cij trends & colours spring 2011

No 292 / Spring 2011

580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10036 - [email protected] - www.assael.com

Editor’s Letter04 Paper Is So Last Millennium... or Is It?

Cover Feature06 Opera Omnia – Seductive Sonatas

Profiles08 Eco-Gold by Jewelmer10 Ramon – Devotion to Excellence

Colour Trends12 Colours for Spring/Summer 2011

Marketplace34 SIHH 2011 – Optimism and Neoclassicism38 Vicenzaoro First Opens Under the Banner of Innovation42 Jewels in the Desert46 IIJS Signature 2011 Show Report

48 Index

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I N T H I S I S S U E

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On the CoverPendant, earrings, and ring in the Antigua collection in 18K rose gold with amethyst, citrine, and diamonds by Opera Omnia.

Cover Feature on page 6

www.operajewels.comwww.opera-omnia.it

Colour Trends – Nary ManivongUnderwater Treasures –

Stephen Webster

Trends & Colours20 Spring Flowers22 Lacy Looks24 Still Charming26 Black is the New Black28 Pure White 30 Colour Combos32 Underwater Treasures

The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star. Editor Contributors Advertising contacts Alexandra Montandon [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder

[email protected] T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati [email protected] T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected] T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong [email protected] Graphic Design Managing Director

On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: [email protected]

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.

12

Colour Trends – Nary Maniv

32 Underwater Treasures

34Marketplace SIHH – Cartier

20Spring Flowers – Piaget

3Underwater Treas

Stephen W

22Lacy Looks – Ole Lynggaard

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04

PaPer is so last millennium…

or is it?

Cynthia UnninayarEditor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours

Cynthia

We are hearing more and more these days about the death of paper. Some argue that because of the internet, paper will go the way of the dinosaur, that online advertising will replace print, that paper is so last millennium…

Well, not quite so fast.

A research study involving brain scans commissioned by the branding agency Millward Brown shows that people process information differently depending on whether it is virtual or on paper. The study

suggests that “physical material is more ‘real’ to the brain. It has a meaning, and a place. It is bet-ter connected to memory because it engages with its spatial memory networks.” The study goes on to

state that “physical materials produced more brain responses connected with internal feelings, suggesting greater ‘internalization’ of the ads.” To sum it up, “tangible materials leave a deeper footprint in the

brain” than do virtual materials. Thus, “tangible materials involved more emotional processing in the subjects, important from a branding and ad recall standpoint.”

Does this mean we should abandon the digital world? No, of course not. What this study shows is that both

mediums have important but different—and we could add complementary—roles when it comes to marketing and branding. Paper incites a more emotional and long lasting response but the interactivity and immediacy of digital have their own advantages.

To use our magazine, CIJ Trends & Colours, as an example, many of our readers—retailers, designers, and brands—have complimented us on the attractive pages and layouts showing the trends and the many colours of jewellery from around the world. Theirs was a physical response to the physical pages, to the print magazine they held in their hands.

Yet, after printing and mailing the last issue—the 2011 trends tracker guide—it was put online on our rather unique website, www.CIJintl.com. The response surprised even us. It received nearly a million page

views. Obviously, both paper and digital are important parts of our world. Both have their place, and both can be used to effectively get a message out.

In this issue, we continue our message of colour, showing the Spring/Summer 2011

colours forecasted by Pantone, along with matching jewellery. In terms of trends, the floral theme is one of the biggest for 2011 and is featured here along with the

popular marine motifs and the luxurious lacy looks—the price of metals oblige. While colour is, of course, the main trend, both in single shades and in multi-hues, black and white pieces

continue to be appreciated by many, as do the little charms that can be personalized in so many ways. You can see them all on our Trends & Colours pages in this issue.

Happy reading—whether you are holding the magazine in your hand or viewing it online.

E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

Marketing maestro Massimo Zerbini is not resting on his laurels with the success of his new brand Opera Omnia. Having assembled a group of talented artisans and creative designers, he continues to build this new and distinctive brand through a style and set of values that reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury. Using

precious gems and the highest quality materials, Opera Omnia has just added two new collections, confirming its

prestigious status in terms of superior design, stone quality, and superb manufacturing.Innovation, new materials, high quality gemstones, diamonds and unique combinations of gems and precious metals are a few of the phrases that describe Opera Omnia’s latest collections of Antigua and S.Barths.There is something magically seductive about the curved lines, sinuous movements, and interwoven patterns that make up the fine jewellery pieces in the Antigua collection. In an almost theatrical manner, they interpret a variety of historical baroque patterns that represent a mixture of cultures, symbolisms, and mysticisms. The artistry and virtuosity of each Antigua piece is enhanced by the uncommon combinations of different gemstones. Amethyst coupled with Madera quartz or citrine with smoky quartz, joined in unusual settings evokes a world of allegoric illusions and dreams. The thoughtful mix of yellow or rose gold with precious gems creates a certain rhythm that breaks with the past and brings it into the future.The forces of Nature seem to come alive in a soft, yet assertive, fashion in the S.Barths collection. Building an exclusive and absolute relationship with Nature, the S.Barths collection presents small sculptures that can be worn and admired. Soft fluid shapes in 18K rose or white gold suggest the sensuality of S.Barths Island and reflect the movement of the isle’s flowers and leaves. Colourful, airy, and intensely feminine, these exquisite pieces bring together the finest sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in creative and contemporary combinations. Opera Omnia continues its popular Saba line with a variety of new designs. The latest creations continue the use of colour and the geometric forms of its earlier lines, adding a very contemporary flair in terms of design and vibrancy. Lively chromatic combinations of pink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and leather make these pieces exceptional.

Opera Omnia – Seductive SOnataS

06

Antigua Collection

Opera Omnia continues to create colourful jewellery that combines Italian expertise in craftsmanship with a pureness of design.

By Cynthia Unninayar

C o v e r s t o r y

Massimo Zerbini

The brand’s continuing Canouan line, inspired by the southern Antilles and the varied landscape of green hills, secluded bays, and white sand beaches, features such gems as white and brown diamonds, tsavorite, amethyst, prasiolite, and garnet in simple and clean designs.Again drawing inspiration from the marine environment are pieces in the Coral Reef collection. In various shapes, these jewels are covered with diamond pavé or hand-finished mother-of-pearl, highlighted with pink sapphires, chalcedony, and other coloured gemstones.Who are the women who wear these original pieces? Zerbini describes the Opera Omnia woman as “an individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan, and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the different aspects of her personality.”For its distribution, Opera Omnia works with select retailers. The brand’s strategy and co-marketing activities for 2011 are focused on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the Opera Omnia brand with consumers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its message, and identity at the point of the sale.Opera Omnia will be present at BaselWorld in March at the prestigious Hall 2.2, Booth E81, as well as at the exclusive Couture show in Las Vegas in June where its latest seductive sonatas can be admired. (operajewels.com, opera-omnia.it, Tel: +1.305.534.1974)

07

s.Barths Collection

Canouan Collection

Coral reef Collection

saba Collection

Jewelmer, the world’s leading producer of golden pearls, was started in 1979 by the visionary French perliculture expert,

Jacques Branellec, and Filipino entrepreneur, Manuel Cojuangco. What sets this company apart from most others is not just the high quality of its living golden gems

and luxurious jewellery, but also the brand’s philosophy and determination to protect the environment and promote sustainability projects for the local population.

Jewelmer’s jewellery is a perfect blend of European and Asian creativity, artistry, and craftsmanship, combining the lustrous golden pearl—which needs no polishing or enhancements to release its inner glow—with 18K gold,

diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Ranging from simple pendants to elegant strands to sumptuous pieces worthy of the

red carpet, the jewellery of Jewelmer is like no other.Behind these extraordinary pearls lies thirty years of research and

experimentation to provide the best environment for the oysters, which allows them to create these golden organic gems. And, for oysters to

live and thrive, this environment means clean seawater at constant temperatures. But, there are threats to this environment. Industrial pollution, erosion, and siltation put the health and lives of the oysters at risk, while destructive fishing methods—especially those using dynamite and cyanide—can dramatically harm the fragile marine ecosystem. And, along with global warming comes rising sea temperatures—even a two-degree change can prove fatal to the oysters.“The pearl is an indicator of the health of the planet,” says Jacques Branellec, managing director of Jewelmer and avowed environmentalist. “It records every nuance in the cleanliness of the water, every change in temperature, every disturbance caused by a dynamite blast. If we preserve nature, we will continue to have pearls. If mankind does not respect our environment, the pearl industry might just vanish, as it has already done in some parts of the world.”While Jewelmer’s management readily states that maintaining a clean environment is in its best interest, the philosophy of protecting the environment goes much deeper and is deeply ingrained in the entire company. This social and environmental

awareness is also seen in various initiatives that Jewelmer has undertaken to teach the local population sustainable farming techniques for a better life, and to help stop the detrimental slash and burn activities, as well as destructive fishing. The company also contributes to other environmental protection and education efforts in the local islands. A company with a conscience, Jewelmer will continue to help protect the environment as well as provide the world with its beautiful eco-gold

creations. (www.Jewelmer.com)

The true beauty of the creations by Jewelmer is on two levels. First is the brand’s exquisite jewellery made from the natural golden

pearls that it cultivates in the ocean waters of the Philippines. Second is the brand’s active participation in protecting the

environment.


ECO-GOLD BY JEWELMER

crc

P R O F I L E

08

“I have not been lucky by chance.” Carlos E. Ramon—father of current chairman, Mr. Carlos

Ramon—whose personal motto was “work, work, work,” lived by these words since he was 17 when he opened his first workshop with only five employees. Today, the Ramon brand is recognized globally, with over 300 international and national customers. Its collections include a range of stylish jewellery, from whimsical

animals to sinuous gold and diamond pieces to captivating and airy mesh circles and ovals. Ramon also varies its designs to meet

the requests of specific clients. “After all,” Carlos Ramon says, “the customer is King.”

“There are no preconceived rules in the design of our jewellery,” he continues. “We try for acute artistic sensitivity and extraordinary creativity as well as a search for perfection in each design.” Harmony, balance, and sophistication are at the heart of each collection—as is Carlos Ramon’s devotion to excellence. But there is also a captivating sense of charm and fun in many of his pieces. A few years ago, the company introduced spherical elements into its design line-up, made up of a refined and airy mesh of circles in a variety of shapes. Later, came oval forms in a number of variations in rings, earrings, bangles, and pendants. Large, but light and airy, these gold, diamond, and gemstone pieces are destined to the self-purchaser who knows what she wants. And, for women who want to be truly exclusive, Ramon also produces its pieces in platinum. In BaselWorld, Ramon will introduce 30 to 40 new pieces consisting of coloured rings using enamel and diamonds, flower motifs, laser cut bracelets, and more circle motifs, all reflecting high quality and distinctive designs, representative of Ramon’s devotion to excellence. (www.ramon.es)

Barcelona-based Ramon occupies a prominent place among fine European jewellers, producing high quality collections under its own brand label as well as private collections for many of the finest names on the Place Vendôme.

By Rayan Innue

Ramon – Devotion to excellence

Carlos Ramon

P R o f i l e

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C O L O U R T R E N D S

Bapalal Keshavlal

Stephen Webster

Goldesign

Paula Crevoshay

Tresor

Nary Manivong, using Pantone Blue Curacao. The must-have fashion item: One-shoulder corset wrap dress in Sea Foam, and the fisherman pants in the diamond print will look great with a Black or Nude strapless wrap corset top.

In the winter edition of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we talked

-

also are are the opinions of fashion designers on their must-have fashion item.

Colours for Spring/Summer 2011

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.

SWAROVSKI AG / DROESCHISTRASSE 15 / 9495 TRIESEN / LIECHTENSTEINT +49 308 9677 7774 / [email protected]

WWW.SWAROVSKI-GEMS.COM

SG_AD_Trends&Colors_205x265.indd 1 2/23/11 3:34 PM

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.port S

14


Nanette Lepore, using Pantone Honeysuckle. The must-have fashion item: This spring is about convertible dressing – jackets that double as shirts, outerwear as light as a dress.

Valerio B

Elke Berr

Ramon

Mi Piaci

Sevan

Yael Sonia

Vianna

Charlotte Ronson, using Pantone Russet. The must-have fashion item: Spanish floral spaghetti-strap dress with ruffled handker-chief hemline.

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Visit us at:Baselworld - The World Watch and Jewellery ShowMarch 24 - 31, 2011Hall 3.0 - Stand C60

09516AD1103W_EUSbasel.indd 1 09/02/11 14:29

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.F hi k h d l f olour Repoeport rt SSSprSpringg 202011.11.


Tibi, using Pantone Beeswax. The must-have fashion item: It’s not an item for spring, it’s a head-to-toe look, an Ochre top with match-ing Ochre pant.

Opera Omnia

Mathon Paris

Jolie B. Ray

Casato

Cynthia Gale Geo Art

Stuller

Bogh-Art

Rebecca Taylor, using Pantone Coral Rose. The must-have fashion item: Our tea-length, smocked-waist skirt, in Kelly Green of course!

Jolie B. RRay

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Ella Moss by Pamela Protzel Scott, using Pantone Silver Cloud. The must-have fashion item: The maxi skirt in silk chiffon prints and washed cotton voiles – this silhouette pairs nicely with loose casual tees.

Toby Pomeroy

Green G

Skagen Denmark

Utopia

Jorg Heinz

Bastian

Tarditi

Bruner

Brosway

Tommy Hilfiger, using Pantone Regatta. The must-have fashion item: The tennis skirt is a fresh, quirky take on a staple American pastime.

Carlos Campos, using Pantone Lavender. The must-have fashion item: Our button down wrap dress in Rosa.

Gumuchian

Antonini

Vendorafa

Rodney RaynerVianna

Daniela Swaebe

David Lin Jades

The Fifth Season

Monique Lhuillier, using Pantone Silver Peony. The must-have fashion item: A shimmery cocktail dress with ombre sequins.

annaa


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1. Flower brooch made in gold from a real flower by Vajra (Korea). 2. Gold and diamond ring by Manoel Bernardes (Brazil). 3. Gemstone and diamond necklace by E & V Jewellery (Hong Kong). 4. South Sea golden pearl and diamond earrings by Jewelmer (Philippines). 5. Gemstone and diamond ring by Piaget (Switzerland). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 7. Gemstone and diamond ring by Gay Freres (France). 8. Shoe by Luciano Padovan (photo: AS). 9. Outfit by Dolce & Gabbana (photo: AS).

Flowers remain one of the popular themes in both fashion and jewellery. From simple stylistic designs to elaborate and realistic petals, stems, and leaves made of colourful gemstones and diamonds, flower creations add a touch of splendour to any outfit, no

matter what season of the year.

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10. Ruby and diamond earrings by Green G (Hong Kong). 11. Gold, enamel, and diamond ring by Masriera (Spain). 12. Baroque South Sea pearl and diamond brooch by Assael International (USA). 13. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Unicorn (Hong Kong). 14. Gemstone brooch by Zorab (Thailand). 15. Sapphire and diamond ring by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 16. Diamond and tsavorite ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 17. Enamel and gold brooch by Hidalgo (USA). 18. Outfit by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Gold and diamond pendant by Ramon (USA). 2. Gold and diamond ring by Alberian&Aude (USA). 3. Gemstone, gold, and diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 4. Gold and diamond pendant by Luca Carati (Italy). 5. Gold and diamond brooch by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 6. Ebony, diamond, and gold bracelet by Raffaella Mannelli (Italy). 6. Gold cuff by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 7. Outfit by Zigman (photo: Dubrovnik Fashion Week).

The open, airy, and lacy look is a popular trend both in jewellery and fashion. Although a style in its own right, lacy designs also offer a larger look with a lighter weight, especially since prices of precious metals have soared over the last few years. With designs inspired by nature, architecture, geometry, and freeform shapes, the lacy look is evoked in a variety of metals, gemstones, pearls,

diamonds, and even wood.

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9. Diamond and gold pendant by LeVian (USA). 10. Gold pendant by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico). 11. Gold and diamond pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 12. Diamond, pearl, and gold pendant by Yael Designs (USA). 13. Gold and diamond cuff by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 14. Silver cuff by Metalsmith Sterling (Canada). 15. Gold, diamond, and ruby pendant by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 16. Outfit by BCBG Max Azria (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Gold and diamond charm by Garel (France). 2. Charm ring in pink gold, white gold, and diamonds by Ramon (Spain). 3. Gold, diamond, and enamel charm bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 4. Onyx, silver, and enamel charm bracelet by Luxenter (Spain). 5. Silver and enamel “Summer Lover” charm bracelet by Ti Sento (The Netherlands). 6. Outfit by Alexandre Herchcovitch (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

Charms have undergone a number of evolutions over the years, but their popular continues unabated. Not only found on bracelets, these little jewels grace earrings, rings, and even pendants. Perhaps their greatest appeal is that they can be personalized, evoking everything from love to lifestyle, from a favourite pet to a favourite vacation, in a variety of metals and gemstones. They are indeed still

charming.


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STILL CHARMING1

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7. Variety of charms on a leather bracelet by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 8. Charms and bracelet in 18K gold by Commelin (France). 9. Message charm bracelet by Heather Moore (USA). 10. Gold and diamond teddy bear charm by Salvini (Italy). 11. Gold and enamel “Dog” charm bracelet by Rosato (Italy). 12. Doggie charm bracelet in gold and enamel by Meche (USA). 13. Outfit by Naeem Khan (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Black titanium and silver pendant by Mirella (USA). 2. Onyx and silver pendant by Scott Kay (USA). 3. Onyx and diamond earrings by Kenzo (France). 4. Black and white diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 5. Blackened metal earrings by K.Brunini (USA). 6. Black jade carved dragon belt buckle by David Lin Jades (USA). 7. Outfit by Brioni (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

Mysterious, sensual, and sophisticated, black continues to be one of the basic colours for 2011, whether in the little black dress or in the little black jewel. In jewellery, black is interpreted by pearls, diamonds, sapphires, onyz, jet, jade, and

a number of blackened metals.


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8. Onyx and turquoise pendant by Syna (USA). 9. Onyx and diamond earrings by Ivanka Trump (USA). 10. Black Tahitian pearl and diamond earring by Assael International (USA). 11. Black diamond and gold ring by Garavelli (Italy). 12. Tungsten carbide ring by Frederick Goldman (USA). 13. Black and white diamond ring by Diamond Shadows (USA). 14. Ceramic and diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 15. Outfit by Carlos Miele (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Diamond, rock crystal, and gold pendant by Casato (Italy). 2. Diamond and South Sea white pearl earrings by Autore (Australia). 3. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 4. Pearl and diamond earrings by Mathon Paris (France). 5. Agate and gold ring by Ramon (Spain). 6. Shoes by Tosca Blu (photo: AS). 7. Outfit by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

In the strict sense of the term, white is not a colour but the presence of all colours combined, giving it a complete energy. With its cool qualities, white is thought to provide clarity and purity. In jewellery, elegant white designs are created with jade, agate, gold, silver, pearls, ceramic,

diamonds, and quartz, among others.


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8. Diamond and South Sea pearl earrings by Staurino (Italy). 9. Quartz, gold, and diamond ring by Bruner (Brazil). 10. Agate and gold earrings by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 11. White ceramic, black diamond, and gold ring by Leaderline (Italy). 12. Octea Sport Ultra White watch by Swarovski (Austria). 13. White ceramic and coloured diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 14. Outfit by Christophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme).

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1. Multi-coloured gemstone ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 2. Mutli-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by HH Gems (Hong Kong). 3. Multi-coloured sapphire and diamond necklace by Eclat Jewels (USA). 4. Multi-coloured sapphire, pearl, and diamond earrings by Guilherme Duque (Brazil). 5. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Tresor (USA). 6. Outfit by Tsumori Chisato (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

Nothing evokes Spring like a rainbow of colours both in fashion and in jewellery. From simple to sophisticated, jewellery designers from around the world offer a multitude of wonderful and

creative colour combos.


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Nothing evokes Spring like a rainbow of coloursokes Sprboth in fashion and in jewellery. From simple toshion ansophisticated, jewellery designers from aroundt dthe world offer a multitude of wonderful and

creative colour combos.

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7. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Lorenz Baumer (France). 8. Gemstone and gold pendant by Marco Bicego (Italy). 9. Multi-coloured gemstone pendant by Yael Designs (USA). 10. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 11. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl earrings by Elena Martinico (Italy). 12. Chair by Cappellini (photo: AS). 13. Outfit by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (photo: Cibeles Madrid).

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1. “Sapphire and diamond “Jewels Verne” flying fish brooch by Stephen Webster (Britain). 2. Multi-coloured gemstone brooch from “Les Voyages Extraordinaires” by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 3. Opal, diamond, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 4. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl brooch by Autore (Australia). 5. Gold seahorse charm by Commelin (France). 6. Diamond and pearl brooch by Assael International (USA). 7. Ruby, silver, and gold ring by Manya & Roumen (USA). 8. Outfit by Dolores Cortes (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

Among the themed jewellery collections, the marine environment is one of the most popular, evoking fish, octopus, snails, and other creatures of the deep crafted in a variety of gemstones, metals, and diamonds. Whether representing realistic creations, playful pieces, or stylized interpretations, they are

certainly wonderful underwater treasures.


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9. Sapphire and diamond charm by Pippo Perez (Italy). 10. Diamond and ruby manta ray ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 11. Enamel and diamond pendant by Aaron Basha (USA). 12. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond brooch by Lorenz Baumer (France). 13. Multi-colored gemstone and gold ring by Misis (Italy). 14. Opal, diamond, emerald, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 15. Outfit by Gottex (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC). Background underwater image taken by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry (USA).

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The 2011 edition of the SIHH definitely saw a change in mood from last year. After all the uncertainties of the previous couple of years, optimism was the word of the day as the 19 exhibiting brands showcased their wares to retailers from around the world. In fact, the show’s organizer and owner of many of the exhibiting brands, Geneva-based Richemont, reported that its retail sales increased 23 percent at constant exchange rates, excluding acquisitions, for the last quarter of

2010, and that its growth was broad-based, with the highest rate reported in the Asia-Pacific region.

Yet, retailers came not only from Asia (20 percent) but mainly from Europe (60 percent), with fewer numbers from North and South America (12 percent) and the Middle East (8 percent) to see the

latest products of the participating brands (A.Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JeanRichard, Girard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard

Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels).While “optimism” was the key word in terms of mood, the major trends in terms

of product were “minimalism” and “classicism” with many brands thinking “thin” this year. For a detailed explanation of these current trends in fine timekeeping at the SIHH, please see our sister publication, Europa Star, issue 1.11, which details many of the brands and their latest models. For this article, however, we take a look at those brands that (while they also offered important neoclassic models of prestige watchmaking) included examples of wonderfully creative high jewellery timepieces, studded with diamonds and coloured gems or masterfully decorated with enamel and other artistic crafts.While certainly a champion of the thin movement, Piaget also produces extraordinary bejewelled timepieces as well as beautiful jewellery. Continuing its Limelight Garden Party theme, the Geneva brand evokes

The private and prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) ended its 21st edition in January on a very optimistic note in Geneva, with trends in watches that favoured mostly a return to minimalism and classicism. Some brands, however, also offered amazing bejewelled timepieces.


SIHH 2011 – OPTIMISM AND NEOCLASSICISM

34

The 2011 edition of the SIHH dAfter all the uncert iof the

The private and prestigHorlogerie (SIHH) endeoptimistic note in Genevamostly a return to minimahowever, also offered ama

By Cynthi

SIHOPTINEOC

Multi-gemstone and diamond necklace in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

Rubellite, diamond, and emerald ring in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.

Diamond-set quartz watch in Cartier’s “Mille et une heures” collection.

White gold watch set with rubies, diamonds, sapphires, onyx, and emeralds in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

M A R K E T P L A C E

a luxuriant garden where cherry blossoms have emerald stems, a diamond rose savours a quiet moment, a bird pauses to inspect a pearl, emeralds and diamonds form the cases of elegant watches, and where rubellites are visited by diamond-set birds. Piaget is indeed a master in both haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie.Van Cleef & Arpels also excels in the realm of fine watchmaking with pieces that combine intricate mechanical complications with highly decorated dials and cases. Famous for its jewellery, the French brand’s bejewelled timepieces are equally as impressive. Among the collections this year, it features Les Voyages Extraordinaires, where remarkable watches, inspired by books by Jules Verne, are presented in white gold cases with translucent paillonné enamel. Equipped with an 800P automatic movement, groups of four of these watches are sold in a limited series of 22, and presented in an elegant wooden cabinet whose lid is decorated with various wood inlays. Van Cleef & Arpels has also expanded the travel theme to include “extraordinary” dials evoking a variety of places that Jules Verne described in Five Weeks in a Balloon, including animals found in Africa and Antarctica, as well as a number of underwater motifs. The brand ends its colourful and extraordinary journey with a sumptuous high jewellery piece, where flowers and leaves are made of emeralds and sapphires, creepers are composed of diamonds, and two small monkeys with tails of black onyx and diamonds are entwined in the branches. Cartier has also taken a journey through time with a spectacular collection of jewellery watches, entitled Mille Et Une Heures (1001 hours), comprising 30 timepieces. Recalling the times of ancient India and the architecture of its sculptured palaces, these high jewellery watches feature arabesque motifs. Another exotic collection is its Great Tradition of Artistic Crafts. For more than 160 years, Cartier has placed artistic crafts at the core of its pieces, and this year, the brand has created six new timepieces that reinterpret the dignity of these artistic crafts in stone mosaics, gold cloisonné enamel, intaglio engravings, and wood marquetry. This exceptional menagerie includes a tortoise, polar bear, leopard, hummingbird, monkey, and brown bear, all brought to life by the hands of the brand’s highly skilled craftsmen. On a different note, Cartier combines its high jewellery predilection and its taste for technical complications in its Tourbillon and Crocodile watch, thus adding a new dimension to haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. The overall ambiance at the SIHH was one of luxury, of course, but one brand created its own enchanting environment at the show—Baume & Mercier. The leitmotif of the brand’s communication is lifestyle, more specifically seaside living—“a way of life, which perfectly corresponds to the genuine values of conviviality, sharing, and durability” that are promoted by the watchmaker. Expressing this vision through family and friends,

35

Multi-gemstone and diamond brooch in Les Voyages Extraordinaires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

High jewellery watch by Cartier.

Diamond and emerald ring in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.

Diamond and emerald watch in the Limelight Garden Party collection by Piaget.

the brand’s booth convincingly reproduced a delightful and relaxing seaside resort in the Hamptons on Long Island in New York. In keeping with this theme, the brand presented a contemporary interpretation of two of its most celebrated collections, the Capeland and Linea, along with new and more stylish examples of Classima, all evoking Baume & Mercier’s new dictum: Life is about moments. Among these moments are lovely contemporary jewellery pieces in the Linea line. Richard Mille continues the use of coloured gemstones in certain models, but this year, he does so in a rather provocative fashion. The Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 026, in a limited series of 15, features a diamond-set white gold case that harbours two snakes writhing in and around the tourbillon movement while holding it in place. The serpents are made of rubies, emeralds, and diamonds set in white gold, with a red coral tongue. Why snakes? “Serpents in mythology have complex roles that can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties of the black onyx base plate, they however take on a protective role,” says the brand. Richard Mille also makes different versions of the coupled snakes, including other coloured gems, engraved stones, or enamelled bodies. Undoubtedly, this piece is an elegant way to unite the powers of Nature and the ingenuity of prestige timekeeping. Other brands at the SIHH also showcased beautiful jewellery versions of their main collections, such as Audemars Piguet with its elegant diamond-set Jules Audemars Selfwinding models, Girard-Perregaux with its lovely Vintage 1945 Lady crafted in pink gold set with diamonds and its graceful Cat’s Eye pieces with their sensual curves, the sparkling all-diamond-pavé case of Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Diamond Link watch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds, with a total of 12 different sized stones, and the bejewelled COSC-certified Excalibur Lady Jewellery by Roger Dubuis.As these exquisite examples demonstrate, fine jewellery and fine watchmaking can come together to create fine jewellery watches.

Ralph Lauren Stirrup Diamond Link watch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds.

36

M A R k E t P L A C E

Cartier’s tourbillon and Crocodile watch.

Vintage 1945 Lady diamond watch in pink gold by Girard-Perregaux.

Richard Mille tourbillon RM 026, featuring two bejewelled snakes wrapped around the tourbillon movement.

Leopard motif in Cartier’s Great tradition of Artistic Crafts watch collection.

Jewellery version of Audemars Piguet’s Jules Audemar Selfwinding watch.

Jewellery version in the Linea line by Baume & Mercier.

The international gold, gems, jewellery, and related equipment event at VicenzaOro First ended on a positive note with a record 19,000 first-time admissions and an 8-percent increase in foreign buyers plus an increase of 2.5 percent in Italian buyers over last year, who came to see the products of 1488 exhibitors from Italy and 30 foreign nations. Fair officials had more to be happy about than the increased participation of prospective buyers, and announced a number of initiatives aimed at helping the Italian jewellery industry, explaining, “with markets changing, the Italian jewellery sector must orient itself towards new directions. Craftsmanship, manufacturing, innovation, and new communication make up the competitive edge of the ‘Made in Italy’ label, representing the added values of Italian jewellery that will serve as a springboard for launching such excellence throughout the world.”

FDV 2011/15 The major change announced by the fair was a five-year strategy, called FDV 2011/15, whose goals are “consolidating the fair’s identity and focusing on the very essence of Italian jewellery, made of fine craftsmanship and research,

m a r k e t p l a c e

The first event in the VicenzaOro trilogy of trade fairs held in the historic Italian city of Vicenza opened its doors amid a general feeling of optimism for the sector and an ambitious program of new initiatives and major enhancements for the Italian jewellery industry.


VicenzaOrO First Opens Under the Banner OF innOVatiOn

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Gold, diamond, and gemstone bracelet by talento.

artist rendering of the new atrium for the future Vicenza fair.

Silver and diamond pendant by Bastian.

Gold and diamond “cleopatra” earrings by JJ Jewels.

“Silverfope” bracelet in an exclusive palladium and silver alloy by Fope.

renewing its own exhibition concept, and launching new initiatives with the intention of bringing excellent ‘Made in Italy’ products to markets worldwide. This ambitious plan is intended to confirm Fiera di Vicenza as not only a central element of the worldwide exhibition system with particular reference to the jewellery sector, but also as a place of aggregation for Italian excellence and as a generator of cultural contents, ideas, and visions capable of offering creative thrusts to businesses.”It is no secret that over the last few years, the Italian (and global) jewellery sector has suffered, mostly due to a drop in demand and an increase in the cost of gold. Encouraging signs of recovery for Italian jewellery exports came in 2010, and the trend seems to be continuing in 2011. To take advantage of this trend, the FDV 2011/15 project will focus on the overall renovation of the exhibition space, a powerful web presence, important collateral events, the creation of a real reference network, and the establishment of new infrastructures and fair formats aimed at specific market segments. “A change of route is necessary for a sector in profound evolution whose key words are coherence and concreteness,” stated Fiera di Vicenza chairman, Roberto Ditri.Corrado Facco, the fair director added, “Our aim is to become the main point of reference in Europe for jewellery alongside Basel and at the same time back up the fair events with initiatives that animate and stimulate the companies and the town: shows, events, and installations to involve the surrounding territory as is the case in the most modern fair events all over the world.”Another element in the fair’s future activities is its active collaboration with international organizations such as the United Nations Institute for Training and Research, CIBJO, and the Responsible Jewellery Council to promote corporate social responsibility and ethical mining and manufacture. “The guarantee of ethics along the entire supply line is a specific request of consumers, representing a strong element of the marketing mix and a fundamental competitive edge,” said fair organizers.

Design Directions The Nature theme was one of the main trends at this year’s fair, with snakes, butterflies, flowers, leaves, and the marine environment playing key roles. Colour was again prominent, continuing its trend in both gemstones and enamel, along with various colours of gold. Diamond jewellery, both white and fancy colours, remains a staple of Italian creativity, while silver has become the “new gold” as its glacial tonality is used to create elegant and fashionable designs. Freeform, organic, and textured looks continues to gain ground while rough stones, both diamonds and coloured gems, namely sapphires and emeralds, evoke a return to the natural environment. Lacy openwork pieces were seen in many collections, offering impressive pieces with lighter weights of precious metals.

39

Gemstone and gold “Boule” rings by chimento.

Black diamond and pink gold bracelet by mattia cielo.

Diamond and gold “Daphne” ring by casato.

Gold and gemstone ring by Nanis.

enamel and silver bead bracelet by Bliss.

Diamond and gold “Blooming” brooch by Zydo.

Gold and rutilated quartz ring by Giovanni Ferraris.

Ownership ChangesRichline Group, Inc.,

a wholly-owned subsidiary of USA-based

Berksh i re Hathaway Inc.,

announced the acquisition of Arezzo-based Rosato Srl. “This is a great opportunity for my brand to grow and expand globally. I am sure we will be able to

let the real Italian jewellery design be known and appreciated,” stated Simona Rosato. Richline president, Dave Meleski, added, “Simona Rosato and her team are the most innovative group in

Italy and, with our financial support, they will be able to again focus on product and brand innovation. Rosato will once again excite the market and enable their loyal customers to expand their own market share.”

On another note, Gitanjali Gems Ltd, India’s largest jewellery retailer, which had purchased Italian brand Valente Milano last September,

announced the acquisition of a 90-percent stake in Milan-based Giantti Italia S.R.L., through its Dubai-based wholly owned subsidiary Gitanjali Ventures DMCC. Its press release also indicated that it would “pay about $11 million for the Italian brands Stefan Hafner, IO Si, Porrati, and Nouvelle Bague grouped under the BLU Srl umbrella, with funds going to their creditors, and would inject another $10 million over a year into the companies. The brands were previously

owned by now bankrupt DIT Group, a unit of Dubai debt-laden jewellery group Damas International.”

Gem World and GlamroomNow staple components of the VicenzaOro scene,

the two sections of Gem World and Glamroom grouped together gem dealers and jewellery

designers, respectively, who showcased a wide variety of products. Among the many interesting Glamroom participants was

returning German brand Bastian, offering a selection of modern silver creations set

with diamonds, and Italian brand EcoJewel showcasing pieces made from enamel and precious,

recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing scraps). This year, EcoJewel also featured

elegant jewellery made from recycled gems taken from jewellery that was destined to be melted or dismantled—a perfect match for the brand’s recycled gold and silver.Vicenza will again be in the global spotlight for fine jewellery at its spring fair, May 21 to 25, 2011.

(www.vicenzafiera.it)

lacy gold necklace by Daniela Neri.

40


lacy gold cuff by Dml.

ebony, gold, and diamond bracelet by raffaella mannelli.

Gold mesh ring by the Fifth Season.

micro-mosaic, gemstone, and gold “cupola” ring by le Sibille.

Gemstone and recycled gold earrings by ecoJewel.

Natural sapphire necklace by Yvel.

During the month of February, the southern Arizona city of Tucson became the prime destination for gemstone and jewellery buyers and designers. The shows kicked off with the prestigious by-invitation-only Centurion jewellery event, which took place in an elegant resort hotel. Then, AGTA, GJX, GLDA, and AGGJS opened their doors to thousands of gem dealers and buyers—as well as an increasing number of jewellery designers—from around the globe. While these shows were limited to the trade, the rest of the city opened hotel rooms, tents, trailers, and just about everything else to the public, where thousands of collectors, connoisseurs, and the simply curious could shop for a wide variety of gemstones, minerals, fossils, sculptures, and just about anything else related to the world of stones.

Centurion, Laid-Back LuxuryCelebrating its tenth anniversary this year was Centurion,

a show that we could very well categorize as “Laid-Back Luxury.” In an ambiance that was warm, intimate, and relaxed, retailers were able to examine and purchase a wide variety of products from Centurion’s upmarket brands. And, it seems that purchase they did, this year, as the recovery gets underway. “Exhibitor and retailer reports coming

throughout and after Centurion 2011 reflected great satisfaction with this year’s event quality and results,” stated Centurion president Howard

Hauben, adding that show attendance was strong, and up “36 percent over the 2010 show.” It was also announced that next year’s

show will move to a location in the Phoenix area. Now in its second year, Centurion’s Emerging Designer contest produced six winners who were given display space at the show. They represented diverse facets of fine jewellery design from around the world, and offered retailers a look at new approaches and new faces. This year, Centurion also held its first Design Awards Competition, judged by retailers from all over the USA who voted for more than 80 exhibitor entries in 11 categories. “The calibre of creativity of each entry was simply amazing,” said Centurion President Howard Hauben, who added that it will become an annual event.

While many parts of the USA were buried in snow, jewellery brands and gem dealers came to the desert city of Tucson to showcase their products at a variety of events.


Jewels in the Desert

42

Zultanite and diamond earrings by Rhonda Faber

Green.

Multi-coloured gemstone earring by Bellarri.

Agate and diamond

pendant by S&R Designs.

Zultanite and diamond ring by Erica Courtney.

M A R k E t p l A C E

Amethyst and gold ring by Centurion Emerging Designer, William Belack

Diamond and eco-gold “Globo” earrings by

Garavelli.

Lots of ColourIn spite of the weather issues in much of the USA, the AGTA fair reported a five-percent increase in buyer attendance from last year. “It was nice to see an increase in traffic, but the real success of the show was the atmosphere on the show floor, with a significant upswing in buying activity,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO. Buying was reportedly strong for finished products as well as loose coloured stones as retailers realize the importance of adding colour to their product line-up as a way to improve profitability. Good interest and traffic was also seen in the Spectrum of Design Pavilion, outside of the main AGTA halls. Paula Crevoshay reported that this show’s traffic was higher than ever in the past, declaring that “The show proved to be the most successful from the last 30 years.”More international in nature, the GJX housed a wide range of gem dealers, jewellery manufacturers, small brands, and artisans, as well as national pavilions for many nations such as Germany and Brazil, among many others.

43

Mikado diamond and gold bracelets by A.link.

Rutilated quartz and black diamond earrings by Suna Bros.

platinum and pear-shaped diamond (34.22 cts) necklace by Uneek Jewelry (winner, Centurion’s

platinum category).

Silver necklace in the “Veritas” collection by Franco pianegonda.

platinum and diamond ring by Norman Silverman (winner, Centurion’s Bridal category).

Matching diamond wedding bands by Furrer-Jacot.

Yellow and white diamond bracelet by Goldstein Diamonds.

In terms of pearls, the traditional strands of all colours were in abundance, as were lariats mixed with gems and diamonds. A few necklaces of rare conch

pearls were seen at both Centurion and the gem shows. Among the more

unusual pearls that attracted attention were the very lightweight “Soufflé” pearls, so-named by Jack Lynch of Sea Hunt Pearls. He explained that these

large freshwater pearls are half the weight of the normal freshwater variety because they are hollow. He suggests that the pearl growers probably placed something in the pearl

sac—perhaps some sort of mud—that would dissolve and break down during the growth process, thus leaving a hollow but sturdy lighter weight pearl.

Just about every colour, size, shape, and cut of stone could be seen at these Tucson shows. While no

specific trend or colour was observed, there was a notable increase in rough and sliced coloured gems, from

emeralds to sapphires to diamonds, which designers will be quick to add to their “natural” finished jewellery collections that continue

to gain in popularity. Rutilated quartz in all colours was a favourite of many jewellers, as were the various hues of spinel and tourmaline.

The Turkish-mined zultanite was the focus of much attention at Centurion where a number of well-known jewellery designers used

this enigmatic colour-changing variety of the mineral diaspore in a range of beautiful creations.

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M A R K E T P L A C E

“Soufflé” pearl necklace by Sea Hunt, diamond clasp by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry.

Necklace in argentium sterling silver, forged and woven, with garnets by Centurion Emerging

Designer, Valerie Ostenak.

Golden pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by Centurion Emerging Designer, Kavant.

Raw diamond earrings by Todd Reed.

Paraiba and green tourmaline earrings by Golconda.

Conch pearl necklace by Tara.

Onyx and diamond ring by Umane.

The ShowThe IIJS Signature Show is particularly appreciated for its focus on precious jewellery, loose diamonds and coloured gemstones and its recent move from Goa to Mumbai has allowed the organisers to introduce new features to the show. A new “Signature Club” section is specially dedication to companies manufacturing

high-end jewellery, and a new International Pavilion exhibits international designers from around the world. Mumbai now represents the jewellery hub of India with two shows in January and August and confirms India’s place as a major player in the gem & jewellery industry.

Exports up an impressive 15.52 percentThe Indian jewellery industry showed a remarkable increase in exports in 2010

with figures up 15. 52 percent (US$ 37,118.42 million) compared to 2009, which was supported by a strong domestic market. In a face-to-face interview, Mr. Rajiv Jain, Chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and Mr. Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC Vice Chairman underlined that India embraces competition that will in turn help to encourage the Indian manufacturers to continue to increase their quality. “If we are good enough, we fear no other country,” explains Jain. The difficult economic situation had a positive effect as it obliged

more innovation and more creation. “The trend is less gold and more stones, the jewellery looks bigger and is less expensive,” he continues. Both Jain and Kothari are very confident in the role that the GJEPC can play on the world market, adding

The IIJS Signature 2011 opened its doors in its new Mumbai location this year for the 4th edition of this renowned international show. CIJ Trends & Colours’ Alexandra Montandon was there to follow events and discover new jewellery trends.

By Alexandra Montandon

IIJS SIgnature 2011 Show report


46

that the growing community will help the global market and as Jain explains, “As long as women are on earth, jewellery will always be worn.”

New initiativesOne of the Council initiatives is to bring together a pool of Indian artisans in workshops who will train under the guidance of international specialists. The goal is to help these artisans to complement their traditional crafts with more cutting edge techniques. ExhibitorsIIJS Signature 2011 registered 400 exhibitors with approximately 800 booths this year. Delegations from the UK, UAE, Thailand, Libya, Vietnam, Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan and Myanmar were all present. The feedback from the exhibitors was extremely positive; they all found the show to be a very good platform to meet customers. Some remarked that the new Mumbai show was more exclusive, with fewer people in the halls, but that there was far more time to sit down and discuss with retailers, which they appreciated. “India Show” at BaselWorld 2011An “India Show” will take place at BaselWorld 2011 with 60 Indian manufacturers in attendance. The Indian government has offered its complete support to the GJEPC and its presence at BaselWorld as part of a national government campaign to promote Indian culture at the global level.

BaselWorld will have a taste of India this year with Indian cuisine in the restaurant in Hall 6, traditional dance from different regions of India performed in front of Hall 1, and a presentation of high-end jewellery pieces in the India Gallery in Hall 2. So if you didn’t make it to Mumbai this year, don’t miss a selection of India’s finest artistic creations at BaselWorld.

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A. Link 43Aaron Basha 33Agatha Ruiz De La Prada 31Alberian & Aude 22Alexandre Herchcovitch 24Alpilex CIIIAntonini 19Aspire Designs 11, 21, 22, 33Assael Intl CII, 1, 21, 27, 32Audemars Piguet 36Autore 28, 32Bangkok Fair 41Bapalal Keshavlal 23, 9, 12Bastian 18, 38BCBG Max Azira 23Bellari 42BK Jewellery 17Bliss 39Bogh-Art 16Bosway 18Brioni 26Bruner 18, 29Cappellini 31Carla Amorim 22Carlos Campos 19Carlos Miele 27Cartier 34-36Casato 16, 28, 39Charlotte Ronson 14Chimento 39Chisato 30Christophe Guillarme 29Commelin 25, 32

Couture Show 45Cynthia Gale 16Daniel Espinosa 23Daniela Neri 40Daniela Swaebe 19David Lin Jades 19, 26, 28Diamond Shadows 27DML 40Dolce & Gabbana 20E&V Jewellery 20Eclat Jewels 30EcoJewels 40Elena Martinico 31Ella Moss 18Erica Courtney 42Etienne Perret 27, 29Fope 38Franco Pianegonda 43Frederick Goldman 27Furrer-Jacot 43Garavelli 27, 42Garel 24Gay Frères 20Geen G 18, 21Giovanni Ferraris 39Girard Perregaux 36GJEPC CIVGolconda 44Goldesign 12, 20Goldiaq 21, 29Goldstein Diamonds 43Gottex 33Guilherme Duque 30

Gumuchian 3, 19Heather Moore 25HH Gems 30Hidalgo 21ICA Congress Brazil 37IIJS 46-47Isaac Mizrahi 21, 28Isabelle Langlois 30Ivanka Trump 27Jewellery Theatre 23, 31Jewelmer 5, 8, 20JJ Jewels 38John Apel 22, 26Jolie B. Ray 16Jorg Heinz 18K. Brunini 26Kavant 44Kenzo 26Le Sibile 40Leaderline 29LeVian 23Lithos Jewelry 33, 44Lorenz Baumer 31, 33Lornie Mueller 33Luca Carati 22Luciano Padovan 20Luxenter 24Manoel Bernardes 20Manya & Roumen 32Marco Bicego 31Masriera 21Mathon Paris 16, 28Mattia Cielo 39

Meche 25Metalsmith Sterling 23Mi Piaci 14Mirella 26Misis 33Monique Lhuillier 19Naeem Khan 25Nanette Lepore 14Nanis 39Nary Manivong 12Norman Silverman 43Ole Lynggaard 23, 25Opera Omnia CI, 6-7, 16Oscar Heyman 32-33Paula Crevoshay 12Piaget 20, 34-35Pippo Perez 33Raffaella Mannelli 22, 40Ralph Lauren 36Ramon 10, 14, 22, 24, 28Rebecca Taylor 16Rhonda Faber Green 42Richard Mille 36Roberto Coin 24Rodney Rayner 19Rosato 25Rosy Blue 15Sakgen Denmark 18Salvini 25Scott Kay 26Sevan 14Staurino 29Stephen Webster 12, 32

Stuller 16Suna Bros 43Swarovski 13, 29Syna 27Talento 38Tara 44Tarditi 18The Fifth Season 19, 40Ti Sento 24Tibi 16Toby Pomeroy 18Todd Reed 44Tommy Hilfiger 18Tosca Blu 28Tresor 12, 30Tsumori 30Umane 44Uneek Jewelry 43Unicorn 21Utopia 18Vajra 20Valerie Ostenak 44Valerio B 14Van Cleef & Arpels 32, 34-35Vendorafa 19Vianna 14, 19William Belack 42Yael Designs 23, 31Yael Sonia 14Yvel 40Zîgman 22Zorab 21Zydo 39

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