THE FUN ISSUE! > BEACH CRAGGING> HERO ROUTES > VIRGIN ROCK

U N B E L AY VA B L E !SCARY TRUE TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU

HOW TO PLAN, PACK & AFFORD THE

EPIC ROUTES, BUDGET TIPS & GEAR PICKS121

BIGGEST TR IP OF YOUR LIFE

inreachdelorme.com

THERES A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GOING SOLO AND GOING IT ALONE.

The worlds rst satellite communicator with built-in navigation.

inReach Explorer available at all major retailers in May 2014

Navigate and create waypoints

100% global satellite coverage from Iridium

Contract-free and annual plan options

Plan, track, and share your journey

Send and receive text messages

Trigger an interactive SOS

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 1

F L AS H

THE APPROACH Editors Note

Virtual Discussion

OverheardThe all-Honnold edition.

ArchivesA tribute to Lycra.

Unbelayvable!Scary (and true) tales from a crag near you. T H E F LOW

BIG TRIPS ISSUE20 LEAD NOW

32 CHILE

42 SARDINIA

C O N T E N T S I S S U E 3 3 0THE

BIG TRIP ISSUE

6

13

14

15

15

1 8

8 0

Thirty-ve ights to nine countries. More than 68,000 photos and countless hours of video. $20,000 raised for charity. Seven 5.14 sends. Paige Claassen had one of the biggest years of travel in climbing history.

South Patagonias Torres del Paine National Park holds the worlds southern-most rock climbing outside of Antarctica. Its infamous for harsh weather and stout climbing, but Andrew Bascue found plenty of routes for the everyman.

With super-sized helpings of moderate sport climbs, pristine beaches, and the unrivaled Mediterranean sun, you wont suffer one bit on this island para-dise and climber haven. By Dougald MacDonald

If you loveadrenaline sports,

come to Chile.

Puyu

huap

i,Ays

nAn

des

Mou

ntai

n Ra

nge

If not...come to Chile.

www.chile.travel

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 33 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

C O N T E N T S I S S U E 3 3 0

AN

DR

EW

BU

RR

48 UTAH

54 VENEZUELA

62 BULGARIA

68 FRENCH POLYNESIA

THEBIG TRIP

ISSUE

DON T FORGE T

TAILOR YOUR PACKING LIST WITH THIS HARD-WON ADVICE FROM THIS ISSUES INTREPID CONTRIBUTORS

Tennis ball. Massage tired, sore, and cramped muscles with something that takes up almost no space and adds negligible weight. Paige Claassen

Machete. A requirement for any jungle adventure. Mason Earle

Lighweight sleeping bag or bag liner. Even if youre not camp-ing, you might sleep in an airport or a hotel where you dont want to touch the sheets. Paige Claassen

UNU Protective Bat-tery Case. When traveling, there is nothing more frustrating then being left high and dry, lost or confusedand then your cell phone battery dies. Jon Glassberg

Satellite phone. In Torres del Paine its the only way to stay in touch for a weather fore-cast or emergency. Andrew Bascue

French press. Waking up after a night in the jungle and seeing that gigantic press gave me hope for the day. Gary Sorcher [Ed. note: We like GSIs Personal Java Press or the MSR French press adapter for the Reactor stove.]

Garmin Nuvi GPS. Unmarked streets are common everywhere, as are confusing roads and signs, so this literally keeps you on track. Jon Glassberg

Four bold climbers came for new routes, beaches, and fresh sh. They got rain, poison ivy, and moss instead. But they didnt let that put a stop to their tropical climbing adventure. By Mason Earle

When the pursuit of virgin rock led seven climbers to southern Venezuela, they found what they came forrst ascents and a lifetime of untouched bouldersbut they also learned lessons that theyll never forget.

Why Bulgaria? Tucked away in Eastern Europe, this Tennessee-size country has escaped the imagination of the global climbing community. Until today. Heidi Wirtz gives us nine reasons to go there now.

Moab. Just saying the word should give you goosebumps. Teaming up with our friends at mountainproject.com, we bring you this primer on Americas rock climbing epicenter. By J.P. Whitehead

E D I T O R I A LEditor

S H A N N O N D A V I S

Art Director C L A I R E E C K S T R O M

Senior Editor J U L I E E L L I S O N

Digital Media Specialist K E V I N C O R R I G A N

Editor at Large D O U G A L D M A C D O N A L D

Senior Contributing Photographer

A N D R E W B U R R

Senior Contributing Editor J E F F A C H E Y

Contributing Editors B R E N D A N L E O N A R D , D A V E S H E L D O N ,

A N D R E W T O W E R , C E D A R W R I G H T

Contributing Illustrators S K I P S T E R L I N G , S U P E R C O R N

Staff Photographer B E N F U L L E R T O N

Edit Intern J . P. W H I T E H E A D

CLIMBING MAGAZINE5720 Flatiron Parkway

Boulder, CO 80301Phone: (303) 253-6301

Subscriber Services: Within U.S.: (800) 829-5895

Canada and Foreign: (386) 447-6318 Subscriber Service Email: climbing@emailcus-

tomerservice.com

Contributors: Visit climbing.com/contribute

Retailers: To carry CLIMBING magazine and CLIMBING magazine publications in your shop,

contact Bonnie Mason: 1-800-381-1288 x95175.

MOST OF THE ACTIVITIES DEPICTED HEREIN CARRY A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF PERSONAL

INJURY OR DEATH. Rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and all other

outdoor activities are inherently dangerous. The owners, staff, and management of CLIMBING do not recommend that anyone participate in these activities unless they are experts, seek qualied

professional instruction and/or guidance, are knowl-edgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to personally assume all responsibility associated

with those risks.

2014. The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without consent

of the copyright owner. The views herein are those of the writers and do not

necessarily reect the views of CLIMBINGs ownership, staff, or management.

B U S I N E S S Advertising Director S H A R O N H O U G H T O N S H O U G H T O N @ A I M M E D I A . C O M

Midwest Account Manager C H A R L O T T E S I B B I N G C S I B B I N G @ A I M M E D I A . C O M

Eastern Account Director J O A N N M A R T I N J O A N N M A R T I N @ A I M M E D I A . C O M

Eastern Account Manager M AT T H I G G I N S M H I G G I N S @ A I M M E D I A . C O M

Western Account Managers N I C K F R E E D M A N N I C K @ M E D I A H O U N D S I N C . C O M

J O H A N N A W O L F J O H A N N A @ M E D I A H O U N D S I N C . C O M

Detroit Account Manager K E I T H C U N N I N G H A M K E I T H - C U N N I N G H A M @ S B C G L O B A L . N E T

Account Manager S E A N B O N S E R S B O N S E R @ A I M M E D I A . C O M

Marketing Director T I A M AT T S O N Digital Marketing Specialist A M Y L E W I S Advertising Coordinator K E L S E Y M C C A R T H Y Prepress Manager J O Y K E L L E Y Prepress Specialist I D A N I A M E N TA N A Prepress Specialist G A L E N N AT H A N S O N Circulation Director J E N N Y D E S J E A N Circulation Assistant L A R A G R A N T- W A G G L E Director of Retail Sales S U S A N A . R O S E Group Circulation Manager D A R Y L M A R C O Group New Business Manager K AT H L E E N D O N A H U E Web & Partnership Director D E B B I E K A N E

MANAGED BY:ACTIVE INTEREST MEDIAS OUTDOOR GROUPVICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER | K E N T E B E R S O L EGROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR | M AT T H E W B AT E SGROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR | B A R B A R A V A N S I C K L E

Chairman & CEO E F R E M Z I M B A L I S T I I I President & COO A N D R E W W. C L U R M A N Executive Vice President & CFO B R I A N S E L L S T R O M Executive Vice President, Operations PAT R I C I A B . F O X Vice President, Controller J O S E P H C O H E N SVP, Content & Product Development J O N AT H A N D O R N Vice President, Research K R I S T Y K A U S

Copyright 2014 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc.

LEADING SINCE 1970

Order a FREE catalog online at

HILLEBERG.COMor call toll free 1-866-848-8368

follow us on facebook.com/HillebergTheTentmaker

Gar

y K

uehn

, Are

te E

xped

itio

nsw

ww

.are

te.o

rg.n

z

for over 40 years, Hilleberg has been making the high-est quality tents available. Conceived and developed in

northern Sweden, Hilleberg tents offer the ideal balance

of low weight, strength, and comfort. Order our cat alog

for more information!

keron gtVery strong, roomy and versatile all-season tent in our black label line. Perfect for year round, gear-intensive adventures in any situation. Available in 3 & 4 person versions. Seen here in Alaska.

WHEN SELECTING A TENT

CHOOSE WISELY

5.10

Athlete Driven

s

most dangerous hike

B R A N D O F T H E B R A V E

F L A S H

In Northern Californias Humboldt County, isolated outcroppings of rock dot the regions 50 miles of coastline. At 100 miles south of the Oregon state line, the area is more reminiscent of the Paci c Northwests foggy, craggy shores than the sunny beaches one might picture when thinking of the California coast. Matching the shrouded environment, the climbing itself is a bit mysterious. There are few names, grades, or guidebooks for most of the northern coast, and one must be willing to explore without any sort of tick list or agenda. While some rudimentary documentation exists online, much of the allure lies in the ambiguous nature of boulder-ing here. Moonstone Beach is perhaps the most well-known sector, warranting a solid entry on Mountain Project and a few

pages in Northern California Bouldering, by Chris Summit, but youll still need to befriend a resident to nd the goods. Local and photographer Dean Fleming says, To climb here, you must have an intimate relationship with the areas coastline. Rising and falling sand levels can drastically change the problems, and cer-tain climbs are only accessible with speci c tides and swells. Within an hours drive of this particular block, one can nd polished schist and quartzite crimpfests at Goat Rock State Park, as well as limestone and sandstone pocket-pulling at Salt Point. Dont forget to stay alert and vigilant: Locals have seen many a black bear and mountain lion in the region, making this a true adventure climbers destination.

Andrea BattUnnammedMoonstone Beach, Humboldt County, California

DEAN FLEMING

F L A S H

Gil TenneCochise (6b/5.10c) Valle dellOrco, Italy

Some have described Italys sprawling trad climbing mecca Valle dellOrco as little Yosem-ite (the area even has its own El Capitan and Sentinel with Caporal and Sergentcorporal and sergeant, respectively), but this moniker downplays the grandeur of the area. Situated in Gran Paradiso National Park in Northern Italy, bordering France to the west, the valley hosts more than a hundred routes spread across numerous granite crags. Lines here climb through blocky edges, zigzagging hand cracks, and sharp quartz crystal deposits. Although the rock and style may resemble its California counterpart, the scene is en-tirely unique. Winding roads take visitors past ancient villages of lichen-covered masonry houses nestled under the impressive granite cliffs that make up the walls of the valley. Some unknowing visitors might be dis-suaded by the No Trespassing signs on the roadside, but locals will encourage you to just ignore them. Very unlike its American cousin, you wont nd crowds in this valley, only quiet solitude. While its famous for gear-pro-tected multi-pitch routes, smaller crags have recently experienced a surge of development thanks to new enthusiasm in the local climbing community. Pictured here, the Dado wall is one of these renaissance cliffs. Cochise is a welcome addition, with wan-dering crack climbing and a bit of dicey face climbing in a neat two-pitch package.

ANDREW BURR

F L A S H

John PriceCentral Pillar (WI4+)Johnston Canyon, Alberta, Canada

Cryophilia is de ned as an unnatural affi nity for the cold. It describes those who thrive in subzero temps and derive pleasure from numb extremities and chattering teeth. (Many ice climbers might be described as suffering from this affl iction.) Cryophilia is also the name and inspiration for alpine photogra-pher Paul Zizkas series of night ice climbing photographs shot in the Canadian Rockies. Zizka began shooting these unique perspectives last winter in order to bridge his two passions: alpine experiences and astrophotogra-phy. I have always liked shots that convey a sense of vulner-ability, he says. Adding the night element takes that even further. With Canadian climber John Price and a few other friends, Zizka spent months chasing clear skies and the aurora borealis at three different ice formations in Banff and Koo-tenay national parks, just west of Calgary on the border of British Columbia. Due to the large amount of precipitation this area receives each winter and the below-zero temps, the Canadian Rockies offer extensive ice and mixed routes of exceptional qual-ity. Trip opportunities range from the easily accessible waterfalls within the town of Banff to more remote challenges higher up in the parks. Its no surprise that this photographic process proved diffi cult at times, and long exposures were necessary. Zizka says, Retaining sharpness in the climber was diffi cult, since John had to hold completely still on that very wet and very cold route for long periods of time.

PAUL ZIZKA

You only get 26,320 days, more or less. How will you spend them?

scarpa.com/phantom-guide

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 13

T H E A P P R O A C H

E D I T O R S N O T E

RE: Out of Of ceBY SHANNON DAVIS

The work/play balance has been way out of whack at the Climbing offi ce in the past monthin a very good way. Weve climbed in Wyomings Tetons and Wind River Range,

Arizonas Mount Lemmon, and Utahs Moab area. Weve also summited a couple iconic European peaks: the 9,718-foot Zugspitze (Germanys highest point) and Switzerlands 14,692-foot Matterhorn.

Its a minor miracle we got this issue out the door. But, as I told my boss while grinning ear to ear, our absenteeism was actually tting prep-aration for this issueone stuff ed with once-in-a-lifetime trips to some of the worlds most fun, interesting, and far- ung climbing destinations.

Big-ticket travel isnt easy, but payoff s return in unquanti able ways. On the summit of the Matterhorn after a particularly cold, windy, and fast ascent, I looked up to see my own shadow inside a circular rainbow (see above). I later learned that to Buddhists this rare alpine phenom-enon, called Brocken spectre or simply glory, signi es the observers personal enlightenment. Im not Buddhist, but Ill take that any day. High- ving my partner inside this optical illusion on top of one of the worlds greatest summits is something Ill never forget.

I cant promise glory, but I can promise that creating lifelong climbing memories on a big trip is entirely possible. Schedule an automatic $40 deposit per paycheck into a new account. By this time next year, youll have a grand for a plane ticket. Solicit a partner and tell everyone about your plans so youre accountable. Then take it one tiny step at a time.

C O N T R I B U T O R S

A N D R E W B AS C U EThis New Jerseyite cut his teeth climbing at the Gunks, worked and climbed his way around the U.S., and then lived for four years in Chile. Hes now based in Boulder, Colorado, for what looks like the long haul, and hes working on the rst-ever guidebook for Torres del Paine, Chile. Climbing has taken me everywhere I was supposed to go in life, whether I planned it or not! Check out a sneak peek of his guidebook on page 32.

PA I G E C L A ASS E NClaassen has an impressive tick list, including Grand Ol Opry (5.14b/c), which she completed while earning her marketing degree at the University of Colo-rado, the rst ascent of Digital Warfare (5.14a) in South Africa, and most recently Just Do It, Americas rst 5.14c. Perhaps even more impressive is how she spent her past yearon a worldwide climbing trip raising $20,000 for nonpro ts. She de-tails the highlights on page 20.

HIGH

LIGH

TS

FROM

THE

JO

URNE

Y

Finding bargainsTravelling aint cheap, so we asked

our correspondents to high-light ways to live frugally aft er you pony up for that plane ticket. Look for this symbol throughout for budget advice.

Exploring local cuisineFood and drink might be the second (or rst?) thing on a climbers mind at all times. In this issue, our contributors noshed boere-wors (a sausage), plate-size mushrooms, vodka, borscht, sh pie, sashimi, cabbage, mate, steamed buns, mango, grilled lamb, goat ribs, red wine, and more. Yum!

Reliving Washer WomanIn Search of Suds (p. 48) is such a cool route!

JammingI cringe when I hear about my inner child or why we climb, but the trio of climbers covering untapped Venezuelan boulders in Into the Devils House (p. 54), eclipsed clich in their descriptions of getting in sync with the rock, the environment, and each other. Also known as jamming.

M AS O N E A R L EBorn in Concord, Massachu-setts, Earle started climbing at the age of 10, barefoot, with a sling tied around his waist. I moved West as soon as I was legally able to do so, he says, choosing Salt Lake City as a home base and now, as a pro-fessional climber, using much better equipment. He travels incessantly in search of rst as-cents. Read his dispatch from French Polynesia on page 68.

CLO

CK

WIS

E F

RO

M T

OP

LE

FT

: SH

AN

NO

N D

AV

IS; C

OU

RT

ES

Y (

2);

AN

DR

EW

BU

RR

(2

)

Glory on the summit of the Matterhorn

OTHER Thailand, Alaska, Chile, Wind River Range, Vietnam, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Peak District, Smith Rock, Acadia, Red Rock, Leavenworth, Tetons, Tahoe, Moab, Rockies, Joshua Tree, New River Gorge, Peru, Eldorado Canyon, Alps, Lander, Gunks, Squamish, etc.

14 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

T H E A P P R O A C H

Have fun and stay injury-free

Break into the next grade level

Acquire or rene skills (example: start leading trad)

Climb a major big wall or alpine route

Send my project

Other

OtherYosemite

Red River GorgePatagonia

MallorcaHimalaya

DolomitesFontainebleau

KalymnosEl Potrero Chico

GrampiansSouth AfricaHueco Tanks

80

120

10080604020

604020

Whats your climbing goal this year?

Whats your top climbing destination worldwide?

35 *Source: Climbing reader survey. Join at climbing.com/readerpanel.

O B V I O U S L I N E S

COMMENTS Is this supposed to be funny and farcical? Is it supposed to advise and educate? Climbing advice is not an appropriate subject to mix these things. These questions deserve real, forthright answers, and the authors humor is not very funny in my opinion.Crater - 09/10/2014 3:08:29

I thought it was funny! Maybe because I think dry ropes and gear marking are as obvious as the author? I dont think mixing advice and humor is a bad idea. Its not like hes prompting some poor soul who doesnt understand sarcasm to get himself killed by saying, Screw the dry rope. Go with bungee cords and dental oss.Kristin - 09/10/2014 3:38:42

Its a great format; I learned a couple things, and then I had a couple laughs. Its a simple matter of taste I suppose, but I give it a thumbs-up.Emily - 09/10/2014 4:22:04

I fully agree with Crater. In addition to hunched backs, climbers suffer from an inability to discern between sarcasm and a spring-loaded camming device. Dont confuse us with your highfalutin word-wrangling. We want straight talk, ya hear?Jaren Watson - 09/10/2014 4:48:06

I brought my sense of humor and enjoyed the article. I learned something about why I should keep buying dry-treated ropes and how to deal with tiny crashpads (kids) in the gym. Love it. Please keep the good stuff coming.Rick - 09/10/2014 4:52:43

I cant tell if hes trying (and failing) to be funny, or really is just an asshole.Alex Brady 09/10/2014 5:43

I liked this article, and I found that it did answer the questions asked. For the complainers, if you cant read through the sarcasm and you get your panties in a bunch because of it, I do believe you may need to seek medical assistance to forcefully remove your head from your own ass.Dave - 09/10/2014 6:01:19

@climbingmag @climbingmagazineletters@climbing.com /climbingmagazine

Since his rst article, our advice columnist, Answer Man, has stirred up controversy. Some think he provides fun, snarky answers to common climber questions. Others just think hes a jerk. Heres a sampling of opinions from both sides. Browse the Answer Man archives and weigh in yourself at climbing.com/answermanarchives.

V I R T U A L D I S C U S S I O N

K E E P I N T O U C H

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 15

O V E R H E A R D

Special All-Honnold Edition! On August 19, Alex Honnold stopped by the Boulder Theater in Boulder, Colorado, for a live Q&A. For those of you that missed it, weve highlighted his best quips here. To watch the full event, visit climbing.com/relativityofrisk.

In the beginning, I over-emphasized the reward. I thought, If I do this, Im going to get laid. And I still havent.

Honnold, on the thankless endeavor of free-soloing.

Every once in a while, I will watch a bunch of movies and eat a bunch of cookies.Honnold, on losing motivation.

Basically, no. I mean, Im from suburban California. I dont do cold.Honnold, dismissing any potential of

moving on to alpinism or big Himalayan exepeditions.

Its not that shocking, but it turns out that lawyers and free-soloing dont mix. Whoda thunk?

Honnolds answer to those wondering what happened with his

planned climb of the Taipei 101 skyscraper in Taiwan.

You must know what youre doing!Honnolds mom, after seeing him on TV and the covers of magazines.

A R C H I V E S

COVER PHOTOJim Waugh ghts through the roof of Maadim (5.11b) in his yellow, gridded power leggings.

This ad for One Sport climbing shoes demon-strates the pure exibil-ity of these second-skin pants.

Corrine LaBrune climbs in full 80s style, complete with oversized sweater, on Latest Rage (5.12b).

Ray Ringle looks surpris-ingly badass in bottoms that resemble a coloring book on Heat Wave (5.12).

Jean-Baptiste Tribout complements climber tights (patterned with biners, nuts, and chalkbags) with a pink-checkered harness.

Brad Smith on Golden Beaver Right (5.12c) in tights that were once a tablecloth from a maa-run Italian restaurant.

Paul Van Betten looks undeniably rad on Desert Reality (5.11c) in this ad for Rad Designs tights, available in seven pat-terns.

A Tribute to LycraClimbers of today can be a fashion-forward bunch, with button-down plaid shirts and tight jeans present at crags across the country. It wasnt always this way. In the late 1980s, Lycra tights took our sport by storm. Climbers appreciated the stretchy material for the unrestricted movement it provided, and they loved the loud, colorful patterns because, well, it was the 80s. The trend was at its peak when we released our April 1987 issue, in which nearly every climber pictured dons these performance leggings. Heres a small sampling.

16 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

How did this idea come about?Brian: On our second or third date, we went backcountry skiing with a friend of ours and came up with this idea that it would be fun to bike from Lander to climb something in the Wind River Range. We thought the idea of a human-powered ascent was really cool, but we always came up with an excuse not to do it. Then we went to a friends wedding and thought, We like some aspects of weddings, and others we dont. We should just totally do it our wayby nally doing that human-powered Pingora ascent wed dreamed about. It was this cool metaphor with a long adventure that tested us mentally and physically to romp to the top of a peak in the mountains that are near and dear to us. And we invited our friend who had the original idea with us, Jamie ODonnell, to ofciate.

So were you already engaged when you decided to do this?Brian: No. We didnt do that the traditional way either.

What kind of planning went into it?Mandy: Step one: Our friend Jamie got ordained on the Internet. Step two: Logistics. We had a four-day window at the end of August where we were waiting to see about the weather. We went on three training days in the Winds. We needed to do a lot of hiking to get in shape to walk that far. We previewed the route two weekends prior so wed be able to climb it in the dark or if it was wet. We called that our pre-marital counseling. Then the week of, we watched the weather and dialed in our nal itinerary, adding videographer and photographer friends to record the ceremony.

Did you dress up for the ceremony?Mandy: I didnt want people to see the photos and think that we happened to climb Pingora and then said, Oh! Maybe we should get married! So I had a wedding dress that I had gotten the week before at a thrift store for $8.

So tell us about the big day(s).Mandy: We left the house on bicycles at 6:00 a.m. with all of our gear. It was about 10 miles up Sinks Canyon, with a couple thousand feet of elevation gain. It took us about an hour and a half. Then we stashed our bikes in the trees and started walking at 8:30 a.m. We were hiking for 25 miles, and we would be doing it again the next day, so we kept a nice leisurely pace. It was a just keep hiking sort of day. We arrived at the base of Pingora at 7:00 p.m., ate food, and got to bed around 8:00. We got up at 3:00 a.m. to do the approach and start the climb. One, we had

another long day ahead of us. Two, we wanted to beat the thunderstorms. And three, we didnt want to end up behind other parties. We actually had the whole climb to ourselves the whole day, which was really lovely. We got to the top smoothly. The only hiccup was that I dropped a No. 3 Camalot, which was a bummer, but we decided we can just ask for one in our wedding registry. Yes, we have a registry. Were not totally nuts.

What was the ceremony like?Mandy: We exchanged rings, and we said vows. Brian was actually still writing his vows on the climb up. And Jamie did a great job ofciating.

Brian: I was like, Gosh, I didnt know we were doing vows!

Mandy: So we had the ceremony, and then drank some champagne. Not very much because none of us had eaten enough to consume alcohol. And then we descended. Three raps and then walk off the rest of the way. We got back to camp about 2:00 p.m., sat and ate food, drank more champagne, and geared up for our respective hikes. Our plan was to hike until we got tired, or until dark, and then camp another night and nish in the morning. So we set off.

Brian: I was very tired at that point. I wouldve been ne if we just had the party and then retired for the evening and had a nice morning of sleeping in with fresh coffee.

Mandy: But then it would have rained on us. And we did not take a stove, so we couldnt have actually had coffee. We ended up powering through and made it home, getting into bed at exactly 3:00 a.m. We really made the most of our wedding day24 hours. Then we slept. We planned to sleep for a long time, but we both woke up ravenous a few hours later.

Were your families disappointed they couldnt be there?Brian: They would say, Oh, wish we could have been there, but I dont want to do that trip.

Are you going to have any kind of get-together for everyone else, or was that it?Mandy: Were gonna do a big party next summer on the Fourth of July in Lander. Everyones invited; you can put it in the article! Since no one was invited to our rst wedding, were going for the other extreme and saying that everyones invited to our party.

T H E A P P R O A C H

A Wedding ChallengeBY KEVIN CORRIGAN

WELL, THIS IS ADORABLE. Brian and Mandy Fabel threw out the usual wed-ding-day worries (food, owers, DJ) and replaced them with a long hike and hand jams by giving themselves a challenge. The approach to their sacred union would involve leaving their home in Lander, Wyoming, climbing the Northeast Face (5.8+) of Pingora in the neighboring Wind River Range, having a small ceremony on the summit, and then returning home. All under their own power. Thats a 10-mile bike ride. A 25-mile hike. Nine pitches of climb-ing. And then the whole thing again in reverse. Perhaps they missed out on seeing some distant relative drink too much and perform the chicken dance with gusto, but we suspect their memories more than make up for it.

O F F T H E W A L L

SA

M L

IGH

TN

ER

JR

.

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 17

Adventure Travel Gear5 must-have products tested on 6 continentsBY JULIE ELLISON

T E S T E D

POWER UP ANYWHERE

Goal Zero Sherpa 50 Solar Kit

Not many people can say this, but I literally put my life in the hands of this solar setup, Jeremy Thomley said, after using the Sherpa 50 to power his nebulizer for daily breathing treatments in the backcountry. (Turn to p. 54 for the rest of Jeremys story.) From country-hopping in South America to charging camera batteries and iPhones in the Venezuelan jungle every day for three weeks, the Sherpa 50 was an excellent solution for portable power in a lightweight and compact package. The one thing every country has in common is the sun, another tester said, to know you can have power anywhere you visit is reassuring, whether youre headed to the backcountry or not. The kit, which includes the Sherpa 50 battery pack and the midsize Nomad 13 solar panels, weighs in at just under three pounds, charges in full sun in about eight hours (or from the wall in three), and houses enough power to charge a full-size laptop once or a smartphone seven times. $360; goalzero.com

LIGHTWEIGHT, COMPACT PHONE LENSES

Olloclip 4-in-1 Lenses

The best camera for traveling climbers is already in your pocket, and with these tiny lenses, your phone just got even better. This lens kit is simple: You get one adapter that slides onto your phone, and four lenses that quickly screw on to the adapter. Transitioning between lenses is seamless, and the adapter goes off and on easilywithout any permanent attachment pieces or adhesive. The included lenses are sheye, wide angle, and two macros10x and 15x. This setup almost makes me feel silly for having a big ol expensive DSLR, one tester said. The quality of the images rivals really nice point-and-shoots, and its less than a fraction of the weight, so for travel, I carry this all the time and leave the DSLR behind. Available for iPhone, iPad, and Samsung Galaxy. $70; olloclip.com

QUIVER-OF-ONE SHOE

Five Ten Guide Tennie Canvas

A solid pair of approach shoes is essential, Dougald MacDonald said of his weeks in Sardinia, Nepal, and the backcountry of Wyoming. Something comfortable enough to walk in all day on city streets but can perform on approaches and scrambles when you go off trail, meaning sticky rubber and enough support to protect your feet and ankles in talus. Plus, they should be light enough that you can carry them up a multi-pitch. The Guide Tennie has long been a testers favorite for technical approaches and easier alpine climbs, and the canvas version is more breathable for summer and shoulder seasons. From town to trail to talus, these kicks are my go-to quiver of one for traveling, another

tester said. $120; veten.com

WEAR-EVERYWHERE BOTTOMS

Icebreaker Escape Pant

Versatility is the name of the game when packing for international travel. Wool is ideal because its breathable, soft next to skin, dries quickly, and has excellent anti-stink properties. These pants up the ante with a touch of Lycra that gives them enough stretch for climbing. Twelve hours on planes and in airports followed by a quick bouldering session to shake off the jet-lag, which then turned into an evening out having dinner and drinks late into the nightEuro-style,

one tester said. These pants were perfect

for all of it! Two weeks and zero washes later, the pants were still in prime shape when the tester wore them on the way home,

too. Not to mention they feel

more comfortable than my coziest yoga pants and look almost as good as my nice slacks. Mens is the Escape; womens is the

Swift. $100 (womens), $150 (mens); icebreaker.com

CAVERNOUS, CONVENIENT HAULER

Marmot Long Hauler Dufe (Large)

Every traveling climber needs at least one indestructible duffel that can hold all your climbing and camping gear and withstand dragging and dropping and the occasional ride on a mule or a yak. With mega-haulers, we also like wheels to get us through the airport chaos quicker. Enter the Long Hauler, which wasnt scathed by a round-the-world trip: 35 ights through nine countries. I watched baggage handlers from across the globe throw this thing around and beat the hell out of it over the course of a year, one tester said, and its ready for round two! Thats thanks to the 1680-denier ballistic nylon and 1000-denier TPE laminate outer material, as well as sturdy stitching and construction. It will hold everything you need for a month or more of travel: It seems like a never-ending chasm that will always t one more jacket or pair of climbing shoes. $139; marmot.com

T H E A P P R O A C H

I saw a climber lose his nerve on a trad route and bail. Which is ne. But he swung over to a nearby sport route, clipped a bolt, and proceed-ed as follows: Swing to the original route, clean gear, swing back, lower to the next bolt, clip it, yard back up to the current bolt, clean the draw, fall on the lower bolt, and repeat.

Submitted by Albert Kim, via email

LESSON: Falls like this wear on your rope and gear, and expose you to unnec-essary risk. And if the rope runs sideways to your pro, it could create a dangerous angle. The easiest way to bail from a trad route is by building an anchor out of nuts (the cheapest to leave) and bail biners (one locker, two opposite and opposite non-lockers, or one non-locker with the gate taped shut) then clean gear as you descend or retrieve it later on rappel if

you can access the top. Another option is to aid past the crux and nish the climb. Check out climbing.com/aid101 for tips.

I saw a couple bail on a multi-pitch. Instead of rappelling normally one by one down both strands of the ropethey set up a curious simul-rap. He descended one strand while she braced her-self at the top as a meat anchor, holding the brake line tight to keep the rope in place. He made it down, and then she descended her strand while he meat-an-chored her from the ground.

Submitted by Hailey Hosken, via email

LESSON: Simul-rapping is an advanced skill with a low margin of error. Simple mistakes can be catastrophic. The safest

and simplest way to rappel is to center the rope in the anchor at the midpoint, then perform a basic, extended rappel with a friction-hitch backup. See a video tutorial at climbing.com/extendrappel.

I saw a climber lowering and cleaning a sport route that started under a long roof. He was clipped to the belayers side of the rope to stay close to the wall. When he un-clipped the nal draw, it suddenly introduced slack into the system, sending him into a wild swing. He was still clipped to the belayers side of the rope, and it whipped his belayer 40 feet across the ground. The belayer earned a nice gash in his head when he hit a rock. They had to go to the hospital.Submitted by Johnathan Sliski,

via email

LESSON: Clipping the belayers side of the rope while lowering helps you stay close to the wall, but unclipping the last draw (especially under a roof) adds slack and a big swing is hard to avoid. Its es-sential to go into the bolt directly, unclip the belay side, and have the belayer take in slack before cleaning the last draw. This will keep your belayer stationary, but make sure your line of swing is clear and that youre high enough that you wont deck. Have your belayer keep you tight, take the swing, and nish lowering. If the swing isnt safe, you can nish lowering with the rst bolt clipped and then retrieve it after, but rst make sure there is plenty of rope to allow you to reach the ground, and do NOT unclip from the belay-side rope until youre on the ground.

See something unbelayvable? Email unbelayvable@climbing.com.

Scary (and true) tales from a crag near youU N B E L AY V A B L E !

PROMOTION

THE BETA

STERLING ROPEOur new Nano IX (nine) is designed to perform awlessly on sport routes, ice, or mixed conditions, this 9.0mm triple threat is certied as a single, half, and twin rope. Its thermobalanced sheath and new core ensure durable, consistent handling in all conditions.

www.sterlingrope.com

REEL ROCK In its 9th year, REEL ROCK features a special presentation of Valley Uprising: the riveting, unforgettable tale of Yosemite climbing, spanning half a century of struggle against the laws of gravity and the laws of the land.

www.reelrocktour.com

Follow us on Facebook for your daily dose of the Climbing life: News, Skills,

Funny Stuff, and Inspiration.

facebook.com/climbingmagazine

411 from our climbing partners

Photography: John Glassberg I Athlete: Paige Claassen I Location: Ultimate Power, 5.12d Waterval Boven, South Africa I marmot.com

The Womens Essential Tank Check out the Marmot Momentum Collection at marmot.com/momentum

20 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

CO

UR

TE

SY

D o you think you could climb one 5.14 a month for a whole year? lm-maker Jon Glassberg asked me two years ago as we sat around a classic summer camp re after a great day of climbing. I had graduated from col-lege a few months earlier with no concrete plansother than more climbing and more camp resand a vague idea of starting the mar-keting career college had groomed me for. My answer to Jons ques-tion was simpleuh, hell yes! but the very thought sparked a larger idea that would eventually take me around the world, off ering me the chance to work and play in some of the worlds most beautiful settings.

We decided we would tackle a diff erent climbing objective each month (most commonly a 5.14 sport route), with the caveat that each route needed to be in a diff erent country. We aimed for smaller crags, obscure objectives, and countries that dont necessarily top the list of must-visit climbing destinations. I would spend my time tackling climbs at my limit, and Jon would document the whole experience. We saw it as an opportunity to challenge ourselves not only physically through hard climbing, but also mentally and emotionally through dif- cult and sometimes unknown travel.

But I wanted to do more than just climb. Our itinerary included im-poverished areas of the world, where children dont have the opportuni-ties that I was blessed with growing up. We decided that we would also produce video marketing content to promote and support local non-pro t organizations in each country we visited, helping these groups reach a larger audience and raise money in the process. We could tell a story of travel, culture, and nonpro t work in addition to the traditional hard-send media. And thanks to the help of Marmot, our title sponsor, we pulled it off ! The Lead Now Tour involved 35 ights to nine coun-tries, shooting more than 68,000 photos, raising more than $20,000 for charities, seven 5.14 sendsand only ve bouts of food poisoning. These are the highlightsand some hard-won advice.

By Paige ClaassenPhotos by Jon Glassberg

Going GlobalApply the passion and dedication it takes to climb 5.14 to doing good around the world, and you get one of the climbing worlds greatest years of travelever. Here is the story of Marmots Lead Now Tour.

Paige Claassen makes the rst female as-cent of Indias hardest sport route Ganesh (5.14a), Badami.

THEBIG TRIP

ISSUE

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 21

CO

UR

TE

SY

22 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

Free State, Wow Prow puts everything I have ever known about climb-ing aesthetics to shame. Heres your projie, Andrew says, pointing to the line he bolted a few months ago. This delicately painted canvas of seemingly featureless orange and gray patterns is the reason Im here.

Digital Warfare (5.14a) is just thata ngertip battle. I climb it twice a day, every other day, before my tips eventually split from crimping the lips of sharp pockets, which are blocked by pebbles lodged inside. We take misery burns on the 5.12d warm-up before redpoint attempts as Pedley and his army of strong, young locals set to work bolting new lines. The number of available routes at Wow Prow triples over the course of 10 days. These guys are relentless, and when we return home each evening, they devour an absurd amount of meat (usually boerewors, a type of sausage with beef, lamb, and pork) in true South African style.

Just as our time at Wow Prow is coming to a close and my skin is opening beyond repair, the battle ends: After seven days of eff ort, I nally snag the two dynamic, nger-biting pocket cruxes of Digital Warfare, before the frigid winter winds move in over the Free State. Clipping the chains on this virgin stone sparks my interest to bolt a line of my own. Pedley off ers up one of his gems, but I later learn it is just one prize in his quiver. Ive never met someone with such a keen eye for stunning lines, and I hope to return next year and study as his bolting apprentice. During our month in the country, I was also able to claim the rst female ascent of the powerful and long (115 feet!) Rodan (5.14a), also put up by Pedley at Waterval Boven.

BetaGET THERE Drive 3.5 hours south of Johannesburg to the small settlement of Clo-colan. STAY Camp at the Ben Nevis Cherry Farm (ben-nevis.co.za). Daily expenses are cheap after breaking the bank on plane tickets. SEASON Find ideal conditions in September/October and April/May. MORE For topos and more travel informa-tion, visit climbing.co.za/2013/07/wow-prow-topo.

SOUTH AFRICAIt could be the worlds best rock climb!

This message about a newly bolted, un-climbed project on a remote buttress far from everything was the latest addition to my inbox from South African developer Andrew Pedley. So we made Africa stop number one. After 40 hours of travel from the U.S. and ve hours of droopy-eyed driving on the opposite side of the road, were swapping drivers every 10 minutes. We cant stay awake. When we arrive at the home of local developer Roger Nattrass, were ready to crash. I dont even want food, which is saying something, but fate (and Rog-er) demands we experience a safari. Like now. A short Jeep ride into the backyard, and were face to face with the giraff es that will watch us muscle up the sandstone walls of Umgeni over the coming days.

We arrive late on our rst day at the crag. A herd of zebras had blocked the rough dirt road leading to Wow Prow. Imagine a perfect wall of rockdream holds, a perfect angle and style awless. African sandstone reigns supreme. Set in the boundless plains of South Africas

TIP SHEE TGeneral Check the baggage al-lowance for each flight ahead of time, and then understand that what you encounter at the air-port may be different from the rules listed on-line. We had to leave a large duffel full of climb-ing ropes, brand-new shoes, clothes, etc., be-cause Qatar Airways wouldnt let us check the bag for less than $1,700.

Airport security in each country (and even at different airports within a country) varies greatly. Avoid trying to carry on ropes, quick-draws, and chalk, which will often be confis-cated. Also avoid carry-ing on mace, particularly in China. I forgot I had it in my bag and was ques-tioned for an hour in the back room about how I got through five coun-tries with it.

If your cell phone con-tract is nearly up, con-sider unlocking your smartphone and pur-chasing local SIM cards in each country. We found this was much cheaper than purchasing an international plan with our home carriers.

If youre planning an around-the-world trip, look into AirTreks for flights (airtreks.com), a travel agency that will help you plan complex multi-stop international itineraries, without the restrictions of a typical around the world ticket. AirTreks requires that you make at least three stops internation-ally in at least two coun-tries, not including your start and end cities, but it has no limitations on direction of travel or du-ration of each stop. Pretty much, AirTreks was the make-it-or-

Waterval Boven, South Africa, offers hundreds of diverse sandstone routes, including this 5.12d Unlimited Power.

BIG TRIP ISSUE

Classen assists the next generation of crushers in South Africa

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 23

TIP SHEE Tbreak-it of our budget on Marmots Lead Now Tour, allowing us to pur-chase a total of 35 flights to 10 countries all around the world for $8,000 per person.

SOUTH AFRICA Dont turn down an in-vite to a braai, the South African version of a bar-beque, but much more involved. A multi-hour event means friends are guzzling wine while many, many types of meat cook over an open fire. Delicious, and youre sure to take part in fabu-lously entertaining con-versations and learn about the best lines in the area.

If youre already visit-ing the world-renowned bouldering area of Rock-lands, toss your sport gear into your suitcase and make a stop at Wa-terval Boven on the eastern side of the country: easy access, routes of all grades, stunning scenery, and baboons.

RUSSIA Consider a visit to Tri-angular Lake during the white nights of June and July when the sun never sets, and you can

RUSSIABikini! Bikini! Bikini!

Its midnight on Friday, and a dozen children run around screaming this phrase. Empty bottles of vodka line the table, but the party seems to be just starting. After a long period of confusion, we reluctantly put on our bathing suits, and a gaggle of giggling Russians leads us outside into a wooden hut. Zan, our new Russian father, pours boiling water over hot rocks and dried birch branches, creating a suff ocating air so thick and hot that I cant breath. Without warning, he slaps scalding-hot birch branches on my back. Ten minutes of whipping later, Im feeling dizzy and raw. Before I can get my bearings, a bucket of icy rainwater is upon me. I stagger outside to hysterical laughter. Wel-come to Russia, enjoy your relaxing experience in the banya!

Just that morning, our rental car bum-bled down a rough dirt road, deep in one of the Svetogorsk forests. Despite Russias grandeur, climbable rock is scarce, and climbers from Moscow frequently make the 12+ hour trek to Triangular Lake, just for the weekend. A few local climbers we met just a few hours ago have arranged for us to stay in the only structure within miles of the areathe home of a local family. All we know is they speak no English, theres no electricity or running water, and theyve offered to house us for three weeks. Amaz-ing! As we pull up to the oversized cabin, a f lood of 20 people rush from all doors and balconies, welcoming us with big grins and bear hugs. Through mostly hand gestures, we learn that Zan, Olga, and Babushka (grandmother) live a quiet life during the week, tending to the garden, collecting berries and mushrooms in the forest, and tinkering with the house. On the weekends, friends from the city drive in with new stocks of food and vodka for two glorious days of debauchery.

Each climbing day begins with pickles for breakfast and a heaping plate of fried pota-toes. We dont leave the picnic table until Ba-bushka is satis ed that weve eaten enough. She thinks my arms are too skinny and my cheeks need to ll out. I, on the other hand, am struggling more and more every day to get off the ground. Fried noodles, cabbage-topped sh pie, borscht with mayonnaise, buttery Karelia pies, and always more fried potatoes await us at each meal.

We call Triangular Lake the land of V9 because it seems to be the entry-level grade among the small community of climbers who make the long drive here. Among the vast granite playground hidden deep in the pine forest, you wont nd many developed prob-lems harder than V9, but you also wont nd much to warm up on. Plenty of boulders await discovery, just be prepared to dig through the forest, as the moss, mushrooms, and pines cover everything.

BetaGET THERE The only way for foreigners to reach Triangular Lake is with help from locals; youll need detailed driving beta for the complex dirt roads, plus a permit to get past security check-points near the border. I used Facebook to find lo-cals and ask about everything. I suggest the community Facebook page Bouldermania Liet-Lahti. Its the gateway for proactive climbers and travelers to access this crazy, remote area. MORE The Russian climbing crew has recently developed an app for Triangular Lake climbing. Its free in the iTunes store (search for Triangular Lake), but its all in Russian.

A local Russian climber, who goes by the nickname Emilio

Del Toro, climbs the granite masterpiece Parquet (V5)

at Triangular Lake.

24 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

CO

UR

TE

SY

ITALYIts usually not like this.

Fog. Mist. Humidity. Still air. Day after day the gray skies of the Italian Alps dampen our spirits. Im in Italy visiting the CAMP head-quarters and working on a new ultra-light womens harness with the design team. My climbing objective for the month is up in the air because of the weather, until I stumble across Art Attack (5.14b), and the blank-look-ing slab sucks me in. We see it from the car as we drive on the country road to Val di Mel-lo, a green and granite valley with big walls and boulders alike. Since Simone Pedeferri opened the 5.14b line in 2004, it hasnt seen a repeat. We begin scraping lichen off the for-gotten face.

Climbing wet granite isnt friendly on the skin or con dence. Projecting a 5.14b slab in the mist is even worse. The already-non-existent feet feel like slick clay, and my moist skin wont stick to the rock. I dont believe in myself or a change in the weather. But I keep trying, because at the end of the month I dont want to have any excuses.

I tie in and make my way up the slab. Through the 5.12d section, into the smears, moving toward the crux. After about 40 at-tempts, I still havent climbed into the crux, but suddenly Im sticking the iron-cross move, the down-campus, and the thumb-dercling exit moves. I top out the slab, which ascends what is supposedly Europes Largest Boulder (its a huge freestanding stone, not part of a bigger cliff ), and the second ascent of Art Attack is done.

Paige Claassen scans the next pitch on Val

di Mellos 700-meter Qualido Wall in the

Italian Alps.

TIP SHEE Tproject literally all day long. For cooler, crisper sending temps, target September.

Travelers and locals alike must show a per-mit at two security checkpoints to reach the climbing area of Trian-gular Lake. Our Russian friends taught us to say hi (privet), which I cheerfully said upon handing our permits over to the stern border guard. A bout of laugh-ter later, I learned privet is a very casual Hey, whats up?not the best greeting for a Rus-sian border guard. In-stead, try ZDRAHS-tvooy-tyehyep, thats why I chose privet.

ITALY Pack for all styles of climbing, as Val di Mello hosts many great op-tions for bouldering, sport, and multi-pitch climbing. If youre up for a side trip, change of scenery, or youre get-ting weathered out, its also a convenient cen-tral location for other crags in the region. The Lecco Valley is one hour south and boasts end-

BetaGET THERE Fly into Milan and drive north on highway SS36 then east on SS38, until Via del Molini takes you north to Val di Mello. STAY Plan to camp at Sasso Re-menno (campingsassoremenno.com) or Campeggio Ground Jack (groundjack.it), or rent a room in town, which is walking distance from the climbing. SEASON Sep-tember and October are typically dependable months, although we hit unusually rainy conditions during the September of our visit.

JAPANArigatou gozaimasu!

The voice blares over the loudspeaker for the thousandth time. We sit at the neighborhood conveyor-belt sushi restaurant, the one with the animated eggplant logo. Fresh sushi is the most economical thing we can eat here, at $10 for two people. Alternatively, we could pay $5 for one apple at the market or $20 for a small bag of rice. We spend hours mulling over the oddities in the grocery store. Brightly colored packag-es with giggling cartoon logos hide the contents inside. The crag snacks are grim. Tiny dried sh. Processed crab products disguised as pastries. Fermented soy beans. In the cookie and candy aisle, everything is green tea avoredthat I can live with.

Navigating the culinary curiosities is one thing, but nding dry rock to climb is an entirely diff erent obstacle. Typhoon after typhoon sweeps away our dreams of projects. A glorious bed of river-smoothed boulders in the peaceful Shosenkyo Gorge, two hours due west of Tokyo, taunts us. The swelling river swallowed my short-lived bouldering project, so we set to work salvaging Jons. A partially drowned landing and omi-nous rapid underneath the topout make for an exciting adventure once we nally reach the boulders. In the end, Jon comes away with the rst ascent of Candy Crush, a remarkable V13 compression problem amidst the ery autumn leaves.

Japans climbers are strong and focused. In climbing, as in other walks of life, their approach is simple: Through self-discipline, strive for mastery. The results are obvious, as even beginner climbers seem to climb around the V8 level, quickly advancing to harder grades. Off the rock, we notice a similar ideal of perfection: spotless handrails on

A typhoon rolls in over the Paci c coast, cre-ating big waves and an exciting warm-up at Jogasaki, Japan.

BIG TRIP ISSUE

Sebastien Ratel - Beyond Good & Evil&KDPRQL[-RQ*ULIWK

TRILOGYLIMITED SERIESTM

TRILOGY PRO GTX JKT

JUDPPHVRISXUHWHFKQLTXHDQHIFLHQWSURWHFWLYHMDFNHWWKDWLV

ZDWHUSURRIEUHDWKDEOHDQGSURYLGHVJUHDWIUHHGRPRIPRYHPHQW

PROTECTIVE SHELLSTM

OUTSTANDING PRODUCTS LEADING INNOVATION

WATERPROOF

BREATHABILITY

INSULATION

WINDPROOF

WWW.MILLETUSA.COM

26 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

a busy staircase in Tokyo, beautifully mani-cured medians on the highway, pastries that shame even French croissants. When the Japanese choose to do something, they do it wellreally well. Unfortunately, my month in Japan saw very little climbing, as typhoons drenched nearly all the countrys rock. I suc-cumbed to projecting pushups and squeezing in a few training sessions in the Kofu City climbing gym.

BetaGET THERE Fly into Tokyo and drive 1.5 hours west to Kofu City, the nearest town to Shosenkyo Gorge, Ogawayama, and Mizugaki. STAY Japan is no cheap endeavor, but a monthly apartment rental in Kofu City, 30 minutes from Shosenkyo, brought our cost down significantly. Try contacting one of Tokyos climbing gyms, like Caramba (caramba.jp), as a starting point. Onsen, a Japanese spa, also offers beds for rent in private rooms. EAT You could spend a fortune on fresh fruits and vegetables, but sushi on a budget is no problem (think: $10 total for two people).

CHINAWe dont go to that sea cliff . You must drive two hours through expensive tolls and hike two hours through a military camp. Its not good for foreigners. They have dogs.

The sea cliff was the whole inspiration for our trip to eastern Chinahorizontal shelves of sandstone with waves crashing into the base below. But we cant get there. After three con-secutive months of rain in Russia, Italy, and Japan, we need to climb. My ngers feel weak, and Ive lost my snap. I dream of hard routes, long lines, powerful moves, and endurance testpieces. But we need dry, accessible rock to climb. With friends Ben Spannuth, Rich Crowder, and my brother, Sam, visiting from home, we make the executive decision to pull the plug on climbing in Qingdao after a week of driving and hiking around without nd-ing any special objective. We book tickets to Yangshuo, the mecca of limestone stalactites in southeast Chinas Guangxi province, which has grown signi cantly in climbing popularity over the past 10 years.

Yangshuos trendiness didnt match up with the off the beaten path theme of our trip, but if I couldnt rebuild tness, I couldnt climb well, and this entire round-the-world trip re-lied on me climbing my very best. Our rst week in Yangshuo, I took myself out of proj-ect mode and into training mode. I tried to climb everything in sight, regardless of grade. I ailed my way up routes I would have con-sidered warm-ups in the past. I wasnt picky

Claassen tries an open project near Qingdao, China, as smog adds a unique shade to the sunset.

TIP SHEE Tless sport and multi-pitch options in a warmer setting. Con-sider crossing the Swiss border an hour north, or drive a few hours east to the Dolomites.

Beware of pizzocari, buckwheat pasta smothered in cheese and then more cheese. Best after a serious day in the mountains, not just a meager day of sport climbing.

Milan is no different from other busy cities. Plan your drive to and from the airport at low-traffic hours, or prepare to be stuck in your car when you could be drink-ing affogatos (vanilla ge-lato topped with a shot

about conditions, reminding myself that just one more lap would pay off next week after my skin recovered. I destroyed myself, but it was some of the most fun climbing Ive ever done.

My tness returned quickly, so I added projects back into my rou-tine. After nishing China Climb (5.14b), I decided to aim for a style opposite to the slab project in Italy, and the Moon Hill arch presented the steepest, most physical challenge I could imagine. After hanging the draws on Sea of Tranquility (5.14a), which climbs the steepest part of the arch, I swore never to get back on the painful, dead-horizontal roof. But alas, the discomfort quickly slipped my mind, and I was back to suss beta within the hour. On a miracle burn the next day, I wrestled pythonsahem, I mean tufas and stalactitesall the way to the chains, receiving beta from Ben on the exit moves that had resisted my eff orts the day before. I was back!

BetaGET THERE Fly to Hong Kong, then take a cab to the town of Yangshuo. STAY The Rockabond Inn (no website but check tripadvisor.com for info and reviews), owned by local powerhouse climber Abond, is the place to stay for visiting climbersim-peccably clean and conveniently located downtown but off the noisy main road. Abond and his partner Ting help climbers organize everything from taxis to the cliff to new routes to explore and dining options after climbing. EAT Yangshuo is as westernized as China gets. Expect eggs, toast, orange juice, and banana bread for breakfast, or keep it traditional with steamed buns and greens. Either way, you wont be roughing it.

BIG TRIP ISSUE

camp-usa.com

SUPERNOVA

Paige C

laassen on a rare female ascent of the A

mericas first 5.14, To B

olt or Not to B

e, at Smith R

ock, OR

- Photo: R

ich Crow

der

A harness designed by a woman for women. The Supernova is the brainchild of athletePaige Claassen who worked with CAMP R&D for two years to merge the elements of fitand features for elite female climbers. In the end, the Supernova is packed with exclusivefeatures like a specially contoured waist belt that cups to the female form, modifiededge-load construction to perfectly distribute the load, and our patented No-Twist belayloop and Flat Link elastic connecting the waist belt and leg loops.

Available at specialty outdoor retailers nationwide.

thumbundercling

bump

step thrusmear match

thumbundercling

match keep feet low

match

gaston

RF way out

gaston

delicate feet

crux

worst crimp

2 finger gaston

high stem RF

RF step thru

undercling

smooth surf

giant lockoff

big lockoffreach

1st 10 bolts beta

28 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

ITALY: Al duro!

JAPAN: Gamba!

RUSSIA: Davai, davai, davai! [pronounced dah-vie]

SO UTH AFRICA: Lekker bru, that send was hectic!

CHINA: Jia You! [pro-nounced chai-yo!]

INDIA: Chalo chalo!

ECUADOR: Fuerte!

INDIAIt doesnt matter if you do something big or small, but you have to do it as if it matters.

Ruchira Gupta, Emmy Award winner and founder of Apne Aap Womens Worldwide, explains the approach her Indian NGO takes to pull girls out of the sex-trade indus-try. Gupta is a symbol of tenacity in a world where hope and a future are treasured gifts. Im speaking with Gupta in her backyard in Delhi, moments before she hops on a ight to attend a conference in Nepal. She explains how the women she helps give her strength each daystrength to ght for the rights of women in India, to live courageously, even to battle breast cancer. Speaking with Gupta was perhaps the most powerful experience of our whole trip. Her message is simple. Find a way to brighten the lives of those around you, and pursue it with all your heart.

As we wander through the streets of Bad-ami, the small village where were climbing, I feel eyes from every direction. Curious eyes, wondering why a girl wearing pants but not wrist bangles is walking down the main dirt road. Tourists arrive on buses, snap photos within the gated temple, and leave. Jon and I walk through the village at 4 a.m. each morn-ing to climb for an hour before the sun comes up. Locals Tuhin Satarkar, 18, and Sandeep Maity, 20, have ngers of steel and the psych of a thousand Indian monkeys. They act as our guides, spouting proverbs of wisdom: Find drinking water here. Buy a scarf to cover up your shoulders; you cant walk through town in your climbing clothes. You wont get sick from the lassis (spiced yogurt drinks) here, but over there is bad. The monkeys will steal all your food and gear.

I ignore one crucial piece of advice. Dur-ing an evening walk to the temple, I just have to get a photo of the monkey with an oozing shoulder wound, the one you really wouldnt want to touch you. I snap my photo, turn my back, and fall onto the brick oor, dropping my camera with a shriek. Before I can think, the monkey has leapt onto my back, grabbed trash out of my pack, and scampered away. Tuhin and Sandeep laugh, Not so cute any-more, are they? These cunning critters can also run thousands of laps on your project.

Ganesh (5.14a) was the original inspiration

TIP SHEE Tof hot espresso) instead.

ECUADOR A road trip through Ec-uador is a simple way to explore the diverse land-scape. Tick the beach, jungle, alpine tundra, volcanoes, plains, and plenty of rock off your checklist in a single day by renting a car and tackling the narrow but easily navigable roads. Just beware that local drivers have no fear and no rules when passing, especially on windy mountain roads!

Choose Ecuador if youre looking for a country to practice Spanish. Most Ecuador-ians speak very clear Spanish and are patient with learners.

Ecuador is a prime February destination, a rarity for good sport climbing conditions.

Dont stress about converting your cash: Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar, and prices are significantly cheaper.

INDIA Food poisoning in India is tough to avoid. Take plenty of antibiotics with you, but as a climber, be careful which you choose. Com-monly used Cipro can weaken tendons. Azithromycin is a good alternative, or simply charcoal pills (just dont be alarmed when you poop black).

Be respectful of the local culture by sticking to conservative attirewomen should avoid shorts and cover up shoulders with a jacket or scarf after a day of

for our trip because I had seen a video of Gerome Pouvreau climbing the immaculate sandstone bulges of Indias hardest sport climb while trip planning. I knew I had to do this route. Yet sitting on the plane between China and India, I began to question my objective. What was I thinking, comparing myself to Gerome, one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world? Wed compared wingspans in a Facebook thread, and he told me my +5 ape index would technically be long enough for the opening span of Ganesh. But was I strong enough to generate momentum with my foot matched next to my hands?

For six days, I rehearse the rst move, over and over and over. I cant latch the half-pad edge that rests 5 10 above my last hold. I tell myself its possibleI have one inch to spare, for goodness sake! We traveled to India for this one route, and I cant even do the rst move. Finally, my ngers stick. It is possible. After 50+ attempts, creeping closer and closer each time, my body has nally committed the move to muscle memory. The next day, I latch the rst move and dont let go until I sit on a ledge full of monkeys at the top. A few days later, Tuhin fol-lows suit, becoming the rst Indian to climb Ganesh. Witnessing this impressive mark in Indian sport climbing history from the little ledge below, looking out over the horizon that was about to welcome the sun, I know that we took on the challenge as if it mattered, just as Gupta instructed.

BetaGET THERE/STAY Book a resort or hotel in Badami, and then fly into the regional airport in Hubli, where your Badami accommodation will come pick you up. Badami is about 1.5 hours from Hubli, and its a small village with very few options for trav-elers. The Heritage Resort (theheritage.co.in) is a bit pricey, but by far the cleanest choice, with private huts and a spotless restaurant. No need to rent a car, as the climbing is all within walking distance, or pay $1 for a rickshaw ride.

A local Badami woman washes her familys clothes in the village pond, which is covered in green algae.

BIG TRIP ISSUE

How to cheer for your climbing buddies around the world:

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 29

TIP SHEE T

one of the worlds most picturesque yet vacant crags. I cant believe no one else is here to take in the delicate, albeit razor-sharp crimps of this stunning sea crag in perfectly pleasant conditions. Only the crash of waves inter-rupts the still air as I top out Gangster (5.14a) in the Cennet sector. With bloodied tips, we trek back to an evening of cabbage salad and bitter Turkish tea. I also managed an ascent of Sarpedon (5.14a) in Geyikbayiri, but I miss my moms Christmas cinnamon rolls.

BetaGET THERE Fly into Antalya, where you can rent a car or request a shuttle from your accommodation. STAY Kadirs Tree Houses (kadirstreehouses.com) offer a unique experience at Olympos, with actual tree house bungalows for rent with breakfast, dinner, and Turk-ish tea provided each day. No car is necessary, just walk 10 minutes to any crag or the beach. After a re-laxing stay at Olympos, venture one hour north to Geyikbayiri, where youll find the main climbing scene with nearly 1,000 sport routes of every grade.

TURKEYWhat are we supposed to do, lie here naked?

Im slowly learning to expect strange bathing experiences in diff erent countries, but this one tops the charts. Heather and Chris Weidner, our friends and fellow climbers from back home in Boulder, Colorado, have joined us for a month of climbing in Turkey. Heather has taken quickly to the steep limestone climbing, but her opinion of the Turkish bathhouse is yet to be determined. The Turkish bath, similar to ancient Greek and Roman bathing practices, became popular during the Vic-torian era, with a focus on relaxation and cleansing. Im here for the historical experience in the 21st century, but I dont dare inhale, for I will certainly suff ocate from soap suds. I struggle to relax, but Ive never had a giant woman in a black two-piece scrub me downand so vigorously! Im trying not to laugh, but 50+ naked women freely waddle around the ceramic dome room. This is normal, this is how people bathe here, Im learning to adapt to diff erent cultures, yet Im trapped with a middle schoolers mind: This scenario is comically ab-surd. These are the same women who wear headscarves and giant o-ral pants out on the street. In fact, Heather and I purchase a pair of our own ower pants, available in one size ts all, which are sure to garner snickers from the elderly women selling oranges in the market. I feel as though Ive fallen back in time here, to a place where the simple things in life deserve more time and attention to detail than the hustle and bustle of the modern world.

We step out of the bathhouse and onto the busy streets of Antalya before driving out to the countryside, where we are once again pulled back in time. Ancient ruins surround us, and it looks like were in a time machine that cant make up its mind on the decade. My mind drifts to what I might have been doing 3,000 years ago had I lived in the grand city of Aspendos. I imagine peering down on a theater performance from the hill above, or selling oil and salt in the market as many modern residents still do today, but certainly not climbing on seaside cliff s.

Its Christmas Day and normally I would be with my family, playing in the snow outside. Instead, Jon and I head to our projects at Olympos,

climbing, even if the heat is sweltering.

The village of Badami in southern India offers a lifetime of rock. If you can stand the heat (its always hot), its worth the trip to sport climb, boulder, and place gear. The Heritage Resort is a comfortable accommo-dation option, with one of the few clean restau-rants in town (though we still got sick).

TURKEY Stock up on tasty and inexpensive oranges, pomegranate juice, and dried herbs at the week-end markets on the road

Claassen attempts Hereja (5.14a), a steep conglomerate sport route in Las Chilcas, Chile.

Claassen had to work Ganesh (5.14a) before 8 a.m. every day to avoid Indias sti ing heat.

30 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

ECUADOROh no, we never climb at Acantilado; its much too cold.

The locals warn us against the frigid condi-tions at 13,000 feet. I pessimistically ex-pected tropical climbing and short volcanic rock in the equatorial jungle, but the Ecua-dorian climbers I messaged with online were so enthusiastic about the higher crags that I couldnt contain my curiosity. When local climber Christian Medina off ers to take us to sport climbs in the cold alpine valleys at well over two miles above sea level, I dont care what anyone says. Im going.

El Acantilado is a valley of vibrant green pastures. Llamas and alpacas graze on the steeply farmed hillsides, and Ecuadors high-est mountain, the inactive Chimborazo vol-cano, sits as the valley mantelpiece. Yet de-spite the fairy tale setting, our group of three enjoys the lengthy volcanic walls all to our-selves. I log Cinco Ocho as the best 5.13b Ive ever climbed, but lockoff s on perfectly carved edges for 30 meters at 13,000 feet dont come without a struggle. Its hard just to breathe.

We venture south toward the city of Cuen-ca, with Christian as our road trip guide. He explains the diversity of his small country, which is roughly the size of Colorado. Diff er-ent accents mark each region, tiny lambs, or ovejitas, skip across the dirt roads, and gas station snacks trump the buff et at your local Whole Foods. From the sapphire-blue coast-lines and craggy lagoons to the snow-dusted peaks of the highlands and family-run farms

TIP SHEE T

scattered in between, Im falling in love with a country I knew nothing about just a few days prior. And the best is yet to come.

Daniel Duran, who owns the local C Tres climbing gym in Cuenca, tells us of an open project bolted by local developer Mickey Verduga in the alpine tundra of Cajas National Park, where condors and giant hummingbirds (the worlds largest, in fact) make their homes among jagged cliff s, glacier-fed waterfalls, and plentiful straw grass at 13,000 feet. As we drive farther into the mountains, the clouds sink lower and lower, weaving between the hills and towering rock formations. The air grows colder with each turn. We park and walk up a short hill, and I look back frequently, expecting either the Lorax or Gandalf to pop out from around a shrub. Giant plumes of grass cover the oor beneath a white wall littered with orange lichen. I immediately rope up and start cleaning. Underneath the lichen and layers of volcanic dust are holds of every shape and sizea climbers absolute dream.

Over the following week, this mystical alpine tundra becomes our playground. We clean, climb, and try to bring our heart rates down to a manageable level. Before our time in Ecuador ends, we are able to add Middle Earth (5.13+) to the Cajas climbing scene.

BetaGET THERE Fly into Quito for the cheapest tickets, Cuenca to be closer to the climbing. Road-tripping is a great way to see the small country of Ecuador, from the coast to the big mountains, rainforest, cities, and countryside. Car rentals are relatively expensive ($50/day and up), but gas is cheap, as is the local cuisineceviche, tropical fruits, and empanadas are delicious and everywhere. Stay Use Airbnb to find an apartment rental in Cuenca. MORE Dont miss climbing at El Acantilado, one of the most scenic and serene areas Ive visited, with marvelous volcanic sport lines. Learn more and reach out to locals for specific advice on the Climbers of Ecuador Facebook page.

CHILEDid you feel the tremors last night?

Each morning begins by assessing the previous nights earthquake. At rst I thought we would be swallowed into giant openings that ap-peared in the city, but I quickly realize that part of a good nights sleep in Santiago involves a swaying building. Even though its a bustling metropolis of 6 million people, its not hard to get out, and fellow pro climber Matias Meyerholz carts us around to his favorite climbing spots. From conglomerate sport climbing at Las Chilcas to thought-provoking slab wrestling at El Arrayn, small pockets of climbing en-velop the city. But Cajon del Maipo trumps them all, a narrow canyon lled with mountain streams, huasos (Chilean horseman), and cotton candy sunsets. Although we dont have much time to spend in Cajon del Maipo, I immediately notice the diversity of climbing this valley has to off er. Technical, smeary sport climbs, multi-pitch gear routes as-cending orange and turquoise volcanic rock, and an enormous eld of boulders just below El Volcn. The valley is truly a playground for rock climbers, and gale-force winds whipping through branching corridors provide essential friction. We learn quickly to bring a warm jacket de-spite the balmy conditions in Santiago.

But my favorite climbing experience in Chile actually occurs in the gym. Nonpro t VE Global supports children at social risk in Santiago by planting volunteers who serve as mentors, educators, and advo-cates of social justice. The children in VE-supported (Voluntarios de la Esperanza, or Volunteers of Hope) residential homes have suff ered abuse, neglect, and abandonment, but VE provides alternate activities and role models for a more positive future. Climbing played a huge

The rst ascent of Middle Earth, a 30-meter 5.13+ at 13,000 feet in Cajas National Park, Ecuador.

BIG TRIP ISSUE

between Antalya and Geyikbayiri.

Rent a car and an apartment in Antalya if you want to have tons of climbing options and save a bit of money (but do a good bit of driving), or go for the more ex-pensive climbers cot-tages in Geyikbayiri if youll be sticking around that area.

JAPAN Fresh fruits and vege-tables are practically unaffordablewe saw cantaloupe for $40! But fresh sashimi is basi-cally a budget meal.

Respect is important in the Japanese culture. Easily express gratitude in any scenariofrom the toll gates to grocery store checkoutwith a slight bow and a smile. Arigatou!

Fall is typically ideal for climbing, but plan for rain. On bad weather days, visit local shrines, temples, cemeteries, restaurantseven the barber. Theyre all im-portant pieces of Japa-nese culture. My favorites included small udon soup houses (I learned slurping is the appropriate way to cool down your noodles) and the Zenkoji temple in Kofu City.

CHINA Dont worry about ac-cidentally eating dog in China, as dog is a spe-cialty meat served at a higher price than other offerings. Beef is a more common and inexpen-sive offering.

Eggplant dishes are divine, and sour fishhead soup is well, interesting. Use caution at the $1.20 stir-fry stands, which are rumored to reuse the oil disposed from other restaurants.

TIP SHEE T Fishing pills, or char-coal, can help ease diar-rhea in a pinch and are available at local phar-macies; just clutch at your stomach and this will be the first thing youll be handed.

Taxis and rickshaws are the most convenient and relatively cheap ways to get around; for-get about driving a car in the insanely busy streets.

CHILE The Chilean dialect is very different, so try to learn the differences be-fore visiting. Beer is chela not cerveza, and dont mention taco when youre hungryyoull get a traffic jam.

Local restaurants of-fer onces, or afternoon tea, between 5 and 8 p.m., with tea, coffee, pastries, and sand-wiches. Only 30 percent of Chileans do dinner, but restaurants offer it from 8 to 12 at night.

NonprofitsSOUTH AFRICA: Room to Read increases students access to reading material in their native languagea crucial goal in a country where 80 percent of students dont have a library nearby. Rural schools suffer from overcrowding and poor infrastructure. crowdrise .com/southafrica-roomtoread

RUSSIA: Womens World Banking assists low-income women in getting access to microloans that allow them to create sustainable businesses. Customers use loans differently, but all have the goal of making a decent living

and supporting their families. crowdrise.com/leadnowtourrussia

ITALY: Save the Children works to end malnutrition by providing home, school, and community programs that change eating practices, provide nutrient-rich food, and promote healthier choices by influencing policy change. crowdrise.com/leadnowtouritaly

JAPAN: When flash floods devastated Colorados Front Range, where many of our friends, family, and favorite crags are, we switched things up and devoted October and November to flood relief. The American Red Cross supports

immediate rescue operations by providing food, shelter, rescue supplies, care, and comfort to stranded flood victims. crowdrise.com/leadnowtourcolorado

CHINA: Foothills United Way is committed to longterm flood-relief efforts as a result of the September 2013 floods in Colorados Front Range. Funds raised go to support health and human services in Boulder and Broomfield counties in the years of flood recovery ahead. crowdrise.com/leadnowtourcoloradoflood

INDIA: Apne Aap is a grassroots organization based in India

that helps women and girls get out of the sex-trafficking industry. Founded by 22 women in prostitution, this group helps females work together to know what their rights are and how to fight for them. crowdrise.com/leadnowtourindia

TURKEY: CARE (Cooperative for Assistance and Relief Everywhere) is an international humanitarian agency that focuses on getting women and children out of poverty by tackling the underlying causes through community-based efforts. These efforts include improving basic education, finding quality healthcare, and increasing economic opportunity so people can

become self-sufficient. crowdrise.com/leadnowturkey

ECUADOR: Heifer International works with communities, rural organizations, and small farmers to end hunger and poverty and take care of the planet. Through Heifers passing on the gift mantra, families who receive livestock, seeds, or training can pass it on to other families in need. crowdrise.com/leadnowtourecuador

CHILE: VE Global recruits, trains, and organizes international volunteers to work with Chilean at-risk youth. Learn more at crowdrise.com/leadnowtourchile.

role in my life as a kid, building self esteem and a strong work ethic, so I was excited to take a few of VEs girls to the climbing gym in San-tiagoand even more excited when I watched them smile and laugh as they crushed.

Chile was best experienced by scoping out as many crags as possible, rather than projecting at just one. We climbed a ton, but the rst fe-male ascents of Geko (5.13c/d) and Por Belenos (5.13c/d), both at El Arrayn, were two of my favorite ascents.

The La Mina sector in Cajon del Maipo, Chile, offers techy sport climb-ing, airy trad routes, and phenomenal bouldering.

BetaGET THERE/STAY Fly into Santiago and use Airbnb to find an affordable apartment rental. Camping in Cajon del Maipo is permitted, or stay in a refugio like Lo Val-des (refugiolovaldes.com) for convenient access to climbing. A car is essential, but we found navigation particularly difficult in Santiago compared to other cit-ies. Bring a GPS.

BACK HOMEThat day in the Chilean gym brought back memories of my rst time climbing, and how Ive felt every day since. We get to the top of the wall and feel relief, accomplishment, and pride. Whether we have climbing walls, soc-cer balls, or a library full of books, each of us has that inner child who longs to live out his or her dream. By sharing motivation and encouragement, we can support one another in our ambitions at home, on the road, in the climbing gym, or at school or work. This is what climbing teaches me, what my trip af- rmed, and what Im grateful for every day.

Friends from home warned that after so much travel, I would nd it diffi cult to feel con-tent at home. In reality, exposure to so many incredible sites around the worldfrom climb-ing to exotic animals to strange customs to new friendsforced me to soak in all the details. Im now much more observant and appreciative of the subtleties that make my Colorado home just another world-class destination.

32 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

A classic view from Lake Pehoe of Cuernos del Paine in Torres del Paine National Park, in South Patagonia, Chile.

C L I M B I N G.C O M | 33

CO

UR

TE

SY

Uncovering South Patagonias secret moderates

By Andrew Bascue

T he wind was a phantom, raking across the Central Tower and curling into the grooves of the heavily tex-tured orange granite, haunting every move and chill-ing us to the bone. It ripped back on itself, building speed through the gap between the North and Central towers. As the sun began to rise, rays etched an outline of the Central Tower

on the enormous east face of Cerro Escudo far across the valley. I could imagine my position way down on the edge of the shadow. Little hairs on my neck stood on end as I contemplated the vertical distance to the summit. I belayed Andr Labarca up the third pitch of the Central Towers ber-classic Bonington-Whillans (V 5.10, A1, 800m), wonder-ing if we could climb 15 more pitches in this wind and survive the trip back to the ground again. I mean, were just everyday climbers.

KE

ITH

LA

DZ

INS

KI

Everyday Paine

THEBIG TRIP

ISSUE

34 | N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 4

Tucked into a corner of Chilean Patagonia, sandwiched between the border with Argen-tina and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, Torres del Paine National Park is the deni-tion of isolation. Paine [pie-nay] is on the 51 south parallel, making it the worlds south-ernmost climbing area outside of Antarc-tica. The massif is a quiver of granite spires, hemmed in by milky turquoise lakes fed by rivers so clean you can drink right from them.

The trio of Paine towers was discovered about 150 years ago, but word spread slow-ly. Alps-trained Europeans started putting up lines in the late 1950s, and the towers have had climbers licking their chops ever since. The 3,000- to 4,000-foot walls are so big and steep that most of the routes were climbed with siege tactics and aid climbing over weeks or months during short spurts of climbable weather. First ascent parties tagged their routes with names like Alfombra Majica (Magic Carpet Ride, VI 5.10, A3+, 800m), La Ballena de los Vientos (The Whale of the Winds, VI 5.10b, A3, 900m), and Riders on the Storm (VI 5.12d, A3, 1,100m) to help us understand what they went through.

When you hear about Paine, chances are youll hear how hard-as-nails Belgium climb-ers freed 30-pitch 5.12 routes or madmen climbed A4+ big walls for a month in winter-like conditions. What most people dont know is that you dont have to be a world-class al-pinist to put Paine on your bucket list. You dont even have to be a high-altitude climber because the summits top out at 10,000 feet. Beta trickles out slowly, and it seems like no one talks about the host of shorter and easier routes that can be done by moderately strong climbers with decent mountain sense.

I was just such a climber when I arrived in Puerto Natales, the jumping-off point for Paine, with nothing but a backpack and a dream to live abroad. I scored a job pretty quickly when Baguales Brewpub hired me to manage their restaurantthe best beer and burger joint in town (if I do say so myself ). I made a bunch of friends through my buddy Chino Parada and moved into a house with some other dudes in town. Local climber An-dr Labarca and I became regular partners, and soon I was helping him with his project to develop routes on the nearby smaller con-glomerate crags.

Of course, I dreamed of climbing in Paine but always doubted I could. I had climbed big walls in Yosemite and Zion but had never done long alpine-style free climbs. Andr had been making ascents in Paine for more than a decade, and he thought Id make a great part-ner for some big routes. By the beginning of

PATAGONIA TICK LIS T

THE BEST MODERATES IN TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK

West Face, Aleta de Tiburon/Sharks Fin (III 5.8), 1,000, standard rackLa Aleta is a gem. From the very center of Valle Frances it offers quality rock and choose-your-own-adventure climb-ing that never gets harder than 5.8. It is the easiest and most straightforward pure rock climb in Paine. Combine that with the serene seclusion high in the French Valley and you will find a truly classic alpine climb.

Approach from the trail to Campamento Brittanico and cross several rivers to gain an elevated, wooded pla-teau. Set up basecamp on flat ground under a canopy of lenga trees. Hike toward the west face and rope up at the highest point of mo-raine against the wall. The face has various routespick your line and start climbing.

Southeast Ridge, El Gemelo Este/The East Twin(III 5.10-), 1,300, standard rackOne of the last forma-tions to be climbed in Paine, the twin peaks sit at the very back of Valle Frances and are only seen by climbers who venture high into the valley. El Gemelo Este is the higher of the two peaks, and the Southeast Ridge offers great climbing with short cruxes. Gain the ridge by three pitches of low-angle climbing on the right side of the face, and then scramble for three pitches to the business of four vertical pitches to the summit.

the next climbing season he had me convinced, and we came up with a plan. At the end of one winter, we made a frigid approach to the base of towers high in Valle Silencio where we cached a haulbag worth of gear: rope, rack, sleeping bags, stove, fuel, etc. We lived ri