THE INTERACTIVE GOOD LIFE MAGAZINE

WE’RE FREEAND ALWAYS WILL BE!

May 2012

Great results every time Easy Bread

Allotment Special

DISCOVER THE CITY COTTAGE ONLINE AT WWW.CITYCOTTAGE.CO.uk

Are our plots under threat?

YES YOU CANMake bacon!

Bee keepingPests

CONTENTS WELCOME3 News

4 Making Bacon and Ham

6 Letters

8 The City Cottage Garden

12 Cooking with Spinach

14 Muesli

16 Growing Cabbages

18 Allotment special

22 Making Brie

26 Easy Bread

28 Making Yoghurt

32 Caring for Chickens

36 Bee keeping: Pests

40 Hearty Puddings

42 Making Sausage

46 Recycling Fabrics

48 Raising Animals for food

50 Smoking Food

51 Mudlarks Allotment

54 Screw It! Garden Projects

Editor: Paul PeacockProduction Coordinator: Diana PeacockContributors: Darren Wright, Linda McDonald BrownDesigner: FirecatcherInformation is correct at time of press. The editors admit no responsibility for any injury, loss or damage incurred as a result of the advice in this magazine. The opinions expressed in these works are not necessarily the opinions of City Cottage. Check www.citycottage.co.uk for more details and back issues.

© 2012 City Cottage

All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole without permission is prohibited.

Submissions to: citycottage@me.com

MAYWe are so thrilled at your response to our magazine, so many of you have been so kind and shared it with your friends, groups, allotmenteers, for which you have our thanks - it really has been an

amazing couple of weeks watching the figures go through the roof, and talking to some of you who have sent emails and good wishes.

We are having a drive to get as many of you to sign up to our magazine each month, so that, when it comes out, it will be delivered directly into your email inbox, rather than relying on finding it through the web, so if you are able, please sign up for the next issues below.

City Cottage magazine will always be free to readers, and we hope to continue to bring you the information and stories you need to enjoy living the Good Life.

All the best, and keep digging!

Subscribe now!Get the City Cottage Mag straight to your inbox every month! Click here

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NEWS

Bringing back the British Black BeeBreeding programmes to help numbers.The Co-operative have been working with the Bee Improvement and Bee Breeders’ Association (BIBBA) to map locations of the native British black honeybee (Apis mellifera mellifera). These bees could hold the key to reversing the dramatic decline in honeybee numbers, as they have evolved characteristics that are suited to the UK’s climate, but experts had previously feared that the native black bees were now only found in remote northern areas.

A three year research project funded by The Co-operative and carried out by BIBBA has discovered that the British bee is seemingly alive and well across the uk, including parts of Southern England, East Anglia, Lancashire and North Wales, as well as in Scotland and Northern Ireland. The first round of testing which involved examining physical attributes such as abdominal colour, the length of body hair and the pattern of veins in the wings of bees in 117 hives across 40 locations will now be followed up with genetic analysis involving DNA testing.

Over the last ten thousand years, the native sub-species evolved thick black hair and a larger body to help keep it warm in our cooler climate, and a shorter breeding season to reflect the uk’s summer. This makes it less susceptible to the vagaries of the British weather which some experts suspect is a reason for a reduction in honeybees, nature’s most important pollinator, by up to 30 per cent in recent years.

Following the identification of a variety of viable native bee colonies across the uk, we will now fund a new breeding programme to increase the availability of native queen bees to beekeepers. The funding will support training to beekeepers with existing native colonies on queen rearing techniques and the purchase of nursery hives to support their production. The new colonies will be monitored by BIBBA to ensure that they retain their native characteristics.

Chris Shearlock, Sustainable Development Manager at The Co-operative, said: “The results of this research show that there are far more colonies of British bees than was thought and we can now move on to support a breeding programme which will hopefully increase the number of British bees and in turn help reduce the losses experienced in recent years.”

Terry Clare, President of BIBBA said: “We were pleasantly surprised to discover that there are more British bee populations than we suspected and this will hopefully persuade many more beekeepers to use British bees.

City Cottage is proud to announce we have our own black bee program, again funded by the Co-operative. We are rearing queens, and during this summer we will have news of the progress. It’s really exciting to see how these wonderful bees get on!

The British Black Bee: declining numbers

GRANDMA’S WAYS FOR MODERN DAYSby Paul & Diana Peacock

252 pages, paperback

Techniques for preserving food, keeping hens and bees, growing vegetables and fruit, making your own cosmetics and a host of other things will bring us not only closer to the products we enjoy, but closer to benefiting from the work we do for ourselves.Click here to buy from Amazon

Book

sIT’S FREE

EASY BACON

Modern living is a bit of a thief; because you can go to the supermarket and buy all kinds of produce, cheese, cooked meats, pickle - everything; most people think that’s how it’s done. Bacon, for example comes wrapped in plastic, in some mysterious process that we ordinary householders would never actually be able to recreate.

Indeed, such is the now ingrained attitude of people after two generations of supermarket shopping, anyone wanting to do it for themselves are considered slightly mad.

WHY MAkE YOuR OWN?

Going to the supermarket (not everyone has their own pig) and buying a piece of pork to cure is a great thrill - knowing what it’s for and probably you are the only person in that shop who will make their own

food from raw materials. But the real reason is flavour and health.

FLAVOuR

You cannot beat the flavour of your own cured products. There is no way that shop bought comes anywhere near as good. If you don’t believe me, give the bacon recipe a try. It is so easy, so flavoursome and so healthy.

AND IT’S CHEAP!

For the cost of the wet, insipid, chemical laden products you can buy from the supermarket, you can have the very best food around. Maybe you don’t save a fortune, but you do gain in quality. You can make bacon that would cost £15 a kilo for about £5.00 - and yes, I know, you can buy cheap bacon - but compared to this home made stuff, you wouldn’t want to eat it.

YES YOU CAN

Make bacon and hamPaul Peacock shows us how to make the most delicious bacon in even the smallest kitchen, at a fraction of the price of the supermarkets

2 Bay Leaves1 tbsp mustard seed1/2 teasp black peppercorns1 teasp whole cloves 1/4 tsp allspice1/2 teasp ground ginger1/4 teasp cardamom seeds1 Cinnamon stick100 g chopped cranberries

Give all the dry ingredients a good crack with the pestle so the cinnamon stick can be handled with a spoon and the flavours leach out, and store in an airtight container if you are not going to use them straight away.

The cure makes a gallon, or 4.5 litres, and you’ll be surprised how quickly this goes, especially if you have a big piece of meat.

The cure is made of two parts, the salt and the pickle. It kills bacteria that would spoil your food, and in the case of ham - which consists of a solid piece of meat where botulism can develop deep inside, special curing salt stops it in it’s tracks. Curing salt has saltpeter added to it for this extra safety, and is fairly essential when curing a number of products. It also has a distinctive flavour.

You make up the cure for your pork as follows:

1.5 kg curing salt4.5 litres (1 gallon) water125g sugarAdd all the pickle spices as above

If you have a very large piece of meat I would normally insist you injected cure directly into the muscle too. You can buy special syringes called brine pumps that allow you to get cure right into the very centre of the meat.

ABOuT THE MEAT

The meat is probably best as a lean pork loin, or boned leg. If you do not have your own pig to slaughter, buy from a proper butcher who can guarantee the meat has not been frozen. If you buy from the supermarket, ask the butchery department if the meat has been frozen, or is it safe to be frozen, this way you will know if the meat is fresh.

Also, at the supermarket (and most butchers these days) your piece of pork is usually rolled and tied into what we call a joint. If this is so, unroll it and cure it flat. This way the cure will work its way into the whole piece, and will probably easily permeate the fill muscle too.

Cool the cure by keeping it in a cold fridge overnight. I use a plastic bucket with a sealable lid to do the curing in, which takes around 7 days. If you have any cure left over remove some of the spent cure and replace with the fresh after 3 days. The meat will have changed in both colour and consistency to a greyish pink

COOkING YOuR HAM

There are a number of recipes but I prefer to boil it for an hour then remove from the water and smear it with honey and push cloves into the flesh. Then I roast it for an hour, when the sugar in the honey has melted, toffeed and burned into a really lovely, sticky mess.

In all meat cooking of cured products I would advocate the use of a meat thermometer where you can guarantee the centre of the meat has been heated to 75°C for at least 15 minutes. If you are cooking a large ham it is probably best to use a meat thermometer.

MAkE YOuR OWN BACONYou may have guessed the problem with curing a large piece of meat is getting access to the very centre of it. Normally, bacon is made from a large piece of meat - cured and then sliced for cooking. However, what if you sliced it before you cured it. You would now have access to the centre of the meat in every slice!

So, imagine you have a kilo of meat, sliced into 20 ‘rashers’. you can cure each piece of meat individually and get the very best bacon in the world.

ORDINARY SALT

Since this bacon is not going to have to last long, you can use ordinary kitchen salt if you wish, but you get a better flavour with curing salt.

THE CuRE

The simpler the better. Most bacon is 2.75% salt. We are going to make a 1% salt cure. That is a low salt cure. For every kilo of meat mix 2 level teaspoons (10g) of salt and two heaped teaspoons of brown sugar.

Lay out your rashers on a tray and evenly sprinkle them with the cure mix, covering only one side.

Pile the slices on top of each other and then place them on a plate, cover and leave overnight in the fridge. In the morning, you have bacon - that’s all there is to it!

HOME MADE HAM “You can buy curing salt from butchers supplies. Weschenfelder supplies it at about the same cost as ordinary salt. Simply click on their name to find out more”

COMpETiTiONSend us your bacon curing pictures and the top ten will receive one of Paul andDiana’s books as a prize.

Email your pics to: citycottage@me.com

We have had a lot of questions about keeping bees in your garden, there is obviously a lot of interest in this incredibly rewarding occupation. A common query is will my neighbours be freaked out by my bees and kath Mellor’s question was about this very thing:

Dear City Cottage,My greatest wish has always been to keep bees. But living in an inner city flat made it impossible. But we have just moved to a small house with quite a big garden and would love to fulfil my dream. We have a long thin garden with quite high hedges and the end backs onto other gardens of a similar size. Would it be possible do you think? Thanks for an excellent magazine.

KATh MELLOR, hANDSWORTh, BiRMiNGhAM

Paul says:Your garden sounds ideal in many ways. The high hedges will force the bees to fly upwards so the neighbours won’t ever be bothered by them. But i would still talk to them about your project and make sure you join a local bee-keeping society as you will get insurance to cover any claims against you and your bees. Make sure before you get them that you get some training and some support from experience keepers. They will advise you on equipment and the type of bees you will need as a beginner.

Phil Davenport has been having problems with his sausages bursting:

Dear City Cottage,I bought your sausage book and have been making my own sausages for a few weeks. I have been using collagen skins. When they cook, they always seem to burst, they taste good but look a mess. Have you any tips?

phiL DAvENpORT, hERTFORD

Paul says:Try using hog or sheep casings as they are tougher and withstand cooking better than the collagen ones. But if you do wish to use the collagen ones make sure they are kept very wet when filling them and don’t over fill them.

Leave them for a few hours in a cool place before cooking. But if you store them in the fridge remove them about 30 minutes before cooking. This will stop them from bursting. Make sure the light isn’t too high under the pan or cook them in the oven or under a medium a grill.

LETTERS

Thank you so much to all our readers for your wonderfully supportive comments. We are growing in numbers by the day and are very excited about this latest issue. We have had many questions from you about lots of subjects all to do with being that little more self-sufficient. it is interesting for us to read how many excellent tips and ideas you have and like to share with us. We would like to make this a feature in future issues, so send any ideas that you think might benefit our readers to: citycottage@me.com We will use your ideas in our next issues.

Letters

Write to us at:

citycottage@me.com

Buy online: www.weschenfelder.co.ukor contact Rob: (01642) 247 524

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The CityCottage Garden

May report

Paul gets out and about in the garden whilst the weather is fine

CiTY COTTAGE GARDEN

There is so much to be doing in the garden in May. You can sow both indoors and out, and you are, almost at the same time, planting out seedlings - such as cabbages and other brassicas. That plus potatoes, cutting the grass and the hedges, potting on tomatoes, peppers and the need of salads makes for a pretty crazy month’s work.

We have finally got busy planting out our cabbage seedlings, but living in a wood it has been difficult to really decide where to grow them. The polytunnels are on the north side of the house, in the wood, and this is fine for growing salads, indeed they are doing very well.

So the only same place which has a modicum of light is next to the septic tank. This area was used for growing strawberries, and we decided to move them. Actually, the strawberries will be placed in tubs and perched on the top of the garden wall, where hopefully they will begin to bear fruit.

Again, strawberries need lots of light, but we might find they are just going to produce rather dark leaves. Plants do produce darker leaves when they have to grow in weak light, in an attempt to get as much light as possible.

So, out come the strawberries, and they will be moved on - they are quite tough plants and will withstand a couple of days out of the soil with no problem at all.

Quite obviously, the soil has not been touched for ages. There isn’t a worm in sight! The soil is very dark, but compacted, wet but not clay, the kind of soil you get when it simply hasn’t been touched for a long time.

I have to confess to a problem, well, for a gardener it’s a problem. I like weeds, save one. That pink geranium you get that grows everywhere, reproduces by a rhizome, seeds itself and is really difficult to get out of the ground. Well we have tons of it. The only consolation is the hens love it. But the others I love,

especially pennywort which is indicative of a wet soil.

There is also a lot of Herb RobertI am delighted to find out more about this plant. It is said to fight cancer, though I am not sure about it. However, it is also said to help diabetes. This is an important thing for me, since I am fighting it myself. A few leaves in a cup of hot water, left to soak is said to be the right dose, and should be sipped unsweetened.

I do know it is a good astringent, and goes a long way to helping the immune system too. A gargle with the tea is said to be good with mouth ulcers and sore throats.

Another thing about herb Robert is they always make the plants around you grow more strongly, who says plants don’t communicate in the ground?

Having weeded and moved the strawberries, we are going to town making a fine tilts for the seedlings. The

cabbages have been hardened off and taken a few nights of freezing temperatures without problems, so now it is time to plant them out.

Normally I would use a lot of lime when planting brassicas. It really helps to keep the club root to a manageable level. However, I know for a fact that the soil here has never had brassicas in them before - apart from the Shepherds Purse, a member of the family. This means the soil should be free of club root.

One of the best ways of dealing with club root is not to walk on the soil - its spread on your boots.

It’s almost warm enough to sow outside all over the garden, so we are on guerrilla tactics - any space not covered with grass,

The Goosegobs are flowering!

My tiny trowelfor weeding

CiTY COTTAGE GARDEN

CiTY COTTAGE GARDEN

or crops or flowers is being nuked with seeds. We are growing salads of all kinds, carrots, turnips, all kinds of stuff. The way to the most out of the land is to cram produce in. It doesn’t matter if it’s only a small corner, it will provide a lunch or some salad, or some extras for the hens. Short of that what ever doesn’t grow to maturity or is not worth

eating will go on the compost heap. Of course, this means we have to go round thinning out, but I can’t think of a better thing to do on a warm afternoon, with a brew waiting on the wall!

SpiNACh

i love spinach, but when i was growing up, my Mum would never cook it because she said it went to nothing. The first time i really tasted it was when paul and i were on holiday in Majorca soon after we were married. We had a wonderful meal in a small restaurant and we both had monkfish. it was served with delicately cooked spinach and ever since then i love to serve fish with spinach. Our eldest son, Joel always loved as a child as he thought it made him strong like popeye.

Spinach really is good for you, not only is it a rich source of vitamins A ,B, C, E, and K, it contains minerals such as magnesium and zinc which are good for the skin as well as folic acid which is recommended for women through their pregnancy. Spinach, along with other green vegetables, is packed full of iron, having more in it than a beefburger!

i like to add spinach to most dishes, usually to curries and pasta sauces at the end of cooking and just before serving, for colour and vitamin content. The frozen version can also be used in this way. The small picked leaves make an excellent salad addition and Eggs Florentine just wouldn’t be the same without spinach.

GROWiNG SpiNACh

Spinach is easy to grow, and if you plan properly you can have it all the year round. Successional sowing every couple of weeks is the key.

Sow in large pots in February and March and keep them in a greenhouse or away from frost. i frequently use a wig wam of clear polythene, like a cloche.

Late April and May you can sow in beds in the garden plot. Sow every two weeks until September, and you can harvest right through until November.

Don’t over fertilise spinach, it collects nitrates and can be dangerously loaded. Keep the nitrate level to last year’s potato patch.

What’s Green and Good For You?Diana Peacock tells us the answer is SPINACH

Spinach is good for you, and contains 5 vitamins as well as being packed with iron and folic acid

SpiNACh OMELETTE

i serve this with a sprinkling of grated cheese whatever i have in the fridge. But my favourite is small cubes of feta, the salty flavour goes so well with the spinach.

This serves 2 people

2 large handfuls of spinach leaves2 tablespoons sunflower or olive oil1 small onion, finely chopped1 clove garlic, chopped6 eggs, beaten lightlySalt and pepper30-50g grated cheese of your choice or cubed feta

1. Blanche the spinach in boiling water for about a minute or until it just wilts. Drain of all water and leave to one side.

2. heat the oil in a deep sided frying pan and fry the onion gently with the garlic until soft.

3. Add the spinach and stir into the onion mixture.

4. Season the beaten eggs with a little salt and pepper to taste and pour over the spinach and onion mixture.

5. Cook over a medium heat until the egg is just set.

6. Sprinkle over the cheese and pop under the grill for 1-2 minutes to set the top of the omelette and melt the cheese a little. Serve with a salad and some crusty bread.

CREAMED SpiNACh

A delicious addition to any table, especially good with roast beef.

Serves 4

1 small onion, finely chopped30g butter200g fresh spinach leaves150ml single cream25g plain flourNutmeg for grating

1. Melt the butter in a large frying pan and soften the onions. Keep them moving so they don’t burn. Add the flour and cream gradually and whisk gently until mixed.

2. place the spinach in a large colander and cover with boiling water to wilt. pat the spinach dry (you will need to squeeze it between a clean tea towel).

3. Chop the spinach and add to the cream sauce, stirring gently. Grate the nutmeg on top and serve hot.

hADDOCK & SpiNACh BAKE

ideally this is made with monkfish but it can be made with any inexpensive white fish.

Serves 4

3 large potatoes, peeled and sliced thinlyknob of butter 1 tablespoon oil1 small onion, chopped100ml white wineAbout 700g haddock or similar white fish, cut into chunks3 large handfuls spinach leaves150ml double creamSalt and pepper to taste1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1.Butter a deep oven proof dish and preheat the oven to 200C/ gas mark 6.

2.Boil the potatoes for 5 minutes in salted water then drain well. Leave to cool whilst you prepare the fish.

3. Melt the butter and oil together ina a pan and add the onion cook over a gentle heat until the onion is soft.

4. Add the white wine and stir well.

5. Add the chunks of fish and poach for a few minutes until the fish is just cooked.

6. Stir in the spinach and cook until it just wilts.

7. pour in the cream and stir well. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley.

8. Spoon the fish mixture into the prepared dish and layer the potatoes over the top. Season with a little more salt.

9. Bake for about 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes begin to brown.

To help the potatoes brown more quickly spray or brush the top with a little oil before seasoning.

i like to serve this with green beans or peas.

hOMEMADE MUESLi

When i first started to do this, i read all the ingredients on the sides of the shop bought products and tried to emulate them. But soon realised all you need is some porridge oats dried fruit and a little sugar if you wish. Other things like dried powdered milk may be added but it doesn’t make much difference to the finished muesli.

You can add wheat flakes or bran flakes if you wish but i find it just pushes up the price of what is a much cheaper way of eating delicious muesli.

TipS FOR MAKiNG YOUR OWN MUESLi:

Have an large airtight container to store your muesli in. I use a plastic container with a clip on lid.

If you are watching your sugar intake, when choosing your fruit check to see if it is sweetened, as some dried fruit like cherries and cranberries are previously sweetened.

When serving the muesli, add the milk and stir well and leave for a few minutes. The milk brings out the creamy oat milk and gives the muesli a better flavour.

i make my muesli in the container i am storing it in so it couldn’t be simpler.

BASiC MUESLi

To make approximately 1.5kg muesli:

1kg porridge oats, if you buy a basic one it costs around 97p and still tastes good400g dried fruit 100g of nuts of your choice1-2 tablespoons golden caster or soft brown sugar, this is optional

TRiED AND TESTED RECipES

A QUiCK BASiC FRUiT AND NUT vERSiON

1 kg porridge oats100g each of raisins , sultanas, chopped dates and chopped apricots50g flaked almonds50g chopped mixed nuts

ALL FRUiT vERSiON

1kg porridge oats150g mixed sultanas, golden ones are delicious and you can buy a mixed bag of them150g raisins50g dried cranberries50g dried cherries50g dried chopped mango50g dried pineapple

ExTRA FRUiT vERSiON

This is my favourite as i put more fruit in and it can be anything you like.

1kg porridge oats100g dried apple100g sultanas100g raisins100g chopped dates100g chopped apricots50g dried cranberries50g dried cherries100g desiccated coconut

A NUTTY ONE

1kg porridge oats150g raisins150g sultanas50g chopped dates50g dried apple50g whole almonds50g whole hazelnuts50g whole brazils50g flaked coconut

Add a little sugar if you wish but you can always serve it with a little sugar so everyone can enjoy the muesli. You can add your own fruits and favourite nuts as you wish there are no hard and fast rules. But i am sure you will never bother buying ready made muesli again.

Make yourown Muesli

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Garden answers full page May 2010 10/5/12 14:12 Page 1

Cabbages for WinterGet them in now for a fantastic winter crop, says paul peacock

Cabbages are the staple food for this country, and have been long before potatoes took their place. They are full of sulphur compounds (hence the unfortunate after smell) that are very good for you. A portion of cabbage is very similar - in health terms - to taking garlic, the sulphur chemicals acting like nature’s own antibiotic.

in order to grow cabbages for later in the year, you need to start now.it is possible to have cabbages all year round (indeed, there is a variety called

‘All Year Round’, which can almost be sown and harvested at any time of the year). Winter cabbages, such as ‘Savoy’, can be sown in the spring, but they do better in the warmer months of May and June – giving you a crop six to seven months later.

SOWiNG iN DRiLLS

Normally, my preferred method of sowing cabbage is in 8 cm pots, filled with compost to which a lot of lime has been added. The young plants can be grown to planting out size (about 6in), again into well-limed soil. Winter cabbages can be sown in a drill,(that is a row in the soil) a couple of seeds every 18in. As the seedlings grow you can thin them to one per station and these will then grow on nicely. it is a good idea, if you can, to use a cloche over the young

plants to protect them from cold, even in June. The cloche also protects them from pests – pigeons, slugs, snails and mice are all hungry for young cabbage seedlings. Each row should be 2ft apart.

The earlier you sow your cabbage the earlier crop you get. it is possible, by sowing in April to have a crop by November. Cabbages sown in June will

be ready from the end of December. if you are going to sow in the spring, i advise you sow in pots under cover and then transplant them at the end of May.

When you are planting out cabbages grown in pots, use

a bulb planter and take out a plug of soil. Replace this with compost that is 70% compost, 30% lime. plant into this and the cabbages should be free from the worst of clubroot.

GROWiNG CABBAGES

For cabbages throughout the seasons, try the ‘All Year Round’ variety, which can be sown and harvested at any time

pROTECT pLANTS

At one time we had all kinds of problems keeping pests away. We used chemicals, mostly to keep butterflies (and their caterpillars, of course) off the crop. They also suffer from greenfly and whitefly. The very best way of keeping these pests at bay is to cover them with horticultural fleece. You can get a number of grades of mesh, the finest of which keeps the smallest insect off your crops. Yet at the same time, it lets plenty of light through for plants to grow, and you can water through it.

The fleece provides a microclimate, which protects the plants from winds, and it is about the only way to keep the plants free from the ravages of marauding hens as well as dogs and cats with leaky bladders.

They need to be kept fairly weed free. Cabbages are susceptible to root contact and do not grow as well where the roots have to compete with other plants in the same soil. They tend to bolt in these conditions – something found when you put them in small pots. Growing cabbages in pots smaller than 12in will stop them from balling up.

FERTiLiSER

Cabbages do well if they have a little fertiliser during the growing period. They like good, hearty soil, but if you can give them a handful of other fertiliser when they are growing, being organic or otherwise, they will certainly come on a treat. Cabbages do well after potatoes – the soil is spongy and full of manure still, even though the spuds have taken a lot of the nutrients.

SAVOY

This is a great cabbage, with wrinkly leaves. It is brilliant at soaking up gravy, and for this reason it is my favourite. It grows best in the heavier soils, and its flavour is improved by frost. Consequently, it is grown in the north of the country.

HIGHLAND

Matures in October, and, as the name suggests, is grown in the far north.

NOELLE

This is an F1 variety, which is very productive. Somewhat similar to ‘January king’, but is more productive.

JANuARY kING

This is another excellent variety, which produces a good hard head. Great in salads, and can be sown right into the summer.

CHRISTMAS DRuMHEAD

A smaller cabbage (well, you don’t always want a whopper) that is full of flavour. Great for growing in pots.

TuNDRA

You just can’t go wrong with this one; it is very reliable and forgiving. You can sow from April to June and get crops from November to April. With this cabbage there is no such thing as the hungry gap.

WINTER CABBAGE VARIETIESFind the best winter varieties for you and don’t hesitate, get them in the ground today for greenry on those long cold nights

A WORD ONCOMpOSTiNG

i tend not to compost cabbage roots or leaves. if you have a clubroot problem on your plot, you will only spread it further in the compost. Also, they are quite fibrous and will take ages to rot. You might as well get a bit of warmth from them if you have a fire.

HARVESTING CABBAGES

Wait for the heads to be firm. Give them a squeeze and if they feel firm, cut them out of the soil with a sharp knife. Once removed, dig out the roots, which will remain alive in the soil and try to recuperate from decapitation by taking a lot of nutrients.

Ensure cabbages are weed free for the best results as they are susceptible to root contact

it might be the state of the economy, it might be the demand for space, or perhaps it is that somewhere in the country there are large companies interested in expansion. perhaps it’s because we are all a little more sensitive to these things. But...

Are there more cases of allotments being under threat than there used to be?

Last year the government did a ‘U’ turn about changing a law relating to allotments. The Allotments Act which stated a local authority had a statutory obligation to provide enough allotments for their rate payer’s needs. if a certain number lobbied the council, they had to act.

But headlines like:

Town hall bosses sell 50,000 allotments off for redevelopment while grow your own demand soars

make you think there is fat chance of that ever happening, actually quite the reverse. So we set up a web page and started a campaign, and got it in the Daily Mirror and the government caved in. But there are so many instances of disappearing allotments one wonders if they are close to becoming an endangered species.

The demand certainly is thereit is a common enough tale - everywhere you go people are crying out for allotments. Today 59 people are waiting for every 100 plots, in contrast to 1996 when there was an average of four people waiting for every 100 plots, and it may take ten years to get to the front of the queue.

There are lots of examples of local authorities building new allotment plots. Actually, it is harder than

ALLOTMENT SpECiAL

Are welosing the plot?Allotments to be sold off for re-development? Where will it end?

you think to create an allotment - there are so many factors involved, and often in the city the process can be held up for years by what might seem to be silly objections, planning difficulties, soil sample reports and a myriad others.

But the sad truth is the council is probably mostly strapped for cash and simply doesn’t have a clue how to get round the problem of paying for schools, social services, roads and everything else - gardening ( ... that’s all it is to them at least, gardening) comes pretty low on the agenda, if at all.

So what is happening out there?

ShOCKiNG RENT RiSES

There are lots of examples of councils putting the cost of an average plot up by 300%.

Recently, Southampton Council was taken to court by one plot holder, where the judge agreed that increases of 60% were far too high. in effect, he said the council

could not disproportionately increase the rent of allotments when other services in the borough had not risen so much.

But there are huge increases in fees around the country.

Birmingham council increased rents from £22 to £30 this year and then to £50 next.

Canterbury propose to double the rents this year.

Bletchley council are reported to be removing the subsidy discount for retired plot holders.

Runcorn are proposing to increase from £31 to £100 - 300% increase.

Barnet are said to be increasing rents by 400%

There are tales around the country, Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Cardiff, Bath - it seems that plot holders are now being seen as rich pickings to make the books balance.

DEvELOpMENT LAND

One point of view about allotments i have heard is that they are basically unfair. The value of the land they occupy is huge in relation to the value of the produce gained from them. Urban land can have a value of millions per acre, so you can see how local authorities can be tempted into selling land, signing over plots to development companies, using it for other purposes, parks, amenity and so forth.

in Ashton Under Line there has been an allotment site ‘on the books’ for years. When you go onto the allotment page on the council website it was posted as ‘no vacancies available’. however, the truth of the matter was this site was completely undeveloped. it wasn’t an allotment site with plots, just bare grassland.

So local allotmenteers from a neighbouring site did a trespass. They occupied the site and started a campaign not only of cultivating the land, but called for reparations to be made for the neglect of the land.

ALLOTMENT SpECiAL

The value of the land they occupy is huge in relation to the value of the produce gained from them. Urban land can have a value of millions per acre, so you can see how local

authorities can be tempted into selling land

The Manchester Evening News takes up the story...

A group of guerilla gardeners fighting for allotments have claimed squatters rights on a piece of land which they say should be theirs. The group claim the land, on Ashton Moss, Tameside, was promised for 70 allotments after the building of the M60 motorway wiped out hundreds of existing plots.

But more than a decade later the gardeners say they are tired of waiting so have taken matters into their own hands. Every Saturday they go to work, clearing and cultivating the site despite it being private property. Nigel Rolland, from Tameside Green party, is leading the environmentally-friendly protest at the land off Rayner Lane. he said: “This land was promised to people on the waiting list for allotments. “They were told it was a matter of months, they were just getting things ready, but we are still waiting. Some of the people who used to be on Ashton Moss have actually died waiting for new allotments.

“We can’t say who is responsible but meanwhile allotments are being denied to the people of Tameside and we would be damaging it to leave it any longer. “We have already cleared a large area and we intend to continue to cultivate the land. “We would like anybody who is on the list for Ashton to contact the council and to come and see what we are doing. We will be there every Saturday from 10am.” More than 700 people are currently on a waiting list for allotments in Tameside which the council is obliged to try and provide.

Almost half of those - 348 - want a plot on Ashton Moss but the land is privately owned by Stayley Developments Ltd. A council spokeswoman said: “The council is aware of the desire for more allotments in Ashton and the development plan for Ashton Moss provides for the provision of allotments. “The development is however yet to be completed and the land remains in private ownership.”

A spokesman for Cordingleys Chartered Surveyors and Estate Agents, which acts on behalf of Stayley Developments, said: “The site owner has been in continued negotiations with Tameside council. “At present a conclusion has not been reached regarding the deliverability of the allotments. “Stayley are legally not as liberty to offer any of the site of allotment use as contractual terms restrict their control.

“We are hopeful that a positive conclusion will be forthcoming in the short term.” Ashton Mp David heyes said: “There is a big demand for allotments in Tameside so the 70 plots promised on Ashton Moss will be very welcome. “it’s disappointing that there has been a delay in getting on with preparing the site “i believe the council is still supporting the development and i will be doing what i can to encourage them to take the scheme forward as quickly as possible.”

Email us at citycottage@me.com with your allotment stories, comments, or queries

Click to buy fromAmazon

THE ALLOTMENT MANUAL

Author: Paul PeacockHardcover: 176 pagesPublisher: J H Haynes & Co Ltd (1 Mar 2012)£11.87 on Amazon.co.uk

This book is not about how to grow vegetables, though you will find many instances and examples. Actually it celebrates the community of allotments by discussing all the roles needed to make a really excellent, outward looking allotment site. Consequently, you will find information on how to raise money, put on a show, keep a tool safe and all the myriad jobs needed to keep a modern allotment.

ADvERTiSEMENT FEATURE

Spring is in the air and it’s time to give your house and garden a bit of an overhaul after the harsh winter.if your annual home and garden MOT usually involves the arduous and potentially dangerous task of clearing your gutters and drains, then hedgehog Gutter Brush is on hand to make this a thing of the past!

if your home is surrounded by trees, or even if your next door neighbour has trees, you’ll be only too aware of the damage and destruction that blockages in your gutters, drains and downpipes can cause due to the build-up of leaves and twigs.

hedgehog Gutter Brush is a cost-effective, innovative device that eliminates the need to call on a professional gutter and drain cleaner at huge expense or for homeowners to carry out maintenance of their gutters on a regular basis.

hedgehog works by simply preventing leaves, twigs and other debris such as birds or rodents from entering the gutter, while allowing rainfall to flow freely through your gutters. So no more blocked rain systems and overflowing gutters or expensive fees for unblocking drains!hedgehog is manufactured from hard wearing Uv resistant polypropylene brush filaments spun around a steel wire spine. it’s virtually indestructible, requires no maintenance and will keep gutters clear year on year. The clever device automatically adapts to the shape

of almost any type of gutter, fits around corners and down pipe outlets and can be simply and quickly fitted in just minutes - without the need for specialist installation.

hedgehog can also be used to prevent clogged garden and pathway drains, eliminating problems with water overflowing and creating dangerous and hazardous surfaces. it creates a barrier below the surface of the drain cover which prevents debris from entering and causing blockages.

hedgehog Gutter Brush retails at just £14.99 for a standard 4mtr x 100mm brush and is available in black, brown or white. The product comes with a 10 year guarantee and is available from most good Builders Merchants and DiY outlets nationwide.

GUTTER ClUTTER FACTS:Homeowners can save on average £100.00 per year against the cost of professional gutter clearance with Hedgehog.

Hedgehog can save the average householder 30 hours per annum against manually clearing their gutters and drains.

In most cases, the cost of fitting Hedgehog Gutter Brush to homeowner’s gutters and drains is less than the average cost paid per annum to have them professionally cleaned.Hedgehog can pay for itself in the first year of installation.

Spring cleaning your guttersKeeping your gutters clear can help your house as well as your pocket!

COMpETiTiON

Want to know more? Buy the Book!Paul and Diana Peacock have written almost 30 books on Gardening, Cookery and Self Sufficiency topics, helping you to live a slice of the Good Life, wherever you live. Click on a title to buy direct from Amazon.

Amazon price £6.79 Amazon price £6.79 Amazon price £9.09

WIN!

1 of 20 packs of Celebration Duck Tape!Duck Tape has launched an innovative new Union Jack designed cloth tape just in time for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics and will make a great addition to any toolbox or garden shed.

Super-strong, super-sticky multipurpose Duck Tape is suitable for literally 1000’s of uses

and can be used to fix, repair, seal, patch and protect for a host of gardening and DiY applications.

We’ve 20 packs to give away. To win, email us a picture of your garden, plot or pots in May to citycottage@me.co.uk, along with your name and address to be in with a chance of winning! Good Luck!

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EASY BREAD

Easy Bread MakingDiana Peacock shows how easy home baked bread can be...

Making your own bread is one of the great pleasures in life. i always encourage people who have never made it before to have a go as it is so easy. You can buy so many different brands and types of flour in the supermarkets, i have used expensive brands and supermarkets own and they all give good results. Fast action dried yeast can also be bought in the supermarket, so if you have never made your own it couldn’t be easier. With fast action yeast you only need to knead and prove once. Why not have a go at one of our easy recipes that give great results...

SIMPlE WHITE lOAF

Makes 2-3 loaves

INGREDIENTS1kg strong white flour2 teaspoons salt, either rounded or level depending on your taste2 x 7g sachets fast-action dried yeast750ml warm water, it must be warm not hot or the yeast will be killed2-3 tablespoons olive, sunflower or rapeseed oil

1. Either grease a large baking sheet or line it with silicone baking paper.

2. Sieve the flour and salt together into a large mixing bowl.

3.Stir in the yeast.

4.Make a well in the centre of the flour and pour in half the water and the oil.

5. Mix together with a wooden spoon and continue to add more water until the dough becomes moist but manageable. it is better to have a sticky, moist dough than a dry one, as the dough rises better

and gives a softer texture when it is cooked.

6. if the dough is too sticky simply sprinkle in a little more flour.

7 .Use your hands to bring the dough together into a ball.

8 .Begin kneading in the bowl then transfer to a floured work surface.

9. Knead by pulling and folding the dough over itself, don’t be tempted to turn the dough over, keep kneading in the same direction to give a smooth dough. Continue kneading for 10 minutes. This ensures a soft textured dough. Don’t be afraid to sprinkle over a little more flour if it is sticky as you knead it.

10. Divide the dough into 2 or 3 equal pieces and knead these into rounds.

11. place them on the baking sheet, leaving a 4 or 5 centimetres between them.

12. Leave to prove in a warm place, cover with a clean tea towel if you wish.

13. The dough will rise, this is called proving. After about 40-45 minutes they should have doubled in volume.

14. During the proving time preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7.

15. After proving bake the bread for about 20 minutes. Turn the oven down to 200C/gas mark 6 and bake for about 5-10 more minutes.

16. When the bread is golden brown and the crust firm, test to see if the bread is cooked inside. This is done by tapping the base of the loaf with the flat of the hand, you should hear a hollow resonant sound if it is cooked if not cook for 5 more minutes and test again. Smaller loaves will need less cooking time.

17. Transfer the loaves to a cooling rack and leave for at least 30 minutes before slicing. if you slice it any sooner the bread will squash and lose its shape.

SAllY lUNN BREAD

Makes 3 small loaves

INGREDIENTS

380g strong white flour½ teaspoon salt1x 7g sachet fast action dried yeast75g golden caster sugar1 large egg, beatenFinely grated rind of 1 lemon or half an orange150ml warm water50g butter, melt in the water

1. Sieve the flour and salt together in a mixing bowl.

2. Stir in the sugar and yeast.

3. Stir the lemon or orange rind into the egg.

4. Make a well in the centre of the flour and pour in the egg at the same time add the water and butter mixture and stir well.

5. Knead the dough with the hands to form a ball then transfer it to a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes.

6. Grease a baking a sheet.

7. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and shape into rounds.

8. place on the prepared baking sheet and leave to prove in a warm place for about 40 minutes.

9.preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7 whilst the loaves are proving. For a shiny finish brush the tops with a little beaten egg.

10. Bake for about 15-20 minutes.

11. Cool on a rack before slicing.

To vary – add 80g mixed dried fruit to the dry ingredients for fruity Sally lunns!

HEAlTHIER OPTIONS

You can make this recipe with brown flour or a combination of half white and half wholemeal. Brown and wholemeal flour needs more water in the mixing of the dough , so have more warm water ready it can be a 150ml more. Also don’t sieve the flour and salt together at the beginning if using brown or wholemeal simply stir it in.

MAKiNG YOGhURT

This is an easy process really: you take bacteria and infect milk. When the bacteria have grown, to give the milk a certain thickness, you add some fruit and eat it. Sounds simple.

Diana and i bought a yoghurt maker, which was an electrically-heated Thermos flask, basically, which was supposed to make the product in a day or so. We added everything we thought and the result: not much really, just a thin slurry. it took a bit of experimentation before we got the hang of things.

Now our yoghurt maker is a radiator, but the less said about that the better.

MIlK

Obviously, yoghurt is made from milk. You can use any kind of milk – full fat milk makes thicker yoghurt than skimmed, but you can make low-fat yoghurts at home. You can use sheep or goat’s milk too, which make a good final product. personally, i much prefer sheep milk to any other kind, but usually ‘make do’ with what the milkman brings.

it is really useful being mates with a milkman – i used to play rugby with mine. You can get all kinds of ‘leftovers’ and consequently make a good deal of yoghurt if you want to.

STARTING OFF

You need to inoculate the milk with the right kind of bacteria. Don’t keep on adding bad milk to fresh, you will eventually grow something nasty and make yourself poorly. You can get the right bacteria from a plain live yoghurt. it needs to be alive and unflavoured. The little tubs of yoghurt rarely work properly.Alternatively, you can buy yoghurt starter from a supplier (one of our advertisers will sell the stuff ). A sachet to a litre of milk is usually enough.

STERIlIzE

i know there are people who do not like to sterilize their milk. They say it is better to have a natural taste. Well my answer to that, and having sat through all those microbiology lectures and knowing how easy it is to actually kill yourself by growing bacteria in a medium and then swallowing it, i’d rather only grow the bacteria i know won’t kill me.

So, sterilize everything. if you cough or sneeze or simply touch something grotty, it is very easy to transfer this to your food. Make sure your hygiene is perfect. Wash your hands and sterilize everything but your starter. So, bring your milk to the boil and then let it cool to about 40°C. You can then add your starter to the milk.

YoghurtMAKING YOUR OWN

Yoghurt Maker£21.98

Yoghurt Maker£44.99

Visit our website at:ascott-dairy.co.uk

for all your yoghurt, cheese and butter making supplies

MiNT

Mint tastes of mint. it’s is really useful in the kitchen, keeps flies at bay, refreshes a smelly atmosphere and is possibly one of the most important health herbs around, certainly as useful as garlic, and no one minds when you kiss them when you’ve been eating it. in the case of mint it is the digestive system that benefits.

A few sprigs of mint in hot water produces a lovely calming drink, and provides a clue to the next benefit we get from the plant, menthol oils. This oil is calming and antiseptic and has a particular effect on the digestive, being a mild alkali.

As well as a very definite calming effect on the digestive system, it restricts the blood flow in the capillaries of the sinus, thus leaving more space for the airways. The result is a temporary improvement in breathing.

The olfactory pathway is one of the major nerve routes in the body. it has to tell the brain what you are eating and if necessary, stop you before you poison yourself . Mint gives a particularly strong reaction. it causes the brain to relax, anxieties are calmed, the heart rate is soothed and the blood pressure slightly reduces.

Mint tea is one of those drinks; just putting a sprig in a cup of boiling water, provides a calm ten minutes of enjoyment; just the best way to forget your troubles and make

you feel well, especially if you take in the vapours as well as the liquid.

There are dozens of mints and they all share one irritating fact – they grow like mad!

The best way to grow mints, unless you want a minty jungle in the garden, is to put them in plastic pots and bury them whole in the soil. This way the roots are restricted and the plant will not outgrow its welcome. however, it will only take a year before the roots are sticking out of the bottom of the pot and growing into the soil. Apart from this they are easy to grow. The flavour will be strengthened if you give them a feed of well-rotted compost in the spring, and remember that if they are in pots you will need to water them regularly.

Don’t over feed them, a liquid feed in spring and again in summer is enough, and try to replace them every couple of years.

The traditional varieties, minthe – your basic mint, peppermint (sometimes mistakenly referred to as double mint), and spearmint are the ones mostly used in cooking. Generally, all the strange ones are used for making drinks or ice cream or sweets of some kind.

Cool MintIf you want a cool herb,mint is great - but you have to watch out - it spreads faster than the tide comes in!

RAITA

This is a condiment used in Indian cuisine. It is simple to make and very cooling. You do not need to have a curry to enjoy it, just dip some naan bread into it for a snack or starter.

Why not make this with your own homemade yoghurt using the recipe on the previous page? If you’ve grown your own mint and cucmbers too, the bragging rights for this will be immense!

INGREDIENTS50g chopped mint200ml yoghurt (plain – not strawberry!)100g finely diced cucumber

METHOD

Simply combine all the ingredients together in a bowl and place in the fridge for a couple of hours before serving. You might need a tiny dash of salt to taste.

Making Brie at home is not difficult, but in a way is impossible. product protection legislation around the world protects the appellation ‘Brie’ for cheese made in that region of France. That said, it is possible to make a Brie - like cheese, something that tastes as good, but actually isn’t Brie. Didn’t Shakespeare say ‘.. a Brie by any other name would smell as sweet?’ Well, actually, no.

hiSTORY OF BRiE

One of the ancients, and probably the first cheese to be used as a tax. it is amazing to think this cheese was made some 1600 years ago, and we think we’re clever these days! i say this because a good Brie is very specifically controlled according to temperature. But in the year 700 AD, when it was first made, how did they manage this? it seems the monks that invented this cheese had very sensitive elbows to dip into the milk to assess the temperature.

Over the years, Brie has gained quite a following. The Emperor Charlemagne took his taxes from the area in Brie cheese, great wagon loads to feed himself and his court.

There are a number of rumours that King Louis xvi’s dying wish was to taste Brie again for the last time. how this can be verified is unknown, but it’s a good story.

Brie became known as the King of Cheeses after a competition in the early nineteenth century, and this appellation has stuck ever since.

in factories, in France, unpasteurised milk is heated to 37 C and then renneted and allowed to cool. however, this temperature is difficult to

maintain at home, you can easily over heat it and destroy the rennet, so we heat it to only 32 C.

pASTEURizED MiLK

it might be so that you get the best cheeses from unpasteurized milk. it might be that the very best cheeses do come from untreated milk, but i have a worry. having studied microbiology, i worry about listeria, tuberculosis. and any other amount of nasties lurking in the milk that can make me sick - not to mention E. coli (oops, just mentioned it).

Some of you might criticise me for saying this, but home cheese making, in my opinion, should be done with pasteurized milk.

STARTER SOLUTiON

This is an important step. in essence you are adding the bacteria that will give the final cheese its flavour and consistency - except that in the case of Brie, this isn’t true. if you were making a cheddar or a Cheshire cheese it would be the case, but in this case you are adding another microbe too. penicillium candidum is white mould. it is added at the beginning of the process, but in factories it is sprayed all over the cheese which is left for a week or so to mature.So, why add the other starter? Well i have tried it with and without, and the flavour is creamier by far with mesophillic starter. iNGREDiENTS 4.5 litres milk50 ml mesophilic starter solution1 g (one eighth of a teaspoon) Penicillium candidum3 - 5 drops rennet in a small amount of cooled boiled water METhOD Add the starter and the culture of penicillium candidum to the milk and slowly warm to 32oC.

MAKiNG BRiE

oh la la!

The KING of Cheeses

Visit our website at: gnltd.co.uk for all your cheese making equipment and supplies!

Leave for 30 minutes at this temperature. i wrap a towel around it, it seems to do the trick - except, make sure it is off the heat if you used the cooker to warm the milk. Add the rennet and leave for up to four hours for the curd to form. (Lower rennet quantity, curds form more slowly) Carefully but throughly cut the curd into 0.5cm cubes. Drain off most of the whey and ladle the curds into moulds so they are no deeper than 8 cm.

Leave the curds to drain overnight and then carefully turn them out of the moulds onto a cheese mat. Sprinkle salt over the sides and top and when you have turned the cheese over sprinkle salt on the top. Over the next couple of days turn the cheeses over and over, every 8

hours or so salting as you go, but only pinches of salt. if kept in fairly humid conditions they will start to become mouldy on the outside. At this point you can leave the cheese to ripen. The characteristic white mould is working the cheese inside. After a week it will be quite mature, after five weeks it will be like soup! So you need to check the cheese daily and eat when it is just right for you.

Making brie cheese is one of the easier of the delicate cheeses to make. You can improve this method by being really controlled with temperature control. if you put the newly formed curds in the mould and press it a little - about 15 kg weight, you will remove more of the whey. This means the cheese will last a little longer, because whey contains sugar, and this is what will spoil. We never keep pur brie more than 2 weeks - indeed all our home made cheeses are consumed quickly.

This mould has a follower to press the cheese, however, my tastiest brie has been made without pressing

The cheese covered in muslin, after removal from the mould

This is an important step - you need to remove as much of the whey as possible, and an overnight drain of the remaining curds removes 90% of the whey.

CARiNG FOR ChiCKENS

How to care for Chickens

Part two

Continuing from last month, Paul Peacock shows how the gentle clucking in the garden is possible for everyone, and of course, huge, wonderful eggs. Just a few tips for new chicken keepers...

KEEpiNG ThE NOiSE DOWN

if there is one thing guaranteed to make your neighbours mad is a crowing cockerel. it’s not too bad at 10 am, but at 4:15! Cockerels say their prayers as the sun comes up, so you need to be either - far enough away from anyone to be disturbed, or very thick skinned to the complaints of angry neighbours, or just don’t keep cockerels.

This was never found in the city where we lived. There were hens there – indeed we kept them, and we were not the only poultry owners in the neighbourhood, but you never heard them. This is because there were no cockerels in the town.

hens, that is, females, are very quiet and will chuckle their way through the day. The most you will hear is a bok bok as one of them lays an egg.

WhAT BREED ShOULD i BUY?

There are good reasons for getting ex battery hens, so long as you are aware that one of them might die once installed. On the whole, ex battery hens are healthy - despite their looks, are still full of eggs, and have been immunised against salmonella, and most other problems. We have some very old ex-batt ladies, and they are still laying and very happy. -They rarely go broody (it’s been bred out of them) and they are tough sturdy animals.

For the most part you can be sure of simple brown hens. They can be easily looked after, they lay an egg a day, are usually very healthy, and reasonably mild tempered. They can be handled and are friendly with children.

if not getting ex-batts, ask for little brown hybrids and you will get really all you need. There are other breeds suitable for urban use, Sussex, Barnvelders, and

Dorkings. The best thing to do is go to a poultry supplier and talk to them. Don’t just buy the first hens you see, but be sure they are the kind of birds you feel comfortable with. Look out for the birds reacting badly, the ones that are skittish, huddled together or unhappy. You can tell an unhappy hen, it has ruffled feathers, scaly legs, runny eyes and poo on its bum – though poo on the bum alone does not indicate anything of itself.

WhERE DO ThEY LivE?

hens are hardy, they can withstand cold temperatures and are happy, more or less, anywhere in the UK. But, you need to be able to provide good shelter for hens.

Mostly they need shelter from wind and rain. They do better with snow and frost rather than constant wet conditions, which they cannot stand. They need a good, airy space to sleep in with a proper perch for roosting. hens take themselves into the hutch in the evening and then need to be locked in to keep them safe from rats, foxes and domestic cats.

Their run needs to be well protected from foxes during the day, and also badgers if you have some in your area.

WhERE TO pUT ThE hUTCh

Your neighbours are going to be your main problem when it comes to keeping hens. Try to keep them out of sight if possible, because when they fight or mess, and they do poo an awful lot, neighbours have a habit of not understanding what is going on. But a gift of six eggs usually placates any quarrels. The hut is best placed out of direct sunlight, wind and should have a cover to shelter from the rain where possible. hens do need to have plenty of light, but dappled shade is perfect.

The run should be moved on to fresh land every 3 months to reduce the parasite load in the soil, and if this is a problem, you can put them on paving stones covered with compost for them to scratch in - using it on the garden when it is full of poo.

CARiNG FOR ChiCKENS

FEEDING HENS:hENS DON’T LivE ON KiTChEN SCRApS

You will have to buy, from poultry suppliers, sacks of specialist poultry feed. Most people use ‘Layers pellets’, which contain everything a hen needs.

Yes, of course, they will eat scraps, but only do this in the afternoon, after they have had their fill of their own food. hens do not eat when they are not hungry, so if you give them anything in the morning, they will end up not getting all the nutrition they need.

They need plenty of clean water. The water must not be left to stagnate – it needs to be fresh every morning. There are a number of waterers on the market, but

they all need to be cleaned regularly.

in the winter, the water in the drinkers can freeze. You can counter this in a couple of ways. Firstly, you can put fresh out each morning, which obviously is good, but some days this year the water was frozen before lunchtime. Secondly, you can add some gelatine to the water, which keeps it liquid, although i found a couple of days when even this didn’t work this last winter.

in the town it is best to keep food in a sealed container away from the hens. Don’t store it in the paper sack it comes in and never allow dropped feed to accumulate on the ground. This way you ensure they are always clean and there is no way vermin can find food. it is a good idea to take the food away at night-time, putting it out again in the morning. This

way there is no chance of it being taken. Once rats find large amounts of food it will not be long before they are looking to nest in the area, and you will have a rat problem.

As soon as one of your neighbours sees a rat, you can guarantee there will be questions asked!

CLEANiNG

hens are very clean animals when it comes to personal cleanliness, but they can be very messy about the run.When they are asleep they poo more than any other time and a smelly mountain will build up. You can also check for red mite on the perch at the same time - these look like a gritty scab, and are dealt with using powder. poultry suppliers sell red mite powder.

Hen’s don’t eat unless they are hungry, so only feed them scraps after they have eaten their specialist feed

BEES

We are playing a game with bees in this world. in many ways we have mixed up ecosystems, bringing predators into ecosystems they simply do not belong. So, we have ever changing threats to bees, and there is almost nothing we can do about it.

MOviNG BEES AROUND ThE WORLD

First of all, there is a huge market in the UK for queens. Beekeepers do not seem to be able to breed queens, or at least they don’t seem to want to do it. The desire to have the latest, the best, the fashionable extends to beekeeping too. Consequently, many nations import queens almost by the container load. The UK is no exception. Last year there was a scare because and area of hawaii where queens are sent to the UK was found to have small hive beetle, and consequently there was a chance of this animal entering the UK. Fortunately it hadn’t - but is it only a matter of time?

SMALL hivE BEETLE

This beetle originates from Africa but has spread around the world because of the mass distribution of bees for commercial reasons. it was found in America in 1996 and has now spread to many states.

The beetles have been transported in hives – commercial bee-keepers over there have moved their bees in huge numbers to pollinate crops. however, there have been reports of beetles being transported in boxes and packets – mostly the sale of queens.

The adult beetle is very heavily armed and is dark brown in colour. it looks a little like a vine weevil, only more robust. it is quite small, about 5mm long.

They lay eggs in the hive, and the larvae, white in colour, eat pollen and honey. This activity causes the damage found in the

hive due to hive beetle. The adults live for half a year and lay lots of eggs, which become grubs that burrow through the frames, damaging and spoiling stores and frames.

You can get as many as 6,000 beetles in a hive, which can be killed by pouring them into soapy water. The hive then needs to

be torched to kill any eggs, and the woodwork must not used for another year to be sure that no eggs, secreted away in the nooks and crannies of the board, can get into the fray to start again.

The beetle pupates in soil, leaving emerging adults to reinfect hives. This can be avoided by drenching the soil around the hives. Although i obviously haven’t done this myself, the drench is a strong soapy solution with something like Jeyes Fluid or bleach dissolved in it. if we ever do get this pest i imagine people will be moving their bees around to new sites very regularly.

Small Hive Beetle and Asian Hornet

PEST SPECIAl

CONTROL

in the States, a series of pesticides have been used, similar to those once used against varroa, in strip form. They are used on the floor, because this is where the beetles are mostly found. The strips are stuck to a piece of cardboard, and the beetles and larvae congregate beneath it and are killed by the vapours of the treatment.

ThE ASiATiC hORNET

This animal is ferocious, and comes, as if you didn’t know, from China. A consignment of pottery transported a colony to Europe, and it is now eating bees all over France. Attempts to remove this wasp from the countryside have proven fruitless, and actually, we should not expect success - the numbers of these hornets will explode as they take advantage of their new niche.

Unfortunately, our bees do not have any protection. You would expect - and it is the case, that Asian bees are able to defend themselves. i suppose this means that beekeepers will be importing Asian bees and the importing cycle will simply continue!

ThE ASiAN hORNET

This is about 5 - 7 cm long and a 8 cm wingspan, and lives in colonies of several thousand. They send out scout animals that mark bee colonies with a pheromone, and then shortly afterward the colony will arrive in huge numbers to steal honey and grubs, decapitating bees in the process. Within a couple of hours the colony is dead.

There seems to be little or nothing you can do to stop these animals from gaining entry - and the official plan is to kill colonies of hornets when they appear. i wondered about some kind of guard, like a queen excluder. But i am sure someone else has already thought of that.

Bees have been around for millions of years, their evolution has mimicked the development of the flower, and therefore, in all that time they have come against a lot of problems. Actually, in all of their millennia they have managed to maintain their numbers, and spread all over the world.

More than that, the races of honey bees around the world have shown the truism that bees have adapted well to their local conditions, and it is only in the last two hundred years they have found themselves to be continually in trouble.

At City Cottage we firmly believe that bees know themselves how to live, and as we interfere with them, we mess them about. it is a part of an attitude - we know best!

For example, when the British black bee all but died out, a monk from Germany took bees from all around the world and interbred them - messing with millions of years of local evolution, to create the Buckfast bee - still in use today, as a replacement for the natural stock. Maybe this isn’t such a bad thing - maybe the Buckfast bee is a good bee, but its very existence shown our state of mind, that it is fine to bring bees from all over the world and combine their characteristics. it is this very mindset that brought about killer bees in South America.

how can we not escape trouble for our bee stocks when we import them from all over the world? Let’s see if the British Black Bee can thrive again on our shores!

COMMENT

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hEARTY pUDDiNGS

After the rain comesPUDDING!It may feel like winter outside with all the rain and wind, but a good pudding will give you all the warmth you need. Rebecca Peacock cooks up something comforting for a rainy May Day...

Being born and bred in Manchester, i am somewhat used to the rain, but it still doesn’t stop it being disappointing when we are stuck indoors on bank holiday Monday with torrential storms lashing at the windows. For me, the best medicine is sweet and covered in custard, and takes the edge off the dark clouds gathering beneath spring skies.

These puddings can be adapted to suit whatever you’ve got in your cupboards so you don’t have to brave the weather to get to the shops, especially if you keep plenty of butter, sugar and flour in your stores as often as you can.

FRUiTBOWL CRUMBLE

This can be made with any lurking fruit from your fruitbowl; today mine consisted of two baking apples i had intended for a tarte tatin and half a pineapple.

Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS - for the filling400g - 500g fruit of your choice2 tsp cinnamon or spice of your choice1 tbsp honey40g golden caster sugar40g butter50 ml fruit juice

Dice the fruit, larger chunks will give you more bite to the crumble

The crumble mix should resemble large breadcrumbs

1. preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 7).

2. Dice your fruit if large, or chuck them in whole if small berries. For oranges, juice and use with other, more substantial fruit or dried fruit.

3. place the fruit in a pan with the butter, sugar, juice, honey and spice.

4. Over a low light, allow the butter to melt into the fruit, stirring to prevent burning.

5. As the fruit softens, turn up the heat slightly and allow the juice to bubble.

6. place the lid on and cook for 5 minutes.

7. Remove from the heat before the fruit turns mushy. place into a large buttered dish and leave to cool whilst you make the crumble topping.

INGREDIENTS - for the topping250g plain flour80g oats200g butter, cubed175g golden caster sugar

1. in a large bowl, mix the plain flour and oats together.

2. Rub in the cubed butter, until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

3. Stir in the sugar and ensure the crumble mixture is light and the pieces are small.

4. Sprinkle the crumble over the top of the warm fruit and bake for 30 minutes, or until the topping is golden brown and the fruit underneath is oozing up the sides and bubbling.

5. Serve with custard* (ideally), ice cream (if there’s no custard), cream (if you’ve no ice cream) or on its own if your stores are low.

*My choice only, if you prefer ice cream, go for it!

BAKED STUFFED AppLES

A delicious way of turning those lurking apples in the bowl into a delicious (and remarkably easy) dessert. Serves one apple per person!

INGREDIENTS1 apple25g raisins or sultanas20g butter1/2 teaspoon cinnamon1 teaspoon brown sugar

1. Grease a small dish with butter and preheat the oven to 200°C (Gas 7)

2. Core the apple but leave the peel on, and place the apple into the buttered dish.

3. Sprinkle the cinnamon into the centre of the apple, making sure you coat the insides of the removed core.

4. pack the core with dried fruit of your choice. if you wish, you can soak your dried fruit overnight in juice, brandy or liqueur according to your taste before making the stuffed apples.

5. place the butter on top of the apple and sprinkle the brown sugar on top of this.

6. place the apple into the oven and bake for 35 - 40 minutes. half way through the cooking time, baste the apple with the juices that run out and settle in the bottom of the dish.

7. When the apple is cooked, remove from the oven and baste again. Leave to cool slightly before serving (as the centre of the apple will be extremely hot). Serve with cream, natural yoghurt or custard according to your taste.

This recipe works really well with a generous glug of calvados, sherry or white wine poured over before cooking. Try melting some dark chocolate and pouring it over before serving for a delicious treat

SAUSAGES

Sausage Making at homePaul Peacock shows us how easy it can be to create delicious, healthy sausages at home

This is a basic guide to making sausages at home, and in future editions we will include more complex recipes. For now, suffice it to say that sausages are easy to make, and home made sausages are far better than the ones you get in the shop.There are a number of reasons for this.

MEAT CONTENTShop bought sausages are usually around 35% meat, but you can make a sausage with a much higher meat content at home. it is easy to see this will have a huge impact on the flavour.

pRESERvATivESYou are adding only salt, preferably curing salt, which has some saltpetre in it (though it is possible to use only kitchen salt, at a pinch - well, a bit more than a pinch actually) but there will be no other chemicals in your sausages - unless you want them!

YOUR OWN RECipESSomeone will prefer pork and apple, others a very simple sausage, still others

something fancy. You can make sausages that suit you and your family, and be warned - once you start you won’t be able to stop!

WhAT DO YOU NEED TO MAKE SAUSAGES?it doesn’t cost the earth, making sausages. Everyone used to have the equipment at home at one time, a food grinder was a piece of basic kitchen equipment at one time. When they fell out of use in the UK in the 1960’s they had to invent the food processor to do the same job.

GRiNDERThese days a basic sausage machine come grinder is available for less than £20, made from plastic, and we have been using them for years to make small batches of sausages.

Small plastic machines that are available widely are perfectly good for mincing meat - though it struggles a little with skin. You can buy a wide range

of grinders, hand cranked to electric machines, and there are a number of different kinds of stuffers, from simply using your grinder with a sausage stuffing attachment that invariably comes with the machine, to large capacity piston type machines that deliver a lot of sausage.

SKiNSOn top of that you will need sausage skins, and i do not intend to go into the different types right now. For people starting out making sausages, i would recommend using pre loaded hog skins of 22 mm diameter. They are easy to load on your sausage machine’s nozzle.

They come covered in salt, and you have to soak them in cool water for about an hour to loosen them. They are loaded on aplastic tube and if you only want to make a couple of kilos of sausage, cut it in half with a stout pair of scissors. Then soak, and place the plastic tube on your nozzle, sliding the skins off the tube onto your nozzle.

Some people simply push the tube on the nozzle and load from there, but i have never had much success that way.

if you have any skins left over, simply put them in a plastic, lidded container, and cover them with a liberal amount of salt. They will last until next time.

MEATThere is no end to the meat you can put in a sausage, but generally, pork is the ideal starting point. if you buy pork shoulder, you will find it has exactly the right amount of fat - around 10%. Fat is often added to sausage recipes, it helps with the flavour.

it is important to keep your meat cold. When i buy meat from the supermarket or butcher i need to know if it is suitable for freezing - don’t make sausages from frozen bought meat. Then i sandwich my purchase between two bags of ice cubes - usually available in supermarkets.

Keep your meat chilled throughout the process. indeed, if i am using my large metal sausage machine, i chill that too, so the meat stays cool during the grinding process.

RUSK OR BREADCRUMBSThis is an important ingredient in most sausages, though some types do use it. Rusk imparts a flavour to the sausage, not found with breadcrumbs. You need about 20% of the amount of meat for an average sausage.

SALTThe word sausage means ‘salted’. The other name for sausage is botulinum - yes, botulism is sausage disease.

Ordinary salt has other chemicals in them that can make the flavour a bit off in some cases, and the flavour is not quite authentic. if you buy preserving salt, you have an extra ingredient - a tiny amount of saltpeter.

Saltpeter contains nitrite which kills botulinum, and adds an authentic flavour too. it doesn’t mean you can keep sausages forever without them going off, but they will last 3 days in the fridge with no trouble.

Besides, the recipe i use contains less salt, because usually, i make sausages and eat them the following day, and if i don’t plan to do that, they are vacuum packed and frozen.

Saltpeter is available for more or less the same price as ordinary salt.

MAKiNG YOUR OWN SAUSAGE

INGREDIENTS1kg of pork shoulder200g sausage making rusk, or breadcrumbs if you prefer200ml water2 level tsp salt½ tsp pepper

YOu WILL NEED1 mixing bowl1 grinder or food processor1 sausage stuffer 1.25m sausage casing 1 tray to collect the filling sausage

METHOD1. Rinse the skins in water2. Chop your meat into 1cm cubes and then grind or mince them. if you have to use a food processor, pulse the machine to avoid it becoming like soup.3. You can simply get your butcher to mince your meat for you, or buy mince from the supermarket - for a first time sausage, it doesn’t matter.4. Add your other ingredients to this mix, depending on the size of your food processor. 5. it is important that you mix everything as thoroughly as you can. i tend to mix the dry ingredients first, then mix this with the meat products. Another way of mixing is to add the smallest quantities to the water first and then use this to mix the stuffing.

Once you have created your sausage mix and are ready to stuff your casing, you can fry a small amount or your stuffing to check that you are happy with the seasoning.

having loaded your casings onto the delivery tube, don’t knot it - thats what everyone thinks they need to do. Leave about 8 cm skin dangling off the tube, this will then drag the skin off once the meat starts to fill the skin.

Fill the skins until the look just plump, but not so much as they are under pressure inside.

Starting to stuff the casings can be a daunting task, but is actually quite simple. You will benefit from an extra pair of hands, one to crank the machine (or start it working if it is electrical, or to push your meat down the funnel) and another to manage the flow of sausage from the other end.

You can control the thickness of the sausage by gently holding back the casing as it fills with mixture; this will allow more meat per centimetre of sausage, and consequently you get a thicker sausage.Keep on flowing the meat into the casings until you have used it up.

Linking the sausage - easy. Just twist the

it took me a long time to realize that country wines were not ever intended for the kind of drinking we now see in homes, bars and public houses. Actually, our forefathers couldn’t afford to be intoxicated, neither financially, nor in terms of work. if your food depended on your labour, you soon gather a healthy set of priorities.

Drunkenness has its origins in urban communities - that isn’t to say country

people were never worst for wear, but rising with the sun and working so long as it is light doesn’t leave much time for anything but sleeping, working and a peck on the cheek at nighttime.

So, country wines, what are they about?

CELEBRATiON

We have two magnificent blackcurrant bushes that will make me a

wonderful wintertime wine. What better, on the shortest day, when the snow is so heavy i can’t get up the hill, than to remember the summer with a glass of blackcurrant wine?

pRESERvATiON

Yes, you can make jam from many of the fruits in the garden. And we do too. Actually, some of the pulp left over from wine making finds its way into jam too. Apple and blackcurrant, or raspberry and apple jam is often made by adding some of the pressing to the apple puree.

But an equally valid preservation is to ferment the sugar into alcohol in wine. The alcohol dissolves and keeps active some important vitamins and active ingredients. And this fact brings me to the eye opener, for me at least, about country wine.

MEDiCiNE

A tipple is good for you because it often has medicinal properties. For example, dandelion wine has real benefits for bladder infections, kidney problems and is a general tonic. Of course, people kept country wines as a tonic, a health pick me up, not as a way of getting smashed!

MAKiNG WiNE

You start with a juice, and you also add sugar to it, especially for those fruits low in sugar.This assumes you are making a gallon of wine and using 1kg of ordinary white sugar.

You need a food grade tub (sterile), a muslin to collect the fruit in and to strain all the juice out – squeezing hard with clean hands. A kettle of boiling water poured over the fruit, mashed with a potato masher. put the fruit in the muslin first and give it a good pummelling. Then add your sugar to the juice and leave it to cool before putting in the demijohn.

Make sure everything is sterile in wine making, the bottles, the flasks the bowld - all must be free from spoiling microbes and infections. i use a sterilizing tablet - it is completely foolproof.

MAKiNG ThE JUiCE

AppLEUse 3kg apples, ground into a pulp in the food processor. This is a cloudy one – take your time – add a little lemon juice (about a cup) to stop it browning too much.

BREWiNG

BrewingCountryWinesYou don’t have to livein the country to enjoycountry wines all year...

BARLEYThis is a good one. 500g barley and 500g chopped raisins. Add boiling water and soak overnight.

BLACKBERRYit takes ages to collect 2kg blackberries – but it’s well worth it.

DAMSONUse 3kg damsons – or plums – and leave overnight before setting off.

DANDELiONThis takes a while – use 500g petals in a pan, add a couple of pints of water, bring to the boil, allow to cool, strain and top up with apple juice.

Another one is to soak a kilo of grated dandelion root in 5 litres of boiling water overnight, then straining off the liquid. The liquid is allowed to cool - it doesn’t need to be boiling all night!

ELDERBERRYUse 1kg elderberries, and use 2 litres of water and 2 litres of diluted blackcurrant juice or 2kg blackcurrants.

MEADUse 1kg honey to water, and 2 cups of lemon juice. it is better if you use a white wine concentrate kit. Leave to mature for hundreds of years (Well, at least two).

ROSE hipYou don’t need vitamin C in this as there are already lots in the rose hip. Use 1.5kg rosehips and a kettle of boiling water – leave for an hour and then make the wine.

FERMENTiNG

The juice is placed into a sterilized demijohn, and the sugar added, along with wine yeast - i tend to use a white wine yeast for everything. i also add lemon juice, about a cup, for it’s vitamin c content - yeast, like humans, cannot make vitamin c.

Make up the amount of liquid to the neck of the demijohn with cooled boiled water.

Fit an airlock and keep warm, and pretty soon the bubbles will start. Keep the demijohn on a tray to catch any spillages.

When the bubbles have stopped, use a sterile siphon to decant the clear liquid from the lees (sediment) into a sterile demijohn. You might need to do this two or three times to get an acceptable result. There are products that will clear wine - finings, but i never use them. if you stand the flask on a stone floor, it will clear soon enough - floorboards vibrate when you walk around, mixing the sediment a little.

DO YOU BOTTLE?

i never do! We just use corks that fit the demijohn - it’s easier.

Don’t forget to label your wine, so you know what it is and when you made it.

RECYCLiNG FABRiCS

RecyclingFabrics

With the worries about climate change and economic problems, recycling our waste is something we are all familiar with. The benefits of reducing waste and the need for using more raw materials are well documented. however, the notion of recycling clothes seems to be confined to donating a bag to a charity shop, or pushing our tatty old bits and bobs into the clothing bank.

Recycling our clothes should be something we do for ourselves. Making synthetic fibres uses energy and natural resources, as they are derived from petrochemicals. if we consider the impact on the environment of each stage of producing a garment, the price tag to the consumer may be low, but the cost to the planet seems vastly out of proportion.

From the impact of intensive farming of cotton, to the chemicals used in the dyeing and printing processes, right through to social issues arising from the conditions for workers in factories, are just a few of the many hidden problems. Similarly the energy consumed and carbon released in the delivery of cheap, synthetic clothing from the far east to the UK is a huge cost to the planet. As such, now they are here, it would be a shame if they are not used until they disintegrate.

To retain the maximum amount of fabric from a garment, a seam ripper is a must. it will allow you to cut through the seams, preserving it right to the edge, in half the time it takes to pick through the stitches with scissors. This is useful too, as it allows you to de-construct the garment and

create patterns from it for future use.

if you wish to make recycling and reusing fabrics a permanent pass time, it is useful to invest in a couple of shelves to house your collected buttons, zips and equipment. vintage tins and jars can make this look particularly attractive, so scouring second hand shops and internet auction sites is very useful.

RECYCLED FABRiC COASTERS

This is a decorative, useful way of using up tiny scraps of fabric. You can use any fabrics you have to hand, though try and keep them a similar weight. if they are mainly heavy weight items, simply place the fabrics side by side and attach them

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by sewing using herringbone stitch or cross stitch over the raw edges. One side of the stitch should pick up one fabric, and the other side the next. For lighter weight fabrics, place them face down, on an ironing board (or, if space is an issue, a folded towel on a table top) as close together as possible. if you have any gaps, simply cut pieces to fit from excess fabric. in both cases, try and fill a space 300mm x 300mm, as it is easier to cut the pieces square from a larger piece, than create individual shapes. place a piece of medium interfacing, glue side down, on the wrong side of your shapes and iron on well. Then, turn over and either hand sew over the raw edges with decorative stitches, or place ribbon across the joins and sew into place.

YOU WiLL NEED:

A mass of scrap fabricsInterfacing

TO MAKE YOUR COASTERS

1. Cut the fabric you have created (or another larger piece of your choice) into squares 100mm in length (square A). Cut another square 80mm in length (square B).

2. Using square A, fold over the edges 10mm, pin and press. Sew round the entire edge of the square.

3. place square B, right side out, in the centre of square A. The edge of square B should touch the raw edge of square A.

4. Fold over the 4 protruding sides of square A, hiding the raw edge of square B. pin in place and tack them to secure.

5. Sew along the entire outside edge to secure in place.

You may wish to spray the coaster with a Scotchguard fabric protector or water repellant to ensure their longevity against the odd spill of tea or coffee. This is available from most DiY or furniture stores or may be more cost effective online.

Linda McDonald-Brown looks at the inevitable conclusion and the emotional difficulties faced when raising animals for their meat.As a smallholder, you experience both joy and sadness, you marvel at the newborn as they take their first breath and when the time is right, you make the decision to end their life. For many of us men as well as women, killing a healthy animal goes against the grain, yet as a smallholder

raising animals for food, we are required to carry out this task regularly.

So how to cope? i have to be honest here, i don’t cope very well at all, and consequently i have very rarely been involved in taking an animal to the abattoir, in fact i think i can count on one hand the amount of times i have taken our pigs to their demise, when i have the guilt and sadness stays with me for days. Surplus cockerels have caused havoc, but i have let them live rather than take on the task of dispatching them. how easy is it to ignore the reality of sending your animals to their death when

someone else takes on the job and that’s what i do, i look to my husband to carry out these unpleasant but necessary tasks. Don’t get me wrong, i believe passionately in the field to fork idea behind keeping

livestock for their meat. All of the meat we eat comes direct from either a local farm, produced by ourselves or bought from butchers who buy their meat locally. Raising animals for

food in an environment that allows the animal to live its life as naturally as possible, and then dispatched in a way that causes it as little stress as possible is important to me and it’s a lifestyle that i wish more

how easy it is to ignore the reality of sending your animals to their death when someone else takes on the job

RAiSiNG ANiMALS

Raising animals for food

people would and could embrace. however no doubt similar to many other people, it’s the ending of that animal’s life i have huge difficulties with and i do believe that in many cases this is the reason more people don’t raise animals for food.

The joy of looking after and raising an animal at the time, knowing that it will be providing you with the tastiest meat imaginable outweigh the inevitable uncomfortable conclusion. i try not to think about the time a pig needs to make that one last journey, and wonder if all smallholders think like me when they load their animals for the final time. Though i can’t believe for one moment that there are smallholders out there who do not suffer twinges of guilt, how could they not, that animal has trusted them and looked to them for food and water and a bond has been established.

Simply put, for me, the motions of sending a healthy animal, an animal that greets you every visit and shows you recognition, to its death upsets me greatly. i struggle

enormously even just helping to load an animal for its final trip, its willingness to go into the trailer, its little grunts and its trust as it makes its way up the ramp, in truth the only way i can cope with it is to not think about it and just load it in autopilot. Many years ago i lived and worked on a sheep station in the outback of Australia, Kangaroos, sheep and cattle were regularly dispatched to feed everyone, and it wasn’t uncommon for me to be asked to gut them. Living hundreds of miles away from the nearest town, it was a necessity and for the station owners, a way of life going back hundreds of years. i loved the romanticism of being land dependant, surviving in a harsh world, we grew our own vegetables and ate the animals around us, But that was in my head, the actually reality of seeing a kangaroo shot or a sheep having its throat cut was something else. Again i could only deal with it because i distanced myself from the killing of the animal, but occasionally i would see the

animal dispatched and i would weep, at that moment the killing of an animal outweighed the necessity for food. i asked my husband about his feelings when he took our first pigs to the abattoir, guilt was the first emotion he told me and continued to be so, even 10 years on, although now he admits the sheer number of animals that have gone to the abattoir has somewhat dulled that guilt. he avoids looking the animal in the eye, he told me and this is something i have heard many times from both the Australian station owner and smallholders closer to home. Many years ago he actually went inside the abattoir to see one of our pigs being dispatched, he had to satisfy himself that they were treated kindly and the job was done quickly. he felt he owed it to his animals to check this.

i therefore feel that i am the last person to give smallholders tips on coping with taking their animals to the abattoir or necking a vicious cockerel. Not naming the porkers actually doesn’t make it easier as some pig people, me included have helpfully suggested in articles. They still welcome you when they see you, you still develop a bond and you still enjoy their presence.

i believe some people find it easier than others to cope, i am of the latter, but my sadness, guilt and numerous other emotions is something that i and others will have to suffer if we are to continue to breed animals for meat in a way i believe is the correct way. The feelings may dull but i believe they never go away.

EasyHomeSmokingPaul Peacock shows us a novel way of making delicious smoked food with the bee smoker...

Here is an easy way of smoking fish or meat that neither costs the earth, nor needs huge cabinets or pipework. And it really works!

I do like to smoke food, and for some time have used a hot smoker - which you can easily buy or make up. Hot smoking is where the food is put in a tin - I have used a biscuit tim on a BBQ, a fish kettle and a specially made hot smoker. You put wood dust in the bottom and when it burns, it smokes the food.

However, cold smoking delivers a stream of cold smoke to your food, and this usually means having a special burner, or a big shed with a fire in the bottom, or a fire feeding smoke down a long pipe.

But hang on a minute...

I am a beekeeper, and I use a beekeeper’s smoker to deliver cool smoke to control my bees. So - why not use it to smoke?

You need a large bowl onto which you can place a lid. Tupperware is good, but I used a mixing bowl, and my lid was a happily fitting plate.

Place your fish on a plate in the bowl, and from the smoker, fill it with cool smoke - pop the lid on and leave. keep feeding smoke every ten minutes for about an hour, and you get a very mild smoked flavour. Another hour and it is stronger, another hour still and it is quite strong.

It seems like a lot of messing - well, it’s not actually. It only takes a few seconds to fill the container with smoke. use apple wood, which I get from my prunings in the garden. The whole thing works a treat!

OMELETTE ARNOLD BENNETT

This delicious way of serving eggs, finnan haddock and Parmesan cheese was first prepared for the novelist, Arnold Bennett, in London’s Savoy Grill. He would request this dish for breakfast in any hotel he stayed in thereafter. This is a slightly easier version than the original one but is still as tasty. This recipe serves 2.

INGREDIENTS120g home smoked haddock100ml milkSalt and pepper

½ dessertspoon of cornflour mixed with 2 tbsp cold milk1 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 tbsp grated Gruyère cheese4 eggs20g butter2 tbsp double cream

METHOD

1. Poach the fish in the milk for about 10 minutes. When cooked, lift the fish out into a bowl and flake.2. Heat the poaching liquid and simmer to reduce slightly. Stir in the cornflour and cook until it thickens. Season to taste. Stir in the cheeses and pour over the fish. Stir gently.3. Heat the grill to its hottest setting. Beat the eggs and melt the butter in a large frying pan. Add the eggs when the butter starts to foam. Cook over a medium heat until the omelette is just set but still runny on top.4. Spoon the fish mixture over the top of the eggs and drizzle over the cream.5. Place the omelette under the grill and cook until the top begins to brown and bubble. Serve immediately.

SMOKiNG

ALLOTMENT SpECiAL

Mudlarks on the PlotWe were in Hartford recently and had the opportunity to visit Cromwell Road Allotments, home to a rather special group of people using a number of allotments together to create a unique gardening experience.

ALLOTMENT SpECiAL

Mudlarks, on the day we visited, was filling up with a number of excited and enthusiastic people ready for a couple of hours gardening.

Mudlarks is a gardening project for people of all abilities, particularly those with a learning disability or mental health issues. They offer horticultural therapy, training and work experience in horticulture, conservation and environmental awareness.

Gardeners have their own bed where they can choose which plants to grow, where they can change, paint, decorate and individualize their spaces. The large communal areas at Mudlarks include flower and vegetable plots, an orchard,

wildlife area, herb spiral, willow arch and apothecary bed - it’s all very exciting.

The site also has an eco-building with a living sedum roof. The building has a wood-burning stove and facilities for making refreshments. Gardeners can use the building for tea and lunch breaks. In the colder months of the year gardeners use the building for craft activities and allotment carpentry projects.

The site also contains a greenhouse, potting shed, bike shelter, wood store and environmentally sustainable compost toilet.

Gardeners have the opportunity to take part in all aspects of allotment gardening

on their individual plots, including planting, nurturing and harvesting fruit and vegetables. Gardeners will also undertake general allotment tasks in the communal areas – preparing the ground for planting, fencing, upkeep of allotment buildings, general carpentry, woodwork projects and craft activities.

Mudlarks welcomes volunteers to help on site, supporting our gardeners, running stalls and exhibitions, assisting with administration, providing professional assistance with financial, fundraising, publicity and legal issues.

For more information on how to volunteer, contact Vic Hobson at vic@mudlarksgarden.org.uk

Individual plots allow gardeners to have a go and get involved in the allotment, whatever their age or ability

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GARDEN pROJECT

Garden PlinthMAKE YOUR OWN

Show off your plants and give them more light with this attractive and easy wooden plinth. Darren Wright shows you how easy it is to make at home...

I spend a lot of time in the garage trying to make weird and wonderful things from all the offcuts of wood that I have accumulated over the years. Some projects work, some fail spectacularly! I currently have about 3 in various stages of completion in the workshop. Today’s project, however, was a success and managed to get completed in an afternoon. Diana was in the garden and she was lamenting the fact that some of her plants were not getting as much sun as the others surrounding them. She asked if I could create a small step to make them a similar height. A plinth, if you will. This would serve to raise the smaller pots up to the same level as the larger pots and stop them being left in the shade. This plinth only needed to be about 300mm high, 750mm long and 350mm wide as it would only be supporting small plant pots.

I started by searching through the offcuts bin for the different parts. For the top I decided to use some rough sawn pine

battens that I’ve had for a while. Pine is okay to use for outdoor applications if it has been treated but only if it’s not going to be used where animals are concerned. If, for example, you are making a bird table then you wouldn’t want to treat it with wood stain as this will keep the birds away for up to 12 months. With something like this plant shelf, that doesn’t matter. In this case, it may even ensure the plants don’t get pecked! Once completed I would give it a quick coat of wood stain anyway.

For the top section I cut 14 lengths of the pine battens at 750mm long and clamped them together using 2 sash clamps. I then attached them to 3 battens measuring 350mm long, using 40mm general purpose screws. I attached one at each end 50mm in from the edge and also attached one in the middle.

The next job would be to make the feet to raise it up to the height needed. Last

week we assembled a couple of poly tunnels and as one had to be cut down to fit the area we had I ended up with some 50mm x 100mm offcuts. This would make the perfect foot sections.I cut 6 pieces, 3 for each foot, at 350mm in length. Clamping these together with sash clamps I attached 2 battens to each foot section to hold them together in a similar fashion to the top section. Making the foot sections out of wide pieces of wood removed the need for four legs and also the job of making the whole thing level. Sometimes getting 4 legs to all be level can be a pain. Anyway, these were then butted up to each end batten on the top section and attached using the same 40mm general purpose screws, driven through the top section and into the top of the feet.

This all seemed like a finished product but I felt that it needed some bracers to ensure the plant pots wouldn’t prove to heavy and collapse the whole thing. I also like to over engineer things

so there is absolutely no chance of something falling to pieces!

To solve this I cut two pieces of pine with opposing 45º angles at each end. With these attached to the legs and top section the completed structure will be much sturdier. I simply drilled fixing holes in both the feet and the top section and screwed the bracers in place.

And there you have it, a simple yet effective plant pot plinth. Very alliterative and very simple to make. I have made 2, so far, but I am sure more will be needed as time goes by and more plant pots populate the garden. I may even make some split level ones that incorporate different size pots. In fact, I am now formulating a design in my head of a square plant plinth that will surround a larger pot with smaller ones.

If anyone needs me, I’ll be in the workshop!

pARTS LiST

25mm x 25mm x 750mm battens, 14 off

50mm x 100mm x 350mm feet sections, 6 off

35mm x 18mm x 350mm battens for top section, 3 off

35mm x 18mm x 130mm battens for foot sections, 4 off

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