point for the baseboard trim. Install this block flush to the bottom plate in the cavity where the staircase ends.

Build Basement Shelves

1. Build shelving in the basement for storage. (See Figure 13.2).

Note - Build the shelving unit in the basement; it will not fit down the stairs.

2. Cut 2x4 supports for the 2 shelves:

a. Eight (8) 2x4s – 21” (4 for end shelf supports and 4 for center shelf blocking)

b. Four (4) 2x4s – 96” (front and back shelf supports)

3. Cut 1/2” OSB shelving.

a. Two (2) ½” OSB – 24” x 96”

4. Assemble the 2 shelves. Nail the 2x4 structure together using 16d sinkers; 2 nails into each joint. Attach the ½” OSB to the 2x4 structure with 8d sinkers; 1 nail every 8” around the perimeter.

5. Cut 2x4 legs.

a. Two (2) 2x4s – 48” (Front Legs).

b. Five (5) 2x4s – (Back Legs) – 93”. Field verify the sill height

6. Assemble the shelving unit.

a. Nail the two (2) 2x4s for each of the back legs together in an “L”. Keep the board flush and the top and bottom and along the back edge.

Figure 13.1 – Handrail Blocking



b. Hold the 3 back legs on the wall where the shelving will be installed. Using a level, mark a level line across the 3 legs at an average of 24” above the floor.

c. Attach the back legs to the bottom shelf. Keep the top of the shelf even with the line made above. Nail the legs on with 16d sinkers; 2 nails into each shelf.

d. Attach the back legs to the top shelf. Position the shelf 24” above the bottom shelf. Nail the legs to the shelf with 16d sinkers; 2 nails into each shelf.

e. Position the shelving against the wall where it will be installed. Hold each shelf level and install the front legs. Nail the legs to the shelves with 16d sinkers.

7. Anchor the shelves to the wall sill with two (2) 16d nails through each of the three (3) 2x4 back supports.

Figure 13.2 – Basement Storage Shelves



Install Basement Safety Rails

If the basement stairs have open sides, safety rails will need to be installed. (See Figure 13.3). Safety rails must be installed on both sides, if both sides are open.

1. Install a pole to secure the bottom of the railing made from two (2) 2x4 attached in an “L”. (See Figure 13.3)

Cut a 2x4 post which extends from the bottom of the sub-floor to the floor. Cut a short piece of pressure-treated 2x4 for a block to hold the post. Cut a second 2x4 post which extends from the bottom of the header to the top of the block.

Attach the 2x4 block to the back of the long post even with the bottom of the long post. Attach the short post to the back of the long post to form an “L” with the bottom of the short post flush to the top of the 2x4 block. Attach using 16d sinkers; 1 every 16”.

Position the pole at the bottom of the stairs; 1 to 6 inches from the nose of the bottom step; with the 2x4 block on the outside of the stair stringer. Attach the 2x4 block to the side of the stair case with 16d galvanized nails. Plumb the post and attach to the header of joist with 16d sinkers.

2. Attach additional support post.

Cut the third 2x4 post which extends from the bottom of the header to the floor. Position post on the outside of the stairway stringer; 30” from the point where the stringer intersects the header. Plumb the post and attach to the stringer with 8d sinkers.

3. Install safety rails. (See Figure 13.4).

Cut a 2x4 that will extend from the side of the bottom post to the header at the same angle as the staircase. Lay 2x4 spacers on top of the stringer. Lay the 2x4 to be cut on top of the spacers and against the bottom post. Using the back side of the post, mark a line at the bottom of the 2x4. Using the back side of the header, mark a line at the top of the 2x4. Cut

Figure 13.3 - Safety Rail Posts



the rail; set back on the spacers; and attach to the posts with 10d sinkers. Toe-nail the 2x4 into the header with 16d sinkers.

Move the 2x4 spacer on top the rail just installed. Cut and install 2 more 2x4 safety rails as before. Each rail will be 3 ½” above the previous rail.

Figure 13.4 – Safety Railing



Quality Assurance Checklist

o Ensure the strong-backs are plumb and secure them to the floor trusses. o Ensure the range hood header and framing are complete. o Ensure the floor trusses; studs; and roof trusses stack from bottom to top. o Ensure all LVLS and girder trusses are fully posted with double studs to foundation

as required. o Ensure wind bracing is installed to support the gable end trusses. o Ensure one hurricane tie is installed at each end of each roof truss and all of the

holes are filled with hanger nails. o Ensure drywall stops are installed on 2x4 studs in corners of each room and closet. o Ensure the stairs are securely installed. o Verify the stairway ceilings are installed with a 6’ 9” clearance. o Ensure all cabinet & ADA blocking is complete. o Ensure there are studs that will align with the bathtub flanges. o Check the height of blocking for cabinets and handrails. o Take pictures of completed items. o Ensure work site is clean and materials are properly stored before proceeding. o Perform a final check with the “Framing Checklist”. (See checklists in Chapter 35 -

Check Lists).



Summary

Cabinet Blocking Height 84” to center of blocking

Handrail Blocking Height 32” to center from blocking

Attic Access Opening 22 ½” x 32”

Clearance above Attic Access 32”

chapter 13 - stairs & finish framing -...

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