classic resorts, thermal springs, campania cuisine …...of course, most winter visitors come for...

6
For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. This Month Naples and Ischia Delightful hotel discoveries Tuscan Retreats Food, wine and serenity Best of Aspen Classic hotels reassessed Online This Month Read more about the high- lights of my trip to Naples, plus Tuscan wine tasting, Florence restaurants and visits to Pienza and Montalcino. Aman Tokyo Opening IN THE NEWS AMANRESORTS has been making news for all the wrong reasons of late, thanks to Byzantine ownership battles between founder Adrian Zecha and an exotic cast of belligerents that includes a Russian billion- aire oligarch. It is therefore a considerable relief to accentuate the positive. The group’s latest prop- erty is scheduled to open on December 22. A self- styled “urban sanctuary,” the 84-room Aman Tokyo occupies the top six floors of a 38-story tower situ- ated between the Imperial Palace park and Tokyo Station. The hotel includes a 27,000-square-foot spa with a 90-foot pool. Speculation is rife that this will be the first of several Aman “city retreats,” with London, Paris and New York among other likely venues. AMANRESORTS.COM TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES DECEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com Back then, the city was renowned for crime, grime and vehicular chaos, but it hadn’t always been that way. In the 19th century, Naples was often extolled as one of the most elegant and sophisticated cities in Europe. The 20th century was less kind. A major port, Naples was subjected to heavy Allied bombing in World War II and was extensively damaged. Of late, however, the city seems to have come to grips with some of its persistent problems: The piazzas are tidier; public buildings have been cleaned; and certain well-walked avenues have been designated for pedestrians. On our recent trip, we enjoyed strolling through the narrow streets and never felt unsafe. To be sure, Naples is still gritty in many areas, but its operatic exuberance is invariably a compensation. At restaurants and cafés, diners not only relish their food, but engage in vigorous debate about the preparations, the ingredients and the overall merits of the chef. The great actress Sophia Loren, who grew up in Naples, famously remarked, “Nothing makes a woman more beautiful ITALY IS AN INEXHAUSTIBLE DESTINATION: A NEW PLACE ALWAYS BECKONS. OUR LATEST foray began in the ancient city of Naples and on the nearby island of Ischia. Many years ago, heading into Naples after a memorable visit to the nearby Amalfi Coast — Positano lies 35 miles to the southeast — I recalled the old saying “See Naples and Die” and wondered whether it might not be more prescriptive than descriptive. Mount Vesuvius, seen across the Bay of Naples Bustling Naples and Tranquil Ischia CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

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Page 1: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected].

AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected].

This MonthNaples and IschiaDelightful hotel discoveries

Tuscan RetreatsFood, wine and serenity

Best of AspenClassic hotels reassessed

Online This MonthRead more about the high-lights of my trip to Naples, plus Tuscan wine tasting, Florence restaurants and visits to Pienza and Montalcino.

Aman Tokyo Opening

IN T HE N E WS

AMANRESORTS has

been making news for

all the wrong reasons of

late, thanks to Byzantine

ownership battles

between founder Adrian

Zecha and an exotic

cast of belligerents that

includes a Russian billion-

aire oligarch. It is therefore

a considerable relief to

accentuate the positive.

The group’s latest prop-

erty is scheduled to open

on December 22. A self-

styled “urban sanctuary,”

the 84-room Aman Tokyo

occupies the top six floors

of a 38-story tower situ-

ated between the Imperial

Palace park and Tokyo

Station. The hotel includes

a 27,000-square-foot

spa with a 90-foot pool.

Speculation is rife that this

will be the first of several

Aman “city retreats,” with

London, Paris and New

York among other likely

venues. AMANRESORTS.COM

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RC H OF T RU LY E NC H A N T I NG PL AC E S

DECEMBER 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com

Back then, the city was renowned for crime, grime and vehicular chaos, but it hadn’t always been that way. In the 19th century, Naples was often extolled as one of the most elegant and sophisticated cities in Europe. The 20th century was less kind. A major port, Naples was subjected to heavy Allied bombing in World War II and was extensively damaged.

Of late, however, the city seems to have come to grips with some of its persistent problems: The piazzas are tidier; public buildings have been

cleaned; and certain well-walked avenues have been designated for pedestrians. On our recent trip, we enjoyed strolling through the narrow streets and never felt unsafe. To be sure, Naples is still gritty in many areas, but its operatic exuberance is invariably a compensation. At restaurants and cafés, diners not only relish their food, but engage in vigorous debate about the preparations, the ingredients and the overall merits of the chef. The great actress Sophia Loren, who grew up in Naples, famously remarked, “Nothing makes a woman more beautiful

I TA LY IS A N IN E X H AUST IBL E DEST INAT ION: A N E W PL ACE A LWAYS BECKONS. OU R L AT EST

foray began in the ancient city of Naples and on the nearby island of Ischia. Many years ago, heading into Naples after a memorable visit to the nearby Amalfi Coast — Positano lies 35 miles to the southeast — I recalled the old saying “See Naples and Die” and wondered whether it might not be more prescriptive than descriptive.

Mount Vesuvius, seen across the Bay of Naples

Bustling Naples and Tranquil IschiaCL A SSIC R ESORTS, T HER M A L SPR INGS, C A M PA N I A C U ISIN E

This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

Page 2: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

8 hideaway report | December 2014

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

A LT HOU G H I T I S O N E OF T H E WOR L D ’ S MO S T G L A MOROU S S K I DE S T I N AT IO N S , A S P E N

still has fewer than 7,000 full-time residents, with development restricted by the steep terrain and rigid zoning laws. But despite a small population, the town boasts a vibrant cultural scene. The Aspen Institute draws luminaries from around the world for its annual Ideas Festival; the Wheeler Opera House hosts events during music and film festivals; and the Aspen Art Museum has just unveiled a dramatic new building.

SLOPESIDE SOPHIST IC AT ION

Aspen: Classic Hotels Restyled and Refreshed

In addition, Aspen supports two daily newspapers, cutting-edge art galleries and a part-time ballet company. It may be a small mountain town, but urbanites invariably feel right at home.

Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains nearby offer world-class runs accessed by a total of more than 40 lifts. The region usually receives between 200

and 400 inches of snow annually, making for a deep base, but this does not translate into weeks of slate-gray skies. Aspen averages around 250 to 300 sunny days each year.

On this occasion, my visit was in autumn, a season of sensational colors. Interspersed in forests of Western white pine and blue spruce, groves of aspen trees glowed golden on the mountains. The hiking was sublime. The primary purpose of my pre-ski-season trip, however, was to inspect my three recommended hotels, two of which recently completed major renovations.

I was particularly interested to see the refurbished 94-room Hotel Jerome, managed since 2011 by

Auberge Resorts. The rejuvenation of this historic hotel, built in 1889 at the height of Aspen’s silver boom, took only about five months, but the results are astonishing. Designer Todd-Avery Lenahan swept away the conservative Victorian décor in favor of Western-inspired elements. Public spaces and guest rooms are now contemporary but still rich with a sense of place. The airy lobby lounge is uncompromisingly masculine, with a rug made from belt-like strips of cowhide, tan leather Chesterfields and framed black-and-white photos of horses and vintage race cars, all presided over by a grand oil painting of the founder of the hotel, Jerome Wheeler. Just beyond, The Living Room bar has the air of a wealthy frontiersman’s cabinet of curiosities. Cozy seating groups around the fireplace invite leisurely conversation over after-dinner drinks. Much more relaxed than the Jerome’s ever-lively J-Bar, it quickly became my favorite space in the hotel.

A bright hallway leads from The Living Room past a heated outdoor swimming pool to the hotel’s second building. We rode an elevator paneled with leather belts up to our spacious fourth-floor suite. This exhibited a similarly stylish Western décor, blending traditional and contemporary elements into

“ The rejuvenation of the historic Hotel Jerome took only about five months, but the results are astonishing.

Exterior, and our suite at Hotel Jerome

Page 3: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

December 2014 | hideaway report 9

Favorite RestaurantsASPEN’S BEST RESTAURANTS draw heavily from regional ingredients, including excel-

lent freshwater fish, seasonal local produce and delicious game such as elk. In high season,

be sure to send a list of desired restaurants to your hotel’s concierge more than a month in

advance. Most places start accepting reservations 30 days ahead.

Cache Cache At this relaxing restaurant with soft lighting and white linen tablecloths,

co-owner Jodi Larner and chef Chris Lanter are committed to quality ingredients simply

prepared. The menu changes, but look for starters such as the mussels in a lobster broth

with tomatoes, garlic and Pernod. Main courses might include rack of Colorado lamb with

potatoes au gratin, all in a veal jus. 205 SOUTH MILL STREET. TEL. (970) 925-3835. CACHECACHE.COM

Ellina In a basement off a pedestrianized block of Hyman Avenue, Ellina has a simple,

cozy interior and a menu of unfussy Italian and French dishes. I can understand the

enduring popularity of the artichoke bruschetta, which comes topped with a poached

egg, Parmesan cream, shaved black truffle and truffle oil. My main course of oven-roasted

rabbit was hearty and savory. An array of notable French and Italian bottles fills the

tempting wine list. 430 EAST HYMAN AVENUE. TEL. (970) 925-2976. ELLINAASPEN.COM

Justice Snow’s This atmospheric bar and restaurant in the historic Wheeler Opera

House building is justly famous for its creative menu of cocktails, but the food proved to

be excellent, as well. A salad of burrata and heirloom tomatoes was followed by a tender

shank of Colorado lamb, matched with some cumin-spiked lentil cakes. 328 EAST HYMAN

AVENUE. TEL. (970) 429-8192. JUSTICESNOWS.COM

Piñons An Aspen favorite since 1988, Piñons has recently been given a gentle makeover.

Chef Rob Mobilian’s menu features straightforward, flavorful dishes. Among the appe-

tizers might be duck quesadilla with portobello mushrooms, spinach, pepperjack cheese

and a zingy chili aioli. A main course could be pan-seared buffalo tenderloin with Boursin

potatoes and a huckleberry sauce. 105 SOUTH MILL STREET. TEL. (970) 920-2021. PINONS.NET

The Wild Fig Tucked off the main pedestrian mall, this charming bistro hits the right

notes with linen-topped tables and menu options written on big mirrors. The cooking

marries the ingredients of France and the Mediterranean in pleasing ways. Among the

larger plates, you may find grilled fish of the day marinated with citrus, garlic and herbs;

and veal loin scallopini with potato purée, garlic spinach and a Port-fig jus. 315 EAST HYMAN

AVENUE. TEL. (970) 925-5160. THEWILDFIG.COM

A Spectacular New Art Museum

C U LT U R E

I HEARD ABOUT THE CONTROVERSY surrounding the new building of the Aspen

Art Museum long before my arrival. This privately funded “kunsthalle,” which displays

only rotating temporary exhibitions and has no permanent collection, roused the ire of

many Aspen residents from the moment Japanese architect Shigeru Ban’s distinctive

design was unveiled. In particular, people complained that it was too tall and clashed

with the town’s Victorian character. To my surprise, I discovered a graceful glass cube

clad in interlacing ribbons of wood, which allows natural light to illuminate two of the

three floors of exhibition space. The museum guards seemed more like docents, happy

to share their knowledge of the pieces and the artists. After touring the exhibitions, we

sat down to a delicious light lunch on the mountainview roof terrace, an all-season space

already popular with many locals. I suspect it won’t take long for the new museum to

become a universally accepted part of Aspen’s cultural scene. ASPENARTMUSEUM.ORG

Artichoke bruschetta at Ellina, and Colorado lamb at Justice Snow’s PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

a coherent whole. The living room included a leather sleeper sofa, plaid-upholstered burl-wood chairs accompanying a black marble-topped dining table, and a leather-clad writing desk. A chest of drawers and an ample closet offered storage in the hallway, off of which a striking bath with dual vanities and a separate tub gleamed with black marble and chrome. The corner bedroom was flooded with light during the day, affording views of the nearby mountains. Heavy cream-colored flannel drapes shaded the arched windows, and at night, we read by table lamps formed from silvery logs.

The Jerome’s fine Prospect restaurant also has a masculine décor. At lunch, the terrace provides peerless people-watching. We started with delicious edamame, redolent of sesame oil and spicy heat. The flawlessly cooked trout was even better, with moist flesh and a crunchy mustard crust, accompanied by al dente orzo with basil and roasted tomatoes. Each table receives a pan of delectable cornbread and addictive bacon marmalade.

As part of the renovation, Auberge Resorts has added a small spa in the basement, centered on an attractive relaxation lounge appointed with wood and leather. Treatments range from anti-aging therapies to a “High Altitude Sports Recovery Massage.” Through an exclusive partnership with the renowned Aspen Club & Spa, the Jerome’s guests also enjoy access to its advanced fitness programming and internationally recognized Sports Medicine Institute.

In effect, the redesign has created an entirely new hotel. The Jerome may be located on East Main Street, seven blocks from the base of the Silver Queen Gondola, but it is unquestionably back at the center of Aspen life.

Just a short walk away, the 179-room St. Regis Aspen has also undergone a recent renovation.

According to its website, the interior seeks to emulate a “contemporary version of a Gilded Age mountainside manor.” A wood-paneled entry hall with chinoiserie accents gives way to a double-sided fireplace and a lounge done in creams and grays that faces the courtyard and mountains beyond. Reception and butler desks stand before walls clad in gray felt with intricate floral cutouts. Hallway wallpapers have silvery floral patterns or prints resembling oversize toile de Jouy. A dramatic equestrian painting hangs above the bar.

Chocolate-brown and earth tones reigned in our suite, relieved by a colorful print of a Western-

Page 4: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

10 hideaway report | December 2014

HOTELS AT A GL ANCE

Hotel Jerome A95LIKE The exceptionally stylish Western design; the thoughtful service; the mountain views from our bedroom. DISLIKE The J-Bar is so popular, it can be difficult to get a seat. GOOD TO KNOW The Jerome will appeal to those who don’t require a ski-in/ski-out resort; like all three of my recommended properties, it offers a complimentary airport shuttle. PREMIER MOUNTAIN-VIEW KING, $950; ONE-BEDROOM SUITE, $1,490.

330 EAST MAIN STREET, ASPEN, CO 81611. TEL. (970) 920-1000. HOTELJEROME.AUBERGERESORTS.COM

The St. Regis Aspen Resort A92LIKE The luxurious décor of the public spaces; the commendable Chefs Club restaurant; our friendly and very helpful butler; the spacious spa. DISLIKE The occasional service missteps. GOOD TO

KNOW Instead of levying an inclusive resort fee, like the Jerome and The Little Nell, The St. Regis charges separately for entry to the spa and in-room Wi-Fi. DELUXE KING, $1,015; ONE-BEDROOM SUITE, $1,765. 315 EAST

DEAN STREET, ASPEN, CO 81611. TEL. (970) 920-3300. STREGISASPEN.COM

The Little Nell A95LIKE The ideal ski-in/ski-out location; the attentive service; the convivial Ajax Tavern. DISLIKE The design feels a tad uninspired compared to that of The St. Regis and Hotel Jerome. GOOD TO KNOW A free test-drive program allows guests to take an Audi on an independent half-day excursion. PREMIUM

MOUNTAINSIDE ROOM, $1,240; MOUNTAINSIDE ONE-BEDROOM SUITE, $4,210. 675 EAST DURANT AVENUE, ASPEN,

CO 81611. TEL. (970) 920-4600. THELITTLENELL.COM

A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information on these and nine additional recommendations in Colorado.

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

“ As close as The St. Regis and the Hotel Jerome are to the slopes, only The Little Nell can claim to be ski-in/ski-out.

inspired Hermès scarf. It was too warm outside to make much use of our two gas fireplaces, but I did appreciate the comfy sofa, the trunk-inspired Ralph Lauren work desk, the simple but striking bedroom furnishings and the well-laid-out travertine bath with a deep soaking tub. When not relaxing in our suite, I found myself inevitably drawn to the new Astor Library, a small but exceedingly comfortable wood-paneled salon with a combination of Western and art deco furnishings. Outside, a wide patio with fire pits faces the pool terrace, which has inspiring views of Aspen Mountain. Surrounded by cushioned loungers, the outdoor heated pool and its three hot tubs can be used in winter.

New dining options at The St. Regis include Trecento Quindici Decano, chiefly for Italian dishes, plus Chefs Club by FOOD & WINE, where a rotating roster of award winners from the magazine’s “Best New Chefs” list develops the menus. At the latter venue, I enjoyed savory gougères, followed by an appetizer of flavorful Colorado lamb agnolotti. My main course of Provençal seafood stew — full of shell-free lobster, crab, mussels, clams, shrimp and halibut — was equally delicious.

The resort’s Remède Spa enjoys an international reputation, and indeed, the facilities are impressive. Those with a spa treatment reservation have access to locker rooms with jetted pools, saunas, steam rooms and cold plunge pools. A crescent-shaped pool fed by three waterfalls links the locker rooms. A vapor cave and massaging waterfall have been added, and the fitness center is newly renovated.

Though the resort abuts Aspen Mountain, The St. Regis is not a ski-in/ski-out property. Like the Hotel Jerome, it has a complimentary ski shuttle. This takes guests to either Gondola Plaza (to access Aspen Mountain runs) or the Rubey Park transpor-tation center, where public shuttles serve the other three ski areas.

A s close as The St. Regis and the Hotel Jerome are to the slopes, no property in Aspen can top

the location of The Little Nell, directly adjacent to the Silver Queen Gondola. The 91-room family-owned hotel offers ski services similar to those of the Jerome and The St. Regis, as well as Friday “Powder Tours” on the resort’s snowcat. With days still in the 70s during our stay, we opted instead for a two-hour Jeep tour up Midnight Mine Road and back down Summer Road on the face of Aspen Mountain. Our personable driver-guide, Kit, had lived in Aspen for six years and was well-acquainted

The Little Nell, adjacent to the Silver Queen Gondola

Courtyard at The St. Regis

Page 5: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

December 2014 | hideaway report 11

M UC H OF T H E SK I I NG ON A SPE N MOU N TA I N IS BE S T S U I T E D T O

intermediate and advanced skiers. Snowmass, however, has runs for a range of skill levels, making it ideal for families and groups containing a wide range of skiing experience. Shuttles make Snowmass easily accessible from Aspen, a 20-minute drive away. But for many, it will make more sense to stay in Snowmass Village.

I felt skeptical when I reserved a suite at the Viceroy Snowmass, a 173-room resort at the base of the mountain, because the “village” surrounding it is only half-complete, the 2008 recession having brought development to a halt. However, the finished section is surprisingly attractive, and two mountainview restaurants have opened: the French bistro-inspired Ricard (managed by the Viceroy) and Bia Hoi, which serves upscale Asian street food.

The ski-in/ski-out Viceroy Snowmass stands adjacent to the Assay Hill chairlift, which leads to the Elk Camp Gondola halfway up the mountain. Accommodations range from 375-square-foot studios to giant four-bedroom apartments. Our one-bedroom suite came with a full galley kitchen with a washer and dryer, a den with a sleeper sofa, a full guest bath, a living room with a gas fireplace and sleeper sofa, a master bedroom with a king bed, a master bath with a separate shower and soaking tub, and a balcony with somewhat limited views. Colorful abstract prints and cowhide throw pillows enlivened the otherwise simple contemporary décor. Public spaces at the resort display more flair. A cylindrical glass fireplace punctuates the aspen log-lined lobby; an antler chandelier centerpieces the relaxation lounge of the delightful spa; and plush cabanas and lime-green loungers flank the outdoor lap pool.

We spent our time hiking among the aspens on the mountain and relaxing in the spa, dining each evening in the resort’s beautifully designed Eight K restaurant. There, I especially enjoyed a perfectly cooked pork chop with savory-sweet spaghetti squash and cipollini onions. The more casual Nest pub also had many tasty options, including delectable Korean short rib tacos. We returned to our suite each night to enjoy glasses of red wine by the fire. On such occasions, we didn’t mind being outside of Aspen one bit. H

A Surprise in SnowmassFA MILY-FR IEN DLY A LT ER NAT I V E

Viceroy Snowmass A91LIKE The spacious accommodations; the ski-in/ski-out location; the dramatic spa. DISLIKE The re- stricted outlook from our balcony. GOOD TO KNOW Floors Six through Eight have the best mountain views; the resort is ideal for skiers, hikers and families who don’t mind being away from the restaurants and nightlife of Aspen. ONE-BEDROOM SUITE, $835; TWO-BEDROOM SUITE, $1,420. 130 WOOD ROAD, SNOWMASS

VILLAGE, CO 81615. TEL. (970) 923-8000. VICEROYHOTELSANDRESORTS.COM

© C

HR

IST

IAN

HO

RA

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AP

HY

with the region’s geography, nature and history. The drive was stupendously scenic, as the town quickly gave way to mountains covered in a patchwork of deep greens and shimmering yellows. At the highest point, panoramas encompassed landmarks such as the Highland Bowl and the distant Maroon Bells, and when we descended Summer Road, the entirety of Aspen was spread below us.

Back at the resort, I quickly discovered that service remains exceptional. Many staff members knew our names within hours of our arrival. My first morning, for example, I sat down with a newspaper in the cheerful Living Room lounge. Immediately, a staffer approached, greeted me by name and offered coffee. I declined, but she brought over bar snacks and a glass of water in any case. And the assistant manager of element 47, The Little Nell’s gourmet restaurant, proved immensely helpful in securing reservations on a Monday night when many places, including her own establishment, were closed.

Named for silver’s position on the periodic table, element 47 serves ambitious and creative cuisine. Later in the week, I enjoyed a light, sophisticated and beautifully composed appetizer of Maine lobster with fennel jam and Meyer lemon. This was followed by succulent Colorado lamb loin with baby artichokes and delicious cube-shaped chickpea fritters. The wine list is extensive, well-chosen and predictably expensive.

We found the accommodations at The Little Nell to be in excellent shape. We had reserved a Premium Mountainside Room, which overlooked the tree-studded courtyard patio, a heated outdoor pool and Aspen Mountain. The contemporary space had a sumptuously soft king bed and a leather armchair and ottoman. I particularly liked the dining group facing the gas fireplace, composed of an attractive walnut table, a biscuit-colored leather chair and a chocolate suede banquette. This allowed room service meals to be consumed in a civilized manner. I also appreciated the well-designed limestone-tile bath, which had ample counter space, a separate tub and fluffy robes. Even the light switches were thoughtfully installed, with clear labels and master switches by the door and nightstand.

Although the interior design at The Little Nell does not quite reach the heights of that in the reinvented Hotel Jerome, and the spa does not have the space or amenities of the one in The St. Regis, the resort remains a top choice because of its unparalleled location and warm, attentive service. H

Viceroy Snowmass

Page 6: CLASSIC RESORTS, THERMAL SPRINGS, CAMPANIA CUISINE …...Of course, most winter visitors come for the skiing. Besides the slopes rising at the edge of downtown, three other mountains

L A ST WOR D

AMID THE BIZARRE

mass hysteria occasioned

by the West African Ebola

outbreak, one group

of affected people has

attracted few column

inches and remarkably

little concern. The owners

and employees of Africa’s

safari camps and lodges

have seen bookings dry up

and cancellations prolif-

erate. Safari businesses

often work within very tight

margins. Many now confront

severe financial difficulty.

And loyal staff face the

prospect of temporary

layoffs or worse. So a few

facts bear repeating. At

the time of writing, there

have been no cases of

Ebola in any of the principal

safari countries of East

and Southern Africa. The

affected areas in Liberia,

Guinea and Sierra Leone are

almost equidistant — about

3,500 miles — from Nairobi,

Johannesburg and London.

Last year, about 1.3 million

people in Africa died from

malaria, but this atrocious

statistic did not serve as a

deterrent to American trav-

elers. Appalling though the

Ebola outbreak has been for

thousands of unfortunate

West Africans, the extreme

overreaction here in the

United States has been

almost entirely irrational. In

fact, given that many of the

chief wildlife areas are now

virtually deserted, this is an

ideal moment to undertake

the safari trip of a lifetime.

Ebola in Perspective

L A ST LO OK

Pecorino cheeses aging at Fattoria PianPorcino in Pienza, 35 miles southeast of Siena.

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

From My NotebookMayfair Boutique Hotel DebutThere was a period in

the 1980s when no visit

to London was complete

without lunch at Le Caprice.

The salmon cakes were

legendary; the people-

watching was extraordi-

nary; and the two owners,

Chris Corbin and Jeremy

King, were personifications

of urbane charm. The duo

went on to open The Ivy,

to revive J. Sheekey, and

to create The Wolseley. All

three restaurants rapidly

became London legends

and landmarks. Now Corbin

and King have opened The

Beaumont, a boutique

hotel in Mayfair. Given their

track record, I assume it will

be a triumph.

Mara Panorama Steve and Nicky Fitzgerald

are veterans of the safari

business, having spent

15 years at the helm of

&Beyond, a pioneering

ecotourism company. Their

latest venture is Angama

Mara: two camps, each

comprising 15 tented suites

designed by well-known

architect Silvio Rech, that

overlook the Maasai Mara

from a perch 1,000 feet

above the plains. Angama

is a Swahili word meaning

“suspended in midair,” and

the suites boast uninter-

rupted views of one of the

most spectacular land-

scapes in Africa. The prop-

erty is the fulfillment of a

dream for the Fitzgeralds. It

is set to open in June 2015.

Auberge in the South PacificI have long been a fan of

Fiji, a country with some of

the friendliest people in the

world. My three recom-

mended properties are all

located on small private

islands, as I have yet to find

a resort on the main island

of Viti Levu that meets

the required standard.

However, this may be about

to change with the news

that Auberge Resorts has

taken over the manage-

ment of a new property on

the southern coast. Nanuku

Auberge Resort Fiji

comprises 18 sumptuous

suites and villas, plus a

clubhouse and spa. I intend

to pay a visit and will report

back as soon as possible.

Tower ReduxIn the ’90s, there was no

restaurant I enjoyed more

than Stars in San Francisco.

Owned by chef Jeremiah

Tower, the place made you

feel as though you were at

the center of the universe.

A glass of Champagne

magically appeared in your

hand when you entered,

and the food was inven-

tive and delicious. Tower

closed Stars in 1999 and

retired to Mexico. So it was

with astonishment that I

learned that he is taking

over at New York’s Tavern

on the Green. The beloved

restaurant reopened earlier

this year after an extensive

makeover to disastrous

reviews. I can’t wait to see

what Tower will do.

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Kelly Zhu Illustrator Melissa Colson

T R AV EL OFFICE N E WS

NOW IS AN IDEAL TIME OF YEAR to arrange a family trip. A shared vacation makes a wonderful holiday gift, and we

would be delighted to help assemble an attractive package to put under the tree. This season might also be one of the

few occasions when all family members are gathered in the same place, making it the perfect moment to start planning

for 2015. Dreaming up a vacation together can be a wonderful bonding experience. And traveling as a family never fails to

create memories everyone will long cherish, whether you book a barge charter in France, an eco-adventure in Costa Rica,

a beach vacation in the Caribbean or a safari in the Okavango. Many of the most desirable accommodations — especially

interconnecting rooms — fill up quickly for peak periods, so it is best to plan early to avoid disappointment.

Contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected].

Planning a Memorable Family Vacation

Online Exclusives Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography throughout the month on our website. Look for these symbols in print and visit The Hideaway Report at AndrewHarper.com.

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