coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. normally in estuaries 1. longshore drift...

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NamName: Coastal Landscape Exam Questions Year 10 Intervention Coastal processes that shape the coastline Weathering – the break down of rocks (disintegration) in its original location. Weathering weakens the coastline speeding up rates of erosion. There are two types of weathering. 1. Mechanical weathering or freeze thaw weathering. Water enters a crack in a rock, at night time when the temperature drops this water freezes and expands by 9-10% exerting pressure on the side of the rock. This then melts or thaws and the process continues. Eventually the rock will break up. 2. Chemical weathering involves a weak carbonic acid dissolving the outside layer of rock. This usually takes place under warm and wet conditions. Mechanical weathering changes the size of the rock whereas chemical weathering changes the shape and colour. Chemical weathering changes the chemical composition of the rock. Mechanical weathering does not. Erosion – the wearing away of the land by the sea Hydraulic power – water and air is blasted into cracks in cliffs widening these over time and causing parts of the cliff to break off Abrasion – sediment within the water is thrown at the cliff face. This wears down the outer later of rock and has a sandpapering effect. Rock is often left smoother as a result of this. Attrition – does not affect cliffs but rocks themselves. Rocks and pebbles will bang into each other becoming smaller, smoother and rounder. Transportation – long shore drift Sediment is moved along the coastline in a process called long shore drift. Sediment is moved up the beach in the swash, usually at an angle driven by the prevailing winds. Sediment is then carried back down the beach at a right angle under the force of gravity in the backwash. This process continues creating a zig zag pattern that results in sediment being moved from one end of the beach to the other. If groynes are in place this process may be interrupted.

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Page 1: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

NamName:

Coastal Landscape Exam Questions Year 10 Intervention

Coastal processes that shape the coastline

Weathering – the break down of rocks (disintegration) in its original location.

Weathering weakens the coastline speeding up rates of erosion. There are two

types of weathering.

1. Mechanical weathering or freeze thaw weathering. Water enters a crack in

a rock, at night time when the temperature drops this water freezes and

expands by 9-10% exerting pressure on the side of the rock. This then

melts or thaws and the process continues. Eventually the rock will break

up.

2. Chemical weathering involves a weak carbonic acid dissolving the outside

layer of rock. This usually takes place under warm and wet conditions.

Mechanical weathering changes the size of the rock whereas chemical weathering

changes the shape and colour. Chemical weathering changes the chemical

composition of the rock. Mechanical weathering does not.

Erosion – the wearing away of the land by the sea

Hydraulic power – water and air is blasted into cracks in cliffs widening these over time and causing

parts of the cliff to break off

Abrasion – sediment within the water is thrown at the cliff face. This wears down the outer later of

rock and has a sandpapering effect. Rock is often left smoother as a result of this.

Attrition – does not affect cliffs but rocks themselves. Rocks and pebbles will bang into each other

becoming smaller, smoother and rounder.

Transportation – long shore drift

Sediment is moved along the coastline in a process called long shore drift. Sediment is moved up the beach in

the swash, usually at an angle driven by the prevailing winds. Sediment is then carried back down the beach at

a right angle under the force of gravity in the backwash. This process continues creating a zig zag pattern that

results in sediment being moved from one end of the beach to the other. If groynes are in place this process

may be interrupted.

Page 2: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Exam Questions

(i) Outline the process of slumping.

(2) .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ..............................................................................................................................................

(ii) State one impact of slumping on the coast. (1)

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Exam Mark scheme

i) Slumping – a rotational movement of land at the coast (1) triggered by saturation

(1). Allow simple statements about water in cracks and downward movement of

land. Credit explanations at 1 mark

ii) Loss of land (1) Destruction of property (1) loss of animal habitats (1)

Deposition – the dropping of sediment by the sea. This happens when the waves do not have enough

energy to transport sediment. This can happen under the following conditions

Constructive waves – strong swash washed sediment up onto the beach. The weaker backwash can

not drag it back and so the sediment is deposited on the beach.

Next to a groyne – when a wave hits a groyne it loses energy. Long shore drift is prevented and

sediment is deposited next to the groyne where it accumulates.

In an estuary – where a river meets the sea the fast slowing river is forced to slow down as it meets

the sea, at the meeting of the two types of water sediment is deposited.

Near to cliffs that are easily eroded – the more sediment in the sea the more deposition that is

likely to take place as the sea won’t have the energy to transport all of the sediment.

Mass movement – when large amounts of sediment or material move downhill under the force of

gravity (cliff collapse)

Sliding/landslides – a very fast sudden movement. Large amounts of material moves suddenly

downhill at the same time. Happens as a result of erosion at the base of the cliff and weathering on

the surface

Slumping – a curved slower movement. Sediment starts to creep slowly downhill, only a short

distance. Usually happens when cliffs are made of softer material like clay and become saturated

after heavy fall.

Rockfalls – individual pieces of rock move freely away from the cliff. This can happen after freeze

thaw weathering has helped to loosen and dislodge pieces of rock.

Page 3: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Study Figure 1b. It shows erosion rates at four sites (A–D) along a coastline. Each site has a different type of coastal management.

(i) Describe the changes in erosion rate along the coastline shown in Figure 1b. Use erosion rate data (cm/year) in your answer.

(4) .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. Exam Mark Scheme Reserve only one mark for use of data (rates or erosion). Max 3 without (erosional) data. Must mention 3 of the 4 sites for max. Max 2 for just a simple list, without reference to changes along the coast.

Rates of erosion have fallen at A, C and D (1).

But risen at site B (1)

Greater rate of decrease at site C (1)

Smallest decrease at site D (1)

Use of data – data is cm/yr erosion data (1)

(iii) Physical weathering can affect the landforms shown on Figure 1a. Explain the process of physical weathering.

(3) .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ..............................................................................................................................................

Page 4: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

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Freeze thaw – diurnal changes in temperature around 0 degrees (1). Water in crack widened due to freezing (1), 9% volume increase (1) thawing leaves crack prized open – removes water (1), process repeats (1)

Could also refer to animal burrowing/plant action.

Describe the differences between constructive and destructive waves. (4)

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Mark Scheme Maximum of 3 marks for answers which do not use comparative language ‘whereas, however, in comparison’

Constructive waves have a greater swash than backwash whereas destructive waves have a greater backwash than swash (1)

Destructive waves are higher energy waves in comparison to constructive waves which are low in energy (1)

Constructive and destructive

waves

Constructive waves are waves that surge up

the beach with a powerful swash. They carry

large amounts of sediment and ‘construct the

beach’, making it bigger. They deposit

material. They appear less often than

destructive waves

Destructive waves are so named because

they ‘destroy’ the beach. Destructive waves are

closely spaced and often interfere with each

other, creating a chaotic swirling mass of

water. There is little forward motion when a

wave breaks (swash) but a strong powerful

backwash that erodes the beach.

Page 5: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Destructive waves remove sediment from the beach whereas constructive waves build up the beach (1)

Destructive waves break more frequently than constructive waves (1) for example, destructive waves break 13-15 times per minute whereas constructive 5-9 times per minute (1)

Study Figure 1a. It shows a constructive wave.

Using Figure 1a, state one feature of a constructive wave.

(1) ..............................................................................................................................................

State two other features of a constructive wave.

(2)

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Landforms of costal erosion

1. Headlands and bays

Headlands and bays 1. Coastlines are made of alternating bands of soft

rock and hard rock (more resistant and less resistant)

2. Less resistant rock such as clay is eroded more quickly, this retreats back forming a bay

3. More resistant rock such as granite is eroded more slowly. This protrudes (sticks out) forming a headland.

Page 6: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Explain the formation of headlands and bays.

.............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. Mark Scheme Max 3 marks without a process or full sequence. Max 3 without reference to headland and bays.

Differential erosion due to perpendicular geology (reference to hard and soft geology which is perpendicular to the coast).

Harder rock is more resistant therefore forms land which sticks out into the sea (headlands).

Softer rock is eroded (hydraulic action/abrasion/corrosion) at a quicker rate to form a bay. An extension to sequence could refer to development of headlands into stacks/stumps or

beaches within bays

2. Caves, arches, stacks and stumps

Caves, arches, stacks and stumps 1. A weakness in a headland will be eroded until it

becomes wider forming a cave 2. Hydraulic actions and abrasion erode the cave

further until it breaks through to the other side of the headland forming an arch.

3. The roof of the arch is weakened at the base by erosion and on the top by weathering. Eventually this collapses leaving a stack.

4. The stack will be undercut by hydraulic action and abrasion. Eventually this will collapse resulting in a stump.

Page 7: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Explain the formation of a stack.

.............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. Mark Scheme Max 2 without explanation. Max 3 without reference to process. Max 3 without full sequence. For 4 – sequence or named process

Stacks begin as part of an eroding headland. Wave refraction causes waves to attack the side of the headland

Joints are exploited by erosion (named process e.g. hydraulic action, corrasion). Repeated erosion causes a cave, which becomes eroded through to become an arch. Pressure on the arch and force of gravity ultimately cause the collapse of the arch, leaving

a stack.

3. Wave Cut Platforms

Wave cut platforms This is a gentle sloping platform that sticks out from the base of a cliff 1. The sea erodes the cliff face at the high

water mark and the low water mark creating a wave cut notch

2. Hydraulic action and abrasion erode the notch further until it becomes bigger.

3. The top of the cliff above the notch will be unsupported as it is undercut and so eventually collapses

4. This process repeats and eventually the cliff retreats leaving a wave cut platform

5. Abrasion smooth’s this platform over time.

Page 8: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Study Figure 1b. It shows coastal landforms.

Describe the cliff and wave-cut platform. (4 marks) Use evidence from Figure 1b in your answer.

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The cliffs have a wave-cut platform in front of them (1)

Page 9: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Cliff overhangs the wave-cut notch. The cliffs are 30m high (1) The cliffs are vertical (1) Cliff / wave-cut platform made of chalk (1) Debris / rocks / on the wave-cut platform (1) Notch separates cliff from platform (1) The wave cut platform extends 20m from coast (1)

Explain how geology influences the formation of coastal landforms.

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Page 10: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Exam Mark Scheme

Page 11: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Landforms of deposition

Exam question

I) Draw an arrow in the box on Figure 1a to show the direction of long shore drift

iii) Identify landform X on Figure 1a.

Beaches Beaches form as the result of deposition. Constructive waves carry sediment onto the beach that is left behind by the weaker back wash. Beaches also form in bays. The bay is sheltered from the full power of the waves by the headlands. As the wave enters the bay it is slower, has less energy and therefore deposits sediment. The shallower the bay the more friction and so the more deposition.

Spits – form in sheltered areas of the coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the

coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline changes shape or next to a

headland, sediment will be deposited as there is a loss in energy. Here sediment starts to accumulate.

3. Over time this sediment builds up to form a narrow ridge made of sand called a spit

4. If the wind changes direction curved tips will form 5. Salt marsh forms behind the spit. Sediment

collects here from the river, over time grasses will start to grown on it forming a spit.

Page 12: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Describe the formation of a bar. (3 marks)

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Mark scheme List of words with no description max 1. Must describe the link of sediment across the bay to get maximum marks.

Bars form due to longshore drift often at bays (1)

The spit extends across the bay until it reaches the other side (1)

Sediment is moves by the action of swash and backwash (1)

If a spit extends from one side of the bay to the other it will form a bar (1)

A lagoon can form behind the bar once the bar covers the bay (1).

Bars – form across bays 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the

coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline changes shape or next to a

headland, sediment will be deposited as there is a loss in energy. Here sediment starts to accumulate.

3. Over time this sediment builds up to form a narrow ridge made of sand

4. This becomes a bar when the narrow ridge of sand joins two headlands together.

5. A lagoon is created where the bay once was.

Page 13: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

The causes and effects of coastal erosion

Coastal areas provide economic (money/jobs), environmental (nature) and social (e.g. activities) opportunities which is why many people live near the coast. Coastal erosion and the threat of flooding is posing a threat to such communities.

Coastal erosion is the removal of material from the coast by wave action, causing the coastline to retreat (move backwards) inland. This results in loss of land, damage to buildings, roads and railways and can further increase the risk of flooding in the future.

How fast is the coast changing?

Depending on the reason, coastlines recede at varying rates.

Failure of coastal defences leads to the most coastal erosion

Landslides also lead to coastal erosion

Wave and storm damage lead to significant coastal erosion.

Rising sea levels

Sea levels along the English Channel has risen by about 12cm in the past 100 years. Levels are expected to rise by another 11-16cm by 2030 due to global warming. A warmer climate causes seawater to expand and causes the ice sheets and glaciers to melt, leading to increased sea levels as a result. The effects are as follows:

Cliffs that are currently being undercut and collasing will continue to retreat, the position of the wave cut notch and the level of the wave cut platform may change.

Areas of soft coastline (clay and gravel) may experience more erosion and retreat due to more frequent and stronger storm surges.

Storms and storm surges

A storm surge is a large scale increase in sea level due to gale force winds driving water towards the coastline. They can last hours to days and span hundreds of kilometres and cause significant damage and loss of life.

In 2013, the North Sea (to the east of England) experienced an enormous storm surge due to a storm. Due to the coastal defences and early warnings, flood related deaths and major damage was avoided. However, in January and February 2014, the jet stream (fast flowing currents of air) resulted in a depressions (low pressure system – rising air, cooling, condensing, forming convectional rainfall) leading to high winds and widespread damage.

Human causes of coastal erosion and their impacts

Human activities such as farming, urban and industrial development affect coastal processes and thus landscapes.

Causes

Strictures like groynes are built to trap sand, however, removing sediment from the system results in increased erosion along the coast

Dredging (removing material from the coastline) to build up other areas leaves the

Page 14: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

coastline vulnerable to erosion as the material would have acted as a barrier.

If cliffs are protected from erosion, the supply of sediment that would have resulted from the natural erosion of the sea cliffs leads to a loss of sediment further up the coastline resulting in more erosion elsewhere.

Impacts

Settlements – over 20 million people in the UK live on the coast. In a place called Holderness, over 29 villages have been lost due to erosion in the last 1000 years.

Tourism – plays a major part in local economies for example jobs.

Infrastructure – roads, railways, oil refineries and ferry and shipping ports are located along the coast.

Agriculture – sea level rise and increase coastal erosion are leading to the loss of farmland.

An example of a section of coastline in the UK to identify its major landforms of

erosion and deposition.

Holderness is in east England in the country of Yorkshire. The Holderness coastline is 61km is length. To the north is Famborough Head made out of hard chalk. The coastline to the south of this headland is made from soft boulder clay. The coastline ends at the Humber Estuary,

Flamborough Head – landform of erosion Flamborough Head is made from more resistant hard rock (chalk) that is being eroded more slowly than the softer boulder clay surrounding it. As a result, it protrudes out forming the headlands.

Spurn Head – landform of deposition Spurn head is a coastal spit growing out across the Humber Estuary. Large amounts of sediment are transported south via longshore drift. As the coastline changes shape the sediment is deposited into the estuary in the shallower waters forming a spit.

Page 15: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Using examples, explain how coastal recession affects the human environment.

(6)

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Exam Mark Scheme

Page 16: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Explain the factors which affect the rate of coastal recession. (4)

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Could refer to coastal management (lack of it), geology or fetch. Affects can be an increase or a decrease in rate of erosion.

Coastal Management. A sea wall would provide a barrier to the waves (1) which absorbs wave energy (1) leading to a reduction in the rate of coastal erosion (1)

Increased fetch would lead to waves with greater energy (1) which would therefore be more destructive (1) causing more erosion.

More resistant geology such as Chalk /limestone/ igneous rock (1) can withstand greater impact from waves (1) therefore would erode less quickly

Page 17: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Coastal management

Hard engineering – man made structures, very expensive that help to hold back the sea

and protect the coastline

Strategy Benefits Costs (bad)

Groynes – stone

or wooden

structure that

sticks out at a 90

degree angle to the

beach

Stops longshore drift, sediment

is deposited next to groynes.

Helps to build a bigger beach

which provides a buffer to a sea

and protects the coastline

behind. Builds a bigger beach

which is popular with tourists.

Sediment is deposited next to

the groyne so cannot be carried

further down the coastline. This

can accelerate (speed up) the

rate of erosion further south of

the groyne.

Wood rots and so they need

replacing often.

Sea wall – a high

wall usually made

out of stone.

Sometimes curved

in shape.

Protects the coastline from the

sea as it is tall and made of

concrete so cannot be eroded

The sea wall can provide a

promenade (walkway) for

tourists

Very expensive costing millions

of pounds.

The sea can bounce back off the

sea wall with great force eroding

the beach in front

Can look obtrusive (ugly)

Rock armour –

large boulders

placed in front of a

cliff

Provide a buffer to the sea. The

rocks absorb the power of the

waves protecting the land

behind

Can provide a spot for fishing

Look very obtrusive (ugly)

Rock are often imported which is

very expensive

Gabions – metal

cages filled with

rocks that are piled

on top of each

other

Provide a buffer to the sea. The

rocks absorb the power of the

waves protecting the land

behind

Overtime vegetation may grow

on the gabions making them

look more natural.

Metal cages can rust easily which

could become dangerous. Looks

obtrusive and out of place

Page 18: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Soft engineering – working with the natural environment to provide a barrier to the sea. Less obtrusive and less expensive. Often better for wildlife and more sustainable.

Strategy Benefits Costs (bad)

Beach nourishment

and reprofilling –

sand or shingle is

dredged from

offshore and placed

onto the beach

Looks natural

Builds a bigger beach that is

popular with tourists

Relatively cheap

Larger beach provides a natural

buffer to the sea, absorbing the

power of the waves and

protecting the land behind

Sediment is easily eroded so

needs to be replaced regularly

which overtime can become

costly.

Does not provide a solid barrier

to the sea. Flooding is still

possible.

Will need to be used alongside

hard engineering to fully protect

the coastline.

Dune regeneration

– new sand dunes

are created by

planting marram

grass to help

stabilise the sand

and build bigger

dunes

New habitats are created

These are a popular feature

with walkers and nature

enthusiasts

The high sand dunes provide a

natural barrier to the sea

helping to protect the land

behind

Humans can trample of the sand

dunes so they will need

maintenance.

Large storms could destroy the

dunes.

Describe the advantages of the hard engineering. (3 marks) .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................................. ............................................................................................................................................. Mark Scheme Point marked Types of engineering e.g. rock groynes, gabions, sea wall.

Hard engineering is stronger (1) and more durable (1). The rock groynes help build beaches (1) which absorb the energy of the waves (1). They are cost effective in the long term (1).

Page 19: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Soft engineering is a way of managing the coastline. Outline the advantages and disadvantages of soft engineering techniques.

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Mark Scheme

Credit explanations at one mark. Max 3 with reference to only advantages or disadvantages

Advantages – cheaper than hard engineering (1). More sustainable to environment (1), and does not require quarrying of rock (1). Less visually obtrusive (1). Doesn't require as much maintenance.

Disadvantages – less effective than hard engineering (1) as it does not always stop erosion from occurring (1), cost of maintenance could be high in the long term (1) with repeated outlays due to annual upkeep (1)

Holderness Coastline: example of a coastal management scheme in the UK to show:

1. The reasons for management

2. The management strategy

3. The resulting effects and conflicts

In 1991 a £2 Million rock groyne was built to protect the village of Mappleton along the Holderness

coastline. This was built to protect the village as well as the B1242 coastal road, an important main road.

The cliffs are made of soft boulder clay. When not protected the average rate of erosion is 2m per year.

The groyne helped to trap sediment in front of Mappleton, building a bigger beach and slowing the rate of

erosion. Unfortunately, this accelerated the rate of erosion further south as sediment was no longer

being replenished.

Conflicts - further south

Colin and Josie of cliff house farm lost their business. Their farm became dangerously close to the sea.

They tried to sue the council and blamed the rock groyne at Mappleton for the accelerated rate of

erosion.

Grange farm and Cowden farm have been completely lost to the sea

House prices have decreased further south as the rate of erosion has increased

Page 20: Coastal processes that shape the coastline · coastline. Normally in estuaries 1. Longshore drift carries sediment along the coastline driven by the prevailing wind. 2. As the coastline

Explain the management techniques used to protect a named area of coastline.

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Named area of coastline ............................................................

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