coast&kayak magazine summer 2011

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Formerly Wavelength Magazine, Coast&Kayak celebrates it's 20th anniversary with a free kayak in every issue -- complete plans AND materials inside. We kid you not!

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COAST&KAYAK MagazineThe magazine of adventure and recreation on the waterVolume 21, Issue 2

WaveLength

Summer 2011

FREE at select outlets and online or by subscription

Celebrating the Gulf IslandsNew marine trail puts serene archipelago in the spotlight

Free kayak insidePM 41687515

Complete plans AND materials inside every issue. Really!

Or win one instead

You can win this kevlar Atlantis Titan VI. Details inside and online.Theres more online in our multimedia edition: www.coastandkayak.com

WEEKLY AND SPECIAL EVENTS THIS SUMMER Every Wednesday, Women on WaterCome join in fun and test your skills

May 15, 2011, Tour De Indian Arm Kayak and SUP Race June 25, 2011, Stand Up Paddle Board Demo DayCheck out what the new boards have to offer 352 Lynn Ave, North Vancouver 5min from 2nd Narrows Bridge

Women only evening paddle with discounted rentals

Deep Cove Outdoors is now located at:

Deep Cove Canoe & Kayakdeepcovekayak.com / 604.929.2268Rentals Lessons Programs Courses EventsSUMMER 2011 2 COAST&KAYAK MAgAzine

Contents

This issues features:6

48 6

CottonwoodsandcanyonsAjourneydowntheUpperMissouri TouringthenewGulfIslandstrail

12 Islandsofserenity

16 Legone:SaanichandSidney 20 Legtwo:TheSouthIslands 24 Legthree:Saltspring 28 Legfour:TheNorthIslands 40 Buildafauxcedarkayak Materialsandplansincluded!

Regular items:30 34 ToursandServices 38 Gearandkayaks 48 Skillset by Alex Matthews 40 50 StartingOut with Gary Doran 51 Instruction/Education 52 FishingAnglesby Dan Armitage

44 Howcloseistooclose? Settingseabirdviewingguidelines

SUMMER 2011

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3

The First Word

by John Kimantas

HowstuffcanreallydragusdownSummer 2011 Editor John Kimantas Advertising Sales Brent Daniel Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart Volume 21, Number 2 PM No. 41687515

Cover Photo: Fiddlers Cove on Saltspring Island presents some great examples of fretted sandstone. Its on the new Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network, with special coverage beginning this issue starting page 12.

CoASt&kAyAk mAGAZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, paddling clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web. Also available by paid subscription. Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome. Find back issues, articles, events, writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayak.com

$20 for 1 year 4 issues $35 for 2 years 8 issuesWhile Coast&Kayak Magazine is made available free, subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue. To subscribe, visit www.coastandkayak.com/Subscribe.html or call 1-866-984-6437.

subscribe

Advertising rates and submission guidelines available at www.coastandkayak.com

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Fall2011 July4 Aug.1 Winter2011 Sept.30 Nov.1 Spring2012 Jan.30 March1 Summer2012 April6 May14A product of:

Wild Coast PublishingPO Box 24, Stn A Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5K4 Ph: 1-866-984-6437 Fax: 1-866-654-1937 Email: kayak@coastandkayak.com Website: www.coastandkayak.com 2010. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose, except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing. Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some elements that may appear on Coast&Kayak maps. Coast&Kayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible. Safety and travel information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge. A safety course and proper equipment are advised before any exploration on water. See a list of paddling instruction locations at www.coastandkayak.com

I went through a change in situation about 15 years ago (personal, professional and financial which is just about everything) and rather than lament I decided to look at it as an opportunity. I drew up a list of what I thought was important to use as a guide for re-establishing my new life. After some consideration the list ended with just three things on it (not in any particular order): my health, the people I love and Vancouver Island. Perhaps oddly, neither my career (journalism) nor money were on the list. I decided that the things I valued most didnt particularly need sums of money. Just the opportunity, which ironically can get lost in the pursuit of stuff (as had happened before). Just this spring I decided to re-evaluate my list. It still holds true, though I look at things a bit more broadly now. Health is still a top priority, as so much of what I love requires the ability to move freely. I have a lot to pack into the next four decades or so, so I have to be in good running order to make the most of it. Vancouver Island is still on the list as well. I still wouldnt want to live anywhere else, but my scope of world influence is a bit more prevalent now. So theres a fourth item on my list: world travel. Vancouver Island is still dear to me, though, and I reflect that by being an advocate for preserving what should be preserved; for instance, fighting invasive economic exploitation that threatens the islands very nature. You can even include all the British Columbia coast in that point. My viewpoint: enjoy it naturally, plus fight to ensure others in future generations will be able to do the same. Back on my list is my career, which is now this magazine and my writing. Ive decided that I am my work, my work is me. They say do what you love and the money will come. Well, I say do what you love, period. Dont let money stand in the way. Imagine a world where the great artist and writers decided they couldnt create because they had to pay rent. What a tragedy that would be. A newly re-emphasized element on my list is minimalism, almost lost amid a cycle of settling down. I am finding the less clutter in life, the more freedom to do things that I truly value. I wonder how many people will go out of this world thinking, if only my lawn had been a bit greener or if I had only worked late more nights at the office. More likely it will be, Why didnt I write that book? or Why did I never take that trip to Venice? What will you find youve missed if the time came today? Best to answer the question now, when you can do something about it. You wont get the chance later! Me, Im working on one new concept that better melds all the aspects I value in life: a virtual office for Coast&Kayak Magazine so we can operate free of physical clutter from anywhere. Its tougher than it sounds few businesses have more clutter than the publishing industry but well get there. Id love to have you drop by the office to discuss it, but, well, we may be a bit hard to find. You might want to check out the beach. I just might be working from there today. - John Kimantas

It was a cold spring for us here on Vancouver Island... Kayaking photos to follow in this space once we thaw out.

4

COAST&KAYAK MAgAzine

SUMMER 2011 SUMMER 2011

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SUMMER 2011

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5

Destinations

by Michel Tremblay / photos by Jim Romo

CottonwoodsthE fAmIlIAr flAt PrAIrIE slides by hour after hour as I drive until the vegetation speaks of a hotter, drier place. Sage brush dots the rangeland more profusely, its bluish- green hue a testimony to the areas aridity. Eventually the Bear Paw Mountains appear, perched on the end of the earth far to the south, their peaks brushing the clouds. The town of Havre appears over a rise in the sandstone studded hills a mix of old west holdouts and sterile modern franchises of aluminium and glass. I drive down to Coal Banks Landing, a United States Forest Service campsite and boat launch, and a popular access point to the White Cliffs section of the Upper Missouri River. My fellow paddlers have already arrived and are organizing their gear. Behind them the Missouri River has worn a gouge into the landscape. Jim Romo, an ecology professor, was my supervisor when I was in graduate school, and is now an old friend. Uncompromising in thought and action, he is a plain speaking product of the northern prairies. His face is lined from a lifetime of being outdoors. Dave is a long-time friend of Jims, and works for the Bureau of Land Management in Idaho. Fiftyish and lean of frame, he shakes my hand with a healthy grip, and sizes me up with a narrowed gaze. Daves lanky 17-year-old son Alex looks on, uneasy about a strange adult being thrown into the mix. The grey dawn brightens the edge of the horizon as I stir from a mild and restless sleep on hard ground thats unwelcome for my middle-aged hip. The low clouds march across the sky, herded by a strong northwest wind. We linger over breakfast, hoping that somehow procrastination will change the weather. We marshal the gear, which amounts to a surprising heap, considering the efforts made to pare down to the necessities. The vessels set off, Jim pensive and unsure in the unfamiliar kayak. By the end of the day, he has 6 COAST&KAYAK MAgAzine SUMMER 2011

MontanaBackground: A panoramic view of the upper Missouri River. Below: A climb to the Hole in the Wall in the White Cliffs section of the Upper Missouri.

& canyonsit mastered, and paddles effortlessly down the Mis