15001CJuly 2002Cooperative Extension Service

Prepared by:

Stephen R. Schafer

4-H and Youth SpecialistLivestock, Equine, Poultry, and Rabbit Programs

University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Reviewers

Sarah Cary 4-H Program Associate, Converse CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Stephanie Cummings 4-H Program Associate, Albany CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Ron Kaufman 4-H Program Associate, Goshen CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Brett Moline County Coordinator, Albany CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Phil Rosenlund County Coordinator, Laramie CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Jim Waggoner Livestock Range, Nutrition, and Management SpecialistUniversity of Wyoming College of Agriculture

EditorKarol Griffin College of Agriculture

Office of Communications and Technology

Graphic DesignerTana Stith College of Agriculture

Office of Communications and Technology

AcknowledgmentsSome of the material (both information and illustrations) for this publication came from 4-H GoatProject manuals in California, Louisiana, Minnesota, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Texas, and other StateCooperative Extension Service presses. These contributions are greatly appreciated.

Mention of products, companies, or individuals, is made with the understanding that no discrimination isintended, and no endorsement implied by the University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S.Department of Agriculture. Glen Whipple, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Wyoming,Laramie, Wyoming 82071.

Persons seeking admission, employment, or access to programs of the University of Wyoming shall be considered with-out regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, disability, age, political belief, veteran status, sexual orienta-tion, and marital or familial status. Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication orprogram information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact their local UW CES Office. To file a com-plaint, write the UW Employment Practices/Affirmative Action Office, University of Wyoming, P.O. Box 3434,Laramie, Wyoming 82071-3434.

Table of contents

Introduction. ................................................................................. 1

Selecting a meat goat project ........................................................ 1

Parts of the meat goat ................................................................... 2

Goat terms .................................................................................... 3

Meat goat breeds ........................................................................... 4

Housing, care, and feeding ............................................................ 6

Health care ................................................................................. 10

Fitting and grooming .................................................................. 12

Showing the meat goat ............................................................... 15

Identify the meat goat parts ........................................................ 20

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IntroductionThe 4-H meat goat project is an excitingand educational opportunity for 4-Hmembers. It requires very little room, ex-pense, or daily chore time. It is also ashort-term project, especially when com-pared to the horse, beef cattle, or dairycattle projects. Goats are also muchsmaller and easier to control and handle.

Selecting a meat goat projectThere are three main types of goatprojects: (1) fiber goats, (2) dairy goats,and (3) market goats. The fiber goatproject is simply raising the goat for itshair, which is known as mohair or cash-mere. This project is very minor in 4-Hand thus will not be discussed in furtherdetail. The dairy goat project is designedfor 4-H members with an avid interest inthe production and reproduction of goats.The market goat project (also known asmeat goat project) is designed for clubmembers interested in goats, but to a lesser

degree. In keeping with the name of theproject, the market goat project partici-pant purchases a young kid, feeds andcares for it, fits and grooms it, shows it,and finally sells the goat.

The club member who chooses the dairygoat project also feeds, cares for, fits,grooms, and shows the goat. However, incontrast to the market goat project partici-pants, dairy goat project participants ex-hibit breeding goats (bucks and does),which are not sold at the county fair youthsale. The club member is able to returnhome with these goats and continues tocare for them in order to produce milk andkids. These kids are then kept to show, sellto market, and/or sell to other club mem-bers for their project. The milk producedby the does is sold.

This project manual discusses and explainsthe meat goat project. If you are inter-ested in the dairy goat project, it is ex-plained in a separate manual.

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The meat goat project is gaining popular-ity among 4-H members in the UnitedStates. Kids grow fast and cost less to raisethan most other types of livestock and agoat project can be quite profitable. Agoat project requires less room, less dailychore time, less expense (for both feedingand housing), and is a short term project(for market goats).

Parts of the meat goatSelecting a goat to show is as important asthe feed and care that you give the goatonce you bring it home. The meat goatproject should begin with a healthy andhigh quality goat.

Before you can identify and select a highquality meat goat, you must know whatone looks like. The first step in this processis to learn the important parts of a meatgoat. The drawing illustrates the most im-portant parts of a meat goat.

Goat termsUnderstanding the vocabulary used bygoat producers, exhibitors, and judges isalso a necessary step in learning about goatselection and production. Knowing theterms listed below will greatly assist youwhen communicating with people in thegoat business.

breed: a group of animals with commonancestry and with similar characteristicsthat are passed on from generation to gen-eration

breeder: owner of the parents of the goatswhen they were mated

buck: an uncastrated male goat, some-times referred to as a”billy”

cashmere: a description of all goats thatproduce cashmere, which is a very fine fi-ber in this type of coat

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castrate: to remove the testicles

crossbred: an animal with parents of dif-ferent breeds

dam: the mother of a particular animal

doe: a female goat, of any age

disbud: removal of horn buds, before oneweek of age

elf ear: LaMancha ear, up to two incheslong

kid: a newborn, infant, or young goat

market goat: a goat that is raised for meatand weighs within the market weight pa-rameters – it must also still have its baby(milk) teeth

mohair: goat wool

kidding: the process of giving birth

purebred: an animal with same-breed par-ents and that could be recorded in an asso-ciation registry

sire: the father of a particular animal

wether: a goat that has been castrated

yearling: an animal between one and twoyears old

Meat goat breedsThe goat is probably the oldest domesti-cated animal, other than the dog, and to-day there are over 200 breeds and varieties.Through evolution, selection practices, andgenetics; goats have developed andevolved to possess similar characteristicsthat include color, color pattern, size, andpurpose (meat, milk, fiber, or a combina-tion of these traits).

The major breeds of meat goats raised inthe United States are Boer, Kiko, Myo-

tonic, Nubian, and Spanish. Many of thedairy breeds such as Alpine, LaMancha,Oberhasli, Saanen, and Toggenburg havealso found their way into the meat chain.However, they are not sought by packersor by breeders for use in production pro-grams such as cross breeding. Pygmy goatsare considered a meat goat in their nativeWest Africa, but are considered as a pet ornovelty in the United States. Also, meatprocessors in the United States discrimi-nate against them because of their smallsize.

Boer. This breed isalso known as Afri-cander or South Afri-can Common Goat.The Boer originatedin South Africa as theresult of uncontrolledcross breeding be-tween the nativegoat and the Angora, European, and In-dian goats that explorers brought. Thename comes from the Dutch word “boer”which means farm and it was probablyused to distinguish the native goats fromthose that were imported.

The Boer is primarily a meat goat withseveral adaptations to the region in whichit was developed. It is a horned breed withlop ears. It has a variety of color patternsand is a very large breed. A mature buckweighs 250 to 300 pounds and a maturedoe weighs 200 to 225 pounds. Perfor-mance records show that they have a kid-ding rate of 200%, a weaning rate of 160%,and have an average daily gain of 0.3 to0.4 pounds per day—with exceptional indi-viduals having an average daily gain ap-proaching 0.5 pounds per day.

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Kiko. Some sources indicate that thisbreed originated in New Zealand, butother sources state that it originated in

Australia. However,all sources relate thatthe breed was devel-oped by crossing na-tive flocks with im-ported dairy breeds.They were selectedand developed basedon twinning ability,growth rate, and sur-

vivability under extensive range conditions.It is very similar in size and meat quality tothe Spanish breed. It has a white to creamcolor and has the reputation of being para-site resistant. It is relatively large breed. Amature buck weighs 175 to 225 poundsand a mature doe weighs 100 to 150pounds.

Myotonic. Thisbreed is known byseveral differentnames: WoodenLeg, Stiff Leg,Fainting Goat,Nervous Goat,Scare Goat, Fall-Down Goat, Ten-nessee Fainting

Goat, and Tennessee Meat Goat. They areknown as fainting goats because of a mus-cular condition (Myotonic, hence theirname) that causes temporary muscle stiff-ness of the hind legs and neck (fainting)when they are startled. This stiffness orfainting causes them to fall over and lievery still for 10 to 20 seconds. Little isknown about the history of Myotonicgoats except that in the early 1880s a mancame to Marshall County, Tennessee with

three does and a buck. These four goatssuffered from fainting fits and would faintwhen they were startled or frightened. Thefour goats were bought by a local doctorwho was curious about their faintinghabit. He propagated the breed and theoriginal owner disappeared. Their originremains a mystery.

Myotonics which have been selected formeat production are heavy rumped and deepchested animals. It has been discovered thatthey are excellent crossbreeding stock forBoer goats. The resulting kids possess supe-rior meat quality. The loin-eye tends to bebigger around, but it also tends to be some-what shorter. The fainting gene is recessive,therefore it is not expressed in the crossbredkids. Myotonics are easy kidders and havegood milk production. The breed is usuallyblack and white, but multiple colors are notuncommon. Compared to other goats, theyare not good climbers or jumpers, makingthem somewhat easier to keep than othergoats. They are a small to medium sizebreed, with a mature buck weighing 100 to175 pounds and a mature doe weighing 75to 125 pounds. Production traits included akidding rate of 190% and an average dailygain of 0.25 to 0.35 pounds.

Nubian. Some people refer to this breedas Anglo-Nubian. The Nubian was devel-oped in England as a dual purpose breedfor milk and meat from African, Euro-pean, and Indian breeds. It has been in theUnited Statessince the late1890s or early1900s and hasbecome the mostpopular breed inthe U.S.

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The Nubian has an aristocratic appearance.It has a Roman Nose and very long earsthat hang close to the head. The hair is al-ways short and any solid or parti-coloredcoat is permitted. However; black, red,and tan are the most common colors andany of these may be carried in combina-tion with white. It is a very large breed,with a mature buck weighing 175 to 275pounds (sometimes as high as 300 pounds)and a mature doe weighing 135 to 170pounds (sometimes as high as 200pounds). Production traits include a kid-ding rate of 165% to 190% and an averagedaily gain of 0.16 to 0.26 pounds.

Spanish. WhenCoronado,DeSoto, andother Spanish ex-plorers came toAmerica, theybrought goats asa meat source.Some of thesegoats escaped

and some were released as other meatsources were discovered. This means thatgoats were in Oklahoma and Texas as earlyas the 1540s. Although not of a specificbreed ancestry they developed throughnatural selection and became known asSpanish Goats or Brush Goats.

There is no consistent color or color pat-tern within the breed. It is a medium tosmall framed breed, with a mature buckweighing 120 to 180 pounds (sometimesas high as 220 pounds) and a mature doeweighing only 65 to 100 pounds. The aver-age daily gain is 0.2 to 0.3 pounds and thekidding rate is 150% to 170%.

Housing, care, and feedingSuccessful goat producers have to takecare of many details to ensure that theiranimals are comfortable. After all, a com-fortable goat is more likely to be healthyand grow efficiently. There are five mainitems that influence and affect the com-fort level of the goat: (1) high qualityhousing, (2) environmental control, (3)clean feed, (4) fresh water, and (5) thecompany of its owner because of the ten-der loving care (TLC) provided.

The housing for goats may be simple andinexpensive, or it may be as elaborate andas expensive as you want to make it. Eitherway it must be functional – both for youand for the goat. The housing must pro-vide protection from the heat and sun, aswell as protection from the wind, rain, andcold. It should also be large enough to ac-commodate both the goat and the peoplewho need to enter the pen to care for it.Some key items to remember when build-ing the shed and pen are:

• The shed should provide both ventila-tion in the summer and protection fromthe cold winds and drafts of winter. Itshould also be well drained. If theseconditions are not met, the goat willnot be as comfortable, not eat properly,and not as grow quickly or efficiently.

• Dirt floors that are well bedded and dryare preferred for goats. Wood and othermaterials are also acceptable, but makesure that plenty of bedding is provided.Regardless of the floor you choose, oralready have, change the bedding atleast once a week.

• The shed, pen, and exercise area shouldbe dog-proof.

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• Design the feeding area so that you caneasily re-arrange the feeding pens and/or divide them into larger or smallerunits.

• Design the shed to allow for easy feed-ing and watering and to keep the areaas clean and dry as possible. This helpslessen the chance of bacteria buildup,resulting in a healthier goat.

• The shed should be built tall enough toaccommodate both you and your par-ents. Also, put the latches and lockswhere you can reach them, but notwhere the goats can get to them.

No matter how old or how healthy thegoat is, it will not do very well without aproper place to live. A goat needs a properhome as well as proper care, feeding, andwatering.

As previously discussed, environmentalcontrol tends to go along with housing.Since goats prefer temperatures of 50 to

60 degrees, there are two areas of concernwhen discussing environmental comfort:(1) cold and/or wet weather and (2) hotand/or dry weather. In cold and/or wetweather, a place to get out of the weather(the shed) must be supplied. In extremelycold weather, a source of heat may also berequired. Perhaps the easiest and most ef-fective way to do this is with additionalbedding and the use of heat lamps.

Safety note: To avoid a possible fire hazard,an adult should set up the heat lamps.

In hot and/or dry weather, a source ofshade (the shed) must be provided. Also,double-check to make sure that the drink-ing water is cool, clean, and fresh. If theshade and drinking water are not providingenough relief, additional cooling must beprovided. Usually an electric fan is all thatis needed. However, if this is insufficient, asprinkler or mister system used in conjunc-tion with the fan should provide enoughcooling.

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Safety note: Water and electricity are not agood mix. Therefore, an adult should set upthe fan and sprinkler or mister system.

Cool, clean, and fresh drinking water mustbe available at all times. If you use an au-tomatic watering system, check the systemdaily. After all, if it isn’t working, it isn’tautomatic. As a result, the goats would notbe getting the water they need. If you usea bucket, pan, or tank; make sure that youchange the water several times each day.The drinking water should never be al-lowed to get hot.

In the winter, make sure that the waterdoes not freeze. This is important becausegoats, like other animals, will not growproperly without sufficient water. Regard-less of the season, all watering equipmentshould be checked and cleaned on a regu-lar basis to ensure that it is providingplenty of cool, clean, and fresh water.

Proper nutrition and feeding of the goatare the primary areas of concern for most4-H members. However, with the com-mercial feeds that are available today, nu-trition is not as much of a concern as itused to be. The biggest issues with feedingare making sure that the feed is clean andfresh, as well as making sure that the feedpans and feeders are clean.

To evaluate rations, you must first under-stand a few simple concepts and termsabout feeds and rations. Ration is the totalcombination of foods that the animal isconsuming. Feed is a mixture of feedstuffs.Feedstuffs are classified as either a concen-trate or a roughage. Roughages are foragessuch as clover, alfalfa, and other grasses.Concentrates are grains such as corn, oats,wheat, and etc., and they have more en-

ergy or calories when compared to rough-ages, which are higher in fiber.

The Crude Protein (CP) content of goatrations is the most practical and commonmeasurement available to evaluate andcompare the quality of goat feed. Theamount of protein in goat rations is muchmore important than protein quality. Re-gardless of the quality of protein fed, it ischanged into a useable nutrient by the bac-terial action in the rumen of the goatstomach. For this reason, goats can effec-tively utilize lower quality feeds and ra-tions.

Properly harvested legume hays (cloversand alfalfa) have a protein content of 12 to20% and, when used as a complete ration,will provide adequate to surplus protein forgoats. However, CP is not the only factorthat must be considered when evaluatingand comparing goat rations, Total Digest-ible Nutrients (TDN) must also be consid-

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Table 1. Goat feeding guidelines

Age of goat Feed/Ration Amount to feed each day

Birth to three days Colostrum (replacer or milk) Provide all the kid wants

Three days to three weeks old Whole milk (cow or goat) Two to three pints

Water and salt Provide all the kid wants

Three weeks to four months Whole milk (cow or goat) Two to three pints

Creep feed a d All the kid wants, up to one pound

Alfalfa/high quality grass hay Provide all the kid will eat

Water and salt Provide all the kid wants

Four months to market Growing/finishing rationd Provide via a self-feeder or a feedschedule, but reduce the amount beingfed if the goat starts to get fat

Alfalfa/high quality grass hay or pasture Provide all the kid will eat, but monitorintake if the goat starts to get fat

Water and salt Provide all the goat wants

Four months to freshening Grain mixtureb d Up to one pound of a high protein feed

Alfalfa/high quality grass hay or pasture Provide all the doe will eat

Water and salt Provide all the doe wants

Dry but pregnant doe Grain mixtureb d Up to one pound

Alfalfa/high quality grass hay or pasture Provide all the doe will eat

Water and salt Provide all the doe wants

Milking doe Grain mixturec d Minimum of one pound for up to twoquarts of milk per day -- add one poundof grain mixture for each additional twoquarts of milk produced per day

Alfalfa/high quality grass hay or pasture Provide all the doe will eat

Water and salt Provide all the doe wants

(a) The creep feed may be a commercially mixed milk supplement or calf starter.

(b) A possible grain mixture for growing or dry does is: 15 pounds of beet pulp;15 pounds of wheat; 20 pounds of linseed, cot-tonseed, or soybean oil meal; and 50 pounds of oats or barley.

(c) A possible grain mixture for milking does is: 10 pounds of linseed, cottonseed, or soybean oil meal; 15 pounds of beet pulp;20 pounds of wheat; and 55 pounds of oats or barley.

(d) If you use a commercially produced feed, use it according to your goat’s stage of growth.

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ered. TDN is a measure of energy or calo-ries in the feed. TDN is a more accuratemeasurement of the concentrates or grainsin the ration because these feedstuffs arerelatively low in CP (8 to 11%), but arerelatively high in TDN (70 to 90%).

Therefore, in order for a goat ration toprovide a complete diet, it must have thecorrect balance of crude protein and totaldigestible nutrients. Thus, both roughages(hay and/or pasture) and concentrates(grains) must be provided to ensure propernutrition. Most goat producers also providea mineral block as a safe-guard againstpossible nutritional deficiencies.

The goal of the market goat project is toobtain a goat that is properly finished andready to sell. Unfortunately, there are nospecific measurements (weight, height,age, etc) that automatically informs theproducer that the goat is ready. Somegoats such as those of smaller frame sizemay be correctly finished and ready formarket at 80 pounds, while larger framegoats may not be ready until they reachweights of 120 to 140 pounds. Therefore,specific recommendations for feeding arenot possible. However, the following gen-eral conditions apply:

• Market goats must have their milk(baby) teeth when they are exhibited.Goats usually retain these teeth untilthey are 10 to 13 months of age.

• The length of neck and length of can-non bone are indicators of frame size.Longer usually indicates a larger framedgoat.

• Frame size is only an indicator of thefinishing weight of the goat. It does notindicate quality. There are good smallgoats and good big goats.

• Under normal (and healthy) conditions,most goats will gain approximately 2 to3 pounds per week.

• Since goats do not deposit external fatas quickly as other animals, a self-feed-ing program can be used. Whether us-ing a feeding schedule or a self-feedingprogram, Table 1 provides valuablefeeding guidelines.

As stated earlier, goats can be placed on aself-feeder and will usually perform quitewell, which is a plus because this also al-lows timid eaters time to eat. However, itis important to realize that goats, likeother animals, vary in their ability to digestfood. Some will get fat on a smalleramount of feed, while some will stay thinon a larger amount of feed. Therefore, thegoat must be monitored on a regular basisand any adjustments in feed, feeding, orexercise should be made according tothese observations. Whether on a self-feeder or on a feed schedule, feeding is adaily responsibility and must never beoverlooked.

Feeding note: Regardless of the condition ofthe goat, hay and/or pasture should neverbe completely removed from the diet becausedigestive problems may result. Also, changesin feed or feeding should be made on agradual basis.

If you feed according to these guidelinesand recommendations shown in Table 1and watch the goat’s health and body con-dition, you should have very few feedingproblems and a more successful and enjoy-able goat project. If you have questions orconcerns regarding the care or feeding ofthe goat, contact your County ExtensionOffice for assistance and advice.

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Health careIn order to have a suc-cessful goat project, it isextremely important to startwith a healthy goat and to maintain thehealth of the goat throughout the project.Therefore, you must be able to identify thedifference between a healthy goat and anunhealthy goat.

A healthy goat will be alert, frisky, playful,bright-eyed, and happy to see you. Ahealthy goat will drink plenty of water andeat with eagerness. The stool (manure)will be pelleted, firm, and moist. Thebreathing will not be loud or labored andthe rate will be 20 to 30 breaths perminute. The normal body temperature of agoat is approximately 103 degrees and thepulse rate is 60 to 80 beats per minute.

An unhealthy goat will have a decreased ap-petite. It will not drink as much, and willnot be frisky or happy to see you. It will alsoappear dull-eyed, listless, depressed,shrunken, and have a dull coat. It may alsohave a hump or arch to its back and willmost likely be standing away from the restof the herd. The stool may be very dry andhard (constipated) or just the opposite –very watery and loose (scours). The breath-ing may be hard, fast, and labored; and thebody temperature may be higher than nor-

mal (any temperature higher than 104 de-grees is considered a fever).

If you think the goat is sick, there are twovery important steps to follow: (1) tellyour parents and (2) separate the sick ani-mal from the other goats. After gettingadvice from a veterinarian or other profes-sional, follow that advice very carefully.Following the schedule shown in Table 2will also greatly enhance the chances ofhaving a healthy goat project.

Many diseases and health problems mayaffect the goat. Most of these are fairlyeasy to control, once you know what theproblem is and provide the proper treat-ment. Also, most health problems can be

Age of kid Activity to perform oraccomplish

Three days Begin feeding alfalfa, grain, andwater

One week Disbud and tattoo ID in ears;castrate bucks

One month Immunize with EnterotoxemiaC&D and Tetanus Toxoid;trim hooves

Two months Second immunization; trimhooves

Three months Wean and deworm; trimhooves

Four months Trim hooves

Five months Begin monitoring for theamount of fat that the goat iscarrying and based on thisassessment, make adjustmentsin the amount of feed that isbeing provided to the goat.

Table 2. Care schedule for kids

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avoided or kept to a minimum by follow-ing these seven steps:

• Buy only healthy goats from healthyherds.

• Keep all vaccinations up-to-date.

• Maintain a de-worming program.

• Clean the shed and pen at least once aweek.

• Clean the waterers and feeders at leastonce a week – twice a week is muchbetter.

• Watch the goat closely and on a dailybasis for signs of sickness and ill-health.

• Inform your parents if you think thegoat is sick.

Fitting and groomingFitting and grooming does not start at theshow or even during the week of the show;it starts the day you bring the goat home.Fitting the goat means feeding, watering,and otherwise caring for the goat so that itachieves and maintains proper condition.

Proper condition means the goat is neithertoo fat nor too thin. Proper condition hasthe same meaning for all meat goats.Through experience you can learn whatvarying degrees of fat look and feel like.Fat feels soft and loose. Muscle or meatfeels hard and firm. Bone feels very hardand concrete. Fat, also known as cover orfinish, gets deposited on the goat in spe-cific areas.

By knowing these areas, it is possible to es-timate how fat the goat is or is not getting.The areas to check for fat deposit are theribs, backbone, tailhead, fore flank, andrear flank. To ensure that proper conditionis achieved and maintained, it is important

that you learn this before adjustments aremade to the goat’s feed, feeding, or exer-cise routine.

Even though proper condition has thesame meaning for all market goats, theydo not all achieve proper condition at thesame time or in the same manner. Somegoats will start to get fat at a young ageand others remain lean all the way to mar-ket weight. Goats that start to get fat at ayoung age must be removed from full feedand put on a restricted diet (less feed perday). These goats should also be exercisedat least 10 to 15 minutes each day in addi-tion to the 15 to 20 minutes that they werereceiving to achieve and maintain showcondition. Goats that naturally stay leancan be left on full feed throughout thewhole project, but they should also receivethe normal 15 to 20 minutes of exerciseneeded per day to achieve and maintainshow condition.

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Regardless of the condition of the goat,limit hay for the last thirty (30) days be-fore the show. The reason for this is thathay causes the goat to appear wasty in themiddle, because of the gases created inthe rumen of their stomach. Do not reducethe hay before this time, because if hay isremoved from the diet for more than thirty(30) days, digestive problems may occur –especially if the goats are confined to asmall area.

Grooming a meat goat for show is a fairlysimple and easy process. Grooming, likefitting, does not start at the show or evenduring the week of the show; it starts theday that you bring the goat home. Groom-ing consists mostly of washing and thenbrushing the hair, both of which should bedone on a regular basis from the first dayyou get the goat home.

Goat grooming can be divided into threecategories: washing, clipping, and footcare. Equipment and items needed forwashing are a halter (for leading and tyingthe goat), hose and/or pail, scrub brush,

mild soap or detergent, and some way todry the goat—a couple of towels will workjust fine. Livestock blow dryers are alsoavailable, but they are expensive.

Items needed for foot care are foot trim-mers and foot care medication for after thetrimming. Trimming the feet, like fittingand grooming, is a fairly simple process.The feet should be trimmed a time or twobefore the final foot trimming is under-taken. This allows both you and the goatto learn what is happening and what to ex-pect. The final trimming for the showshould be done approximately 14 to 21days before the day of the show. This al-lows time for healing.

Items recommended for clipping includelivestock clippers and/or sheep shears (use20 to 22 tooth combs in the sheep shears),small animal clippers (for use on the earsand face), oil for the clippers, scissors orsmall 6 to 8 inch hand shears (for hard-to-reach places), a sharpening stone (forkeeping the hand shears sharp), a spraybottle (for wetting the hair), a clipping or

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trimming table (for holding and control-ling the goat while it is being clipped andgroomed), and an extension cord.

Safety note: Livestock clippers (not sheepshearers) are recommended for use byyounger exhibitors because they are less likelyto cut themselves or cut the goat.

After completing the clipping and othergrooming, protect the work with a goatblanket. Goat blankets are commerciallyavailable, but can be expensive. Pillowcases and burlap sacks can be used by cut-ting a hole for the head in one of the cor-ners, slitting the bottom seam, and addingtie straps. Old sheets, left-over sewing fab-ric, and spandex can be easily made intoblankets.

If you have clipped the goat a time or twobefore the final clipping, both of you willhave a better idea of what to do and howto do it. As a result, the goat will not be asscared, nervous, and jumpy. Also, thisgives the exhibitor an idea of how fast thegoat’s hair grows and this is importantknowledge because the final clipping canbe made at the correct time to ensure thatthe goat will look its best on the day of theshow. (As a general guideline, 10 to 20days before the day of the show is usuallythe recommended).

The first step in clipping a goat is to washit. Washing involves wetting the goat,soaping and scrubbing (gently, but firmly),and thoroughly rinsing the goat.

Washing note: The cleaner the goat, theeasier it will be to clip and the longer theclipper blades will stay sharp (because theyare not getting dulled by dirt particles).Therefore, make sure that the goat is extraclean.

After washing the goat, place it on theclipping stand and prepare it for clippingby calming it down and drying it (dampdry). The goat should remain damp be-cause it is much easier to clip when damp.

When clipping the goat, start at its rearand clip off the hair in long, smooth, andeven strokes. Use vertical strokes on thelegs and horizontal strokes on the bodyand flank areas (see the drawing). Clip allof the hair on the body except for the tail.

When grooming the tail, remove onlyabout the top one-third of the hair on thetail. The remaining hair on the tail shouldbe blended into the clipped part. The hairat the end of the tail should be cut to alength of about one-half of an inch. Thelast step for the tail is to clip the hair com-pletely off the underside of the tail andblend this into the remaining tail hair.

Some shows allow (and some exhibitorsprefer) to keep the hair below the kneesand hocks. These are called britches. If youprefer this, the leg hair should besmoothed by clipping the long hairs andthe hair around the hoof. It is recom-mended that this clipping be done by usinga downward stroke. This results in asmoother and more even appearance.

The final grooming step is to use the smallanimal clippers to remove the hair fromaround the goats ears, eyes, and face. Also,use the hand shears or scissors to touch-upany hard-to-reach places, to blend in areas,or to smooth out any rough spots. Follow-ing these guidelines will result in the goathaving a more uniform appearance.

Grooming note: No amount of groomingcan correct or make up for a poor job offeeding, care, and management of the goat.

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Showing the meat goatShowing the goat, like fitting and groom-ing, does not start at the show; it also startsat home. It begins with the feeding, exer-cising, washing, brushing, clipping, andother tasks that you should be doing fromthe very first day that the goat arrives at itsnew home.

Proper feeding gets the goat to the desiredshow weight. Exercising the goat gets it inshow condition (lean, not fat) and in showring shape (able to walk and be in the ringfor a long period of time without tiring).Washing, brushing, clipping, trimming,and other grooming techniques make thegoat neat, clean, and otherwise presentableto the judge.

Training the goat to work with you beginsby earning its trust and confidence, and bymaking friends with it. This is accom-plished by playing with it, brushing it, andotherwise spending time with it. When thegoat stops running from you when you en-ter the pen, it is ready to start the exerciseand training routine.

Caution note: Goats will almost alwaysrun when you enter the pen, you need to

learn if they are running in fear or inplay and excitement.

The first step is to catch thegoat. Since goats are shownwith a choke chain or collar

and lead strap, the secondstep is to get them used to

wearing the choke chain or collar andlead strap. This is usually accomplished byputting them on for short periods of timeand then gradually increasing the time thatthe goat has them on.

Safety note: During these sessions, the goatshould never be left unattended.

When the first two steps are achieved, theyshould be followed by gently talking to thegoat, petting it, and rubbing or touchingit. Touch and rub down the back, sides,neck, and legs to get the goat accustomedto you and to being touched. The fourthstep is walking with the goat. When walk-ing the goat, teach it to lead with its frontshoulder even with your leg. The goat’shead should be in front of the your leg.

Leading note: This is very similar to howdogs are led when they are being exhibited.

After the goat has become accustomed tobeing caught, collared, touched, andwalked; the next step is to teach it to set-up.Setting-up means getting each leg to comestraight down from the body. Many newexhibitors get this only half right. Remem-ber, straight not only means straight whenthe goat is viewed from the side, but alsowhen it is viewed from the front and therear. When this is performed correctly it isreferred to as having the feet and legssquarely under the body or standing square.

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It does not matter if you set the front legsfirst and then the back legs, or the otherway around; either method is acceptable.

When placing or setting the front feet andlegs, raise or lift the goat’s head and neck(very slightly) by lifting on the lead strap(this is to cue the goat so that it knows thefront feet are being set). When the feetand legs are set, return the head and neckto their normal position.

To set the rear feet and legs, push down onthe goat’s head and neck (very slightly) tocue the goat. When the back feet and legsare set, return the head and neck to theirnormal position.

Now that the goat has all four feet andlegs in the desired position (this is fairlyeasy, if it was practiced at home), theymust be kept in the proper position. Thisis done by standing on the left side of thegoat and keeping it relaxed (but alert) bytalking to it (very softly) or by wigglingthe lead strap, or by some other subtlemethod. Using the lead strap or leash, ei-ther by pushing or pulling on it, also allowsyou to keep the back, neck, and head ofthe goat in a straight line.

Since the choke chain or collar and leadstrap are controlled by your right hand,your left hand is free to do whatever elsemight need to be done – re-setting a foot,rubbing the goat’s head or neck to keep itcalm, wiping off dirt that may have gottenon the goat, or other things that mightneed to be done to keep the goat calm andpresentable. However, do not place eitherof your hands on top of the goat’s back orneck when the judge is looking at it. Youshould stand so that the judge can see thegoat (not you) – keep the goat betweenyou and the judge.

The only exception to this is when thejudge crosses in front of the goat. At thatmoment, for a split second, you will be be-tween the judge and the goat because theexhibitor always shows from the left side ofthe goat. This split second is impossible toavoid.

Showing note: While you are setting up thegoat, keep an eye on the judge. You musttry to keep the goat between you and thejudge. Also, it is important to listen to thejudge’s instructions.

The exhibitor should wear clean, neat, andappropriate clothing, as well as boots orhard shoes. The exhibitor should stand onthe left side of the goat, because goats areexhibited in a clock-wise direction and thiswill keep the goat between the exhibitorand the judge.

Exhibitors must keep a distance of ap-proximately 12 to 18 inches betweenthemselves and their goats, and keep theproper distance between their goat and theother goats in the show ring. Also, as thejudge handles the goat, keep its head upwhile keeping the head, neck, and back ina straight line. When the judge handles thegoat, move to the front of the goat andplace your knee in its chest to keep it frommoving. However, do not brace the goat.

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As you practice each of these steps, you andyour goat will become a team. Market goatsmust have their milk teeth (baby) teeth inorder to show and they do not lose these un-til about a year of age, so you will have manymonths to bond with and train the goat.When you feel confident and comfortable,ask someone to act as the judge. Have himor her walk around the goat, handle it, anddo anything else that you think might ben-efit you and/or the goat.

Showing tip: Attending showmanship clinicsand workshops is a good way to learn moreabout recommendations and techniques.However, do not just attend – go home andpractice what you have learned.

Training and practicing for showmanshipinvolves preparing yourself as well asteaching the goat. You must know what todo and how to do it. You must also men-tally prepare yourself. If you lack poise andself-confidence in the show ring, the goatwill sense that something isn’t right andwill become confused and uncomfortable.Consequently, the goat will not respond toyour cues. This will lead to further frustra-tion on your part and the result is a cycleof confusion and frustration between youand the goat.

Showing hint: Remember, showing involvesthe appearance and attitude of the exhibi-tor, the appearance of the goat, and theshowing or showmanship of the goat. Also, beon time for your class and be courteous –not only to the judge and ringmaster, butalso to your fellow exhibitors.

Preparing for the show ring includes:• Wear clean, neat, and appropriate cloth-

ing.

• Wear boots or hard shoes, not soft shoes.

• Carry a small brush or rag in yourpocket

• Arrive on time for your class.

• Know the goat’s tag number, weight,breed, and date of birth (kidding date).

• Know other relevant information suchas the average daily gain, ideal bodytemperature, protein percentage of thefeed, etc.

• Know what the judge looks like and/oris wearing.

• Know what the ringmaster looks likeand/or is wearing.

Preparing the goat for the show ringincludes:• Wash the goat, either the night before

the show or the morning of the show.

• On show day, feed the goat at least twohours before show time, but only feedapproximately half of the usual amount.This keeps the goat attentive and alert.

• On show day, give about half theamount of water usually provided. Thisprevents the goat from having a largegirth and helps keep it active and alert.

• Groom and brush the goat at least twicebefore show time. This brings out thenatural oils and removes dust and dirt,resulting in a cleaner hair coat.

• Before leaving the pen for the showring, give the goat a drink of water anda final brushing.

• Be calm and gentle with the goat whileon the way to the show ring and whilein the show ring.

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Working as a team in the show ringincludes:• Be aware of the location of both the

judge and the ringmaster, as well as anyinstructions they may give.

• Be courteous to the judge, ringmaster,and other exhibitors. Be sure to say“yes sir” or “no sir,” “excuse me,” and“thank you.”

• Know the goat’s location at all times,especially in relation to yourself and tothe judge.

• Keep the goat between you and thejudge.

• Keep the proper distance (about a goatlength) between your goat and theother goats.

• When leading the goat, walk slowly,with you walking by the left side of thegoat’s neck.

• When setting-up the goat, do it quickly,confidently, and smoothly.

• If the judge touches your goat or if yourgoat rubs against another goat, use thebrush or rag to re-smooth the hair andto wipe off any dirt.

• Maintain eye contact with the judge.

• Smile, relax, and enjoy what you are do-ing.

• Keep yourself cool, calm, and collected;this helps keeps the goat under control.

• Be humble when you win and graciouswhen you lose.

• Remember to thank the judge and con-gratulate the winners after the finalplacing.

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1. _____________________

2. _____________________

3. _____________________

4. _____________________

5. _____________________

6. _____________________

7. _____________________

8. _____________________

Identify the meat goat parts

9. _____________________

10. ____________________

11. ____________________

12. ____________________

13. ____________________

14. ____________________

15. ____________________

16. ____________________

17. ____________________

18. ____________________

19. ____________________

20. ____________________

21. ____________________

22. ____________________

23. ____________________

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Notes