cnc laser for printing images and engraving shapeo

http://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-Laser-for-Printing-Images-and-Engraving-Shapeo/

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CNC Laser for Printing Images and Engraving - Shapeoko 2 basedby als_liahona on August 16, 2014

Table of Contents

CNC Laser for Printing Images and Engraving - Shapeoko 2 based . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: CNC Laser for Printing Images and Engraving - Shapeoko 2 based . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

WARNING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Supply List and the Shapeoko 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 2: Understanding the Laser Mount and Heat Sink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3: The Laser Mount Support Bracket - bottom side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4: The Laser Mount Support Bracket - mounting side... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 5: Make the Laser Module Holder... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 6: Laser Mount Final Assembly... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 7: Attach the laser to the Shapeoko 2... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 8: Setup the Laser Driver (FlexMod P3)... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Step 9: Optional Relay Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Step 10: Connecting everything to the Shapeoko 2 GShield... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 11: Reprogramming your Arduino Uno... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 12: Using your new CNC Laser with PicLaser Lite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Step 13: Sending the PicLaser Lite file to the Shapeoko 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 14: Using your new CNC Laser with Inkscape and MakerCAM... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Step 15: Materials you can engrave or print on... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28


Author:als_liahona Andrew L. SandovalI've been writing software since I was in the 6th grade. In recent years I've developed for Blue Coat Systems, what I believe is the most advanced codeinjection and API hooking engine for Windows ever produced. I've done similar work at other companies for Unix code injection and hooking. (Update: Nowdoing even more advanced reverse engineering, hooking, and injection work for OpenSpan, Inc., and similar work for iOS.) I love to hack! Lately my hackinghas been in the Windows Kernel and on iOS. Electronics has been a favored hobby since I was very young. I am a tinkerer (thank you Massimo Banzi forfinding the perfect word). I took an extended holiday from Electronics while I served a mission for my Church, and then while I had young children. Now I amhoping my children will enjoy the projects I build and will enjoy helping me with them. I have four talented and extremely good looking children, over whom Iam extremely protective, along with one very wonderful wife! Being a Father and Husband are true adventures worthy of any committed tinkerer or hacker! Ispend my days writing software professionally, and my evenings (usually well into the mornings) working on projects, and/or with my family.

Intro: CNC Laser for Printing Images and Engraving - Shapeoko 2 basedIf you own or plan to build a Shapeoko 2 CNC Milling Machine, this Instructable will walk you through the steps necessary to be able to add a 2 watt laser capable ofprinting grey-scale images on many surfaces. You will also find details on how to engrave at full power.

I will take you through all of the steps necessary to build your laser, to control it from the Shapeoko 2's GRBL CNC controller, including modifications needed to thecontroller's software to enable gray-scale output by varying the laser intensity. I will walk you through the software for photo engraving as well as engraving of moretraditional Shapeoko / MakerCAM / Inkscape images.

Though I would personally love to own an Epilog Laser, this Instructable will guide you through building a tool that can do many of the same things albeit at a slowerspeed. It is a great tool for any Maker and you will find hundreds of uses!

WARNING

If you follow the instructions in this Instructable, it is absolutely necessary to obtain AND use proper eye protection. A 2 watt laser can blind you instantly! It can also starta fire and quickly ruin anything it is focused on! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT WITHOUT TAKING ALL NECESSARY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WITHOUTFULLY UNDERSTANDING THE RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH USING A HIGH POWER LASER AND CNC MACHINERY. YOU ONLY HAVE ONE SET OF EYES,DON'T RUIN THEM!

Image Notes1. This is the CPU Cooler mounted to the Shapeoko 2.2. Vent holes to allow air from the fan to help blow smoke away from the lens.3. 1" Aluminum round threaded to fit in the in the base of the CPU Cooler, throughthe aluminum angle. A 10-24 bolt on the side holds the laser diode module firmly


Image Notes1. Thick vinyl cloth from a fabric store.

in the aluminum base providing contact for heat transfer to the CPU Cooler.4. The laser diode module. Twisting the end of it adjusts the laser focus.5. A piece of 1" Aluminum angle adds support to the CPU Cooler where it ismounted to the Shapeoko 2. On the bottom two 10-24 bolts attach it to the CPUCooler.

Image Notes1. Birch plywood2. This is light, not a stain on the board!

Step 1: Supply List and the Shapeoko 2The Shapeoko 2 is an Open Hardware desktop CNC mill. Complete kits may be purchased online or you can acquire the parts and build a customized version of theShapeoko 2 to fit your needs. Details of the Shapeoko 2 can be found at http://www.shapeoko.com/.

When I built my Shapeoko 2 from the full kit offered by Inventables.com, I ordered several of the upgrades. For this project you will not need most of them. In particular, ifyou plan to follow the instructions in this project that allow for gray-scale image printing by varying laser intensity, don't install the limit switches. Limit switches may beadded but it will require additional changes to the GRBL controller so that they can be sensed on a different Arduino pin. (More to follow in additional steps.)The upgraded wasteboard is helpful. I purchased the Drag Chain upgrade but found no use for it. You will notice in my photos that I've run most of the cables through asmall piece of PVC pipe attached with cable ties. This has worked very well.

In my opinion, the GShield Enclosure and fan are very useful upgrades.

If you don't already have an operational Shapeoko 2, this is your first step. Assemble it according to the directions on the Shapeoko website. Run the "marker" test. Youdon't need the spindle for this project, but having it will make your Shapeoko 2 more valuable. After following the instructions in this Instructable, the laser can be easilyremoved when you want to do CNC milling with the spindle.

One final note on the Shapeoko 2: The instructions provide methods of wiring the machine that do not require soldering. I chose to solder and then heat-shrink all of thewires that were connected, to provide for a longer lasting solution.

In addition to a functional Shapeoko 2, you will need the following supplies:

A 2W Copper 445nm M140 Blue Laser Module ($63 on e-Bay)


Don't get a module that has a built-in driver designed for use in a laser pointer, unless you only intend to engrave at full power. The module I purchasedincluded:

The M140 445nm 2 watt Laser Diode, with soldered wires attachedA machined casingA 3-element glass lens. You may wish to use the G-2 lens, but others have reported that this is not necessary and it may over-power the laser tothe point where it will be more difficult to get lighter (gray) burns.

These modules can usually be found on e-Bay or from DTR's Laser Shop.Though not currently (8/18/2014) listed on the main page, in the past the full modules were listed and available on this site.

A FlexMod P3 Laser Driver ($35.99 from InnoLasers)A small piece of 1" x 1/16" Aluminum Angle (cut with a hack saw to 3 1/4")

Most local hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes carry these2 10-24 3/8" socket screws2 10-24 1/2" bolts (size here doesn't matter too much as long as you can tap a while to match)Various bolts / screws may be useful. I used several 8-32 bolts.A piece of 1" 6061-T6 Aluminum Bar

Note: Making this piece requires the use of a metal lathe. If you do not have access to a metal lathe you can purchase a separate heat sink designed towork with your laser module, or you can use alternate construction techniques to adapt a CPU cooler to properly hold your laser module.) I'll show youhow I did it, but this part isn't critical -- what is critical is that you keep your laser module cool!

A CPU Cooler suitable for holding and ventilating your laser module.I used an inexpensive MASSCOOL Model 9T288B1M3G which is compatible with Intel Socket LGA 478 CPUs. I found this at a local computer parts store.Note: The important thing here is to have a way to transfer heat from the laser module to keep it cool. The CPU cooler is also convenient in that it providesa fan for additional cooling and for ventilating away smoke produced by burning (caused by the laser hitting it's target), and because it is easy to mount tothe Shapeoko 2.

A power supply for you CPU fan (if used) - A simple wall wart that outputs the proper voltage for the CPU fan (usually 12 volts) will suffice.A power supply for your FlexMod P3 Laser Driver. If you want a setup like mine, you can use an HQ Power PS1503SB, adjustable DC power supply. This powersupply is helpful because it shows the current draw -- which is a good indication of how much power is going to your laser diode. Nevertheless, a 6 to 9 volt wall-wart providing DC power will suffice. (I keep my power supply set at 6 volts.)Laser Safety Goggles for 445nm Lasers! Don't skimp here, you only have one set of eyes. Make sure to have a separate pair of safety goggles for ANYONEthat may be in the same room when the laser is in use! I personally use 2 different types of goggles, sometimes wearing both pair at once to provide additionalprotection. One of the types I uses is "Eagle Pair 190-540nm & 900-1700nm Laser Safety Goggles". These can be purchased from survival-laser. Note that theare CE certified OD 4+.Various misc. hardware and tools, including drill bits and taps, a die for threading, saws, etc.

Tools Used:

Hacksaw or metal cutting bandsaw (unless you make a different laser module mount/heatsink)Drill Press (You might be able to get by with a hand drill)Metal Lathe able to turn 1" bar stock. (See the "Laser Mount" page for details on options that do not require this tool.)Soldering Iron and good solder

Image Notes1. A small piece of PVC pipe is used to route cables to keep them out of the way during operation of the Shapeoko 2.

Step 2: Understanding the Laser Mount and Heat SinkMounting the laser to the Shapeoko 2 could be done in many different ways. What really matters are the following:

Placement - Attaching the laser firmly to move with the carriage covering the needed areaCooling - Draw heat from the laser diode and module to extend the diode's lifeClearing away the smoke - This can be done by an external fan or vacuum, but the mount can help

The mounts which I will show you require a lathe to machine aluminum. If this is not available to you, find another solution that accomplishes the same purposes. If yousearch the Internet you will find others that have modified CPU coolers like the one I am modifying in this Instructable, so that the laser module fits tightly inside -- or issecured in some way similar to what I will show but without requiring the use of a metal lathe. Experiment a bit and you will find a satisfactory solution! You might alsocheck out the following websites for laser module housings which you can purchase and then modify if necessary to be mounted on the Shapeoko 2 -- or to be held in thespindle holder:

ebay 12mm HostNote that if this is not available a search for "Laser Diode Host 12mm" should turn up others

Odiforce.com 12mm Laser Module Mount


There are at least two ideal places to mount your laser on the Shapeoko 2. The most obvious is on the spindle mount. If your module is attached to the spindle mount --even using the spindle brackets, you will be able to raise and lower it using Z axis commands. This could even be used for focusing the laser. Just keep in mind that if youwant to be able to control the laser intensity, using the technique that I will show, you need to be able to turn Z axis commands into a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)signal to the laser diode. You can't control the Z axis at the same time that you control laser intensity. This however should not be a problem. In the modified GShieldcode which I have provided, the Z-axis can be placed in laser-mode and switched back and forth at will.

The other ideal place that I recommend is just under the spindle mount. You will see this in the photos that follow. In this location, the distance to the waste board is fixed,and you must focus the laser based on the thickness of the material you are burning. Nevertheless it is relatively easy to access and allows the laser to be removed whenmilling operations are done with the spindle, and the spindle can remain on the Shapeoko 2 at the same time that the laser is mounted. (Though, I would highlyrecommend removing the laser before using the spindle to stir up dust!

Image Notes1. This is the CPU Cooler mounted to the Shapeoko 2.2. Vent holes to allow air from the fan to help blow smoke away from the lens.3. 1" Aluminum round threaded to fit in the in the base of the CPU Cooler,through the aluminum angle. A 10-24 bolt on the side holds the laser diodemodule firmly in the aluminum base providing contact for heat transfer to theCPU Cooler.4. The laser diode module. Twisting the end of it adjusts the laser focus.5. A piece of 1" Aluminum angle adds support to the CPU Cooler where it ismounted to the Shapeoko 2. On the bottom two 10-24 bolts attach it to the CPUCooler.

Image Notes1. The CPU Cooler base.

Holes should be added here to allow airflow from the fan.2. 1" Aluminum Angle3. 10-24 holes tapped into the aluminum angle and the CPU Cooler side allowthe mount to be secured to the Shapeoko 2. A hole is also drilled to allow thelaser diode wires (shrink wrapped) through.4. The red and black wires are for the CPU Cooler fan. They are fed by a 12 voltwall-wart. The yellow wire is for the fan's tachometer and is not utilized.5. Clean off excess thermal compound. You don't want it on the lens!

Image Notes1. 10-24 cap screws secure the laser mount to the X-axis Gantry Carriagethrough a pre-existing slot.

Originally I drilled holes for 1/4" screws but slot is too narrow -- don't make thatmistake.2. This rail is for the Z-axis. The spindle is mounted on it's gantry carriage isused.


Step 3: The Laser Mount Support Bracket - bottom sideTake a piece of 1" Aluminum angle and cut it to the length of the CPU Cooler on the side you wish to have mounted to the Shapeoko 2. You can cut it with a hacksaw (asI did because I didn't yet have a metal cutting band saw), or you can use a metal cutting band saw and get a slightly straighter cut.Mark the aluminum angle for 2 mounting screw holes on each side. A #29 hole will be drilled and then tapped with an 8-32 tap for the mounting bolts to pass through intothe CPU Cooler. Tapping the holes can be done after using the aluminum angle as a guide for drilling holes into the CPU Cooler. Both the CPU Cooler and the aluminumangle can be tapped in one pass.

Mark the center of the aluminum angle. Drill a 27/64" hole for the laser holder in that center spot.

Using a couple of pieces of double-sided duct tape, attach the angle aluminum to the base of the CPU Cooler. Using the drill press and the previously drilled holes as aguide, drill through the aluminum angle into the CPU Cooler. With the tape still holding the aluminum angle in place, tap the holes using an 8-32 tap. Then secure theangle aluminum to the cooler using two 8-32 screws. This will keep it from moving while drilling the larger hole. (Not shown in the photos, but it would be the better way.)With the angle aluminum secured to the CPU Cooler base, drill a 27/64" hole in the center of the angle aluminum. Then thread this hole at least 1/2" down with a 1/2"-13tap. Use tapping fluid carefully to avoid getting in the fan, or temporarily remove the fan will drilling and tapping.

Image Notes1. #29 Holes to be drilled and tapped for the 8-32 bolts that will attach thealuminum angle to the base of the CPU Cooler.

Image Notes1. Drilling the mounting screw holes with a #29 drill bit on the drill press.


Image Notes1. Secure the aluminum angle to the base of the CPU Cooler using double-sided duct tape. The pre-drilled holes in the angle will be used as a guide fordrilling into the CPU Cooler.

Image Notes1. Drill the 27/64" hole through aluminum angle into the CPU Cooler base andthread it with a 1/2"-13 tap.

In this photo the double-sided tape was used, but it would be better to secure the8-32 mounting bolts instead, while threading the larger hole.

Image Notes1. Thread 8-32 holes using a tap.


Image Notes1. Install the 8-32 screws to firmly hold the aluminum angle to the base of theCPU Cooler while we work on the mounting side. The double sided tape canremain for now. Later we will remove it, add some thermal grease to the inside ofthe aluminum angle and reattach the angle using the 8-32 screws.2. Notice here how the threads are strong in the aluminum angle and in the CPUCooler base. Inside the cooler they cut into the blades that are used to helpdissipate heat.

Step 4: The Laser Mount Support Bracket - mounting side...Hold the CPU Cooler and aluminum angle against the X-axis gantry carriage of the Shapeoko 2 and use a marker to mark where the slot aligns on the aluminum angle.

Near the edges of the slot, drill #25 holes through the aluminum angle and into the CPU Cooler side, about 1/2" deep. Next thread these holes using a 10-24 tap. Becareful to space the holes so that you don't run into the screws holding the aluminum angle to the CPU Cooler.

The laser will mount to the Shapeoko 2 by threading two 10-24 cap screws into these holes after passing them through the slot in the X-axis gantry carriage as seen inthe photos for this step.

Drill a hole near the top of the CPU Cooler aligned with the 1/2" hole in the base and penetrating this hole. We will run the wires from the laser module through the sideusing this new hole. A 5/16" bit should suffice. The wires should be protected with heat shrink tubing.


Image Notes1. Mark a center line on the aluminum angle by pressing a marker through theslot in the gantry carriage while holding the mount up to the carriage. Mark theedges of the slot. The aluminum angle should be flush with the bottom of thegantry carriage when mounted.2. This is the slot in the gantry carriage where we will mount the laser. Use it tomark the aluminum angle.

Image Notes1. Drill #25 holes through the aluminum angle and about 3/8" into the CPUCooler side.

Image Notes1. Thread the mounting holes using an 10-24 tap.

Image Notes1. Mark and drill a hole for wires to come through from the laser module. Align itwith the 1/2" threaded hole on the base and make it deep enough to penetratethat hole. A 5/16" bit is probably about right.


Image Notes1. Drill a hole in the side of the CPU Cooler above the aluminum angle, all theway through to the 1/2" threaded hole, near the top of the CPU Cooler. This willbe used to run the wires from the laser module out of the mount.2. Don't goof like I did and make a mounting hole too large. I don't know what Iwas thinking. This hole was for a 1/4" screw which is to fat to fit through the slotin the gantry carriage. Go with 10-24 or 8-32.3. 10-24 cap screw used to mount the whole thing to the Shapeoko 2.

Step 5: Make the Laser Module Holder...Start with a 1" round bar of 6061-T6 aluminum that is about 1 to 1.5" long. Place it a metal lathe and face each side. Then turn just enough off of about 3/8 to 1/2" on oneside to make a nice finish.

Then turn along approximately 3/4" of the bar until it is ready to be threaded with a 1/2"-13 die. Using the die, carefully thread that 3/4" as close as possible to the basewithout bending the aluminum. If you are skilled at cutting threads with your lathe you may wish to do it that way instead of using the die.

Next cut the piece off about 1/2" above the threads. I used a parting tool do this, but a band saw would work fine, as would simply facing a piece until it was about theright length. Once it cut, flip it around in the lathe chuck so that the threaded end is inside the jaws but not being held by the jaws. Use a center drill to make a pilot hole,then drill a 15/32" hole (just over 12mm to allow the laser diode to fit inside) about 1/2" deep. (See photo.) This is where the laser module will be held.Drill a 7/32" (or thereabouts) hole all the way through holder. The wires from the laser module will extend all the way through the threaded end.After cleaning up the piece on the lathe, and chamfering any sharp edges, remove the piece from the lathe and place it into a vice. Using a drill press, drill a #29 holethrough the thick part of the holder, all the way into the 15/32" hole in the center.

Next thread that hole with an 8-32 tap and insert an 8-32 screw. This will be used to push the laser module against the holder firmly.


Image Notes1. Turn down enough to clean-up a piece of the 1" round. I turned more thannecessary. The end was faced first.

Image Notes1. After turning the end (about 3/4") down to approximately 1/2" diameter, threadthe end using a 1/2"-13 die.

Image Notes1. Drill a 15/32" hole into which the laser module will slide. Mark the drill bit sothat you do not drill too deep and destroy the threaded end of the holder.

Image Notes1. Drill a #29 hole all the way through to the center of the holder.

Image Notes1. Thread the hole using an 8-32 tap. NOTE: The size isn't terribly important. 6-32 screws would work fine if you want to use a #36 hole and a 6-32 tap.


Image Notes1. This is the completed laser module holder. It will thread into the base of theCPU holder. The wires from the Laser Diode will come through the hole in thethreaded end. The screw on the side will secure the laser module.

Step 6: Laser Mount Final Assembly...To assembly the laser mount, first apply thermal grease/compound to the aluminum angle and CPU Cooler where they will touch. Then install the screws that hold theangle to the base of the CPU Cooler.

Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire that will go into the laser diode. I used a power cable with a barrel adapter on the end. Make sure to have a matchingbarrel jack -- this will connect to your FlexMod P3 laser diode driver.Run the now protected power cable through the side of the CPU Cooler and out the 1/2" threaded hole in the base. Then run it through the threaded end of the laserholder.

Now attach the holder to the threaded hole in the base of the CPU Cooler, after liberally applying thermal compound to the threads and base of the holder.

Next solder the wires to the laser diode. Be certain to keep track of the polarity! (Know which wire and goes to negative, which to positive, and how that maps to the barreladapter.) If you have not already done so, shrink the heat shrink tubing making certain now bare wires are exposed.NOTE in this setup only the top half of the laser module (with the diode) is used. This gives more space between the laser and the materials being engraved/printed.Apply thermal compound to the base of the laser module and insert it into the holder. Be careful not to get the thermal grease on the lens! Finally, tighten the screw on theside of the laser holder to secure it in place.


Image Notes1. Apply thermal grease to the aluminum angle and attach it to the CPU Cooler.

Image Notes1. Thermal grease applies wherever the aluminum angle will touch the CPUCooler.

Image Notes1. Run the power cable through the CPU Cooler side and out the threaded hole.It will then go into the threaded end of the laser module holder. The barrel willconnect to a jack on the box which houses our FlexMod P3 laser driver. DO NOTconnect the laser diode directly to a power supply unless you can control theamount of current flowing to the diode!

Image Notes1. Run the wires from a power barrel cable through the side hole of the CPUCooler and then through the threaded end of the Laser Holder. Pick the size ofbarrel based on the size of jacks you can find easily.


Image Notes1. Liberally apply thermal grease to the threads and base of the Laser Holder andto the aluminum angle on the base of the CPU Cooler. Then thread the holderinto the base of the CPU Cooler.

Image Notes1. Carefully solder the wires to the laser diode. Be sure to keep track of polarity!Run heat shrink tubing along a generous portion of the wire and shrink it down.(Easier done before running through the CPU Cooler.).2. Very carefully apply thermal compound to the base of the laser module. Donot get it on the lens!

Insert the laser module into the holder and tighten the screw on the side of theholder.

Step 7: Attach the laser to the Shapeoko 2...As previously described, mount the laser to the x-axis gantry carriage of the Shapeoko 2 using the 10-24 cap screws, after cleaning up any excess thermal compound.Run the power wire between the gantry carriage and the CPU Cooler and up to where it will not interfere with operation of the gantry.

See the photos for details.

Image Notes1. The CPU Cooler base.

Holes should be added here to allow airflow from the fan.2. 1" Aluminum Angle3. 10-24 holes tapped into the aluminum angle and the CPU Cooler side allow themount to be secured to the Shapeoko 2. A hole is also drilled to allow the laser

Image Notes1. 10-24 cap screws secure the laser mount to the X-axis Gantry Carriagethrough a pre-existing slot.

Originally I drilled holes for 1/4" screws but slot is too narrow -- don't make thatmistake.2. This rail is for the Z-axis. The spindle is mounted on it's gantry carriage is


diode wires (shrink wrapped) through.4. The red and black wires are for the CPU Cooler fan. They are fed by a 12 voltwall-wart. The yellow wire is for the fan's tachometer and is not utilized.5. Clean off excess thermal compound. You don't want it on the lens!

used.

Image Notes1. Laser diode power cable -- will run to the FlexMod P3 driver.2. CPU Cooler fan power cable. Needs a 12 volt DC supply on the red andblack wires.

Image Notes1. A small piece of PVC pipe is used to route cables to keep them out of the wayduring operation of the Shapeoko 2.

Step 8: Setup the Laser Driver (FlexMod P3)...It is important that you follow the direction that come with the FlexMod P3 driver. The input power to the driver should be approximately 6 volts. A little more is fine butkeep it under 8 volts. The power supply should be capable of supplying at least 2 Amps.

The FlexMod P3 needs to be calibrated so that a 0 PWM (or ground value) on the modulation input just barely turns the laser diode on making it visible. A full 255-valueor 5 volts on the modulation input should produce no more than 1.8 Amps! Test this with a multimeter using the directions supplied with the FlexMod P3 driver!

With the FlexMod P3 calibrated it's time to wire everything up and put in a box. I used 22 gauge stranded wire from radio shack along with heat shrink tubing and goodsolder. Pick a small project box that comfortably hold the FlexMod P3, 2 barrel jacks - one for power and one to connect to the laser diode. It should also have anotheroutlet for the two wires that will go to the Arduino/GShield.

Drill holes in the project box for the power jacks, and a separate hole for whatever type of wire or connector you will run to the Arduino/GShield. I suggest putting the laseroutput on the opposite side of the box of the power input. Label or mark the jacks clearly. You will see from the photos that I lazily used the soldering iron to burn thewords "Power" or "Laser Output" near the jacks. Next solder the wires to the jacks being careful of polarity. Push the wires into the project box and pull the barrel jacksinto position. Use the nuts that come with the power jacks to secure them to the box. Then solder the wires to the FlexMod P3.The power positive wire goes to the FlexMod P3's V+ connection. The power ground wire should go to the G(nd) connection on the FlexMod P3. You will need anotherground connection to the Arduino / GShield. I spliced into the ground wire and ran the extra wire as needed for the Arduino.

On the Laser Diode output +/- side of the FlexMod P3 solder the wires that lead to the laser power output jack. Keep the polarity correct all the way to the laser diode!


Another set of wires needs to leave the box. You can use another jack, or some other type of connector. I chose to just heat shrink wrap the wires and take them out ahole in the side of the box. The other end of these wires can be connected to a 2 position interlocking connector, or can be soldered directly to the Arduino/GShield. TheGround wire connects to any of the Ground solder points on the GShield. The signal wire that is soldered to the M(od) connector on the FlexMod P3 will be soldered to aconnection point on the GShield that goes to Pin 11 on the Arduino. (See photos for details.)Connect a suitable heat sink to the transistor on the FlexMod P3, using thermal compound between the two. Attach the heat sink to the project box if so desired. Seal allof this up in the project box and attach it near your Shapeoko 2.

Image Notes1. On one side of the project box, drill a hold for the barrel jack and mark it as thePower Input.

The positive lead of the power from the barrel jack will go to the V(+) connectoron the FlexMod P3. The ground wire will go to the G(nd) connector on theFlexMod P3 and to the Modulation output wire going to the GShield.2. Drill a second hole and run the wires out that will go to the GShield. The signalwire will be connected Pin 11 of the Arduino via the GShield. Inside of the projectbox it will connect to the M+ connector on the FlexMod P3. The ground iscommon with the input DC power.

Image Notes1. On a different side of the box drill another hole for another power jack. Markit for Laser Output. Install the barrel jack here and connect the positive (usuallycenter) connector to the Out+ on the FlexMod P3. Connect the ground wire tothe Out- on the FlexMod P3. Install the jack.

Image Notes1. 6 volt DC input jack.Two wires come off of both the DC positive (center) connector and the Groundconnect (side / black wire).The Ground (black wire) connects to the FlexMod P3 Gnd connector. It alsoconnects to the wire exiting the box for the signal to the GShield / Arduino.

The red (center) positive wire from the 6 volt DC input jack goes to the FlexModP3's V+ connector. As indicated in the instructions it also connects to theInterlock connector on the opposite side of the FlexMod P3. See the instructionsfor the FlexMod P3 for details.2. Laser output jack. The center wire connects to Out+ on the FlexMod P3, andthe Ground wire to Out-.

Image Notes1. Heat sink connected with a layer of thermal compound to help cool thetransistor.


3. Out+ and Out- go to the Laser Diode.4. Interlock solder point, attached to power supply V+.5. V+6. Splicing into V+ to connect to the Interlock solder point.7. Ground wire connects to Gnd.8. A heat sink is attached to the FlexMod P3 transistor, and then attached to thebox.9. Signal wires Gnd, and M+ leave the box to go to Gnd and Pin 11 on theGShield / Arduino.10. The green wire connects to the M+ solder point on the FlexMod P3 andleaves the box to connect to Arduino Pin 11 (via the GShield).

Image Notes1. The 2-page users manual that ships with the FlexMod P3 provides all of theneeded details for setting it up. Just remember to keep the maximum current toyour laser diode at or below 1.8 amps!

The manual is available at:https://innolasers.com/shop/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=42. M+ is connected to Pin 11 on the Arduino that drives the GShield. A PWMpulse is delivered here to set the laser intensity.3. G is the ground. It should be connected to the ground from your 6-8 volt powersupply as well as to the ground on your Arduino.4. V is the input voltage. This is the positive from your 6-8 volt DC power supply.5. The output +/- driver the laser diode. Connect these to a barrel jack thatconnects to your laser diode.6. The instructions that follow will tell you how to setup the driver to limit thecurrent to your laser diode. 1.8 Amps should be the maximum current to extendthe life of your laser diode. If you DO NOT disable the Soft Startup Safety Delayyou will need to turn on the laser using an M3 code 7 seconds before you beginburning.7. Interlock is connected to V+

Step 9: Optional Relay ControlThough this part is optional, I also have another project box with a DC relay control that is connected to the GShield so that the Spindle On (M3) and Spindle Off (M5)commands sent to the GShield will turn the laser power on and off.

This is optional because you can simply turn the power to the laser on and off from the power supply when it use. You should never leave the laser on without constantlychecking on it's work anyway. If, as sometimes happens, the software sending signals to the GShield freezes up, or the gantry stops moving, and the laser remains on, itwill quickly begin to burn your work piece.

The Spindle On/Off commands can be added to the beginning and end of files sent to the GShield to ensure the laser is turned on before starting and shut off when thejob is done, but that is not a good substitute for carefully watching the job.If you wish to use relay control, there are many ways to do it. I bought a Seeed Relay Shield, placed in its own project box, and then ran wires from the GShield to theRelay Shield to control one of the relays. (The Relay shield is designed to plug into an Arduino, but a single signal is needed for one relay.) The box also has a powerinput jack and a power output jack. The ground between the two jacks is connected, and the positive supply line runs through the relay.I've built a similar box for controlling my AC spindle, using an 8 amp solid state relay.


Image Notes1. 9 volt DC power is input here from a wall wart to feed the power requirementof the Relay Shield. The ground is shared with the GShield.2. The wires exiting the box here are the ground and signal wires to control oneof the relays. They connect to the GShield on the ground and Spindle Controllines. (See the next step for details.)3. Power is output here. This cable connects to the FlexMod P3 power input.4. The barrel jack here is the Power Supply input. (6 volt) It's ground runsstraight to the output above, and the positive line through the relay.

Image Notes1. Yes it looks like a redneck solution, but it works great. I stack the boxes next tothe Shapeoko 2 and place a small fan on top of them held in place by a smallpiece of duct tape. The fan helps blow smoke away from the laser. I'm not proudof this mess of wires, but it looks worse than it really is considering all of thethings I can do with this Shapeoko 2.

Step 10: Connecting everything to the Shapeoko 2 GShield...For this step, you will be following directions from the previous steps. The photo however will explain where things get soldered to the GShield. You will notice that I havea piece of duct tape on my GShield. No, it is not broken. It is there just to make it easier to remove and reattach the GShield to the Arduino without removing all of it fromthe GShield box attached to the Shapeoko 2.

In the course of getting this to work, I had to try many things and I had to reprogram my Arduino many times. You hopefully will only have to do this once.

NOTE: If you have upgraded your Shapeoko 2 to use the TinyG or another controller, you will have to use the product documentation, and possibly reprogram thecontroller to allow for laser intensity control. Many of the boards, like the TinyG allow for Spindle Speed control using PWM output. This *should* work. My original attemptwas to use Spindle Speed control commands to control laser intensity from the GShield. I found however that the Spindle Speed control was not synchronized with x, y,and z axis movement. Therefore I reprogrammed that Arduino to allow for a "Laser Mode" which causes z-axis values from 0 to 255 to translate to PWM output on Pin 11to control laser intensity. In LaserMode, the Z axis does NOT move. The next step will provide greater details.

Image Notes1. D11 on the GShield goes to the FlexMod P3 M+ connector.2. The tape here is just to make it easier for my to remove the board from theArduino to program the Arduino or solder new wires to the GShield.3. The ground wire to the FlexMod P3 connects to any of the ground connectorson the GSheild.

Image Notes1. The ground wire for the signal from the FlexMod P3 is soldered here.2. The signal wire going to the FlexMod P3 is connected here. This goes tothe Arduino Pin 11.


Image Notes1. The signal wire to the FlexMod P3 is connected here where the D11 label is onthe GShield.2. There are several places to solder a ground wire. I elected to use this one sincethe PWM control of the laser was my last addition to the GShield, not the first.There are better options on the other side of the GShield that you may wish touse.

Image Notes1. The GShield with all connections hidden behind the fan.

Image Notes1. These wires are solder to other Data lines on the GShield to control spindleon/off and Spindle direction. I have them and a ground wire attached to theconnectors shown above. You may wish to do this for your laser so that M3 andM5 commands can be used to power it through a relay. This is beyond the scopeof this Instructable. For reference sake, Arduino Pin 12 is used for SpindleEnable/Disable (M3/M5), and Pin 13 is used for Spindle Direction.

Step 11: Reprogramming your Arduino Uno...The Arduino Uno that shipped with my Shapeoko 2 kit came with grbl firmware version 0.8c. This version of the firmware allows for M3/M5 commands to enable ordisable the signal on Pin 12 of the Arduino. It also provides support for Spindle Direction control. It does not however provide Spindle Speed control or any other type ofsignal we can use to control laser intensity.

For this reason, I have modified the GRBL source code to allow the GShield to be put in "Laser Mode." When the shield receives a $L1 command, the Z-axis motor isdisengaged, and POSITIVE Z values from 0 to 255 set the laser intensity. A Z0 value sets the laser at it's lowest current setting determined by calibration of the FlexModP3 driver. A Z255 value will set the laser at it's fullest current setting which should not exceed 1.8 Amps if the FlexMod P3 was properly calibrated. From Z1 to Z254 thepower should gradually increase.

To disable Laser Mode, and reengage the Z-axis motor, send the $L0 command to the GShield. This allows a "GRBL" program to enable and disable laser-mode asneeded.

If you are so inclined, you can access my source code changes to the GRBL firmware in github at the following link:

https://github.com/alsliahona/grbl/tree/LaserMode. Be sure to select the LaserMode branch once you have cloned the tree.

If you want to start with a pre-compiled file (recommended) you can download the attached grbl.hex file. Once installed on the Arduino it should display version 0.8laser.


There are many documented ways of installing the .hex file onto the Arduino Uno. I *highly recommend* that you purchase a new Arduino Uno to use with your Shapeoko2. Leave the old one as a backup in case you have serious problems reprogramming the Uno with the new GRBL code. It should be possible to reprogram the ArduinoUno using it's own USB port. I was unsuccessful in my attempt to do this from a Windows 8.1 PC however. The software froze up on me and left the Arduino in anunusable state. To fix this, I simply reprogrammed the Arduino using a USBtinyISP programmer from Adafruit. If you do much work with Arduino's or AVR microcontrollersthis is a must have tool! You can also try using other USB based AVR programmers, from the one Sparkfun sells to the more expensive (non-hobby) versions sold byATMEL. You can go for pre-built programmers as well, such as this one from Hobby King that is only $3.99.After downloading the grbl.hex file, simply connect the ISP programmer to the Arduino Uno, and follow instructions on the programmer to upload the grbl.hex file. See theattached photos for details on how I did this with the USBtinyISP programmer. To follow my process you will need to install the Arduino development software on yourWindows PC. Don't worry, if you don't program you can take it off after we are done with this step. If there is enough demand, I could probably make a few pre-programmed Uno's available for purchase on eBay though I currently do not have plans to do this.

From a cmd.exe prompt, locate the folder that contains the grbl.hex file. Then run the following commands. If necessary adjust directories to point to the proper locationsfor your computer:avrdude -C "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" -c usbtiny -p m328p -e -U flash:w:grbl.hex

You can also use the burn.bat file attached to this step.

Once you get the confirmation message "avrdude done. Thank You", you can detach the ISP programmer and directly attach the Arduino Uno to your USB port. Thenuse your favorite GRBL controller software to connect to the Arduino. In the attached photos I am using a brand new Beta copy of Pic Sender. It was made by the authorof PicLaser Lite from http://www.picengrave.com. We will use PicLaser Lite to send photos to the Shapeoko 2 to print (or really burn) grayscale images on variousmaterial.

If you get to this before PicSender is officially released you can use GRBL Controller 3.6.1 (which was used for some of the images shown on the Intro step.) You canalso use the "Universal GCode Sender." I will however warn you that the Universal GCode Sender should NOT be used with large GCode files, over about 150,000 lines!Because it is a Java program -- and all Java programs are unfortunate, it has little control over how memory is used. After sending about 150,000 lines to the GShield, theUniversal GCode Sender will slow down, causing the laser to burn your target material after the image has been printing for an hour or more. Hopefully fixes for thissoftware will be available, though I am confident that the worst of the problems stem from the choice of language.

Image Notes1. The USBtinyISP programmer is connected to the Arduino UNO to programthe UNO with the GRBL 0.8laser.

Image Notes1. Installing the new GRBL firmare on the Arduino UNO using a USBtinyISPprogrammer.

Image Notes


Image Notes1. Connect the Arduino to a USB port and run a GRBL controller to verify thatthe version is 0.8laser.

1. After connecting to the GRBL's COM port, the message Grbl 0.8laser is sentback indicating that we have properly installed the updated GRBL firmware.2. Notice that GRBL 0.8laser is compiled to run at a 115,200 baud rate!3. PicSender is a new GRBL control program! It is available from the maker ofPicLaserLite which we will use to make gray-scale laser images. Find it athttp://www.picengrave.com/

Image Notes1. Sending the $L1 command enables laser-mode, disengaging the Z-axis andallowing Z values from 0 to 255 to control laser intensity.

Image Notes1. Sending the $L0 command disables laser-mode and reinstates the ability tomove the Z-axis.

File Downloads

grbl.hex (76 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'grbl.hex']

burn.bat (122 bytes)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'burn.bat']Step 12: Using your new CNC Laser with PicLaser LitePicLaser Lite is an inexpensive program available from http://www.picengrave.com. It allows you to load a bitmap file and from it generate G-code for the Shapeoko 2with Z-axis values set to produce a gray scale image.

First pick a photo that you think will look good in gray scale. You may need to resize it using Microsoft Paint or another tool to get the output size you want from theShapeoko 2. The output size is largely determined by the pixel size setting. See the photos for details on the settings that I recommend.

Once you are happy with the settings click on Load File. Then click on Make GCode.

Now click on Save Gcode and give a filename that you will remember.

If you added the $L1 to the machine setup codes, edit the output file and put the $L1 on a line by itself. See the photos for details.The file is now ready to be sent to the Shapeoko 2. Though I fear the feed rate may be a little slow, I'm going to send this image to a piece of inexpensive (purchased atWalmart) artists canvas on cardboard.


Image Notes1. Use Select File to open your bitmap image.2. With the Resolution set to 72 pixels per inch, this image will be 3.89 x 5.83inches. Adjust the size of the image as needed using a program like MicrosoftPaint.3. Load File will be used after the settings are right.4. Change Setting will allow you to change how the g-code is generated.

Image Notes1. These settings may be a good place to start.2. The pixel resolution is fairly fine.3. The Laser Control Command tells PicLaser Lite to use Z axis values to controllaser intensity. Z0 for a Laser Off Command indicates that the laser will not burnat Z0.4. The laser is set to use 0 as the minimum value and 255 as the maximum valuefor the full range of control.5. A Feed Rate of 60 may be too slow depending on the material used.6. These options control the direction the laser travels while printing the image.Horizontal means left to right, back and forth. Left 45 degrees means it starts inthe lower left hand corner and moves to the upper right corner gradually so thatthe longest moves are in the center of the picture.

The option you select may affect how dark the edges of your image turn outbecause the Shapeoko 2 makes slow turns.7. Your output file will go here.8. The $L1 here is optional. If you do not add it to the file you will need tomanually send the $L1 command before sending the file, to put the controller inlaser mode. The drawback of using it here is that you will need to hand edit theoutput file to put the $L1 on a line of its own.


Image Notes1. Modify this line in the output file so that the $L1 command is on a line by itself.2. It should look like this.

Step 13: Sending the PicLaser Lite file to the Shapeoko 2There are a variety of GCode sender programs we could use to send the file to the GShield on the Shapeoko 2. Since I promised the owner of PicLaser Lite that I wouldtest out his sender program we will use this one for this example. Most of the programs are the same. Grbl Controller 3 and PicSender may be amongst your bestoptions. Both are feature loaded, and neither use Java and have problems when they reach 180,000 lines.

First open the sender program. Select the COM port that is connected to your GShield -- often there is only one choice. Make sure the baud rate is set to 115,200. Thenclick Open.

Next put the controller in Laser Mode by entering the $L1 command. You get a message back confirming laser mode.PUT ON YOUR LASER SAFETY GLASSES!

After the controller is in laser mode and your safety glasses are on, turn the laser on. If you are not using a relay to control it, turn the power supply on to the laser. Withthe laser on, you can focus the beam to the smallest clear dot possible on the target material.

Now click Load and select the file you created from PicLaser Lite. The contents of the file will show in PicSender on the left. With the laser carriage positioned at thehome position, and the target material secured in place you can now click the Send button and watch the laser print your picture.

The small approximately 4x6" image will take more than an hour with a .0075 pixel size and a feed rate of 60.

Image Notes1. Select your COM port and ensure the buad rate is 115200. Then click open.You should get a confirmation of the GRBL version in the Messages window.2. Grbl 0.8laser is the correct version indicating that we have the laser modeavailable.

Image Notes1. Enter $L1 and click Do Cmd. to put the controller in laser mode.2. This message confirms that the controller is in laser mode and Z axis valueswill control laser intensity, not the Z axis stepper motor.3. Once in Laser Mode, turn on the laser. This is the time to focus the laser onyour target material.


Image Notes1. Select the file you want to send...

Image Notes1. Contents of the file will be displayed here.2. Click the Send button to begin sending the file to the Shapeoko 2 GShieldcontroller.3. The Messages window will show the last line sent to the controller.4. The current axis values will be shown here. The Z value should always bebetween 0 and 255. If it is not the controller will round negative numbers up to 0and values over 255 to 255.

Image Notes1. This is the finished product on artists canvas. It too 2 hours to print. It wouldlook better larger and have more detail, but would take longer to print.

Image Notes1. A warning sign along with a pair of spare laser safety glasses on the doorknob of the room with the operational laser it a good idea. Another option is toplace laser safety glass around the entire Shapeoko 2.


Step 14: Using your new CNC Laser with Inkscape and MakerCAM...You can also use Inkscape and MakerCAM to produce gcode for the Shapeoko 2. You will need to modify the MakerCAM output in order to put your GShield into Laser-Mode and to set the Z value to control laser intensity. This is best for line-art, like signs with text, etc. Typically you will set the Z value close to full power. You can useM3/M5 commands to shut off the laser during non-cutting/burning moves if you have a relay to control it, or you can modify the gcode by hand to set the laser output toZ0.

MakerCAM produces gcode that is in no way optimal. When producing an 8x10 sign with text, you will see it draw one letter on the middle-right, move all the way to thebottom left and draw another, and then move somewhere entirely different to draw another letter. This is painful to watch and substantially slows down the process ofproducing anything. To help remedy this, I have produce a command-line program that can optimize gcode produced by MakerCAM. It also has a laser-mode that addsM3/M5 commands to enable and disable the laser during non-burning moves. With Grbl 0.8laser you will still need to modify the output from the optimize to first turn thelaser on to full power with Z255, and then if you don't have relay control to change the M3 commands to Z255 and the M5 commands to Z0. This software was originallywritten before I learned that I could control the laser intensity. Perhaps when time permits I will update it for use with the Grbl 0.8laser. The source code for this softwareis available here: https://github.com/alsliahona/gcode-optimizer

A Windows compatible version of the software is attached to this step and called gcodelaseropt.exe. Run it without any arguments to see the details on how it may beused. Be sure to examine the file it produces to make sure it did what was expected. You should become familar with the basic gcode commands such as:

M3 - Spindle EnableM5 - Spindle DisableG0 (with axis values such as Z0, Z-255, X1, etc.) - A non-cutting/burning move for positioningG1 (with axis values) - A cutting / burning moveG2 or G3 is also a cutting / burning move associated with circular movment.

More details can be found on the gcode Wiki page.

The important thing to remember is that you must modify gcode to work with our setup as follows:

Add $L1 to put the controller in Laser Mode -- this can also be done manually before sending a fileAdd a line with G0 Z0 to turn the laser intensity to zero. If you have a relay to control laser power an M5 command will also work.Add a line with G0 Z255 to turn the laser to full intensity. If you've used laser mode with the gcodeoptimizer you will replace the M3 commands with G0 Z255. Ifyou have a relay controlled with M3/M5 commands you will only need to add A255 to the first G0 or G1 command.When the job is done, make sure to shut the laser off with G0 Z0 or M5 if you have a relay.

If you have not already used Inkscape to make SVG files that are fed into MakerCAM (http://www.makercam.com), you should try this at least once to draw text with amarker in your spindle holder, or using the spindle. You then will have no troubles using it with the laser as long as you follow the steps outlined above. Instructions forusing Inkscape and MakerCAM with the Shapeoko 2 are available in abundance on the Internet. The primary difference for laser burning is in how you set the CAMsettings.

Since the laser doesn't need to move up and down, you can set the Safety Height to 0. The will also produce G0 Z0 codes to prevent the laser from burning will movingbetween unaffected areas. You can set the Tool Diameter as low as 0.007, though you should be warned that for Pocket Operations this will produce very large files andthe laser will sometimes overlap and could burn more than is desired. You might experiment with values between 0.007 and 0.02. The Target Depth should be -255, andthe Step Down should be 255 to match. We will fix these later. Stock Surface can remain 0. You will need to experiment with the Feed Rate on different materials. Tooslow and you will overly burn the material. Too quick and the burn will be too light.

In the attached image you will see a very simple example of a MakerCAM generated gcode and MakerCAM settings that produced it. On the far right, highlighted inyellow are the only changes that need to be made to the file to make it compatible with our CNC laser. By changing the Z-255 to Z255 we set the laser to maximumintensity. Adding the $L1 to the top of the file will put the controller in laser mode and keep the Z-axis from moving to an impossible (255 inch) height. Because this is avery simple file, no other changes are needed. If we were to add another path, or pocket operation, we would need to make sure to change all of the Z-255's to Z255 andensure that between operations there was a G0 Z0 line.

A more complex operation could benefit from the gcode optimizer.

Image Notes1. MakerCAM settings that will produce gcode almost compatible with ourLaser, to burn the simple box to the left.2. The original MakerCAM generated gcode file. The highlighted lines must bechanged as shown on the right.3. Adding the $L1 to the file will put the GShield in Laser Mode.4. Changing the Z-255 to Z255 will put the laser at maximum intensity while therounded rectangle is drawn. The F30 is the plunge rate. It is meaningless inLaser Mode.5. The G0 Z0 here will put the laser at minimum intensity. The M5 will shut offthe laser if a relay controls it connected to the Spindle Enable on the GShield.

Image Notes1. A plaque made using the Shapeoko 2 with the laser at full intensity. The imagewas constructed using Inkscape and then imported into MakerCAM and sent tothe Shapeoko 2 using the Universal GCode Sender after optimizing it withgcodelaseropt.exe.


File Downloads

gcodelaseropt.exe (29 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'gcodelaseropt.exe']Step 15: Materials you can engrave or print on...Just about anything that can be burned, charred, or melted with the laser can be printed on in some form. Reflective metals should not be used and the laser is not strongenough to burn them. Below is a partial list of things I've tested.

WoodTongue Depressors / Craft Sticks

works wellCheap Plywood

burns too easilyExpensive Birch plywood

recommended by manyMaple Plywood

images look very niceCraft Plaques

only tested line art, but it looks fantastic when stainedCanvas (inexpensive artists canvas)

works wellHeavy Vinyl Fabric (See the Yellow Fabric with the Instructables Robot)

works great, but hard to keep flatAcrylic

clear acrylic works if first coated with thin black vinylPainted Aluminum

The laser burns through the paint and primerAnodized Aluminum

The laser burns through the anodized layerBlackened Steel

The laser leaves a light mark in the blackened layeriPhone Earphones

Burn very easily - I engraved my initials to keep my kids from claiming them, and it works but scorched all around

You may also be interested in also trying many other new things. It would be interesting for example to write someones name on a sandwich using the laser, or to meltthrough a layer of chocolate on a strawberry or a candy bar.

Please post comments on your experience. Let everyone know what looks good and works well!


Image Notes1. Birch plywood2. This is light, not a stain on the board!

Image Notes1. Thick vinyl cloth from a fabric store.

Image Notes1. As a test, I engraved my name onto this spare 6061-T6 aluminum highpower rocket fin. The laser cut through the paint and primer to the barealuminum.

Image Notes1. A plaque made using the Shapeoko 2 with the laser at full intensity. The imagewas constructed using Inkscape and then imported into MakerCAM and sent tothe Shapeoko 2 using the Universal GCode Sender after optimizing it withgcodelaseropt.exe.


Image Notes1. A craft stick with a URL, could be a business logo, URL, a favorite quote, etc.Maybe even the names of the plants in a pot to which it is stuck.

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Comments12 comments Add Comment

electro18 says: Aug 21, 2014. 7:56 AM REPLYImpressive ! Can it cut patterns from a sheet of paper / cardboard too ?

als_liahona says: Sep 15, 2014. 1:08 PM REPLYJust to follow-up on this question, I used this a few days ago to cut a 12" star (using makercam) from vinyl. It was used as a mask when I painted thenose cone in this 6" diameter, 102" tall high power rocket...


electro18 says: Sep 15, 2014. 8:28 PM REPLYThat looks pretty awesome :) ! and congratulations on your win !

als_liahona says: Aug 21, 2014. 8:49 AM REPLYYes, it definitely can cut patterns from paper or cardboard. The only question is how slow to make the feed rate given the thickness of what is being cut.Since you are burning it, you might need to make more than one pass at a higher feed rate to keep from burning the edges around it too much.

electro18 says: Aug 21, 2014. 10:04 AM REPLYThat's great !

als_liahona says: Sep 7, 2014. 3:56 PM REPLYYes, I think it should work fine. The reason for selecting the FlexMod P3 is the modulation support. A PWM pulse on the Mod input allows you to vary thelaser intensity. I don't actually use the output loop monitor or the interlock option IIRC.

imont says: Sep 6, 2014. 9:16 AM REPLYAbout the FlexMod P3 the store said this:

This product is no longer in stock with those attributes but is available with others.

whit the optinion interlock,output loop monitor,

there is only with the option: standby supression kit. Is this ok for the Project?

anectine says: Aug 22, 2014. 5:37 AM REPLYcan you add a 4th axis to burn around round objects like pens?

als_liahona says: Aug 22, 2014. 7:04 AM REPLYOthers have experimented with this, but, it requires a different controller. The GShield can only control 3 axis. Here is an example discussion on theShapeoko forums:

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=2819&start=10

carlos66ba says: Aug 20, 2014. 6:43 PM REPLYDon't look at the beam with your REMAINING eye :)

seamster says: Aug 20, 2014. 9:57 AM REPLYOh my, this is so cool. Way, way impressive!

Deep Asleep says: Aug 20, 2014. 2:51 AM REPLYI'm going to make a tardis when I get on

cnc laser for printing images and engraving shapeo

Documents

laser intensity

new cnc laser

engraving shapeoko

table of contentscnc

laser mount support

laser module holder

laser mount final assembly

laser driver flexmod