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11507C July 2002 Cooperative Extension Service

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Page 1: coal - UW - Laramie, Wyoming | University of Wyoming · wearing boots with proper heels to prevent your feet from slipping all the way through the stirrups; and (4) wearing Safety

11507CJuly 2002Cooperative Extension Service

Page 2: coal - UW - Laramie, Wyoming | University of Wyoming · wearing boots with proper heels to prevent your feet from slipping all the way through the stirrups; and (4) wearing Safety

Prepared by:

Stephen R. Schafer

4-H and Youth SpecialistLivestock, Equine, Poultry, and Rabbit Programs

University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Reviewers

Gary Grubb County Coordinator, Sweetwater CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Milt Green County Coordinator, Wind River ReservationUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Frank Henderson County Coordinator, Converse CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

George Howard Assistant Equine Specialist and Rodeo CoachUniversity of Wyoming College of Agriculture

Dawn Sanchez 4-H Extension Educator, Uinta CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

Jeri Vines 4-H Extension Educator, Natrona CountyUniversity of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service

EditorKarol Griffin College of Agriculture

Office of Communications and Technology

Graphic DesignerTana Stith College of Agriculture

Office of Communications and Technology

AcknowledgmentsSome of the material (both information and illustrations) for this publication came from 4-H HorseProject manuals in Colorado, Louisiana, Nebraska, Ohio, other state Cooperative Extension Servicepresses, and Karen Hansen, University of Wyoming Associate Professor of Animal Science. Thesecontributions are greatly appreciated.

Mention of products, companies, or individuals, is made with the understanding that no discrimination isintended, and no endorsement implied by the University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S.Department of Agriculture. Glen Whipple, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Wyoming,Laramie, Wyoming 82071.

Persons seeking admission, employment, or access to programs of the University of Wyoming shall be considered with-out regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, disability, age, political belief, veteran status, sexual orienta-tion, and marital or familial status. Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communication orprogram information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact their local UW CES Office. To file a com-plaint, write the UW Employment Practices/Affirmative Action Office, University of Wyoming, P.O. Box 3434,Laramie, Wyoming 82071-3434.

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Table of contents

Introduction .................................................................................. 1

Selecting a horse project ................................................................ 2

Parts of the horse ........................................................................... 4

Horse terms .................................................................................. 5

Horse breeds ................................................................................. 5

Housing, care, and feeding ............................................................ 7

Health care ................................................................................. 10

Fitting and grooming .................................................................. 11

Showing the horse ....................................................................... 14

Identify the horse parts ................................................................ 19

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IntroductionThe 4-H horse project is an exciting andeducational opportunity for 4-H members,especially in Wyoming 4-H, because thehorse business is such a large part of theagricultural industry in our state.

Owning a horse is a big responsibility for 4-H members because it requires much time,effort, dedication, and expense. A good qual-ity horse that is well trained will easily cost aminimum of $1,000 to $1,200 and they cango about as high as you are willing to pay.Also, after the horse is purchased, there manyother costs that must be accounted for, andthese range from $1,000 to $2,000 per year,which is about $100 to $150 per month.These costs include feed and hay, housingfacilities, riding equipment, show tack,medical supplies, veterinarian bills, transpor-tation expenses, management expenses, andother items such as shoeing.

A horse requires care on a daily basis. Themost important of these daily care itemsare feeding and watering, grooming andbrushing, hoof care and cleaning, stallcleaning, and exercising the horse for atleast thirty minutes. This exercise is ex-tremely important in maintaining the gen-eral health of the horse. The feet should becleaned every day and the hooves should

be trimmed and shod every six to eightweeks. To maintain a healthy hair coat, thehorse should be vigorously brushed andgroomed for 10 to 15 minutes every day.This removes the dirt, dead skin, dandruff,and anything else from the skin and hair aswell as promoting the production of thenatural oils that protect the skin and givethe hair a natural sheen.

Safety is also an important factor thatneeds to be evaluated when consideringhorse ownership. Basic safety practices in-clude: (1) speaking to your horse when ap-proaching or touching it; (2) never wrap-ping the lead strap, halter shank, or reinsaround your hand, wrist, or body; (3)wearing boots with proper heels to preventyour feet from slipping all the way throughthe stirrups; and (4) wearing Safety Equip-ment Institute (SEI) certified helmetswhen riding a horse. SEI certifies helmetsthat meet or exceed the American Societyfor Testing and Materials (ASTM) stan-dards for equestrian headgear.

As you can tell, owning a horse is a big re-sponsibility and it requires much time,work, dedication, effort, and expense.However, if you take on this responsibility,all of this time, work, dedication, effort,and expense can be very fun and rewarding.

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Selecting a horse projectYes, many 4-H members think of theirhorses as pets. However, the actual pur-pose of a horse is to work and performtasks that make our lives simpler andeasier. We use them for racing, herdingcattle and sheep, branding cattle, jumping,packing, riding, and many other tasks.Therefore, horses are actually athletes andmust be selected and judged on qualitiesthat enhance their athletic ability. Thesequalities are divided into three categories:(1) conformation, (2) movement, (3)temperament, and (4) intelligence.

Evaluating a horse’s intelligence is very dif-ficult, because it depends on the horse’s at-titude and pedigree. A horse’s pedigree isimportant because the degree of difficultyrequired when teaching and training the sireand dam is a good indicator of how theirfoals will teach and train. The pedigree iseasier to obtain if the horse is registered. Inorder to register a horse, the names of thesire and dam are required, and in most in-stances, the names of the grand-sire andgrand-dam are also required.

Horses, like other animals, have differenttemperaments. Horses that are nervous,spooky, or get mad and upset when beinghandled are much harder to teach andtrain. Also, horses that have bad habits likekicking and biting should be avoided.Choose a horse that is calm, does not getupset at usual activities or normal things,and with enough training to respond to therider. The horse should be gentle, but will-ing (when asked) to go through the basicgaits of walk, trot, and lope. The gaitsshould be smooth and comfortable to therider. Other indications of a gentle tem-perament include easy to lead, standingquietly, and not nipping or kicking at other

horses or people. Age is another factor toconsider. Younger, sensitive, or nervoushorses are not recommended for beginningriders. Green-broke horses are also notrecommended for inexperienced riders.The beginning rider will usually do betterwith an older (at least eight years old) andgentler horse that will be patient with theunskilled hands, insecure seat, and inexpe-rience of the rider.

Movement is much easier to evaluate thantemperament and intelligence. First, havethe horse stand square to make sure that allfour feet and legs are straight. Be sure tolook from the front, rear, and both sides.Second, have the horse walk and trotstraight toward you and then away fromyou. This lets you see if the feet and legsmove straight and true. They should notsway or swing, in or out. Third, watch thehorse walk and trot from the side. Thisshows the smoothness of stride, the free-dom of movement, and the length ofstride. The length of stride is also impor-tant, because the horse’s back legs shouldnot hit the front legs (this is called over-stepping).

Conformation is the overall make-up ofthe horse. It is a blending of the skeletalstructure, substance of muscle, body type,and the balance of all of these factors. Astructurally correct horse has a long andsloping shoulder, a short and strong back, alonger and more level croup, a long under-line, and straight legs. A correctly muscledhorse will have a bulging gaskin and fore-arm, well-defined back muscles, and awell-developed hind quarter with the mus-cling being the widest through the stiflewhen viewed from the rear. Balance is howeach part of the horse is developed in pro-portion to the other parts.

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It is important to understand how struc-ture, muscle, type, and balance work to-gether to produce the desired conforma-tion which makes the horse a better ath-lete. The correct conformation lines areillustrated in Figure A.

Figure A – Conformation Lines

Lines A & F---straight legsLine B---long and sloping shoulderLine C---short and strong backLine D---long underlineLine E---longer and more level croup

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Parts of the horseSelecting a horse to show is as important asthe feed and care that you give the horseonce you bring it home. The horse projectshould begin with a healthy and high qual-ity horse.

Before you can identify and select a highquality horse, you must know what onelooks like. The first step in this process isto learn the important parts of the horse.The important parts of the horse are illus-trated in Figure B.

Figure B – Horse Parts

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Horse termsUnderstanding the vocabulary used byhorse breeders, exhibitors, and judges isalso a necessary step in learning abouthorse selection and production. Knowingthe terms listed below will greatly assistyou when communicating with people inthe horse business.

breed: a group of animals with commonancestry and with similar characteristicsthat are passed on from generation to gen-eration

breeder: owner of the parents of the foalswhen they were mated

castrate: to remove the testicles

colt: a male foal

dam: the mother of a particular animal

farrier: a person who shoes horses

filly: a female horse up to three years old

foal: a newborn

gelding: a horse that has been castrated

hand: a measure of horse height, one handequals four inches

mare: a mature female horse

purebred: an animal with same-breed par-ents and that could be recorded in an asso-ciation registry

registered: an animal whose name and as-signed number have been recorded in therecord books of its respective breed asso-ciation; this record also includes the nameand assigned numbers of the horse’s sireand dam

sire: the father of a particular animal

stallion: an uncastrated male horse

yearling: an animal between one and twoyears old

Horse breedsThere are more than five million horses inthe United States. Until the early 1900s,their primary purposes were transportationand work. However, today they are mostlyused for recreational and pleasure activitiessuch as showing, packing, riding, and rac-ing. As a result of the various needs, uses,and preferences of people; many breedshave evolved or been developed. Eachbreed emphasizes the specific traits thatwere needed, wanted, or otherwisedeemed desirable by the original breeders.As a result, horse breeds have developedand evolved based on four specific catego-ries: (1) speed, (2) work, (3) color, and(4) show qualities.

Speed Breeds were developed either forstamina (Thoroughbred and Standardbred)or as sprinters (Quarter Horse). As a resultof this selectioncriteria, theThoroughbredhas developedinto a tall andlong-leggedhorse that canrun very fastover long dis-tances. TheStandardbred isin the same mold as the Thoroughbred,but it was selected for speed at the trot.Therefore, it is also long and tall, but hasthe ability to trot extremely fast. QuarterHorses are very fast at short distances, be-cause they were actually bred and devel-oped to work cattle, which requires shortbursts of speed and agility.

Quarter Horse

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Work Breeds are also called draft horses.These breeds emphasize the ability to pullor carry extremely large and heavy loads.As a result, they are built like humanweight-lifters. They have very large bodies,which are big framed and very bulky be-cause of the muscle development. Bel-gians, Clydesdales, and Percherons are ex-amples of work or draft horse breeds.

Color Breeds have developed based strictlyon the color or color pattern of the horse.With selection preference being solely dic-tated by color or color pattern alone, im-provement of other traits (conformation,agility, speed, and etc.) has been greatlyreduced. Breeds that have evolved, devel-oped, and otherwise been selected prima-rily on color or color pattern include: Ap-paloosa, Paint, Palomino, and Pinto.

Show Breeds were developed for the showring. Their selection was based on“showy” qualities and “stylish” character-istics. Breeds that have developed alongthese lines include: Saddlebred, Arabian,Tennessee Walking Horse, Morgan, andHackney Ponies.

Since most horses are now used for plea-sure, the distinction between these fourbreed categories has become much less de-finable. Quarter Horses, Paints, Pintos,Thoroughbreds, Appaloosas, Arabians, andmost other breeds have all crossed the lineof their intended purpose and have madesignificant contributions in their new direc-tion of use.

Along with availability, other importantconsiderations are quality and the intendedpurpose for the horse. Make sure that youevaluate the overall quality (conformation,movement, temperament, and intelli-gence), rather than just one or two charac-

Clydesdale

Appaloosa

Arabian

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teristics. There is a wide variation of qual-ity within each breed, so selection shouldbe made based on sound judgment andknowledge – not on impulse or haste.

Housing, care, and feedingSuccessful horse breeders must take care ofmany details to ensure that their animalsare comfortable. After all, a comfortablehorse is more likely to be healthy and growefficiently. There are five main items thatinfluence or affect the comfort level of thehorse: (1) high quality housing, (2) envi-ronmental control, (3) clean feed, (4)fresh water, and (5) the company of itsowner because of the tender loving care(TLC) provided.

The housing for horses may be simple andinexpensive, or it may be as elaborate andas expensive as you want to make it. Eitherway it must be functional – both for youand for the horse. The housing must pro-vide protection from the heat and sun, aswell as protection from the wind, rain, andcold. It should also be large enough to ac-commodate both the horse and the peoplewho need to enter the pen to care for it.Some key items to remember when build-ing the shed and pen are:

• The horse will spend most of its time inthe pasture, so the main purpose of theshed is to provide shelter.

• The shed should provide both ventila-tion in the summer and protection fromthe cold winds and drafts of winter. Itshould also be well drained. If theseconditions are not met, the horse willnot be as comfortable, not eat properly,and not be as thrifty or healthy.

• Dirt floors that are well bedded and dryare preferred for horses. Wood and othermaterials are also acceptable, but makesure that plenty of bedding is provided.Regardless of the floor you choose, oralready have, change the bedding atleast once a week.

• The shed, stall, and penning area shouldbe dog-proof.

• Design the shed to allow for easy feed-ing and watering and to keep the areaas clean and dry as possible. This helpslessen the chance of bacteria buildup,resulting in a healthier horse.

• A young horse will grow, so build theshed tall enough to allow for future

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growth. Also, put latches and lockswhere you can reach them, but notwhere the horse can get to them.

No matter how old or how healthy thehorse is, it will not do very well without aproper place to live. A horse needs a properhome as well as proper care, feeding, andwatering.

As previously discussed, environment con-trol tends to go along with housing. Sincehorses prefer temperatures of 50 to 60 de-grees, there are two areas of concern whendiscussing environmental comfort: (1) coldand/or wet weather and (2) hot and/ordry weather. In cold and/or wet weather,a place to get out of the weather (theshed) must be supplied. In extremely coldweather, a source of heat may also be re-quired. Perhaps the easiest and most effec-tive way to do this is with additional bed-ding and the use of heat lamps.

Safety note: To avoid a possible fire hazard,an adult should set up the heat lamps.

In hot and/or dry weather, a source ofshade (the shed) must be provided – espe-cially if the pasture does not have anytrees. Also, double-check to make sure that

the drinking water is cool, clean, and fresh.If the shade and drinking water are notproviding enough relief, additional coolingmust be provided. Usually an electric fan isall that is needed. However, if this is insuf-ficient, a sprinkler or mister system used inconjunction with the fan should provideenough cooling.

Safety note: Water and electricity are not agood mix. Therefore, an adult should set upthe fan and sprinkler or mister system.

Cool, clean, and fresh drinking water mustbe available at all times. If you use an au-tomatic watering system, check the systemdaily. After all, if it isn’t working, it isn’tautomatic. As a result, the horses wouldnot be getting the water they need. If youuse a bucket, pan, or tank; make sure thatyou change the water several times eachday. The drinking water should never beallowed to get hot.

In the winter, make sure that the waterdoes not freeze. This is important becausehorses, like other animals, will not growproperly without sufficient water. Regard-less of the season all watering equipmentshould be checked and cleaned on a regu-lar basis to ensure that it is providingplenty of cool, clean, and fresh water.

Proper nutrition and feeding of the horseare the primary areas of concern for most4-H members. However, with the com-mercial feeds that are available today, nu-trition is not as much of a concern as itused to be. The biggest issues with feedingare making sure that the feed is clean andfresh, as well as making sure that the feedpans and feeder are clean.

To evaluate rations, you must first under-stand a few simple concepts and termsabout feeds and rations. Ration is the total

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combination of foods that the animal isconsuming. Feed is a mixture of feedstuffs.Feedstuffs are classified as either a concen-trate or a roughage. Roughages are foragessuch as clover, alfalfa, and other grasses.Concentrates are grains such as corn, oats,wheat, etc and they have more energy orcalories when compared to roughages,which are higher in fiber. Properly har-vested legume hays (clover and alfalfa)have a protein content of 12 to 20% andwhen used as a complete ration will pro-vide adequate to surplus protein for mosthorses.

The Crude Protein (CP) content of horserations is the most practical and commonmeasurement available to evaluate andcompare the quality of horse feed. How-ever, Crude Protein (CP) is not the onlyfactor that must be considered, Total Di-gestible Nutrients (TDN) must also beevaluated and compared. TDN is a mea-sure of energy or calories in the feed. TDNis a more accurate measurement of theconcentrates or grain in the ration becausethese feedstuffs are relatively low in CP (8to 11%), but are relatively high in TDN(70 to 90%).

Therefore, in order for a horse ration toprovide a complete diet, it must have thecorrect balance of crude protein and totaldigestible nutrients. Thus, both roughages(hay and/or pasture) and concentrates(grains) must be provided to ensure propernutrition. Most horse breeders also providea mineral block as a safe-guard againstpossible nutritional deficiencies.

The feed requirements for the horse de-pend on its age, size, and the amount ofwork or exercise performed. Foals (underthree months old) require a ration that is

very high in CP (19 to 20%) andhigh in TDN (70 to75%), but they onlyrequire a smallamount per day (8 to9 pounds). Yearlingsrequire a ration thatcontains about 11 to12% CP and about 65 to70% TDN, however theyrequire approximately 13to 14 pounds per day. Amature horse that isworked or riddenabout two hoursa day requires aration that isabout 10% CP andabout 65 to 70% TDNand it needs approxi-mately 17 to 18 pounds per day. A mare inheavy lactation needs a ration that con-tains about 13% CP and about 70% TDN.She needs 21 to 23 pounds a day becauseshe is producing 30 to 40 pounds of milkper day for her foal.

As you can tell, there is a wide variation inwhat and how much to feed—and it de-pends on each horse’s situation. However, agood rule of thumb to follow is to use ahigh quality hay or pasture and supplementwith a good quality feed. The amount ofsupplementation depends on how much orhow hard the horse is being worked or rid-den. A horse that is being ridden or exer-cised lightly each day should receive an ad-ditional 5 to 6 pounds of feed to maintainits body weight, energy, and health. A horsethat is being ridden and/or worked hardeach day may need as much as 10 to 12pounds of additional feed to maintain itsbody weight, energy, and health.

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The key to developing the proper ration isto obtain the correct balance between thefeed, hay, and pasture which will meet thehorse’s daily needs. Also, it is important torealize that horses, like other animals, varyin their ability to digest food. Some willget fat on a smaller amount of feed, whilesome will stay thin on a larger amount offeed. Therefore, each horse needs to be fedon an individual basis.

Another item to consider is that horseshave a rather small stomach for their bodysize. Their stomach only holds about twogallons, which is why horses are continuousgrazers. Therefore, two or three feedingsper day rather than one large feeding arerecommended.

What does all this mean to the 4-H mem-ber? It means that horses will do quite wellon good quality pasture and hay. It alsomeans that they will require a feed supple-ment based on the amount of work or ex-ercise that they are being asked to do. Thenutrition requirement also goes up as theair temperature goes down. This is to help

keep the horse’s body temperature at thenormal level. Each horse is different andthus adjustment of feeding practices andprocedures must be made according to thecondition of the horse. If a horse is thin,increase the amount being fed. If a horse isoverweight, decrease the amount beingfed. Adjustments of feeding practices andprocedures should be done on a continualbasis because the condition of the horseand the amount of exercise it is or is notreceiving also changes on a continual basis.

If you feed according to these guidelinesand recommendations, and keep an eye onthe horse’s health and body condition, youshould have very few feeding and nutri-tional problems and a more successful andenjoyable horse project. If you have ques-tions or concerns regarding the care andfeeding of the horse, contact your CountyExtension Office for assistance and advice.

Health careIn order to have a successful horse project,it is extremely important to start with ahealthy horse and to maintain the healthof the horse throughout the project.Therefore, you must be able to identifythe difference between a healthy horse andan unhealthy horse.

A healthy horse will be bright-eyed, alert,and happy to see you. A healthy horse willdrink plenty of water and eat with eager-ness. The stool (manure) will be firm andmoist. The breathing will not be loud orlabored. When resting, the breathing rateshould be approximately 12 to 15 respira-tions per minute and the pulse rate for ahealthy horse (at rest) is about 30 to 40beats per minute. The normal body tem-perature of a horse is about 101 degrees.

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An unhealthy horse will have a decreasedappetite. It will not drink as much and willnot be frisky or happy to see you. Thehorse will also appear dull-eyed, listless, de-pressed, shrunken, and it will most likelybe standing away from the rest of the herd.The stool may be very dry and hard (con-stipated) or just the opposite – very wateryand loose (scours). The breathing may behard, fast, and labored. The body tempera-ture may be higher than normal (any tem-perature higher than 103 degrees is consid-ered a fever).

If you think the horse is sick, there are twovery important steps to follow: (1) tellyour parents and (2) separate the sick ani-mal from the other horses. After gettingadvice from a veterinarian or other profes-sional, follow that advice very carefully.

Many diseases and health problems mayaffect the horse. Most of these are fairlyeasy to control, once you know what theproblem is and provide the proper treat-ment. Also, most health problems can beavoided or kept to a minimum by follow-ing these eight steps:

• Buy only healthy horses from healthyherds.

• Keep all vaccinations up-to-date.

• Maintain a de-worming program.

• Maintain a hoof-care program.

• Clean the stall and pen, at least once aweek.

• Clean the waterers and feeders at leastonce a week—twice a week is muchbetter.

• Watch the horse closely and on a dailybasis for signs of sickness and ill-health.

• Inform your parents if you think thatthe horse is sick.

Fitting and groomingFitting and grooming does not start at theshow or even during the week of the show;it starts the day you bring the horse home.Fitting the horse means feeding, watering,halter breaking, and otherwise caring forthe horse so that it achieves and maintainsproper condition.

Proper condition means that the horse isneither too fat nor too thin. Through expe-rience and the daily care that you give thehorse, you will learn what varying amountsof condition (fat or finish) look and feellike. To ensure that proper condition isachieved and maintained, it is importantthat you learn this before adjustments aremade in the horse’s feed, feeding, or exer-cise routine.

Even though fitting deals with the condi-tion of the horse and grooming deals withthe care of the skin, hair, mane, and tail –they both begin with the horse being prop-erly fed and cared for. Without proper careand feeding, the horse will be in poor con-dition and poor health as well as have adull hair coat and poor skin tone. There-fore, good nutrition and proper care areimportant to fitting and to grooming.

Grooming the horse properly and regularlywill result in clean and healthy skin, a shinyhair coat, better muscle tone (due to thestimulation received), and a gentler horse(due to more contact with you). Groom-ing also provides time to check for cuts,bruises, swellings, hoof and foot problems,or other situations that might otherwise beover looked.

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The basic tools used to groom your horseinclude a curry comb (rubber or metal), adandy brush (coarse bristle brush), a bodybrush (fine bristle brush), mane and tailcomb, sweat scraper, hoof pick, small ani-mal clippers, scissors, and a cloth. Twoother very useful items are a sponge toclean muddy legs or other dirty areas and ashedding blade to remove loose and shed-ding hair.

It is recommended to establish a routinewhen grooming the horse. By following anestablished system, you (and the horse)will know what next step is. As a result,you will be more thorough, efficient, andless likely to skip a step. Brushing startswith the curry comb, followed by thedandy brush, and finishing with the bodybrush. The rubber curry comb and dandybrush are used in a circular motion. Thebody brush should be used with a swipingmotion. Using the curry comb and brushesstimulates the natural oils that protect thehorse’s skin and hair, gives a sheen to thehair coat, and helps promote muscle tone.

The horse’s head, legs, and feet are moredifficult to groom, because there is nomuscle or fat on the horse’s face or on thelegs below the hocks and knees. Therefore,

it is very important to be gentle on theseareas. Thus, do not use a metal or rubbercurry comb, dandy brush, or anything elsehard on these sensitive areas.

The mane and tail comb is used to removedirt and tangles. Different horse breedshave different preferences regarding thelength and texture of the mane and tail, sobe sure to check the guidelines for yourparticular breed. However, regardless ofthe breed preferences; the mane and tailshould be clean, free of tangles, and freeflowing. To use the mane and tail comb,start at the bottom of the mane or tail andgently remove the tangles and snarls as youwork your way to the top. The mane andtail comb should also be used on the fore-lock.

The next step in the grooming process issimply to wipe down the horse (in the di-rection that the hair lays) with a clean rag.This cleans off any loose dirt or lint andgives a shine to the hair coat.

The final step in the grooming of the horseis to clean the feet. To properly clean thehorse’s foot, it must be picked up. Everyfoal should be taught to consent to havingits feet picked up. This should result in lesstrouble when they become adults. This isan introductory manual designed for thebeginning horse-person, so the specifics ofhow to hold the horse’s leg and hoof willnot be discussed. This information will bedetailed in the intermediate manual de-signed for junior high age horse-persons.However, you might help with hoof clean-ing, so it is important to explain that whenusing the hoof pick, always use it so thatyou are working it away from you – thatway you will not be as likely to accidentlystick yourself.

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Safety note: When you move from leg to legor are otherwise not using the hoof pick, itshould be in your back pocket.

Clean the hoof from heel to toe, and besure to pay special attention to the areaaround the frog. The cleft and commissar-ies should also be thoroughly cleaned be-cause this helps to prevent thrush and otherfoot or hoof infections. Look for rocks,nails, injuries, and loose shoes. Also, checkthe growth of the hoof as this is an excel-lent indicator of the time to change theshoes (which is about every six to eightweeks).

Clipping and washing, do not need to bedone on a daily basis. Clipping only needsdone when preparing for a show, specialoccasion, or similar situations. All excesshair should be clipped from the horse, es-pecially around the face, ears, legs, andfeet. Normally, a horse has about a six inchbridle path that extends from behind theears and down the neck. This area shouldclipped clean to have a nice smooth areafor the head stall. Next, clip all the hairfrom around the muzzle and nose area, un-der the chin, and around the eyes (but notthe eyelashes). Finally, clip the excess hairon the back of the legs, pastern, andaround the cornet band. When clipping thelegs, clip in a downward direction becausethis will result in a cleaner, smoother, andmore attractive appearance.

Washing the horse (with or without soap)removes dirt, stains, and sweat that cannotbe removed by brushing. However, wash-ing too often removes the natural oils thatgive protection to the skin and hair. Tohelp avoid this problem, only wash whenbrushing isn’t getting the job done, when

your horse is exceptionally dirty, or whenpreparing for a show.

Whenever you are around a horse, safetypractices and guidelines should considered– and grooming is no exception. Speak tothe horse before touching it, this helps tokeep from startling the horse. Never standdirectly behind the horse to work on thetail or to clean the hoof, always stand tothe side. Also, never crawl or walk underthe neck or belly of the horse. Keepgrooming equipment in a bucket (orsomething else) and place it where thehorse can’t step in it or otherwise get to it.When finished, always double check tomake sure that all of the equipment ispicked-up and that nothing is left in thestall – otherwise you might end up with alame horse because it stepped on a forgot-ten item of grooming equipment.

Safety note: When walking around the rearof the horse, it is important to let the horseknow where you are, so that it does not be-come startled and kick you. You should ei-ther keep your hand on the horse or walk awide path around it.

Your pride and interest in the horse are re-flected in the way you care for, feed, man-age, and groom it. The appearance of thehorse says much about you and your dedi-cation, so make sure that what it says issomething productive, positive, and com-plimentary. Shortcuts and halfway mea-sures can not be hidden (on the horse or inlife).

Grooming note: No amount of groomingcan correct or make up for a poor job offeeding, care, and management of thehorse.

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Showing the horseShowing the horse, like fitting and groom-ing, does not start at the show; it also startsat home. It begins with the feeding, exer-cising, washing, brushing, clipping, halterbreaking, and other tasks that you shouldbe doing from the very first day that thehorse arrives at its new home. Proper careand feeding gets the horse in show condi-tion (not too fat nor too thin). Exercisingand training the horse gets it in show ringshape (able to stand, walk, trot, and other-wise be in the ring for a long period oftime without tiring). Washing, brushing,clipping, and other grooming techniquesmake the horse neat, clean, and otherwisepresentable to the judge.

Training the horse to work with you beginsby earning its trust and confidence, and bymaking friends with it. This is accom-plished by playing with it, brushing it, andotherwise spending time with the horse.When the horse stops running from youwhen you enter the pen, it is time to startthe exercise and training routine.

The first step is to simply catch the horse.Since horses are shown with a halter, the

second step is to get them used to wearing ahalter and lead strap. This is usually accom-plished by simply putting them on for shortperiods of time and then gradually increas-ing the time that the horse has them on.

Safety note. During these sessions, the horseshould never be left unattended.

This is followed by gently talking to it,petting it, and rubbing it: rub down theback, sides, neck, and legs – this is to sim-ply get the horse used to you and to beingtouched. The fourth step is walking withthe horse. After the horse is accustomed tobeing caught, haltered, touched, andwalked – the next step is to teach it to set-up. This is simply getting each leg to comestraight down from the body. Many newexhibitors get this only half right. Remem-ber, straight not only means straight whenthe horse is viewed from the side, but alsowhen it is viewed from the front and therear. When this is preformed correctly it isreferred to as having the feet and legssquarely under the body. It is also referredto as standing square. It does not matter ifyou set the front legs first and then theback legs or the other way around, eithermethod is acceptable.

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When placing or setting the front feet andlegs, raise or lift the horse’s head (veryslightly) by lifting on the lead strap (this isto cue the horse so that it knows the frontfeet and legs are being set). When thefront feet and legs are set, return the headto its normal position. To set the rear feetand legs, lower the horse’s head (veryslightly) by pulling down on the lead strap(this is again to cue the horse, only thistime it is for the back feet and legs). Whenthe back feet and legs are set, return thehead to its normal position.

Now that the horse has all four feet andlegs in the desired position (this is fairlyeasy, if it was practiced at home), theymust be kept in the proper position. This isdone by standing on the left side of thehorse and keeping it relaxed (but alert) bytalking to it (very softly), slightly wigglingthe lead strap, or by some other subtlemethod.

When the feet and legs are set; the back,neck, and head must be placed and main-tained in a straight line. This is accom-plished by getting the head straight withthe neck which almost automaticallyaligns these with the back. To get the headand neck straight is fairly easy, simply pushor pull on the lead strap. When everythingis in the desired position, “lock it” in placeby lifting up on the lead strap to make thehorse hold its head up.

Now that the horse has all four feet andlegs in the desired position (and this isfairly easy, if it was practiced at home),they must be kept in this position. This canbe accomplished by softly speaking to itand keeping the head held up. This willkeep the horse relaxed (but alert) and thuslooking its best for the judge. Also, alwaysstand so that the judge can see the horse

(not you)—keep the horse between youand the judge. This is best accomplishedby using a process called the quarter sys-tem.

The quarter system is a basic method forshowing a horse. According to KarenHansen, University of Wyoming AssociateProfessor of Animal Science, an easy wayto learn this method of showmanship is tothink in terms of positioning. When thejudge is at the back half of the horse, theexhibitor should be on the same side of thehorse as the judge. When the judge is atthe front half of the horse, the exhibitorshould be on the opposite side of the horseas the judge. Examples of this are shownin Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.

Figure 1 is illustrating that when the judgeis at the front half of the horse (in SectionA or B), the exhibitor should be on the op-posite side to give the judge and exhibitora clear view.

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Figure 2 is showing that the judge crossesthe imaginary line across the back of thehorse and is positioned at the rear half ofthe horse, the exhibitor then moves to thesame side as the judge.

Figure 4 is showing that as the judgecrosses the imaginary line directly behindthe horse and moves into Section C, theexhibitor moves to the same side of thehorse as the judge.

Figure 3 is depicting the exhibitor does notswitch sides while the is continuing to viewthe horse from the rear.

Figure 5 is illustrating that the exhibitorremains on the same side of the horse asthe judge until the judge crosses the imagi-nary line across the horse’s back from Sec-tion C into Section B.

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Figure 6 is showing that as the judgecrosses the imaginary line dividing SectionC and Section D, which means the judge ismoving from the back half of the horse tothe front half, the exhibitor moves to theopposite side of the horse to avoid ob-structing the view of the judge.

Showing note: While you are setting up thehorse, keep an eye on the judge. You mustkeep the horse between you and the judge.Also, it is important to listen to the judge’sinstructions.

As you practice each of these steps, youand your horse will become a team. Whenyou feel confident and comfortable, asksomeone to act as the judge. He or sheshould walk around the horse, handle it,and do anything else that you think mightbenefit you and/or the horse.

Showing tip: Attending showmanship clinicsand workshops is a good way to learn moreabout recommendations and techniques.However, do not just attend – go home andpractice what you have learned.

Training and practicing for showmanshipinvolves preparing yourself as well asteaching the horse. You must know whatto do and how to do it. You must alsomentally prepare yourself. If you lack poiseand self-confidence in the show ring, thehorse will sense that something isn’t rightand will become confused and uncomfort-able. Consequently, the horse will not re-spond to your cues. This will lead to fur-ther frustration on your part and the resultis a cycle of confusion and frustration be-tween you and the horse.

Showing hint: Remember, showing involvesthe appearance and attitude of the exhibi-tor, the appearance of the horse, and theshowing or showmanship of the horse. Also, beon time for your class and be courteous –not only to the judge and ringmaster, butalso to your fellow exhibitors.

Showmanship guidelines vary slightly fromone breed to another. However, 4-H doesnot give preference to one breed or an-other, so general showmanship and scoringguidelines are used. This scoring system isshown in the Showmanship Score Card.

SHOWMANSHIP SCORE CARDScoring Guideline PointsA. Appearance of the Horse 40

a. condition 15b. grooming 20c. tack 5

B. Showing the Horse 50a. ring deportment 10b. actions 10c. leading 15d. posing 15

C. The Exhibitor 10a. appearance 5b. attitude 5

Total Possible Points 100

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Preparing for the show ring includes:• Wear clean, neat, and appropriate

clothing.

• Wear boots, not shoes.

• Carry a small rag in your pocket.

• Arrive on time for your class.

• Know the pattern if the class requiresone.

• Know the horse’s breed, sex, height,and date of birth (foaling date).

• Know other relevant information suchas the ideal body temperature, proteinpercentage of feed, etc.

• Know what the judge looks like and/oris wearing.

• Know what the ringmaster looks likeand/or is wearing.

Preparing the horse for the show ringincludes:• Wash the horse, either the night before

the show or the morning of the show.

• On show day, feed the horse at leasttwo hours before show time, but onlyfeed approximately half of the usualamount. This keeps the horse attentiveand alert.

• On show day, give about half theamount of water usually provided. Thisprevents the horse from having a largegirth and helps keep it active and alert.

• Groom and brush the horse at leasttwice before show time. This brings outthe natural oils as well as removing dustand dirt, resulting in a cleaner hair coat.

• Before leaving for the show ring, givethe horse a drink of water and a finalbrushing.

• Be calm and gentle with the horse whileon the way to the show ring and whilein the show ring.

Working as a team in the show ringincludes:• Be aware of the location of both the

judge and the ringmaster, as well as in-structions they may give.

• Be courteous to the judge, ringmaster,and other exhibitors. Be sure to say“yes sir” or “no sir,” “excuse me,”and “thank you.”

• Know the horse’s location at all times,especially in relation to yourself and tothe judge.

• Follow the guidelines of the quarter system.

• Keep the proper distance (about a horselength) between your horse and theother horses.

• When leading the horse, walk slowly.

• Walk by the left side of the horse’shead, keep your shoulder between thehorse’s head and shoulder.

• When setting up the horse, do itquickly, confidently, and smoothly.

• If the judge touches your horse or ifyour horse rubs against another horse,use the rag to re-smooth the hair and/or to wipe off any dirt.

• Maintain eye contact with the judge.

• Smile, relax, and enjoy what you are doing.

• Keep yourself cool, calm, and collected;this helps to keep the horse under control.

• Be humble when you win and graciouswhen you lose.

• Remember to thank the judge and con-gratulate the winners after the finalplacing.

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Identify the horse parts

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