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Contents:

BEADED jEUwelry Project and creation of Beading Manual Beading supplies, tools and stringing material

Croatian Beading Modules 1 Baranja collar 2 Kajica choker -West Slavonia 3 Moslavina necklace

Hungarian Beading Modules 1 Fringed choker from Őcsény 2 Twisted collar from Sárköz 3 Cross-stitched collar from Sárköz

Romanian Beading Modules 1 Beaded collar from Cerbál 2 Tászli from Gyimes 3 Latitar from Hunedoara

Bulgarian Beading Modules 1 Tumbalki from Central Rhodopes 2 Gushter (Lizard) from Eastern Bulgaria 3 Kyustek (Beaded rope) from Rhodopes

Production of Czech glass beads

Redesign of traditional beaded jewelry Traditional beaded jewelry on the market Beading patterns Project team

BEADED jEUwelry Project and Creation of the Beading Manual

The BEADED jEUwelry project intends to collect the experiences and best practices in traditional bead-ed jewelry making by involving six partner institutions from Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria and the Czech Republic.

The project has been developed within the Lifelong Learning Programme of the European Commis-sion, as Leonardo da Vinci – Learning partnership, dedicated to vocational education and with the total lifetime of 22 months (September 2013 – July 2015.).

The aim of the project was to research the tradition and culture of beaded jewelry making or glass-bead production in the member countries; master the symbolism of patterns and colors, find simi-larities and differences in ornaments, colors and purposes.

During six international meetings and local pilot courses, in the member countries, we prepared and developed the common training methodology with country-specific modules and IT designer pro-gramme for drawing beading patterns. Furthermore, the project also focuseds on shaping the qualification system of traditional crafts and skills in the area; beginning to create a referential framework for a new profession of a traditional beaded jewelry maker.

Finally, with the help of contemporary design, the project wisheds to assist in the „reinventiong“ of traditional jewelry to find its new market value and make it more widely available through appropri-ate galleries, shops and online markets.

During the project, travel exhibitions organized in the member countires, together with the final Fashion show called „Tradition meets modern in beaded jewelry“ demonstrated rich heritage of tra-ditional beaded jewelry and glass beads production. It also has great potential for its contemporary use – with different forms of redesign and possibilities for its position on the market.

This Beading Manual is the result of team work of the diverse national teams consisting of ethnolo-gists, beaders, designers, project managers and – students of beading courses.

During the five local pilot courses, organized during 2014. and 2015. in Dubrava Peoples University (HR), TEMI Capital Cultural Centre (HU), The Artera Foundation (RO), Chitalishte Development Foun-dation (BG) and Hodina H (CZ) beading teachers and students together tested and improved mod-ules for this Manual, that are parts of the common training methodology for proposed educational program of „traditional beaded jewelry maker“.

Kokula art&craft shop (HR), as a partner from the market, tested the best ways of selling and posi-tioning redesigned traditional jewelry on the market.

With this Manual we want to share the rich heritage of European traditional beaded jewelry create sufficient means for its popularization and use it adapted to the current needs of fashion and the laws of market.

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Ethnological background

People have always been fond of decoration and adornment of their clothes and exposed body parts. Thus jewelry has often been an ornament traced on the skin or an adornment of various materials, mainly on the head, neck, arms and legs, but also on clothes. In the past, skilful women used the beads they collected of either precious coral, natural pearl, and shell or cheaper materials such as bone, wood, glass or in modern times, - plastic. They chose yarn, hair or horsehair for stringing the beads together. Up to the present, jewelry has gradually developed as an important part of fashion, following all the trends. Women always want to be noticed, but also, by wearing specific jewelry, to indicate their status, age, social or economic background.Being aware of the importance of the inheritage of traditional culture, especially the art of jewelry making, we have tried to offer and apply the member countries’ typical knowledge and skills of tradi-tional jewelry making, as well as to exchange mutual experience. Traditional jewelry of Croatia, Hun-gary, Romania and Bulgaria, and the Czech glass beads production testifies the richness of the repre-sentative heritage of the national handicrafts, their similarities, but also distinctive skills and jewelry forms.Therefore this project also plays a part of ethnological research. Ultimately, we have a common goal: to foster and promote the contemporary role of ethnological reflection and its usage.

Beading supplies, tools and stringing material:

1. Scissors2. Wire cutter3. Flat-nose pliers4. Beading needle5. Beading thread6. Nylon thread7. Crimp beads

8. Clasps – bolt clasps9. Ribbon10. Beads: seed beads11. Sewing tape measure12. Wide bead scoop13. Beading mat

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Module 1 - Baranja collar

Knitted beads from Baranja is a col-lar made of tiny colourful glass beads strung in form of a net.

It was typically worn as a collar by ma-ture married women on holy days or on important festive occasions, while girls used to wear the same necklaces, but in different colors. According to ethnological sources its origin dates back to the first half of the 20th cen-tury.

Task 1: read the text, look at the picture 1 and answer the questions:

• Which part of the country is the necklace from?• Which colors and materials were used to make the traditional version?• On what occasion and by what age group was the necklace traditionally worn?

Task 2: Prepare the beading materials and tools:

Task 3: Study the pattern:

Level of difficulty:

Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

20g size 2,5 mm white seed beads

Beading needle

Knitted beads; threading beads using a beading needle.

Beading of this type of necklace is done vertically; down and up and then down again repeatedly, by using only one thread.

20g size 2,5 mm transparent seed beads10g size 2,5 mm black seed beads5g size 2,5 mm red seed beadsClaspBeading thread

Traditional Croatian jewelryUp to the present, traditional Croatian jewelry of the Pannonia region and Northwestern Croatia is an integral part of traditional folkwear. Following the impact of European regions it gradually became a kind of fashion accessory. The skilled women used to Pick up the grains of precious coral, shells or cheaper glass and plastic beads. Jewelry represented their status, age, social and economic background.

Photo by: web source

Step 1: Take a comfortable length of beading thread and pick up a crimp bead by pulling the needle through twice. Leave a 20 cm long tail.

Step 2: Pick up 68 black beads. Stitch through the 8th bead from the bottom.

Step 3: Add 5 black, 1 white, 2 transparent and 1 white beads. Stitch through the 10th black bead from the bottom.

Step 4: Pick up 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white, 1 black, 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white beads. Stitch through the 10th black bead from the bottom. Repeat this step to the top.

Step 5: Pick up 4 red, 1 black, 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white beads. Stitch through the black bead from the top.

Step 6: Pick up 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white, 1 black, 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white beads. Stitch through the black bead from the top. Repeat this step to the last black bead in this row.

Step 7: Pick up 12 black beads. Stitch through the 8ht bead from the bottom.

Step 8: Add 5 black, , 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white beads. Stitch through the 1st black bead from the previous row, from the bottom.

Step 9: Pick up 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white, 1 black, 1 white, 2 transparent, 1 white beads. Stitch through the black bead from the bottom. Repeat this step to the last black bead in this row.

Step 10: Repeat steps 5 to 9 until collar is 40 cm long.

Step 11: Pick up 9 black beads and stitch through the black bead in the previous row. Repeat to the top.

Step 12: Add the clasp on both sides.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by: Dunja Vukovic

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Module 2 - Kajica choker

Kajica, also called košić, košic, kajica, kobasa meaning a basket or a sausage, is a necklace from Daruvar surround-ing area, central Posavina, and villages in the western part of Slavonia, eastern Croatia.It consists of tiny black, white, dark blue or blue beads that form a pattern similar to the one on women’s national folk-wear. It was worn by girls and women on Sundays and lesser holy days. It appears in the 20th century.





Module 1 – Kajica necklace


Materials needed:

Tools:

Beading tips:

Scissors

10g size 2,5 mm white seed beads

Beading needle

The first part of beading process is shown in red and the second part in blue.This necklace is stitched in two rows.

10g size 2,5 light blue seed beads

Beading thread

80 cm long white ribbon

Photo by: web source

Step 1: Take a comfortable length of beading thread and pick up a crimp bead by stitching through it twice. Leave a 20 cm long tail.

Step 2: Pick up 5 white and 3 blue beads.

Step 3: Stitch through the first white bead from the bottom.

Step 4: Add 3 white beads and 1 blue bead and stitch through the 2nd blue bead from the top.

Step 5: Pick up 1 blue bead and 4 white beads and stitch through the white bead over the blue from the bottom.Continue beading following the red thread on the pattern, up to 35 cm length.

Step 6: Start the second row with the crimp bead. Pick up 4 white beads and stitch through the corresponding white bead in the first row.

Step 7: Pick up 3 blue beads and stitch through the first bead from the top. Continue following the blue thread on the pattern.

Step 8: On both sides of the necklace add 6 beads to form a loop.

Step 9: Pull a 40 cm long ribbon through each loop and stitch it down on each side.

Task 4: Beading:


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Module 3 - Moslavina necklace

The local name for the Moslavina necklace is kraluš, kraluž, kraglin (collar), struka, struke. It is multi-strand necklace worn by girls, marriageable girls and married women in Moslavina, nothern Croatia.Tiny glass beads, seed beads, of different colors: white, red, blue and green, were combined in various shapes.According to ethnological records, wearing Moslavina necklace with the nation-al folkwear dates back to the beginning of the 20th century.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

20g size 2,5 mm black seed beads

Wire cutters

Tongs / chain nose pliers

Stringing, multi-strand beading

This is a contem-porary version of Moslavina kraluš. For a 40 cm long necklace make 9 rhombuses.

The first 2 beads are included in the num-bers mentioned.

60g size 2,5 mm amber seed beads18 m 0,25mm nylon thread

Clasp2 stoppers / crimps

Photo by: Slavica Moslavac, national costume of village Osekovo

Step 1: Cut 6, 3 meter-long strands of nylon thread.

Step 2: Pull all the 6 strands through the clasp and put the ends together by placing the clasp in the middle to get 12 strands. Pull all the 12 strands through the stopper, stitch on the stopper to the clasp and squeeze with pliers to secure all the strands.

Step 3: Divide the 12 strands into 4 groups of 3. Picj up 40+30+30+40 beads.• 2 outer groups - pick up 40 beads on• 2 inner groups - pick up 30 beads onAll the beads in this step are of the same color (amber).

Step 4: Take one inner strand with 30 beads and pick up 5 amber beads and 1 black bead.

Step 5: Take the second inner strand with 30 beads and pick up 5 amber beads.Pull the strand through the black bead from step 4 from the bottom, so thatthe 2 strands cross ach other in the black bead.

Step 6: Take the second strand from the first group with 30 beads, pick up 5 amberand 1 black beads.

Task 4: Beading:

Step 7: Take the strand coming from the black bead in the middle and pick up 2 blackbeads. Pull through the black bead from step 6 from the bottom, forming a triangle.

Step 8: Keep repeating steps 6-7 until all the strands are used up.

Step 9: Go back to the middle again. Keep repeating steps 6-7 until all the strandsare used up and you get 2 sides of a rhombus.

Step 10: Go back to the middle again. Take the left strand and pick up 3 black beads on.

Step 11: Take the right strand and pick up 2 black beads on. Pull through the lastblack bead from step 10 from the bottom, so that the 2 strands cross each other inthe black bead.

Step 12: Pick up 3 black beads on the left strand from step 10 and 2 black beadson a new strand on the right and pull it through the last black bead from the left strand.Keep working this way until all the right strands are used up.

Step 13: Repeat steps 10 - 12 until all the strands are used up. You have formed a big blackrhombus, consisting of 5x5 little rhombuses ( see the pattern) with 6 strandscoming out on each side.

Step 15: Take the second right strand from the middle and pick up 10 amber beads.Pull the strand through the last bead once more and tighten it.

Step 14: Take the right strand from the middle and pick up 10 amber beads.Pull the strand through the last bead once more and tighten it.

Step 16: Pick up 2 more amber beads on each subsequent right strand making 20 beadson the 6th strand. Always pull the strand through the last bead once more and tighten it .

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Step 23: Now 2 sides of the 2nd rhombus are formed, so go on followingthe instructions for the 1st rhombus ( steps 10- 13) and then step 14.Keep on until the 9th rhombus is completed.

Keep stringing the necklace until the desired length is reached. The traditional version had 7 rhombuses and a ribbon for tying it, but in a contemporary version of Moslavina kraluš has 9 rhombuses for a 40 cm necklace.

Step 24: When the ninth rhombus is completed, pick up 5 amber beads on all the available strands. Put the neighbor-ing 3 strands together and pick up 40/ 30/30 40 beads, according to the pattern.

Step 25: Pull all the 12 strands through the stopper and then through the second part of the clasp and then work back through the stopper and several beads in the rows.

Step 26: Tighten the strands one by one and check that the beads form a symmetrical shape and that the thread is not visible.If that is the case, you can now squeeze the stopper flat and trim the excess thread.

Step 21: Keep repeating step 20 using the 1st available strand on the left until all the strands are used up.

Step 22: Go back to the middle and take the strand exiting the middle black bead onthe right. Pick up 3 black beads and pull the 1st available right strand throughthe 3rd bead. Repeat until all the strands are used up.

Step 20: Pick up 3 black beads on the strand exiting the black bead on the left .Pull the second left strand (taken from the middle ) from the bottom through the last blackbead, so that the 2 strands cross each other in the black bead.

Step 18: Pick up 20,30,40,50 and 65beads ( as in the pattern) on each subsequentleft strand. Always pull the strand through the last bead once more and tighten it.

Step 19: Pick up one black bead on the left strand from the middle and pull the rightstrand from the middle through it.

Step 17: Take the left strand coming from the middle and pick up 10 amber beads. Pull the strand through the last bead once more and tighten it.

Step 18.

Step 22.


Photo of beading steps: Szabolcs Marczel

Module 1 - Fringed necklace from Őcsény

It was usual to make beaded necklaces from fringes in Sárköz, South Transdanu-bian region, Hungary. They were different from the collars because of their vertical stitch.The fringed necklaces are usually made of black base color, it was decorated with white, red, wine-red, silver or gold.First we make a simple bead ribbon, between its elements we hang the grow-ing size fringes to the middle, then back. It can be decorated in several ways. Its original colors are black with white or red selector beads.






Material needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

6g size 2 mm black seed beads

Beading needle

Simple daisy chain ribbon with grow-ing sized fringes

The fringes are easier to make by holding the thread tight when turning back.

100g size 2 mm red seed beads

Beading thread40 cm black ribbon

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Traditional Hungarian jewelryIn Hungary, only the Sárköz women wore netted beaded collars over the shirt shoulder in the neck.These are “toss-in-the-neck”, beaded adornments, laced beads and rarely bead fringe collars.The first beaded collars were made to be closed as a ring; the looseness was regulated with a ribbon.The most known beaded collar is the “Nyaksi” which is made with twisted or cross netting techniquefitted onto a textile band decorated with beads, flower ornaments and flitters.

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a courtesy of Mária Decsi-Kiss

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Step 1: Cut a comfortable length of thread. Pick up a stop bead and pull the needle through it twice. Pick p 4 black and 1 red beads.

Step 2: Pass back through the 1st black bead to create a drop form.

Step 3: Pick up 2 black beads.

Step 4: Pass back through the 4th black bead. Now we have our first flower.

Step 5: Pick up 2 black and 1 red beads and pass through the 7th bead.

Step 6: Pick up 2 black beads and pass through the 9th bead.

Step 7: Follow the pattern and repeat steps 5-6 and make 96 flowers.

Step 8: After finishing the chain, remove the stop bead and form a circle with 6 black beads. Pass through the circle twice to secure. Repeat this step on the other side. Hide the thread between the beads and trim it close to the work.

Step 9: Take a new thread to make the fringes. Pass through the lower black bead of the 1st flower.

Step 10: Pick up 10 black 1 red 3 black beads.

Step 11: Skip the last 3 black beads and pass back through the red and the 10 black beads.

Step 12: Weave through the lower black bead of the next (2nd) flower.

Step 13: Pick up again 10 black 1 red 3 black beads, then pass through th ered and the 10 black beads to make the next fringe. Repeat step 13 until you make 20 fringes.

Step 14: Follow the pattern to make all the fringes. Pay attention to the steady increase of fringes, count them carefully.

Step 15: Hide the thread between the beads and then stitch a 20 cm long ribbon through the circles.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by Gyöngyi Nagy

Module 2 - Twisted necklace from Sárköz

The original Sárköz colors are red, black, yellow (gold), blue and green.This necklace was worn by girls and young wives, in different size and colors, depending on their status.

The Sárköz beaded collars are formed from horizontal lines. First we make a thin beaded ribbon, and then in its certain beads we stitch the next row. The following lines always connect in the middle beads of previous row. We make twisted rows.






Material needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

min. 100g size 2mm black seed beads

Beading needle50 mm wide satin ribbon

Simple daisy chain ribbon with 5 grow-ing twisted rows

Do not forget to turn the necklace when you begin a new row.

10g size 2mm red seed beads

70-80 pieces of bigger (size 4mm) seed beads or size 3-4 mm czech crytal beads

a courtesy of Mária Decsi-Kiss

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Step 1: Pick up a stop bead and pull the needle through it twice. Pick up 4 black and 1 red beads.

Step 2: Pass through the 1st black bead to create a drop form. Pick up 2 black beads and pass through the 4th black bead.

Step 3: Pick up 2 black and 1 red beads to the needle and pass through the 7th bead. Then pick up 2 black beads and pass through the 9th bead. Follow the pattern- and repeat these steps. Make an odd number of flowers. (95 or 97)

Step 4: After finishing the chain, remove the stop bead and form a circle with 6 black beads. Pass through the circle twice to secure. Repeat this step on the other side.

Step 5: Start the first twisted row. Pick up 5 black, 1 red and 5 black beads and pass through the 3rd lower bead from right to left.

Step 6: Repeat this step until the end of the row.

Now put your work down on the table, do not hold it in your hands.

Step 7: At the end of the row turn the necklace to start beading from left to right. Lead the needle always over the necklace to make the twists from the right direction. Pick up 5 black, 1 red, 6 black, 1 red and 6 black beads. Pass through the 1st red bead from right to left.

Step 8: Pick up 6 black, 1 red and 6 black beads and pass through the next red bead. Repeat this step until the end of the row then turn the necklace.

Step 9: Pick up 6 black, 1 red, then 7 black, 1 red and 7 black beads and start the 3rd row.

Step 10: Pass through the 1st red bead from right to left. Make the 3rd row with 7-1-7 beads.

Step 11: Make the 4th row with 8-1-8 beads.

Step 12: Make the last row with 9-1-9. Use red bigger seed beads or faceted crystal beads.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by Mária Decsi-Kiss

Module 3 - Cross-stitched necklace from Sárköz

An original black cross-stitched necklace was found in Felsőnyék, and another in Zengővárkony, its first row was twisted, the other ones were cross-stitched. Its rows were made in different colors.

This necklace was made vertically. In every second „flower” of the first bead ribbon we stitch the next row, then turn back at the end and stitch in the odd flowers. Not only the 2 lines are crossed, but they are twisted around each other. The last row is decorated with bigger beads.


Which part of the country is the necklace from?Which colors and materials were used to make the traditional version?On what occasion and by what age group was the necklace traditionally worn?



end of the 1st row end of the 2nd row


Material needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

min. 100-120 g size 2mm black seed beads

Beading needle50 mm wide satin ribbon

Simple beaded rib-bon with 5 growing cross-stitched rows

Beaded ribbon end of the 2nd row end of the 1st row

10g size 2mm green silver lined seed beads

70-80 pieces of bigger (size 4mm) seed beads or size 3-4 mm czech crystal beads

Photo by Mária Decsi-Kiss

beaded ribbon

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Step 1: Put a stop bead to the thread then pick up 8 black beads and pass back through the 1st -one.

Step 2: Pick up 4 black beads and pass back to the 7th one. Make on add number of chains.

Step 3: Pick up 5 black beads then pass back.

Step 4: Repeat steps 2-3 until the desired.

Step 8: Pull the needle from top to the bottom.

Step 10: Pick up 6 black, 1 green and 6 black to the needle and continue beading the same way back.

Step 14: Pull the needle through the 2nd green bead.

Step 16: When you finish the last row, hide the thread between the beads.

Step 17: Make the closing with the satin ribbon.

Task 4: Beading:

Step 5: After finishing the chain, remove the stop bead and form a circle with 6 black beads. Repeat this step on the other side.

Step 6: Take the thread to the starting point, which is the middle lower bead of the 1st chain. Pick up 5 black, 1 green and 5 black beads. Skip the next chain and pass through the next middle bead. Repeat this step until the end of the row.

Step 7: Continue beading on the same way back. Take the same number of beads as before and stitch to the skipped middle beads. Take care and lead your needle under the next loop.

Step 9: Pick up 6 black, 1 green, 6 black, 1 green and 6 black. Turn back to the 2nd green bead and start the 2nd row.

Step 11: At the end of the second row pick up 6 black, 1 green, 7 black, 1 green and 7 black beads and turn back to the second green bead. Repeat this step until the end of the row then back.

Step 12: At the end of the 3rd row pick up 7 black, 1 green, 8 black, 1 green and 8 black beads and turn back to the 2nd green bead. Repeat this step until the end of the row then back.

Step 13: Start the last row. Pick up 8 black, 1 green, 9 black, 1 green crystal bead and 3 black beads. Turn back to the crystal then take 9 black beads.

Step 15: Pick up 9 black, 1 green crystal and 3 black beads, turn back to the crystal and take 9 black beads.


Module 1 - Beaded Collar from Čerbál

The “cserbeli” beaded collar originates from Cerbăl, Hunedoara County. The first photos are from the 19th century from the small village Cerbăl, this is where its name comes from. There are several samples in the ethnological Museum at Buda-pest. Its pattern is in vertical stripes made from different colored beads. Beading is easier by holding the thread tight when turning back.The traditional version of the collar was very colourful. They used black with brown, white and burgundy. The collar was worn mainly by young girls and married women on different family occasions and religious holidays.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

50g black short tubes

Beading needle

Thread

vertical gridtechnique by stitching in every 4th -bead

It is easier to bead if you hold the thread tight when you turn back.

Traditional Romanian jewelryBracelets and necklaces in Romania are made from small beads, stitched on one or even up to 24 threads, very resistant and passed on from generation to generation. They have ancient floral and geometrical motives, similar to those used by our ancestors: wolf teeth, animals or birds paws and roses. The most widely spread are the rhombus patterns.

Photo by Szidónia Péter

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Step 1: Cut 2 m of black thread and pass through the needle.

Step 2: Put a small pile in front of you from the beads chosen.

Step 3: Take a different color bead, a stop bead, and pull towards the end of the thread . leave only 25 cm. Pass the needle again through the bead and this will stop the beads.

Step 4: Pick up 16 black beads. Let them slide to the stop bead.

Step 5: Pass your needle through the 8th black bead and pull the thread through. If you arrange the beads you will see a nice small rhombus at the end of the row.

Step 6: Pick up 3 black beads according to the pattern and pass the needle through the 4th -bead picked up before – take care and pass the thread from below. If you are ready you can see the 2nd rhombus.

Step 7: Pick up another 3 black beads which we pass through the 1st bead after the stop bead. The 1st unit of the pat-tern is ready.

Step 8: Pick up 3 black beads and pass the needle back through the 3rd -bead from the spire and begin the 2nd unit of the pattern.

Step 9: Pick up 3 black beads and pass through from up in the 2nd black bead of the previous unit.

Step 10: Pick up another 3 black beads and pass the needle from up in the middle of the next unit.

Step 11: Here is the lower part of the collar. Pick up 5 black beads and turn back to pass the needle through the middle bead of the previously added 3 black ones

Step 12: Pick up 3 black beads and pass the needle from down through the 2nd -bead of the previous 3 bead unit. Please follow the schema thoroughly.

Step 12: Thread 3 black beads and pass the needle through the top bead of the necklace – so now you have the 2nd unit of the pattern.

Further on, follow the pattern with the steps of the 2nd unit. If the desired length is ready, go backwards and into the row near the neck and add a 9’-/0 size rice-bead between each stick. After removing the stop bead hide the thread between the beads and put on the strap or the string.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by Zsuzsanna Szabó Gulyásné

Module 2 - Tászli from Gyimes

It is a round collar necklace worn by women in Csángó region. This piece origi-nally was made of bugle beads and it was a bit wider. The traditional colors were white, black and burgundy, but later we can find green and blue as well. The collar was decorated with different patterns mainly rhombuses and stars.It was used mainly by girls and young women.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

20 g size 2 mm black seed beads5 g grey

5 g burgundy

Beading needle

vertical gridtechnique by stitching from bead to bead

Beading is easier by holding the thread tight when turning back.


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Step 1: Cut a piece of thread about 1.5 m long from a spool in matching color. Put the thread in the needle.

Step 2: Choose 3 matching color (offered choice: grey, burgundy, black) and prepare them in 3 small piles in front of you on the mat.

Step 3: Pick up a bead on your needle and pull it towards the end of the thread leaving only 25 cm at the end.

Step 4: Pull the needle through the bead again to create the stop bead.

Step 5: Pick up 13 black beads and 3 burgundy ones. Slide the beads to the stop bead.

Step 6: Pull your needle through the last black bead and fasten it then you can see a nice picot at the end of the row.

Step 7: Pick up 5 black beads and - following the pattern - pull the needle through the 6th-bead from the previously picked up black beads. If you are ready, you can see the 1st rhombus of the net.

Step 8: Pick up 5 black beads and pull the needle through the 1st bead from below. Arrange this stitch and fasten it, then you can see the first pattern unit forming.

Step 9: Now pick up 2 burgundy and 3 black beads and turn backwards, as it is shown in the pattern, passing the nee-dle through the 4th black bead from the spire and we start the 2nd unit of the pattern.

Step 10: Pick up 2 grey and 1 burgundy and again 2 grey beads and pass the needle through the 6th black bead of the previous unit

Step 11: There we arrived to the picot at the end of the necklace. Take 3 black and 3 burgundy beads on your needle and pass through the 1st- black bead you picked uplast. Fasten the beads to the rest of the pattern.

Step 12: Repeat steps 8 - 12 according to the pattern, just change the colors of the beads – the number of the beads remains the same. When you finish the necklace, remove the stop bead, -hide the thread between the beads and put a ribbon or a string at the end.

Task 4: Beading:


Module 3 - Lătitar from Hunedoara

This “lătițar” is from Hunedoara, the beginning of the 20th century. The tradi-tional folkwear with beaded jewelry was specific for the regions situated higher than 800 m, in mountainous small villages. This region is called Pădureni din Haţeg and it is situated around Poiana Ruscani. In this villages, girls and ladies until the age of 50 wore the lătițar with their folkwear, the younger the girls were, the more colorful their necklace was. The necklace is a piece of jewelry decorated with geometric patterns. The tradi-tional collar was black, white and deep burgundy. The piece we included in the manual is redesigned in color but the techniques are the same. The necklace is quite elegant. The necklace had 2 different names lătițar and lătița. The bride-to-be girls wore necklaces which harsh, mixed colors and a belt with small keys on it.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

50 g size 2 mm black seed beads

10 g grey

10 g burgundy

Beading needle

vertical grid tech-nique following the pattern very thoroughly

the pattern needs a lot of patience and stamina. Hold the ready made part very tight to have a nice symmetric pattern.

Photo by Zsuzsanna Szabó Gulyásné

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Step 1: Take a 2 m long thread , pick up a stop bead, pull the needle through it twice and leave a 25 cm long tail.Step 2: Pick up 15 black beads, stitch in the 7th -black bead from below and pull your thread carefully. If you do it prop-erly you can see a nice circle at the end of your thread.Step 3: Take 5 burgundy beads and - following the attached pattern - stitch into the 1st bead from the previously taken 5 black beads from below. If you are ready with this you have the 1st rhombus of the pattern.Step 4: Turn back by picking up 2 black and 3 burgundy beads. Stitch it in the 3rd burgundy bead counted from the top and start the 2nd unit of the pattern. Take 5 burgundy beads and pass through from top to down to the 3rd black bead of the earlier added unit.Step 5: Now we are at the picot at the bottom of the collar. Pick up 6 black and 5 burgundy beads and pass through the just added 1st black bead. Keep the beads tightly.Step 6: After picking up 3 black and 2 burgundy beads, stitch in the 3rd burgundy bead from the previously added bur-gundy beads. Pay attention to the pattern.Step 7: Pick up 5 burgundy beads and stitch in the burgundy one at the top of the necklace. With this step, you get the 2nd unit of the pattern.Step 8: Pick up 2 black beads and 3 burgundy ones and stitch in the middle one from the previously taken 5 burgundy beads. Stitch into it from upwards.Step 9: Pick up 2 burgundy and 3 black beads and stitch in the black bead in the middle of the previous unit.

Step 10: Pick up 2 grey, 1 black and again 2 grey beads and stitch it in the 3rd -black bead of the lower loop. Fasten them to the previously beaded part carefully and tightly.

Step 11: Prepare for the lower part. Pick up -11 black beads and turning back from below, stitch into the 3rd -black bead.Step 12: Pick up 2 grey and 3 black beads and stitch in the black one from below.Step 13: Take again 3 black and 2 grey beads and stitch in the black bead from below.Step 14: Pick up 3 black and 2 burgundy beads and stitch in the burgundy bead on the top of the necklace. Here you have the 3rd pattern unit.Following the given pattern, pay attention to fasten the beads tight. If you bead loosely the thread will show out and it won’t be nice. Do the beading until the desired length is reached, but be careful – make only an odd number of units, i.e. -9, 11 or 13 in order to have a central unit in the collar. When you finish the necklace, remove the stop bead and sew on the strap or make a small ear from the remaining beads. Then you can put a string or a ribbon at the end. This is the traditional style.

Task 4: Beading:


Module 1 - Tumbalki necklace

Tumbalki – seed beads on cotton thread. This necklace is made with a needle, using 4, 6 or even more sepa-rate threads. It originates from the area of Central Rhodopes (Southern Bulgar-ia), where beaded jewellery was gener-ally favoured by girls and women of any age. The older samples of tumbalki tend to be predominantly blue, whereas more recent ones are made in multiple colors. The prevailing color points to the idea that this necklace was also worn as an amulet, until mid 20th century or even later. This easy-to-acquire tech-nique could be applied to make both spectacular necklaces and bracelets.





Materials needed:

Tools:

Beading tips:

Scissors

3 pieces of thread, about 300 cm

Beading needle

you can start by making a brace-let, using shorter threat in order to master the tech-nique more easily. Instead of thread you can as well use fishing line.

varied colored seed beads 2 mm

TUMBALKI

Pic.1

Pic.2

Pic.3

3x/10 cm/60 seed beads

4x/18 seed beads

3x/30 seed beads

TUMBALKI

Pic.1

Pic.2

Pic.3


4x/18 seed beads

3x/30 seed beads

TUMBALKI

Pic.1

Pic.2

Pic.3


4x/18 seed beads

3x/30 seed beads

Traditional Bulgarian jewelryThe beaded jewelry tradition has deep roots in Bulgarian folk culture. The ubiquitous presence of beads is to be traced back in time and is still to be found in items of ethnographic interest – girls’ head and hair orna-ments, beaded belts and costume trimmings, amulets against evil eyes for everyone to wear, accessories such as beaded bottles, purses and pocket watch holders. Region-wise beads are spread almost all-over the country and appear in a great variety of jewelry patterns and designs.

Photo by M. Zvancharova


22 23

Module 2 - Gushter (lizard)

Gushter (lizard) – seed beads on cotton or fishing line and colorful woolen thread tassels. This is a head ornament from the area of Varna (Eastern Bulgaria) worn by young girls in combination with other beaded jewelry. It is used to ward off evil spirits, featuring the diamond shaped figure with a one-bead centre. The technique implies the use of 4 needles of the thread or 4 ends of the fishing line. The ornament comes in various colors.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Beading tips:

Scissors

190 red glass beads

130 white beads

136 blue beads

Beading needle

attaching the ready item to a safety pin could turn it into a nice brooch.

thread or fishing line

4 needles for stringing beads

colourful woolen tassels – 8 strings per loop

1. 3.

4.

2.

8 pc.

4.

5.

Girls in the national costume from the town of Kubrat, first half of 20. c. They are wearing multiple beaded head pieces and beaded belts

Step 1: Cut 3 pieces of thread, at about 300 cm. Tie them together.

Step 2: Follow the pattern and make 3 strings of 60 beads each. Tie another knot.

Step 3: Now pull the 3 strings together through a larger bead. Pick up 18 beads and close the chain by pulling the threads again through the first bead to close the chain. Repeat the step 3 times, for each piece of thread.

Step 4: You can either add a large bead or make a knot and then go back to step 2, but pick up only 30 beads. Repeat steps 3-4 until you reaching the desired length of your tumbalki necklace.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by M. Milev

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Module 3 - Kyustek (Beaded rope)

Kyustek (bead crochet rope) – seed beads on cotton. The cro-cheted spiral is popular through-out Bulgaria and especially in the Rhodopes. The technique is ap-plied to produce necklaces, brace-lets, men’s pocket watch holders and other accessories – alone or in combinations with other crocheted ornaments. The mul-ticolored ropes come in a variety of designs, the diamond shaped (locally called “ochinki” which is a diminutive of “eyes”) being among the most popular ones.






Materials needed:

Tools:

Technique:

Beading tips:

Scissors

about 10 grdistributed in 3 colors of glass seed beads 11/0

Beading needle

beaded crochet

for beginners it is recommended first to practice the crochet without beads. Checking the colour sequence at the beginning of each raw could also help to get better acquainted with how the design is built.

0,55 mm crochet hookcorresponding size cotton crochet or polyester thread

Photo by M. Zvancharova

Step 1: Pick up 1 bead, lead it to the centre of the thread, and add needles to both ends of the thread. Then pick up 2 beads and stitch through them in both directions. Pull tight. Keep on adding beads following the pattern. Repeat until you produce a 2-diamond shape. Repeat this step twice.

Step 2: Bring the 2-diamond shapes together and stitch them by adding blue beads to the edge. You need to thread through the entire row again.

Step 3: Add the fringe – pick up the beads following the pattern and attach the ready loop to the corner of each diamond.

Step 5: Attach the colorful tassels to the rest of the upper loops of the fringe.

Step 4: Before closing the loop of the 4 “legs” of the lizard go back through the red bead of the string and complete the loop following the pattern.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by Zuzana Kratinohová

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Production of Czech glass beads

Czech glass beads haves very long and rich history. In the 3rd -century BC the Celts came to Bohemia. The iron-c-lad Celtic warriors and skilled craftsmen began to produce, in their oppida, the first ancestors of the Czech glass beads: magical colorless, blue, yellow and even multi-colored glass beauties.At the end of the 1st century BC the Celts left and also took the mystery of glassmaking with them. The Middle Ages brought the fame and fortune to the glass beads. In the 13th century the bead production returned to Bohemia, this time for good.In the 16th -century, the Jizera Mountains already belonged to the most important glass-making areas in Bohemia. The area’s natural resources, its proximity to trade routes, and the resourcefulness and entrepreneurship of its in-habitants were the foundation of the growth of Jablonec’s famous glass bead jewelry. During the 18th -century most of the known types of glass beads and seed beads were produced here. Jablonec became the centre of jewelry trade in the 19th -century. The small village of Zásada, where the glassworks were built in the 14th -century, remained the heart and soul, the epicenter of the bead region.The glass rods for bead-making began to be produced in the Jizera Mountains no later than the 1780’s, from precious glass jewelry paste and also standard glass. That changed this craft into an industry.

The process and technology of bead production was developing. As production and market of Czech glass beads grown, seed beads were used for the creation of traditional jewelry part of the national folkwear. A good example of the trade and usage of Czech glass beads is in the area of traditional folkwear in Croatia, Romania, Bulgaria and Hungary in the beginning of the 20th -century.From the 1920’s beads were used to decorate everything: clothing, fashion accessories, lamp shades, and even Christmas decoration.Nowdays, modern production delivers seed beads, two and three-cut beads of an irresistible variety of colors, shapes and design.There are numerous places and ways the Czech beads are used. In Europe, they are primarily used creatively in the hobby sector, while other continents beads are used for interiors decoration, traditional ornaments, clothing and much more. Czech glass beads bring people together, bringing beauty and meaning into our lives and helping us express our in-nermost feelings and moods.

Step 1: Pick up 110 cm of beads following the pattern. This is enough to make a bracelet. Do not cut the thread. The last bead strung will be the first bead worked.

Step 2: Make 12 chains without beads and close the circle

Step 3: Add a bead in every 2nd stitch – 6 beads in total. Close the circle. Push the hook through the loop where the 1st- bead is fastened.

Step 5: Wrap the thread over the top of the hook, catch it and pull it through.

Step 4: Bring the bead down the thread, to the right, close to the loops.

Step 6: Keep on crocheting in a spiral following the pattern of 6 beads in a circle.

Task 4: Beading:

Photo by Atanas Kiryakov

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About Kokula art & craft shop:Kokula is an awarded family enterprise specialized in manufacturing traditional embroidery from Konavle.Traditional embroidery has been made in the family for generations and has always been passed from mother to daughter.In order to preserve and carry on that tradition, the family opened the shop in Dubrovnik in April 2012. The name “Kokula” originates from a special compartment within a traditional Hope Chest, where they kept the most precious heirloom jewelry.They apply pieces of traditional embroidery on different products, like cushions, trays, hand bags, purses, shoes, nap-kins, table clothes; and they even frame them as pictures.They also offer a wide assortment of other products made by local artists and artisans using traditional skills and natural materials.Dubrovnik City Authorities support them through their Program for traditional crafts; Dubrovnik Tourist Board in-cluded the shop in their program «Authentically Croatian», which is only for those who sell products exclusively made in Croatia. The shop won the First prize of the best decorated shop in Dubrovnik Old City.

You can follow the EU activities on a project web site: http://beaded-jewelry.eu/croatia or on the Facebook page Kokula art&craft shop https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kokula-art-craft-shop/121649794638493 or check out re-views about the shop on TripAdvisor.

About traditional beaded jewelry on the market:Due to the participation in the EU funded project “EU Jewelry from Beads – from Traditional Costume to the Market” Kokula Art & Craft Shop offer a large selection of redesigned traditional Croatian beaded jewelry manufactured by Mladenka Sunara, a designer from Split.Kokula’s role in this EU-funded project is to position jewelry on the market by offering it in the shop in Đorđićeva 6, in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and to share the best practice with international partners.A special written and an online survey (accessible on Facebbok and the project website) was created for monitoring the interest of the customers in traditional beaded jewelry. Hundreds of interviews were conducted with customers and 173 pieces of beaded jewelry were sold between May 2014 - June 2015.

Conclusions from survey “Traditional beaded jewelry on the market” (filled by 57 customers) and interviews (con-ducted by Kokula Art & Craft Shop , May 2014 – June 2015):• there is interest in traditional beaded jewelry• customers are interested in the ethnographic background of the jewelry• highly developed countries are the target market• 2 groups of customers are the target market: young girls and women over 40-es• the price range of 20 – 100 euro is reasonable and affordable• customers prefer quality over quantity• black and red are the best selling colors • bracelets are the best selling item

The seven most important elements of launching a handicraft product on the market, and starting an own enterprise (by the experience of Kokula Art & Craft shop based on the seminar by Gabor Kolumban, Odorheiu Secuiesc, Romania):

Give solution to the different levels of the Maslow’s pyramid of needsyou give the solution for the esteem needs in the Maslow’s Pyramid building self esteem and respect from the others selling specific pieces of design jewelry

Traditional beaded jewelry on the market (experience of Kokula Art & Craft Shop)

Redesign of Traditional Beaded Jewelry

Glass beads create an important part of tradition jewelry that is a part of heritage in many European countries.Tradition is the base and key for the use of the present world. Glass beads build a bridge between the traditional bead jewelry and redesign jewelry. The beginning of redesign means the full comprehension of the original design and reconsidering it with our own perspective, way of thinking, expression and implementation.Redesign offers the opportunity to change the design, to revise parts of the original appearance, function and content. Redesign opens the field of beaded jewelry for potential reactions to market demand, fashion trends with strong emphasis on tradition, historical value and heritage.During Beaded Jeuwelry projects participants were inspired by traditional samples of beaded jewelry and they were encouraged to experiment with:

• change the original shape of jewelry• change the size of beads• use fashionable colors (e.g. color of the year)• find new inspiration in modern patterns (e.g. geometrical shapes, simple lines)• combine materials

The redesigned necklaces was made by the teachers and participants of the project. Photo by: Dunja Vukovic

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Bara

nja

colla

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Beading patterns

From product to teaching and cooperation with the customer

Give the customers information about beaded jewelry and its ethnographic background, teach them about tradition, custom, national heritage; they are interested.Use e-marketingE-marketing basically meansThe use of the Internet (have a website and an e-mail-address) and digital media (wireless, mobile, cable, satellite) facilities to help sell your product.It is about creating a strategy that helps your business deliver the right product. It is purpose is to find, attract, win and retain customers.Be personalBe uniqueUse niche marketsNiche marketing is meansProviding a specialized offer to a defined target market.You have a specialized product and according to Kokula’s experience, your target market is young girls and/or well-educated ladies over 40 from developed countries. This group, however, is too broad for a campaign. The trend is toward smaller niches in order to reduce competition. One solution is to find undiscovered but still profitable niches by searching out the best keywords to target. You have to be as specific as you can to make your choice and identify the geographical range and the customers you want to target. For example: young girls from Japan or female Ameri-can university professors, etc. Remember – the artist is a product, too

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EU jewelry from beads - from traditionalcostume to the market / BEADED jEUwelry

Narodno sveučilište Dubrava / Dubrava People’s UniversityCroatia - Zagreb, Cerska 1, www.ns-dubrava.hr

TEMI Fővárosi Művelődési Háza / Capital Cultural CentreHungary - Budapest, Fehérvári út. 47, www.fmhnet.hu

Fundatia Artera / The Artera FoundationRomania - Odorheiu Secuiesc, Cadiseni nr 31www.artera.ro, www.artisaant.ro

Fondatzia za razvitie Chitalishta / Chitalishte Development FoundationBulgaria - Sofia, 11 Slaveykov Sq, www.chitalishte.bg

PROJECT TEAM

Project coordinator: Mirjana Podvorac, Dunja VukovićBeader and course leader: Vinka MarekovićPattern digital design: Ivana Kuzle JakovljevićEthnological background: Lucija Franić Novak, PhD.English translation: Mirjana Podvorac, Dunja Vuković

Project coordinator: Enikő Zánki-TóthBeader and course leader: Mária Decsi-Kiss, Gyöngyi NagyPattern digital design: Gyöngyi NagyEthnological background: Mária Decsi-KissEnglish translation: Enikő Zánki-Tóth

Project coordinator: Melinda LőrinczBeader and course leader: Szidónia Péter, Veronika Csiszér and Izabella GálPattern digital design: Gyöngyi Nagy and Szidónia PéterEthnological background: Katalin Lőrincz and Szidónia PéterEnglish translation: Katalin Lőrincz

Project coordinator: Antoaneta GininaBeader and course leader: Albena Chobanova, Yordanka Ztvetkova, Srgjan KrstevskiPattern digital design: Srgjan KrstevskiEthnological background: Milena Koleva-ZvancharovaEnglish translation: Milena Koleva-Zvancharova

Hodina H.Czech Republic - Pelhrimov, Hrncirska 1, www.hodinah.cz

Project coordinator: Iva MaciaBeaders and course leaders: Zuzana Kratinohová Redesign input: Marketa BravkovaPartners: Secondary Industry School and Vocational Training School Pelhřimov, course „operator in clothing production“English translation: Iva Macia

Director: Matija ZoreProject coordinator: Nana ZoreSales expert: Marija Rilović

Kokula obrt za proizvodnju suvenira/ Kokula art & craft shopĐorđičeva 6. 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia

This Manual is the result of the Leonardo Da Vinci learning partnership, Eropean beaded jewelry - from folkwear to fashion, BEADED jEUwelry, 2013 – 2015. Project No 2013 – 2015. Project No 2013-1-HR1-LEO04-03227 1

Manual Coordinator: Enikő Zánki-Tóth, TEMI Fővárosi Művelődési HázaManual Editor: Gácsi Krisztián, TEMI Fővárosi Művelődési HázaManual English proofreading: Dóra Decsi-Kiss

44 45

This publication has been financed with the support of the European Commission, but itreflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use

which may be made of the information contained therein.Leonardo Learning Partnership, Project No. 2013-1-HR1-LEO04-03227 1

www.beaded-jewelry.eu

click here - beading manual

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